Response

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31

Hi Stuart, At 23" your Huntsman is only a tad smaller than my 24" Sea Scout which I refurbished last year, look for the build blog 'Jessica - A Sea Scout restoration' on this site. I fitted a 1000kV 28mm Propdrive motor and Quicrun 16BL30 30A ESC from Hobbywing. including the ESC programming card the whole kit an' caboodle was just under 40 dollars from .com. With a 2S LiPo (7.4V) performance was sedate to adequate. With a 3S LiPo performance is 'twinkling' and a lot of fun to drive. Check out attached video links. Pt1: https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw First run with a 3S LiPo. Pt2: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM 'The competition'! Pt3: https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw 'Final run', the Bier was getting warm Prop is a brass 30mm 3 blade from Raboesch. Hope this helps, Happy Sailing. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Video is in HD 1080p, taken at the Ostpark Lake in Munich (adjacent to the Biergarten😉😁) May 2018.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Replacement motor

Hi Bengtt For that size model I use a 3639-1100kv brushless motor or a D3548/4 1100kv on a 3S lipo battery(between 3700-5800mah), a 60 or 100Amp car ESC (HK-60A-SL or HK-100A), program card(HK PROG-CARD). I have a good setup for this system, if you require. Prop start with the one you have, but I use a 2 blade 40mm or 3 Blade 37mm (brass or CNC). Slightly over scale speed, depending on the boat. Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Place

E s c

Hi I am using a Blue Rain esc rated at 60 amp 480 amp stall current .Has all the features of the viper plus a finned heat sink and cooling fan . Powers 2 black and decker 600 drill motors with Graupner series 162 props motors approx £3.50 and esc £6.43 All on E BAY Or motors can be had from Potts in Derby .The motors draw 30 amps at full speed and I use a 5000 3 cell lipo The expensive bit supplied .The boat is a Jules Verne Cheers Ian T

5 years ago by TOWN3810

Forum

Aeronaut Pilot Boat

Hi Ron. I am currently building the Aeronauts Pilot Boat Kit. it is reasonably well advanced now but I still have to fit the electronics. I bought two 400 sport brushed motors and was advised at a very early stage that two speed controllers were necessary. I looked into various solutions and found that sell a dual speed controller especially for two motors. it is a Hobbywing Quicrun 860. I hope this helps.😊 Peter.

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Aeronaut Pilot Boat

Steve. Since my last message, I have made progress, purchased a kit from Cornwall Models. Started building hull just before Xmas and as you mentioned, you need to have patience to get it right. Before going to far, I am planning how to set up the Motors and the Speed controller. I have got a Viper Marine 25 ESC and 2 Motors (380's). Looking back at some photos of yours, it looks as you have 2 Speed Controllers. I am having problems in getting the ESC to talk to the 2 Motors. Do I need to have a second ESC to operate the 2 Motors? How would this be set up through my Controller? Would appreciate some clarity of my thinking. Best Wishes. Ron👍😁

5 years ago by RonW

Blog

Slow going ...

After building the mine laying rails I then purchased scale German mines , only to find out that they are 4mm wider than the rails on the boat, ...what to do , cut the mines (8) down and rework the base and wheels to fit the boats rails or move the rails wider ..... moving the rails ... slow going , found that the motors I have are more aircraft/drone use per the esc, , no reverse .... does have esc that will work , still need a couple of servos and a radio , just not sure if a 6 Chanel land/ boat radio or get a large channel stick radio would be better ... as always $$$$ is an issue . Work on the messy table as I fit cut and replace fittings and supports ... Smooth sailing to all... Bill G

5 years ago by BW3

Forum

internet sales

Bom dia Wingcoax, If I want something pronto I go online to Conrad or Krick here in Germany and usually get the 'stuff' in one or two days. If I order from Turnigy/ I make sure the stuff comes from the EU warehouse. Then it's usually here within the week. Most of the stuff has reasonably understandable instructions, or I can find it on the web. Learned that the hard way with a delivery from China that took several weeks and and then cost me a small fortune in German customs duty 😡 Model shops around Munich are basically model railway, aircraft or toys🤔 Such is life today! Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Plumbing the water-cooling for the ESC

The ESC I’m using has the facility for water cooling and as it will be in an enclosed location without any free ventilation it seems sensible to utilise this feature. To keep the water circuit as short as possible I will put the pickup just behind the propeller and the exhaust on the stern but as the boat has a bulkhead just in front of the stern skin I need to make an access hole through it to allow me to secure the nut on the stern skin. I made a hole through the bulkhead large enough to get a socket on the nut and reinforced the hole with a ply plate, similarly I reinforced the inside of the stern skin where the outlet passes through it. When I was happy that the arrangement worked and I could attach the hoses and securing clips easily I glued and pinned the stern skin to the hull. The water pickup is a standard one that is readily available but it’s supplied with overly large and ugly fixing nuts, the inside one is of no consequence but I thought that the outer one needed smartening up so I put it on a threaded rod and locked it in place with another nut and put that into the chuck of a drill and used a file to re-shape the nut to a pleasing taper….who needs a lathe......😜 I had to reduce the height of the inner keel former as the pickup tube is not long enough to get a good fixing with the internal nut, as the inner keel is balsa I fitted a ply reinforcing plate to spread the load. The last ‘photo shows the location of the ESC, main battery fuse and receiver. The hoses will be secured to the ESC with spring clips throughout. I found that the silicone tube I use tends to kink rather easily if the radius of a bend is too small and I found it necessary to form a tight spring coil around the piece that loops the water back through the ESC to prevent this happening.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi All If you require a brush ESC. The one is the only one I have found with straight forward/ reverse with NO BRAKE. Set is with links, but the they only work on Nicads and Lipo batteries. They will run on 12 volt SLA, but no less!!!! I am using them in my two Hellen fishing boats with 55 turn rock crawler motors on 2S Lipo on 60% throttle. https://.com/en_us/hobbywing-quicrun-60a-2s-3s-waterproof-brushed-esc-for-1-10.html Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi All I use the car ESC's HK-45A, HK-60A SL and HK-100A which all use the same program card(HK PROG-CARD). I use the same setup for all my boat, only changing the battery setting for the 2s, 3S and 4S Lipo. 1 Cutoff Voltage for 3S=10.2 and 4S=13.6 2 Start Power Percent=5% 3 Advance Timing=4 4 Run Mode=2 5 Brake Force=1 6 Drag Brake Force=1 7 Neutral Range=1 8 initial Brake Force=1 9 Reverse Force=1 It works for me. Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Forum

Brushless motor(s)

Hi Charlie I have tested my 37" Perkasa with a brushless 3639-1100kv motor from , a 60A ESC, 3S 5800MAH Lipo battery and 37mm 3 blade CNC prop. It's dam fast !!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fddqnbnlrQ Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Response

New bits

Hi Steve, The lipo situation is I always use https://.com/en_us/new-items.html?___store=en_us, a good choice and very fast delivery, regarding prop and size, on my huntsman I use a three bladed prop in brass 30mm M4, and silicon wires, loads of places but I always use The Component Shop https://www.componentshop.co.uk/, hope this is of some use to you😉 cheers Peter

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Sandgrounder There are a number of speed 400's with voltage range from 4.8 to 7.2 volts. The revs range is between 16,400 to 22,000 rpm. So 28mm brushless like a Prop Drive V2 2836- 1800kv(shaft 3.175mm) on a 3S Lipo battery with give you 19,980 rpm. ESC 45Amp. Prop 30-32mm 2 blade. If it's tight of battery space have small ones you can parallel together like the Turnigy 3S 1500mah 25C (73 x 33 x 27 mm). Regards Canabus

5 years ago by canabus

Response

HMS BRAVE BORDERER

Doug, Am using the 50A Boat ESC 4A UBEC along with their programming card. The diode explanation makes sense so will fit one. jbkiwi My battery -ESC and ESC -motor wires are short, probably around 4" each. The addition of capacitors as suggested is intriguing as have never heard of it before. Think it is easier to keep things together in a boat, whereas with an aircraft pitch trim becomes a factor. Am using 2S batteries with a 50A ESC, with the motor max current of 30 A. Have you any idea what size of capacitor I should use? The Tx/Rx combinations are almost infinite as the ESCs are programmable too. Just wish the ice would go so can experiment! Thanks both for your help, with this hobby you never stop learning.

5 years ago by Rowen

Response

Search light

It's a great shame that Maplins have gone, they were once a good source of electronic components but in later years turned into more of a 'toy shop' than an electronic hobbyists shop. The high power LED is nevertheless available from but the lense will prove more difficult to source now. Midas Components in Norfolk used to be an importer of the 'HJ-HPH2' lens and I also found this after a quick Google: https://www.tme.eu/gb/details/hj-hph2/lens/huey-jann-electronic/hph2/ The 'Peter Jones' mentioned could be the chap from the Dragons Den programme? I'm very flattered by Doug's epithet 'King of Crash Tenders' but it is undeserved and should be attributed to the likes of Paul Devlin (pmdevlin) and the late Peter Henshaw (HS93) both from whom I took great inspiration, (and stole lots of ideas from 😜). It is nevertheless very pleasing the the Crash Tenders still appeal to modellers who want to make them and detail them as much as Mike Turpin here.

6 years ago by robbob

Response

Search light

"Maplin Electronics, trading as Maplin, was a retailer of electronic goods in the United Kingdom and Ireland. in June 2017, there were 217 Maplin stores. The company also operated an extensive online, telephone and mail order service. On 28 February 2018, Maplin went into administration, placing 2,500 jobs at risk, and on 25 June 2018 all Maplin stores ceased trading. In August 2018, Peter Jones purchased the Maplin name and is making a Maplin themed website to open soon as an online only shop." https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Maplin_(retailer) Signs of the times folks!😭 If we all shop Online at , Bangood etc etc etc what can we expect!? Cheers, Doug 😎 Wonder who Peter Jones is! !!!! Watch this space!!!! https://www.maplin.co.uk/

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Brushless motors (again)

Hi Steve I started with the 3639-1100 kv in my Huntsman with a 2 blade 40mm prop, 3S 5800mah Lipo and a car 60 Amp ESC. Upgraded to the 100Amp car ESC and a straight change over to the 3648-1450 motor. All from . Good units and have no problems. Also a the price will not break the bank book!!! Note, change the uni-joint to metal as the plastic ones will not handle the power and break. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

just need cable (wire)...

Hi I get my cable from Banggood or . Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

RC....mixers? And other unknowns..

Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

6 years ago by BW3

Forum

Old outboard motor...

Oh I know what to do with 'em, Doug, just not sure I could DO it! I think if you need a quick outboard and won't pay Graupner prices, you're stuck with a who do 2, both very similar, but about 65-70 quid a pop. I've just realised my little vintage outboard will go on my little fibreglass clinker dinghy, making it a wee fishing boat. I will have to put 2 servos in the dolly (dressed as an old salt). One will turn it on and off and one will steer once I've put a tiller on it. No ESC needed. Old o/bs either run or not, so he can turn the little brass switch on and steer it. Painted harbour launch grey, with a couple of lobster pots and a dog, it'll be a sweet little model. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Old outboard motor...

Hi Doug, I do have a CNC ally one and now have a brushless inrunner for it. I got it when they were very cheap a while back. Wouldn't pay what they now want for them and Graupner are always way overpriced. I could be tempted with 7 quid for a Hobbies one though, just to see how it goes together. The K&O are gorgeous but collector money and the Alterscale are dummies, albeit nice dummies and also bloody expensive. I sliced the little vintage jobby I bought down the joint line with a fine saw blade in the minidrill today and all is well. it just needs new wires and some grease when I can find some good styrene/nylon grease. The motor is a two magnet Kako, many examples of which I have in store. Even has a nice little built in switch. I reckon 3 volts is probably all the transmission can take. The gears are not, as I assumed bevels, but 2 spur gears! I now have to find a way of making the prop shaft stay on the motor shaft! I'm loving this restoration stuff. Painted the red on my Star yacht today with my best chisel headed sable and got a special 1/4 litre of the emerald green mixed in HMG enamel (the very best there is). Tried to win a lovely Starlet off ebay, but some sod beat me to it last minute. I hope it leaks Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Old outboard motor...

That's how the modern ones work, but I assume the flexi is stainless cable rather than a spring. I have one from for a fast little kneeler to 152VO rules, even though I'll never race it as all their events are in Germany and Holland and I don't have a Passport, but I do like the boats. I shall be off to try cutting this ancient one apart to repair the motor and wiring. I'd love one of those Keil Kraft Elmic Sprite outboards, but can't justify the cost. And any of the O&K scale working o/bs are gorgeous. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

Cygnus GM32

Hi Cygnus GM32 I am using these ones https://.com/en_us/hobbywing-quicrun-60a-2s-3s-waterproof-brushed-esc-for-1-10.html Links to setup the ESC on Lipo and Niamh. I have used them on 12 volts , but, they will not work on 6 volts. You can crash straight from forward into reverse !!! Running a 70mm 3blade on one Hellen fishing boat (weight 14 pounds) and a 60mm brass 3 blade on the other Hellen.

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

Got the bits, now what?...

"^ Both spellings are used in both British and American English. "Macmillan English Dictionary". Macmillan Publishers Limited. 2010. Retrieved 2010-04-14. "adapter noun [countable] /əˈdæptə(r)/ or adaptor an object that allows you to connect two pieces of equipment of different types or sizes a. British an object that allows you to connect several pieces of electrical equipment to one electricity supply b. an object that allows you to use electrical equipment in countries where there is a different type of electricity supply from your own" ^ Andrews, Jean (2007). A+ guide to managing and maintaining your PC (6th ed.). Boston, Mass.: Thomson Course Technology. p. 395. ISBN 0-619-21758-8." https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Adapter Component shop seems to prefer 'adapter'! Whatever, glad you've got it sorted, or nearly. 2mm on the motor is unusual! What motor is it? Who or what the blue blazes was 'Giant Cod'??? Google's answer - https://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/australasia/mans-head-found-in-giant-cod-711407.html 😲 is good for brushless, BUT I now also Google the Type/Model number of the motor that interests me on and sometimes I find the same thing cheaper here in Germany! Shop/Google around😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Got the bits, now what?...

Hi martin, yeah stuff comming from places far and wide are a pain in the stern. Bullet connections (the type they use on cars) are ok not sure if used on greater current and amps they wont melt. I built more aeroplanes with electric power trains and l found that if l stayed with one or two types of connections it was much easier to keep a little collection of spares. EC3 and EC5 are the Blue coloured plastic/brass bullet plugs you can buy. have a look on web site at lipo batteries it will show you all the connections that are out there. jim dogge

6 years ago by jimdogge

Forum

Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver

Thanks a that's a great response. and probably says dump it and buy a new one, its for my 5yr old grandson and I saw this on , what do you think for a first beginners set? https://.com/en_us/turnigy-5x-5ch-mini-transmitter-and-receiver-mode-2.html @ £18.97

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

motor sizeing

Hi Jim I used a D3548/4 1100kv , a car ESC (hk60A-SL)(electric fan on top for cooling), program card(HK PROG-CARD) and a 40mm 2blade prop(test out the one on the boat first). Battery a 3s 5800mah 30C Lipo. This is in my Sea Commander and gives a good turn of speed with a long run time. ESC set up:- 1 Cutoff Voltage for 3S=10.2 and 4S=13.6 2 Start Power Percent=5% 3 Advance Timing=4 4 Run Mode=2 5 Brake Force=1 6 Drag Brake Force=1 7 Neutral Range=1 8 initial Brake Force=1 9 Reverse Force=1 Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

If you are using 2 ESCs/BEC/UBECs with 2 plugged into 1 receiver you should remove the red wire from one of the plugs and tape it back to the lead, as both plugged in will possibly supply too much voltage for the receiver (you are getting double the voltage from 2 different sources) and this can cause the ESC to stutter . You should have no problems with Brushless out-runner motors as with the correct match with the ESC they should be as smooth as brushed. I have dual 2000kv 28/45 in-runners (with water jackets) and twin ESCs and 2 sound units using 1 receiver in my 64ft ASR model with no problems regarding proportional control (fwd or rev). I had a 28mm O/R in a Maiami ASR and it would crawl along (but the high noise was ear wrecking so have changed it back to brushed for now. I do have a similar slight high pitched squeal at certain speeds on one motor and this may be caused by the particular motor not 'syncing'properly with the ESC (Chinese cheap ESCs and /made in china motors) but short of changing that motor and ESC I am just putting up with it for now. The high pitched sync noise is fairly common and sometimes not fixable, (a number of my larger planes do it and its audible from 100m away (also amplified by a hull,-nice sound box). it can depend on the way a particular motor is wound (no 2 are identical) or even magnet placement/timing, as the may be hand wound by 2 very nice Chinese ladies at different ends of a bench ( just read some of the Hobby King motor reviews ) You could try changing the frequency on the ESC if it has that option as a higher motor Kv sometimes requires a higher frequency. Also make sure your ESC is set to the correct battery cell count. if it has an auto setting that should usually work best for general applications unless you are running fancy motors. Regarding interference, make sure you keep your aerial as far as poss from the motors and ESCs (even on 2.4 - I put mine right up in the bow) and there should be no problems. I have had 2 twin engined boats (my MTB & ASR) 1 brushed and 1 brushless running side by side 10" apart using the same radio for both (same type of Rec in each boat) with no problems at all. The bow down is probably prop shaft angle (the shallower the better) but if you are using counter rotating props you could try swapping props (inward rotation to outward) and motor rotation to see if it makes a difference. Also with 2800Kv motors you should be using small props (around 28-30mm diam 3 blade) as these motors are made to rev) as on a 2s battery they will be turning at around 20,000 dry and perhaps 18,000 wet (depending on prop) and if you load them too much they will cook with no cooling (assuming they are around 28mm dia ?) Only other thought - silicone couplings will squeal real loud if they slip.

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...

Hi Martin, Welcome to the world of 'working' models😉 It also cost me a small fortune when I started to get into brushless and LiPo stuff last year after retiring. That Simprop ESC should be fine for your Supermarine (if you ever find it 😁) See what you mean about the prices for bigger NiMhs 🤔 OK, 'Go LiPo young man', BUT remember what I wrote above; Watch 'em! Any other printing on that 2012 motor? Maker? kV rating? A pic might help. What do you mean by 'a couple of LiPos'? 2S? Re Brushless ESCs; have a look at the Turnigy range at , or Quicrun at HobbyWing. https://.com/en_us/power-systems/speed-controllers/brushless-esc.html?___store=en_us&brand=2033%2C2223%2C2009&dir=asc&esc_compatibility_type=4546%2C4549%2C4570&esc_product_type=4576&order=position&stock=1&wrh=1%2C7 https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/quicrun-brushless-system You can probably find a UK shop for these; Google them! I use the 30A Quicrun version in my Sea Scout works fine with my Propdrive 2830 1000kV motor and a 3S LiPo. See pic. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Seat Trials and mods.

It’s been a while since the boat had it’s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and I’m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still don’t have any decent video of the boat yet as I can’t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video I’ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe I’ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shots…the storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the ‘domestic test tank’ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little programming adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to ‘off’ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPo’s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outing…..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakeside…not very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boat….blog coming soon.

6 years ago by robbob

Forum

SuzyQ

Hi Guys If you use 3648-1450kv 35mm brushless on a 4S 5800mah Lipo, 100Amp ESC and a 2 blade 40mm prop it will go like the clappers !!! You would have to make it from plywood to take 1600Watts(about 2HP @ 21,000 rpm(unloaded)!!! Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

Brushless outboard...

Hi Westquay I had the F1 outboard from which had a 28mm 3000kv motor. I ran it on 3S with a 45Amp ESC. Great unit, but, clean and regrease after each days running. Also they did not have spare flex drives. The flex drives do not last very long. I had it on a 24" shallow vee, trim and balance right would run at full speed just on the prop!!! Totally insane to drive. I did not install to 2836-3700kv with 700Watts!!! Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

Lifeboat plans

Spitfires in this case are kneeler o/b powered vintage race boats. I thought I had 2 on the go, one for me and one for someone else, but I just found one! Oh well, one's enough. The dollies are needed to look like they're driving these things. They accept 1/6th scale dollies and I even have a suit of clothes bought off ebay for him! I bought an outboard motor from without fitted motor for bugger all, but now see that the same thing is £45 quid without brushless, which needs to be a 28mm watercooled inrunner. I'm going to need one of the those to fit the shaft and all that, but can only find one for 31 quid. it seems HK have been upping their prices lately! Do you have any reccomendations for where to get such an animal a little cheaper? I need the motor, I now realise, to build the dummy Godiva casing round it. It's supposed to be around 2300Kv, but the only ones HK have are more. is that very important? Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Lifeboat plans

Of course, Doug, but you have to admit the mass line-ups look bloody realistic. I have 2 Spitfires in build and have even found a couple of dollies to drive them. And, I bought a o'b without motor. So info on installing a brushless will be required once the installation begins. I' couldn't leave the o/b alone, so I had to turn it into a Godiva 40 as built by Coventry Climax. Not much current news but their forum is still going up to date. I very much doubt that any English have taken it up yet. No evidence of it on the forum. Of course, whilst there are a few (rather expensive) kits, most are scratchbuilt and very nicely too. That's what I like about 152 vo. Martin The almost legendary Coventry Climax powered Godiva 40.

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Lifeboat plans

do a nice brushless outboard, which, if you're not ready for the whole thing, comes without a motor, so you can set up and then choose a smallish motor. it's very nicely made with a CNC leg and very thin GRP cover. I think mine was £17 without the motor which is about 7 quid from them, but their prices change a lot and often. The 152VO boys know all about outboards. it's their very raison d'etre. Can't help with the lifeboat. I always give to the charity, but have no interest in them as models. Try this and get immediately hooked!:-http://www.152vo.de/ Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

What transmitter , receiver

Sort of cross between and Woolworths Martin! I just used their German site to buy selections of LEDs and resistors, thanks to a tip from Ed (figtree!) Cheers, Doug 😎 https://www.banggood.com/buy/uk.html?sbc=1 PS Stuff just arrived, only ordered on Satterday arternoon. Wasn't scheduled until Wednesday 😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

What transmitter , receiver

The flysky fsi6/tgy i6 upgrades to ten channels for the price of a of Data cable at £3.00 from and a 10 channel telemetry rx £15.00 some sensers at £7.00 so it monitors main battery voltage and RPM which is very useful especially the voltage . RPM handy for prop choosing I have done my tx and now all I have to do is figure out what to do with the other channels better to many than not enough Good set and expansion at low cost 👍

6 years ago by catman

Response

Five windows left!

Mornin' Ed, Yeah, think I'll do the same with my Southampton. She's a bit gaudy in the colours! But AFTER the fish cutter and PTB refits! Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Spektrum, new, useless...

Mornin' 😲Martin, Yeah, I thought the TX was good for both too. I bought it 'off the shelf' in Conrad, in Tal here in Munich. Then much later in the small print on Spektrum's website I read - "DSM2 not for EU models'! 😡 Odd! UK was also in the EU then!? Will PM U wot I paid for it. Came from - Where else? No wonder model shops are dying like flies 🤔 You're right about plane size. Last one I built (a few decades ago🤔) was the little Simprop 'Zaunkönig' (= Wren). After I 'd built it I looked at the short double decker wings, about the length of my forearm!, and cut the top plane down the middle and added a centre section to about double the span for more lift, and hopefully to make it less twitchy.See pics. Last pic is the sad mucky state when I found it in the cellar last year. Shortly after that I moved to Munich and had my hands full with other concerns. Still got the Enya 047 Glowplug and fuel tank intended for it somewhere! Might try fitting a brushless instead. When I was a kid, around 13 / 14, I made a scratch built (no plan - just 'thinks'!) free flight (RC? Wossat?) soarer. Basically 3 planks of 36x4x1/4" hard balsa. 72" span, 36" tail boom fuselage. That was BIG in those days. Bloody thing climbed and flew so well on it's Maiden that the last I saw of it was at zig thousand(?) feet over Hemswell Cliff in Lincolnshire heading due east at a rate of knots 🤔 Had launched it from the top of the water tower at RAF Hemswell, Dad was a Crew Chief on Thor missiles there. Hope someone in Denmark or Norway had some fun with it 😉 I've often wondered where it ended up. Must dig my Flying Boat / Wing outta the cellar! BTW: the foam wing/flying boat and Catalina arrived as kits with the foam cutting already done😁 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS: I still have the Glow-plugs I bought for the 'Zaunkönig', intend to try them as ignition for Flash Paper firing of depth charge throwers and guns on my destroyer. One has to have dreams or there's no progress! 😁 G'night all 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

BRUSHLESS ESC

Hi RHBaker If the ESC exceeds the motor draw that's all is required. I only use two sizes in my boats, a 45A for small boats and 100A for the larger boats. The both use the same program card !!! These are the car ESCs because they have an on/off switch, small and have an electrical fan on top. Very good for low speed running and no water plumbing required. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

What transmitter , receiver

Flysky i-6 is amazing value for money for a 6 channel computer radio. sell the same set with their Turnigy brand as the TGY i-6. You can buy the TGY i-6 from in the UK for around £45:- https://.com/en_us/turnigy-tgy-i6-afhds-transmitter-and-6ch-receiver-mode-2.html

6 years ago by ukengineman

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!) Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then. Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos. First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. if any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin. I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place. Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉 I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local model shops and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics. Model shop owners gotta eat too! Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER

Hi. Thanks for your comments. Before I started the BB did some canvassing of the net to find other builders. The drivetrain remarks were particularly interesting. The consensus seems to be that building three screws, as is scale and as I am determined to do, is the most complex and that for performance it is better using either single or two. Once deviating from scale bigger propellers also work better. I have rather limited my options with being determined to capture the original layout though. The vessel is being scratch built on a hull from MTBHulls, of which I am well pleased. The HK source is , often find their products are on backorder, but usually only take a few days to arrive. in this case have been advised it will be rather longer.

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

I'm certainly Well Chuffed with your Missus👍😊 You've gotta good'n there mate😉 Great, now we're all on the same wavelength. When will you get your 'stickies' on it? So now you've got (or will have) basically the same set as I and many others here, just with a different brand name. Mine is from Conrad and they just rebranded it Reely and almost doubled the price😭 Spare Rxs I bought from for peanuts and bonded the lot as soon as they arrived. No problems at all😊 I have one in my restored Sea Scout, did you see the videos I posted of her Sea Trials in the Ostpark? First run https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0BWJ3duzDw&feature=youtu.be Final run, bier was getting warm😉 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPgYicA0yGw&feature=youtu.be Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: Apropos 'Pooterism' which one are you, Charles (left) or Lupin?😁😁

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Brushless motor selection

Hi robhenry Your motor would be only running at about 9500rpm 0n 9.6 volts. The closest brushless motor would be a Turnigy L5055C-700kv on 4S Lipo batteries (10360 rpm), these are 50mm diameter, 6mm shaft. Note you require a separate ESC for each motor and a Y connector to link them to your throttle channel. Personally I would use the car 100A ESC's (HK-100A). Also both the motors and ESCs require no water cooling. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Doug, I went on and it seems what little they have is all for LiPos only. So I found something on ebay, but it doesn't really seem happy with NiMhs, even though they are on its list. it doesn't do capacity remaining for NiMhs and NiCads. So I'm a bit lost for where to go next. There are some that just go green, yellow, red, but I know you'll tell me they're too crude Now, I really must eat! M

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Brushless motor selection

Hi robhenry What volt battery are you running at present ?? 12 or 24 volts. If 24 volts those motors spec at 24,000rpm. Power is 511 Watts on 24 volts. 24,000 divide by 14.8(4S Lipo batteries) equal 1612 kv. So the closest motor would be 1700kv, eg water cooled 3660SL-1700kv which has a 5mm shaft and 44mm diameter with a length of 60mm( from ). Power rated at 1800 Watts on 6S, so it would be lower than that. But if you are running 12 volts on the Graupner motor it would be about half the rpms. These brushless motors are far more powerful so check out the specs on the motors you are looking at !!! Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Response

1920's Runabout

The motor is a Turnigy D2838/11 1000kv with a 30amp esc on 2/3 cell lipo.

6 years ago by Jim

Forum

advise required

Just to throw a little spanner in the works teejay if your thinking of adding auxiliary's to your boats later as you progress, I use the turnigy 9x radio from now and for the money mate I can't fault the radio and the receiver's are cheap and 10 model memory . Ron

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary