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    Forum
    Time to let go !
    For some time now, I've been addicted to purchasing beautiful things, particularly well made things, without much thought for my family, my job, or where the heck I'm going to put them ! On one such escapade I helped out with disposing of a small flotilla of very well made boats, with the intention of keeping one, and having made my decision on which one to keep, the rest must now sail away ! I must admit that I'm a sucker for 'plug N play' the easy way out possibly, but I really don't yet have the time to build a kit myself, which is my aim for the future . Ho Hum. Anyway, enough about me, what about the boats ? I hear. Well, the first is a very well constructed Model Slipway 1:43 scale Assurance Class WW2 armed tug. The model has sailed previously, but is presently only fitted with a motor, rudder servo and various wiring. It will of course need finishing in this respect. The build quality is excellent, and is as it should be, except for a little attention required to the rigging, as visible in the images. Also, the white I.D. decals are slightly flaking, on the port side ( now I am being picky, but that's about the extent of 'things to do'). I guess the initiated will know the spec. but if any further info is required, please do ask. I am open to very sensible offers for this, and the other boats that I will be releasing. I purchased a collection, to save them from a commercial brokerage, and to retain one for my own use, which is now the case. Please do ask any questions, or let me know if you need further images of any aspect of the craft. Of course, I will not post, and it will be advisable for a prospective buyer to view first. The boat is presently moored in South Manchester, with easy access from the motorway network. Best regards.
    3 months ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    Tony O
    No Doug, you have quite the wrong idea about me. I would love to get a club going and have done all I could to do so including meeting the one only geezer who offered to have a cuppa in the local caff. We parted with him saying he'd tell those members of a distant club he went to that had water problems and would call me. Guess what? You know the rest. THAT's why my attitude is **** '**. I've had it constantly from model boaters. Little enclaves of mates who will NOT countenance new members (model railways clubs too as it happens, more old farts). What else should I say faced with that attitude. No, I am NOT a tolerant or patient man, that's for sure. Patience is just an excuse for wasting time. I have no idea what apps are available for 'phone control. I don't even have one. Whilst my kids have made an excellent job generally of raising my Grandchildren, they don't seem to know either what to do about the latest fad for Playstation and 'phone. But one things for sure, none of them show the slightest interest in making or doing anything and are part of the first generation to be absolutely bloody useless. I just hope the three of my 5 grandchildren who have common sense will do something with that, but I know damned well it won't be keeping modelmaking going or any other endeavour that requires real skill and application. These matters are of concern in all the hobbies I have any interest in. Old boats (yes Woodies and why not?), old aircraft, old bikes and old cars. As long as WE live, eh? Well that ain't gonna be that much longer in any kind of fit state to go the pond on a regular basis with heavy models. So actually we WILL be witnessing the death of all those groups I mention above and many more. From the care home windows, unless we're lucky enough to cop our clogs before that living death happens. When you hear "Can't be arsed" from the mouths of, effectively, babes, you know the craft world is in trouble. And I mean craft, not gluing bits of cut card together with Prit sticks under the banner of that foul word "crafting". I really couldn't give a **** if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. in another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff. And as far as I can see they don't. My comments about the future are based on my observations and chats with established long term members of those hobbies who all agree the end really is nigh. All those balding, grey haired, pot bellied, probably bearded old geezers standing around with stoops from their long knackered backs, all wondering whether this time next year they'll still have their Honda Jazz or a mobility scooter. If that's how it's all going, so be it. As you say we won't be here to witness the real death. And the more exciting aspects of the model hobby? There was a programme on tonight about modelmakers flying re-runs of Battle of Britain air battles with similar sized models, laser guns, damage smoke, etc. 2 youngish blokes, the rest, including the German contingent, older guys. Oh and a Tranny and I don't mean a transmitter! in 10 years time that programme will not be makeable. BTW the Tranny was by far the best pilot. Cheers, Martin
    8 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Mahogany in Scale
    Doug, I don't generally "do" foreign and Pete certainly wouldn't. As you say, most are model railway or strictly stick and string model ships. What we wanted to do was a general model hobby museum with a bias toward the RC hobbies. Ain't none of them. History of RC, RC cars, boats and aircraft. Materials, tools, etc. Mags and books, that kind of thing. Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    Fairly Hunsman renovation part 1
    Hi It's probably a Precedent hull. Check out the
    model boats mag
    forum site. They have a guru on the Huntsman !! Dave Milbourne. Canabus
    10 months ago by canabus
    Forum
    Outboards...and then some!
    Hi all, I don't know if anyone on here is interested. many may even be unaware, but there's a thing called 152VO. Scale 1:5.2 scale models of vintage outboard motor-powered kneeler hydros. It's been around since 2011 as far as I can make out. It is superbly organised with the ultimate point of competition of a friendly kind. VERY popular in Germany and The Netherlands. There are a few kits now available, loads of plans of real boats and a lot of very nice fittings and accesories. There a few outboard motors available which can be fitted with brushless motors if you prefer. The models have to fit a certain mathematical formula, to give choices, but remain reasonably well matched to make for driver skill being more important than money-ruled boats. Kind of the opposite of F1. If you need any help with imagining these things, here's a pic. of a MODEL pits. Right down to the floating moorings. I would SO like to see this take off in Britain. Here's their website. Iffy translation, OK, but pretty much understandable if you don't speak German or Dutch. https://152vo.de/ Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Norfolk Wherry Fans
    Just a note for Norfolk Wherry fans that "Model Boats" Magazine (UK) will be featuring the boats in its September 2018 edition.
    10 months ago by CB90
    Media
    Norfolk Wherry
    Some pictures of my Dad's Norfolk Wherry seen here at Eton Park, Norwich. it will be featured in September 2018 "Model Boats" magazine along with his mates Wherry. It is about 4ft long note my 3ft 72nd scale Corvette looks small next to it.
    10 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    Fittings & Detail Parts
    Wow! Harbor Models is amazing! Their selection of kits & detail parts is outstanding. Thanks for letting me know about it. There are only a few hobby shops in my area. They all have at least a few R/C boats in stock but they’re mostly the racing type. There was an excellent store called Bliss Marine over a hundred miles away in Dedham, MA (near Boston) that stocked kits & parts in addition to parts & accessories for full-size fishing boats & yachts. They stocked the whole line of Billing Boats kits & fittings as well as several other brands. I used to buy from Bliss via mail order or by phone back in the pre-Internet era but their service was super fast. Every time we’d go down to the family cottage near Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA I always stopped at Bliss. I’d tell my wife I’d only be in the store for β€œa few minutes” but she knew my β€œfew minutes” would almost always be at least an hour. Sadly, not only is Bliss Marine long gone but so is the Hull cottage. it was damaged beyond repair during hurricane Bob in 1991. The decision was made not to rebuild it & the lot it stood on was sold to a neighbor. Sigh. But I digress. Fortunately I found this fantastic website! Although I signed up just a short time ago I’ve read dozens of interesting posts & have received quick answers to my questions from other friendly Model Boats members. This site is a goldmine! Thanks for your fast, helpful reply! Pete
    11 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Forum
    Wherry hull in GRP
    nothing has been ruined boatshed, as you know when we take on a new build that we like to be sure things are correct to the real boats and if we are to part with our hard earned money things need to be right in the first place and not need loads of work to put it right before you can start building. CB90 i'm guessing that your farther was the original build that was in the
    model boats mag
    azines back in 1985, it was coming across this article that got me intrigued in these boats and have been researching ever since if you have any more info on your fathers builds that would be great. cheers Ron
    12 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Wherry hull in GRP
    I didn't have any look finding one Martin was going to build one myself at 1/12 . I managed to find some interesting reading on these boats and I'm waiting for a book to arrive from the Norfolk wherry museum. I purchased copy's of
    model boats mag
    s January 1985 which has the build article of the wherry and October 1985 which has a article on upgrades and advice on the original build. I found the book "wherries and waterways" by Robert malster a interesting read. Ron
    12 months ago by kmbcsecretary
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Beachbaby
    This was another own build with idea based on a 1960's Straight Runner called Beachcomber. My rebuild and plans were upgraded to modern materials like Depron Foam for the hull, Lite ply for the cabin, Brushless power and a traditional planked deck. it turned out beautiful and quite a few plan copies have been sold. Full build article was published in July issue of
    model boats mag
    . (Motor: Black Turnigy 2830 b/l) (ESC: Sea Commander 30 Amp) (10/10)
    1 year ago by ronrees
    Forum
    Unknown
    If I'm not mistaken it looks like the flying kestral steam tug that if I remember correctly it was a free plan in
    model boats mag
    azine
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Norfolk wherry plans wanted
    I have since found out that there was an article in a back issue of
    model boats mag
    azine does anyone know what issue it was please Thanks in advance
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    Norfolk wherry plans wanted
    Does anyone have the plans from
    model boats mag
    azine that they no longer need cash waiting Checking before I order the plans online
    1 year ago by kmbcsecretary
    Response
    Cabin roof mechanism
    I still have a 34" Raf crash tender still unbuilt that I bought back in 1994 when they released a run of 50 on the 50th anniversary of the model in the
    model boats mag
    azine. I also have a Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works sitting in my shed. One day I will get around to building them Along with restoring my Sea Hornet, Sea Commander, Sea Queen and my Huntsman along with several other boats, including an MFA Spearfish and a Stratos interceptor, Hydrofibre Pipedream both of which were the same company just that they had a change of name. Along with at least 3 others. I will do them sometime.
    1 year ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    Hi MB, Sorry for late response, I've been occupied with varnishing and painting of my Sea Scout renovation. The Turnigy i6 and Flysky FS-6 are hardware identical but have slightly different software, not critical I understand. I have the German branded version of the Turnigy i6, called here HT-6. Attached is the excellent German / English User / Programming manual without the Chenglish gobbledygook! Flysky Chenglish manual also attached for comparison. Only mistake I found in the manual is re Binding (see pic); they mention Binding button on the RX when it is on the TX at bottom left item 13 in the attached pic of my German branded Reely version. BTW; iA6 is the RX type number. The TX is TGY-I6 or FS-6 for Flysky. Pics 4 & 5 show my Reely HT-6 and Turnigy TGY-I6 versions. identical except for labelling, same goes for the Flysky - see manual. Re: Servos: I have tested my TX and an iA-6 RX with all sorts of servos; Sanwa, Futaba, Hitec amongst others some going back 30 years and they all work fine. I currently have an iA-6 RX and ancient Hitec standard rudder servo in my Sea Scout and it works just fine. Re: controlling the ESC; it just plugs into the RX like a servo. Usually channel 1 or 3 depending on whether you want throttle on the right or left stick respectively. Re: 3D printed stuff 'brittle or not'; depends on what type of filament they use for the print so can't really say. Up to now have not had problems. What I have noticed with some 3D plastic and resin items is surface defects, pits etc, which need some treatment before fitting. Resin also tends to be more brittle than 3D plastic prints. Resin don't bend well and don't like knocks! As I discovered with the resin gun barrels on my Graf Spee 😑 Will be replaced shortly with turned brass or Alu! Re: LiPos; attached is a file from
    model boats mag
    of Hints and Tips for using LiPos. it also explains the tech jargon surrounding brushless motors, i.e. interpreting model numbers and parametersπŸ˜‰ All for now, cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Thames sailing barge Capricorn
    Hi , thames sailing barge model pages> http://barge.homeunix.org/index.php/home some discussion about Thames sailing barges you can find here >http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=95328 http://barge.homeunix.org/index.php/barge-building/15-build-reports/34-building-a-model-1970-onwards-a-relatively-new-members-reminiscences-and-ideas < by R.Chesney Magazines. Model boats 2007 nr 7 tsb Celia Jane model tuning Model Boats 2013-11 tsb finless little models Marine Modelling international 2014 nr 7-9 tsb Veronica Marine Modelling international 2016 nr07 tsb Westmoreland
    1 year ago by tomarack
    Forum
    Aero kits 34” Sea Commander and
    model boats mag
    June 2012
    Boatshed, it would be great if you do have it. Scanned eBay again after Allen’s post and no joy. Email is Chris.harding4@hotmail.co.uk if you do have it. Thanks.
    1 year ago by Penfold63
    Forum
    Aero kits 34” Sea Commander and
    model boats mag
    June 2012
    Evening all. I’m building the Sea Commander and note that
    model boats mag
    azine had an article in June 2012 reviewing the kit and build. Anyone have a copy of the article (page 10 onwards) they could scan and email to me. Tried MagsUK and others but can’t find anyone who has a back copy available. Thanks in advance!
    1 year ago by Penfold63
    Forum
    Aero kits 34” Sea Commander and
    model boats mag
    June 2012
    Hi, I don't know if I have a copy of that one. I have loads of old
    model boats mag
    s. I will check out tomorrow and if I have I will get it scanned for you. But not too sure if I do have that one.
    1 year ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    Aero kits 34” Sea Commander and
    model boats mag
    June 2012
    Damn, turns out it’s the August 2012 mag, poorly described by seller. The search continues then.....
    1 year ago by Penfold63
    Forum
    Clyde puffer
    Alan ,have decided after i finish the paddle tug would try a puffer i have enlarged the plans by 50% to give a hull around 3ft (900mm)if you pm me with your address i will post the plans from
    model boats mag
    to you .Cheers Marky
    1 year ago by marky
    Forum
    Aero kits 34” Sea Commander and
    model boats mag
    June 2012
    Thanks Allen, I’ll check that out now.
    1 year ago by Penfold63
    Forum
    Clyde puffer
    there were free plans with the December
    model boats mag
    azine .Cheers Marky
    1 year ago by marky
    Forum
    Aero kits 34” Sea Commander and
    model boats mag
    June 2012
    Hi Penfold, There is a copy on Ebay now Β£2. Here's the link https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Model-Boats-Magazine-June-2012-9160g/1342376261. Allen
    1 year ago by AllenA
    Forum
    model boats mag
    azine October November 1986
    Hi David, many thanks for your message. I am on holiday in Australia at the movement, but when I get home 1st feb, I’ll be in touch. Kind regards simon
    1 year ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    model boats mag
    azine October November 1986
    Does anyone have a copy of the October and November 1986
    model boats mag
    azine that contained the build article on the Tyne Class lifeboat. I have purchased the plans and Hull from Sarik and have found a wonderful build article on this model. Thinking that this will test my scratch building skills, I would love to add this class Lifeboat to go along side my Solent. Photocopies of the build articles would be perfect, happy to meet all costs if reasonable. Thank you in advance.
    1 year ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    model boats mag
    azine October November 1986
    hi skydive, did you get the build article from model boats of the tyne. I have all the copys from the magazine as I built it plank on frame, some years ago. let me no if I can help david
    1 year ago by jtdavid
    Forum
    new model of boat
    Hi Welcome to the site. I suggest you buy a copy of the
    model boats mag
    azine to see what might appeal. You can then contact one of the advertisers to get more details. If you need a ready built model you can usually find one on e-bay or in a local auction. There are pitfalls and if you can find a local friendly Model Shop or Club they will guide you in the right direction. Good hunting
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    model boats mag
    azine October November 1986
    Thanks Doug, I have a print subscription, so may not be able to access, will try though. if that fails, if anyone has the ability to download and print those 2 articles I would be most greatful
    1 year ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    model boats mag
    azine October November 1986
    Hallo Sy, without a subscription number I'm afraid you won't get access πŸ€” "The online archive of
    model boats mag
    azine is available exclusively to Print + Digital and Digital subscribers and lets you: Turn the pages of your favourite magazine online Access back issues Search for favourite articles Access the latest issue as soon as it is published" Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    model boats mag
    azine October November 1986
    Many thanks mark, will give it a try! Kind regards Sy
    1 year ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    model boats mag
    azine October November 1986
    Skydiver, go on the model boat magazine website, they have the archive to call on. Mark
    1 year ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Looking for an Aerokits Solent lifeboat
    Built ones are going for about Β£100 as in the post above, an unbuilt kit about the same price but yours may have some bits missing so, say about Β£75. As Dave M said the resto in
    model boats mag
    will drive up the price as people see how to do it. Hope this helps Mark
    1 year ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Motor problem
    I like Blunt, the guy a Howes model shop, who was into boats himself retired and only worked there a couple of mornings a week, also said to remove the complete shaft and replace it with a metric one much the same as yourself, it is just the thought of what damage I may do to the boat as I know I fixed it in really well, he also said to get a 4mm prop-shaft and to see if the shaft would fit into the existing tube, so I am going to take both your advice and at this time go for a 4mm but try the shaft first, however I do not think pulling it out with mole grips will work on this occasion. Watch this space😑 Thanks
    2 years ago by RichardSReade
    Forum
    tug build
    theres a build log in
    model boats mag
    azine if you search Ayton cross
    model boats mag
    azine the article comes up a.Cheers Marky
    2 years ago by marky
    Response
    Question- Prop rotatio direction?
    Hi Dave, I’ve gone for the single electronize esc simply because the reviewer who did a refurb in septembers
    model boats mag
    and he seem to find it fine? I’ve modified the rudders in the hope that she will turn ok. if after testing I find it does have difficulty turning, I shall look at swapping the current esc for a pair. Thank you for your comments, kind regards sy
    2 years ago by Skydive130
    Media
    Bob the Duck
    Built after a challenge from the late Bob Hutton, and featured in this Nov 2017's
    model boats mag
    azine... 'from an idea to the water' See the videos on YouTube, just search Bob the Duck
    2 years ago by EricMB
    Forum
    Robbe Smaragd
    Hi Neil, Brian Roberts did a makeover article for the 'Emerald' in
    model boats mag
    a year or so ago which might help you - http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/smaragd-makeover/14026 Afraid the only docs (pdfs) I have are in the original GermanπŸ€” Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    FLYSKY FS-I6S TRANSMITTER
    I have just ordered one to raffle for my club. We have similar FlySky sets in the club and they are suitable for all model boats. The set up is straight forward and all the controls you need such as end point and throw are available and as you say touch screen. You can also mix two channels to work off one stick (mainsail plus fore sail). No protruding aerial to get damaged and two buttons to switch on or off. There are reviews on U-tube and one did complain about the shape not allowing the set to stand on its base. This is possibly a benefit as there is no chance of it being knocked over. There is also an add on to allow a mobile phone or tablet to be attached above the Tx. There is two way comms that allows monitoring of the rx battery so I am guessing more comms can be added to work with the phone/tablet screen. I'll know more when I get my hands on the kit and will then post more details. The earlier versions need a software update so check that yours has been updated if you are not computer savvy. Spare receivers are also cheap to buy.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    TAMIYA. King George V.
    Hi Colin, see what you mean!πŸ€” I have a digital subscription to Model Boats so I can read it onlineπŸ˜‰ Have 'extracted' the KGV &PoW article as pdf file. πŸ˜‰ Unfortunately the stupid HTML reader only lets you 'print' two pages at a time so I ended up with 5 files! PM me your email and I will send them to you. This site has no pdf file handlerπŸ€”πŸ˜‘ In the meantime here's an article from the same guy describing the RC conversion of KM Bismarck, at 1:700 !! 😲 it's from the Forum. http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/plastic-magic-km-bismarck/16368 Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    TAMIYA. King George V.
    Hi Colin, in
    model boats mag
    May 2017 there is an article from Tony Dalton on converting both the KGV and Prince of Wales from Tamiya. Just what we both need! Tony has done many of these conversions and written them all up in Model Boats. if you register with the forum (free) you can read online and print pages. Or buy a back issue. Don't worry about the most filigree bits, leave 'em off until the boat works on the water. Then you can consider if they are worth fitting, or making more robust; e.g thin mast bits from brass wire instead of the plastic. have fun anyway. Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    TAMIYA. King George V.
    Hi Colin, what scale is it? If you Google 'Plastic Magic' you should get lots of example of this from 350 / 400 scale carriers and battleships down to 72 scale Vosper MTB, KM S100 / E-Boat etc. There are also several Plastic magic articles in
    model boats mag
    azine. The general principles are always the same: lightweight miniaturised electronics incl. servos! Do a max payload test on the bare hull as the very first thing. Weigh the major superstructure assemblies and decks and subtract from max payload: that's what's left for electronics and battery! The kit props are generally useless, no pitch, so make your own out of tinplate or 0.5mm brass. can be a little oversize, no one will knowπŸ˜‰ Prop shafts and tubes: 2mm OD / 1mm ID brass tube with 1mm silver steel or piano wire shafts. Couplings from shrink sleeve. will dig out some motor types and sources tomorrow, there are also some given in the
    model boats mag
    articles. That's where I found the Micron Radio tip😊 Can heartily recommend Micron radio for the smallest combination RX and ESC on one tiny board that I've ever seen! Talk to Andy Rutter, he offers excellent advice and will fit tiny connectors and pre-program the RX board to match what you want to do. He also has very very tiny servos which are ideal.πŸ‘ http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/ Look under RC components - 'Deltang Ultra micro'. you ain't gonna get no teeny weenier! I went weak today 😲 and ordered a 350 scale Prince of Wales, to match my 350 scale Bismarck, Hood and Ark Royal. Battle of Denmark Straight here we come! Cost a tad more than 25 pence though πŸ€” Good luck Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    huntsman plan
    model boats mag
    azine January 2016 ncluded a free plan of a Huntsman 31 complete with photos and a step by step build guide. Unfortunately the model is 24". I also wanted a bigger model so I redrew the plan double size. it wasn't too difficult and only took a couple of evenings with a some lining paper from B&Q and a calculator and voila! At the moment I am planking the roof of the cabins and trying to decide between a brushless motor and an old Weston rare earth brushed motor I used to use for fast electrics. The article in MB also ran into February 2016 where all the fiddly finishing bits were described, also with many photos. I expect one can obtain back issues from their web site. Anyone interested in Huntsmen should get these two issues for the detail alone.
    2 years ago by Black Dog Jack
    Blog
    Ship's Boats
    Building a model ship often means actually building several models because most ships have boats. Constellation had six. My method for building boats is nearly the same as for building larger hulls and real boats - planks over forms. I have a 1:12th scale drawing of Constellation's boats in particular, from the National Archives. They not only printed me a paper copy, but gave me a .tif image which I could easily re-scale to 1:36. I reproduced the lines as forms extended to a baseline so the boat could be built upside down. I drew each boat's patterns and arranged each to fit on a sheet of copy paper. I printed this on full sheet label paper so I can rough cut them, stick them on the form material, and then cut the forms. I had a few sheets of 1/8" balsa that I cut the forms from. A pine plank was used for the building-board, and marked where each station would go, then the forms were glued on making sure each was 90Β° to the base and square to the center-line. A note on the build-board, it doesn't have to be as wide as the boat, and should, in fact, be narrower. Then you can access inside the sheer and planking, and later, removing the boat from the forms will be much easier. A small plank of 3/4" stock will let you get rubber bands completely around the model, and it will also fit in a vice which is very convenient. The edges of the forms are shaped so the planks will lie flat on the surface, and not teeter on the edges. Using balsa makes this easy work, though you have to be careful not to snap them off the build board. I sanded them nearly to shape before mounting them on the build board, then fine tuned them with a plank laid on the forms as a guide. The first boat I started with was the ship's 1st cutter, which is a lap-strake, or clinker-built boat. (Only the launch is carvel planked) it's frames are 1/16" thick bass strips 3/32" wide. Each frame is dipped in ammonia and bent over it's form. I put a dab of glue at the ends that would eventually be cut off to hold it to the form, but for the frames on the wine-glass and hollow forms at the ends I used rubber bands to pull them into shape. Once the ammonia dries, they will hold this shape. Part of the reasoning behind using balsa for the forms is if anything gets glued that shouldn't, it's the form and not the model that will give-way. So far, the forms used on both boats came through the process in usable condition, which is encouraging as I need to make two quarter boats just alike and will need to reuse the forms then. The stem, stern-post, and keel are 1/16" bass, assembled together while flat. First the top corners of the keel were planed off to make a sort of rabbet. The transom is also bass as it stays in the boat. The transom is cut taller to reach the build-board, and partially cut at what will be it's top to make it easier when it's time to detach the boat. it's glued to the stern post and the build-board, the keel is glued to each frame, and the stem is glued to the build-board. This pretty much forms the rigid skeleton of the boat. There's two ways to represent lapstrake planking on so small a model. One way is to sand each plank so it's half as thick at it's top edge as its bottom edge. The planks are butted on the boat, carvel style, thick against thin, giving the impression of overlapped planks. I chose to actually overlap the planks because the inside of the boat is open to view, and it's actually easier when dealing with wood only 1/32" thick. Since each plank of a lapstrake boat overlaps the one below it, each plank has to be spieled, or shaped to fit, and the boat must be planked from the keel to the sheer. I divide the length of the widest frame from the keel to the sheer into the number of planks I want, then divide the lengths of the stem and the stern by this number. You'll find the planks will get narrow forward, and flare wider back aft. You may have to experiment a bit with the number of planks to maintain at least 2 scale inches forward and not more than 5 scale inches aft, or the planking will look nonsensical and out-of-scale. I planked the cutter in 1/32" thick bass. The first planks are the garboards, next to the keel. For the next plank I placed a strip of card along side and used a piece of plank against the edge of the wood plank to mark the card. The marks are actually the bottom edge of the plank. Each plank is shaped on it's bottom edge to the plank before, and it's top edge is straight. Then I dip it in ammonia and clamp it in place, where the "clamps" are rubber bands, blocks of wood, pins, clothes pins, whatever works. Again, a narrow build-board allows the rubber bands to pull in as you reach the sheer rather than pulling them away from the boat. Once your brain gets wrapped around spieling, the planking will move along. But don't try to do too much too fast or you'll just get frustrated and ruin everything. Take lots of breaks. The planks need to be sanded thinner at their ends, almost to nothing, depending how much of a rabet was cut into the stem. At the stern they run right off the transom and are cut flush. You can notch the transom into steps for each plank to fit into, of fill the little gaps where they overlap with putty later. Since they're getting painted, I used putty. When the planking is done up to the sheer, it's best to add rub rails and strakes while the boat's still on the forms. I then finished the cut in the transom, cut off the stem near the build-board, and nipped off each frame where it was glued to the form. Then carefully lifted the boat off the forms. Some form may have come off with it, and some spots may need to be reglued. I installed frames in between each of the ones the boat was built on, putting a frame about every scale foot. Seat clamps, floor boards, seats, oar notches, lifting eyes, mast steps, etc, are all added bit-by-bit, before you know it, you've got another model boat. I'll get into the launch next.
    2 years ago by Jerry Todd
    Forum
    Scale Sailing Association
    The above was a big thing once. over 600 members! A nice magazine, a stand at the ME Exhibition. Then the guy who started it died and it seems the organisation with him. How can that be. 600 members? that's a lot to go quiet because one bloke dies ain't it? So, is anyone interested in resurrecting the Association? Scale sail is a pretty particular kind of boating, but by far the most satisfying. And that's from a very partial, biased person! If you would be interested in restarting the Scale Sailing Association, please let me know on here or the
    model boats mag
    . forum and we'll see what can be done. Of course, if all 600 are now dead too, we're Foobarred! Cheers, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Blog
    As of Summer 2017...
    After the sail, I added some hardware to the spars, namely jackstays. I also ordered some aircraft plywood and used it to make new winch drums. These are sized to my current plan of only bracing the tops'l yards. Hopefully, this is the last set I'll have to make. Seeing into the dark interior of the hull can be a pain, more so the brighter it is outside. Mark got some red LEDs to light up the dash of his old pick-up (ute for my Assie friends) and gave me a left-over section. it requires a 12 volt supply (I'm running 6) and red doesn't really help in daylight, but I like the idea. if I can find a white LED strip that'll run on 6 volts, this will definitely get put in. The stern also had folding bulwarks like the bow, but that wrapped all the way around. On the real ship these were replace with a fixed bulwark except for a couple of panels that allowed access to the stern boat. By the time the ship came to Baltimore in 1955, these too were gone, with all their hardware. Again, I'm not making them functional, and decided to built these on the model rather than as separate pieces like on the bow. The hinges are represented inboard by card stock and brass eyes. The barrel portion of the hinges outboard at the bottom of each panel will be a little section of 1/16" wood dowel. The forward bulwarks were epoxied in place and the support rods were installed all around. The tops are raw because they all get a bright cap rail (varnished natural wood) and I'll put that on when it won't get messed up with paint or glue. A friend sent me a box of stuff, among which was a nive little cat face perfect for my catheads. Only having one, I was going to cast a pair in resin. But I'm out of casting resin and epoxy glue didn't set up in a way I liked, so we'll come back to that. The tops'l yards on the ship are hinged iron bands, line with wood staves. I wanted to replicate that functionality not only because that's what the ship has, but because it would allow me to take them off the mast without unrigging half the ship. I cut some heavy copper I use for everything and bent it into two half circles; soldiered brass tubing to the ends, and sawed out the notches with a jewelers saw. if only it had been that easy. Soldiering here tended to un-soldier there, cold soldier joints wouldn't hold. I gave up in frustration. I changed the gun carriages based on some research I did, but I'll post separate entries dealing with them and the ship's boats. I went looking for information on soldiering little things, and took another whack at the parrels. This time it worked out much better. I reused the copper band and brass tubing for the main and made the fore the same way. I still have to make the mizzen tops'l yard parrel, but my soldiering has gotten much much better. Last May ('17) I took the boat to the Baltimore Port Expo for National Maritime Day again, surrounded by members of our newly formed White Rocks Model Boat Club. I didn't manage to get her controls set-up in time, so she didn't go in the pool, but sat on her cart and looked pretty. I put her courses and trys'ls on her for this. The trys'ls won't be used when she sails, but can be set for static displays. The courses will get used, but I'll be able to buntl them up as shown to reduce sail. Also to reduce sail, the t'gallants and royals will be easily removable, or replaceable, as the case may be, depending on what wind there is. That pretty much brings us up to date as of July 2017. I'll post something about the boats and guns in a bit, as well as any other progress that's made. There's far more detail, images, and notes at my website on this, and the other models I'm working on at: http://todd.mainecav.org/model/ There's a few items I skimmed, or skipped over, like her signal flags, that are covered in detail there; like the day she was almost dismasted by the garage door.
    2 years ago by Jerry Todd
    Forum
    Help required please.
    I'm wondering if anyone has built a model of the Bering motor yacht "Mila"? Drawing MM2068 from my hobby store. There was a short article about it in
    model boats mag
    Dec 2011. This will be my next project and will be a plank on frame, but I'm not in a hurry just yet to get it completed. Any help or advice gratefully recieved. Thanks for reading.
    2 years ago by chippy
    Forum
    ''Vanity'' leaves the building board
    Ah, my replacement copies of Plank-on-Frame Models have arrived. indistinguishable from the copies I lent and never got back. I simply cannot be without these books. I've had them since I was wee loddy in Devon, when my love of quality model boats began. I was a member of the Thames Ship Lovers and Ship Model Society and got my first ever proper commission through them. Where are they now? They were one of the main London based clubs at one point, meeting in a Pub in the West End on a Tuesday night. I believe the magazine Model Shipwright came about through those meetings. Now, even that magnificent organ has gone. What is it about model boaters? No TSLSMS, no Scale Sail, no Model Shipwright. And no doubt Maritime Models has gone in Greenwich and Model Shipwrights in Putney. For a maritime nation all this is a disgrace. Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Using old motors
    Hi Dave, many thanks for your answer. I wanted a scale speed of 25-40mh, so much slower than the real speed of that figure. As long as they just about plane I'll be happy. I've been trying to get a Bob's board for ages. My old friend has a few in his loft. He used to make all the display models, aircraft and boats, for Bob's models. My R/C gear at it's earliest is Mini Hex from 1971 or Digimac. I can't get the REP single channel I once had, but which was stolen. I should say that my old Crash Tender (which I really should finish some time 53 years later!) always ran a treat with it's Supermarine Special, using said REP sytem. The Basset-Lowke motor is a permanent magnet type so will probably be OK with an ESC, but I have no idea what sort to use as I don't understand them. All I read seems to suggest that they are either expensive or unreliable. And they need "programming", which totally puts me off! I have no model boat clubs near here, so would just use the local canalised river which has both sides accessible and is rarely used by full sized boats. But at least I don't have to worry about other R/C users. Looks like the world is much the same for old motors after all. Cheers, Martin
    2 years ago by Westquay


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