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    Forum
    Site glitches!
    Why should I or anyone I have nowt for sale its over a month appreciate it may be a problem to reinstate it .Nevertheless what a sloppy method to post individual
    items
    all over the place.I for one don't trawl through all the posts . There was a dedicated section before put it back as it was .I did not realise creating a post gave you the right to tell people what they may or may not complain about
    12 days ago by camyaj
    Media
    Ultimate Enticement
    This is a 1984 re-issue of a Lindberg Chris Craft Sport fishermen purchased used on Ebay. Some of the parts where broken and some partially assembled. The model did come with 2 MACK RC motors and some fabricated wood parts, including a template for the aft deck. The interior was assembled from quarter scale doll house
    items
    except for the dinette. There are 4 underwater LED bulbs with a dedicated power supply. The running, interior and radar unit are powered by a separate systems from the hull electrics. The second Li-po battery is for backup and balast. There are number of additional
    items
    added since these photos were taken including a stern seat and larger radar array .
    4 months ago by Puddle-pirate
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    ".......I am on a bitof a learning curve at the moment........" A few lessons I learned: 1 - Get a good, solid base-board which isn't warped. The local timber yard may have off-cuts of 3/4" ply. You will want to assemble the mechanics on a proper base, and it helps to have it available first. You will want to paint it anyway, so it will need time to dry. 2 - Get a dial indicator. An easy way to check for precision in assembly is to attach a dial indicator to the end of the Z axis and run it over the base board. It's good for other fault-finding and calibration as well. There are cheap ones on Ebay. 3 - Plan out all the wiring. I put my limit switches in as an afterthought, and found that I had wires which couldn't go in the places I wanted them to go. 4 - Wiring loom control. Consider Drag Chains, Heat-shrink tubing and Braiding. All
    items
    are very cheap from Ebay. If you don't put the wiring in at assembly you won't be able to put it in later once everything is connected up... 5 - If you use a drag chain for the USB connection, you will either have to make sure that it's wide enough to take a USB plug passing through it, or cut the plug off, pass it through and re-solder it afterwards. If you do the latter, note that the shielding in a USB cable is aluminium, and won't solder. So you will need to use a connector plug which has a physical connection to the shielding, because interference can ba a problem on these machines....
    1 month ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    The vacuum jig seems to hold
    items
    very well - but there is always a danger that something may be nudged by the cutter and then
    items
    cut inside it may be out of place... I found that leaving a few thou uncut keeps everything nicely in position. The ragged edges seem to be caused by moving the cutter too fast through the wood when the RPM was low. They seem to have cleared up now that I am using 6-flute cutters instead or 2-flute. I suspect that when I go to ply I will need to use a beefier drive motor and slower feed speeds - probably multi-pass as well. But I've completed a whole kit now and will put it together before moving onto ply or other hard woods. One thing I would like to do is dump a log on the work area and carve a Streamlinia out of solid. But that will have to wait for a while.... 😊
    1 month ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Model Boat crew....
    Another way for making extra figures similar to your technique, is to make a mold out of silicon rubber, then cast figures from two part resin, a bit safer than using HOT! white metal I think. Most
    items
    can be bought from Sylmasta https://sylmasta.com/product-category/casting-mould-making/
    1 month ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    A word about the electronics and software build.... Each stepper motor is driven by a 'driver' - a little switching unit like an ESC. This does the business of sending the power to the motor coils in the right order. They are quite cheap - about Β£10 each. To tell each driver to operate the motors in the right order you need a control box running the right software. You can use a dedicated laptop for this, running a stripped down system called LinuxCNC, but I opted to use an Arduino, which was the option advised by the vendor. So here is a picture of the Arduino (at the bottom - you can't really see it) with a breakout board on top carrying the four drivers (which have the little blue heatsinks on them). I made up an aluminium box to put them in, and attached it to the cutting gantry. The Arduino runs a control program called GRBL. I take the plans I have drawn in DXF format, run them through some software called DXF2GCode, which turns them into G-Code, and then send that file to the Arduino via a USB connection using 'Universal GCode Sender'. All these
    items
    of software are open source and free to download. The Arduino gets its power from the USB connection. The stepper motors get their power from a cheap Chinese 36v power supply, and the cutting motor gets its power from an old laptop power supply I had hanging around. If electronics frightens you then you probably won't want to do this, but the skills needed to wire up a boat motor are really as much as you need to put it all together....
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    Radio Aerial and Loud Hailer
    On the cabin roof is the radio aerial, the kit supplies a base in white metal, but to accommodate my aerial design I decided to machine my own out of brass. I wanted the pole to be tapered and with it being only 2mm dia I found the easiest way was to support the piece in a wooden block at the same height as the Dremel laid flat on the bench. With the piece rotating, I used a smooth file and grades of wet & dry to taper down to 0.75 dia. Next I machined the 2mm end down to 1.5mm to accept the spring, this spring will be soldered to a lower piece which then goes through the base and into the cabin where it’s bolted in position. I decided to incorporate a spring to make sure it does not get accidently bent. Soft soldering was chosen, as the silver solder would have tempered the spring. The result was really better than I could have imagined. Loud Hailer Another heavy item, first job hollow out with the Dremel and then fill with polystyrene and top with Milliput and sculpt the shape –result, the weight was halved. Next I made a frame in the same way as the one I did for the search light – (see search light) All the cabin furniture has to be mounted on the roof which is curved! I found the best way was to use Milliput. The method was as follows, 1 Drill the hole for each item in the appropriate place 2 Make sure the fastening method for each piece will hold the piece upright (I tapped the hole 8BA) 3 Make a dividing piece from PTFE baking sheet circular for most
    items
    but oblong for the mast feet 4 Roughen the surface where the
    items
    contact the cabin roof 5 Place the divider on the
    items
    base 6 Mix a small amount of Milliput 7 Place a circular amount under each item 8 put some Vaseline on the securing bolt so it doesn’t stick 9 Pull the item down to the desired height and fasten in position then trim around the bases 10 When dry remove the item and the baking sheet, paint as required 11 sorry if this is common knowledge
    2 months ago by mturpin013


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