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    RoMarin/Krick Dusseldorf Fire Boat.
    I have been looking forward to starting this build for some time. It looks like this will be an interesting model to build but mainly I look forward to setting up the 16 channels required to give full function to all of the special features. The Dusseldorf is one of three identical boats built for use in the Ruhr area of Germany. The boats are equipped for disaster situations, (they must have known I was going to build it)πŸ˜€. They can be used for ship fires, oil leaks or as a port facility at risk of explosion. The fire monitors, radar, boat crane, lighting and anchor winch will all be working if I can sort out the controls. The fire monitors are of particular interest because if I get things right, they will swivel, lift and lower and shoot water. We will see. As stated in the instructions, I read most of them to see how things looked. I got bored at page six so forgot that bit. The next stage was to check the contents against the bill of materials. There must be 1000 pieces. I checked the large pieces and gave the rest a miss also. Not a good start I hear you cry. You will get used to it. I proceeded to remove the stand parts and lightly sanded off the connection remains. I assembled it using super glue but I will strengthen the inner corners with Epoxy later. I stuck some draft excluder tape to all of the edges which contact the hull for safety. Next stage was to trim off the excess material at deck level of the Hull. With 1.5mm thick ABS this is quite a job especially considering that the boat measures around 2.8 Metres all around. I used a Stanley
    to remove the bulk of the material followed by different sized files to trim to size. This process takes a lot of care so that not too much material is removed. The hull has a rather crude sort of line to work to but I think I will put more reliance on my eye and a two foot steel rule. I still have a little filing of the edges to do before I will be completely happy as this edge will be visible on the completed model. According to the instructions my next stage is to fit the rudders, motors and prop shafts. A job for next week.
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Work with Balsa wood
    Absolutely JBπŸ‘ Martin, soon you'll tell the hard from the soft by just looking at it. Hard is closer grained with a more compact surface. In the 'old days' they used to colour code on the ends; green for soft, red for hard. Or was it t'other way round? πŸ™„ Do they still do that? If you don't like the pong of dope (smells like Pear Drops) you can use diluted (with water) EzeKote. That's what I did on the balsa block I used to repair the stern of my ancient fish cutter. Makes the blocks harder and easy to sculpt for filling in awkward curves at bow and stern. Cutting: the softer the balsa the thinner and sharper the
    (scalpel) or razor saw. Don't press too hard or you'll squash it like a cheesecakeπŸ˜‹ Doug 😎
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Re: Fashion show!
    Excellent keep it up. Just an observation should he be wearing a
    so that should he get tangled up he could cut himself free. Martin.
    1 year ago by Martin555
    CNC boat kits...?
    "...I suppose depending on the cutting head you will be able to cut thin sheet plastic?...." The basic machine is just a precise 3-D positioning device. You then tie anything you want onto the end, depending on the job you want to do. A router or a laser will cut wood, a milling bit will cut metal, a
    will cut vinyl or paper. A plastic extrusion head will let you build up plastic shapes, a pen would let you write letters, and I suppose a paint brush would let you create watercolours... For every material there is a workholding requirement, and a set-up and run optimisation process to undertake, but the principle is simple.
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    CNC boat kits...?
    ".....I have the files to make a drag
    that works with a stanley blade, it is 3D printed and has a steel shaft mounted in ball bearings. Some commercial ones are over 250 quid!....." Sounds like a lot of work. Here is the one I got - I see the price has gone up to Β£4.49! This comprises an aluminium housing with a magnetised steel shaft in it mounted on ball bearings, and 15 precision
    blades in carbide - different angles for different thicknesses of material. I have mounted it in a Delrin collar, and it looks as if it will perform perfectly. Lot less time and trouble (and cost) than making your own... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15pcs-30-45-60-Degree-For-Roland-Cricut-Plotter-Vinyl-Cutter-Blade-Holder/131906788936?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I would love to get the plans I drew 'checked out' by a third party who has a precision cutter. My early ones are rather poor - I think I am getting better, but I am still likely to make mistakes. The PT boat would be a good choice - not too much wood and it makes up quite nicely. Of course you would still need to make the fittings - but direction is given on the web site. The figures shown below are cheap Chinese railway figures - about Β£2 for a dozen - modded and painted up...
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    Hintsand tips - Decals made easy
    "....It's a lot easier and cheaper then buying a vinyl cutter and learning how to use it. It might not cost much more than a pack of decal paper...." I can't report on the 'learning how to use it' part, since I haven't started, but having a CNC machine means that you can add all sorts of tools onto the cutting end. At the moment I just use a small router to cut balsa - I would use a bigger one or a laser to cut ply - and I have just bought a 'swiveling
    ' set to cut vinyl. Cost of a mount and 15 blades - Β£4.37. Should let me cut any size or shape character out of vinyl (or anything else) sheet...
    1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
    water is wet and so was I.
    Hi Colin, Very glad there seems to be no serious damage to you, your pride excepted!πŸ€” Don't know which phone you have but you can usually flip them open with a screwdriver or pen
    . Look carefully around the seam of the back and you should find a recess about 3/8" long in the rear cover. Insert a flat blade screwdriver here and twist sharply to open it (Swiss Army
    is good for thisπŸ˜‰), then you can run your thumbnail round the seam to flip the back off and whip out the battery. Same procedure as when inserting a SIM card etc. If you haven't removed the battery from the phone then electrolytic corrosion has probably totalled it 😭 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Maybe one of your SAS mates can rustle up a Robo suit? 😁 Who dares .....
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Re: Window frames
    Do you have any printer company's/shops near you, go and ask if they have any used litho plate, it comes in various thickness's but can be cut smoothly using a Stanley
    , and perfect for window frames.😊 cheers Peter😐
    1 year ago by Rookysailor
    Planking of Sponsons
    Whoops, I just noticed that I had not allowed for the planked area of the sponsons. After a bit of head scratching decided to cut out a layer of plywood. Using a dermel fitted with a disc cutter, chisel and carving
    cut out a layer. This was then planked with 1x4mm lime strips.
    1 year ago by Hillro

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