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    Blog
    HMS Bustler
    HMS Bustler deep sea rescue tug ,built at Henry Robb Shipbuilders Leith where I served my time . Hull is 6mm ply with 2mm ply deck ,superstructure and bridge were constructed earlier from 18mm mdf . Ship will be a static
    model
    ,one day I will bite the bullet and attempt Rc
    25 days ago by marky
    Blog
    Ketch Barge ''Pearl of Ipswich''
    Hello, As I have mentioned before, I like the workboats from the age of sailing. The sailing barges caught my interest some time ago on one of my stays in the UK and I recently purchased a number of books on them. interesting history, more to it than I realized. Finally decided to build a Ketch Barge that is categorized as a Boomie as well. Several reasons; I wanted to
    model
    one of the larger ones, this one is 85', and I like gaff rigged boats with booms. Topsails a must as well and I like ketches. This one fits the bill and who could resist the chance to set 7 to 8 sails! Frank Carr's book tells the story of the barge Pearl and included plan, elevation, lines and sail plans. Nice bit of information, I can build with that. See attached photos. This will probably be a lengthy build, my Falmouth Gaff-rigged Cutter took me two years. I built that one while on assignment in Grand Cayman using only my small kit OD hand tools. More to come, hope to start this week. Cheers, Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the ‘Vintage
    model
    Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new
    model
    with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The
    model
    is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular
    model
    kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the
    model
    in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Aziz, Westerriff, Assurance Envoy for sale
    These three boats are still for sale, with no offers to date. I am inviting offers, and I really am not looking to retire on the proceeds, and I will give very serious consideration to any offers received. I do need to make space in the very near future, and I guess Ebay or public auctions may be the next move, however I would rather give a purchase opportunity to
    model
    boat enthusiasts prior to offering to the west of the world :-) . All three boats have been constructed to a very high standard, and are in exceptional order. The boats are located in Cheshire, South Manchester, close to the motorway network. Thank you, Dave
    14 days ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    Static
    model
    Boat Builders
    Hey Taffy, good to see someone else doing static
    model
    s. What I have in mind is a "Static
    model
    Boats" group. Any one would be welcome. Resource for everything related to building static
    model
    s. Ive been building for several years and have supply links,
    model
    plans & links, sharing what has worked and what hasnt. Ill get with the owner to make sure I set this up correctly. Looking forward to chatting with you in regard to your projects.
    1 day ago by retirement-hobby
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Eppleton Hall
    I am in the process of building a 32nd scale
    model
    of the paddle tug "Eppleton Hall" from scratch, for the most part. The hull is complete now and ready for fiberglass. Stay tuned for progress updates... (Motor: 540 MFA 919D) (ESC: VIPER Marine 25) (10/10)
    6 months ago by Ishmael
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Northlight Clyde Puffer
    The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. it is a representative
    model
    of a typical small coaster from the Western isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. it has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in
    model
    building. it has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. it has a large hull which is easy to house the motor, ESC, RC and batteries, etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt batteries, one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening. (Motor: MFA) (ESC: Viper Marine 15) (9/10)
    2 years ago by ads90
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)
    This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring
    model
    ler. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh paint here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)
    5 months ago by ads90
    Blog
    Shop/Refrigerator
    Not much, happening this time of year. The shop doesn't have heat, so things like batteries that shouldn't be left in the cold come in the house, and the shop which seems to stay at or near 40°f/4°c, become an annex to our refrigerator. Now and then we get a warm day or three, and I open the doors because it's actually warmer outside than in, but more often than not what gets done is for other folks, and not the
    model
    s. Spring is about a month off, but we'll likely get get some warmer days before that and I have been doodling some thoughts on what to address on all three
    model
    s when the opportunity appears. On Constellation that's chainplates, pinrails, and getting the mizzen bracing working - a fairlead got some epoxy in it and needs to be cleared. I also want to get into some details like railings on the mast tops, and the bands that the futtocks attach to on the masts. if you don't know what that is, just wait and it'll be explained.
    27 days ago by Jerry Todd
    Blog
    The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage
    model
    Works
    Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My
    model
    making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some
    model
    aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to
    model
    making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender. So here we go Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW. I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that? One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.
    1 year ago by mturpin013
    Blog
    Painting the hull – Part 2. The hull colour
    Time to make a decision on what colour the hull should be…🤔 The instructions say ‘Navy Blue’ but that just doesn’t look right, just too light. In the ‘photos of the splendid
    model
    in the National Maritime museum the hull appears to be black while in the colour video clips on YouTube it appears dark, possibly black, but in keeping with the ‘boys in blue’ nature of the vessel I think a very dark blue would be more appropriate. I have seen this on some other Thames Police Launch
    model
    s that I have admired and it looks ‘right’ so to speak. Just to convince myself I generated a ‘colour palette’ in Photoshop to make a direct comparison between black and a couple of deep blues that looked like possible candidates. I used the RAL co-ordinates of the two blues in question to generate the colours and decided on RAL 5004 as the favourite and then ordered a couple of 400ml rattle cans from a custom paint supplier, I chose a satin finish rather than full gloss. They arrived a few days later and I did a spray test on a scrap piece of board with the anti-fouling below with a white waterline between and was very pleased with my choice. The red oxide was carefully masked off and the area to be painted cleaned off with some panel wipe on a clean paper towel, then into the spray booth for the first light coat. This painting was done during a very cold spell in early January 2019 and I took the precaution of taking the boat indoors the night before to keep it warm and also pre-heat the workshop before bringing it out, I also used my hot air gun to gently warm the hull prior to spraying and then again after the first coat was applied. I’d like to think that this helped the process and prevented the seasonal temperature and humidity levels causing any adverse effects on the finish. The second coat was applied about 20 minutes later and the solvents flashed off by the heat gun again. I’ll add that the heat gun was used at a distance of about two feet and the booth is fan vented to outside and…. ‘I am that masked man’. Back on the bench and with the masking removed the paint finish looks very satisfactory to me, I just need to apply the white ‘Trimline Tape’ for the watermark to finish the hull before spraying with a couple of coats of satin lacquer. Then it will be ready for it’s first showing at the London
    model
    show at Ally Pally on the St. Albans
    model
    Engineering Society stand alongside my RAF Crash Tender. More on that ‘Trimline Tape’ later……🤕
    3 days ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Yacht) French Pond Yacht
    Based on traditional pond yachts, I've seen online, I've come up with this simple design, to be built from ordinary ply, card or balsa. there's no shear, that's because I wanted to keep the design simple. Feel free to download would really appreciate any photos of
    model
    s & comments, thank-you. (5/10) 16/03/2019 I've revised Drawing -1
    8 days ago by Nifty_Paul
    Forum
    model
    Slipway Tug AZIZ
    Just confirmation that this vessel has now been sold, and is soon to be returned to service. Many thanks to the new owner. Dave
    4 days ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    model
    Slipway Tug AZIZ
    Further to the previously mentioned craft, the
    model
    Slipway Tug/supply vessel 'Aziz' is also for sale. 1:50 scale, and measuring just over 110 cms. Again, constructed to the highest of standards, and with excellent detail, the craft has been used only sparingly. As with the other boats, the radio/electrical gear needs attention, as it is only presently fitted with the two motors and the rudder servo. This is a very impressive looking vessel, and I will give serious consideration to any offers that may be forthcoming. Many thanks, Dave
    20 days ago by Davecounty
    Response
    Hull finishing touches
    Stuart - as you can see from the article in
    model
    Boats, Colin has fitted a contrasting timber to the perimeter of the hull and up the centre of the bow and then infilled with planking. Another method is to veneer the deck and just varnish it or drawn lines on it with Biro or pencil before varnishing. SLEC do laser etched ply but the planks are straight. Really it depends on how accurate you want the result to be and how much time you want to spend on it. With my Huntsman 28 build I'm just using birch ply and varnishing it whilst with my larger Swordsman 33 (but same scale) I'm going the whole hog and planking it. Chris
    5 days ago by ChrisF
    Blog
    The well deck floor & sides.
    The ‘box’ of the prototype I’m building is made of balsa wood, later production
    model
    s are produced in ply and have the planking lines laser etched on the floor panels, and as balsa doesn’t take stain particularly well I have used separate obeche panels to line the box internally that can be finished with the Teak stain that I’m using. This does, however, mean that I can apply the deck lines using a black indelible marker pen and incorporate some detail lines around the motor housing. I started by cutting and shaping two obeche panels that join along the centre line of the deck and fit neatly around the motor mount and prop-shaft, then I used some tracing paper over the panels to make a test pattern for the planking lines. When I was happy with the layout of the lines I first applied two coat of Teak stain to the panels, and when that was dry I used a .8mm pen to mark the deck lines, the ink takes a while to dry fully and I found it all too easy to smudge some lines 😡 which had to be very quickly taken off with a dampened cotton bud and re-applied. After 24 hours the ink had fully dried and was impervious to smudging and resistant to removal by any means (except a solvent). The floor panels were then glued down to the balsa floor with an even spread of aliphatic glue and weighted down over all of the area as there was a tendency for the panels to curl and lift. Each side panel was made in one piece and then separated into two parts to make the fitting easier, the join will be covered with a vertical detail strip, and they were also stained before being glued and clamped in place. No lining detail was applied to the side panels as I’ll do this with other surface applied pieces later but only in the area outside of the cabin. All the panels were given a couple of coats of satin lacquer to enhance and protect the finish.
    5 days ago by robbob
    Forum
    Rigging a
    model
    barge
    Hi, here I put rope diameters (above mentioned) . Kathleen ropes - in attachment
    6 days ago by tomarack
    Forum
    Rigging a
    model
    barge
    I am building a
    model
    Thames sailing barge and have reached the stage of spars and rigging. I am wondering what to use to make the main shrouds and forestay. Pictures that I have seen look as if it is a
    model
    rope product rather than a wire. Can anyone tell me what they have used please.
    10 days ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Rigging a
    model
    barge
    Many thanks for your advice. I think you have confirmed what I had worked out from looking at pictures of
    model
    barges and other craft, however the very comprehensive dimensions you have given on facebook are very welcome and will help me a lot.
    6 days ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Rigging a
    model
    barge
    Hi, on Facebook I have added for you to the dimensions of the rigging corresponding rope diameters for the 1:24
    model
    . I think the wires are more suitable for a static
    model
    . On my
    model
    s I used black waxed cotton(?) string with a diameter of 1 mm for shrouds and fore stay. For other ropes I use cotton strings and cords produced by ropewalk . For main sheet , vangs and jibsheets I use braided fishing lines. Ivor Bittle reccommended black leather strings for main shrouds please look here > ( https://www.ivorbittle.com/ ) - very usable pages !!! Tom
    6 days ago by tomarack
    Forum
    Rigging a
    model
    barge
    Hull is a 30" generic Mastman hull. Will be RC. I have all but finished the hull, now making spars. Photos I have seen all look like rigging rope, available from various sources, Mastman etc. but I was wondering if it would be better if I used a wire. if so, what do I use. Cornwall
    model
    boats don't seem to list a wire. Bear in mind, difference in thickness for mainmast rigging to topmast. Any ideas?
    6 days ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Rigging a
    model
    barge
    Question, is this intended to be a scale static
    model
    or are you building a sailing RC
    model
    ? Joe
    7 days ago by Joe727
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Accidently deleted posts - Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 3 ) hi there With regard the servo rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some
    model
    s there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the
    model
    is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light
    model
    s. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲
    7 days ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Anyone into CNC, or perhaps looking to get into it? I am wondering about putting my plans out as G Code, and it would be useful to have a discussion about the practicalities. For instance, what bed size do people use?
    model
    boat plans are a bit specialist for most CNC boards. They worry about cutting hard materials - we mainly use balsa and ply. Their machines are usually square - ours would need to be long and thin. They use big commercial routers and spindles - we could get away with smaller motors and dental burrs. I picked up one of these over Christmas, and am currently going through the learning curve. But it doesn't seem to be all that difficult.... https://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/index.php?seo_path=eshapeoko-cnc-milling-machine-mechanical-kit
    2 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Graupner Neptun
    Scale 1:87 HO Graupner Neptun older kit but not of any specific ship, just a generic coastal freighter with or w/o cranes. Inside is a Graupner 350 motor geared 3:1; speed control; using one 7.2v 2400 NiMH Found a post of some else’s work. https://www.
    model
    boatmayhem.co.uk/
    model
    lers/Mark_Wilkes/neptun.htm
    9 days ago by Ron
    Directory
    (Other) Searcher 2
    First
    model
    ever made.. My ignorance of RC shows as I used a donor hull using 27MHz (To be changed at a later date) 1:32 scale Delta 7.5mtr RHIB used by Her Majesty's Customs, eventually to be sailed in conjunction with my next
    model
    , a 1:32 scale
    model
    of Damen Stan 4207 HMC Searcher. (8/10)
    9 days ago by RayA
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc
    model
    aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about brushless motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.
    9 days ago by Dick
    Forum
    Anteo 2 Tug
    if your intending to use a car ESC have a good read before you buy some of them require you to select reverse then go back to neutral before selecting reverse again to actually reverse the motor. The first reverse acts as a brake. Just to satisfy my curiosity why did you want brushed rather than brushless? There are a lot of brushless motors used in the
    model
    car sport and generally have advantages over brushed motors.
    9 days ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    CS Mackey Bennett
    Thinking of a
    model
    of this cable ship. Drawings from Greenwich have become ridiculously expensive. Does anyone ha be any ideas where I could get drawings, and hopefully photos?
    10 days ago by Gdaynorm
    Response
    Commission 44347
    I also have the same
    model
    , i struggled a bit with the balsa planking but eventually managed it. I was never happy with my UK version of the upperworks so ive since stripped it all down & am basically starting all over again but with the hull intact
    9 days ago by ibobide
    Forum
    Help identify
    Hi Sid, If the number is correct she's based on an RAF 60 foot General Service Pinnace. http://www.rafboats.co.uk/pin60gsmk2spec.html But the hull shape doesn't fit! See attached pics of number 1261, closest I could find to 1258 but from the same batch. Nearest I could find that fits the hull and superstructure shape of the
    model
    at the bow is the 65ft Walton HSL (High Speed Launch). http://rafboats.co.uk/hslw65.html See pics attached pics of #2642. She was a 'One Off' which never went into production. Hope this helps, or does it just add to the confusion!?🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 days ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Enclosing the controls.
    I've spent a few bob with SLEC up to now, I get all of my
    model
    ling timber supplies from them, excellent range of hardwood and softwood, very good prices and next day delivery....what's not to like 👍 Rover P4, a beautiful car and well worth restoring too. Just remember to compliment your wife on the excellent condition of her chassis and low running costs now and again 😜. She might be happy for you spend more on boats then 😁. Rob.
    11 days ago by robbob
    Blog
    Cooling the motor – update.
    I’m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the Turnigy motor as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the motor. I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the motor stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the motor and attach the new piece to the motor using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better ‘engineering’ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the
    model
    anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the motor cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The motor is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the motor running and I’m delighted to report that there’s a very healthy airflow through the motor cover 😁👍. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the twin motors on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a ‘photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of servo mounts. Take a look at the motors in his picture!
    11 days ago by robbob
    Response
    Enclosing the controls.
    Hi Doug. The SLEC version of the Police launch is similar in design but it's only 26" in length, they bought up the Vintage
    model
    Boat Company a while ago so that's possibly a reason for the confusion as the names are quite similar. The Vintage
    model
    Works version has been re-designed by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer Phil Smith, and has be re-scaled to a full 36" in length and thus is more able to accommodate modern running gear, and has the potential for much more detailing as I have done on my build. Hi Boatshed. The boat is nearing completion and looking pretty ship shape now 😁. I'm unsure why the VMW boat kits are not priced on their website either 🤔 and I would encourage you to contact Mike Cummings to find out more about the VMW range. All the best guys. Rob.
    11 days ago by robbob
    Response
    Hull progressing nicely!
    I hate the idea of having to shape the balsa front ends. I have in the past re cut the bottom skins on 1/16th marine ply and steamed and pinned with small brass nails. But if that
    model
    is all balsa you couldn't do that but if the bulkheads are ply and chine stringers then it is possible.
    11 days ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    very nice bit of shaping on the balsa there and filling. I purchased a Perkasa MTB hull off of a boot fair and that part they have done is awful. I have got to sort that out. As far as the motor size goes, I put a 10 cc Irvine engine in a
    model
    boat that should only have had a 7.5cc in it. it went like stink. But even then it would all depend on how you use your throttle control. I would myself still go larger than instructions say but that's because I'm a speed freak. Flat out on the straight and test to the extreme on turn's. Turned a couple upside down as well and still was able to carry on running once recovered. I always take a telescopic fishing rod with me with a weight and floating line for recovery.
    11 days ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    I guess you will only be able to tell properly is when it's primered. I suppose you could always fill it and resand - that will be my fallback position! Is the motor size in the instructions? Had a look at a build article and it's not in there. if you haven't got it it's well worth getting because as well as the build of that very kit Dave Milbourn has written an article on finishing nd painting which I'm reffering to. it's the
    model
    Boats Winter Special Edition 2018. Chris
    11 days ago by ChrisF
    Response
    Enclosing the controls.
    Hi Boaty. Thank you for you compliments, I'm pleased you're enjoying my build blog 😁. The VMW kit has been developed really well and does credit to the original designer so definitely put one on your 'to-do' list. The kit is now available from VMW: http://www.vintage
    model
    works.co.uk/?page_id=18 The servo in mine is actually in a rear compartment that I formed and involves a bit of 'keyhole surgery' to work within but it means that the servo and all the operational running gear is very neatly hidden away, another benefit of the re-scaled version of this boat 👍. PS. Note the relocated antenna ! Robbob.
    11 days ago by robbob
    Response
    Enclosing the controls.
    From Boaty I am following your post with interest as I had been thinking about building a Police Launch in the near future.
    model
    s with aft cockpits can present issues when installing RC gear and I have experienced this when building an Aerokits Sea Scout and five years ago when restoring the Crash Tender. Simplest method is to install the servo horizontally and raise the cockpit floor but this can create problems in itself unless the floor is sealed around the edges to prevent water entering the compartment. The seat idea is a realistic method as it could be eliminate the problems that I mentioned above as well as providing easier access to the RC gear. Keep up the good work Boaty😁
    11 days ago by boaty
    Response
    Brave Borderer
    Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both brushless ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to “turn”. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre brushed motor. This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of
    model
    Boats that explains the concept.
    12 days ago by RHBaker
    Blog
    H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
    Thinking of a future project and decided upon another launch type vessel. My earlier Daman 4207 project gave an interesting
    model
    with good performance. The Brave class of FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) caught my attention. Can remember the incredible performance they offered when entering service. Only two of the class were used by the RN, although variants were used by other navies. Have decided to use proprietary Glass fibre hulls in future as they probably cost little more than building from scratch using wood and resin. They give a robust and watertight hull, but one which still requires thought to complete properly. There are several companies that offer a “Perkasa” hull, a Brave class derivative with an almost identical hull. From previous experience have decided to limit my
    model
    s to 40” long, larger vessels become difficult to transport and handle. After much research considered the hull offered by MTB Hulls in Gibraltar met my requirements best. The inquiry to MTBHulls was well handled; the quotation acceptable, so placed an order. Was pleasantly surprised at the shipping costs. From the UK these often approach the cost of the hull, but from Gibraltar they are much more reasonable. Delivery only took 7 days.
    11 months ago by RHBaker
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Just moved these two posts that were posted further down my blog by mistake as they are significant to the discussion and bring back the subject as I think its important as I would like to know if any others have a view. the photo is Johns Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 2 ) hi there With regard the servo rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some
    model
    s there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the
    model
    is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light
    model
    s. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲
    12 days ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Ellesmere Port
    model
    Boat Club
    jn 6 just off m53 ch651bq we are right next to the m53 hooton park trust ,its a world war 1& 2 airbase that is being returned to as it was in the before vauxhall motors to it over and we have a field onsite where we have built our own pool
    12 days ago by nutrunner
    Blog
    Brave Borderer
    During our protracted wait for Spring, have had chance to reflect on the earlier tribulations with the brushless motor installation. My enthusiasm was sparked by an article on getting the best from your Tx in a magazine and the advantages of using the Elevon or V Tail facilities if available. My Flysky Rx/Tx has this facility, so after some experiments, set the boat up to use the Elevon function. This puts both motor ESCs on the same control lever, so advancing the control accelerates both screws equally and moving to either side accelerates, or slows the appropriate motor. Think this will reduce the coordination previously required to sail in a straight line. Fresh from that success decided to experiment further. The Tx allows reducing Servo throw, so tried that too so could reduce the max. ESC output, it also seems to work. One problem with the original layout was that if the forward speed was reduced quickly it was very easy to move the lever through the neutral point, overshooting into reverse. This immediately reversed that motor causing erratic operation. The Tx also has a “Dual Rate” facility to adjust the lever response from linear to various alternate rates. This allows the neutral point zone to be increased, so the tendency to overshoot into reverse is reduced. Bench tests of these adjustments suggest the
    model
    will be easier to operate. Hope they will make controlling the
    model
    s performance better in our closest pool, which is quite small. A further precaution to prevent inadvertent operation of the brushless motors when using the centre, brushed one, was to add two small relays; one into each of the white ESC signal wires. This allows a another channel on the Tx to be used to select, or deselect the brushless motors. Anticipate that by turning this channel and thus the brushless ESCs off, manoeuvring can be accomplished without the operation being overwhelmed by a brushed motor inadvertently being operated. My patience for Spring is getting thinner!
    13 days ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Planking
    What type of boat/ship if its purely a sport boat you can cover the planking with tissue and dope then high build primer. Sand it down and paint with whatever takes your fancy. On the other hand if your wanting the planking to show ( scale type
    model
    ) you need to seal the wood on the outside and inside with a decent varnish that should provide all sealing you need.
    13 days ago by Haverlock
    Response
    Search light
    In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light
    model
    s. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲
    13 days ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Search light
    hi there With regard the servo rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some
    model
    s there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the
    model
    is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John
    13 days ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    Hi, As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this. Especially .. this type is mainly designed for aircraft control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship
    model
    . This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified servo. in the base allows only proportional control of servos or ESC. There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT but these are far more expensive... The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for engine control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the rudder. there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-. channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions. These channels again allow only proportional control. Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6 settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this) It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the receiver !!) before you all plug in the
    model
    . I hope it helped you a little bit.. Tom
    13 days ago by tomarack
    Forum
    Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50
    Well said sir, I wholeheartedly agree, I always try to use free stuff or at least recycle into my
    model
    s. I only wish I had your talent so that I could do away with the technology I use, especially when it keeps failing because the world expects the latest updates which causes my old tech to fail. Still no excuse, I just don't have your superb skill set. Keep it up shipmate. Cheers Colin.
    13 days ago by Colin H
    Response
    Ellesmere Port
    model
    Boat Club
    the traders will be staying on site not sure if the trust will let he public stay overnight will try and find out for u but there ae plenty of places local where u can park up
    13 days ago by nutrunner


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