Forum

LiPo batteries

Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat model. I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Sandgrounder, Good stuff from Canabus BUT- If you are going to parallel connect batteries there are some safety rules to observe to prevent potential fires on board - ESPECIALLY IF USING TWO LiPos!! The two batteries must be identical types with the same capacity and state of charge. Otherwise the one with higher voltage will try to charge the other. This can result in high currents which represent a high fire risk - most especially with LiPo Power 😡 To prevent this you need a pair of high current blocking diodes between the batteries - fast Schottky diodes. If you are electronically minded this is easy to do yourself. If not, Component Shop market an Action Electronics module to do the job. Spec attached as PDF. Link to purchase is below You can buy the board here (No I don't have shares in the company but have used several A.E. modules and they are well made good quality👍) https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p103-parallel-power-board.html I think 15 quid is a good price to protect the rest of your investment 😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

All hooked up, nowt happens...

Hi Martin, Looks like this one XXD HW30A 30A Brushless Motor ESC For Airplane Quadcopter Which means it ain't got no backuds! But I don't suppose that bothers you. Attached is the manual as pdf. Before you can run the ESC you have to program the type of battery; LiPo or NiMH. The ESC then sets the correct cut off voltage to protect the battery from deep discharge. See second page of pdf file for instructions. The ESC has a 5V 2A BEC. if you use a separate RX battery you MUST disconnect the small red wire from the RX plug! Bon chance, Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

RC....mixers? And other unknowns..

Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri Schnellboot, ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

6 years ago by BW3

Forum

Launch ELAINE,

Hi Colin, As discussed on the phone; 2V grid bias, 90V anode supply! In those days they had 90V dry batteries, they musta run it 'sumow'! 😁 Don't give up so easy! Nowadays how about a 24S LiPo? Or even Martin's 'big box' solution. http://www.batterysupports.com/lion-lipo-nbsp-88v-nbsp-24s-c-32_62.html 24V chargers / balancers won't be cheap though🤔 2V is no sweat; 2V SLA, a la Glow Plug starter. How big is the boat an' how much weight can she carry? My first car radio was an ancient Echo valve job, with an inductive inverter bolted under the dash to produce the 90-100v for the bottles. Took me ages to find a way to mount it so it didn't make the whole dash hum like a swarm of bees😲 Later there was briefly a generation of 'low voltage' valves. Soon superseded by transistors from 1948 on. (And NO I'm not pre '48 vintage, well not quite!😉) Looking forward to your progress reports. Would really love to witness one of your displays. Please keep me posted about dates. All the best to you both, Cheers, Doug 😎 PS building a transmitter to match won't be easy. A TX on the right frequency is relatively easy, the tricky bit is the 'modulation' for the control functions! Hats off to your guy 'up the road' if he manages it! I'd really really love to see THAT!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LiPo batteries

Hi Pete, welcome er Home?😉 I'm not too surprised at your results with the new LiPos. That's exactly why it is recommended to put new LiPos through about min 6 max 10 charge / discharge cycles to 'condition' them, i.e. get 'em used to their working life😉 I'm not surprised at the short run times either. I seem to recall you have two hefty motors in your boat! Let's say (for simplicity) the motors draw 1.8A each. Therefore one motor would (theoretically!) run max 1 hour on a fully charged 1800mAh (1.8Ah) battery. Two such motors only half an hour etc etc. If (more realistically) they draw 10A together (probably more!) then they can theoretically run at that current for 0.18h or 10.8 minutes on a fully charged battery. QED. Theoretically cos you don't want to empty the battery and run it into 'Deep Discharge', i.e. less than MINIMUM 2.7V per cell. They don't like that and get stroppy; don't charge properly or worse 😲 You get the drift! 😉 If there's a danger of the river freezing over - you've got 4 months to build an Ice Breaker😁😁So get cracking😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

hi Will, I agree with replacing the SLA. if you don't want to go LiPo cos of chargers etc etc how about a 5 cell 6V NiMh? much lighter than the SLA For the ESC switch to the Mtroniks Viper Marine Micro 10. That handles motors up to 550 can size, 10A motor limit, and runs off 4.8 to 12V 👍👍 I use these very happily on ships running 2 or 4 540s. A destroyer and a cruiser. Both about 54". http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-micro-Marine-10.htm You can get 'em about 5 quid cheaper here https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Mtroniks-marine-Speed-Controllers.html There are also 15 and 20A versions if you want to run both motors off one ESC 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LiPo batteries

A chaque un a son goût John 😉 I'm not tooo surprised at your NiMh results. But I also think that you are correct that they won't last the proverbial 5 minutes on load. I had a similar experience last year when I retired and took stock of everything lying around in boxes and shelves in the so called workshop😲 Some also measured above the 'dead' voltage but collapsed within seconds of applying a load; a 540 motor running offload. They were consigned to the Great Recycling Centre in the sky 🤔 The NiCads had preceded them by a decade or so! Since then I've restocked with LiPos where I have brushless and LiPo safe ESCs and NiMh for the 'brushed ships with older pre Lixx EScs. For heavier jobs like Graf Spee (3 x 600), HMS Belfast (4! x 385), U25 (2 x 385) I've restocked with 6V 4Ah SLAs. Have started compiling an XL spreadsheet to keep track of them; when last used / charged etc. Oooops! Just discovered that Grauer Burgunder is an excellent cleaner for my inductive mouse pad 😲 Prost allseits! Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LiPo batteries

I don't intend using Lipos when I get back to actually boating and flying as I feel they are too much bother. Lion orABC or similar for me I think.I'll have to think more on it. I have Nimhs and A FEW Nicads .The Nimhs I know for certain are 13 yrs old at least and are showing 11.2v at 82% charge despite not being charged for 4 yrs. The Nicads 9.4v and 42% charge. Not as good; as we might expect but the others really surprised me when I metered them out.8 yrs lying in a blokes planes,boats and boxes and I got them 5 yrs ago.I charged them all and they've not been charged since.We'll have to see what happens under load etc. They might not last 5mins.🤔 John O/T👍 I know some of you won't believe me so tuff. J😎

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

LiPo batteries

Hi Pete, Do you have a Battery Capacity Checker? Like in the pics? Open circuit voltage is NOT a reliable indication of the battery's charge state😲 As you can see in the pics my two bats, 1 LiPo one NiMh, both show voltages above the nominal value. But the capacity / charge state less than half!! Be warned! Believe I did suggest to you to note the capacities before you left Hungary last time. Whatever - Have Fun😉 Cheers, Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Which battery?

Thank you for that, it has helped a lot. I have liPo in another fast boat and do worry about the safety, I keep and charge it in a fire proof bag. I will need weight at the front of the boat so Lead Acid will probably assist. The build is good fun. Thanks again

6 years ago by Brianaro

Forum

Which battery?

I tend to use LiPo's but they can be temperamental and need the correct charger. They are smaller and lighter than NiMH and give you a much greater output. NiMH are similar in size to LiPo but are heavier and will not have the same sort of power available. Lead acid are the easiest to use in terms of charging but are much heavier and larger then the other 2 types but tend to be cheaper. Lead acid are a good option if you need the ballast or are not limited on physical size. Cost is also a consideration a good quality charger can be an hefty investment but will serve you well and if you buy the correct type will charge/discharge any battery type that you have. I have heard horror stories about LiPo's bursting into flames, which my son did with his RC car. this was down to him not understanding this type of battery. I have not had good results in terms of endurance with NiMh but Lipo's if correctly selected will last much longer, a word of warning here though, they will stop working suddenly with no indication like running slow etc so if using LiPo's you will, need an alarm on each battery. Lead acid is much easier to in terms of Voltage either 6 or 12v with real problems when connecting them in series or parallel for use or charging, a little harder with the other two types but not impossible. This has probably confused you even more but I am sure you will come the correct battery. I have to confess I have an interest in this build as I intend it to be my next project👍

6 years ago by marlina2

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Hi Pete, since you are in the US try here, the OTHER RS😉:- https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?findify_limit=24&findify_q=wrapping%20wire Personally I prefer stranded wire as it is more flexible and less prone to break if you often have to remove and remake connections, like when you take the cabin off! it's slightly thicker so it's more a question of 'Will it fit?' https://www.radioshack.com/products/22-gauge-hookup-wire-3-pack-25-feet-red-black-green Some model shops have (or used to!) a really thin stranded wire, as used for tiny 'rice grain' bulbs'. 2nd question: I assume your tug has an 800mAh NiMh battery like mine did. Correct me if I'm wrong, I don't know the new models. I propose to change mine for a 2200mAh NiMh. Can't use LiPo cos the Brushed ESC isn't LiPo safe; i.e. with built in cut off if the battery falls to 3.0V per cell - lowest safe LiPo discharge voltage. 3rd Question - changing motors; I've often wondered that!😲 Up to now I don't see any reason to. Maybe those guys want to enter Towing Competitions!? I don't. Also some folks are just not happy unless they are tinkering and 'improving' 😉 I might try to quieten the gearbox down a bit though 🤔 Teflon grease perhaps!? Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Longer run time

Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now? Outrunners generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.

6 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Longer run time

Hi, Lead acid doesn't like delivering the high currents brushless motors want. They are more suited to long term low currents. Go for a LiPo, 3 or 4S, something 7AH plus should keep you going for a while. Don't put batteries in parallel as one will inevitably try to charge the other, unless you have a hi power diode board in between them to prevent that. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Thanks Doug, I'll copy that down and pin it to the wall! H, the LiPo in the TX has just 4 gold pads on one end. No way to charge it anywhere else. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Hi Martin, No need to get yer knickers in a twist 😲 With the NiMh just stick 'em on your iMax every 2 months and run 'em through a discharge / charge cycle. Otherwise in three months they'll probably be Dodo-like 🤔 NiMh batts lose about 1% charge per day. So, assuming fully charged to start with, they will die in about three months. They should not be discharged below 1.0V per cell or they most likely will not recover and will not take a charge anymore. Your TX LiPo you have no control over so just rely on the charger in the TX. Over winter just switch it on every month or so and check if the red LED lights. if it does stick it on charge until the green LED lights again. Your other LiPo you can give a Storage charge with the iMax. Check it with your Capacity Tester now and again. Storage charge will probably indicate 30 to 50%. if it's less than 30% put it on a Storage charge again. Voltage per cell should never be allowed to go below 3.0V MINIMUM. Start a Battery Diary!! Cheers, Doug 😎 Back to hull sanding for me 😡 P'ing down again today so no outdoor spraying🤔 Just discovered construction fault in my fish cutter😲 First hull planks were set flush with the keel bottom instead of leaving about 1/4" of keel showing 😭 To saw or not to saw ? That is the question!!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Mornin' Martin, You don't need to cycle LiPos !!! Play 'silly buggers' with it and you might bugger it! 😡 Just use it normally and charge it when the red lamp appears on the TX front indicating low voltage. Keep an eye on it and unplug the USB charger lead as soon as the LED turns to green. You could also use your Capacity Tester to check the LiPo status, IF it will connect to it. Sounds like it has a very non-standard plug? Pic? The cycling is for NiMH batts to minimise the memory effect. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Just checked the manual and saw the battery connector! You can forget connecting the battery to any other charger or the Tester 🤔

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

I guess the imax would, Haverlock, but for the fact that the LiPo in the Tx. has it's own built in connectors on the end of the case which connect with four sprung thingies in the Tx.'s battery box, so I suppose it has to be charged in situ, like a 'phone or a screwdriver/drill. I'll have to just play silly buggers with it to cycle it. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

If the charge lead plugs into the transmitter while the LiPO is still connected it probably has the needed electronics to limit the charge. Failing that you can charge the LiPO from your main charger just plug the LiPO lead into the charger balance port

6 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Hi Doug, the battery in the new FlySky Tx is a 1s LiPo, so 3.7volts. it's 800 Mah and the set comes with a charge lead from a USB port. But they're 5 Volts, aren't they? So wouldn't that damage it? And they don't cut off when charged do they? Chris's efags are done that way as is her phone and I had a 4 port USB thingy in the glove compartment of me Reliant Fox for Chris's fags and phones. Now I have a neat tower of 6 mains sockets and 4 USB ports and they are down as 5 volts too. I have it to use shorter leads on all my small power tools and to charge stuff. As long as I'm not risking frying a LiPo, I'll be happy! Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Right, thanks, Doug, I think I get that. I need to get a Tamiya female connector with 4mm plugs on tother end for the nimh packs, although they could be dead too by now. I didn't get a Spektrum combo as I knew I could get a perfectly good Rx. cheap and as ever I have to watch what I spend carefully. I didn't expect Greeno to flog me a dead 'un. So this time I bought FlySky and in order to get it for an amazing 20 quid, it turned out to be one of those pistol jobbies. I don't like the look of them, I must say. I couldn't think of anything worse than buggy racing, BUT that's what comes with a 20 quid spend. I might make a ship's wheel to go on the steering twiddler On the yacht the sails will be going out as the throttle goes forward and in when it's pulled back. Seems logical to me. Thanks for the info on the charger bits, but could you tell me how long to charge the LiPo in the Tx? There's nothing in the instructions about it as it must be a modern upgrade. The leaflet says put in 4 newly charged AAs! Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Evenin' Martin, OK- 1. Your NiMhs have Tamiya plugs. 2. Correct charge lead for those would be the one in your last pic. BUT; it puzzles me that it seems to have one 4mm plug, OK, and one 4mm socket?? if that IS the case; Why? Should have two plugs to go in the charger. Change it for one of your new 4mm plugs. 3. You can charge the LiPo with the lead second from right. The 'bricks' are 'T' or 'XT' connectors.They look like XT60. Common on LiPos. Select LiPo and 'Auto' on the charger and it will do the rest. Don't forget to plug in the little white Balancer plug so the charger knows what it is charging and can balance the cells. Guess the next question will be:- 'But the white plug is too big to fit the charger'! if so you need an adaptor! See pic. The adaptor is in the middle; 'XH Adaptor'. Plugs on batteries are XH, sockets on chargers the smaller EH. it's a conspiracy to force us to buy adaptor boards or cables 😡 However, if the LiPo hasn't been used or charged for years I don't hold out much hope for it 🤔 At the bottom of my pic you can see one of my capacity / cell voltage testers. Glad the FlySky package works. What does a Luddite learn from that? Buy TX and RX together as a so called 'Combo' and they come ready bound, saving a lot of F'ing and Blinding 😉 Was very surprised you bought a car pistol grip with trigger throttle. Might be OK for throttle (cars are usually 'digitally driven'; i.e. Flat Out or Stop!) But I wonder how you'll get on with that on a sail winch 😲 Bon chance mon ami 👍 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. it went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. it was sent to me with 2 small outrunner brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? it all works, perfectly, out of the box. it's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! it musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? it currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Evening, Doug, or is it morning? Just had a well earned rest having had the family round for Fathers' Day. Now catching up with the pootah. BTW, I had a garden full of blue and purple Lupins till the big breeze blew 'em all down recently. My star was a plant I didn't knowingly sew and that was an amazing mixture on the same stems of purple alternating with yellow. Gorgeous. Anyway, Kakos. Yes I have quite a few and as I was given 2 original little Marinecraft hulls, I have earmarked two of my mint, new in red boxes Kakos for those with little AAA 3-at-a- time flat packs which even have switches. I wish we could still get Ever-Ready or Vidor batteries. Remember them? Can get scans though and my Sea Urchin has a styrene home made AA flat case ready for the daughter to print me out an Ever Ready bell flat pack, just like yours. The brass contacts aren't a problem for an old metal basher like me. Your Sea Scout looks nice and I would say at 24" it would be about 1/16th to 1/12th. 24 feet would be a reasonable size for a sport fisherman or inshore cruiser. But in 1/16th scale at 32 feet I would say the style of the model and the use of the boat would be best represented by that combo. Just looking at some info on the FlySky Tx I've got coming (it's already been posted) and find it uses no fewer than 8 AA cells...12volts! Ye Gods, why? OK, I can get two packs of NiMhs, but then that wouldn't be 12 volts, would it? it would be 9.6Volts. Would it even work? So, on further checking, I notice that several people have gone for the LiPo path, which means a 4s at a more acceptable 11.1Volts. Now I also see that a few have gone for the LiFe option, which I much prefer the sound of as they are a lower fire risk and keep a charge in storage for ages. But they would only be 9.9Volts as LiFe cells are 3.3 volts each. Would 9.9 volts be enough I wonder for a nominally 12 volt Tx. I'm assuming that if people with no objection to NiMhs have been using those for the rechargeability, then the Tx will, in fact, accept 9.6Volts. So, logically, a 9.9Volt LiFe would be OK, do you agree? I'm thinking down the line a bit after I'm used to it. My Imax magic blue box of chargery caters for LiFe cells too. Steering teddies, et al, yeah, I can come up with some mechanical magic. My nickname with little gent, Lothar, at Wolfsburg was Mekanist (spelling), as I was always making little mechanisms for VW and SEAT cars. I made a rolling TV monitor that replaced the passenger airbag in the Passat CM2, which also had headrest TVs for back seat passengers and a wireless internet laptop built in to the rear seat central arm rest. A palm computer could come out of the dash using a mechanism that I designed and made and for which VW got a patent, with me as nominated inventor! Never made me a penny extra of course, but it was nice to know. I did a static model of a 1/12th scale Riva where, if you turned the model Cadillac (yes it is, really!) steering wheel, the rudders moved via a worm and wheel steering box and two home made Universal joints! Gawd knows why. I just thought it might win me some column inches in Classic Boat....Nah! You might find that 6" figures are more available for 1/12th scale boats than 4 1/2" figures for 1/16th, but I have to find or even make some for my Crash Tender. I look out for dollies at boot fairs and Sunday markets. I got a very square jawed geezer, 12" tall for my 1/6th scale Darby One Design and he fits, thanks to bendy bits. On your sports fisherman you need some arrogant bastard to be standing with one arm up on the screen and just the one on the wheel. Think Audi driver in a boat. Up yer arse or in yer way, but always thinking the sun shines out of his primary orifice. Keep my socks dry? I was bought a pair of Granddad socks by the two little horrors today along with a chocolate Marmite pot and a Smurfs do Pop CD, which they insisted I play during the barbie! They've done the Smurf wind up since they were old enough to crawl because they know I despise the Dutch ghouls Right, bedtime I suppose. Compost and Busy Lizzies tomorrow, she tells me. Yes, Ramona, my love.... Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Doug, what gave you the idea that I spent all that on my Spektrum DX5e? it cost me 45 quid from somewhere up North, brand new. The Rxs were, I thought, too much, so I got an Orange for 8 quid. I got the Spektrum because I was considering doing aircraft. 4 footers, scale, so not needing anything fancy, but costs of everything else stopped that. if they did a 2 function set cheap, I'd have had it. No chance selling the DX5e as it will have been superceded at least twice since I bought mine, probably at least once since I first removed it from its box! The Tx., isn't complicated. I was careful NOT to buy one that needed a degree in pooterism to operate. it's a toy boat fer Krissakes...go left, go right, speed up, slow down, stop, maybe go backuds, although my kind of real boats rarely do. I'd use my old REP single channel if some toad hadn't stole it. But it doesn't stand me in that much. This new Rx. which states DX5e compatibility is 7 quid. After that, if it don't work it will be back to the 27 meg. or nothing at all (much better exercise). As to the battery capacity thing, it is exactly the same to look at as the ones you linked me to, but, although it didn't say it didn't do Nixx, the fact is it doesn't. On the box is a row of x's where the facilities are shown under NiCd and NiMh. Sending it back would cost almost as much as the thing cost in the first place. in the unlikely event that I ever get any LiPos, it'll do for those. As to the NiMhs, I'll put them through a discharge recharge cycle on the imax thing according to what you and Haverlock have said. Then, just do the same when I've finished sailing. I use this stuff so rarely I suppose I should think again about whether to get any more stuff at all. is it possible to constantly cycle the batteries during the long winter fallow period? Should they be discharged by running a motor or can one trust the imax to do the job? Once again, thanks for your time, Doug. I do appreciate your efforts to help out the Luddite. BTW, when I bought the DX5e it really was the cheapest option, trust me! Now, I'd probably get one of those cheapies that are sold by the same outfit I bought my DX5e from, but they weren't around then. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲 There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍 In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉 NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉 Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. rs use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉 Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

hi martin using the imax b6 for the basics is pretty simple once you switch it on you short press the first button (battery type) to select the type of battery lipo,nihm,nicd,leadgel once you have selected your battery type and all leads are connected just long press the last button on the right (start) and it well start charging the battery, but if charging a lipo you will need to short press the start button again for it to start charging.if you want to stop the charger mid way just short press the battery type button. hope this helps Ron

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Hi Martin, 1. What the blue blazes is a wall wart? 🤔 2. You can't do any harm to the RC gear with an under charged battery👍 But if you use it before charging it you may drive it below it's damage threshold of 1.1V per cell if you use it too much in that state. A word of warning: some RXs and ESCs don't like more than 6.0V (e.g. Action electronics/Component Shop) and a fully charged NiMh can be more than that so check the specs of your RX and ESC first! 3. Get yourself a simple battery capacity checker, see attached pics of the two I have. As you can see, they all look the same except for plastic colour and brand name. They only cost few quid and save a lot of ruined batteries and cost/heartache😉 Available from HobbyKing etc etc. They can check voltage and capacity. For LiPos they check individual cells. For NiCad or NiMh it just checks total voltage and capacity as most NiMh don't have external connections to individual cells like the LiPos do for balancing the cells. As I still have some hi power NiMh drive batteries, for ESCs that are not LiPo safe, I made a simple JR/Tamiya adaptor to connect to the monitor. In my pics you can see the % charge / capacity display. Some show only around 46% cos they are 'as delivered' with a storage charge only. Before use they need fully charging. 4. Re Charger: Just downloaded the manual - I'll get back to you on that when I've read it. Now it's 'Eat'n time' 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

What Li-po?

It's a great old-timer ( it was my boy dream back in time, BTW s... I'm getting old 😱) Stay with 540's and go for LiPo's, for the difference in weight vs capacity you will get a very long time on the water. But you need to get a proper high quality balancing charger to take care of your LiPo's. I have changed to LiPo's in almost all my models.

6 years ago by Tica

Forum

What Li-po?

Hi Yngvegr, basically I agree with Flack👍 But if you want to go step by step and test it with the 540s first (will give you a Datum to compare with brushless at a later stage) then- Brushed have no problem with LiPos, or any other battery chemistry for that matter😉 For the voltage anything from 6 to 12V is fine for the 540. I have two 540s in my 135cm destroyer and she ran just fine on a 6VSLA, with a relay to switch a second one in series for 'All Ahead Emergency'! Higher capacity brings not only more sailing time but also more weight! Suggest you weigh the existing batteries and check the waterline and trim in the 'domestic test tank' before you buy the biggest batts you can find😉 If you do go LiPo don't forget to buy an appropriate charger and a Capacity Tester as well!!! Whatever you do, have fun doing it, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Dremel Battery Pack!

Here in Old Munich as well, washed out my Sea Scout trial planned for today😭 Looks like being and rainy and thundery week. Got everything packed in the rucksack ready to go if it brightens up; now let me see ... selection of drive batteries to test, in LiPo bag - check, Capacity / cell tester - check, TX and spare batts - check, Camcorder (batt fully charged) - check, Drying cloth - check, Basic tool set & Mini-multimeter- check, Bath towel if I have to swim again - 😡 Inflatable rescue kayak - !? Essential provisions (just a wee dram Officer) 😋 - check, Foam block boat stand - check, OH!! THE BOAT!! 😲 Might stick the PTB in the car as well, just to try it before I start on the reno and upgrade / conversion to PT109. in for a penny .....! Happy Dremelling Ed, mind yer fingers! Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Radio in a yacht

Hi all, Whilst I can make almost anything, I have absolutely no idea how to install modern R/C gear in a model, much less a yacht. I have an Orange Rx which has 6 channels for some reason, but I only need 2. BTW, when did functions become channels? I grew up with proportional being 2 channels per function. Anyway, that's a 2.4 doodah. I have a GWS sail winch a drum jobbie. I also have a few different servos for the rudder, but I don't know what voltage they are. I will stuff 4 pen cells in a holder and therefore get 4.8 volts, is that right? This will all fit a treat on a removable piece of ply which I can secure with a slider at one end and a wingnut at tother. Said ply with all gear will slide through the main companionway with that item removed. So, how do I know which servos will work for steering? Will they work with a 2.4 Gg set? Or must I buy new? Will the Rx be OK sited near the battery pack and servos? And how the hell does one "bind" the Tx to the Rx? I've had the Tx for 3 years and it ain't yet out of its box. It's a Spektrum Dx5e. I'm using NiMhs in the battery pack as I don't understand LiPos and will only be using the yacht occasionally. And I can charge NiMhs with a wall charger. I have fancy metallic blue thing that does everything, but the Chenglish instructions defeated me, so it hasn't been out of its box either. (Get the impression I ain't big on working models, folks?) Any info/instructions/encouragement gratefully recieved. And anything helpful about rigging the damned thing under the deck is welcome too! No idea where to start there. I have very limited space through companionways and deck lights which are all removable, but smallish, if evenly spaced. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Radio in a yacht

Right chaps, firstly many thanks for your suggestions. I won't be doing LiPos, because the charging is too complicated for me. I can't read the instructions of my fancy charger so it remains in its box. I forgot that I can get NiMhs in sealed packs, so that'll be something I get hold of, although the shop had more out of stock than in! Secretary, I liked the look of that servo you linked me to and will be getting one. Norman, I have today picked up my Spektrum DX5e from my daughter's place where it was in store. I found it whilst looking for something else as always! I already have the Orange Rx and can now try binding it, when I have some batteries for both items. I also have 27meg gear, three different lots and WILL be using it in my classic speedboat models. I waste as little as possible! I have now settled on a continuous loop for the sail control, which doesn't need spring tension, though haven't decided a good way to attach the sheets to the loop or how to tell when the loop has gone as far as it dare before getting a bit mixed up. But I have sorted out the plank system by making one section trap a second, both of which can be removed separately. I found a gear and shaft out of an old printer which I chucked in the lathe and turned a groove in for the loop line. Then I found a use finally for that 6mm ball race I've had in my drill drawer for years! it was an interference fit on the shaft. I had some PTFE plate for another task and in some spare I made a hole that the ball race pushes into a treat, below it an identical plate supports the other end of the shaft, PTFE being very low friction. All this levels the return "pulley" with the servo drum. I only have a limited length of run for the loop line, but it should be enough. it's all I got anyway. About 10" between pulley and drum centres. if I attach the sheet part way down the boom instead of the end I should have enough movement. So, progress. My son-in-law supplied some bike gear cable for the rudder actuation as the rudder stock is at an extreme, typically cutter, angle. A hunt through the supplies (Pringles tins) gave up enough aluminium tube to guide the cable. Alas, I installed with lots of epoxy the rudder tube and it turns out to be 4.5mm bore! Gawd knows where that came from. The tube built into the back of the rudder itself is 4 mm. So that'll be some lathe work ahead. All good fun between the gardening chores. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

It's a sad day!.

Oliver Tiger and Gannet? Oh be still my beating heart! I remember seeing a Gannet and a Channel island Special at Victoria when I was a kid with my Dad. Even he was impressed. And Olive Cockman had a Westbury Seal she'd built herself and fitted in a large cruiser, which she used for straight running and steering, where you nominated a spot on the lake side and set off your model with a fixed rudder. The nearer you got to your nominated spot the more points you got. Never hear of it these days. R/C doesn't appeal to me apart from steering a yacht, although free-sailing is still appealing to me. I have engines, but I haven't got any in a boat as I could never get the things to start. I just like having them around and running them screwed to an outbuilding, when they'll run! I can't be doing with all the fuss of LiPos and charging them properly. Too expensive, so it's NiMhs for me, charged in a wall charger. but it's really building stuff I like to do. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

LiPo batteries

Hi all, Lithium-Ion and Li-Po batteries do not take kindly to being stored long term fully charged. When they are new they will do it but after 2 to 3 years of intermittant use, can start to swell a bit and that is where the dangers start. When you give these cells the final run of the season and they show a charge in the the 3.3 to 3.5 (or so) volts per cell then they can be stored relatively safely. (This is called a holding or factory charge) Re start them with a balanced charge before you next use them. Do not constantly fast charge them as thi could induce swelling of the pack earlier. The old Ammo box is a good idea, any strong metal box will do but store them where it does not get very hot or very cold and ideally not in the house. Lipo cells are accepted as hand luggage by most airlines and a holding charge is recommended when flying, so remember to take a small 12v DC balance charger or 'Intelligent' charger with you to other countries, you will always be sure of a power supply, like a car battery even where the mains voltage is different. Small black plug-in cell monitors are readily available from places like Component shop and are a good guide to cell condition. One is these is quite essential as we use these cells more and more. Cheers, hope this helps. Ron.

6 years ago by ronrees

Forum

LiPo batteries

Not sure it's a good idea to leave your lipos for that length of time with a full charge, I personally, put my lipo batteries into "storage" mode otherwise you may find they expand if left fully charged for long periods. I may stand corrected. X mod rifle range warden, I to use old .762 ammo boxes to store my lipos👍

6 years ago by stormin

Forum

LiPo batteries

I use lipo batteries in my transmitter and last year I had to take time away from the hobby because of my health. When I checked my transmitter the battery was still showing 10v on a 11.1v lipo this is a full year after last charge so you should be fine for 4 months as long as it's charged before it's left in storage.

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi MB, can only say what I have which works and I ain't set the house on fire yet 😉 Not surprisingly for someone living in Munich both mine are from German companies! Robbe Power peak Uni 7 and Graupner Unimat 14. There are later versions of both around nowadays but you can still find these on Amazon / Ebay etc. Both of them have automated programmes for various Lithium types, NiMH / NiCad (not recommended these days!) and SLAs. Robbe is now defunct and their Marine stuff taken over by Graupner and marketed as RoMarin! Pics also show the Balancer Adaptor Boards, necessary to connect the balancer cable of the battery. This ensures that each cell is equally charged 😊 I also included in the pics the little battery Capacity Testers I use. They cost around a tenner and are very useful for checking the capacity before a run or charging, as well as the voltage and capacity of each cell, which gives an indication of the battery condition. I found some duff cells with the tester in a few batteries I'd only just bought 😡 When looking for / buying a charger look also for a LiPo Safe bag to charge them in. E.g. LiPo Guard. Charger may cost 50 quid upwards depending on how many charging outlets you want and how many Bells & Whistles. But I get on well with these two 😉 I like the Robbe version cos I can charge two LiPos at the same time. Also in the pics are a few of the charging cables I made up with gold 4mm bullet plugs for the charger end and Tamiya and BEC (for my Plastic magic stuff!) at the batt end. Such adaptor cables are also available 'ready made' but I just like fiddlin' 😊 Hope this helps, Cheers Doug 😎 Nearly forgot! Can't say for sure what current your motor will draw cos I don't know all the other details, but a 40" boat will need some shove! So I wouldn't go below the 5000mAH if you want a half decent run time. A 40" boat can carry a bit of weight! And batt power is more useful than pure ballast 😉 Recommend a little Wattmeter to check the max current draw - see last pic. Basic theory! A fully charged 5000mAh (or 5AH) batt can theoretically deliver 5A for one hour, or 10A for half an hour and so on! Say your set up draws 20A with the 'pedal to the metal' then a 5000mAH batt will 'theoretically' last 15 minutes. Theoretically cos other factors are in play; initial charge state, temperature, internal resistance of the cells, cable losses etc. The latter is why I only use gold connectors! The higher the batt capacity the higher the price and weight. So suggest you start with the 5000 and see how (long) it goes. Then check the weights of higher capacity batts (and the bank account / management approval😉) Bon chance mon ami!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi MB, don't recommend you use ANY kind of batteries in parallel, esp. LiPos, unless you have a connection / distribution board in between that will stop one battery trying to charge the other. This will happen if the two batteries do not have identical charge levels! Component shop have such a board (from Action Electronics) to do this. Also, you will probably find that, for example, 2 x 2500mAH batts will weigh more than one 5000mAH batt🤔 and be more expensive. Only advantage I can see in using two instead of one is that you can put them either side of the keel to help reduce any rolling tendency. Effect is minimal I think though. Cheers Doug 😎 PS: One per ESC and Motor as Jarvo is doing - Fine. Two in parallel feeding one ESC - not so fine! 😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hello. I hope I can get a little help with battery choice. I have been reading the comments above and elsewhere on the site, and have decided to go along the LiPo route. I purchased the Turnigy 3648 1450kv brushless motor along with the Hobbyking brushless car ESC 100A w/reverse. I have done a little research on this battery but still do not know the exact battery I should be looking for. Please can you help with the following: What voltage should I be looking for. To have a reasonable useage period, can you advise on a suitable mAh rating. Please can you recommend a charger. Should I have a charge alarm. Should I have a monitor for cell voltage. Are there any other accessories I should have. Thanks in advance. Peter.😊

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Superstructure

Plasticard! 😲 That's cheating 😁 but I can more than appreciate why, being in the middle of renovating a 60s built wooden boat! I also separated the bridge and deck houses on my destroyer to hide various switches and sockets👍 BTW: if you're using LiPos DON'T CHARGE THEM IN THE BOAT PLEASE!!!😡 Charge 'em in a LiPo Safe bag! Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat

Hi MouldBuilder I use the Hobbyking Turnigy IA6 which is the same as the Banggood Flysky I6 2.4G 6 channel sets. You can set up 20 different models of the one transmitter. I have both and are great units. I was scarce of this Lipo stuff years ago, but, a good balance charger with a safety bag you will be OK. A battery alarm is a cheap handy little unit or add a sensor unit into the boat so you can monitor the battery voltage at the transmitter. Check out you tube about the radio. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Forum

Help

Hi Gerry, welcome aboard 👍 Don't mind some of our crustier Fleet Admirals😉, they mean well and have a wealth of knowledge 😉 First some basics (and forgive me if I'm preaching to the converted but the query was a bit bald to say the least!)! - 1 What experience do you have with RC boats? 2 Brushed or brushless motors? Are you aware of the pros and cons? 3 Battery: are you thinking NiMH or LiPO? Are you equipped for LiPOs, i.e. appropriate charger? 3 I assume you mean the ELCO 80 foot Patrol Torpedo Boat (PTB)? Which at 1:32 would give a model of around 30 inches. Please confirm or let us know what original type the model should represent. 4 Are you scratch building from a plan, or from a kit? If a kit which one? Maker? Sorry for all the questions, but it's like computers; nothing in = nothing out!🤔 Some general rules (I know, rules are made to be bent til' they break!😉) If you go brushed motors there is a neat dual ESC + rudder mixer on the market where you can also connect a third separate ESC for the centre motor, to give that extra OOOMPH at Full Ahead 😊 If you go brushless the basic rule is props no larger than the diameter of the motor. And use an out runner, good torque and SHOVE! inrunners are mostly for the fly boys 😉 Guideline: last year I bought a 28" LoA model of an ELCO 80 footer PTB from another member. it's fitted with 2 x 28xx brushless motors and 30mm 3 blade screws and 2 x HobbyKing XC-10A ESCs. The builder who sold it to me said it is 'almost uncontrollable'! Whatever you do have fun with it, but if in doubt ASK, before you dump money in the boating lake! 🤔 Good luck and best regards, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LiPo Battery Monitor

Hi Andy There are many variations on the market but they all work basically the same way. Most modern Lipo ( and all Lithium based batteries) come with a small white plug with multiple contacts as well as the main power plug, usually connected to some heavy duty wires. The plug is connected to the battery negative at one end and then each pin is connected to the negative on the next battery etc. This allows the individual cell voltages to be measured. The monitors do this automatically when connected to the plug the correct way, if it doesn't light up it's probably the wrong way round. in my experience the monitor connector is not marked so you may need to try different combinations to find the correct way. You will not damage anything if you get it wrong. When correctly connected the monitor will display each cell voltage then the total voltage. This usually repeats after a few secs until you disconnect If you have a charger they have a selection of different size sockets for the number of pins and can only be inserted the correct way. You will need the manual that came with the charger to select the correct screen to display the values, but most can be found if you Google. Glad to hear you have a monitor, LiPos can be damaged if not kept balanced, or discharged below 3v ( some are higher, usually the high power versions) Hope his helps

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery

HI JJ. Your question about a safety bag, Damaged / overcharged lipo's can catch fire, think of the Boeing scandal that grounded the fleet last year. Charging in a safety bag is advised the bag is fire retardant material, which will contain any problem. Your remarks about the boat not coming onto the plane is down to the weight of the battery, my fireboat started with 7.2v NimH packs 1 for each motor, Graupner 700bb's, good cruise but not quick, but short run time, 10mins. I have re-wired to allow 3s lipo's, but not had chance to test it yet, but should go like stink. With a fast hull, weight is important, 4 x lipo packs, 1kg, half the weight and possibly 6 times the power delivery. In your first post you mention 600 motors on 6volts, they are probably rated at 8.4volts, same as my 700's hence the lack of performance, also the battery, at 12ah it should last about 30mins, was it fully charged??? and is it showing at least 6volts, ie not got a duff cell??? Canabus, in his post described an ideal set up with brushless motors, 1600 watts is just over 2 hp, 750 per horsepower so you can see the difference in performance with different motors and battery set up's

7 years ago by jarvo

Forum

46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery

Hi What type of props are you using(size and number of blades). I see your basic problem is under powered motors and a very heavy battery. I made the big switch over three years ago from brush to brushless motors and to Lipo batteries. With the help on the forum and club members it was a learning curve, but, I would not go back. A 5800mah Lipo battery is in the weight of 450 to 570 grams and would give you a good 1/2 hour run time. A good balance charger and safety bag are the main requirements, also maximum charging for the 5800mah battery is 5.8 Amps(same as the old Nicads). Also a low voltage battery alarm. Your 600 motors can draw up to12Amps !!! Replacement same size motors for your mounts would be 35mm brushless motors, but, you will require two ESCs with a Y connector to run on the same throttle channel. Replacement brushless motors are far more powerful e.g. a Hobbyking 3639-1100kv with a 60Amp ESC on a 4S 5800mah Lipo Battery is 800watts and with two in your boat is 1600 watts!!! Your old motor would in the 100 watt each mark !! I have the same size crash tender, but, with a single brushless motor. I have all the order numbers for the motors etc. and a setup the ESCs if your require. Canabus

7 years ago by canabus

Forum

Voltage step down

What your asking for is possible but not easy. A 12V ESC will handle an overvoltage but I cannot say how much and depending upon the current draw of your motor a voltage regulator can be expensive. The simple solution is to get a 3s LIPO However you do need a special charger and have to make sure you do not discharge a LIPO to too lower voltage. https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html if your interested in going LIPO have a read about the care and feeding of them.

7 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY

Hi Les Yes I agree there is no way with the charger supplied you can do anything other than charge to full capacity. I do believe we have made suggestions on another thread on the site advising possible solutions. The cheapest would be to just buy a simple battery checker and make sure after you use the battery the voltage is around the 3.7-3.8v mark. Run a bit more to reduce and short charge to increase. if you are intending to become serious about modelling and using LiPos then, like most of us you will want to buy a charger that does the job for you automatically. There is a cost but if you protect your batteries they will last and save you money in the long term. I've not had much hair for some years so probably that's why!

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

PROBOAT RECOIL 17 12.1 VOLT BATTERY

Hi Les If you are happy with this connector and your other equipment uses this type I would leave well alone. If you do decide to change then I agree XT60 or Deans are common. Does mean you will need to change all the connectors on your equipment or get converters. Not sure I agree with keeping Lipos at above storage charge for any length of time. I have had several of mine balloon before I knew better and I was using them every week. I suspect high temperature may be a factor but that's just my opinion. I now make sure any batteries I have charged are used even for a short time just to drop them from full charge. I use the air boat on the bench. I do agree you should use a storage charge if you are unsure when you may use them again.

7 years ago by Dave M