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    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Things will be a bit up in the air with the Hobbico bankrupcy. But Horizon Hobby have taken over
    futaba
    distribution - see https://www.
    futaba
    rc.com/contact.html They advise chasing
    futaba
    USA for anything further - so these people might be the best to ask: https://
    futaba
    usa.com/contactus/ Don't buy poor photocopies of manuals at exorbitant prices without checking with the manufacturer first....
    7 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    hi ya Colin - I had a good look round the web to try and find the instructions manual for your
    futaba
    FP-T7 UPH and it keeps coming up with the links that I have already posted but there are also one or two links which the firewall wont allow me to open - it says its got virus' on - so I wonder what that one is. I did come across an auction site - not Ebay - that had one for sale with the instructions and if you look at the instructions they are similar/same as the link I have already posted. So, I am wondering are these instructions for the two sets of transmitters - and possibly the one you have is an upgrade. I see on Ebay there is someone in USA who sells manuals on CD for around Β£8 if you desperate. Of all the transmitter manuals I have looked for this one is an oddball one for finding the manual. Happy days. John
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    John can you please tell us the li k for the manual download for the
    futaba
    FP-T7UHP TRANSMITTER. Thanks Colin.
    7 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks John, that's what I was thinking of trying, finally getting my head around the details of the mixing at source. I have another old
    futaba
    set with mixing as well, which I used for a Lancaster and found that by controlling ort and starboard motors via mixing made it a really stable flyer. Just hope it will work as well on my boats as I have a couple of fast launches with twin motors to get restored and back on the water. Thanks for all the help from everyone and especially you and Dodgy. Cheers Colin
    7 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    I have just spent a couple of mins downloading and reading through the manual for your transmitter, Colin and I see you have limited mixing similar to the old
    futaba
    6A models. if it were me (going back to your original question) I would use this transmitter with a new receiver and fit these into your model and use tank steering as in the 4th diagram on that little image I put on of the electrical layouts. Very simple and straightforward. I think its channel 2 on your right hand stick used for rudder.
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    I'm not a
    futaba
    specialist, but isn't that the Helicopter version of the FP-7? if so, it will have a lot of settings and features which will be 'very confusing' to a marine modeller...
    7 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Help with vintage rc.
    Hi there fellow boaters, I have just acquired a vintage model fitted with a
    futaba
    digimax 4 reciever. What is the chance of it working with any other type of transmitter, or do I need to buy a vintage digimax 4 transmitter. Does it have interchangeable crystals. I could change all the electrics but would prefer to keep it original. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Colin.
    7 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones . I have ordered a new rudder, and new plexi glass for the windows. Already in hand is an Mtronics Viper marine 25 amp ESC. 12 volt 7ah battery,
    futaba
    27 or 40 Mhz RX.
    futaba
    servo. Just awaiting the motor from Doug (RN in Munich). We are going to repaint the Hull in White, Cabin sides in Dark Blue, Cabin roofs in White. The decks will be left as my dad made them, just cleaned and a fresh coat of varnish. the inside of the hull is well sealed already with bitumen (original) which is still allright. Next stage start rubbing down the hull ready for the glass cloth and Ezekote resin. at least i can do this indoors in the warm, workshop too d*** cold. Thats all for today shipmates, more to come, Cheers Colin.
    8 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Steve, have you calibrated the throttle first? (read 2 and 2.2) on the instructions, You have to give the ESC a full, low and mid-point throttle position before you can start the programming. Plug in motor and ESC BEC lead into throttle position in REC. Turn on TX and give it full throttle. (make sure motor is held firmly as it may kick hard if started) Program - plug in batt wait 2 secs for beeps then wait 5 secs for musical tone (now in program mode) wait for 1,2,3 or 4 beeps (asks which program you want and will keep cycling through till you chose one) as soon as you hear the no of beeps for the program you want quickly pull the stick to the bottom and wait for the reply,- it will now cycle through the programs in step 3. Choose the one you want in the same manner as the last selection but by moving the stick to full throttle (if you miss it it will cycle round again) Hold it there and it will reply (musical beeps) wait and the program will return to step 2 and you can select the next setting to enter and repeat the process. Safest to set Auto battery and then the others as per chart especially min batt volts. Once happiness filled, follow the Program Exit instructions (step 4) Also as 'RN' previously mentioned, if you have a
    futaba
    , you may have to reverse the throttle to make it all work. When finished, unplug batt, turn off TX, re start everything (TX, Batt/RX) and check. AS A PRECAUTION,MAKE THROTTLE NEUTRAL BEFORE RE STARTING IF YOU HAVE SET FWD AND REV, OR LOW IF NOT. BE AWARE THROTTLE MAY BE REVERSED ALSO). You may have to have a few goes but you will get there and realize it's not that difficult after all . if in doubt just un-plug the battery and start steps again. Just think of it like the ESC is asking you "do you want this"? at a particular set of beeps, and you are replying by moving the stick, or ignoring that question and moving to the next one. if you are using a pistol grip TX just let the trigger go and it will give you neutral/center (as per instructions 2.2
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    RC Mixer
    Hi, I'm doing some (a lot) of research before embarking on a Bristol Pilot build. My attention has now turned to controlling the twin fore sails. A helpful guy at my club mentioned using a 'mixer'. Anyone who has controlled two foresails and/or a genoa on a racing yacht may have some ideas here - any welcome. But my initial question is about terminology. Reading my
    futaba
    handbook - a truly excellent translation 😑- I find two terms under the mixer section - 'OFS' and 'VR' - any idea what they mean? For interest, the problem is that the front sail overlaps the rear 'foresail' so we can not simply attach a sheet to the front sail to drag it to a 'tight' position as this may tangle with the rear foresail. The second problem is that if the foresail is out to the port, the drum winch must turn anticlockwise to haul it in, whereas when it is to starboard the winch must turn clockwise. I do love these problems, but desperately need help. If its only someone telling me not to be stupid and just lket the foresail hang loose - I'm not racing afterallπŸ‘ Sam
    10 months ago by sam
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) Wilhelm G
    Scratch built 'freelance' tug carved from a solid 12''x 12''x 45" block of driftwood in the 70s Wheelhouse was ply. Motor controlled by a set of car points for on/off. Had 2 different cabin styles and rails in its life. Had lights. Radio was
    futaba
    'brown box'on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (5/10)
    10 months ago by jbkiwi
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) Titan
    Built this in the 80s. Carved from a block of foam and fiberglassed (hull and deck). Wheelhouse was ply, everything scratch built to own design. Had 540 motor with a set of car points for on /off. had lights that could be switched on by deck switch. Radio was
    futaba
    'brown box' on 27mhz. (Motor: 540) (ESC: none) (5/10)
    10 months ago by jbkiwi
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) MTB 49
    Scratch built Thornycroft MTB from a 1960s Vic Smeed plan. Boat is 40yrs old from start till now. Bought plans in 1968 and finished 20 yrs later working on and off. Was twin prop with single
    futaba
    ESC, on 27Mhz then an Electronize ESC on FM 40 Mhz now have just converted it to twin car ESCs and added a sound unit and is now run on 2.4 . Has a 100mm 12v computer fan for cooling with heat sinks on the motors. Has separate cabin lights and running lights. (Motor: 380 27MM) (ESC: CHINA) (5/10)
    10 months ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    Proboat Sonicwake
    Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the
    futaba
    T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . πŸ˜πŸ˜‹ Boaty.
    10 months ago by boaty
    Media
    Thornycroft MTB
    Just converted this 40yr old twin brushless model (scratch built from a Vic Smeed plan) to a proper independent twin system plus a sound unit. Started off with a 70s
    futaba
    ESC on 27mhz, then on FM, then replaced with an Electronize unit on FM, then to 2.4 and now on 2.4 with twin ESCs and converted TGY S6 (twin throttles). Maneuvers a lot better and makes a better noise.
    10 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Martin, maybe! Maybe not! You might be lucky. Check the RX with just a servo plugged in somewhere. Then try setting up the ESC according to the instructions I sent. Basically all you have to do is tell it what type of battery you are using. Then it sets the correct 'Cut Off' voltage. BTW: since this is a 'One way only' ESC before you switch the system on make sure the throttle stick is pulled right back. Otherwise the motor will start up straight away. Mind yer fingas!! 😑 Also check that the throttle channel is not reversed at the TX - like most
    futaba
    sets for some crazy reason - or again the motor will start up with the throttle pulled back. PDF: as Steve says; click on the Icon, then on [Download] in the top left corner. Windows should then offer you the choice of 'Open' or 'Save'. Click 'Save' and Windows will ask where you want to put the file. Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Yacht) fair wind
    kyosho fair wind yacht .This is getting on for twenty years old,it is a big yacht wth a main mast and sails that is over 4 feet high.The electrics are
    futaba
    and it has two servos fitted one for the rudder and the other is for the sails.The hull is Abs with the mast and booms made from aluminum.I purchased this in a poor state with problem electrics and in need of tlc. (8/10)
    10 months ago by keithtindley
    Blog
    The wheelhouse navigation light.
    This is a small item but very visible on the wheelhouse and since the standard for this item has been set I have to follow suit. So first of all get some 3mm blue LEDs ordered and then it’s on with preparing the white metal body. I used by hand as suggested a series of drills increasing in diameter until 3.1 dia was reached but only 2/3 down the length from the front the smaller hole (1.5mm) was bored right through for the wires to exit. Arrival of the LEDs, first check the LED using my power supply, just over 3 volts seems to illuminate to the correct level. Next was to remove the shoulder on its plastic casing so the whole body does not exceed 3mm over its length and lightly abrade the outside to give a diffused light. Next cut the LED legs to 2mm from the plastic casing noting which is positive, next prepare the wires. I used
    futaba
    servo wire cable 22awg which is very flexible and with the white signal wire stripped off leaving a red and black wire. These were tinned and cropped to 2mm and then quickly soldered to the appropriate terminal. Next check the LED still works! first hurdle over, I now needed to check the that when the LED goes into the body it doesn’t short out so checking the diameter over the widest part which is over the soldered terminals this was 0.1 below 3mm. I decided that shrink sleeve was too thick so I mixed some epoxy resin and coated all around the terminals, this proved to be satisfactory in both non-conductivity and dimensionally. Now the final test, using some aliphatic wood glue I slid the LED into the body whilst it was illuminated as it was a tight push fit, bingo it’s still lit – leave to set. I used aliphatic glue, as it would be easier to remove should I ever have to change the LED. The body still needs painting white but this will be done with all the other fittings at a later stage.
    10 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Fast electric rc transmitters
    Just got a new Proboat Sonicwake .The e.s.c and brushless motor look very good but the STX2 TX appears to be a bit cheap . Not sailed it as yet but changed over to the
    futaba
    T2HR system as I had already done on my Blackjack 29. I prefer the stick to the wheel and the Blackjack runs very well on the
    futaba
    T2HR and has the steering adjuster on top right of the TX case. Has anyone else used the
    futaba
    set in place of the one that comes with the boat.😁 Boaty
    11 months ago by boaty
    Forum
    Hobby King receiver clones
    Does anyone know if a Sanwa Rx will work with
    futaba
    Xtals. Both 35 mhz (planes only)πŸ‘πŸ€” More modern battery packs can replace the old DEACS so no probs there Westie.πŸ‘ I too use Bang Good and also Gear Best Both excellent.πŸ‘
    12 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    ESC
    I am building a swamp buggy using an 18 V motor from a string trimmer what type of ESC should I use the boat has a
    futaba
    fp r127pf 75radio controller
    12 months ago by blazero1
    Forum
    Hobby King receiver clones
    Hi Bryan, I have found problems, even with matched crystals, the usual problem is that the some of the old rx's would not operate with a tx from a different manufacturer. I have acoms,
    futaba
    , Fleet and magregor as well as some unbranded tx's, but some of the models which I have aren't working with tx unless it's the same brand as the rx. This problem is mostly on the 27mhz models, although a couple of 40mhz systems have had the same problem. I always buy matched pair crystals. Even some am sets which never have a problem. So I thought if I can make a chart showing what is compatible with what. Cheers Colin.
    12 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver
    I know what you mean, i have altered my Mcgregor TX to
    futaba
    , the receiver was gutted and a
    futaba
    RX hidden inside!!! this was for use on some 60's models so it looked the part, modern internals with a retro outer case
    12 months ago by jarvo
    Directory
    (Other) Avanti
    ARTR fast electric by Thunder Tiger. Deep vee powered by Ripper Brushless outrunner. Will reach 30mph+ when flat out. I replaced the radio that came with the boat with stick operated
    futaba
    T2HR as I preferred "stick" to wheel for sailing fast boats. initial problem was slight leak where stern tube passes through the transom but soon fixed it with epoxy. Electrics are in a box at the stern which is appears to be water resistant. Though not for a raw beginner, it is great for a second boat especially if someone is hoping to move on to a 6S . if not , it makes a good all rounder and is ideal for club fast electric racing and it performs well when doing tight turns. Boaty (Motor: OBL29/19-15M) (ESC: BLC-40M) (9/10)
    12 months ago by boaty
    Media
    Sterling Yacht America
    Sterling Yacht America 51 1/2” long 8 1/2” beam 41” high. Model was built from kit has auxiliary electric power and
    futaba
    sail wench servo. Model weighs 11 lbs and has a removable 2 lb. keel weight.
    1 year ago by Mikep
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Component Shop Do Servo Testers For Wiring I found this hope it helps
    1 year ago by Ianh
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Hi all, just finding gear to put in my Sea Hornet, aka Chris Craft Special Racer Runabout and I find a
    futaba
    FD16 M servo which appears to be OK, but I have a nagging voice telling me that
    futaba
    servos are wired differently? It has white, red, black in that order. Is that OK for plugging into a modern receiver? Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    BTW John; Re LED testing: Yes I also use the 'diode' function of my multimeter to do a quick 'will it? won't it?' check. BUT that only tells me it works. With the tester I can determine the optimum current the LED needs, and thus the dropping resistor for any given supply voltage. Above a certain current, usually 20 to 30mA for the 3 and 5mm types, depending on type and colour, more current just produces heat instead of more brightness. Pic shows my tester, only few quid😊, see mA scale along the top! Runs off a 9V block. Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Mornin John Re detector circuit: it's not very complicated, only 3 or 4 actual components. The clues are good RF diode and a very sensitive meter! I just bought a couple of 300microamp full scale meters. Will do a little blog when I've tidied it up and boxed it. Re Heli: can you post or mail me pics of the TX, RX and ESC please. Brushed or Brushless motors? Given manufacturer / model numbers I might be able to figure out what the pissibolities are. No promises though πŸ˜‰ Sounds to me like the TX stick is set up for forwards / backwards like a normal car or boat set up. I.e. for 0 to full speed in either direction is only half the stick travel. For aircraft 0 is full down, giving you the full stick travel for the speed range. The ESC probably needs to be 're-educated' and the TX throttle stick re-programmed, IF at all possible with the TX you got with the Heli. Re " P.S. Signals come from where Doug?" - Don't understand the question John ?? Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    A question for you Doug A while back I got a little helicopter and Tx. 40 meg However I don't think the tx is the right one as it was one in a pile.. The problem is although it works up to a point the rotors don't move until the lever is about halfway through the range of movement and the rotors don't reach take off revs. The question is it possible to recalibrate or adjust the pot in some way to sort this? I couldn't test the set when bought as it was a place that sells S/H stuff from house clearances etc so no batteries etc So I took a chance as it was so cheap. I hope you can help as it's quite a cute little thing. Ciao John P.S. Signals come from where Doug?
    1 year ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Doug When you get the circuit sorted for the B/B tester I'd like a copy please. Will it be switchable wavelength wise. I/E one to the other? Re . testing LEDS I use my multimeter set to diode testing Eezy Peezy.πŸ€“πŸ‘
    1 year ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    been look for one of these for 40 megs for some time. been looking into the arduino route but only find it for 2.4 :(
    1 year ago by timgarrod
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Stand easy CPO 😁 Neat gadgetπŸ‘ But I wanted a broadband device so I could also use it for some vintage 27 and 40MHz gear which I still use for my submarines, or just out of nostalgia. They still work so why chuck 'em out? is also good for checking the microwave oven. I let the Web do the 'running about'πŸ˜‰ In the meantime I found the little handheld analyser in the pic, covers 15 to 2700MHz. Cost a tad more than 10 bucks thoughπŸ€” Greetings from 'Up Over', Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Hi Admiral RNinMunich sir, I was going down the route of building a 2.4GHz Detector/Meter until I came across this: https://www.banggood.com/Lantian-Mini-High-Sensitive-2_4G-Frequency-Spectrograph-OLED-Displayer-Open-Source-For-RC-Drone-p-1247689.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN It works a treat and for that price it is not worth running around getting parts for a diode/capacitor/meter circuit. Cheers from DownUnda
    1 year ago by terrymiff
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Quite simple Martin, there's a chip inside the Tester which generates the same signal as comes out of a receiver. The pot on the top varies the signal just like the sticks on the TX do. Mr Karslake just didn't know how to do it. A 'stick-in-the-mud! Guess that was one customer who wasn't😑 Working models deserve lights like the originals. Even boats like your Hornet probably had at least a white stern lamp to prevent them gettin' rammed up the whatsit😲 Was only pullin' your chain a bit about the LED tester and RF detector anyway😁 Ciao, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Doug, I'll stick with your build blog. I still don't understand how you used the servo tester to replace TX and Rx, but don't worry, I'm happy to use the RC gear. As I did tonight in fact. Hooked the FlySky up to a
    futaba
    servo I'd put on the rudder for the Sea Hornet and it all worked a treat. First RC installation I've ever done! Made loads of statics, but no RCs before. And you will NEVER find lights on one of my models. Mike Karslake, life long professional modelmaker, to a customer..."Sir I make models, not bloody table lamps". Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Hi Martin, would have thought the name was self explanatory! πŸ˜‰ In the attached pic you can see my Robbe Servo Tester at the top. I used it to simulate the proportional signal from a receiver while testing your Taycol converter boards, not to power the motor.😲 Motor power came from the mains PSU in pic two, the battery eliminator circuit (BEC) in the ESC provided power to the tester. The tester provides the signal to drive servos, or in this case an ESC, and saves the faff of setting up TX and RX and fiddling with batteries when I want to test a circuit or function before building it into a boat. Cheers, Doug 😎 Oh, and by the way; when you get into lighting for your boats don't forget to buy an LED Tester as well 😁😁 You could also think about a simple RF Detector / Meter to check if your TX is actually transmitting 😁 Like I did with your TX using a home brew device - OR you could wait til I get around to publishing a Build Blog for the refined version I am making using a couple of RF diodes and a sensitive 300microamp meter 😊
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    What does one do with a servo tester? I know Doug used one to power the motors he was making pods for, for Gawd knows how. I have never heard of them. What do they test FOR? I'll soon need a special box just for all the test gear! Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Just for the record Sanwa Rx s are reversed too-----------Logically BTW Who makes the best type of crimping pliers for JST type connector terminals? All thoughts considered. Oh yes get a servo tester. Dirt cheap from about Β£2:50 on the likes of Bang Good, E Bay,Amazon. Really worth Having.πŸ‘
    1 year ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Gawd bless ya, peeps. Just what I needed to know. Many thanks, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Me too ColinπŸ‘ Hi Martin, My old Sanwa, and a few others from that era . 35 years ago, have the red and black wires swapped, i.e. black in the middle! DO NOT plug these into a modern set or you will burn out the servo and possibly the RX internal wiring as well😑 Yours with red in the middle are OK, just chop off the tab to fit it to modern mini/micro RXs. Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    Hi there, I have 30 year old
    futaba
    servos running on new 2.4ghz rc receivers with no problems. Cheers Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Old
    futaba
    servo wiring...
    The little tab on the plug is next to the white wire. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Place
    Help I'm stuck
    I've just bought a
    futaba
    6L transmitter. The plan was/ is to use a v tail mixer to enable to use both shafts independent but connected to the rudder in ahead mode. I have two e s c's. Will the controller do the job please.
    1 year ago by Nobby-Clark
    Blog
    Emerald - ''Round the Word'' ocean racing yacht.
    Purchased new in kit form, from Robbe. 1998. Specifications:- Overall length: 1380mm. Overall beam: 360 mm. Draught: 300 mm. Mast height: 1800 mm. Overall height: 2200 mm. Standard sail area: 80 square dm. Sail area with Genoa: 94 square dm. Total displacement: 12 kg. Ballast: 8 kg. Scale: 1:10 Control Robbe
    futaba
    F14 Marine transmitter / receiver. Channel 1 - Rudder servo. Channel 2 - Spare. Channel 3 - Genoa sail servo. Genoa switch module - fitted between the stick potentiometer and the transmitter channel 3 Socket. (Reverses the Genoa sail servo for Port or Starboard tack.) Channel 4 - Main sail servo. Channel 5 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - up position. Channel 6 - Auxiliary 3 position switch - down position. Receiver channel 5 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor out, to raise the Genoa Sail Clew. Receiver channel 6 - Mono Memory relay module. To drive the Blister motor in, to tighten the Genoa Sail Clew. Recently recovered from the back of the shed, where it has been in hibernation. Now I am retired and have some free time, it is under a review and refurbishment. New paint on the deck and upper hull (above the waterline). Solid state relay modules added, to replace the micro switches, operated from a cam on a servo (replacing analogue channel 2 with on/off channels 5 and 6). Pictures show the sea trials after the 10 year hibination. The Genoa Module had failed in the carbon potentiometers. No replacement available, so found a local electronics repairers, who changed the potentiometers for Β£10.00. The carrying cradle was designed to hold the sails, and secure the yacht while rigging at the waters edge. Also acts as a dry dock, while working inside the hull. When the repaired module is fitted, and the Genoa sail is operational, I will post detailed video of the Genoa sail winch and Blister motor and their operation while sailing. Genoa Sail Pictures added.
    1 year ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. it went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. it was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? it all works, perfectly, out of the box. it's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! it musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? it currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old
    futaba
    servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    In view of the age of the Tx has corrosion of terminals or wiring been considered. So called "black wire " corrosion can creep under insulation and cause breaks. I would open the case and check continuity of wires and everything else I could and clean the terminals. Could be that simple.Maybe spot of switch cleaner or just WD40 on switches and contacts. OR all over. it worked for my two
    futaba
    T6 x's One of which is the 5oth Rip Max anniversary one. They had been in a nice dry ,clean garage, for 8 yrs, but there was still a little corrosion present on the terminals I have yet to test the Rx's and servo's as a few days after obtaining the models I became unable to get int my workshop.I was given such a lot by this lovely widow and her lovely .daughter. They wanted nothing for all the kit and models they gave me and I felt very guilty as I had only taken a tenner with me.Mum wanted them just to a good home and wanted nothing for them. End result she said she would put the cash to a charity of her choice.There was so much stuff and models and unused kitsI could barely close the back of the car. Oh yes there was a boat amongst them. That lives in the house on it's display stand. it is a customs launch made from a plastic kit by all appearances nicely finished in Royal blue and white. Small brushed motor with two 7.4 Nimh batteries packs.One in either bilge for balance. in contrast all the electrics in this "
    futaba
    ,"3 Channel, were clean and all worked perfectly. A bit odd but the Tx was kept in it's box so maybe that made the difference? Sorry to hi-jack the thread but it was to illustrate the point about potential corrosion. Oops a pun😁 Apols mods😊
    1 year ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Intermittent radio problems
    I have a real mystery problem ! Occasionally, one of my crash tender models loses control for no apparent reason. It is running on 40mHz
    futaba
    system. This has been used for a number of years without any probs until recently. I have managed to reproduce the problem in the workshop just once. Effect is that using rudder channel, interferes with throttle channel such that when rudder servo operated the throttle goes completely haywire ! At the lake I have checked to make sure that no one else is on same freq. Most people run 2,4mHz anyway. When simulated in the workshop I have changed receivers transmitters and crystals and still had the problem. The next day problem had disappeared ! The other kit used in the boat are a
    futaba
    rudder servo and two 30amp Electronise esc's running in parallel. Have checked receiver voltage under load--- no problem with this either. Has anyone got any ideas ? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Rob
    1 year ago by robhenry
    Forum
    Servo choice for yacht
    Me again. I am finding the choice of servos mind-numbingly huge. I feel I should have a new steering servo for Vanity. I have a lot of other servos kicking around and I can only assume they work on a modern Orange Rx, but I'm thinking even a tight wad like me can justify a new servo. I would like it to be a bit lower than the
    futaba
    I currently have out as it has to operate below the bottom of the winch drum and take two Bowden cables to the rudder as the rudder shaft is steeply raked, so only cable operation will do. Any suggestion welcome. I don't need speed or even especially accuracy, although reliability would be nice. 4.8volts too please. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) MTB741 Fairmile D
    1/24 Scale. Scratchbuilt from John Lambert Drgs & photos. it took 3.5 years. Plywood bulkheads, pine stringers & balsawood planking, then fibreglassed. Superstructure balsawood. Guns scratchbuilt from tinplate and brass. There are 2 motors and drive trains powered by 2 x 9cell NiMH D cells x 9Ah. 6 pdr guns rotate. 20mm oerlikon rotates and elevates. Radio is
    futaba
    2.4 GHz (Motor: Graupner 700BB 12V) (ESC: MTroniks 30A Tio x 2) (9/10)
    2 years ago by reilly4


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