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    Forum
    Painting white metal
    Hi Roger, Metal fittings of any kind and white metal figures can be painted with either
    humbrol
    type paint (enamel) or Acrylic paint,both will need their own primer, but remember😱. you can paint enamel over acrylic, but not the other way (acrylic over enamel). Most of the fittings I get in my Deans Marine warships are white metal and resin, I use Halfords plastic primer (grey or white) then use acrylic paint from various company's to finish off. Hope this is of some help to you.😊 cheers PeterπŸ‘
    4 years ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    Painting
    I have a Huntsman 31 model I am refurbishing. The paint is peeling off from age, the muppet who painted it only applied one coat (Me), the
    humbrol
    enamel was probably too thick for the fine grain of the birch ply and spruce. I am planning to start with cellulose sanding sealer as it is nice and thin so should get a good key into the grain. So.. What paint should I use over the sealer? Some parts of the ply I want to look like teak deck planking so first I think I need a stain. Then line in the planks with fibre tip pen followed by what type of varnish? Some of the spruce needs to look like mahogany so do I stain it or use some sort of paint? Thanks Steve
    4 years ago by steve-d
    Forum
    Painting
    Will post pics of the curved planking when I get in this evening but in the mean time any thoughts on the type of paint I should use on the hull? The subject boat is painted with international 'Toplac' but the smallest tin they do is 750ml (Β£22.95) so its not getting that. The model was painted with
    humbrol
    enamel but it peeled so perhaps to be avoided.
    4 years ago by steve-d
    Blog
    Italeri P.T 109
    I bought an italeri PT109 kit in 2011. it took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using
    humbrol
    spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty😁
    4 years ago by boaty
    Blog
    Main cabin Deck!
    OK, couldn't wait painted the main cabin deck! I'm using
    humbrol
    #RC417 Coach roof off white! Couldn't find the right light grey in matt finish! So, decided on the coach roof off white. Which looks like a shade of light grey! Have put three coats! Will put another coat for good measure! Have to let it dry over night! To then paint the main cabin boarder......
    4 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Window Painting!
    So you'll be finished on the 29th ?? 😲 Just like Newport News - time and cost overruns 😁 3 coats sounds extravagant to me Ed.
    humbrol
    enamel is pretty thick stuff. Matt covers better than gloss as well, 2 should be enough I think. Cheers, Doug 😎
    4 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Window Painting!
    OK, I started painting the windows on the Brooklyn. I miscalculated there's 19 windows not 17! I figure 3 coats each should do! What do you guys think. Should I put more than 3 coats? I'm using
    humbrol
    #70 Brick Red matt!
    4 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Trent deck colour
    Thanks for that - I had heard the Rover Tempest Grey was close but found it to be very dark. I shall look for the
    humbrol
    grey Cheers
    4 years ago by Flack
    Forum
    Trent deck colour
    having built a Trent and now onto a Tamar, the nearest colour I have found to the current RNLI livery is
    humbrol
    165 Medium Sea Grey.
    4 years ago by Manofkent
    Forum
    Fire Boat (crash tender) colours...
    Evenin' Martin, just a quick thought before I hit the hay! For the non slip deck paint why don't you cover the deck with a suitable wet and dry paper? πŸ˜‰ With a bit of luck you might even find some wet n dry the right shade of grey!! Don't know the size / scale you are building but maybe around 120 / 240 would do! Cut to fit, glue it down with a spray glue, I found some in the 'Creative Corner' of a garden centre near me. Also a good source of fine gauge steel, brass, copper, gold and silver wire and nylon thread, and anchor chainsπŸ˜‰πŸ˜Š Then seal with a spray-on flat sealer or varnish, then spray a satin colour you want.
    humbrol
    H129 might be a good substitute for 'Cerrux Deck Grey'. See Model Boat Mayhem for references to Cerrux Grey πŸ˜‰ I agree the cabin sides are a much lighter shade of grey, almost white. Just ripped all the innards and deck fittings off my PTB. Just got the bare hull and shaft tubes left. Just havin' a wee dram then up the 'apples and pears to Bedfordshire' before I get tempted to sand and paint through the night. it happens sometimes 😲 G'night all, cheers Doug 😎 ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Final Color Choice!
    I was going to use a very light green. By
    humbrol
    but decided against it because. I thought about it Tugs of that class and era. Where a dark green! But I don't want to use dark green! So, I purchased medium light green instead. It's called "Army Green"! Oh, it has no shine what so ever. A very matt finish which is what I want! If you look at the picture to the right. That's the original Brooklyn. Docked somewhere on a New York City pier. Circa 1910!
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Stem Post & Bollards!
    Hi Donnieboy, I'm going to paint the superstructure. 90 Beige Green Matt - 150ml Acrylic Spray Paint. by
    humbrol
    #AD6090! This will help for the Tug to stand out on the ponds! With olive drab for contrast! But I'm taking my time with the project. Because I may also be going to put deck light. and running lights as well!
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Deck Colour
    Evenin' George, any mid to dark green would do nicely. Suggest a satin / semi matt paint. Something like the
    humbrol
    131 or 195 in the attached chart. Of course it doesn't have to be the little
    humbrol
    tins (unless you have an airbrushπŸ˜‰) but a similar colour in aerosol, maybe from Tamiya. Type depends on what was on it before!! To be on the safe side give it a couple of thin coats of grey primer first. Flat off with 600 wet & dry then apply the colour coats. E.g. acrylic. Where on earth, and when, can you sail up there in the frozen North!? 😲 Good luck, and have fun, cheers Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi MT, agreed the synthetics are better than they used to be, but still can't beat a good 'well run in' sable brush. πŸ˜‰ Spray for the big bits, brushes for the fiddly bits! E.g. 600 scale, even for those I don't use the paint (e.g.
    humbrol
    , Colourcoat or Revell etc) straight from the can, it's too thick and gluey for detail work πŸ€” I thin it about 2 parts paint to 1 thinners. Some matt and satin maybe a bit less thinners, varies with type, colour and make. Practise, practise ... All good fun Eh!? 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Bollard Hieght!
    My pleasure Ed, It's actually a New Zealand navy frigate, probably one of the German (Blohm & Voss) MEKO types built for the ANZAC program. Pic is from under the Heli Deck on the stern. First 'fairlead' pic I stumbled on in my archive, don't have too many tugs in the electronic stashπŸ˜‰ Let me know if you need any help with the LED circuit; dropping resistor etc. I agree with the green, so dark makes her look a bit drab and 'sinister'. A lighter shade would be more cheerful - and easier to see on the pond! Attached is a
    humbrol
    wall chart (with some conversion tables to other makes) which might give you some inspiration πŸ˜‰ How about #90, Beige Green matt? You might also look at Tamiya and italeri acrylics. Cheers Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Glue from
    humbrol
    !
    It's nice to see customer service at work.Kudos to Cornwall Model Boats.
    5 years ago by Donnieboy
    Blog
    Glue from
    humbrol
    !
    Just got an email from Cornwall Model Boats. They're going to refund the price of the glue from
    humbrol
    ! Turns out the one's they had on there shelves were also dried in the bottles as well! I'm still a fan of Cornwall Model Boats....πŸ‘πŸ˜Š
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Amsterdam
    Hi Colin, looks like
    humbrol
    / Revell Deck Green to me. As used e.g. on RN WW2 ships in the North Atlantic. Did my HMS Hotspur with this. Cheers Doug 😎 Hi Jugge: congratulations your Amsterdam is a super job πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘ Do not apologise for your English - you do not want to hear my attempts at Swedish! 😲😑
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Safely Packed ???
    I ordered a tinlet of
    humbrol
    (other paints are available) and hey ho, an Amazon (other..etc) carton the size of a developing nation arrived along with enough brown paper packing to entirely encompass my woman's glutes ! WOTTA WASTE
    5 years ago by bilzin
    Response
    Superstructure finished!
    I attached the plastic tube that came with the original kit with long brass nails. You need to just fit them so that you dont squash the tube. I painted the tube with a darkish red
    humbrol
    before fitting. The fore and aft bits are the bulwarks and there is also a small rail running along the edges of the deck, but set in slightly. On the real boat they carried the stanchion bearers and acted as a foot stop. They also need to have washports to allow deck water to run off. I've attached a few pics of my Solent FYI. I agree it was not a scale model but at the time we used IC engines that required easy and large access and this was one of the more realistic models available. Many like yourself have added lots of detail and the finished result will look the part and will be a credit to you. Looking forward to seeing the finished Oxford Blue hull.
    5 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Varnish
    I always liked
    humbrol
    Marine varnish. Hard ,Shiny, and fuel proof. Very clear. I don't know if their latest is as good .
    5 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    PT109 Refit
    YooHoo! Found a 37mm kit at right scale, and orderedπŸ˜‰ Now, where can I get some miniature baked-bean tins for the depth charges? πŸ€” Gisela's Doll's House perhaps πŸ˜‰ Hi Boaty, Ta for the info, I'll watch the temperatures! Thinks, must get a temp sensor or two for the telemetry feedback! Oh Woe where does it all end??😲 I bought my PTB from 'DadofBasil' complete with two 20something brushless. I intend to run it on a 2S LiPo 4000mAh.
    humbrol
    paints are as rare as rocking horse droppings out here, but I found a source of the original WEM ColourCoat US26 MTB Green😊 Also have a paler version, like in the photos above, from italeri (arrived today) so can (hopefully) achieve suitable sun-fading / weathering effects. 'Standard' anti fouling (matt brick red!) for lower hull like you! I want to build as it was when she got crunched by Amagiri, as far as possible considering all the partly conflicting versions and reports! For instance; Still trying to decide whether to leave the mast off completely or just fold it down! Cheers Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    PT109 Refit
    Built an italeri PT 109 about four years ago. Power is by a brushed 480 running on 2200 mha 7.4 Lipo. Drive is a single prop and it performs nicely at a scale speed but it can not be run flat out for too long as it will overheat and due to the excessive speed it can get slightly out of shape.. I used
    humbrol
    Grass Green acrylic aerosol for the paint job with dull red from the waterline downwards. I built the model to its earlier spec with a life raft mounted on the bow in place of the later cannon which I believe was used for barge busting. Boaty
    5 years ago by boaty
    Response
    Decks
    Hi Norm, All the weapons, boats and other 'hangers-on decks' are
    humbrol
    colour Matt Sea Grey # 27, Revel approximate Matt Mouse Grey (Mausgrau) # 47. Don't know what paint type you use but I have several conversion charts so let me know and I'll see if I can find an equivalent. Flight deck is Matt U.S. Light (!) Green # 117, which is actually not so light, more of a Sea Grey-green. Arrester wires: On the Ark there are 8 ! According to my plan- #1 33.5m from the edge of the roll down, #2 6.6m from #1 #3 6.6m from #2 #4 7.33m from #3 #5 7.33m from #4 #6 6.95m from #5 #7 5.64 from #6 #8 5.26 from #7 No guarantee for accuracy!! Or even if 'Lusty' was the same but it's an indication. πŸ˜‰ Your build is looking good πŸ‘ I'm wondering if you are taking all this trouble why don't you go the 'whole hog' and bring her to lifeπŸ˜‰ Finish the hull and give her some motors 😊 No, I'm not in UK, I'm in Munich where I've been for the last 32 years, Tempus fugit😲, hence my forum name πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug 😎
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    muddy 6 Upperworks
    Hello, Thank you, BUt the camera lies..! I did think i had cracked it last year, by masking up the the varnished parts after a long drying time, and then continue with the painting..A month or so later, when all was done, i tried to remove the masking tape/newspaper, but found the tape had stuck hard and was a dickens of a job to clean off, it also left residue of glue on the varnish so looked pretty terrible. Talcum powder did work, sprinkling it on the offending residue and rolling it along the deck, but not 100%.. As a footnote, i used Wilko spray enamel on this one's hull with undercoat/primer, all spray cans.. Cheaper than Halfords.. But Halfords were doing 4 spray cans for the price of 3.. The cabin was hand painted with
    humbrol
    enamel.. Muddy
    6 years ago by muddy
    Forum
    Finishing
    πŸ‘Agree, my Sea Scout was enamel sprayed and I have a vast range of
    humbrol
    and Revell enamel colours. 😎
    6 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fantastic Plastic
    B&Q stock all colours of paint and looking at their corporate colour I would be surprised if they didn't stock orange paint
    humbrol
    do /did a lovely orange and a flourescent one too. if all else fails go to an angling shop as they stock it for float πŸ‘πŸ˜Šmakers
    6 years ago by onetenor
    Blog
    The Hull Markings
    The paint on the hull has sufficiently hardened and needs a couple of coats of clear lacquer to protect it but before that happens I need to apply the hull markings. The waterslide decal set that was supplied with my kit was probably at least 5 years old when I bought the kit on eBay and they had deteriorated so badly that when I put the large β€˜FIRE’ lettering panel in some warm water it fragmented and clearly was not usable. I called Mike Cummings at vintage Model works and explained my dilemma and he very generously agreed to supply me with a replacement set, and in addition a set of the recently available printed vinyl letters and markings that they now produce. I decided to use the vinyl set as a quick test piece with the waterslide set revealed that the white ink is not solid and therefore not completely opaque. Furthermore I could not eliminate the β€˜silvering’ effect that happens on waterslide decals despite using various lotions and potions such as
    humbrol
    Decalfix and Microsol/Microset solutions. A test piece with the vinyl lettering sheet was far more successful and when over-lacquered on the test piece the results were very acceptable. Starting with the large FIRE lettering I cut a paper template the same size as the complete word and fixed this with low tack masking tape on the hull, this paper was then outlined in more masking tape to form a window and the vertical spacing of the letters transferred to this to keep the correct spacing. Vertical strips of tape were then used as positioning guides for the letters which were individually cut and placed so that I could eliminate all but the solid white letters and give them a hard edge. Feeling very pleased with myself I removed the masking tape guides and realised to my horror that I had set the baseline of the letters far too close to the waterline and the vertical proportions were completely wrong ….disaster 😱 Feeling ashamed that I could make such a basic error I abandoned the lettering and called Mike at VMW and described my foolish error, no problem he said, I’ll send you another vinyl sheet and also some additional drawing that were missing from my kit that would help with detail finishing. My second attempt with the new vinyl sheet employed the same process but I was careful to measure, mark and check the positions (several times!) before starting. The roundel and numerals positions at the bow and the stern were carefully measured and marked using the supplied drawings and masking tape β€˜guides’ used to fix their positions before application. Lastly the roman numerals that span the waterline at the bow and stern were marked, cut and individually applied. I also took the opportunity to fix in place a couple of modified 6mm portholes to replicate the aft cockpit drain outlets, in the photo is the β€˜94’ waterslide decal which I later removed and replaced with vinyl when I could not eliminate the β€˜silvering’ problem. A big Thank You to Mike Cummings at Vintage Model works for replacing the lettering sheets TWICE! and for the extra drawings, I call that exceptional after sales service !. Cheers Mike πŸ‘πŸ‘ .
    6 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    flesh coloured paint
    I have some
    humbrol
    'flesh' enamel paint but it is baby pink rather than the ruffy tuffy tug boat deck hand that I want. Any suggestions as to what colour(s) I need to add to the
    humbrol
    paint to get the colour I am looking for? Chris
    6 years ago by octman
    Forum
    flesh coloured paint
    Hi Chris I also have the
    humbrol
    flesh paint. To darken the skin I use a pallette and place a few drops of the Flesh paint on the surface together with separate drops of red brown yellow and black. Just a matter then of taking some of the flesh colour to a spare spot and adding and mixing in the different colours to produce the shade of skin you require. Keep a piece of white paper to try the mix on and see how it dries. To create stubble I use Black almost dry with a very stiff bristle brush previously dabbed on paper to remove most of the paint. The more you experiment the better you will get. Cheers Dave
    6 years ago by Dave M
    Blog
    The wheelhouse navigation light.
    While the paint is drying on the hull there’s time to continue working on more of the white metal fittings. The body of the small navigation light on the wheelhouse roof is just big enough to set a small 3mm blue LED into so I started hollowing it out with a fine drill bit in a pin drill. The technique is to start with a small bit and by drilling one or two turns at a time and the backing the drill out to remove the swarf, this ensures that the bit does not jam in the very soft white metal, and then gradually increasing the bit size to the required diameter for the 3mm LED. The wire for the LED was taken from a miniature transformer from a defunct power supply, this tinned copper wire is very fine and is insulated with enamel. The legs of the LED were trimmed as short as possible and the wire soldered to each and insulated with some fine heat shrink, then the pair of wires were passed through some more heat shrink to form the connection cable and shrunk down. The base of the LED was also filed down slightly to reduce it’s diameter for a snug fit in the body of the fitting. After a quick test with a battery and dropper resistor the LED was epoxied into the body. Before painting the LED was β€˜frosted’ with a fine abrasive and the body cleaned up ready for paint. I used some
    humbrol
    β€˜Maskol’ on the LED before spraying with some white gloss.
    6 years ago by robbob
    Blog
    Deck and superstructure
    Next was the deck. First I glued some light coloured veneer I had available, and after sealing it drew lines on with a fine marker, but I didn't like the result. Luckily the next day down at the Menshed they were having a cleanup and were going to throw out a roll of paper backed teak veneer! Lucky or what? So I borrowed a rotary guillotine and cut lots of 6mm strips. Also lots of black card strips 1mm wide for the caulking. Had to use a conventional guillotine for them or they were too curly. Rapid pva worked well here. I used cedar for the bow detail. Sanding sealer rubbed down to 600grit gave me the finish I wanted. Cedar again for the rubbing strips; it bends easily with a bit of heat from a heat gun. Superstructure next; the bulkhead uppers were taped in place and the sides, front and back walls glued and taped nice and snug with the coaming. When set the cockpit sides were fixed. Next came the roof. The plans show a proper double curve unlike the kit, so it has to be planked…. cedar again. A thin slot has to be left in the planking at the cockpit sides to take the windscreen, so you need to know its thickness before doing this. I used .5mm rigid PVC as I could not source acetate. The superstructure was painted next. I had some problems here as the later coats of paint were softening the glue and showing up the planking. Many coats and sanding later I thought I’d use an enamel for the white top coats. it wasn't too smooth so I sprayed it with what was supposed to be clear PU varnish, but it was horribly yellow. I gave it a fine rub down and reverted to good old
    humbrol
    and a wide soft brush. Worked out fine!
    6 years ago by manyboats
    Forum
    Paint types
    Don't put celly onto enamel or any other oil based paint it will wrinkle it . You can use any varnish to seal.
    humbrol
    Marine varnish is also hot fuel proof
    6 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Aeronaut Pilot Boat
    Hi Ed Sorry, not sure what you mean about painting the inside? The instructions give some idea of when to paint and I will be following those to a great extent. Certainly before cabin construction is complete. I will be using different size brushes and
    humbrol
    enamel paints of the appropriate colours and finish. Hope this helps. Steve
    6 years ago by cormorant
    Response
    Antifoul lookalike paint
    Hi figtree 7nts Thanks for the advice I fixed myself up with
    humbrol
    matt French Blue. The boat I am building the model of had blue antifoul so it was important to replicate that. Thanks anyway πŸ‘
    7 years ago by Ballast
    Forum
    hull paint
    I've never used the glass cloth, but I do know epoxy, from models to full size wooden narrow boat cabins. I applied epoxy (WEST) to the new cabins I built with an old credit card. 2 coats. Then red oxide primer followed by 3 coats of enamel top coat gloss. By the time I sold the boat those cabins had gone through 3 winters and still the water ran off like a duck's back. I can't see how the glass can be safely or invisibly rubbed down with out seeing the overlaps in the finish. But I guess if you CAN rub it down invisibly it can't hurt, it just seems unecessary to me. Plus my work on a full sized boat kind of proves you don't need it. I have just epoxied the skin of my pre-War Marbehead yacht too, that'll be gently rubbed down and re-coated, then it'll be sprayed with enamel paint, using a touch-up gun and HMG enamel paint. I will not use acrylic for anything. On a new build, I have used cellulose sanding sealer to fill grain thoroughly (up to 10 coats, but they go on one after another it dries so quickly), followed by either self etch primer (because I have a load of it) and finally enamels. I do NOT mean
    humbrol
    s! The enamels I use are made by HMG and are intended for industrial/commercial vehicles. That's plenty good enough for me! I should also point out that I have 2 models which are now well over 50 years old and still bear their original enamel paint. No water ingress has ever occurred. Martin
    7 years ago by Westquay
    Blog
    RAF CRASH TENDER
    Two years ago I totally restored an old Aerokits Crash Tender believed to have been originally built circa 1962. Results appeared to have been very good and I used Halfords Grey Acrylic Primer for the decks and cabin sides. However I have noticed that the finish on the deck has started to crack a little with some small blisters around where the deck joins the superstructure. I thought that by using acrylic with a whole model that was stripped down to bare wood this would not occur. I have heard some people say I should have used Car Plan acrylic but I have not seen a shop selling it for ages and the only other similar paint I know of is of course
    humbrol
    Acrylic in aerosol cans that are readily available at the majority of model shops who sell plastic kits. Has anyone else come across this after painting their boat with Halfords Acrylic paint? Regards Boaty 😊
    7 years ago by boaty
    Response
    HMS Blake
    Glenn Hi, below the water line is Halfords red primer, above is sea grey 64, both covered with
    humbrol
    satin coat.
    7 years ago by martinsperring070558
    Response
    HMS Diamond D35 - Build update Twelve
    Hello Roy, just sent you an email I had from
    humbrol
    , they do not sell Light Sea Grey which I find weird. I'm sure someone in the forum will have a supplier they can recommend. Best regards Dave
    8 years ago by Pav403
    Forum
    LIFEBOAT CABIN WINDOWS
    Hi I had a Brede lifeboat and started to make the window. I cut some thin clear plastic of about 1mm thick using the window shape. The frames were cut from a printers metal sheet. The inside was finished about 2mm smaller than the window. I then cut out the outer frame, the outer measurement was the same as the plastic window and the inner edge to suit. These three parts were then carefully glued together and clamped. When the glue had set, I then smoothed off the edge of the window and painted with
    humbrol
    buffable metallic paint. I'm afraid my ability is not that good so when I saw a cast frame I opted for this. Anyway, I give you this idea which gave me weeks of thought! Good Luck Edward
    8 years ago by cenbeth
    Blog
    Build Update
    Hello, I've not had much chance lately to get much done, the photo's I've attached with this update show that I've added port holes to the side (and superstructure) I tried to find some pre fabricated "Navy" port holes but did not have much luck, I had a look at another build blog on a Destroyer and found he had used Eyelets you'd use on shoes! I thought I'd give it a go, I think they look good, some may argue it's not the original but it'll do for me 😊 I've also made a start on the turrets, I need to do a lot of sanding / smoothing before I attached them to the running gear and make sure they are level. Once I get to this point I am going to upload a video as I've not seen any "Simple" design solutions to rotating turrets for others to view, not being overly cleaver with the electronics just yet it may help others?? Last photo's are of the Hull with it's 1st coat of paint, I'm going for a darker Grey (
    humbrol
    Sea Grey No-27) than the recommended light grey. I'll need to rub down with finishing paper and add a few more coats before I'm happy, I'll upload a few more close up when ready. Good luck with your build's Dave
    8 years ago by Pav403
    Response
    Vosper 1/16th scale crash tender
    This is how I did mine, and it worked out fine. Seal the wooden frames with sanding sealer, paint the frames white leaving the back side unpainted, glue the very thin acrylic sheet to the back of the frame with canopy glue, (dries clear ) use a tooth pick to apply a very very small amount of the glue to the wooden frame. When dry (next day) trim the acrylic with a scalpel, finish off with fine wet and dry. With a very fine brush repaint the edges of the frame and acrylic, perhaps two thin coats. if you have made a good job of trimming the acrylic, and painting, you will not see it. Glue the frames to the boat after it has been painted, again using canopy glue, applied to the very edge of the opening using a very fine brush, glue the frames in position with the boat on its side, (so they don't slide down) I used
    humbrol
    paint for this job. The acrylic sheet,(if that is what it was) was off a box of chocolates I think. Hope this is of some help to you Alan
    8 years ago by AlanP
    Forum
    Another RAF Crash Tender restoration
    HI Dave I am thinking of using brush paints for the hull Red and black , A friend lives in the marina and might be able to get some real antI foul red paint 😁 I think that is spirit based , I can find some black satin spirit based leaving only
    humbrol
    64 for the grey if I can get some . The white roof from a rattle can worked ok . I hope to finish it for easter 2015 is my " dream " but it has been in the water and does look the part . I have some of the finishing touches but this will be a working boat . Not a show boat defininately NOT a SLOW boat πŸ˜‰ I have a searchlamp , mast , steps and a few other things including the decals to "look the part " I still have the fibre galss hull and upper wood kit for the other one that I have not started yet and going the way I am it might be an unfinished project ( unstarted even ) I am spend too much time on my other hobbies , we build full size recumbent tadpole trikes ( atomic zombie forum ) as well as fly model aircraft ( RCGroups ) regards emma
    8 years ago by twinkle
    Blog
    Info for Vosper Crash Tenders and Air ea Resue
    Some Information for all those "Fire Boat" guys. For the superstructure colour which can be described as RAF Barley grey (don't quote me on that, could be something else) I have used a variety of paints In the past. The best I came up with Involved using Dulux house hold paint and mixing It to match the colour but the nearest match In the modelling world would be Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey, the second nearest Is
    humbrol
    64. You may require a semI gloss varnish to get an closer match. There were only two Vosper crash tenders ever built were numbered 93 and 94, and these numbers were painted white. One final note which I have noticed with other RAF vessels In model form, the roundel on the bow of a crash tender should not have the yellow outer ring, the yellow ring signifies an air sea rescue boat In the RAF air sea rescue service not a marine craft section boat to which the crash tenders belong to. Hope this helps. The two boats In the class 93 & 94 of the 46ft Crash & Rescue tenders were constructed by Vosper Ltd of Portsmouth In1952 for the R.A.F. The hulls were of double skin mahogany on birch plywood framing. Powers was from two Rover Metorite engines of 375 hp each, This was a 8 cylinders V type engine of 18 litres Drive was to 2 X 3 blade props (both rotating the same way) Giving a top speed of 28 knots Fire fighting was from two 3.5' fire monitors that could spray water of foam. The power for the pumps was from a Ford V8 engine to give 5-600 g.p.m. This pump was also be used as a salvage pump. For rescue work she was fitted with a spring tow hook, line throwing equipment and rockets, stretchers and a portable davit. The two craft were taken Into service In 1952-53 at Calshot. They spent many year as experimental craft for It Is alleged that they were designed to complement the SARO princess flying boats that spent many years at Calshot. The craft were reported to have startling acceleration and could stop In there own length once the automatic 7 sec time delay came Into effect on the reverse gear. They had a turning circle of three boat lengths at 28,5 knots. Both boats were sold from service In 1958. The two boats In the class 93 & 94 of the 46ft Crash & Rescue tenders were constructed by Vosper Ltd of Portsmouth In1952 for the R.A.F. The hulls were of double skin mahogany on birch plywood framing. Powers was from two Rover Metorite engines of 375 hp each, This was a 8 cylinders V type engine of 18 litres Drive was to 2 X 3 blade props (both rotating the same way) Giving a top speed of 28 knots Fire fighting was from two 3.5' fire monitors that could spray water of foam. The power for the pumps was from a Ford V8 engine to give 5-600 g.p.m. This pump was also be used as a salvage pump. For rescue work she was fitted with a spring tow hook, line throwing equipment and rockets, stretchers and a portable davit. Both boats were sold from service In 1958.
    8 years ago by MAXTON
    Forum
    milford star
    hi,Mark it was all same colour as you day different thinning and pressures I am lucky as my brush has an adjuster under the cup for paint flow. heavier rust put on with brush any panels I use an acetate mask. a nice effect is to paint a rust line then with a flat brush dampened with thinner and do a drag down motion. I will be putting more of the boat as I go feel free to ask what ever,the colour I used is tamiya brown x-9 and for very fresh rust I use
    humbrol
    100 dont forget though the effect is determined by the colour underneath in my case white. hope it helps grant
    8 years ago by dasbootu47
    Forum
    Graupner Acrylfix paints
    HI IQS If you are still looking
    humbrol
    do a match list on there web site Tamyia also do a match list, try the Revell web site as well Regartds Mark
    8 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    fireboat update
    I have been putting this off for ages, the dreaded white line on the hull. So the hull was masked up and the white line painted with
    humbrol
    enamel, that's when I wished I had worked it out to paint over the red instead of the black, it has three coats on up until now and I guess it will still need another one. The question is, do I remove the masking tape while the last coat is still tacky or wait until the paint is hard and risk pulling some of the white line off πŸ’­
    8 years ago by AlanP
    Forum
    Paint spraying problem - can anybody help?
    I am In the process of spraying the hull sides on a 2 x scale Eezibilt mermaid with rattle can metallic blue, but I've got a bit of a 'problemette' - I can produce quite a good blue surface, or a nice metallic surface but not a single uniformly coloured surface. Best seems to be blue with a silvery metallic bloom In patches - Any had experience of this and managed to solve It? If I can't get the spray-can to work then I will fallback on airbrushing
    humbrol
    metallic blue, hopefully that should do the trick! Richard
    11 years ago by richald
    Forum
    Airbrush
    Hey Roger, If you are referring to H*****l I know the feeling have had a few myself. I am using a combination of
    humbrol
    acrylic and enamel, the acrylics for the large areas and the enamel for the fittings and small bits, mainly because of the cost of thinners. I bought a large (750ml) of grey acrylic primer from Wickes for the base coat. Alan, Please don't go there - I can get myself in enough trouble without you helping me πŸ˜‰ Shaun
    9 years ago by Flack
    Forum
    Airbrush
    Thanks Roger - I'm using
    humbrol
    enamels and it gets a bit messy. πŸ˜‘ Have to have a look at the acrylic equivalent, waters a lot cheaper than thinners 😁
    9 years ago by Flack


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