Forum

MFA 919D series geared electric motors

Pity the poor novice modeler who has NO model shops or club nearby - how do you get advice other than on forums like this........... The internet suppliers give specifications on their motors etc - but they don't give out information of the sort that it might suit a planing hull or a tug etc - and could not be expected to do so. Suppliers are also reluctant to stay on the phone too long understandably - and phone calls are expensive anyway......... And we are trying to encourage newcomers to our hobby - sad really. Plus in this country now there is very little in the way of model boat - what there is is very expensive and beyond the reach of a lot of people........

4 years ago by redpmg

Blog

WTC design.

Just a quick update today. I have spent my available time during the past week measuring and drawing all of the parts I need to fit into the WTC tube. The main tube is 500mm long and I have drawn the ballast tube with endcaps inside. I can now arrange all of the required into the available space so that I can determine the battery sizes. I think I might be able to reduce the length of the ballast tube by 40mm. This I have determined using the tube that Martin555 used with success. I can get even more water in my design if needed. Tests will resume soon on the ballast system using Martin`s servo with mounted micro switch idea. I will fit two solenoid valves and possibly non return valves as well. The only real problem I would like to solve is regarding safety. I will look for a miniature pressure switch. They are around but choosing a suitable one is a little tricky.

4 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Algerine Class Minesweeper H.M.S. Pluto

Hi Doug, This is what i was referring to. http://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/images/HMS_BRAMBLE.jpg £275.30 HMS Bramble [425] ALGERINE MINESWEEPERS These ships were built between 1942 and 1945 and were fitted with magnectic, acoustic, and mechanical sweeping equipment. It would seem that this class of ship developed from the Halcyon class of minesweeper of the 1930's still retaining some of their general appearance. These ships, having been built in the U.K. and Canada, later served in the Canadian and most Western Alliance Navys. Details of the kit Scale 1/96 Length 762m Beam 120mm Sailing weight 2.21kgs The model is based on a plated fibre glass hull. All decks are LASER CUT 1.5MM HIPS SHEET and superstructure is in 1mm printed plastic sheet format with turret, funnel, boats etc in vacformed plastic. Weapons and fine detail fittings are in cast in light alloy, and all larger are cast in lightweight plastic. Stanchions and ladders for that extra fine detail are in etched brass. Propshafts and tubes are included in this kit along with the rudder and tiller arm. THE FULL SIZE PLAN is from the D McGregor range. With its twin screws and twin motors and short length/beam ratio this makes into one of the busiest little models in our range and she has all the outstanding handling qualities of her bigger and full size sister. The close range weapons fit on this model are 4 40mm bofors guns. The kit contains a comprehensive set of instructions. Martin555.

4 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Warwick Model Boat Show.

Sounds like a date girl, and I think Caroline would like to meet you as well, we usually have our picnic stove and associated in the car on our boating days. Looking forward to seeing you both. Cheers Colin.

4 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Warwick international boat show

Just got back from a fantastic day at Warwick International model boat show. I will definitely have to go again, picked up a lot of information from the model sailing barge stand. Thanks guys, I'll have a go at a barge in the future. I took my wife and grandson with me, and they both enjoyed it, and I thought they would be bored, but the boy had fun on the pool with the lifeboats. The wife is now looking for another project, potentially a sailing barge. A big thanks to all those who took time out to explain the intricacies of their models to us. Also bought a few needed for my grandson's boat build. Should have robbed the piggy bank, as I saw loads of bargains but sadly lacked the funds. Overall we had a great day, but the drive home was terrible with flooding and road closures. Cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Response

Re: YET ANOTHER SMOKER VERSION

Re Banks JB - the one we use is closing something like 140 branches countrywide - blaming it on cash transfer facilities and online banking. We have to use online as the nearest branch is over 50km away ...... Fortunately not one of the ones being closed. All we have here are two of their ATM's - one being inside a supermarket and only available in shop hours......... As to waiting for stuff - it takes nearly a month for MB magazine to get here - and a lot of online shops wont post/ship to SA. Most model here are imported by wholesalers via Ripmax , Hobby King and the like , and then onto the hobby shops - double markups - so although there is no import duty - price is nearly double that of UK or US. Add 15% VAT for insult to injury.......... Bought some stuff from Hobby King a few years ago - customs held it up for nearly three weeks - then tried to charge demurrage..... All that was finally paid was the VAT - total delivery time 2 months and HK got two wrong. After 3 months of correspondence replacements were sent and arrived 3 weeks later......No Customs...... Wont try that again...... Try to get bits in UK via my sister and wait for someone to come over with it - still quicker than the post which sometimes never arrives...... Its all a bit like being in the armed services JB - a case of hurry up and wait - (worst trip ever was in a DC3 - left base camp at 06.30 - finally arrived at destination at 17.30 - stopped at every FAF [Forward Air Field] along the way - direct flight would have taken just over two hours)

5 years ago by redpmg

Blog

Deck Fittings

Have decided rather than the follow the instruction to build each section. I am going to build most of the deck fittings before going further in the build. Some of the instruction are a bit vague and the drawing is not to scale, it will be easier to place if already assembled. Have also made the small steps for access to superstructure from the deck as the drawing does not show any. Made with some old railing wire and plastic card chequered plate. Saw them on an old photo of the Sir Lancelot which was of the same class. Have fitted smoke generator in funnel and also fitted 2mm studs on base of funnel for better fixing to superstructure. The funnel is made from plastic drain pipe same diameter as the styrene pieces. The loudspeaker box will be fitted in the stern below the wooden slats where the ships boat sits this one is for the steam sound generator. As I didn’t like the printed sheets for fish pond and hatches have made them from strips of walnut and lime wood the same with the trawl boards. Fishpond will also be used as battery cover and front hatch will be the removable cover for the power on/off switch, the superstructure hatch is the cover over the steam whistle loudspeaker which will be fitted in the superstructure.

5 years ago by Elsrickle

Forum

Blackpool Boat Show 2019

I go for the traders mainly, saves paying p&p, and you can cherry pick the you want, also some deals going on, Component shop had a few show prices. I bought 2 x 12v-10amp pb batteries for only £13.15 each, a good saving, I think Iain has done a great job with the show, and free parking, all you had to do was write down your car reg number, simples.😐 Cheers, Peter

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Response

Re: Fire Monitors Part 1

Excellent video Rob, very interesting , must think about going to the engineering show next January.😐 cheers, Peter

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

Fast attack craft

"....Usually you post useable info, but in this case I have to vehemently disagree! And I would like to put the record straight before you lead our novice members to potential disaster, or at least an expensive disappointment!..." Well, this certainly stirred something up! And I can't see why? Perhaps RN has shares in a Lipo factory? 😉 All that I have said is standard knowledge on the subject. NiMH ARE more robust than LiPos - I can't see how anyone can disagree with that. They are more forgiving of overcharge and over-depletion. I have not said that Lipos should not be used - I use them myself - but I have stated a preference for NiMH where the benefits of Lipos are not a requirement. I have been using NiMH for around 15 years, and Lipos for about the same time. During that period I must have bought around 2 dozen packs of each type. I currently have one working LiPo pack, while all my NiMH packs work, albeit sometimes with less charge than originally. The Lipos have gone unbalanced, swollen, delaminated or punctured at some point. Lipos, when working, are phenomenal , and make miniature flying models possible. I use them for this, and would, as I have said, use them when light weight and high power are essential. But they do require that you look after them and follow the rules - in particular, not over-discharging them. If you do not treat them properly they will certainly swell and fail - I cannot see why stating this is considered scaremongering? It is this lack of robustness that makes me prefer NiMH, since I do not take particular care of my batteries. NiMH will put up with this - Lipo won't. That is the gist of what I said, it is attested by other comments on this thread which stress that you must 'follow the rules' and I can't see how stating it will lead novice members to potential disaster or expensive disappointment? I would have thought the opposite... Incidentally, your comments about the differences between Lipos and Nimh seem to cover all the good points of Lipos and the bad points of NiMH. It would be more useful to novices to see a better balanced description. For instance, recent advances in NiMH batteries have produced low self-discharge batteries - (quoting the wiki) "In October 2011 the batteries were again improved to retain up to 90% of their capacity after one year, 80% after three years and 70% after five years." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eneloop These are readily available, I have used these in emergency flashlights and can confirm that they do do 'what it says on the tin' (though I haven't had time to try out the five year claim yet!). They can be of use if your modelling practices include going to the lake at short notice. I hope this isn't going to develop into a flame war. As I said, I can't see why noting a preference for the robustness of NiMH should engender such a response...

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

T.I.D. tug

For all who asked details of my smoke machine. The case in the 1st photo I got from Maplin some years ago, I have also made some for other people using 3mm plastic card, and that works fine, or just buy a plastic lunch box and use that. You will need to secure the mister/fogger to the bottom of the case with silicon, and thread the leads through the side/top,then make a hole for the funnel, I use two different sizes to make it easier to fit in the boat. Next, a cheap! mini fan, and a 3volt source,you can see the 2x1.5v clip in the second photo, I find this is just right for pushing the steam out. Lastly, a source to change the voltage up from 12volt to 24volt, the working voltage of the mister/fogger. Make sure all seams are covered with silicon, as you can see by mine it doesn't have to be pretty to work, and only I see it! I have put a couple of Ebay links of the I use, as you can see, it is quite inexpensive......so have a go, joe😁 btw..I use a 12volt 2.1ah, and on a full tank of water,(not full, as it won't work when it's full), I get 20mins steaming.If you need anymore info, just ask😮 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-4A-Boost-Converter-3V-32V-12V-to-5V-35V-24V-Step-Up-Power-Supply-Module/252676342631 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultrasonic-Mist-Maker-Fogger-Water-Fountain-Atomizer-Air-Humidifier-24V/121548443136

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

Site glitches!

Why should I or anyone I have nowt for sale its over a month appreciate it may be a problem to reinstate it .Nevertheless what a sloppy method to post individual all over the place.I for one don't trawl through all the posts . There was a dedicated section before put it back as it was .I did not realise creating a post gave you the right to tell people what they may or may not complain about

5 years ago by camyaj

Media

Ultimate Enticement

This is a 1984 re-issue of a Lindberg Chris Craft Sport fishermen purchased used on Ebay. Some of the parts where broken and some partially assembled. The model did come with 2 MACK RC motors and some fabricated wood parts, including a template for the aft deck. The interior was assembled from quarter scale doll house except for the dinette. There are 4 underwater LED bulbs with a dedicated power supply. The running, interior and radar unit are powered by a separate systems from the hull electrics. The second Li-po battery is for backup and balast. There are number of additional added since these photos were taken including a stern seat and larger radar array .

5 years ago by Puddle-pirate

Forum

CNC boat kits...?

".......I am on a bitof a learning curve at the moment........" A few lessons I learned: 1 - Get a good, solid base-board which isn't warped. The local timber yard may have off-cuts of 3/4" ply. You will want to assemble the mechanics on a proper base, and it helps to have it available first. You will want to paint it anyway, so it will need time to dry. 2 - Get a dial indicator. An easy way to check for precision in assembly is to attach a dial indicator to the end of the Z axis and run it over the base board. It's good for other fault-finding and calibration as well. There are cheap ones on Ebay. 3 - Plan out all the wiring. I put my limit switches in as an afterthought, and found that I had wires which couldn't go in the places I wanted them to go. 4 - Wiring loom control. Consider Drag Chains, Heat-shrink tubing and Braiding. All are very cheap from Ebay. If you don't put the wiring in at assembly you won't be able to put it in later once everything is connected up... 5 - If you use a drag chain for the USB connection, you will either have to make sure that it's wide enough to take a USB plug passing through it, or cut the plug off, pass it through and re-solder it afterwards. If you do the latter, note that the shielding in a USB cable is aluminium, and won't solder. So you will need to use a connector plug which has a physical connection to the shielding, because interference can ba a problem on these machines....

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

CNC boat kits...?

The vacuum jig seems to hold very well - but there is always a danger that something may be nudged by the cutter and then cut inside it may be out of place... I found that leaving a few thou uncut keeps everything nicely in position. The ragged edges seem to be caused by moving the cutter too fast through the wood when the RPM was low. They seem to have cleared up now that I am using 6-flute cutters instead or 2-flute. I suspect that when I go to ply I will need to use a beefier drive motor and slower feed speeds - probably multi-pass as well. But I've completed a whole kit now and will put it together before moving onto ply or other hard woods. One thing I would like to do is dump a log on the work area and carve a Streamlinia out of solid. But that will have to wait for a while.... 😊

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Model Boat crew....

Another way for making extra figures similar to your technique, is to make a mold out of silicon rubber, then cast figures from two part resin, a bit safer than using HOT! white metal I think. Most can be bought from Sylmasta https://sylmasta.com/product-category/casting-mould-making/

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Forum

CNC boat kits...?

A word about the electronics and software build.... Each stepper motor is driven by a 'driver' - a little switching unit like an ESC. This does the business of sending the power to the motor coils in the right order. They are quite cheap - about £10 each. To tell each driver to operate the motors in the right order you need a control box running the right software. You can use a dedicated laptop for this, running a stripped down system called LinuxCNC, but I opted to use an Arduino, which was the option advised by the vendor. So here is a picture of the Arduino (at the bottom - you can't really see it) with a breakout board on top carrying the four drivers (which have the little blue heatsinks on them). I made up an aluminium box to put them in, and attached it to the cutting gantry. The Arduino runs a control program called GRBL. I take the plans I have drawn in DXF format, run them through some software called DXF2GCode, which turns them into G-Code, and then send that file to the Arduino via a USB connection using 'Universal GCode Sender'. All these of software are open source and free to download. The Arduino gets its power from the USB connection. The stepper motors get their power from a cheap Chinese 36v power supply, and the cutting motor gets its power from an old laptop power supply I had hanging around. If electronics frightens you then you probably won't want to do this, but the skills needed to wire up a boat motor are really as much as you need to put it all together....

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Blog

Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer

On the cabin roof is the radio aerial, the kit supplies a base in white metal, but to accommodate my aerial design I decided to machine my own out of brass. I wanted the pole to be tapered and with it being only 2mm dia I found the easiest way was to support the piece in a wooden block at the same height as the Dremel laid flat on the bench. With the piece rotating, I used a smooth file and grades of wet & dry to taper down to 0.75 dia. Next I machined the 2mm end down to 1.5mm to accept the spring, this spring will be soldered to a lower piece which then goes through the base and into the cabin where it’s bolted in position. I decided to incorporate a spring to make sure it does not get accidently bent. Soft soldering was chosen, as the silver solder would have tempered the spring. The result was really better than I could have imagined. Loud Hailer Another heavy item, first job hollow out with the Dremel and then fill with polystyrene and top with Milliput and sculpt the shape –result, the weight was halved. Next I made a frame in the same way as the one I did for the search light – (see search light) All the cabin furniture has to be mounted on the roof which is curved! I found the best way was to use Milliput. The method was as follows, 1 Drill the hole for each item in the appropriate place 2 Make sure the fastening method for each piece will hold the piece upright (I tapped the hole 8BA) 3 Make a dividing piece from PTFE baking sheet circular for most but oblong for the mast feet 4 Roughen the surface where the contact the cabin roof 5 Place the divider on the base 6 Mix a small amount of Milliput 7 Place a circular amount under each item 8 put some Vaseline on the securing bolt so it doesn’t stick 9 Pull the item down to the desired height and fasten in position then trim around the bases 10 When dry remove the item and the baking sheet, paint as required 11 sorry if this is common knowledge

5 years ago by mturpin013