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LATEST SMOKER EXPERIMENTS, REDUCING SIZE & NEW BITS
Picked up some bits today from the vape shop and managed to score a complete battery module (with good 1s LiPo) and a vape tank base (to screw the coil/element into and that into battery base) for free from their spare bits collection. I bought a 3 pack of coils to play with also. The battery module even has a rotary wattage selector which works (for more or less smoke or different wattage coils) even has a timeout control and LEDs which all work.
I managed to get it apart after a bit of experimenting (found the ends were splined and pressed into the alloy tube body)- nothing a small screwdriver and
could't change😁 I modified the wiring to accept Deans type plugs for future use, as the unit was solid wired and no use in that form. As the smoke comes out the air inlet using my method (model x method), the whole coil and vent must be inside a sealed tube, air fed into the mouth piece (sticking out of the tank) and forced down the tank and out the exhaust outlet/s (the tank will be stuffed with cotton wool around the coil with a clearance left for the smoke to escape.) This version might have to be totally enclosed and air fed in through a tube, as there is no mouthpiece.
I think I'll be able to get the size down to around 40x40 and work horizontally which is sort of what I'm aiming for. The timeout electrics on the unit aren't really necessary and the micro button for activation would require a servo arm to operate it (maybe holding right stick on-center off) but the timeout would be nice to incorporate in the system somehow for 'startup smoke', I wouldn't even need another battery as this one works real well and still putting out 4V (think the unit was replaced because the micro button press cover was broken,- nothing else wrong). It will be interesting to see how this version will work.
After this will be further tests using pre-wound coils in similar containers. I can sense Martin getting excited already😂 Young guy running the vape shop was really interested in what we are doing with the coils, and was very helpful (also flies quads so he's in the R/C hobby area which helps)
2 months ago by jbkiwi
Assembly of the Shafts and Drill the Boss!
The Smit Nederland comes with shafts.
They are all brass!
Don't know how they will perform!
The Shaft are easy to assemble.
You just have to.
Put the bearing on the shaft sleeves!
It helps to use a
I found that after I assembled them.
The shafts wouldn't go in to the bearings.
So, had to drill the bearing a bit!
But after doing so the shafts.
Went on and could spin freely!
With just a bit of tension!
Next, I had to drill the bosses.
I made a small template.
Circle with a divider!
Used this to find the center of the boss!
Then drilled the boss using 1mm drill.
Then increased to 6mm for the shafts to go though the Bosses!
Having found the center of the Boss and the Center of the Kort Nozzle support.
I then drew a line from the Boss to the Kort Nozzle support.
This line will be used to center the Shaft Support!
3 months ago by figtree7nts
Graupner Hertha Jeep
Okay, so I’ve just finished the Graupner Taucher Wulf, and I’m one of those modelers that likes to have the workbench..ahh..working. Now, the Wulf was a bit of a pain in the rump to build, mainly because the instructions were almost non existent. There were pictures, mind you, lots of pictures, some even contradicted each other..but precious little info, measurements, that sort of thing. Anyway, I swore up and down that I would never build another modern Graupner boat again. I have a small stash of kits and a couple of boats to restore..nope, not doing it.
Then, that little voice in my head returned..same voice that tells me it’s okay to drop the
at a red light because that voice didn’t see the police cruiser in the parking lot..same voice that says “you’re not THAT full, one more slice of pizza wont kill you”. That voice. The one that said..”Look! The little Hertha Jeep is on sale! You’ve already seen the worst with the Taucher, go ahead and buy it. You KNOW what your getting into this time...ahhhhahahahahaha!”
So theres a Hertha Jeep on my bench. And, again, lots of pics, a little more info this time, some things that make me scratch my head and some that make sense. The hull is blow molded..I think it’s ABS but it just looks different from any plastic I’ve ever seen. Nicely made though. The kit parts and fittings looked good, so I dove in.
I decided that this time, I was going to build everything as sub assemblies and make sure everything fits to my satisfaction before I build myself into a corner like I did with the Wulf. The first thing I started was the cabin. It’s built from some very thin laser or machine cut abs. Much thinner than the Wulfs pilothouse. The cabin roof is molded in either resin or plastic and primered, and I used that and the hull to jig up the cabin. Everything fit okay until I got to the forward windscreen. The oblique angles and the way the darn thing fit had me stumped. Then I trimmed it, which was a mistake. However, it started to look decent when I realized that some of the ca had dribbled down and glued the bottom edge of the windscreen to the hull. !!@&&%!!!!
I had to break the bottom edge of the windscreen to get it loose from the hull. However, I was able to fix the damage with some scrap plastic and a little “modelers bondo” (Tamiya plastic filler). This was a rookie mistake, I was thinking of protecting the hull with wax paper, but I didn’t heed THAT voice, and got burned in the process. Lesson learned.
Once the cabin was done, I built the insert that goes into the aft part of the hull. I don’t have pics of that yet but I’ll post them soon.
5 months ago by Cashrc
Re: Dang it!!!!!
Hi Cash, a good way to straighten a shaft to a reasonable degree (If you haven't done this already) is to find a flat surface (such as a bench top etc) place a torch or strong light at the back and roll the shaft on the bench. Look where the light shines through underneath and hold the shaft in that position. Place the shaft on a flat piece of hard wood and tap along the high spot gently with a plastic
(or similar a few times (not just at one point, - and don't use a steel
Try rolling again in the same spot on your bench and check for light, and keep repeating as often as necessary. It might take a while and a bit of chasing, but it's a lot more gentle than putting it in a vice, and you won't over bend it if you are careful. Needs patience!
4 months ago by jbkiwi
looking for plans
Roves are like washers only slightly domed. Copper nails are square sectioned. They were knocked through the two planks (or whatever), the rove put over the nail on the inside, the nail trimmed to about 1/8 inch and then tapped with the ball of a small
until it was flattened onto the rove, tightening it up and holding it on. The apprentice would be underneath the boat holding a lump of metal with a round protrusion, called a dolly, against the head of the nail so that it would not be knocked out by the work going on inside. There would be a nail about every four inches along the length of the plank.
Hope that's understandable.
5 months ago by Nerys
It's an ill wind ... Nerys😉
More power to Alice's cordless screwdriver and/or tack
Supplement to Night Orders:
Lt. Cmdr Colin has succumbed to an attack of Sleeping Sickness🤔
Thus Sub Lt. Dodgy is now OOD.
5 months ago by RNinMunich
Re: HELP needed on a hull.
That is excellent, hidden hatches.
I like it, well done.
5 months ago by Martin555
Nice sized shed Nerys, - everything is relevant I think, as that's how we get to know about one another in between spurts of building. If everything was in an obscure posting area, probably no one would see it. People can always chip in at any time and get feedback on the current subject and we'll be away again with comments until we run out of steam. BTW Alice must be real handy with a
5 months ago by jbkiwi
Casting a lead bulb keel
Your experiences with mould-making make for interesting reading. I have never used plaster for casting lead but I do have extensive knowledge of using surgical plaster to make female moulds for vac-forming polystyrene sheet. My moulds are far smaller than yours but I have found that they MUST be thoroughly dry or you have problems. As a result I dry moulds for up to a week on top of a radiator or the hot water tank. I test it by tapping with a small
. If I get a ceramic 'clink' like hitting a modern house brick, then it is good to go. With the sort of volume you have there, the drying could take much longer.
6 months ago by wunwinglo
Re: Suction hose
Very nice job and clever idea. Might I suggest an easier way of winding a spring, ( for those who have no idea how to - this coming from a past job as a spring maker).
Start by selecting your mandrel ( go down in size from the size you want to end up with) as the coils will grow as you release tension (bit of trial and error depending whether you are using hard or soft wire).
Make a simple tool as shown in the pic (around 300mm x40mm x 8mm - mandrel hole is not too important but a loose fit. Forming pin hole (bottom of which is just above mandrel hole and around 40-50mm back) should be tight press (or
) fit and welded on the back side.
A deep groove is filed into the under side of the pin to take the wire. Bit of trial and error here to get the best pin position,- but once correct you will have it for life.
This tool is slid over the mandrel (pin towards chuck) A right angle is bent in the wire leaving around a 150mm leg which is inserted in the chuck between the mandrel and the jaws (not clamped) leaving the stock length towards you (or from a coil on a turn table or pin) .
You then hook the wire under the forming pin. and with the lathe in slow,- 200 rpm is a good start (when you get used to it, probably 500 rpm +) and holding the wire tight against the handle (handle straight out) start winding.
If you want tight coils move handle slightly towards the chuck and vice versa. You will find that you get quite good at 'pitching' the coils accurately with practice -ie closed-then open- then closed for normal compression springs and all closed for tension springs).
Stop when you have wound your spring, move tail-stock back and slide spring and tool off mandrel (no need to undo anything, just cut leg and excess wire off to suit .
There is another tool for forming spring eyes you can make also. If anyone wants to know I'll do a drawing.
Just keep your eye on the stock end of the wire so you don't get a nasty surprise !
Best tail-stock would be a plain tube (we just used a 100mm piece of angle iron on an adjustable leg).
If you had a decent horizontally mounted drill you could make your own spring lathe for small springs. If you are using high tensile wire you will have to adjust your mandrel size as when you heat your spring to temper it, it will reduce in diameter (ie tighten up).
You probably only need to make 2 or 3 different sizes of these winding handles to cover a range of sizes up to say 8 SWG.
7 months ago by jbkiwi
Have I been Demoted
That's the 'secret ingredient' we have often discussed Peter!!
I reserve the swearing for when I hit my thumb with the
or similar ⚡💥☹️🤕
8 months ago by RNinMunich
Hints and Tips.
Being a real hoarder as my better half says - I hung on to the little chromed
s supplied with the presentation boxes of toffees . A bit of judicious filing / grinding produced a nice little pin
. Useful with skinny pins with steel head when working with balsa or liteply . For heavier work took one of those kiddy sized
s with the chrome plated shafts/rubber handles , cut head off with a hacksaw. Then with some work with a punch and vice removed the sawn off piece from the head , worked out how long the shaft should be to suit myself and cut some more off . Replaced the head using a liitle epoxy (its a force fit anyway) and now have a very useful short
both for around the house and model making. (have 2 currently - one for each toolbox)