Response

Grub Screw!

Doug, I hate cold water!😡 I should be receiving some . I ordered a few days ago! Don't want any of the grub. Screws to get loose! I'm not taking her anywhere. Until I secure those grub screws......👍

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Grub Screw!

Most definitely, I had similar experience on high torque shafts but after using threadlock problem solved. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Tamar deck colour

Hi Alan, Ford Polar Grey looks about right 👍 See pics of original here http://modelslipway.com/tamar/tamar_fullsize_arles_gallery/index.html Maybe a final coat of matt or semi matt lacquer to tone down the gloss a little? Spigots are a good idea. For the small deck cleats on my Sea Scout I drilled 1mm holes using my mini milling machine as a drill press😉 Then d 1mm spring steel rod into them. Deck was varnished and polished before fitting with Deluxe Materials Roket gluper sue! The larger tank filler caps on the aft deck I drilled and tapped 3mm fitted studs with and glued domed nuts into the frame underneath, cos I need to be able to remove the deck for rudder servicing. Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

propellers specilly made

Hi Dennis The propeller shaft is 3/16".I needit straight through 3/16" hole on the propeller with 3mm grub screw .I dill and tap the shaft to 3mm so the grub screw is locking the shaft and the propeller together all so i use 648 has well .The job i done on the shaft and the propeller they will not comeing off again cliff

6 years ago by Mataroa

Response

Test fit the Rudder!

Evenin' Ed, No! you need some kind of thrust washer between the prop / locknut and the end of the tube! Otherwise when full ahead the prop or nut will grind against the tube 😡 I would swap the thick nylon washer for a thin stainless steel washer. A good DIY store should have some. Should win you a mm or so. if the shaft moves back and forth more than that then something else is wrong. The movement on my Sea Scout shaft is about 20 thou max. Or as RH suggests you could use to secure the prop instead of the locknut. I would prefer the stainless washer. Cheers Doug 😎 BTW: I also fit washers at the inboard end, between a collet and the tube. As shown in pic attached of my new Sea Scout installation. New propshaft was milled to lock the collet in place (Pic 2). Cocked it up slightly so I needed extra spacing washers! 😁 no one's perfect 😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Test fit the Rudder!

Evenin' RH, I had the same suspicion about the prop form👍 I almost suggested trimming the boss as well. Also wondered about the dimensions given in the Dumas plan!? I've also never lost a prop fixed with . Must admit that this is not a problem I've come across before! I only have two boats with single screw. My Sea Scout, where I just replaced the rudder and prop in the positions my Dad built it with about 8mm clearance. And the Danish fish cutter I inherited from an Aunt. But that was so badly 'thrown together' that it needs a complete refit anyway. All my other ships have two, three or even four screws. Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Test fit the Rudder!

Funnily enough, was talking about this issue earlier with other scale modelers. I faithfully reproduce the rudder position and size and then propeller shaft protrusion on my scale models. Often find when the shaft and propeller are installed they either contact or come very close to the rudder leading edge. Suspect model propellers and the boss are thicker than a scale propellers. Have resorted to trimming either the rudder or the prop boss to get them in properly. Also, have several times left the prop. locknut off and d the prop to the shaft. Be interested in other's experiences. Have never lost a prop by using fortunately.

6 years ago by Rowen

Blog

The electrics, drive & radio

The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. I’m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom ‘exhaust’ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case 😲!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the ‘operate’ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy programming card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns 😁

7 years ago by robbob

Forum

What kind of glue can be used for porcelain

Hi CaptLarry Thanks for the info, I have glued my wife porcelain pitcher together using GO2 GEL some thick glue I had left over from one of my last models. The pitcher is never going to be used, so it for show only which is OK. Thanks again now I know where to get glue to be used on porcelain.

8 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Gorila resin glue

HI Felix, I think that the 'name' products maybe a better formulation, but I don't think we would notice the difference, except for the price. There is one thing, be aware fast cure epoxy is more brittle than long cure, look on the website it gives a lot of information Mark

8 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Too many questions

Hello Dave, I did try to start a build blog, but once started I was never able to find it again. I will log out and back to see if this resolves itself. I am not so hot with computers. I did try to load some pics. One of the boat I am roughly trying to model, and one of the C-face motor to stern tube mounting system I built today. it features a lip seal on the motor end of the tube to keep the salt water out, and I will load the tube with a bit of water proof grease as well. I am a bit concern d that the torque will turn the tube adaptor in the tube, so I made the bearing that fits in the tube about 3" long, and will use a product to seal, and "glue" itself in place. Steve

9 years ago by PikaSteve

Blog

125ft 1st Class Torpedo Boat, 1885

I have decided to take a little break from engine building and carry on with the torpedo boat. I have connected the motor to the shaft with a rigid coupling, glued In place with bearing fit, the A frame Is now fettled up and In place, the shaft and prop Installed and the speed controller made from a servo circuit board. Tomorrow I will slosh a load of epoxy around the shaft tube to permanently fix It In place.

10 years ago by Nickthesteam

Forum

Polystyrene sheet and plywood

HI Gregg, Thanks for that - yes it is Evergreen White Styrene Sheet which I was intending to use for the superstructure (Humbrol poly cement) and for hull sides with plywood hull bulkheads etc. Have since read book by Richard Webb "Making Model Boats with Styrene" ; he recommends Evostick Fusion OR Stabilit Express Another model boat expert recommended using cyanoacrylate (have found superglue) Unless others have better suggestions will try these from Screfix down the road (No decent model boat shop in Camberley, Surrey).

12 years ago by Tall Paul