Blog

Hull finishing touches

The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and waterproof it so next job is to fit the prop tube and motor before the whole hull gets a coat of primer... I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any decking, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain veneer or try to find teak decking which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or advice here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). 😡

5 years ago by StuartE

Blog

The deck planking.

The kit I’m constructing is a pre-production prototype and consequently it does not have the ‘laser etched planking’ feature that has been subsequently introduced in the final production kits on the ‘upper’ deck and the ‘well’ deck. This is of no concern to me because I think I prefer to do my own planking anyway but I do have to do a bit of preparatory ‘laying out’ of the deck pattern to ensure that it’s symmetrical and laid in a pleasing fashion. I have chosen to use 1.6 mm x 9.5 mm obeche hardwood strip-wood (from SLEC) for this with a thin black plasticard caulking between the planks. This is what I did when I constructed the VMW Fire Tender and the result was very effective and visually pleasing. Obeche has a pleasing grain, takes stain very easily and is also considerably cheaper than which I feel would be far too ‘dark red’ when finally lacquered. Because I wanted an outer curved plank around the hull edge I had to cut this from 1.6mm obeche sheet to the correct shape and width as it would be impossible to bend a strip to this extreme curve. These also needed a section trimmed out to allow the bow gunwales to be positioned correctly. Once both sides were cut and shaped I could then form the ply gunwales to the correct curve by my heating and bending process and glued them down to the deck. I understand that on the production kits these gunwales are now incorporated into the side skins which will make the construction a bit easier. The remaining outer planks on the hull edges were made from straight lengths of obeche but required some easing cuts so that they could be bent to the curve of the hull. Hopefully these cuts will not be too noticeable in the finished deck. When all the edge planks were glued in place I temporarily laid out the obeche planking strips with a thin strip of black plasticard as caulking and all held in place with masking tape. The centre plank was arranged to lie over the centre line from bow to stern. The setting out of the planks in this manner confirmed that the layout worked as intended and so I began fixing down the planking from the centre plank of the hull outwards with a fast bonding superglue and the process proved to be quite quick to complete. The side deck planks were equally straightforward but did require some to be carefully shaped in a tapered fashion at each end to fill the remaining gaps. The rear deck was also planked by working out from the centre plank and thankfully the planking layout matched and followed the bow deck planking perfectly. The surplus plasticard ‘caulking’ was then trimmed flush to the planks with a very sharp chisel and the entire deck rubbed down with my sanding plate until it was all perfectly smooth. For those building this model that don’t feel confident enough to do ‘real planking’ will probably want to make use of the laser etched planking on the ply deck panels to achieve a similar result with very minimal effort, but I quite like the challenge of doing it the hard way and the benefit of a slightly better finish.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Upper & Lower Chines

Excellent Rob👍 Thanks for showing me how to make the caprail for my cutter 😊 "More power to your chines"😁 Cheers Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

(Working Vessel) Formidable

Hemmens 'Formidable' 5 years to make! Double plank on frame. First plank skin fastened with wood trenails. Scale planking. Second skin strip to Lloyds spec. 10,00 copper rivets. Was intended for Hemmens V-4 steam but chickened out so electric - V-4 now bench run only. (9/10)

6 years ago by humelvin

Forum

just need cable (wire)...

Gents, I wanted the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do. Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist". Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent! But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th scale models of hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

Decking Completed

Deck planking using and pine.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

Painting

I have a Huntsman 31 model I am refurbishing. The paint is peeling off from age, the muppet who painted it only applied one coat (Me), the Humbrol enamel was probably too thick for the fine grain of the birch ply and spruce. I am planning to start with cellulose sanding sealer as it is nice and thin so should get a good key into the grain. So.. What paint should I use over the sealer? Some parts of the ply I want to look like teak deck planking so first I think I need a stain. Then line in the planks with fibre tip pen followed by what type of varnish? Some of the spruce needs to look like so do I stain it or use some sort of paint? Thanks Steve

6 years ago by steve-d

Forum

Painting

My cabinet maker Granddad always said to stain the finish , never the wood, as stain can kill a grain. He would always use shellac/French Polish and then stain over that with a stain filled further coat of french polish. The same is done with real Rivas and no other boat can claim the finish that Riva always got with stain over Epiphanes varnish. I use cellulose sanding sealer on the wood, then a spirit based stain (NEVER acrylic water based muck) on the sanding sealer and then varnish, proper spar varnish to get that lovely glow. I have always used steamed Pear to represent in scale, but it does need a little darkening and that's how I do it. That way you control the colour, but don't "kill" the grain. Grandad also said , "always cut wood, boy, don't scratch it, make it bleed", so I became a dab hand with a cabinet scraper and use very little sandpaper. Here, as they say, is one I made earlier using exactly these methods. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

Kit Quality ETC.

Hi I have ordered the additional decking material from Jotika. I remember seeing similar boats around Bideford and most cabins had sides with white rooves and /teak grab rails

6 years ago by Ianh

Response

Kit Quality ETC.

Hi Ian. A deck with light strips between would look better and another colour for the cabin, but, yes to the brass portholes. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Blog

Kit Quality ETC.

To give you some idea of the quality of this kit. Here are some photos. The quality is excellent and if you have a bit of experience this can easily be built. I don't fancy the all white look as the original had cabin sides and brass portholes this is what I will do with it,👍👍

6 years ago by Ianh

Forum

Sadolin

Has any one used Sadolin wood preserver/stain on balsa wood ? Thinking of staining deck of speed boat in Sadolin ...

6 years ago by Gardener

Forum

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...

Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses. Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue. For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished . I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. it would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.

6 years ago by Westquay

Blog

Mid Deck

Now I am in the swing of planking I may as well do all the remaining decks that need planking. Therefore, very much the same procedure as before with a border, followed by caulking the inside edges of the border, then cutting the planks roughly to length, and then finally trimming on the disc sander for an exact fit. When all he planks have been dry fitted, they can are removed and glued with aliphatic glue. A couple of days to completely dry then it’s on with the sanding before finishing with sanding sealer I marked all the nail holes using the marking tool I made. This is all on this deck until final finishing which will be done with all the other decks.

6 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

A return to the hobby!

It's a disgrace how bad some plans are from the suppliers. I bought an aircraft drawing to make a De Havilland Hornet Moth. it was about 15 quid...more than enough and was so appalling when I got it back that I had to redraw large parts of it. Arguments about accuracy are one thing, but when the side view and plan of the wing is different it's time to cry "foul". I paid what I thought was an appalling amount for Harold Underhill drawings of a Scottish Zulu fishing boat, but at least they were very detailed and accurate. Mind you for that price they damned well should have been! And don't even get me started on the plans drawn by Gary Griswold of runabouts and hotrods. I made the one called, (wrongly) Excaliber. it would not support a sigle fair batten through any of its frame's notches, so I added little bits of wood and took some out with a cutting disc until they fitted. Then I realised it was twisted, so had to add a strong diagonal brace while I corrected all the notches. Fortunately, after they were all corrected the brace came out and finally I was able to add skins. I figured it looked like a Greavette racer, so have built it like that. But no thanks to the lousy drawings. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...

Colin, these are to fit in with my Chris Craft, which is roughly 1/8th scale, so they just look right. I don't have any dimensions as there are no Chris Craft Special Race Boats in Britain. Not that anyone would dare to question you anyway as nobody gives a toss about classic speedboats over here. We never had those types of boats. The Thames had one or two nice Brookes and slipper launches, but our attempts at speed were never as elegant as the Yanks and were all a bit boxy and unembelished and generally sat upon by authorities who didn't like speed, except at Windermere and Oulton Broad and they were mainly outboard powered with one or two exceptions in aluminium, and paint. was strictly for furniture for the English. I will get all these bits cast and will have spares, so if you need any that are among my bits, just holler and I'll see what I can do. May have to charge for metal weight, but that's about it, as I will have to pay for that, even if I can get the bits squeezed in other peoples' moulds. I reckon you could use these on a 1/12th scale model without any doubt being caused. Most boats used two of those vents. A couple of cleats, a light/cum staff holder and screen supports, which I'm also doing but haven't got a picture of. That will comprise left and right, short and central, longer. The glass will slide in cast in grooves. A filler and steering wheel and instruments finish it off. Can't do a bow piece as they are all different and must fit the boat exactly. That's down to you and you can only foil that for the chrome look. Just wait till I have to do some of these! Ain't they gorgeous? Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Thanks Doug Just a history Doug No items for sale but interesting👍

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

in Scale

Hi all, just received a copy of the above and will curl up with that tonight while the telly churns out its usual diet of Saturday night crap. I shall review it when I've been through it. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Hi John, No I didn't know there was a premium on ED stuff! Will have to start touring the Flohmärkte here (Flea Markets - have never heard of a 'Kofferraum Sale (Boot Sale😉) here. Dimly remember drooling over ED engine ads, way out of my range back then🤔 Didn't know they did RC kit til it popped up here. Sorry to dash your hopes but Unfortunately I only have the info and not the stuff itself😭 Here are the links http://www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_radios.html http://www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_radios.html#3 Happy browsing / reminiscing 👍 Cheers, Doug😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

in Scale

This all goes to show what a broad church modelmaking is. Unfortunately, each discipline refuses to acknowledge the other. The number of polymath model fans like me is very small. Onetenor, there is the MPBA, although no doubt it sticks to its Power Boat aspect. I'm not one for starting stuff any more. Bin dare, dun dat, thanks. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Here's a few toy museums https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Model+Museums+in+U+K&oq=Model+Museums+in+U+K&aqs=chrome..69i57.29993j1j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 The British Maritime Museum has loads of models too

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

in Scale

There should be a BMBA to organise boat stuff. How could we form one?👍

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

in Scale

Hi Guys, I thought you might like to know that the BMFA have a national centre which is going to include a museum. Although it may be all aircraft at the start it may include other genres as well.

6 years ago by Wingcoax

Forum

in Scale

Doug did you know that there is a premium on ED stuff.BTW what was that site you got the stuff on ? I'd like to see if there is more.👍

6 years ago by onetenor

Forum

in Scale

Yep, afraid you'll only find that sort of stuff in a website🤔, like the one I found the ED engines and RC kit in.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

in Scale

Doug, I don't generally "do" foreign and Pete certainly wouldn't. As you say, most are model railway or strictly stick and string model ships. What we wanted to do was a general model hobby museum with a bias toward the RC hobbies. Ain't none of them. History of RC, RC cars, boats and aircraft. Materials, tools, etc. Mags and books, that kind of thing. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Special:Search&search=Model+museums&searchToken=5rdalovz96wnmkq3wr9ucfou9 https://www.google.com/search?q=Model+museums&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b https://www.rmg.co.uk/discover/museum-collections/worlds-largest-ship-model-collection A lot are Model Railway Museums but there are many model ship museums and others as well. Haven't found a pure Woodie museum yet though 😁 Happy hunting Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

in Scale

Ha!, that's the ONE, Doug and it's more toy than model. There used to be one at Beale Park, but that seems to have gone. I think there was one in London, but was also more toy than model. I know of no purely model museums. Serious , explain that we'd all have bugger all if it weren't for models...museums. I started collecting stuff for one, years ago and that never happened either. I ended up flogging it all off on ebay. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

" but there ain't no model museums." Sure there are Martin, thousands, all over the world. This is just one in the south of England https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Brighton_Toy_and_Model_Museum Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

in Scale

Last I saw t, he showed it working. Alas he has been stricken with Alzheimers in the last few months. I was asked not to go round as his wife had had a fall and it was all rather awkward round there. So suddenly a good old friend (he's 84) has been taken from me. What will happen to all his stuff, I dread to think. There are over 50 flyable aircraft in sheds, caravans and his large loft, even some boats. He gave me a GRP hull of the Bloodhound and a freelance, very early GRP cruiser hull. I shall attempt to finish them in his memory, because it's like he's died. That E.D. RC set should be in a museum, but there ain't no model museums. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Neither can I Martin! "The transmitter used two vacuum tubes wired as a multi-vibrator with a tank circuit to constrain emissions to somewhere near the 27 M/cs band (same as MHz, but that name came later). With not a crystal in sight, transmitter frequency drift and battery voltage drain was a problem, so careful tuning just prior to short flights was the order of the day." http://www.modelenginenews.org/cardfile/ed_radios.html#3 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

in Scale

I was just going on the memory of it being so tall. I can't imagine flying an aerobatic schedule with it. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Hi Martin, 6 feet is about 1/6th wavelength at 27Megs so should work fine. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

in Scale

Gents, just put the Sea Hornet in the build blog section, but whether it gets seen or not, I don't know. If the IC engine is an easy runner, Colin, run it on a water where the turds can't stop you. A navigable river or canal or just run the bugger till someone can prove (PROVE, mind) that you can't. Then just run it till the fuel runs out, reluctantly apologise and leave. BTW, I won't be showing video of this as I have no mobile phone beyond an emergency one that don't do pictures of any kind. I have a video camera somewhere that has dead batteries and a power pack, but where I sail there ain't no power! Doug, would the ED aerial be more like 27 meg if it was 6 foot long? I think it gets damned close to his ceiling if you try to put it up at home. So, chaps, Sea Hornet/Chris-Craft Special Runabout over on the Build blog section ifn you'm interested. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Blog

Chris-Craft Special Runabout

OK, you know and I know that this is an Aerokits Sea Hornet, BUT, with a little reworking, it becomes a very passable Chris Craft Special (sometimes Custom) Runabout. One cockpit, long engine deck. I think it suits the Sea Hornet shape and proportions very well. Generally, I think too much is expected to be going on with a basic Hornet and the deck furniture is too simplistic. Also, don't be tempted to call this one a barrel back They had one continuous curve right over the transom from chine to chine, whereas this hull and the Special Runabout had a break, albeit a small one at the deck level. Anyway, I redecked the Hornet with 1/16th" ply, leaving the engine hatch long. I also had to make a small hatch at the stern to service the tiller and its connection. Then I realised I would never be able to get to the two starboard screws that hold the steering servo in, so a wee hatch went in over them too. That will be held in with a small magnet and just popped up from inside the engine 'ole hatch. Because the hull needed filling and various repairs, I decided to paint it, but veneer plank the deck. many Chris-Crafts were painted and I think this one in a nice off-white with a varnished and pear deck will look just the job with nickel plated deck furniture, made in brass and nickel silver and plated in nickel to look like chrome in scale. Chrome is a) difficult to get these days and b) too bright and garish on a model. The hull has been epoxied and rubbed down then brush panted heavily with cellulose primer surfacer. This rubs down a treat ready for a sprayed enamel top coat or three. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

I can't wait to see it either Colin!😉 Martin: "plus a 22 1/2 volt, the same size as a PP3. Not sure what you'd do for that!" - 3 LiPo 2S (7.4V) in series should do the trick 👍 Or 2 x 3S (11.1V) or a 6S if you can find one! 8ft aerial! if a full wave antenna that puts the operating frequency at about 120MHz. if, as more likely, it's a 1/2 or 1/4 wave antenna it would be 60 or 30MHz. The latter being most probable. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

in Scale

If I do get it, I don't know if it will be possible to use the diesel engine as no safe water near me that allows IC engines, so may just get used as a display model for the vintage shows I go to. Although I have only managed 1 show this season as ill health and then lack of a vehicle has hampered my year. Which I think is about to get better when my replacement car arrives on Monday. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

in Scale

Oh PLEASE buy it, Colin. Sounds marvelous. Far too few diesel powered boats about and that RC sound s wonderful. I have an old chum who still has a 10 channel reed set of E.D. RC gear which still works. He says he had to fly with a plastic trimmer screwdriver in his hand to constantly retune the pots whilst flying! It has an 8 foot aerial and stands on the ground while he has a hand set wired to it. Doug could get that going. T They say you can't get the batteries, but a box of ten PP3s is a 90 volt battery. That's what my old REP set had, plus a 22 1/2 volt, the same size as a PP3. Not sure what you'd do for that! Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Well Martin, its their loss. I try to make everything except the electrics. I suppose I'm lucky in being a retired prototype engineer, with my own machines and space to work. These days I am restoring more than building, I find it more challenging. Spotted a vintage boat in antique shop today, it had diesel marine power and valve and relay control system with a strange adjustable korts nozzle arrangement. I am trying to get the wife to let me buy it. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

in Scale

Nowhere near the interest required, Colin. I was once asked by the editor of Model Railway Journal to write some articles. I did and the editor had changed and he said, "Nobody makes anything any more". And he the editor of the one magazine for scratchbuilders! Nah, sod 'em. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Can't wait to see her on plane, and look forward to reading your book. I'm sure you can make a better job of it. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

in Scale

Maybe I should write one, eh, Colin? For the scratchbuilders among us. A treatise on brass bashing and woodwork. Nobody would be interested. I've just epoxied my Sea Hornet, which I'm modifying as a Chris Craft Custom Runabout. One cockpit, big hatch. Cost me 99p off ebay a few years ago. I just had to scrape all the old red paint off it as it wanted to fall off anyway! Then a huge rub down, a wipe with cellulose thinner and a coat of epoxy applied with a square of styrene sheet because I couldn't find an old credit card on the quick, just as good though. Next, rub down and 2 coats of cellulose primer surfacer, then the top coats. This one is to be one of the painted CCs. There were quite a few. But the deck will be veneered in the correct style and varnished. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

in Scale

Good review, I concur wholeheartedly. I borrowed a copy and wasn't impressed, but as you say some useful addresses. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Forum

in Scale

Hmmm, well a cursory look through over lunch shows me that the book is fine if you're a kit basher as it covers the Dumas kind of kit, but for the actual modelmaker it holds nothing but nice pics on indifferent paper. Some useful addresses in the back. That's about it. Nothing on deck fittings, etc. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Blog

Aft cockpit deck

I first cut the base material to size allowing a card thickness all round for final clearances. The lower deck has a number of features in it that need to be measured. I took dimensions from the plans and marked out the base. Again following the upper deck which has a boarder I cut and planed a further amount of 6mm x 1.5 strips of material. I started by outlining the boarders, Some years ago I made a mitring device for picture framing which has come in very handy for doing the corners. Having all the pieces cut they are then glued and temporally pinned in position until set. The next job is to prepare all the edges with black card and then measuring each plank across the width starting from the centre line. I must take into account how the planks sit against main access hatch and the battery hatch opening however, all seems to look good but until each plank is positioned and glued with its caulk divider it’s difficult to tell. When preparing each plank I first cut each piece oversize with wire cutters then using the disc sander I trim square one end, then place in position and mark for final length and finish again on the disc sander giving each plank a nice push fit Because lime planking varies in colour across a batch I numbered each plank across the deck varying the pattern of colours as I cut each to length. Next I cut a number of card pieces to length and start to glue (using Aliphatic glue), plank, followed by card filler across the half width, then repeat the other side. Finally the battery hatch and main access hatch are treated in the same manner. Next comes the finishing , I use a very fine grade on my belt sander (I attach a block on the underside of the main access deck to control the sanding process) to remove the majority of excess irregularities followed by an orbital sander for a fine finish. if there is any staining by the black card residue I simply remove it with a pencil rubber. Next I put the nail holes in again using the jig I made to ensure uniform spacing and then gave a coat of sanding sealer. Final finishing will be done as a complete assembly. Preparation of the side panels is the next process before final assembly

6 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

Cabin/Superstructure

Upperworks, this launch has a long cabin and a well deck ( Gin Parlour ).. Sides were traced out and cut from 1.5mm ply, internal formers are 3mm ply, spacers and struts Obechie, the cabin front is formed with Balsa which will be covered in 1.5mm ply, all the external faces have been veneered in , except the roof which will be probable a piece of ply. The old favourite 1 inch ring saw came into play again for the cutting out of the windows. Applied the veneer after cutting out the windows, have found this easier and it tends not to split and crack the veneer, so one has to recut the window openings but its a very quick and easy job if you use a 1/2 inch drum sander in something like a Dremel hobby type drill. I,m afraid we have the oposite of Rain stopped play , its Sun stopped play at the moment.. You may notice the "Old Batteries" and cans, used as weights to hold down / compress the veneer, also the Jig saw, bolted to a piece of ply and then clamped into the B&D Workmate, I aint got room for a bandsaw which i would love, so this lash up has done me proud for a few years. Regards Muddy....

6 years ago by muddy

Forum

Another useful site for all 'Woodies' ;)

Haha, somebody's been on the hunt. Got all those mate and an awful lot more besides, such as this beauty, which I simply HAVE to have a bash at. HornetII, hull, aluminium deck and fin. Gotta love that Scripps twin plug V12. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

So, why not woodies?...

Hi all, a coffee break question for you all. You will know me if you know me at all as a lover of the woodie, the hotrod, the classic speedboat. And I wonder why they are so very rarely modelled. There are plenty of plans for them and a few kits which can be made straight or converted into others. They are well documented on the 'net. There are some wonderful books about them (most of which I have!). Yet where are they all? Surely they are more fun to fling round a pond than some old tanker/coaster. I realise tugs can be made to erm...tug, if the rest of the equipment is available, but it rarely seems to be. Does the glamour of a highly varnished wooden or painted finish with chrome fittings not appeal? Does the average smallness of the classic speedboat not make for easy transport? Not a criticism, just a ponder, but some response would be appreciated. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Response

The Saga of the Cabin Roof or - Arrrgh!

Did you mean me John? Or Mike? I had considered planking but my planks are very very thin about 0.5mm x 5mm wide, and I would still have had the problem of 'warping on' a plywood base skin. So I persevered with the veneer and I'm happy now with the result of making it in two pieces. matching the edges for the centre line joint took the most time 🤔 More power to your plank cutters Gents👍

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

(Yacht) Adele

Model is from Dumas kit hull covered with 2 layers or 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. Deck covered with 3/4 oz. cloth and resin, painted with klass Coat epoxy paints. Running lights and cabin light. Built with removable interchangeable bridge windscreen or windscreen with roof. (Motor: MACK 5045) (ESC: MACK 35) (8/10)

6 years ago by Mikep