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    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build
    Just started a 40" model of a 41'6" seaplane tender. I have been wanting to do one for years and now that my 36" 100 series 64ft HSL is done I was getting itchy fingers. Started with drawings from the 1976 Model Boats mag (part of the series on ASRs they did back then) which show frame shapes and positions, and enlarged them to 40" (A-O paper after rearranging the images on the A4 primary enlargement used as printing 'pattern' to enable max size on A-O. ) I did the same with the HSL and with a bit of fiddling got all the
    frames
    to line up nicely to shape. You have to be a bit inventive building this way regarding framing material etc, but it's possible if you have previous building experience. I found with these particular drawings that the
    frames
    were not drawn with identical profiles (left and right sides) so I had to create 1 side and flip it for the opposite side. I also had to create an extra frame between 2+3 as there was no real support for the stringers without it. The front top deck frame is cut from 3mm ply, as are the
    frames
    ,-(ply is from packaging of a big Toyota Landcruiser axle recall which was done during my time at Toyota, which is 3 ply, very light, and perfect for this type of job, and not to mention, free!) I borrowed this frame method from the old 60s Vic Smeed MTB plan and it makes a good strong bow section to work with (used it on the HSL also.) Ply longerons are run through from transom to F2 with hardwood stiffening between transom and F4. Chine, gunwale and mid stringers are 4mmx2mm Beech, bottom stringers are 3x3 beech with mid stringer doubled. I may have to put extra stringers in the sides but that will depend on how the planks lie in the flares. planking will be 1.5mm balsa as the flares are quite pronounced especially in the bow area, and you just can't get sheets to go round the compound curves. Hull will be glassed and faired when finished and sealed with thin resin inside once everything is ready. Cabin is reasonably easy but takes a bit of working out and fiddling with due to lack of any plan, but it seems to be working out reasonably with the use of photos etc. The model is going to be a representation of a tender which was imported privately in the 50s by a doctor in the Milford sounds area here in the South Island of NZ, to enable him to visit patients, due to there being water access only in many of the remote areas. I have modified the drawings to represent this boat, which included changing the mast and removing the rear oval port and replacing it with a small round port, (not sure why this was changed, maybe an interior modification made the large port unnecessary ?) The boat ended up in Auckland at some stage and was owned by a family not far from my place for a number of years (pic is on the hard at our local yacht club in the 70s, - colour pic is from a friends super 8 movie taken from his boat, on an outing together with Jaguars owner 60s/70s). It is now apparently back in the South Island being restored. The model will use brushed 540 motors with twin ESCs etc but still a way off yet. I have to work out a way to make the cabin removable either with or without the rear cockpit, but more likely it will be a 2 piece job. It's a bit of a make it up as you go project. Model Boats
    frames
    boat sheets Landcruiser motors ESCs πŸ‘ Like πŸ’¬ Comment πŸ—£οΈ Share 5
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    Offshore Crane Vessel Bokalift 1, Build by Dutch sailing group Mail-line
    Hello As a member of the Dutch modelling group Mailline I will start this topic on the construction of the offshore crane ship BokaLift 1 in the coming period (total construction time probably 3/4 years) through many photos on this forum. In 2005, Mailline members purchased a model of a tanker from about 385 cm long as a large towing object. However, there was a desire to make the tanker a more functional model and so the tanker was converted in 1 winter time into an offshore crane vessel called MailLine Lifter. The crane was fully functional including a special ballast-, and anchor system. However, in September 2015 the trailer, including the model of the Mailine Lifter, was stolen from the storage location, and so far never found again. The lack of the Mail-Line Lifter caused a great demotivation among the members and it took until 2018 before we had the motivation again to start a new group project. In 2017, the Dutch shipping company Boskalis converted their semisubmersible heavy transport vessel Finesse into a large offshore crane vessel named BokaLift 1 A 3000-tonne Huisman crane was placed on the deck during the conversion. Partly because many members already had tugs from shipping company Smit, the decision was made to build a model of the BokaLift 1. (scale 1/50) During a construction meeting in spring 2018, the members decided to build the model in modules so that everyone can make their own part at home in their own workshop. The dimensions of the model are 438x86 cm with a maximum height of 270 cm The water displacement will be approximately 580 kg The construction of the model is therefore divided into the following parts: Hull Propulsion Crane / Boom Crane technology Stabilization system Accommodation Helideck / construction Boomrest Deckwinches Rescue parts (liferaft / boats) Deck detail Electro / electronics / RC Anchor system I started building the hull in September 2018 and the hull is built in 2 parts. The hull was drawn with a 3D drawing program (Delfship) and then in SolidWorks futher adjusted to a body plan to create the largest possible usable space for all components. The
    frames
    are laser cut from 10mm poplar plywood Then glued together and covered with 3 mm thick pinewood slats in different widths I hope the many pictures say more than my limited English writing
    13 days ago by maersk-topper
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Hi Nerys . agree with Martin - its a bit complicated because its a very different hull with two chines top & bottom. Once thought through it should be a doddle from there .In a way the normal multi chine hull would be easier. Once DG really gets going you will see how uncomplicated they are as properly designed they are self aligning Hi Martin looking at the back can see the problem - it might be simpler to include the both chines on the cross members of the box as it appears to be a flat bottomed hull. The box then runs vertically from the bottom to the deck - so forming the hull bottom and sides itself . Small side
    frames
    can be utilised where needed inside the box to cope with the hull shape. Dodgys worried about the amount of balsa - so that should help. The 3 keel idea at the bow with cross members should do the trick and those together with the vertical
    frames
    throughout can locate the deck.
    15 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Martin, tables of offsets are rather like a land surveyor writes down. Because a boat is generally a curved shape in every direction (even more so than some aircraft shapes) it is necessary to divide it up into regular sections and then measure those at equally regular spacings from a datum. That way you get a frame shape which is effectively the shape of the boat in cross section at every regular spacing. 1 or 2 feet from the stem head, all the way back. As long as the boat is set up level, you can take measurements from a fixed datum (say the centre line through the length of the boat or a wall that is parallel to the keel) to any major point such as the deck edge and chines. You need a vertical measurement too which would usually be the floor. Where these measurements cross is where the dot goes. Eventually, for each section, you join the dots, so to speak and you get a shape, per section. On the Thames Slipper launch, Freebody's boatbuilder, who had worked at Andrews (where slippers originated) lent me the original table of offsets, from which I was able to make
    frames
    . Despite the svelte look of a slipper they are actually all straight lined sections/
    frames
    , except frame 1 because you can't twist the plywood quite that tightly so there has to be a slight curve in that frame. Also frame 2 is 1 1/4" out on the starb'd side! and every boat they build has an extra bit of oak added! As indeed I had to on the model. When I asked the Freebody kids who now run the firm since kindly peter died if I could borrow them again they abruptly refused, proving the son is so very often not what the father would have hoped. Martin
    21 days ago by Westquay
    Blog
    sea princess ie a small commander
    built this my first attempt at a total build cutting all
    frames
    and planking the deck its only 23" long
    3 months ago by jacko
    Forum
    water is wet and so was I.
    Hello Martin Thank you for that, I’m not sure yet, I may end up using the
    frames
    supplied with the model although they are very thick. Not sure either how to tackle the windscreen surround.
    2 months ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    Aerokits Plans
    Rookysailor wrote .....Your quite correct there Doug, this blog has been here months ago, and there were lots of moans about the plans being wrong, I never had problem with them, but have been building years😌 I think Don will be pleased as I have just been on his website, and he has the plans for both the Sea Nymph and the Sea Urchin, which Don said he was after.😐 I also found his plans were fine , they photo copies of the original, the problem was the hand drawn
    frames
    which he said were accurately drawn , they were abysmal , Stevie Wonder could have done a better job , but as the Urchin is so small I have ordered a set of plans from him and will loft my own
    frames
    from the plan and side views
    2 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Re: water is wet and so was I.
    Hi, I have just been looking at these photos again admiring the woodwork. Excellent job. How do you plan on doing the chrome window
    frames
    .? Perhaps I should wait and see. Martin.
    2 months ago by Martin555
    Blog
    40'' Seaplane Tender, new build C
    Hull planking and fairing finished, but had to drop the up-sweep of the chine at the bow by about 1/4" (using filler) as the 1+2
    frames
    chine positions shown in the drawing were too high. The bottom faces of the 1+2
    frames
    need re shaping to bring the chine down to the correct progressive curve. Bit late now but is looking ok, apart from a slight hump at frame 2. Once glassed I'll work it a bit more. Always hard to see what the hull shape will be till you cover it.
    frames
    πŸ‘ Like πŸ’¬ Comment πŸ—£οΈ Share 1
    2 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.
    Hi Guys, I have been asked about a build log for HMS Cottesmore. Well this is a first for me as I have not done this before, so if I get things wrong please tell me. I worked in a shipyard for 25 years and it was there that I first saw an MCMV being built. There was something about her that made me say to myself " one day I will make a model of her. Some years later I managed to get hold of some plans and attempted to make the hull without much success, so the idea was put on hold. About 3 years ago I was looking on the web I discovered a fibreglass hull at 1/48 scale, that then started me of again. So I purchased the Hull and running gear from Fleetscale and made a start. The first job was to install the bow thruster using two part epoxy. Then laminated some strips of plastic card for the bilge keels,shaped them and attached them with some small self tapping screws and epoxy glue. Then the two prop shafts and A
    frames
    .
    4 months ago by Martin555
    Blog
    Constellation
    Made the framed glass portion of the skylight. They're hinged so I can get a finger inside to flip the power switch on or off. They're made from clear plastic from some packaging, basswood, and brass wire.
    1 year ago by Jerry Todd
    Response
    Re: Hull
    The
    frames
    are of 4mm ply ,I use this because I can get lots of scrap off cuts from the place I used to work before I retired, I go in once a month for what my wife calls "my red cross parcel".πŸ˜‚
    4 months ago by marky
    Blog
    RAF Crash Tender (46”) by Vintage Model Works
    Well here we go... I have made a start on this great kit by VMW. This all started about 15 months ago, when I saw a completed model at Alexandra Palace model engineering exhibition. I talked with the builder/ owner, Rob, who has extensively posted on here his build blog ( and very useful reading it has been!) So eventually I got round to buying a kit last autumn ( other boats being built) and... went to the model engineering exhibition this year, and talked with... Rob, who said I β€œ should get on with it...” So I have. There are a few other members of this great website who have built/are building this model and I have read several blogs & looked at pictures which are a fantastic resource, but a bit worrying as I’m not sure my modelling skills are as good πŸ˜‰. I don’t know what new ideas to show, but I will try keep a regular update of progress on the boat. Having made a sturdy building board, it seems sensible to work from the bows backwards, as once the bow structure is glued accurately everything else should follow. Having dry fitted all the
    frames
    to the keel and measured for alignment, I was nervous that a mm out anywhere could accumulate errors, so I decided to steam and bend the gunwhale stringers and dry fit them as well. This will help prove all the
    frames
    correct height port & starboard before I commit to glueing. It looks OK eyeballing it but I’m also constructing some right angle brackets to clamp the
    frames
    to while the glue sets. Just in case! I’ll be working on the boat most days, but That won’t always be reflected in much progress in pictures! And unlike previous blogs I’ve done, where the boat has been nearly finished before writing anything,this one is going to be β€˜realtime’.
    5 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    Fitting of Sponstons and bulwarks
    After cutting the hull free from the former using the prepared slots sanded the top of the
    frames
    , etc . I made up two sponsons for the paddle and secured them to the side of the hull using blocks and brackets. My attention then turned to fitting the bulwarks. Using strips of lime I bent one piece round a former to form the stern. It was softened using hot water. Clamped to former and allowed to dry. This was then glued and pinned to the hull. Note:- When planking I allowed for a space below deck level to allow the bulwarks to secured to the deck edge. The foredeck bulwarks were easier due to the curves of hull. I coated the interior of the hull with isopon epoxy resin to waterproof the interior and to strengthen the hull.
    5 months ago by Hillro
    Blog
    Preparing the
    frames
    for the hull
    The drawings came with the hull profiles to scale so I photocopied them enough times to when cut out gave a template for each one. I decided to build the hull upside down so I marked out the templates to allow for this and to allow the
    frames
    to be cut when the hull is complete. The
    frames
    were made from 4mm Birch Plywood. Templates glued to the plywood and cut out using a scroll saw.The interiors of the frame were also cut out where there was sufficient material to allow a 10mm web. A 50x75mm batten was marked out from the drawing for the frame positions.
    frames
    had blocks glued to them to allow the fixing of them to the batten. The keel was also cut out from 4mm plywood and glued to the
    frames
    .
    5 months ago by Hillro
    Blog
    Enclosing the controls.
    The original boat had a wide and deep seat at the back of the well deck and this is an ideal place to conceal the fuse, ESC and receiver. I started by setting out the components and marking an area sufficiently big enough to accommodate them all with room for the associated wiring and plumbing (water cooling for the ESC). A framework of obeche strip was formed on the floor and sides in such a way that the top and front panels of the cover would be flush with the frame, the side
    frames
    were also built out so that the cover would be narrow enough to clear the coamings on the sides of the well deck. The rear panels and floor of the enclosure are 1.5mm obeche panels, the rear one with cut-outs for the wiring to come through, both were given a coat of Teak stain before being glued in place. The cover β€˜seat’ was made from a framework of obeche strip and panels with bracing pieces at each end to add rigidity and it fits neatly into the frame, some finishing detail was also added to this. This was also given a first coat of Teak stain. The cover will be held in place with small neodymium magnets.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Paddle Tug Iona - the hull
    So... here is a compressed build blog of my paddle tug Iona... and I'm playing catch-up as the vessel is 95% complete and has been sailed already, but there may be some interest in what I've done. Iona was scratch-built off plan and has turned out to be the cheapest build so far out of 3 I've made, mainly because I was able to source materials from the leftovers box! it's a 'mixed-media' boat 😜using traditional methods of plank on frame hull, with paddles made on my 3D printer, and other parts turned on the lathe. So starting with the hull,
    frames
    were drawn out, transferred to some scrap 9mm ply and cut out on my bandsaw, along with the keel. These were assembled on a build board with some right angle brackets / measuring tools and test fitted before being stuck in place with epoxy. This was quite difficult as the shape of the hull is critical and comes right at the start of the build. I did remake 1 frame to correct alignment. The deck stringers need to bend in 2 directions, so some steaming with a carpet steam cleaner attached to some tubes worked and the wood clamped in place to dry. Outboard sponsons (?) were fitted to make a frame for the paddle boxes to fit on. Then a large sheet of ply forms the bottom of the hull, and the only job left to complete was the (tedious) planking. This was my 1st plank on frame ship... and it took ages. I think it came out reasonably OK but I'm not a perfectionist and I know if I'd spent more time it could be better... but I didn't! Next blog will feature building the paddle boxes and superstructure.πŸ€“
    6 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    PS Iona - ballast
    Well I said in blog 1 this was a mixed media ship... I forgot to mention the concrete. The bathtub test showed that the ship sailed ON the water rather than in it, so some serious ballast weight needed to be added. As I don't have any spare lead, and buying the amount needed would be expensive, I discovered an old bag of cement in the shed. Excellent! I roughly calculated how much to use to infill the base of the tug - about 1 inch depth distributed bows to stern, up to the level of the
    frames
    , so I could fit a wooden floor to mount the motors / electronics onto. Luckily this came out about right, and the paddles would sit in the water correctlyπŸ€“
    6 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Response
    frames
    glued up & water test.
    Very nice -
    6 months ago by Puddle-pirate
    Blog
    frames
    glued up & water test.
    Just a couple more photos of the fishing boat & sealed hull with gorilla wood glue then a coat of 2 part finishing epoxy in the inside . The boat is small enough to float in the kitchen sink
    6 months ago by GARTH
    Blog
    Keel
    Printed out the
    frames
    /ribs drawings and outlined each in orange so I could easily see the correct lines. Cut those out and pasted to some plywood. The plywood is Baltic Birch 1/4" -5 ply, very nice quality that I get from a local woodworking supply store. it's a bit nicer than from the local warehouse hardware lumber yard, but that would work also. Used some spray rubber cement, sprayed only the paper back and stuck on the plywood. Spraying just one surface allows quick removal of the paper once cut. I don't have a bandsaw of scroll saw, so I use a sabresaw/hand jigsaw mounted upside down on a surface that secures to my drill press. Works pretty good. My shop is so tiny that I just don't have a space for larger tools. Maybe someday. Keel board was glued up, will show more tomorrow on that. Joe
    7 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I have the hull. I have the fittings from battlecraft and excellent they are too. I also have 4 brass props plus the A
    frames
    . All i need is the time a space to start this build. First i need a larger shed. Too much work and no play! makes Jack a dull boy😊
    7 months ago by andyhynes
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Sakibian, My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work. For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead
    frames
    you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin. The
    frames
    you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your
    frames
    . I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts. One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.
    7 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi Sakibian, The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats. My Fairmile D was made from plywood
    frames
    , pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions. I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
    7 months ago by reilly4
    Blog
    Decks & hatches.
    Because I need access to the wiring at both ends of the boat I formed the framework of an opening at the bow to make the dummy hatch into a real hatch. In a similar way a hatch was formed in the rear deck which will give me access to the wiring, rudder servo and the ESC cooling. It’s going to be quite tight to get all that into the cavity under the rear deck but I’ve done a test fit and it will all go in but will involve some β€˜keyhole surgery’ through the rear hatch opening when I get to the stage of installing all of the running gearβ€¦πŸ€“. Both of these decks were glued and pinned in place and some packing tape used to pull the decks firmly onto the
    frames
    . The side decks were also trimmed for best fit and secured in the same way and when all was dry and set a small hand plane was used to trim them flush to the hull sides. The next stage will be to fit the balsawood blocks at the bow and shape them to the hull…..it’s the tricky bit I’ve not been looking forward toβ€¦πŸ˜Ÿ
    8 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Merry Christmas and a Happy New year.
    Hi sea queen
    frames
    and Aerokit plans Biro pens and popular ply aside A Very merry Xmas to you Forgive me it is the wine too much of Cheers Ian T
    8 months ago by TOWN3810
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    "I wish I had never said anything or about Biro pretend deck planking Cheers Ian T" You weren't to know he was selling such crap! Are you sure it's the same guy you got yours from? I can't believe he was supplying first class drawings years ago and is now supplying rubbish. Why bother drawing (well trying to) around the
    frames
    etc. when you already have good drawings?
    8 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Hi I was lucky enough to be given a set of Sea Queen plans by a member on this forum but of course the plans dont show the
    frames
    and they need to be drawn up from the lines on the side and plan views . Its not that I cant do it but it seems silly re inventing the wheel if someone has already done it . So if any one has drawings of the
    frames
    for the Aerokits Sea Queen 46" I would be very grateful for a copy Cheers Don
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Whatever floats your boat Don πŸ˜‰ Merry Christmas, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Town3810 wrote I wish I had never said anything or about Biro pretend deck planking Cheers Ian T I'm lucky in as much as I have a laser cutter so by turning the power down I can burn the lines into the deck then turn it up to cut the deck outline
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    RNinMunich wrote Hi Chris, If 'HE' "is blatantly copying the original kit drawings with Aerokits on them rather than redrawing them" why are they such 'freehand' rubbish? Surely the 'original kit drawings' were not! No, you misunderstand , the original drawings are great, but aerokits never included
    frames
    with their plans as the
    frames
    were pre cut in the kit "HE" blatantly copies the Aerokit plan then hand draws the
    frames
    which are Crap. The side and plan view are excellent copies , but his selling point is he is the only person who includes the
    frames
    with his plans which he says are drawn to a high standard. in fact he says just put the frame drawings on the wood and cut out . That would be fine if you want a twisted boat . You cant make a straight boat when the two sides of a frame are not mirror images of each other Don
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    I wish I had never said anything or about Biro pretend deck planking Cheers Ian T
    8 months ago by TOWN3810
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Hi Chris, If 'HE' "is blatantly copying the original kit drawings with Aerokits on them rather than redrawing them" why are they such 'freehand' rubbish? Surely the 'original kit drawings' were not! Interesting (and probably never endingπŸ€”) debate. Cheers all and Garry Chrimbo, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Yes, copyright is a real hornet's nest. I remember reading an article in Building magazine many years ago on the subject of copyright where one large housebuilder tried to take another to court because it had copied one of its designs. But because the defendant had slightly altered the design it got away with it. So for example if I put my Swordsman drawings on Ebay, which were based on the kit drawings, I shouldn't have any problem as I have made a number of alterations. I won't be of course as I've only drawn enough for me to build my model, they are not full working drawings and I'm not interested in doing that. Where that guy on Ebay is at fault is that he is blatantly copying the original kit drawings with Aerokits on them rather than redrawing them - not that he has the wherewithal!
    8 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    " I'm in no way condoning what that guy on Ebay is doing but the problem with the copyright owner is that they are not making drawings available for all of the boats that they produced hence why the likes of that guy on Ebay are able to keep on selling albeit illegally." I'm not suggesting that you are condoning what they are doing - I'm just saying that complaining to Ebay won't help at all - giving the seller bad feedback will help a little. There is a problem with old boat plans and copyright. The US and the EU together - under corporate lobbying - brought in a rule that copyright exists for a very long time, which was totally against the aim of the original copyright legislation. This creates the problem of 'copyright orphans'. Old model boat plans suffer a lot from this - they were often created by a small company which eventually closed down without passing copyright ownership on. Under EU legislation the copyright still exists, but is probably owned by relatives of the original holder - who won't know anything about it. Worse - ownership will be spread around the relatives - at a worst case there may be 50 or more of them. The EU says that you should make best efforts to trace them and obtain permission. Good luck with that! And if you were to trace them all, almost certainly one would consider that a nice little earner had fallen into their lap, engage a lawyer and ask for a stiff fee.... I run a web site aimed at gathering these old plans, addressing copyright issues and publishing them for free, so as to save them from oblivion. in most cases the copyright resides with another big hobby company who will have bought up the rights to many small ones, and in most cases they are happy to give me permission to publish their old plans. Occasionally a company employs an archivist who will provide plans for a fee - and occasionally the old kits are still available. in that case I don't publish. I have only had one company say that they would not provide prints of old plans, but that I could not publish either. That was MidWest. I seem to do better with the USA hobbyists than I do in the UK. I have quite a large collection of Sterling plans, for instance, but very few from the old UK companies like Feltra. if anyone has any old plans that they would be happy getting onto the web, go to http://oldboats.tk and have a look around....
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Don - that's basically what I did but went a stage further by tracing the top and side views on the PC and then producing the
    frames
    from them which is very accurate. DodgyGeezer - I'm in no way condoning what that guy on Ebay is doing but the problem with the copyright owner is that they are not making drawings available for all of the boats that they produced hence why the likes of that guy on Ebay are able to keep on selling albeit illegally.
    8 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    The seller doesn't care about that. And Ebay doesn't care about that. I have had this battle. Ebay deals in volume sales with some simple rules. So long as the seller is willing to refund unhappy customers they can continue trading. Ebay are not competent to determine what counts as 'not well drawn' for a set of model plans, and won't get into that argument. Ebay will go through a standard procedure if copyright breach is alleged. From their site: "EeBay has created the VeRO program to protect intellectual property owners from trademark, patent or copyright infringement. Property right owners register with the VeRO program by sending eBay legal documentation and proof that they own the specified intellectual property. Having registered with eBay’s VeRO program, these property right owners monitor listings on eBay, or they use third-party web monitoring agents that help warn them of infringement threats. When their rights are violated, the owner or a representative can file a complaint by filling out the NOCI (Notice of Claimed infringement) form, complete with proof of the violation, and sending it to eBay by email or fax. eBay then investigates the issue and notifies the seller via email that a VeRO participant requested that their listing be removed. The listing will remain suspended unless and until a settlement is reached between the seller and the property rights owner." Unless the Aerokits copyright holder takes VeRO action there is nothing you can do to stop copyright breach. This makes me quite unhappy, because I would like to put the full set of Aerokits plans up on my Old Boat Plans website, but I will only do it with copyright holder approval. If you want to do anything about it you would be best advised to contact Lesro and encourage them to do something about it - http://lesromodels.co.uk/contact/
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    You are correct of course in saying it stops me leaving bad feedback , but it doesn't stop me informing Ebay that its not only copyrighted material it is also not as described πŸ˜‰
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    "Well I sent him an ebay msg expressing how displeased I was with the quality of his High Standard drawings and he said send them back for a full refund , so thats fair enough I suppose. its just a shame that a lot more people will also fall for the same thing ." I do not publish plans of the Aerokits boats on my website, because they are still under copyright and being sold commercially, so I wonder if these plans are being sold legally under license or not? The fact that the bulkheads are badly drawn suggests the latter.... Providing a complete refund minimises the risk of you leaving bad feedback - which is the only thing these sellers are scared of.
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    I found the best way is to take height and widths from the side and plan viewsof the main plan and draw new
    frames
    from there. I will know if I got it right when I build it. I know one thing for certain, they will be a better fit than the drawings he sent me , at least they are symetric about the center line
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Yes, I first started redrawing the
    frames
    by choosing the "best" side and then doing a mirror image but they are so poor even that didn't work as the angle and position of the stringers wasn't consistent from frame to frame.
    8 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Well I sent him an ebay msg expressing how displeased I was with the quality of his High Standard drawings and he said send them back for a full refund , so thats fair enough I suppose. its just a shame that a lot more people will also fall for the same thing . I did ask him if Stevie Wonder had drawn them He did try the trick of saying it says printed to a high standard but I pointed out it said Hand Drawn & printed ( to a high standard ). I did suggest he changed his listing to say hand drawn to the best of my ability which is pretty poor but printed to a high standard. it also says on the listing just transfer the drawings to the wood and cut them out. Well considering the
    frames
    are not mirror images side to side thats going to make a very twisted boat
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Hi my plans for sea queen and sea commander purchased from the same guy 5 years ago were perfect in every way Ps i also use Biro for pretend deck planking Cheers Ian t
    8 months ago by TOWN3810
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Absolutely. Why would you think anything less? if he was being honest he would say "very badly and inaccurately drawn and printed to a high standard!
    8 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    As it said drawn and printed to a high standard I read that as they are both drawn to a high standard and printed to a high standard and I think Ebay will see it that way too
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Sorry a bit off the original topic but here's a picture of my Swordsman build underway, ready for skinning. I made quite a few modifications to the drawings because I wanted the aft cockpit version at a scale of 1:12 and added a spine and "fingers" to help with construction.
    8 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Don - Unfortunately I didn't see your post until after you had ordered, so too late to warn you and I may have been wrong as regards those particular plans. Unfortunately I wasn't. Jacko - I see what you mean but drawn and printed are all one sentence so I read it as both were to a high standard and that is what you would reasonably expect. Even if the draughtsmanship wasn't the best (and I can draw to a very high standard on the drawing board and PC) they should at least be accurate, which they are anything but. The guy's just a chancer. Modelboatdevil - the plans I got were for the Swordsman. There are some original Philip Connelly plans for the Swordsman on Ebay at the moment, though they are somewhat yellowed and creased! I've never seen an example of the Aerokits Swordsman or Veron Huntsman 28 kits. What size are you looking to build to? Chris
    8 months ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    don't think i will be buying any plans from him if that's the standard ?? i did read "Printed to a high standard" (not drawn )
    8 months ago by jacko
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    Well , I'm sorry to say our fears were correct because the first of the two plans (Sea Commander) arrived this morning and as others have found the high quality drawings are absolute SH*T 😑 I think all curved lines were hand sketched by someone with very shaky hands 😲 I shall try and attach some pics. The first shows his attempt at the front windows A scan of his efforts is at the top , the correct drawing is below it The second picture is his attempt at the rear deck . One edge is a hand drawn wiggly line that should be straight . The drawing is too high, and the two sides should taper in towards the back . His drawing has one tapering in towards the back but the other side tapers outwards The third picture is a scan of one of the
    frames
    which is folded in two so as to check that both sides of it are mirror images . They are not even close So I will wait for my second plan to arrive (Sea Queen) which I expect to be no better and then put in my claim for not as described Drawn to a high standard ? what a joke
    8 months ago by donrecardo
    Forum
    Sea Queen
    frames
    I've had same feeling on my Fairey Swordsman plan I got from this guy, since not going to re-draw the
    frames
    myself, I rather prefer to look for a kit, but still in vain.
    8 months ago by modelboatdevil


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