Blog

Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug

Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, , motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew , drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

Anteo 2 Tug

Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about brushless motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.

5 years ago by Dick

Forum

Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50

Ahoy Mateys, U50 under construction. its got twin contra rotating props. I made the chassis for the and motor from an old gas fire that some kind person dumped at the end of my street.I don't mind anything metal but I can do without the mattresses! Cheers.

5 years ago by mactin

Blog

PS Iona - Motors

So to power the tug I needed some sort of motor arrangement, and I wanted 2 of them so I could drive the paddles independently, using 2 ESCs / batteries. The answer came in the form of 1:16 scale model tank motors/es. I managed to find a couple on a well known selling platform... someone was upgrading their tank to metal gears and had 2 for sale. The gearing got the speed of the output shaft down to almost sensible, so I just needed to reduce it and connect the output to the paddle shafts... using Meccano gears & chains of course. This works well and allows scale speed running of the paddles up to much faster than scale speed!(if it's windy) Oh, just to mention the motor frames were mounted with grommets to blocks of wood to provide some suspension, and be removable if necessary.🤓

5 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Blog

Day Two Springer

Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, , motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew , drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Directory

(Other) Vosper

I always liked the sound of a fourstroke engine so I thought I would replace the brushless motor in this boat with an aircraft Os 40fs which I converted with a water cooling jacket that I turned up on my lathe. I also made a reverse with a clutch, the is operated by a servo and works well, I also fitted a water pump so could still cool the engine while ticking over stationary, boat has been weathered and is fitted with lights and a searchlight that swivels around operated by another servo, there is also a cooling fan above the engine just to help keep things cool. (Motor: Os 40 fourstroke) (10/10)

6 years ago by Biscuit

Forum

Brushless motors (again)

depending upon the type of motor cooling it can be a problem. Most brushless motors are out runners so the case rotates! in runners are usually for higher speed applications (or driving a ). if you have an idea as to the size of IC engine the boat was intended to have then this list may be a help .049 or .051 = 100 watts 0.10 = 200 watts 0.15 = 300 watts 0.25 = 500 watts 0.32 = 640 watts 0.40 = 800 watts 0.45 = 900 watts 0.51 = 1020 watts 0.61 = 1220 watts 0.75 = 1500 watts 0.91 = 1820 watts Since Watts are Volts * Amps ( I know this is not accurate for a reactive load like an electric motor but its a rule of thumb) This gives you a ball park next point is the KV ( revs per volt) of a motor. The higher the KV the smaller the prop. Finally buy a Watt meter they are not expensive and give you a chance to " fine tune" a setup. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FT08-RC-150A-Hight-Precision-Watt-Meter-and-Power-Analyzer-w-Backlight-LCD-U3F1/223101148808?epid=23023179441&hash=item33f1dd5e88:g:LYAAAOSwV3pba1JA:rk:11:pf:0 Car ESCs ( usually) have a reverse function while the airplane versions do not. They are generally cheaper than boat specific ESCs.

6 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Anteo 2 Tug

Hi Dick, I have a few tugs and the largest at 49" uses a geared 540 running from a 12v 7ah sla battery giving a good 90mins running time. This model weighs in at 15 kilos ready to sail. I also have a caldercraft model tug Joffre. Which is about 30" long and runs using a 6v monoperm motor and . 6v 4.5ah sla battery giving about 1 hour run time. Weight is 5kilos ready to sail. Hope this helps. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Hi Colin, re your post in the scale speed thread- "I've got spare Viper marine 25 amp. So hopefully that will do. Also would you recommend a reduction box to give a fair scale speed as I don't want to overwork the motor." The Viper will be fine, I'll probably be using a little Viper Marine 10 on my Taycol Target in the fish cutter. Re : I doubt one is necessary. I would try to adjust the top speed more with the prop, mainly the pitch probably. The Supermarine is not particularly hi-revving, 4000 or so off load? if you reduce that your Sea Commander may behave more like a tug I suspect If you do decide to go that way PLEASE don't ask me to make it😁, I'm having enough trouble with the 1to1 gearing for my fish cutter😲 Good luck with bathroom and OP. Fingers crossed for you that the works DO start in 6 weeks (the bathroom I mean!) 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors

Hi I have just read your post about your tug, I am one of those who modified mine to two new motors:- A. Because the original gear box nylon pinion gears split and there was no way that one could get them to fix securely back on to the motor shaft, plus the fact that when initially refitted they would no longer mesh and if the motors stopped at the wrong point they would not restart they just jammed. B. I wanted to make the tug more manoeuvrable so fitted separate speed controllers to each motor enabling me to run one motor forward and one in reverse this with suitable rudder positioning allows the tug to rotate on its axis with very little forward or reverse motion. C. I was able to use a 6v 4Ah Gel type battery which gives a much greater runtime. As to the old I think that because the gears were split it was disposed of. Somewhere in my harbour here there should be some photo’s of the conversion. I am now using speed 300 motors with a 2.5:1 reduction position much further forward in the hull an I made extension shafts to the original fitted ones, and it all works. Hope this helps and perhaps explained the need to change the original setup. Graham

6 years ago by jelley_baby

Forum

Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors

Hello: I have a Hobby Engine “premium” 2.4GHz “Richardson” tug. This boat is identical mechanically to the “Southampton” tug. I’ve read many posts on the forum having to do with replacing the factory-installed motor/ unit with two separate motors mounted side by side. Personally I’m happy with the factory drive setup; it’s quite powerful & it runs smoothly. The reduction gearing is a bit noisy, but my boat is new & will likely quiet down with use. I have two requests for those who have removed the factory drive unit & replaced it with separate motors: 1. If you’ve still got your factory drive unit & have taken it apart out of curiosity, if possible will you please post photos of the internal parts? I’m interested in seeing what’s inside the housing & how the gearing is set up. 2. Along the same vein, I’d like to acquire a spare factory drive to have on hand, just in case. If you have a complete, working drive unit that you’d consider offering for sale, please send a PM to me & let me know what you would want for a price. Thanks very much. Pete

6 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

Launch ELAINE,

Bon chance mon ami! Your the man for that job, I never got beyond a little Enya and a COX 047 Glow job. Still have 'em somewhere. Was thinking of using the spare Glo plugs as ignition for firing guns or launching depth-charges on my destroyer! A little saltpetre, charcoal, eye of newt, wing of bat, 2V on the glo plug and ..... 😁 bye bye destroyer probably😲 Cheers, Doug 😎 Now back to me cutter , ya know I think it might actually work!!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Still Stripping......With Care!

Evenin' Neville, I told you you'd get the hang of it pretty quick. (It was either that or you'd burn the house down😲)😁 Seriously; I'm proud of you👍 You had the guts to give it a go and you're learning fast 👍 Hat off Sir! A few observations; (Colin might also have some at this point, had a very nice chat with him on the phone this afternoon - but that's another Encyclopedia Britannica!) #1 if the paint scraps are smoking the gun is too hot or too close, or moving too slow. Wind it down to 350 and see how that goes. Back up to ~400 if seems necessary. #2 Bow cracks; I see a bodge up there where someone couldn't bend the skin properly or, benefit of the doubt (In dubio pro reo!), maybe it was collision damage. Whatever; filler in a thin crack will always vibrate out again sometime😡 Try to get at the inside and seal it with two layers of fibreglass tissue well soaked in resin, EzeKote is what I used. Wait about 10 minutes before applying second layer. Then it should bond well with the first. When that has set (ca 20 - 30 minutes) then you can apply some fine filler from the outside. When set sand smooth and seal the whole hull outside with two layers of FG tissue. Sand smooth and if any bare wood appears apply wood sealer or EzeKote thinned with 10% warm water. Don't overdo the water or it takes yonks to dry and set - Yes, it happened to me🤔 Then continue with priming / finishing as described above; or look in my Sea Scout 'Jessica' blog for the fine details. The beauty of using EzeKote for all this is that you can get a whole hull done inside and out in one day and no mixing ratios to cock up😊👍 If it's any consolation to you; when I did all this on my fish cutter and PTB loads of filler went soft and fell out as well, and the 'goo' holding the prop shafts in my PTB as well. No sweat as I wanted to realign the shafts anyway! TIP: I removed all shafts rudders and any other protrusions in the way so there were no 'twiddly' bits left to make things awkward. Leaving the odd patch of sanded paint which is still firmly fixed to the wood is OK; as long as you can't feel a 'bump' with your finger tips and you are going to seal it with resin and primer anyway. Then it can't react with the new paint. Here endeth the 3039th epistle from Admiral Doug. Will all dissenters, contradictors and other lobbyists and Trump lawyers please queue up at the Spanish inquisition Office next door. Take a number, we'll grill you in turn 😁😁 How do you like your stake? Cheers All, Happy building and renovating, Doug 😎 Now back to me fish cutter , mechanical gubbinses are not really my strength🤔 HAMMER, have you got a minute please!? (Viewing / reading tip; click on the thread title, then you can read the the structured version in paragraphs as I wrote it 😉)

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Launch ELAINE,

Thanks Doug, I sort of gathered this principle but had no idea how to control it. There are two motors connected via reduction gears and levers to move the two parts into the various nozzle shapes for the thrust and the whole thing rotates via one of the motors also with reduction . The pictures are the best I could do with it still in the boat as I have not figured out how to remove it without damage yet.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...

Aha, I assumed it was an airyplane motor. I had an Ugly Stick once, given to me with a speed 400 motor and a with a bent shaft. So the motor came on board as a spare and the was dumped, but I stopped doing aircraft and so gave the Ugly Stik back to its reluctant owner. There's a whole range of Ugly Stik type things, all ugly and odd looking but apparently they fly very well. Looks like your photo shows a brushed 380 type motor with gearing too. Not sure about the 62mm length! it's way shorter than that. Has, as you can see, a flange mount. There's no mount for the blue one. The magnetism is amazing. I can hardly turn the shaft with fingers. So, do you reckon the motors would work in a boat? Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

ESC info...

Hi Martin, Scroll further down in the description and the How and Why of the programming is explained. Basically; reverseable ESCs are generally factory set for the truckers,car racing and buggy boys! That means that before you can go from forwards to reverse, or vice versa, the ESC commands the motor to stop, this is to protect the landlubbers es😉 it's irritating for boat drivers to have to shove the stick twice each time you want to reverse the motor, makes precise control more difficult. So for boats you need to switch off this function. Programming also means teaching the ESC the Max forward, Stop and Max reverse throttle stick positions. Looks like a decent deal to me👍 A programming card isn't essential, you CAN use the TX and listen carefully to the 'Beeps', but the card is much easier. More 'lecktrickery' 😁😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi Pete, since you are in the US try here, the OTHER RS😉:- https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?findify_limit=24&findify_q=wrapping%20wire Personally I prefer stranded wire as it is more flexible and less prone to break if you often have to remove and remake connections, like when you take the cabin off! it's slightly thicker so it's more a question of 'Will it fit?' https://www.radioshack.com/products/22-gauge-hookup-wire-3-pack-25-feet-red-black-green Some model shops have (or used to!) a really thin stranded wire, as used for tiny 'rice grain' bulbs'. 2nd question: I assume your tug has an 800mAh NiMh battery like mine did. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know the new models. I propose to change mine for a 2200mAh NiMh. Can't use LiPo cos the Brushed ESC isn't LiPo safe; i.e. with built in cut off if the battery falls to 3.0V per cell - lowest safe LiPo discharge voltage. 3rd Question - changing motors; I've often wondered that!😲 Up to now I don't see any reason to. Maybe those guys want to enter Towing Competitions!? I don't. Also some folks are just not happy unless they are tinkering and 'improving' 😉 I might try to quieten the down a bit though 🤔 Teflon grease perhaps!? Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

54 year old Crash Tender

Nice One Cyril😉👍 Too'ot 'ere as well, so stayed in and made the propshaft and tooob for the fish cutter. Just tap drilled the prop to take a 3mm thread. Now to figure out the frames 😲 Everyone seems to be going Mast Crazy tonight so I guess I'd better make one for the Sea Scout 🤔 The cutter need a lot of complicated wooden bits, so that can wait till I've figured out how it's all supposed to work 😲 Transistors an' diodes an' such are so much easier 😉 Carry on Sarn't Major, 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mini Olympus

Thanks Doug ,Will do. Thanks for your help Sid

6 years ago by sidley70

Forum

Mini Olympus

I am still trying to find a Mini Olympus for one of my models. The old one is faulty. Has anyone got one in their spare parts box that they would like to sell. Sid

6 years ago by sidley70

Forum

Mini Olympus

Mornin' Donnie, at least it is here on our side of the 'pond', Many thanks for the appreciation 👍 It's sort of an extension of my profession (in miniature) into my retirement. I used to design / develop radio equipment and later full communication systems. The last 32 years specialising in COMMS for naval ships. I would do the initial system design to the navy operational requirements and then negotiate the refinements and inevitable upgrades and changes with the navy and/or shipbuilder. Sometimes dragging them up to date in the process 😉 Wish I was in Canada too! I designed the COMMS refit for the RCN MCMVs (Mine Counter Measures Vessels) several years ago. Also worked in Newfoundland with Provincial Airways Engineering on the mini AWACS planes they were converting for UAE. Enjoyed both projects and the great people I worked with very much. I still do my research the same way as then; if I don't know how something works, I find out double quick! Only way to stay ahead of the end user - and the competition 😉 Very glad you are finding the site useful 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mini Olympus

Maybe they don't make that precise one any more, but they have a vast range so check out the specs for an equivalent, or very near to.👍 Good luck, 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mini Olympus

Doug,I have been following your posts.I have learned quite a lot from them.Too bad you are not here in Canada.I'm always trying to get more people to access the model boat website to gain more info on problems they may have.Also to see what other modellers are achieving.Keep up the good work,it is very much appreciated.

6 years ago by Donnieboy

Forum

Mini Olympus

Hi Doug, Yes ,I have tried there . They do not make them anymore. My only chance is that someone may have one that they have discarded. Sid

6 years ago by sidley70

Forum

Mini Olympus

Have you asked here? https://www.mfacomodrills.com/es/es.html MFA made it in the first place. Happy hunting. Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

getting a bit slow?...

Martin, maybe you should read back what you wrote before you hit the 'Post' button? " over-pensioned old fools who spend a fortune on some very average kit and another on wheels and , motor, building, painting, lining, weathering, blah, blah and finally bragging about on forums. Kit snobbery is not only annoying, but to a scratchbuilder like me it is utterly stupid and pointless." Nobody here to my knowledge has bragged about the cost of their kits. Wilfully misunderstood?? It's not necessarily what you say but the way that you say it. I agree with much of 'where you are coming from' but not how you express it sometimes. Comes over as a bit of a tirade. Apropos Airfix: I recently succumbed to a 1/24th scale Mosquito, my Dad's second favourite plane to work on and fly in, after the Spitfire. Man is that kit huge! Which Lightning do you have? the P38 or English Electric? I built both years ago, but only 1/72, they didn't come bigger in those days. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

getting a bit slow?...

Winter used to be model railways and slot cars. Now just slot cars and small scale static boats, 1/48th scale. I always promised myself a collection of 1/4"-the foot inshore craft. I really can't be doing with the over-pensioned old fools who spend a fortune on some very average kit and another on wheels and , motor, building, painting, lining, weathering, blah, blah and finally bragging about on forums. Kit snobbery is not only annoying, but to a scratchbuilder like me it is utterly stupid and pointless. And as a model railway club near me now charges 100 quid to join and still only turns out a glorified toy train set, it is, alas, no longer a hobby for me. We have a sign on our wall that says, "The more I learn of people, the more I love my dogs". QED. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Bismarck paint scheme (for Rookysailor ;-)

Ready with the search party Doug🤓 will hold off for one week..... the decaperm is the one with , going for £50 to £60 on Ebay at the moment, bought the card model for my old age!!! not my scene really, thought at that price would be able to double it when selling it.😉 Yes! rather silly about the swastikas when you can put the rising sun on ships flags and red sun on planes, both Germany and Austria are worse than the rest of the world regarding the Hakenkreuz, it has it's beginnings in Sanskrit many years ago so nothing new there😁 regards, Peter

6 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

Bismarck paint scheme (for Rookysailor ;-)

Go for it Peter, 👍 Glad the pics were useful, even if some seem contradictory😲. I think you are probably right to go without the stripes, somehow they seem to have disappeared between Oslo and the Denmark Straight!? Must check what Revell recommend in my kit. if I don't report back within a week please send a search party / rescue team to my cellar 😁 Ten quid for 6V Decaperm!! Shucks, I have one with , took it out of my Sea Scout, had hoped it was worth a bit more 🤔 1/200 card model!! - You're a better man than I Gungadin!! Sounds like a sticky wicket to me.😁 Whatever floats your boat, cheers Doug 😎 PS: I guess you'll be putting the Swastikas on. I can't, could get arrested if I do 🤔 they're not included in the Revell kit.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Graupner Elke HF 408

Hi Allen I did wonder if it was an ex flyer type as it had the . The markings can help but not possibly in this case. The other major supplier was Johnson but I can't find your TD224. I suspect this will be a high current fast rev motor probably 12v max. To work with your model I think you will be well advised to follow Doug's suggestion and fit a 6v battery. If you can see the windings inside the motor case and they are thick and few then it is a fast and high current motor. The prop looks like a Graupner and is fine pitch and similar models in my club have a nice brass prop of fairly coarse pitch to give a good slow scale speed. The will allow you to fit a brass prop of similar dimensions to yours. Initially I agree with Doug though, just pop it in the water and see how it performs. With your luck you will probably source a suitable prop from the car boot sales! Finally As the motor is old it could have shorted windings, in which case it's going to get hot. if you have a good multimeter you can check for low resistance between the case and one of the motor connectors. Use the highest Ohms setting you have and rotate the motor shaft a full revolution, repeat with progressively lower Ohms settings. You should have good insulation between the windings and the case, if you are getting any ohm readings chances are there are shorted windings on the armature and the motor is terminal.

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

34'' Crash Tender - prop / rudder type

Hi peter, do you want a brass 3 blade prop for cosmetic reasons, if so they do look nice. I did extensive testing with my 3 foot fireboat using brushed, then brushless motors, and then prop testing. I was using eagle tree data logging for watts, amps, gps speed etc. The plastic two blade cheap as chips props actually produce similar readings to the more expensive brass 3 blades. Personally, as you are at the "guess work" stage, just use the plastic two blade ones, but use "x" pitch, standard wont give you the speed. Get a few sizes, 30, 35 40 mm and test. When you have the optimum set up you can then go to the expense of the brass prop. I sent Simon Higgins (ex prop shop) my readings and he made a specific prop for my boat, its a 35mm cleaver 3 blade. He has his own company now but I've forgotten what it is! He was at Blackpool last year so someone might have the list of traders. His props are balanced and one piece, very nice. I also experimented with a belt driven . The set up I have at the minute is this motor https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-t600-brushless-outrunner-for-600-heli-880kv.html overkill really! but my 3 footer is an original very heavy aerokits boat.

6 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Happy Hunter

hi -the hull only had these two motors and es in .I have greased the es cleaned the motors and soldered the wires on .The casings of the motors were rusty and have just been painted with a rust killer type paint..There is a bow thruster fitted with no motor but this locks up after about half a turn of the drive shaft -looks like I will need to replace this.I have bought 2 Chinese speed controllers with max current rating of 250amps ( waterproof type) I have used these before and seem ok but my experience is limited..The intention was to drive the motors separately on 2 channels

6 years ago by spitfiresooty

Response

Happy hunter

The motor units are Robbe EF76 with fitted es, rated at 6 - 8volts, superb units and very reliable, did you strip and clean the es as well???? were the photos taken before you cleaned the motors??? The battery space looks to have been fitted with 4 x 6v 4ah batteries, probably giving 6v drive power, might have been 12v. is there an ESC fitted?? that would give us the final key, apart from the red and black wire in the 4th photo is there any other wiring??? Mark

6 years ago by jarvo

Media

Happy hunter

these are the motors and es in the boat .They look in rough condition but after cleaning ,greasing etc run ok .The sapce that has been used for the battery seems to havebeen divided int o4 for some reason.I am trying decide what battery I need for this

6 years ago by spitfiresooty

Forum

happy Hunter

work on renovating my Happy hunter is progressing but I need to decide on the battery and make location for it in the hull so that I can get the right amount of ballast in before proceeding any further .The question is what battery to use .The Hull has 2 motors fitted with es ,I think the motors are 540,s but there are no markings on them.I am thinking a 12volt SLA battery but would welcome some advice

7 years ago by spitfiresooty

Response

Electronics Down Below (5)

Superb job, just remember the clearance under the rear deck hatch, the lock stick's down a way, also make a small bulkhead just behind the , so the battery does not rub on the battery base, it does move slightly and can touch the motor spindles. Mark

7 years ago by jarvo

Forum

rotating radars off mast

Hi Seafarer, I have a few ships with rotating radars I have a few of these motors per the link below. They rotate quite well with one cell (1.4 volts) Gear Motor 3 - 224:1 90 Degree Shaft https://solarbotics.com/product/gm3/ I also have some of these, but they require a bit more vertical space. MFA 951 Series Motor and 298:1 6volt (from CMB in the UK). I run these on 3 volts. Both are quite small. I have also used old servos in a couple of places.

7 years ago by reilly4

Response

RSS P71 Sovereignty

Turned our real nice👍 Look forward to the gun flashes 😉 (BTW: your radar is stuck! but then those old es had a habit of jamming😉)

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Motor problem

before you fit a water cooling system try a smaller prop. You need to think of the in a car. Too big a prop can be looked at as being like trying to drive off in top gear! A smaller prop will allow any given motor to spin faster and strange as it may seem use LESS not more current. if you keep the drawn current down to the limits set by the motor constructor then its probable you will need no extra cooling. if the boat moves faster than you want use the throttle its what its for. Throttling down also extends battery life. The air intakes on boats like this were intended for IC engines and they NEED air to work.

7 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

correct size of wiring

I apologise if this has already been covered here but I am now at the point of installing the motor in my new model. The motor is a Graupner speed 600, and the specs are : Nominal voltage 8.4 V Operating voltage range 4.8-9,6 V No-load rpm 15500 No-load current drain 1.8 A Current drain at max. efficiency 11 A Current drain when stalled 70 A Max. efficiency without 75 % If I use 8.4 volts what size wiring do I need? Do I need to cater for the 70A current or the 11A current, or somewhere in between, with a fuse? Sorry to be a bit dim on this but I am confused (with most things these days!) Chris

7 years ago by octman

Forum

What paint type

Hi Scotty, motor wise i would say a 600 size with to bring the revs down and the torque up, old style tugs had large props, so i would think 60-70mm if that fits into the hull. MFA do belt drives and the motor etc, Mark

7 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

Neville, toilet rolls, problem, especially if you have a cat!!!. 3 screws at the stern, 1 central 2 at the corners under bollards, leaver up with thin screwdriver. 1 each side of the rear deck hatch. 1 each side opposite the cabin rear hold down bollards screw fitted in inboard side of each one. 1 each side rear of the forward hatch. 1 each side forward hatch, again hidden by bollard screw from side. 3 in the bow area. PS all screws in the deck are under small plastic plugs, be gentle with them as you want to put them back to seal the deck again. You should have 14 screws now, the deck is sealed with a gasket, 'O' ring, and what seems like Vaseline, and splits at the rubbing strip just behind the tyre fenders, might need a bit of a pull, going round the hull as you go. Once the deck is off, it is all in front of you. Looking down into the hull, there is a black battery plate, held down with 4 screws, the receiver and the on/off switch. I have kept the plate, but cutaway the dividing 'walls' was needed, for the new receiver etc to fit. It is not big enough for the buggy type battery, so i glued a thin platform on top for the battery to sit on. Battery is held with self adhesive velcro pads to keep it in place. 'Central hull' is the motors and , follow the long Red and Black wires back to the receiver and cut them as close to the receiver as you can, ready to wire into the ESC, i used a 'chocolate' block, 10ah. Stearn is the servo and steering linkage, nothing needed here just a smear of grease to lubricate. A couple of drops of oil on the ends of the propshaft won't go amiss. 'Battery position', i have mine on the radio plate, but with care and a little trimming you can fit it across the hull, above the propshafts, or with care between the propshafts, fore and aft. Make sure there is a side plate fitted to stop the battery fouling the rudder servo. Hope this is clear, don't force the deck be gentle Mark

7 years ago by jarvo

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Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

Hi Doug, your LiPo pack will fit with room to spare between the prop shafts, a 7.2 NiMh pack just fits up to the , clearing the rear hatch lock is a problem, removed the underside of the catch and fitted a turnbuckle to hold the hatch closed. Take care removing the moulded plastic trays, they form part of the hull strength, only cut till you have clearance, not right down to the inner hull, (guess how i found out!!!) Mark

7 years ago by jarvo

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Crash Tender Shaft Tube Poistion

that angle is way better, give yourself a bit of room for a bigger prop, say your 40mm, just incase. For reference, here is my original set up with a brushed 700 motor, direct drive, it ran hot! then I used a , it ran cooller, but the boat was getting very heavy by now. Currently its a brushless direct drive, its been ignored for a few years now, I must get it out and use it again. its an original Aerokits, built in 1963 by my Uncle as a straight runner ic, the ended up in my parents attic for 30 years

7 years ago by pmdevlin

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What motor have I got?

Not Quite Doug but I have a box full of motors from various sources. Mostly use Brushless nowadays as I suspect many do, but there is nothing wrong with the brushed motors and I do have many boats that run flawlessly on brushed, and in my opinion are more controllable, certainly for scale models. I once worked for a firm that stripped old computers and acquired several beautiful 24v brushed motors some with precision es. Average current draw is less than 100 Mamps. Needless to say they are German made but I have some earlier US made motors again from mainframe computers that run from 1.5 v to 24v. The tork is so great that at 12v you can't stall the motor with your fingers, but you will burn them! We used them in model tugs with 2" props. Happy days Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

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Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat

Built in 1981 and the cabin superstructure refurbished a couple of years ago. The original motors are 2 decaperms that are getting very hot now. Brushes changed in one of them which now seems to be lazy. It is now time to change these for a more modern type of motor. Because of the distanse from the hull to the middle of the shaft a 850 straight shaft to propeller shaft will not fit. I've decided to fit 2 bearing blocks to the underside of the mount and fix a pulley to the prop shaft. The decaperms where 2.75:1. What would be the best ratio for my new setup? olly49

7 years ago by olly49

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Working radar

Hmm! Up to you - but I believe that with a motor + length of ~ 1.25" plus room for cable connections dat woin't woik! 😭 So, it's now past 1am here in Munich so Gute Nacht, Good Night, Buenos Noches! 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

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Working radar

Even 31000 rpm depending on model and voltage! And without !!! BUT, if you choose the right one, with gear ratio 699.55 to 1 then you can get it down to 14 rpm or less. 😊 Moral: read the whole sheet! 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

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Oil Sump for ?

Hi inkoust I think we have already discounted an oil bath. Sorry but grease should never be used in any unless it is completely enclosed as any dirt or grit that gets into the grease will destroy both the bearings and gears. A light oiling before each sail will provide all the lubrication required. Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

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Oil Sump for ?

Hello all, in the pursuit of trying something to make my ship sail at a more realistic speed I've purchased a 3:1 gear box. This came in the post yesterday and its size is perfect for the slender lines of my ship (Build Blog HMS Curzon) I was now wondering if I need to construct an oil sump for this gear box? it's brass and Aluminium construction. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks Dave

7 years ago by Pav403