Blog

Proboat Sonicwake

Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . 😁😋 Boaty.

5 years ago by boaty

Forum

Aldi excellent service

I thought a minidrill had gone west on me, but then found the motor was OK, so , with items from a discarded fax machine I made a small mill/drill attachment for the vertical slide of my modelmakers' lathe. it had made an awful lot of wheels since! I use it to mill out spokes and drill holes on things like BRM and Dunlop wheels and it did all the series of British Touring Cars models I made for the teams back in the Cavalier/Mondeo days, when you could tell what they were and there were no stinking grunty oil burners. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

34'' RAF Crash Tender Windows

Really, chaps, make them! it's piss easy. Come on, why should everything be available off the shelf for you? A sheet of 60 thou. Plastikard, a piercing saw (which, as modelmakers you should have anyway) and a few evenings or a weekend of free time. Get the frame how you like it and then scribe round the inside onto a piece of thin Perspex and cut that with the same piercing saw, cleaning up with Swiss files. The cheap Lidl's diamond dust ones are very good for plastics as they don't tend to leave cut marks. Colin, are you sure there's a crash tender restored? As there were only 2 built I find that very unlikely. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

PS Waverley

real gentleman who started selling timbers for modelmakers, but had to stop that as he got a sensitivity to the dust of woods, but he also had a range of amazingly good stuff for amazingly low prices, including various stanchions. I bought all the remaining portholes from him because I hate glazing portholes! I have tiny working compasses, rigging scissors, tiny woodscrews, rigging cord, bottle screws, all sorts from him and all cost me very little. Alas, health issues have caused him to cease trading and he has been flogging of his stock on ebay. A great loss. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

USGC Island class fg hull.

I wish to build a USCG Island class cutter. I have a full set of plans but I am not too brilliant at making hulls from scratch. I have found a possible source, MTBHulls of Gibralta, of getting a fibre glass hull at 1/48 scale but they need an order of 4 to produce one. They produce many different hulls but not this one, hence the requirement for 4 to make it viable to make a new hull. So I am looking for 3 other who may be interested in buying one of these hulls at approx. £55 each plus any cost for me to post them on or deliver. The Island class cutter is 110 feet long, which would make a model just over 2 foot long, and based on a Vosper Thornycroft design but built in the States. I believe there were about 80 built of which 35 remain in service. There are many pictures of them on the internet which is where I got the plans from but I am happy to copy the plans if anyone is interested.

6 years ago by epmbcmember

Forum

Darby One Design hydro...

Very true, there isint a lot of interest in speedboats today. I remember some great ones when I was a child in the late 1950s and early 60s. I once saw an Albatross on a lake in Scarborough that was towing a water skier in 1959. I believe that is was made of aluminium instead of wood but it did have an inboard engine. . Another one I remember was the Dowty Turbocraft powered by a water jet driven by an inboard petrol engine . This was on the Southport Marine lake in 1961 and attracted a lot of spectators. it is up to us as to keep the memories alive by what we build and sail. Boaty😎

6 years ago by boaty

Blog

Boaty P.T 109

Three years ago I built an Italeri Kit of P.T. 109 and fitted it with a 480 motor and ran it off a 7.4 Li Po. I left the aft cabin detachable in order to change battery etc and the performance was very good with a speed of 8 knots on full power. Though in general, the boat was more suited to calmer conditions, it look so realistic on the water. Due to it being a plastic kit, I felt a bit guilty having built a model close to show standards without the time and effort of other who had worked so hard with other materials to achieve the same outcome. I would like to hear from other boat enthusiasts who had completed similar projects especially around power units and how they overcame difficulties in converting what is basically a static model into a working one. Regards Boaty 😊

9 years ago by boaty

Forum

Tony O

No Doug, you have quite the wrong idea about me. I would love to get a club going and have done all I could to do so including meeting the one only geezer who offered to have a cuppa in the local caff. We parted with him saying he'd tell those members of a distant club he went to that had water problems and would call me. Guess what? You know the rest. THAT's why my attitude is **** '**. I've had it constantly from model boaters. Little enclaves of mates who will NOT countenance new members (model railways clubs too as it happens, more old farts). What else should I say faced with that attitude. No, I am NOT a tolerant or patient man, that's for sure. Patience is just an excuse for wasting time. I have no idea what apps are available for 'phone control. I don't even have one. Whilst my kids have made an excellent job generally of raising my Grandchildren, they don't seem to know either what to do about the latest fad for Playstation and 'phone. But one things for sure, none of them show the slightest interest in making or doing anything and are part of the first generation to be absolutely bloody useless. I just hope the three of my 5 grandchildren who have common sense will do something with that, but I know damned well it won't be keeping modelmaking going or any other endeavour that requires real skill and application. These matters are of concern in all the hobbies I have any interest in. Old boats (yes Woodies and why not?), old aircraft, old bikes and old cars. As long as WE live, eh? Well that ain't gonna be that much longer in any kind of fit state to go the pond on a regular basis with heavy models. So actually we WILL be witnessing the death of all those groups I mention above and many more. From the care home windows, unless we're lucky enough to cop our clogs before that living death happens. When you hear "Can't be arsed" from the mouths of, effectively, babes, you know the craft world is in trouble. And I mean craft, not gluing bits of cut card together with Prit sticks under the banner of that foul word "crafting". I really couldn't give a **** if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. in another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff. And as far as I can see they don't. My comments about the future are based on my observations and chats with established long term members of those hobbies who all agree the end really is nigh. All those balding, grey haired, pot bellied, probably bearded old geezers standing around with stoops from their long knackered backs, all wondering whether this time next year they'll still have their Honda Jazz or a mobility scooter. If that's how it's all going, so be it. As you say we won't be here to witness the real death. And the more exciting aspects of the model hobby? There was a programme on tonight about modelmakers flying re-runs of Battle of Britain air battles with similar sized models, laser guns, damage smoke, etc. 2 youngish blokes, the rest, including the German contingent, older guys. Oh and a Tranny and I don't mean a transmitter! in 10 years time that programme will not be makeable. BTW the Tranny was by far the best pilot. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

54'' long Cervia tug.

See my boat harbour basically it was bought from pontins festival 40 years ago the hull was made by a model maker. I have photos of his boat. He then produced hulls for sale from the mold and my Dad bought one he spent 9 years making a sealion 4 cylinder petrol engine and it was meant to be petrol electric hybrid generator. The start of the deck work was started by my Dad but was left unfinished for all this time. I have photos of the origional from slide photos my Dad took when I was 4 or 5.

6 years ago by Novagsi0

Forum

Billing Boats St Canute Update

Hello everyone, it’s been a while since l made a post about my ongoing model St Canute, mainly due to the heatwave we’ve just been through, however l have just completed laying the decking strips, which l have to admit was going well until the last few strips to the edge, boy oh boy did l struggle. I jumped the instructions as they do say to plank the hull first. At times l just sat there looking at the decking trying to get a reasonable edge and curve. I have attached some photos which some of you professional will spot the errors, but it’s the best l can do so long am pretty pleased with the outcome. I have a question, should l now apply some sanding sealer to the deck strips? l am just a bit worried not to sand the deck strips too much. Any advice would be very much appreciated. I guess now l must start with the hull planking which l am apprehensive about, but hey ho it has to been done. Thanks everyone l will keep you updated from time to time, if anyone out there is also building this Billing Boat st Canute l would love to hear from you. Cheers everyone, Richard.

6 years ago by Richard7

Event

St.Albans Model Show

This is the annual exhibition by the St.Albans & District Model Engineering Society. It gets bigger and better every year and it's a great family day out with lots to see and do for children (and grown ups too !) Lots of local clubs exhibiting too so there's a great variety of all types of models for serious to see. We hope to see you there 😁

6 years ago by robbob

Forum

Windows, stoopid question.

Myford liquidated? Oh, dear God, is nothing sacred? I had an old ML7, but it was driven by a linked leather belt and shook so much I couldn't steady it. Also the Burnerd chuck was less than accurate and at the time I was looking for something to turn tiny parts so I swapped it for my current modelmakers lathe, which I've had for 30 years without a moment's trouble. Ironically, I have bought decent key worked 3 jaw and 4 jaw independent chucks for it from RGD. made in india, they are superb quality and a very decent price. Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

krick romarin ''ex robbe''

The Robbe factory was sold off probably with most of the moulds and equipment when the company got into difficulties. There are some kits available and Cornwall Model Boats stock the available range. I would check the Krick site for their postal charges to the UK. The demise of Robbe and Graupner was a big set back for universally and its a pity many of the resources were lost before a rescue was possible. I agree with Doug E-Bay does have them listed occasionally and I have seen them at Model Boat Shows bring and buy sales. CADMA is possibly the next show (2nd - 3rd Jun), the Mutual Model Boat club appears to have moved to September not forgetting The Model Boat Convention on 25th - 26th August.

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Another model shop to close.

just saw andyg009 mentioned Marionville models in Edinburgh ,Andy dont know if your old enough to remember central wood crafts 50+years ago in Duke street Leith it was run by two wee old women i think i spent half my childhood and all my pocket money in that shop ,it was a modelmakers emporium .

6 years ago by marky

Forum

DrillingIt

We as try to do the best we can with what we've got. But sometimes feeling your way round a hand build is far more rewarding. I have a number of machines available in my workshop, but as most of my models are over 50 years old it is usually restoration work that I need to do, so hand worked parts are what I need to make. My machines are usually used for making brass and other metal items. I usually paint by hand, but occasionally use a spray gun or airbrush. But find hand finishing gives the most satisfaction. Cheers Colin.

7 years ago by Colin H

Forum

3d printing

If you don't have access to a 3D printer, it might be worth your while checking whether their is a local Maker space you can join. They will almost certainly have a 3D printer you can borrow and are likely to also have laser cutting, metal turning and milling, and a host of other facilities normally outside the pocket of the average modeller. We are just starting up our Maker space in Guernsey but to find out if you have one near you, check www.nesta.org.uk/uk-makerspace-data.

7 years ago by Delboy

Response

CERVIA ''TUG'' 54'' (4.5 foot long)

Thanks for the info upon finding the plans in a tube, I came across some old colour slides of the finished model at Pontin's festival. This was me aged 5 so some 40 years ago and I guess the hull in the background became ours. Undecided if it will even fit in the car alone being able to get it in the water if I finish it after the huntsman.

7 years ago by Novagsi0

Blog

CERVIA ''TUG'' 54'' (4.5 foot long)

Another boat my Dad started. A large fibre glass hull of the tug 'Cervia'. I would be interested if anyone has any information about the hull producer. I know it was purchased from Pontins festival, Brean Sands from back in the day more than 35 years ago. It was to be petrol/ electric and he spend 9 years making a 4 cylinder 4 stroke 'Sealion' engine from scratch to power it, along with some windscreen motors from a Land rover. I've attached some pictures and work could continue if I find the will, after the huntsman is complete.

7 years ago by Novagsi0

Forum

waterline models

have a small collection of waterline models for sale these are approx 12" to 16" in length some have display cases they range from coasters to colliers cargo and some warships from the 50s and 60s if of interest please contact me for further details also have a number of laminated a3 size plans from the same era which would be ideal for waterline

7 years ago by kenbestford

Forum

Precedent 1/32 scale Perkasa Kit.

Hi Wingcoax. Sorry...not me. I am a keen DIY'er, as all probably are, but I have no involvement in any DIY forums. My tag line is what's called a 'syntactic ambiguity' and it's always amused me so this other person probably has a similar sense of humour, or he is Groucho Marx (unlikely) 😋 Robbob.

7 years ago by robbob

Response

Secure the hatches and raise the flags !

Hi Colin. Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your good choice of model 👍. I bought all of the brass pins I used from a UK based eBay seller http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-PANEL-PINS-15mm-20mm-25mm-30mm-40mm-CHOOSE-QTY-FREE-P-P-/161327078311?var=&hash=item258fd7dba7 I can't imagine that something similar would not be available in Oz, try a good joinery or cabinet makers supply outlet. I mostly used the 15mm size and used, quite surprisingly, a total of around 500 😱. These pins have a tapered head rather than a flat one so that they can be punched flush, or just below the surface of the wood very easily. This is important when pinning the side and bottom skins so that the pin hole can be filled and sanded to give a very smooth surface for finishing. Also, when pinning the thin wood strips always pre-drill the wood to stop the wood from splitting. I'm not sure if CMB supply this type but Javro, who replied earlier, may be able to confirm this. Good luck with the build and please do think about posting a build blog on this site and ask as many questions as you need to. As I discovered, the help and advice you will get will be invaluable. Rob.

7 years ago by robbob

Response

Target Renovation Part 2

Hi Doug I know you may have sourced some but I find Noggin End a good supplier of metals to and all to full spec, not offcuts. https://www.nogginend.com/ Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Scale Sailing Association

I am reminded of the response by my boss when the client asked for his modelled map of Cardiff to light up the bus routes...."I make models, sir, not bloody table lamps". He utterly refused to make anything noisy or lit up. The noise makers I've heard are rubbish, the smoke generators whispy little things and lights, well who runs at night. As for re-enacters of any type, at any time....saddos in extremis. To re-enact the horrors of war is, I believe, a bloody insult to those poor sods who were actually there. My Dad said he had, on the whole, a "good" War, but he didn't want models of rocket firing Hurricanes hanging around when he came home. "I hope you never have to watch a man die in his seat after he limped a kite back home safely", was one thing he did say. Maybe that stayed with me, but I have never yet made a military model by choice, nor would I. I once made a small tank, the Alvis reconnaissance type, but I hated every minute I was at the army camp measuring it. Oddly it was one of my best models. if the guy wanted it to go, "Bang!", I'd have shoved it up his fat ex-artillery officer's derriere! BTW, your 3/32" drills just made the express hot air balloon from the village green, which will connect with the Stadt donkey in a few days time. I have all sorts of goodies arriving, I hope. Plank-on-Frame-Models, Vols 1&2, because my originals have gone missing thanks to moving house too often, brass wires, because the miserable old bag in the local toyshop where they carry odd ends of K&S Metal Centre annoyed me so I bought from the internet for a fraction of the price and a mini-drill stand so I might make a small 'ole go where I want it to. Oh and today, finally, that Eberhard Weber CD came from Germany, but was delivered in a Royal Mail envelope! Trouble is we're near the end of the postie's round so we're lucky to see owt till 12-30ish. And having left my lower back somewhere in the front garden I am off outside to glue the last planks in my model of "Vanity". Cheers, Martin

7 years ago by Westquay

Forum

Where do yachties go?

Having got very little on my particular interest off the 'Net and having threatened to remove my Classic Model Yacht Page from Facebook, I have to ask "where do yachties go?". I thought model sailing was more popular than it seems to be. I don't mean the boring and ugly Isle of Man boats (IoM), but the older, more beautiful classes or info on the older real classes of yachts for that matter. I was amazed to have my suggestion of a sailing section on the "other" forum accepted, but it's not exactly busy, yet RC Groups, Stateside has not only a sailboats section, but a scale sailboats section! I realise this is still essentially the old fire boat forum with extras, so am not suggesting a sailing section here, but..... The Scale Sailing Association has died with one member! The model barge people no longer mention Norfolk Wherries as they used to, where GRP hull makers still survive (just) they are ruinously expensive, the only section that seems to have any popularity is the appallingly ugly little "footie" things, which I would crush rather than operate! Or banana boats fer Krissakes. Where are all the proper sailing fans? Of beautiful class boats or models of real sailing craft? Martin

7 years ago by Westquay

Forum

And now it is ESC time

Hi All, my McAfee warned me off as well! Seems Engel hasn't updated his Security Certificate Algorithm. Which means connections to his site may not be secure, especially for paying! Recommend PayPal. I checked his company here in Germany and it has good write ups in the various responsible authorities; company register etc. Nothing negative anywhere, company was registered in 1994, one manager and two participating investors. I don't think taht there is anything suspect about the company, a 3 man show? An unsecure connection (acc. to McAffee) is the only food for thought. The 'motor maker' seems to be Bosch. Bosch makes motors for all sorts of things from windscreen wipers to washing machines and some aerospace stuff. They won't be particularly interested in footling around with us ! Odd thing is I don't find it or any specs on their Erzatzteil (Spare Parts) site. Better the devil you know .....? Cheers from Munich, 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

from the Philippines

Thanks FIGTREE7NTS! Thank You for the kind words. Honestly I've been searching the net for quite some time because I want to build a boat and hearing those welcoming words from one of the member is really heart-warming. actually, I'm planning of building a USV type sea craft. soon i will venture on model boats as a hobby but for the meantime a USV is my priority since it will greatly help in my work. I'm in the field of Law Enforcement here in the country and stationed along the coastal areas. we have locals here who are skilled boat makers as their way of living so i think workmanship will be the least of my concern as long as i can provide appropriate design and dimension. one of my big task is to properly identify the components inside which on that part i have very little knowledge. all of the components will be purchased over the internet(1 month delivery time) so for me it is imperative to have a guide/list on the suitable components. if you can lend me some advice regarding what model to be used and links for a plan will be very much appreciated. though I'm working with LE agency, this project will be personally funded since the "bosses" are not yet ready to spend those $$$ for a ready made one 😤. despite of this, I'm willing to spend from my own pocket just to improve the capability of our agency. Hope you will not kick me out from this forum guys because my initial plan is not yet a model boat but soon I'll be making one also from the designs and finished project here in the site. pardon me for my long post. i just really need your help. thanks again for the welcome! 😁

7 years ago by analyst

Forum

Web Site Funding

Hi Cliff I think you must have been very unlucky not to get your problems solved by email, I can understand not getting much joy on the phone I think the guy who runs the site has a full time job and only operates the site as a hobby and service to fellow even for a few small glitches now and then it's still great value for money, if it were a business you can bet subscriptions could be £25 or more per annum and if you didn't pay you would not get access so overall I recon we do very well.

7 years ago by allenrod

Forum

Gorila resin glue

Hi THANK YOU ALL, for the great response and special "hi" to Havelock who assisted me with advice in the past (ventilators delayed finish, due to health reasons but now completed) it was a touch of apprehension on my behalf seeing it in Homebase, against a model shop which made me think is it up to standards, unfortunately I could not read the small print clearly on the rear of packaging. How ever we have a Poundland shop 5miles from us my wife is going to go along on Wednesday to see if they have any in stock. felix

8 years ago by felix

Forum

Buhler motor

HI all. Ive been using 2 large Buhler motors in an Imara Tug for over 15 years. I purchased them from a model show selling bits and pieces. The can size is 51mm dia x 89mm long. 6mm shaft, and the only info on the end is "313 4 230 A". They run at around 3500RPM. After all this time they are still running fine, and the boat gets a lot of use, plus I have 2 spares. I was wondering if anyone has specification information on them filed away anywhere. I always get asked what's powering the boat, but can't tell them. See picture. I have contacted the makers, but as they are so old they may not know or as in many cases not even reply. Here's hoping. 😊

8 years ago by Derek

Forum

PS Waverley

Lite ply, plasticard etc. can be bought on line with little problem. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/lite-ply.html I have used them and I get what I order no problem. As to scroll saws ~laughs~ I have never used one so no ideas if I have to cut normal ply I use backed saws ( razor saws are a godsend) a tenon saw is a must have. Cutting curves well I suppose a scroll saw would work but I hack parts out then shape them using a plane and abrasives ( I find wet and dry to last n last) files may not be a cabinet makers cricket but I use them if they seem to be a good idea. Dremel type cutting discs work. Sorry but I just do what I can with what I have, not ideal but I have fun and that is what its all about.

9 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

LIFEBOAT CABIN WINDOWS

Just a thought, not sure if it would work. Cut a piece of ply wood to the size of the window, smooth the edges, glue to larger piece of wood. Get some very small plastic U shape from the model shop, soak in very hot water and then bend around the former with the open side to the board. Going by what I can see of lifeboat windows you would then have to glue this piece to some thin plasticard and cut the profile, stainless dressmakers pins could be used for the bolts/rivet's or whatever they are. 😁 Might be worth a try, let me know if you have a go and it works out. Alan

9 years ago by AlanP

Event

INTERMODELLBAU DORTMUND GERMAY

INTERMODELLBAU Westfalenhallen DORTMUND GERMANY The INTERMODELLBAU, world's leading exhibition for model-making and model sport will take place from April 15 - 19, 2015 for the 37th time. Hence It Is and stays a fixed and steady date In many passionate 2015 exhibition calendars. 😀

10 years ago by MAXTON

Forum

Dusseldorf Fire Boat

I agree with the previous post regarding adding ballast but personally prefer to place the ballast inside the model as low as possible to bring to the waterline. As to the amount you will have to add a little at a time. Could be the maker suggests a sailing weight so if you weigh your model the difference should be the amount of ballast required. Depending on your chosen construction method and power sytem the final weight may be in excess of the makers so trial and error is really the best option. Please let us know how you progress as it will help others when building their models 😀

10 years ago by Dave M

Response

Part Completed

Thank you for your comments. Both the Titanic and Olympic models were scratch built by Bill Lucy and myself from Robert Hahn Titanic CAD Plans http://titanic-model.com/hahn_plans.htm. Come on 6 sheets about 12' x 4'. They are CAD drawn plans and take a while to print so delivery is about 2 weeks . Not cheap but detail is mostly present. We also relied heavily on RMS Titanic a Modemakers Manual by Davies-Garner ISBN 978 1 84832 084 0. We also collected a library of Titanic related books many with photos to try and replicate the original. Many pics are of the Olympic but as the first of the class there were many similarities externally with one or two notable exceptions. if you do decide to build a model please feel free to send me a pm and I will share any info you require. 😀

11 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Chrome fittings

No, YOU polish, they plate! Or, you ask them to polish before plating and pay through the nose for it. I recently had an all brass Albatross silver plated for a trophy and I spent three days polishing it. Worth it though as the final plated job was a stunner. But the parts cannot be anything but metal. I used to use a guy who did the plating for all the white metal model car kits, but the council shut him down because of his problem dumping chromic acid, used in the process. Choices for real modelmakers are being reduced constantly. Martin

12 years ago by Westquay

Response

Starting with the Painting.

Response by Robert on the 27th May 2012: Forget what any plans show, you need the waterline to look right for your particular set up. I would get the hull fully primed, install your radio and batteries and take it for some trials on the water to make sure you have the weight distribution correct. Along the length of the hull I apply several vertical strips of blue painters tape marked with horizontal lines at about 1/4" increments. Then when I'm happy with the weight distribution, take several photos of the hull so that you can see the water level relative to the marks on your tape. Back at base working from your photos, flip the hull upside down and shim it so that the actual water line is horizontal. When you have decided how much of the waterline you wish to see when the model is floating (say 1/4" - 1/2") make a jig to hold a pencil horizontally at that height then trace around the model. I have done this on my last few builds with good sucess. The only thing I would add is when putting the tape mask for the paint line on the boat, you must use something use a high quality tape like Taimiya or you will get bleed through. Robert This is great information Robert, don't know if I am up to making a Jig to hold the pencil horizontally at a specific height but will have a go. Many thanks man.

12 years ago by Stonemonkey

Response

60 Inch fire crash tender

Forget what any plans show, you need the waterline to look right for your particular set up. I would get the hull fully primed, install your radio and batteries and take it for some trials on the water to make sure you have the weight distribution correct. Along the length of the hull I apply several vertical strips of blue painters tape marked with horizontal lines at about 1/4" increments. Then when I'm happy with the weight distribution, take several photos of the hull so that you can see the water level relative to the marks on your tape. Back at base working from your photos, flip the hull upside down and shim it so that the actual water line is horizontal. When you have decided how much of the waterline you wish to see when the model is floating (say 1/4" - 1/2") make a jig to hold a pencil horizontally at that height then trace around the model. I have done this on my last few builds with good sucess. The only thing I would add is when putting the tape mask for the paint line on the boat, you must use something use a high quality tape like Taimiya or you will get bleed through. Robert

12 years ago by Robert

Response

Revell HMSC SNOWBERRY

Hi" there. Well I think some employee was a sleep on his job when yours came off the production line 😴 . The little corvette ship is very popular with all scale ship static or radio controlled . And you sir have done a brilliant job on yours 👍 I also bought one at a car boot sale the other day fully assembled and built to a high standed. 😊 Albert

12 years ago by aprestney

Media

Aerokits sea nymph

Welcome all fellow . Here is restored 1950s Aerokits wreck which was picked up at a antiques fair . She is running on MFA torpedo 500 motor & 7.2 volts 4600 nimh Battery which should make her get up and go !! The other small boat is a Aerokits 1950s fasts patrol which will be the next restored model .

13 years ago by aprestney

Response

Yeoman / HMM

That's great to hear, there seem to be a few more out there now. it was launced in 1952 at a price of ÂA£3 12s 10p, designed by Les Rowell when he was at Hammersmith (HMM) just a couple of years before he left and started Aerokits in 1954. I shall look out for a Yeoman Minx!

13 years ago by thelegos

Media

35'' Aerokits sea commanda

Hi" fellow model boat members " . I thought I would put some photos of my 1970s restored Aerokits sea commander . it running on a speed 600 motor with a 50 amp speed controller on 7.2 power pack at 4600 mh . finished in Antique Ivory white and Mediterranean blue with a varnished walnut finished deck . I like to take all my rebuilds to my local boating lake which is at Sheringham Norfolk and meet up with my old boat friends . Sheringham is very popular with holiday makers and the local people a like .

13 years ago by aprestney

Forum

Website Reaches 1,000 Members!

Great achievement, every new member is a source knowledge and learning this must be one of the best & most helpful sites available to marine model makers Ray

14 years ago by redoctober

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International model boat show.

At least this post is bringing a few comments out of the woodwork! If my boat was in one piece, I would of let my own club display it on their stand at the show. I have no problems with that, perhaps next year it will be on display with them. It would be nice to see more than one fireboat on display on a stand sometime, at least then, people have something to compare them with, rather than just look at one so to speak. Simply seeing them running on thew water is different, as any boat can look good at a distance, skimming across the waves, but whats it like closeup? thats when the accuracy and scale comes in. HI Gregory, I'm not sure if I entirely agree with you there, models made up just to be plonked onto pedistals is not the reason they are made and makes radio control boating just model making. Many makers of these fireboats go to great lengths to not only make the model accurate and detailed but also to make them perform well with features such as working water monitors. I have seen boats which are highly detailed before now that also don't perform and vice versa. It would be good as Paul says to get them on the water as well as just having them for show... that's if we ever do put something together! At the moment I for one am too busy with my job to have time to arrange something like this. But I remain supportive of other members that might be interested in putting together such an event or gathering? Or have ideas for it? Fireboat

15 years ago by fireboat

Forum

Wiring Issues

Gregory Thank you very much for the reply. When I said the draw by the motors that is when they are running a max speed which will not be the case here. I think my problem occurred when I was trying to align the receiver wires. Futuba has a cutout on the end of receiver(prevent from plugging in incorrectly) and with the hitec one can easily plug it incorrectly. I have built a test bench with everything I need in the boat. This way one can easily test the entire apparatus before putting it into the boat. Greg I might have some questions later on but thank you for your reply Don HI Don6398 As gregoryk9 says your speed controllers each need to connect their three wires (red,black,white) to the receiver. I do not understand when you say the red and black are not connected. in many ways a speed controller is identical to a servo with regard to the control signal so needs to have this connection to work. Then again I do believe Electronize used to supply their units with different plugs to allow you to select either a Futaba type connector or Hitec etc. in that case you need to put the black lead into the left slot, the red lead into the middle slot and the white lead into the right slot. I suggest you look at one of your servo leads and copy the wiring. The other four wires will be much thicker. Red to battery positive, Black to battery negative, and if my memory is correct Yellow and Blue to you motor. Yes you do have all the wires connected - 1 3pin plug to your servo, 1 3 pin plug to a speed controller, 1 3 pin plug to the other speed controller, 1 3pin plug to your 4.8v receiver battery or switch harness. I am not familiar with your distribution box (harbor models) but assuming this is just for the 12v supply it should not affect the receiver side. Motor draws of 12amps will as gregoryk9 says not give you a long run on you 7Ahr battery. However gel cells are designed to give more power than their rated capacity - this is really just a measure of what capacity the makers claim the battery will deliver for 1 hour. if the battery gets very hot after a run then I suggest you uprate or possibly change to NiMh/NiCad. Do ensure that all the high current (ie motor wires) are kept well away from the receiver signal wires and your aerial. Also some form of suppression in the form of capacitors around the motor connections would ensure you don't experience interference at distant range. Hope this answers your questions. Good luck dave 😛

15 years ago by don6398

Forum

Wiring Issues

HI Don6398 As gregoryk9 says your speed controllers each need to connect their three wires (red,black,white) to the receiver. I do not understand when you say the red and black are not connected. in many ways a speed controller is identical to a servo with regard to the control signal so needs to have this connection to work. Then again I do believe Electronize used to supply their units with different plugs to allow you to select either a Futaba type connector or Hitec etc. in that case you need to put the black lead into the left slot, the red lead into the middle slot and the white lead into the right slot. I suggest you look at one of your servo leads and copy the wiring. The other four wires will be much thicker. Red to battery positive, Black to battery negative, and if my memory is correct Yellow and Blue to you motor. Yes you do have all the wires connected - 1 3pin plug to your servo, 1 3 pin plug to a speed controller, 1 3 pin plug to the other speed controller, 1 3pin plug to your 4.8v receiver battery or switch harness. I am not familiar with your distribution box (harbor models) but assuming this is just for the 12v supply it should not affect the receiver side. Motor draws of 12amps will as gregoryk9 says not give you a long run on you 7Ahr battery. However gel cells are designed to give more power than their rated capacity - this is really just a measure of what capacity the makers claim the battery will deliver for 1 hour. if the battery gets very hot after a run then I suggest you uprate or possibly change to NiMh/NiCad. Do ensure that all the high current (ie motor wires) are kept well away from the receiver signal wires and your aerial. Also some form of suppression in the form of capacitors around the motor connections would ensure you don't experience interference at distant range. Hope this answers your questions. Good luck dave

15 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Who Is building/restoring what fireboat?

Hey Everyone! 😊 What are all you up to at the moment? Are you In the middle of a build or restoration?... recently finished one?... or perhaps just starting one off? Lets all hear about It! Please post your pictures too, Including before and after photos and also any other documents/files that perhaps have been useful to you along the way! We would all love to hear about It, the more detail the better! 😀 Looking forward to your replies! Fireboat 😎

15 years ago by fireboat