|||
Current Website Support
261
Contributors
11
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal 🏅
£10
£15
£25
£50
Subscribe for your gold medal 🏅
£5
£10
£15
£20
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Search
    Search
    Forum
    how did your sailing day go?
    Hi there Doug the
    model
    is loosely based on a TBD and its built by John Nielson basically built for straight running so its a stand off scale. Note the handle on the back end for holding it when its on the water. Having said all of that, if you like, when I go back to the lake I will ask John if I may take some more pics. its steam driven as well Doug. John
    8 hours ago by JOHN
    Place
    Ellesmere Port
    model
    Boat Club
    We formed in about 1989 as "The Boat Club" based at the Ellesmere Port Boat Museum. In the nineties we changed the name to the Ellesmere Port
    model
    Boat Club. We meet and sail at the Museum but now have a pool at The Hooton Park Trust site. We are currently 30 members strong and have
    model
    s of every type.
    1 year ago by epmbcmember
    Blog
    HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.
    Hi Guys, As I mentioned the Bridge in my last log I thought that I would cover the Radar on top of the Bridge. As you may have gathered I quite like working with plastic card, so making the Radar was just a case of gluing some layers of card together and shaping. To make the Radar turn I modified a standard servo to continually rotate and by adjusting the pot slightly I managed to get it to rotate clockwise one full rotation at a speed of approximately two seconds. It seemed to be the correct speed, as I have seen on many
    model
    s the Radars spin like a helicopters rotor blades and to me that is not correct. The video is 'hidden' in the Invalid File. To view- Click on the Invalid image, Then click the Download button, white arrow on blue background at top left. Windows (App?) offers the choice of View or Save. View with Media Player or equivalent. Martin
    15 days ago by Martin555
    Blog
    Free fall anchor winch, Maersk Topper, scale 1/50
    My home made Free Fall anchor winch for my
    model
    Maersk Topper. The original design is made by http://www.ankerwinde.eu/de/ But My anchor and chain is to heavy so I adjusted the chain roller and extra guide rollers. First I made a test
    model
    to test of all modifications are really working.
    8 days ago by maersk-topper
    Response
    Re: WSP 9
    Hi, this is Czech production and here is used really good plastic. Vladyka does honest and quality things. It is a pupil
    model
    that has to endure something. I got it from my wife to make it a little ship. It's really great and it's a simple building. I improved the original kit a bit. Zdenek😎😀
    5 days ago by Inkoust
    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the ‘Vintage
    model
    Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new
    model
    with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The
    model
    is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular
    model
    kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the
    model
    in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Brushed to Brushless upgrade
    Hi DodgyGeezer, Thank you for all of the information. I understand this a little bit more now. I see many
    model
    s hammering across the water but I like to see more scale speeds. So would you say that if you made something like my HMS Cottesmore (1/48 scale) and was to run it at more realistic speed it would be better to use brushed motors? (I must admit that is what I have fitted) Martin.
    7 days ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: WSP 9
    Nice looking boat but I tend to shy away from the ABS plastic
    model
    s now. They don't seen to be formed from firm enough plastic now. I have made a couple in the past and they seemed a lot thicker plastic back then The last one I made was an SHG Piranha.
    8 days ago by BOATSHED
    Directory
    WSP 9
    Police boat
    model
    by Vladyka.The whole building from ABS, engine MIG 400 water-cooled, reheater DSYS 18A, battery 2600mA LiPol. A very stable ship, even at higher speeds, maneuverable and comfortable.
    8 days ago by Inkoust
    Media
    WSP 9
    Police boat
    model
    by Vladyka.The whole building from ABS, engine MIG 400 water-cooled, reheater DSYS 18A, battery 2600mA LiPol. A very stable ship, even at higher speeds, maneuverable and comfortable.
    8 days ago by Inkoust
    Media
    FELIX
    model
    German docks from Krick, ABS hull, superstructure plywood,
    model
    is illuminated with reflector, position lights and mast, drive DC motor MIG 500 Boat 12V, controller 45A Turnigy bidirectional, LiPol battery 7.4 V 4000mA. The
    model
    has good stability and driving characteristics. I recommend this kit to all mildly advanced
    model
    lers. Good and accurate version of the
    model
    kit. (Motor: MIG 600 Boat) (ESC: Turnigy) (9/10)
    8 days ago by Inkoust
    Forum
    What batteries?
    Hello, my friend from a distance. Sufficient energy is needed to drive class 700 motors. NiMh batteries are by no means unable to stably release their current power and turn off the controllers. The LiPol battery is ideal, and in your case the 3S - 11.1 volts. Motors would work reliably with 2S LiPol cells, but I recommend a minimum capacity of 4200 mA if you want to drive at least 40 minutes in full power. 600 class engines would be good for you. I use LiPol 2S 4000 mA in all
    model
    s. Two regulators per battery is not a problem with one connector you put into the receiver with the help of a red cable needle to ensure that the receiver is burned. If you have one battery, count on the fact that you will drive max 15 minutes at full power and end. In either case, you will need two 60A min. They have a very strong current draw and especially during start-up. If you want to make an investment in the future to buy AC controllers and AC motors, it's power elsewhere and very powerful shaft power. Then you will need a 400W motor and a 45A regulator. https://www.bighobby.cz/Bighobby-NANO-Tech-4200mAh-2S-25C-d1972.htm https://www.bighobby.cz/Sunrise-X80A-Car-sensored-stridavy-regulator-80A-d1010.htm# https://www.bighobby.cz/Motor-Turnigy-D35-36-1250kv-d609.htm Hi Zdenek
    9 days ago by Inkoust
    Forum
    General information required
    Good afternoon
    model
    Boats members. I am a newbie & I am after some helpful information from any members. My brother in law passed away recently & was an avid builder of R/C boats & a perfectionist. He has a big collection of various boats, sizes, etc. We would like to sale them but we are not sure how to go about it. We have approached the local auctioneers but they want a fairly hefty part of the sale price. We have also looked at ebay but not to sure about that. We have also been in touch with Howes
    model
    s but they offered a measly sum of £500 for the lot!! Any information would be most grateful. Jimbob901😎🤞
    10 days ago by Jimbob901
    Forum
    Glue
    Martin - don't you have to use something like Mek Poly for ABS . I bought a
    model
    tug kit with ABS hull (George Turner) - ordinary polystyrene cement did not even touch it The UHU version which is stronger than the other types did not work. Tried 4 different glues with nothing doing then used Mek Poly - instant bond. Been told that its actually used as a hardener for polyester resin - so got 500ml of hardener (cheap) but have not had cause to use it yet.
    11 days ago by redpmg
    Event
    International competition of steamboat
    model
    s
    Also in 2019 you can look forward to an international competition of steamboat
    model
    s. But you know that. What you may not know and you should know is the fact that the 16th edition will take place in a new location. It is the former cove of the Elbe River named Grado. It is located at the pub of the same name at Kárané. On foot and by bike, you can also visit Čelákovice, which lies on the other side of the Elbe. By car you can easily reach D10 to Stará Boleslav and from there to Káraný and further up the Elbe on its right bank. We look forward to seeing you, with or without steamboat
    model
    s, at 10 am on Saturday 18 May 2019.   When? Saturday, May 18, 2019 from 10:00 am GPS Coordinates: 50 ° 10'14.369 "N, 14 ° 45'9.702" E
    12 days ago by Inkoust
    Response
    Re: HMS EXETER.
    My Exeter is a type 42 Destroyer. Unfortunately I don't have the equipment to scan and being old school I can only just work a computer. I have no details of her that I can post as she was sold many years ago. I seem to end up selling my boats mainly to fund the next one and as I have no transportation to get me anywhere to be able to sail them. I end up just ballasting and testing them and that's it. Also as I am not a member of any club the only thing that keeps me interested in this hobby is being able to message members like your self, and by looking at all of these fantastic
    model
    s that other members have made. Martin
    13 days ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: Type V11C Submarine.
    Hi Martin, Thanks😀 Pics are a few years old. Both
    model
    s are sadly in need of refits now. U25 is functional but the top half, deck and conning tower etc, had an unexpected collision in the work shop dry dock - with the floor 😭 Hotspur was gutted a few years ago to renovate the hull. Intention is to modernise the electronics and fit an Action Electronics dual ESC with rudder mixer to improve the 'cornering' of such a long narrow hull. Crewmen were sort of made by me😉 I shanghaied them from some ancient Airfix 8th Army and Afrika Corps 1/72 soldiers I used on the backyard battlefield as a kid. Modified some for their new roles; e.g. the guys with mine detectors were given brooms to scrub the decks instead! The ones climbing ladders were originally crawling with rifles in their right hands. Cap'n on the bridge is actually an Afrika Corp tank commander! I have some new crew for U25, one of them seems to be a bit peed off with his posting 😁 Guess I'll have to pull my finger out and put all this 'stuff' in a Blog or Harbour or summat!! Doug 😎
    13 days ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: Type V11C Submarine.
    Hi Doug, Both excellent
    model
    s. Did you make the crewmen? Martin.
    13 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Hi Guys, A little inexpensive tip for marking water lines on your
    model
    s. Just use a clothes peg, pencil,and a couple of elastic bands.
    13 days ago by Martin555
    Blog
    Fiddly bits and lights
    Hi y’all. She’s almost there. I swear for a fairly easy boat to build I have almost as much time in the thing as my Neptun.😮 I keep adding a little here and there, but I need to finish her. Once I maiden her, I’m “done” I rarely go back to a project I’ve finished to modify or add details, with the exception of RC cars. The more I get into
    model
    boating however, the more I think that attitude might change. Anyway, I bought some detail pieces from Harbor
    model
    s in California, and decided to add lights to the Acapulco too. The flying bridge now has a radios and a fire extinguisher. I took braided wire, stripped off the insulation and used that inside a piece of heat shrink for the hose, it’s not perfect but looks ok. I shortened the radar mast that goes behind the seat because...well, I just didn’t like how it looked. I added 2 aft nav lights to it also, I’m waiting on lights and boards from Harbor, once those are installed I’ll tidy up the internals, pinstripe the water line and she will be ready for her maiden run. I need to get her done as I have another project in the wings,and I’m gonna have to do some engineering to accomplish what I want I have in mind....😁 Cash
    13 days ago by Cashrc
    Blog
    HMS Bustler
    HMS Bustler deep sea rescue tug ,built at Henry Robb Shipbuilders Leith where I served my time . Hull is 6mm ply with 2mm ply deck ,superstructure and bridge were constructed earlier from 18mm mdf . Ship will be a static
    model
    ,one day I will bite the bullet and attempt Rc
    3 months ago by marky
    Forum
    LED Lighting tip
    Hi Guys, I have a little tip for powering some LED lighting. When you use the BEC from the ESC it will free up the socket that the battery would of used. So if you use a receiver connector and connect some LED's to the red and black pins You have a low voltage power supply. I have used this to power the navigation lights on several
    model
    s,also it indicates when the boat is switched on.
    15 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    LED Lighting tip
    Hi Guys, Thank you for the LED calculators it is much appreciated. Being an old guy and doing things on a zero budget is a bit of a challenge,I tend to use whatever I can get my hands on. I selvage old broken electrical stuff for the parts to use on my
    model
    s, and recycle plastic food containers for usable plastic. I tend to look at all sort of things and think to myself what can I use that for. It is surprising what you can make from junk! I suppose I should get up to date and do things properly. Thanks again Guys. Martin.
    14 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Anyone into CNC, or perhaps looking to get into it? I am wondering about putting my plans out as G Code, and it would be useful to have a discussion about the practicalities. For instance, what bed size do people use?
    model
    boat plans are a bit specialist for most CNC boards. They worry about cutting hard materials - we mainly use balsa and ply. Their machines are usually square - ours would need to be long and thin. They use big commercial routers and spindles - we could get away with smaller motors and dental burrs. I picked up one of these over Christmas, and am currently going through the learning curve. But it doesn't seem to be all that difficult.... https://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/index.php?seo_path=eshapeoko-cnc-milling-machine-mechanical-kit
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    New In The Shop
    Here’s a sample, the nozzle certainly won’t work. It’s as I suspected really, some detail is lost, the flanges will need filing or drilling a little larger to slide on the main post. If it’s going on a display
    model
    , it may be adequate.
    16 days ago by Fireboat
    Response
    Re: The Well Deck side panels & Boat Hooks.
    Hi Dave. The level of detail that we put into our
    model
    s is a personal thing and it's by no means meant as a challenge to other
    model
    lers to match, and it is foremost a matter of personal satisfaction. There should be no expectation that your own efforts have to match that of others, although I have taken inspiration from seeing other similar
    model
    s built to a far higher standard than my own and chosen to emulate them because I like to challenge my own abilities with limited tools and skills. As
    model
    makers I'm certain that we are very accepting of other peoples work however well it is executed and I'm full of admiration for anyone who puts the time and effort into constructing something to the best of their abilities and exhibiting it for all to see. Remember that those that judge or criticise have often never gone to such efforts. Show off your
    model
    s with pride 😀. Kindest Regards. Rob.
    19 days ago by robbob
    Blog
    Walrus ASR Diorama
    Hi all, as promised the build blog for my new project which I will be building over the next couple of weeks while on 'bed rest' ( code name for the project is 'pleasetellmeitsnotaplane') As with all my
    model
    s i Believe that getting it factually correct adds to the overall effect of the
    model
    . The 2
    model
    s involved in the Diorama will be a Mk. II Supermarine Walrus from RAF Squadron 277 based at RAF Shoreham in Sussex and a Mk.5 Spitfire from US Navy VOS-7 based at HMS Daedulus, RNAS Lee on Solent, Hants. I came across an article about US navy pilots using Spitfires as air observers and spotters for the battleships and cruisers during the D.Day landing when they directed the 'big guns'. onto specific targets. There were 17 pilots and they were all trained observer/spotters from American warships and all trained on the spitfire/seafire as there was a pool of these types available (these were all Mk5's which had been superseded by newer aircraft) meaning if a plane was lost then providing the Pilot was OK he could get back into the air quickly. In just 26 days they flew 209 missions for the loss of only 1 life, 8 air craft where lost but all pilots where rescued 3 by a walrus. This was the only US Navy Squadron to fly spitfires but It is not often talked about, the Americans have this thing called NIH when referring to other allies equipment, it stands for 'Not Invented Here' so if they didn't build it they didn't use it. The diorama will show a Walrus on the Water effecting a rescue of a downed Spitfire Pilot who is out of his sinking aircraft and in a liferaft being pulled towards the Walrus. The diorama was planned out using roughly assembled (Loads of Blutak)
    model
    s laid out to get a feel for the size and drawn 1:1. And now the big moment ....drum roll.. my first Airfix kit in over 40 years (if you don't count the Flower class Corvettes (but they were big) Attached some photo's From day 1
    23 days ago by boatiebennett
    Forum
    Rivets
    Hi Ken, I have been making
    model
    s for many years now but there is always something that you come across that you know what you want to achieve but don't know how to get the results that you want. Like these rivets I tried different things but just couldn't get the results I wanted. Hopefully today I will try the dressmaking pins and see how that looks. Martin.
    19 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Rivets
    Hi Colin, Yes I think you are right. I have been finding my way around this site and have seen fantastic
    model
    s and I really admire the skills of many of the members. And as you say you are learning all the time, there must be so many little tricks and tips out there. Martin.
    20 days ago by Martin555
    Response
    Re: The Well Deck side panels & Boat Hooks.
    Super detailing, on a superb
    model
    . I wish I could do as well on my
    model
    s. Well done, keep up the good work matey. Cheers Colin.
    20 days ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Rivets
    Hi You can buy a silicone rubber molds (green stuff world) on Ebay. The mould can produce rivet and nut heads etc in various sizes. You fill the mould with FIMMO clay and put in your oven to harden. You will need a bit of patience gluing them on. I have use the hex nuts to great effect on my
    model
    s. I Also have used dome headed craft pins. Just ask if you need more information
    20 days ago by Hillro
    Forum
    Plan Sources
    Dodgy - from the difficulty point of view the new one 1945 et al seems to be the hardest to make and most later
    model
    s seen at shows etc seem to have the original radar (2nd type). Have you attempted the latest one ? Will dig out my old Billings version (P87) to see what it suggests and scan that part of the plan. : - did that and P87conforms to type 1 (very early kit - obeche not ply panels and printwood only) two little plastic
    model
    s have type 2 (japanese?) Revell PT117 again type 1.
    22 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    South West Ship Show
    Just spent a very pleasant day at the South West Ship Show in Bristol. What a nice little show. Enough local
    model
    clubs present to show a good range of
    model
    s, many of which I thought were made to a very high standard, as good as I've seen anywhere. Excellent range of nautical books, both new and secondhand on sale and there were enough stands present relating to full size ships to give the ship enthusiast an interesting day out which was an added bonus for those of us with a foot in both camps. Hope others enjoyed it as much as I did.
    23 days ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Hints & Tips
    Stephen , I think you are missing the point - this would not be about how to do one single thing - more like beginners general how to in a single thread. If we were all to post our little easy methods we have found over the years it would create an enormous number of headings in that section. Been making boat
    model
    s for well over 60 years and still learning new tricks.
    23 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Plan Sources
    Er... yes. I have also done a bit of research when drawing up the EeZeBilt PT boat. The US came late to the concept of light torpedo boats. The original doctrine, gathered from the old WW1 exploits of the MAS boats, was that these light boats would overcome capital ships by force of numbers and agility - typically in harbour defence scenarios where their lack of blue-water range was not an issue. Similarly, they could defend against prowling submarines. Since the US did not have any close maritime enemies, they did not consider light torpedo boats to be worth investing in. Strategy had moved on by WW2, and when the US finally considered them, with the 'Plywood Derby', their original raison d'etre had all but vanished. capital ships were surrounded by Torpedo Boat Destroyers, and radar meant that it would be suicide to consider approaching a 'big gun' enemy on the high seas. Nevertheless, the initial US PTB purchase specified armament for just this function - standard US Mk VIII tube-launched torpedos, smoke for concealment and 0.5 calibre machine guns for local/AA defence. This turned out to be almost completely useless in practice. The tactical doctrine makes engrossing reading: "...3401. Unsupported attack on enemy task force.-The plans for attacking an enemy convoy apply equally to attacking an enemy task force, the only material difference being that stiffer resistance may be expected and a great number of boats should normally be employed. 3402. Supported attacks in fleet action.-This type of attack has such a wide range of possibilities which depend on so many factors that it is not possible to recommend any general plan. Some of the possibilities, however, are listed below. (a) Night action with destroyer support where MTB's first attack the enemy screen, permitting destroyers to penetrate the screen and attack the - main body. (b) Night action with destroyer or light cruiser support where the DD's and CL's engage the screen, permitting MTB's to pierce the screen and attack the main body. (c) Day action where destroyers, aircraft and MTB's attack enemy main body simultaneously. MTB's launched from a carrier or operating from a fleet base. 3403. Attacks coordinated with aircraft.-Attacks by large numbers of motor torpedo boats and aircraft made simultaneously on enemy forces should be highly successful, as such attacks will present a great multiplicity of targets for enemy anti-aircraft and secondary batteries and will bring heavy striking power to bear on the enemy. The time of the attack will depend upon the motor torpedo boats, as aircraft can control their timing more readily. The aircraft attack may be a dive-bombing, strafing, or torpedo attack or any combination thereof. An aircraft torpedo attack, coordinated, should be made on opposite side from the MTB attack. A high altitude horizontal bombing attack will not divide the enemy's fire to the maximum extent, as he will not divert the use of his machine guns toward the bombers. In this type of attack all available motor torpedo boats should attack simultaneously...." !!! There are a number of propaganda stories during the early part of WW2 suggesting that PT boats were engaging and sinking Japanese cruisers. These all seem to be untrue, and circulated as 'morale boosters'. I can find few examples of a successful attack on a big ship - the strike on the light cruiser Abukuma by PT137 during the Battle of Surigao Strait (which was almost certainly a mistake!) is one notable example. The PT boats came into their own as shore harassing gunboats and inter-island supply interdiction once the initial Japanese advance halted, and that was when they began needing to add more guns. The Toku Daihatsu barges used for Japanese supply were almost immune to torpedoes, drawing only a foot or so, and were heavily armoured, so the 'Ma Deuces' were of limited use. Some early PT boats had a 20mm Oerlikon mounted on the stern. I have never seen one with twin Oerlikons mounted this way, though there might have been occasional one-offs. Invariably the armour plate on the gun was discarded for weight reasons. Single 20mm Oerlikons were also mounted on the front quarters, together with the distinctive 'horse-collar' M4 37mm cannon, initially from u/s Bell P-39 Airacobras, but later as a standard fitting. By 1945 they were adding 5" rockets... On the stern the boats were rapidly updated to carry a Bofors 40mm, which they could do when the heavy MkVIII torpedo tubes were replaced with light Mk XIII aircraft 'roll-off' torpedoes. A bit of a misnomer, this, as the torpedoes did not actually roll.... But I have never seen a PT Boat with a 35mm cannon on it. The radar fitting was one of three types: 1 - no radar 2 - SO dome 3 - SO-3 with rotating parabola. I wish there was a simple, cheap way to get a 1:48 Bofors gun. The EeZeBilt PT boats need a Bofors on the back, but I haven't managed to source one yet. And I suppose I should add torpedo tubes to provide accuracy across the whole PT range... Below is a picture of two EeZeBilt PT boats. The far one is an 1940
    model
    with no radar mast and a single Oerlikon on the stern. It should really have tubes as well, of course. Note the position of the life-raft on the bow. The near one is a 1944 fit, with an M4 at the front and SO radar. The life-raft has moved back to the top of the chart cabin. It should really have a Bofors on the stern, and a small boat on the day cabin, but I haven't made these yet. And, of course, no PT Boat had varnished wooden planking. But I just thought that it looked nice... 🤗
    23 days ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: (Naval Ship) MTB741 Fairmile D
    Hi Martin, Thanks for the compliments. Much appreciated. I am not one that does build blogs as such, but will post photos of the AHTS when there are some reasonable photos to post. It takes me a long time to make the
    model
    s and they don't always look pretty during construction.
    24 days ago by reilly4
    Blog
    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    After the trails, tribulations, experiments and frustration, can finally announce this
    model
    is sailing well. It has excellent performance and looks, both on and off the water. A build really for the more experienced
    model
    er though. If the performance envelope is to be explored it should be done on a suitably large area of water with few other vessels around. However, enjoyed building a
    model
    of an unusual class of vessels. It expanded my knowledge and skills, then kept me occupied throughout a Canadian winter! Have also been lucky to have received considerable useful advice from other
    model
    ers, which was much appreciated. Building from scratch off a proprietary glass fibre hull gives a robust
    model
    with plenty of opportunity for individual input. Intend to use this approach again. Whilst am rather blinkered about building scale
    model
    s to scale; considerable frustration, time and money could have been saved by using a single or even a twin screw layout, rather than the triple. Performance might also have been further improved and weight saved. Several of the U Tube videos of the similar Perkasa
    model
    s show how well these layouts work. There are several photos attached; 1) Stationary. 2) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 2S battery 3) Max. speed using the centre screw brushed motor and then the outer brushless screws on the 3S battery. Because the pond is small, was unable to capture the marked differences in performance between the 2 and 3 S batteries. It will plane easily on either, just rather more frenetically on the 3!. Suspect this was because of the difficulty in coordinating acceleration, photographer and deceleration. Will endeavour to get pictures and a video that make this more obvious and post when available.
    24 days ago by RHBaker
    Blog
    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    Thinking of a future project and decided upon another launch type vessel. My earlier Daman 4207 project gave an interesting
    model
    with good performance. The Brave class of FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) caught my attention. Can remember the incredible performance they offered when entering service. Only two of the class were used by the RN, although variants were used by other navies. Have decided to use proprietary Glass fibre hulls in future as they probably cost little more than building from scratch using wood and resin. They give a robust and watertight hull, but one which still requires thought to complete properly. There are several companies that offer a “Perkasa” hull, a Brave class derivative with an almost identical hull. From previous experience have decided to limit my
    model
    s to 40” long, larger vessels become difficult to transport and handle. After much research considered the hull offered by MTB Hulls in Gibraltar met my requirements best. The inquiry to MTBHulls was well handled; the quotation acceptable, so placed an order. Was pleasantly surprised at the shipping costs. From the UK these often approach the cost of the hull, but from Gibraltar they are much more reasonable. Delivery only took 7 days.
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Response
    Re: (Naval Ship) MTB741 Fairmile D
    Hi Martin, My newest 3
    model
    s are the ones I recently put up some photos. I am also building an anchor handling tug supplier - an AHTS200 from Damen shipyards. The Fairmile D was completed about 2011.
    24 days ago by reilly4
    Response
    Re: (Naval Ship) MTB741 Fairmile D
    Hi, I am new to this site and I was just looking around and trying to figure out what dose what when I came across your
    model
    . Excellent workmanship,you have made a fantastic
    model
    . You should be very proud of yourself. Are you working on another
    model
    ? Martin.
    25 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    LiPo batteries
    Please can I get some advice on LiPo batteries. I intend to buy a 3300-5000mAh battery to run an offshore power boat
    model
    . I will be taking the battery with me to Hungary to use on my local river which I have found is ok as hand luggage properly protected from short circuit. My problem is that at present, I only go there three time a year so the battery would remain unused for 4 months at a time. If I leave the battery with a safety charge, will it last for four months unused or will it fall below the critical voltage. If it is felt that it will not hold the charge, I will have to carry it with me forward and back. Thanks.😊
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Re: Fairacre broads cabin cruiser
    Thanks Colin, I try to get my
    model
    s looking as realistic as possible at a distance without going overboard on detail. Scale top speed for most MTBs ASRs for example would only really be around 5-7 mph not hydroplane speeds as you usually see,- doesn't look quite right. I also like seeing if I can get a photo of a
    model
    looking like the real thing, using mini cams on other boats etc (pic is vid capture of my MTB just on dusk, taken from my Maiami ASR). Hard to achieve but lots of fun trying.
    27 days ago by jbkiwi
    Blog
    HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.
    Hi Guys, I decided that I would try and get some of the big bits made, so as I had plenty of plastic card the main superstructure was first followed by the bridge then funnel and main mast. All the above was only roughly assembled so that I could get an idea of how it would look. The final trimming, filling, and sanding would be done as and when I worked on each assembly. The way I tend to work on my
    model
    s is as follows. Try to make individual modules then work on one module at a time until completed then move on to the next. The only reason I do this is that at my age I tend to forget bits, and if I were to move about over different parts of the boat I can guarantee that that I would miss something or put something on in the wrong place. The photos show the rough assembly, I will post the completed assembly's as I get further along with this log. Whilst I am waffling on I do have a little tip/trick that I use often. I use tracing paper (baking sheet) I mark out the lines or shape on the paper then put a small drop off plastic glue on the line then position the first part, after a short time the glue sets then I place the next part of the assembly on the sheet and glue that In position. When the assembly is complete and dry it is just a case of gently removing the baking sheet, then removing the small bits of glue with a scalpel. You can see this method works well in one of the photos. (part of the bridge assembly)
    27 days ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Motor, speed controller
    Hi there, this is a rescue boat which was being used by one of our members on Sunday - sorry about the quality of the picture - as I had to blow it up from another photo. I thought it may give you an idea as I am sure it uses a 500 motor as a drive and its got two smaller 400 motors, I believe, driving smaller props either side of the
    model
    rather than the bow thrusters. It also has two arms on the front to capture the stricken
    model
    . Its about 18 inches to 2 foot long and if he brings it down this Sunday, I will try and get more detailed photographs of it if you wish. I may have all the details wrong, as I haven't had much time to look at the
    model
    - it belongs to Terry from the Club, anyway. :-)+
    27 days ago by JOHN
    Forum
    RC
    model
    Shark
    Anyone have plans , links or experience on Rc Sharks , I would like to build one. With a working tail movement If possible . Cheers
    5 years ago by CraigRobotham
    Forum
    Look for a simple balsa build
    "I know this isn't a good help to the beginner, but, like everything else in life - we must learn from mistakes and we do all make mistakes no matter how good we are" from John. How right you are - been running the laser for commercial purposes for 10years (
    model
    s are my hobby that I sneak in when I can) and still make mistakes. Life seems to be one long learning curve. Even my wife still makes mistakes and she's been using her laser since 1993! There is no substitute for experience and Dodgy's EezEbilts are all relatively easy to make even if there are a few minor errors which are so easily correctable.
    28 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Look for a simple balsa build
    Having owned a laser cutter for nearly 10 years , I have found that most old hand drawn plans are inaccurate and a lot of the old die cut kit parts are not only inaccurate but in most cases the bulkheads for instance are asymmetrical. When making a
    model
    you have to first correct the bulkheads etc (not difficult using Corel) and then cut a prototype to determine what further errors there are. Back to the drawing board to correct those, and then a further test cut etc. In the early days it would take about 6 versions to correct all the errors , but with experience have now whittled it down to about 3 as areas likely to have errors can be anticipated. There is also the difficulty of for instance "3mm" thick material that can vary from about 2.7mm to 3.4mm and that can mean parts don't fit. Having said that I have cut most of the EezEbilt
    model
    s from the site and the errors are minor besides being balsa they are easy to correct especially using water-resistant quick drying PVA glue. With enlarged versions you have to correct the slots etc so its easy enough to check on Corel for any inaccuracies. (That is one of the beauties of digital plans - you can produce a
    model
    at any size you choose). Most Lasers use dxf CAD files which Corel converts for you either way importing or exporting. One of the drawbacks my partner and I see is that in CAD drawings a curve is represented by a large number of straight lines which makes for a very large file. In Corel a curve is simply a curve and hence a much smaller file. PDF files are very problematic for most
    model
    lers as for instance two files imported from the same source can vary in size dramatically and you then have parts that don't match. The same applies to printing pdf plans in parts on an A4 printer - the pages very often don't line up. JPG files are much less of a problem as sizes go. My personal feeling is that the mismatch of parts is probably due to the use of pdf files with their associated problems. Some printers unfortunately do not allow you to adjust sizes other than in a rudimentary fashion.
    29 days ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Look for a simple balsa build
    Hi there, Glynn Guest is a gent who does a lot of plans and articles in
    model
    Boats Magazine - and - if you have a look at this month's issue (May 2019) you will see he has done a little RIB
    model
    - using an inexpensive waterjet unit. If you have a look at Sarik plans you will see there are a few of his designs that crop up and they are fairly simple. Another good idea is to look on EBAY for
    model
    boat mags for sale (make sure they have the plans included). The two
    model
    s I have mentioned HMS Penelope and MTB are both designed by Glynn. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-
    model
    -BOAT-PLAN-HMS-VULCAN-WW2-BIG-GUN-MONITOR-MM-20859-30-5-LONG-ORIGINAL/163488240343?hash=item2610a892d7:g:8ZwAAOSwe09ZmBYm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-
    model
    -BOAT-PLAN-VIVACE-MM-2104-PATROL-LAUNCH-FOR-NDQ-WATER-JET-ORIGINAL/153340585748?hash=item23b3cfa714:g:pM8AAOSwz71ZPpm9 John
    30 days ago by JOHN
    Blog
    The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage
    model
    Works
    Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My
    model
    making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some
    model
    aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to
    model
    making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender. So here we go Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW. I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that? One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    My plan is to trace PDF files into DSM and output as DXF, or work up my own drawings. I have DXF to G code so I guess I could deal with your files. When finished, my OX will be used for all sorts, cutting aluminium is a must, Daughter has demanded name plaques for her horses stable, she reckons her horsey pals will pay for nice carved name plaques so who am I to argue! ply and balsa cutting will be essential and possibly light brass sheet, hence my first choice of the 900 Watt DeWalt router. I may well end up with an arsenal of spindles/routers and eventually a laser head. I am using the CNC shield for now but the intention is to use a Rumba board, a versatile Arduino mega 2560 based board with loads of output options more commonly used on 3D printers, I have upgraded 2 of my printers with them already. Like 3D printers, the options for modifying/tweaking are endless. I will be fitting endstops, but I may use TMC 2130 drivers, which do not need endstops, as soon as they detect a substancial increase in current they switch off. My Mk3 Prusa has them, certainly reduces the ammount of wiring! I have a notion to draw up some plans for a series of warship boats at rc able size, ie, 47ft Whaler, Skimming Dish FML Cheverton Launch etc, interesting boats but rarely seen actually on the water as working
    model
    s. I have a milling machine so a plentiful supply of milling cutters is available for a range of jobs.
    1 month ago by Nickthesteam


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info