Response

Danish Steam.

Both this boat and the other one you link to is done by a member of Vallensbæk Modelskibs Klub, where I'm also a member Bernhard is the local king of detailing his boats (and trucks).

5 years ago by Tica

Forum

Mamoli Puritan yacht plans

What-ho chaps, hope you all had a merry one. I appear to have become the 'proud' owner of a Mamoli kit for the Americas Cup cup boat 'Puritan'. Everything is in the box with the exception of the plans, instructions and the keel and formers to build the hull. There is evidence the the owner had started to build the boat, some of the detail parts have been assembled, companion ways and the like, but all the hull planking appears to still be in its pack. I suspect he took the missing parts out to start the hull but got distracted. Sadly he died earlier this year but the kit is a few years old. Now this is where you come in, hopefully. Has anyone out there built this now out of production kit and still has the plans that came with it? If so can you send me a copy, I'll pay the copying and postage costs, or can you send scans of the plans?. The interweb has yielded a set of lines and I think I can get them into scale, having found the basic dimensions of the boat, but the actual plans might yield information to ease the build. Either way I hope to produce a build blog along the way - but I've set out to do that before and failed on a Type 21 HMS Active built from scratch, got carried away building the boat. Thanks in advance Graham 'smiggy'

5 years ago by smiggy

Forum

Old plans

Does anyone know if the R Sweet plans for the Iranian Mk5 vosper thornycroft is still available electronically or in print as per MM plans service as per Model Maker plans service 2nd edition. Im going to try and my one that I started way back in 1968. Any help would be great thanks. Rgds to all Ross

6 years ago by nozzy

Forum

Landing Ship Tanks (WW2)

Mornin' John, For floating out the LCTs! This later version had a big ramp over the bow (no bow doors) and a floodable well deck for LCTs, LCPs and LCACs (known as 'LCacks'!). A huge hole right through about 2/3s of the ship 😲 Was awesome to behold, once I'd stopped meself falling into it! Tanks and trucks over the bow ramp, assault troops via LCPs and LCacks out of the blunt end! We fitted VHF/UHF/HF COMMS and datalink systems. When the Brazilian Navy carrier NaeL Minas Gerais, see pic (ex Colossus class HMS Vengeance) was finally scrapped the radios and digital intercom system we had fitted to her in the 90s was transferred to one of these Newport class LSTs. 2nd pic shows her in Rio de Janeiro harbour,Guanabara Bay, where I worked on her. Behind her are three Niteroi class s (Vosper MK10s) which we also fitted with HF/VHF/UHF COMMS and Digital intercom. Good times!😉 3rd pic shows her sad end on a scrapping beach in india, the last of the WW2 RN Colossus class😭 Abraços, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

SA Valour Class

Just a further update on my MEKO . Thanks to the patience and advice from Doug together with a local boff friend, JohnO' with advice on electronics, I have now ventured into the realm of YouTube for the first time and am able to provide the short video suggested by Reilly4 some while ago. This sequence is returning the heli back into the hangar. The "Out"sequence is the reverse. Both "Out" and "In"are sequential on one channel of the TX. I have been told that the address below must be pasted into your browser. Hope it works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04qHrO96lS0

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Response

Bulwark Stays

Hi Mike, fellow Leo! Mine is 6 days later 17.08. I've also been in Oran, Algeria, several times, talking to the navy and the naval shipyard in Mers El Kebir just round the headland from Oran. Yep, that's right, where the RN reluctantly shot up the French fleet in WW2. Result of the discussions; 3 Patrol Boats built in Mers El Kebir, 2 s built in Germany, 1 Training ship and 3 Corvettes built in China. The italians nicked my design for the COMMS system for the LPD which was built in italy (incentive - Govt. funding!), otherwise I'd have had that as well. 😡 You can't win 'em all 😉 I got my revenge just before I retired when I won the contracts for 7 ships for the Qatar Navy, built in italy by the same Genoa yard as the Algerian LPD. 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Guestbook

Guestbook Post

Hi All. Many may already recognise the 'nutter from Munich' 😁 but I just wanted to say- I first stumbled across this site and enrolled here in 2014 but was still in harness and trundling around the world working with various navies and shipyards on all sorts of naval ships from small Fast Patrol Boats through subs, Corvettes and s up to LPDs, Heli and Escort Carriers. So I didn't have much time for model building (sounds better than 'Modelling' somehow 😁😲) or contributions to the site, but I did try to keep up to date with advances, as I always did in my profession - Naval COMMS systems - and dipped in and out of this site without getting involved. Since I retired last year I have become an active member and have also dipped into, and registered with some, other Model Boat forums in various countries. But in all of them I have never found such an international, friendly and knowledgable bunch as on this site. Or such a well organised site where it is 'relatively' easy to find the info you need, or to just ask and get informed answers pronto. Sure there is room for improvement in some areas but "Tempus fugit" and things move on - so is it also on this site. I understand that a facelift and changes are afoot😉 whatever the outcome I'm sure you won't find a better web site for informed (bin there done that!) info on model boat / ship building as well as research on the original vessels this side of the asteroid belt! Welcome aboard and Happy Building and Sailing, All the best, cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Dumas USS Crockett

Ooops, apologies Dumas USS Crockett, my video post ended up on yr site..should have been on SA Valour Class .

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Response

Dumas USS Crockett

Hope this works as I can't figure out how to post a video! Click on the media file and then on the download button. The file should then appear at the bottom of your screen. Spioenkop is officially a MEKO 200SAN class . I duplicated the unusual drive used in these boats in that they have CODAG-WARP; COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine - Waterjet And Refined Propellers. I have the main props motors and the jet drive on separate channels. The video clip shows the first test of this layout with the jet drive coming in after about 4sec of video and is switched off just before the end of the video. I was just so delighted that my system worked that I unashamedly ran it madly over-scale speed on this first outing....sorry!!

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Response

SA Valour Class

Sad to say, I'm not actually a member of the Centurion Model Boat Club, despite having lived here for a number of years. But I'm sure the guys at the club would love having your model sailing there. Perhaps one day I'll have the time to venture to Emmarentia Dam to see the Spioenkop and all the other boats of the GMBC in action. Best regards, Glyn

6 years ago by Glyn

Response

SA Valour Class

Hi Glyn I am a member of GMBC and sail Emerentia Dam. I think u Guys have a big public day coming up soon and I am thinking of bring the Spoienkop along for a sail...that is if I can fix my TX in time (battery plug in the TX broken off and I can't find a replacement).

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Response

SA Valour Class

Hi Joburg, PM me, might have a useful surprise for you😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

SA Valour Class

Wish I had caught up with you earlier Doug as your input re the MEKO 200 SAN would have been of great help. Fortunately (also late in the build) I found a long lost 2nd cousin (twice removed!) who served onboard the Spioenkop on her delivery voyage in 2005 and got some good stuff from him. Also found a clip on Facebook that provided detail that I had missed. Watch the interest of the bridge officers as they notice the drone filming them! https://www.facebook.com/andre.oosthuizen.9615/videos/vb.100001251523644/1649460131772355/?type=2&video_source=user_video_tab Currently the hangar door and chopper movement is not connected to anything...just demonstrated by putting then in contact with a battery individually. I have a spare channel on the stick and also the on/off switch used for model aircraft engine/power cut that I use on my Corvette model for the smoke generator. The sequence I would like to achieve is 1. Activate (power on) door opens. 2. Door reaches stop ...microswitch/ (stays fully open) 3. Chopper movement switch on 4. Chopper clears hangar and reaches stop on helipad. 5. if pos, close sequence in reverse of above. Reilly4 I can let you have a short video but I need some help as to how I place a video on the website. Some more pics taken during the build process attached just FYI.

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Response

SA Valour Class

A short video on the helicopter and hangar movements would be nice to see.

6 years ago by reilly4

Response

SA Valour Class

MEKO 200SAN, Blohm + Voss, nice ships, know the MEKOs well. Was often at B+V, worked on the next version, MEKO 200AN for the Algerian navy, I designed the integrated COMMS system for them😉 You've built a great very representative model there, well done👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: might have an idea how you can do the 'sequential' with a few microswitches😉 More later when I've thought out the details. How are you operating the doors and the heli mover at the TX? Switches or proportional stick / pot?

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

SA Valour Class

Comments appreciated Colin. Many thanks.

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Response

SA Valour Class

Super looking model. Really impressed, keep up the good work.

6 years ago by Colin H

Media

SA Valour Class

My second scratch build. SA Navy "Spioenkop". 1:80 scale. 2 Mtroniks 600 motors on the scale 40mm (home made) props running on 6v and Hobbywing 860 brushed ESC. Jetdrive (also homemade) runs on a 550 motor (I think!) and a 1060 Hobbywing ESC running on 12v. Chopper is a heavily modified Hobbyboss RN Super Lynx. Hangar door opens as well as chopper moves on helideck with worm drive and magnets. idea is that this would happen sequentially ... but haven't managed to sort that out as I am "electronically challenged". Suggestions welcome!

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Forum

46Firefloat Mk2 paint

Hi Astromorg, Hmm! Your assessment throws up some interesting questions! 1 if the 'teardrop' is a DF antenna what frequency band was it intended to detect? it's way too small to contain the multiple antenna elements necessary to detect, and determine the angle of incidence, of any frequency in common use at that time. I've also never seen a microwave waveguide that shape. if DF I would expect a rotating loop antenna in that era. 2 it's my conviction that the tear drop on the Vickers Wellington is a streamlined VHF antenna. Or just possibly a radar detector much later in the 'grand ruckus'. 3 Why would a Fireboat need a DF set anyway? 4 Some photos clearly show a forward facing lens (white disc) in the teardrop. 5 Such boats when tied up to a mooring buoy instead of the dock would require a 360° visible light. Hence mast-top is the favourite mounting place. 6 Visible angle is primarily a question of the lamp and lens construction and not necessarily the mounting position. 7 A stern light providing the 'fill in all round' is a contradiction of the purpose of running lights which are so constructed and mounted as to help the observer to determine which way the vessel is moving. Forward and aft lights visible 180°? red and green 90°. Which combination you can see helps indicate which way the vessel is moving; towards or away from you. Conversely the single anchor light should be visible from any angle. it can be yellow to distinguish it from a running light. Current regulations also recommend the use of deck lights while at anchor. 8 I agree re position halfway up the mast for the forward running light, BUT, as the masts on these vessels were often folded down the permanently fixed forward running light on the cabin roof would make sense. But then, that's only my opinion! And what do I know?😲 I only worked in communication engineering for 45 years, the last 32 of 'em in integrated Naval Communication Systems, on all types of vessels from Fast Patrol Boats through FACs, OPVs, corvettes, s, conventional subs and up to Escort Aircraft Carrier. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Jerry Todd's Macedonian

Magnificent Jerry 👍👍👍 Love the copper sheathing - a 'labour of love' !? Are the cannons per chance 3D prints? Lovely work a real inspiration, do you build for museums??? Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Bollard Hieght!

My pleasure Ed, It's actually a New Zealand navy , probably one of the German (Blohm & Voss) MEKO types built for the ANZAC program. Pic is from under the Heli Deck on the stern. First 'fairlead' pic I stumbled on in my archive, don't have too many tugs in the electronic stash😉 Let me know if you need any help with the LED circuit; dropping resistor etc. I agree with the green, so dark makes her look a bit drab and 'sinister'. A lighter shade would be more cheerful - and easier to see on the pond! Attached is a Humbrol wall chart (with some conversion tables to other makes) which might give you some inspiration 😉 How about #90, Beige Green matt? You might also look at Tamiya and italeri acrylics. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Event

Warship Day

Event open to all to show off and sail their models of Military boats. MTB's, s, Destroyers, Battleships, Submarines etc. Tea Coffee and refreshments available. Disabled Access. 10am till 1800hrs. For more info contact Rob 07714517445

6 years ago by Aquaflite

Response

MTB

Hi Rowen, we're not splitting hairs! Together we are getting to the roots👍 I had also noticed the slight differences in superstructure; especially the aft part and the bridge top/screen. But I noticed these variations also in the Danish and other variants. Didn't want to overload the post with these as I thought it was long enough already😲 Seems some variations were introduced depending on the base variant it was ordered as MTB or MGB (most of which still had at least two torpedoes!). Since the Brave class were apparently very expensive to produce (which is why only two were built not the planned six?) the later variants were based on a cheaper export version, 'Felicity' type I think they were called. They were a little smaller but with similar performance and firepower to the Braves, some with two Perseus turbines instead of two but most with three as in the Braves, and cheaper to build with wood on alu frames instead of all metal. Usually classed as FPBs or FACs depending on armament. Summary; The Perkasa was not a generic class but a specific four ship class for the RMN. Basis for the hulls and superstructure design was the same as the Braves and Felicity but some 'poetic license' was taken with subsequent export order with variations even within classes. Comparing available (to me) pics again I now tend to agree with you that the rounded bridge of the model is more like the Perkasa class than the box-like bridge of Swordsman. 😲 BTW: in 1971 the RMN Perkasas were upgraded with SS12 missiles so there's another interesting variant for the aficionados 😉 Credentials: was not in the RAF (but Dad was!), but I worked with the RMN and the Surabaya shipyard (and various other bidders) on the design of the COMMS systems for the replacements for the Perkasa class and then their replacements, up to the current NGPV-2 (New Generation Patrol Vessel-Batch 2). interesting work and people. Also did some work on their new s and an auxiliary in the nineties. One thing I always did before embarking on such projects was to research the background of the navy involved, operational area and requirements and also the potential shipyard partners. Part of establishing confidence and rapport. 😉 Anyway - whatever; model-wise - if it looks right it probably is right! Main thing is fun planning, building and above all sailing, exchanges like this help us all a lot I believe. All the best Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB

Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable. The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them. I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.) I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com) The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops. The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years. (I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building RC planes in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago. The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC. Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel. The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light. Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!

6 years ago by circle43nautical

Forum

rotating radars off mast

Hi seafarer, I've scratch built a Type 21 and managed to find motors for the radars. I got them from a company called Precission Microdrives, web site https://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/gearmotors. They don't come cheap, the three on the mast cost £45 - and then there's the replacement for the one I 'lubricated' with super glue. That said the effect is fantastic and they just make a slight whirring noise when running and go all day on the 6 volt battery (I needed to fit resistors to them to get the speed down a bit). Hope this helps. Graham PS The service was very good. PPS The film of them working doesn't appear to be working so I've posted a still, the motors are 20mm long to give an indication of the size. The air traffic control radar on the bottom platform shows the full length of the motors. PPPS Web address changed, thanks Dave.

7 years ago by smiggy

Blog

rig & sails

a few things have been mentioned about my build ie the rig is not as it should be the reason being i lost the index finger on my right hand so to be able to de rig it is easier to use bowsies with me it is a case of suck it & see I have decided to have the sails made by Mastman he does a lot of barge bits I have more or less copied the build from plans for the Celia Jane but me being me i tend to deviate to suit my needs I served my time in shipyards on both the Tyne & Wear i became a shipyard manager in Swan Hunters and the last three s built their were what we called as built we worked from schematics not drawings no two ships were the same 🤐

7 years ago by Northumbrian

Forum

Tilgear

Brill 👍😊 Wear it with pride, the T-shirt I mean 😉 My equivalent is I have several baseball caps from various navies and ships I have worked on, e.g. the one in my profile pic from PFG (Patrol ) Almirante Lynch of the Chilean Navy. She was a gun Leander, one of two purpose built for Chile. Long since sold on to Ecuador and replaced with ex RN Type 23s. I worked on the HF transmitters on board in Valparaiso. Took so long we nearly ended up sailing with her! Would have been interesting😉 COMMS Officer was getting very nervous! 😲 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: So was I, didn't have a toothbrush in my toolkit! 😲Sweat sweat 😱

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Deceased members fleet

Sadly one of our founder members passed away and his widow has asked me to post his fleet for sale so here we have the Zulu finished to a high standard looking for offers around £325 please PM if would like further info and i will give you the contact details

7 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Blog

The Launch

As soon as the cutter was off the build-board, I started on the launch. The launch is the largest of the ship's boats and the only one of them that's carvel planked. The build board was cut narrower for the reason spoken of earlier. Since the frame spacing was the same, I could reuse most of the marks. The stem, keel, sternpost, and transom plus a sternpost knee, were assembled. The forms were cut from balsa again, sanded to the line and rough beveled, then glued to the board. The ribs are 1/16" thick x 1/8" wide bass again. This time I didn't glue them to the forms at all, they're only helg by the rubber bands. Once they were on the forms, the keel assembly was glued to the ribs and the build board and planking commenced. When the planking was done, the stem and transome were cut free and hull lifted off the forms. The ribs between the ribs were added. The drawings of Constellation's boat didn't show anything more than their lines. I had little information as to their interior and hardware details. For the launch, I did know she carried a 12 pound boat howitzer and some information on that which gave me a little more about the boat's interior. Using Ivan as a guide (He's a 1:35 scale WWII Russian sailor and the model's first of some 30-40 eventual crewmen) I determined there needed to be a deck in the boat so that went in, but first I painted the bilges of the boat as I'd never be able to get in there after the deck went on. The launch was coppered. I used peel-and-stick aluminum duct tape to "copper" the bottom, and painted it copper. I have a 1:36 scale British in the works, and this is how I intend to "copper" her as it's less than 1/4 the cost of Constellation's real copper. The launch has special tracks and rails in her for handling the gun. The gun can be shifted fore and aft, and the field carriage can be tossed in the sheets, and rolled forward on tracks of it's own for taking ashore. We're still a long way from Higgins boats here folks. 😉 There's more details to add, to boat boats; hardware, water casks, thole pins, oars, sails, etc etc etc. There's also 4 more boats to build; the 2nd cutter, whaleboat, and two quarter-boats just alike.

7 years ago by Jerry Todd

Blog

Building a deck

I began laying the deck on April 5th. it had snowed as recently as the week before, but it finally warmed up enough to use glue. The strips were cut to 6-5/8" length, about 20' in 1:36 scale. I used a black marker on two opposite sides to represent the pitch in the seams. The deck was laid in a 5-plank pattern to mix up the butt-joints as much as I could. My research on her decking found she's had various styles and plank widths over her life. The earliest photo showing her deck that I could find, showed it straight planked with 7 or 8" wide boards based on the number of planks between her waterway and the main hatch coaming. Her waterway logs seem to be placed ON the decking, as there's no margin planks or joggling - even today. The planking was set with gel CA. Gorilla sells it in a nice bottle with a metal pin in the cap to keep the spout open. it would up taking 3 of these bottles to complete the deck. The planks are cut at a 45 on the ends along the fore and aft access hatches, to try and hide this seam as much as possible. Once the deck was down, I scraped it. The glue is more resistant than the basswood is, so sanding would have scalloped the wood between seams. Scraping makes everything level. Some lite sanding, more to polish than remove anything, was done last. I had planned to stain the deck a very light grayish tint, but an active naval vessel gets holy-stoned regularly and wouldn't be gray as the ships that sit at a dock today are. In all it took 455 pieces to complete the deck and there wasn't any scrap longer than 1 inch left over. in all I have 3/4" deck beams, 1/4" plywood, a layer of 4oz cloth and resin, and a 3/16" basswood deck - I don't recall why I designed it so heavy, but it certainly doesn't hurt the model at all, and I think the 3/16" square strip will prove to have been easier to set than the 1/16" x 1/4" planks Pride and Macedonian will get. The deck go a coat of water-based satin poly, and I stared working on hatch coamings, cap log, and waterways. The cabin skylight and two hatched forward of it, including the capstan, and all combined into one hatch where the battery is accessed, and which hides the aft ballast rod and main power switch. The cap logs Are 1/2" wide x 1/4" tall basswood that was tren'led, glued, and copper nailed, onto the deck, flush with the outside of the hull covering this seam completely. The the angled wood waterways were installed around the inside of the cap log, and the deck got a coat of oil-based satin poly. This actually leeched in and made the marker seams bleed a little. in hind sight, I think I'll go with paint over marker for seams in the future. The coamings got painted black. I'm not sure why the Navy painted deck fittings black. it was even common to paint to top surfaces of tops black. I wonder how many injuries and losses this cost the navy that white paint would have prevented. Anyway... Constellation didn't have "solid" bulwarks, but rather she had hammock irons bolted to her cap log. These were removed when Baltimore tried to pass her off as a and tossed in the bilge. When the ship was restored as a sloop of war, they found all but one. These irons are designed to have wooden rails at their tops, inboard and out, and have holes so several lines can be run through them. The Navy in it's wisdom though, decided to wainscot them to appear as solid bulwarks, despite the additional splinter hazard that would be in battle. I wasn't making all those metal stanchions just to hide them under wood and tarps, so I made wood blocks sheathed in sheet bass, scribed to look like vertical wainscotting. It was the end of April by now, and the Baltimore Port Expo was in two weeks. I wanted to have hammocks in the bulwarks, as she appears in the portrait, but there was no time to figure this out, so I layered on some balsa and shaped it so it looked like tarps were laid over the hammocks. When I figure out how I'll represent the stowed hammocks, I can pull the balsa off easily enough. The bulwarks on, I made some fittings for the spencer masts; installed the eye bolts at the base of the masts; made some bollards (or whatever name they gave those posts), made and installed the catheads, which are laminated 1/16" basswood. I then started setting up a jury rig and her controls so she could sail at the Port Expo. I set her t'gallants and all three heads'ls this time around. By the night before the Expo, she was ready to go.

7 years ago by Jerry Todd

Blog

New Brace System

I've kept a log of this build on RCGroups forums since 2009. We share experiences, brainstorm ideas, and help each other out with a lot of the idiosyncrasies of RC square-rig sailing. A fellow there named Dan and I had a long running discussion on dealing with slack in the braces when there are prototypically mounted near the ends of the yards. This discussion led to the sliding winch. The winch servo, unaltered in any way, is mounted on Delrin blocks with holes through which pass a pair of brass rods. The winch can slide fore and aft on theses rods. A pair of aluminum angle hold the ends of the rods so the servo is off the deck and can move freely. A pair of spring are on the rods to provide tension by pushing against the winch. When the yard is square across the model, the servo is pressing on the spring(s). As the yard is turned, the spring pushes the winch back on the rods taking up any slack in the braces. I mounted everything on a pallet again, keeping it modular so I can get at things, and easily take them out if need be. While assembling it, one of the winches started acting strange. I replaced it with another one, which required, removing the winch drum screw and drum; unplugging the servo from the receiver; loosening 4 screws that hold the winch to the slide-blocks; then do all that in reverse to put in the new winch. I also got Servo-Stretchers that increase the the sail-arm servo's range from 90° to 180° and allow adjustment of the center position. You'll notice two servo-trays in the pictures; the other one is for the Macedonian model. As the year went on, I installed bumpkins for and aft. Got some gold dry-transfer lettering and put her name on her stern. Made t'gallant/royal masts.Made a servo arm for the rudder servo that had cleats to allow steering cable adjustment. And installed fairleads for the running rigging below. All things that had to get done in order to put the spardeck on.

7 years ago by Jerry Todd

Response

Paul Foster

Muito bem! Gostoso 👍😎 In the 1990s I worked on the carrier Minas Gerais and the Niteroi class s on the Ilhas do Cobras in Rio. Happy days! 😉 Best wishes from Munich. 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Media

HMNZS Te Kaha

Scratch built model of New Zealand completed 17 years ago Sailed well but now ready for refit with new engines and more modern RC fittings Will complete a Build Blog when I commence the refit

7 years ago by Rod

Media

canterbury and waikato

1/48 scale scratch built models of RNZN s RC

7 years ago by admiral

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Captain Class - HMS Curzon K513

Thank you Ian, hope I can pass on a few gems?? Regards Dave

7 years ago by Pav403

Response

Captain Class - HMS Curzon K513

Good luck with your build Dave. I'm an old newbie so will watch and learn, cheers, Ian. 👍

7 years ago by justintime2001

Blog

Captain Class - HMS Curzon K513

Hello, This is my second attempt at this model, I tried this many years ago but had to admit defeat as I did not have the time or patience as a 20 something. Anyway, older wiser and with a lot of lessons learnt I am giving this another go. She was originally a Buckley Class DE from the US and transferred under the Lease Lend scheme to the RN in 1943. This was my Granddads ship in the war so I have a connection to her and have always wanted to have this as part of my fleet. I've uploaded an image of the plans I have from the Model Dockyard (US Buckley DE) and will modify it to fit the photo I've also attached. The final picture is my start on the keel and forward sections tacked in place. I'll upload more when there is progress. Good luck with your builds. Dave

7 years ago by Pav403

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F123

hI ya Dave thanks for your help will post it over weekend thanks phill

8 years ago by philmontague

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F123

HI can any body please help me I found a picture of a F123 taken about 1964 and would like some info on her if ican think she was based at HMS TERROR in middle east or around that way thanks in advance 😑

8 years ago by philmontague

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F123

Hello, closest I could find to that pennant no is the old type 81 s range, can you share the picture? Might be able to help more. Regards Dave

8 years ago by Pav403

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FUNNEL CAPS

Good luck if you do give it a go. The beauty of using balsa is that it is so easy to work and is very light so you aren't adding any real weight at the top of the superstructure, something that is vital on these s that can be very tender and roll a lot. Most of my is balsa for just this reason and it can carry enough ballast to keep it stable in all conditions.

8 years ago by smiggy

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FUNNEL CAPS

I made the funnel for my Type 21 by the old bread and butter method using 1/4in balsa. I drew the different sections needed, glued them together and then sanded them down. The cap was made in one piece and fitted onto the top face that was sanded to the correct angle. it was then finished in a couple of coats of resin to seal the job and then filler where necessary. The various exhausts are from odd bits of tubing in the scrap box, but the rectangular vents for the Olympus engines were a fiddle getting the angles right so that they stood vertically on the angled plane. If you want to try 3D printing talk to Fireboat, aka Stephen, who runs this site, as he had a 3D printer and produced a load of life raft canisters for me and was very helpful. Graham

8 years ago by smiggy

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HMNZS Canterbury, HMNZS Waikato, HMNZS Taranaki

This video shows four New Zealand models, at 1/48 scale, radio-controlled, HMNZS Canterbury leads, then Waikato, Otago and Taranaki. All models built from scratch, from Navy plans. Build time about 6 months each. 1970's era idea based on a photo of these ships taken sailing in Wellington Harbour.

8 years ago by admiral

Media

HMNZS Royalist

6ft loa, RC, scratch-built, grp hull. 10 yrs old. Sold to private museum. Am building my 3rd RC model of HMNZS Taranaki, Rothsey class . Over past 40 years have built many RN - e.g. Force H, Med., 1943, such as Illustrious, Sheffield etc. Refer www.modelboats.co.uk January 2014 issue. My main request is that I can establish somebody UK with similar interest, despite my living NZ but unable to attend your excdellent sights.

8 years ago by admiral

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Figure

hI all I'm trying to get some figures for my she a big ship she got a 1.72 scale Lynx sat on her deck the figure In the lynx look about the right size, dose anyone have any Idea where I can get the same size with out buying kits??thanks lee.

9 years ago by Vickers1979

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Castle class - HMS Harlech Castle

Cenbeth, I've had very mixed results using cyno on brass even when roughening the surface. Davem, Thanks for the pics, thats a good looking model.

9 years ago by swanee

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Castle class - HMS Harlech Castle

I have been building this boat on and off for years, I know It's only semi-scale but It Is an attractive model none the less. My problem Is building the lattice mast structure. I was thinking of soldering It from from brass strip and angle (I can use a soldering Iron) with high and low temp solder to simplify construction. As almost everyone on this site Is more experienced than me, I wondered If anyone else has a better Idea. P.S. I love the blog on HMS Diamond, what a beauty.

9 years ago by swanee

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Castle class - HMS Harlech Castle

HI Swanee I have the hull for a Castle Class and am researching which model to eventually build. The lattice mast is a very visible feature and quite exposed, so prone to damage. A soldered mast will look really sharp and be much more robust than a glued version. Your method will work well and give you a realistic and resilient structure. There was a model of Leeds Castle at last years Boat Convention at Haydock. I took some pics and have shared a couple of the mast details. Dave

9 years ago by Dave M

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Castle class - HMS Harlech Castle

Hi, Have you thought of using superglue?

9 years ago by cenbeth

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Custom Made Parts & Fittings

I've just finished a mostly scratch built Type 21 1/96th scale. I was hoping to source at least some of the fittings from Sirmar as they are/were the only ones working in that scale. I managed to locate some of the parts but have had to make most. The worst part to have to make lots of the life raft canisters. in desperation to get the boat finished I ended up cannibalising my model of a Type 22 so I still need some more. Similar with the Corvus chaff launchers, but there are only 2 per boat and I do know where there is at least one in kit form. I have considered buying a kit and making up a mould and casting some afresh, or patiently making a load using some dowel and a lot of patience but if you can make some then great. I suppose the next question is what info do you need. I can draw one for you with dimensions and send a file (Illustrator or PDF) to you via PM.

10 years ago by smiggy