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The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
Just a small introduction, I am a retired engineer, trained as a toolmaker and practiced this in various forms for 20 plus years before going into Lecturing in engineering for 13 years then finally working on development of NVQs and VRQs for an Engineering Awarding Body. As far as My model making experience I did a little as a youngster helping my dad to build the 36 inch Crash tender and then doing some model aircraft but that was 50 years ago. I then became hooked on building a kit car which has occupied me for many years changing things and maintaining it as a recreational vehicle. This brings me up to date and instead of restoring a classic car I decided to get back to model making and this is the start of the 46 Crash Tender.
So here we go
Out of the box and the contents checked off, a minor anomaly on the parts numbering but soon sorted by VMW.
I have spent some time in kitting out a new work station in what used to be my office until I retired. I now have two workshops one upstairs and one in the basement. How good is that?
One of the of the first things was to construct a substantial building board that would give a perfectly flat base and a grid that could ensure bulkheads are square to the keel an parallel with each other also the same aspects in the vertical axis. I lined out the base board with parallel lines spaced at 25 mm and then from the centre-line at 90 degrees I marked the bulkhead positions.
2 years ago by mturpin013
Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
I received a reply from Hobby Engine about the smoke generator system. They even included a drawing (attached) that shows where the smoke fluid is placed. it confirms that the fill point is where I learned it was today:
The smoke will be generated automatically when the boat runs.
You can use the hobby oil on the boat. The hobby oil can be easily found at the hobby stores in the neighborhood. The same in which people used for model trains. About 5-6 drops is enough”.
The hobby shop located a few miles away from my home sells model trains & they probably have smoke fluid available. The website where I found the pictures of the Southampton fill plug mentions that ordinary baby oil can be used in smoke generator systems. According to that website baby oil generates a lot of smoke & is very clean. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to try a little bit in my boat to see how it performs.
I hope this information will be helpful to others who find themselves in the same boat (no pun intended) as me when they want to figure out how to work with Hobby Engine’s undocumented smoke generator system.
Many thanks again to you, Ed. Thanks to Hobby Engine, too, for your prompt, polite & helpful reply to my inquiry.
5 months ago by PittsfieldPete
Shroud for Model Air Boat
Good Morning Chief Petty Officer. Glad to hear of some enquiry about air boats. I built a few of these in the mid to late 1960s and they were great fun. I powered them with engines like the Cox Babe Bee up to a Frog 150R diesel. All were free running of course and it was either a keep fit excercise to try and catch them before they hit the bank across the lake or in most cases there was always a good person ready to perform the "save"..
Due to political correctness and the environment. the I.C powered versions are consigned to history . Them days we didnt have shrouds over the airscrews.
Best method of securing a shroud is to use ZAP Z-Poxy Resin. it is durable, water resistant and can be bought from good
s and is a two pack. One bottle contains the resin and the other the hardner. its a 50/50 mix and you can purchase a range of them with various setting times.
5 months ago by boaty
Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
Hi John, thanks for the help,
in Hereford said that they should set up the same on the basic channels. Apparently the A or H in the series number referred to either aircraft or helicopter.
Thanks again for your help with this issue.
5 months ago by Colin H
Trying to trace a boat
There are very many small remote controlled ready-to-run model boats on the market - mainly from China. Lots of shops do a selection of them. Almost all of them come in several colours - they are intended to be bought for kids in a family to race against each other.
5 months ago by DodgyGeezer
(Pleasure Craft) Ultimate Enticement
Lindberg Chris Craft kit 1984 vintage. A special thank you to MACK RC, Harbor Models and my local hobby shop Empire Trains for all their help (Motor: MACK RC 5000) (ESC: MACK) (8/10)
6 months ago by Puddle-pirate
Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
The prop-shaft, coupling and motor mount that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to.
I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! 😡
I expect it will turn up when I need it least! 🤞
Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor coupling to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to.
I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!.
The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon motor mount and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull.
After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor coupling. I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end.
A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set.
The next step will be to plank the deck.
6 months ago by robbob
Sea Trials and mods.
Wow Robbob, I have just seen the video of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have radio control in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local
to have it charged up as we never had a charger for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.
6 months ago by BOATSHED
Thanks dodgygeezer, having read all that thread I am even more uncertain as to which one to purchase. There is such a diversity of opinions out there. Am I expecting too much to get a definitive answer from the inter web? maybe I will have to get off my backside and visit a
6 months ago by Lordgord
Ed, I get my styrene at a local train
, all of the other hobby shops closed down. it is from Evergreen Scale Models and they do sell on-line as well. Evergreenscalemodels.com I buy both the shapes and sheet styrene and I cut all my materials with single edge razor blades as a, sharp blade is always good. Buy bulk packages and go thru a couple a day. See photos
6 months ago by Joe727
has a rack of all different shapes and sizes of plastic strip. flat, round, square, box,channel all about 300mm long with various amounts in each pack. The
near me has it, TJD Models, Sutton at Hone. I have a bout 10 packs in different types I've used on a couple of models.
6 months ago by BOATSHED
I have been reading about how the high street shops are suffering in regards to sales.I wish to plead guilty as i purchase most of my model boat kits and parts online ! The shop keepers have high rates and running costs etc when compared to some online retailers .I purchased online a 4 channel transmitter,receiver and 30amp esc from china for around £40 as this would cost double from a uk retailer its no wonder there are very few
s left but as an Oap i look after the pennies.All the chinese parts are excellent and work well. I would prefer to buy local and enjoy a walk around a well stocked shop but difference in local retail prices and imported items is now too much.
s of my youth are sorely missed.
7 months ago by keithtindley
Hi All, Although i come from an aircraft background i am also into boating. I used to have a total of five
s within a half hour drive to source my parts, before emigrating i had 1 who was mainly into cars so i had to go online. Now in Portugal I have no shops within 4 hours so have to rely on internet purchases.
6 months ago by Wingcoax
We are living through a technological change brought on by the Web.
During any technological change some things will be gained and others lost. We saw this with the development of factories during the industrial Revolution, the railways and later the automobile. Each new technology brought both extensive benefits and disadvantages, and in each case they resulted in the demise of the earlier service provision. in each case people tried to stop the development, and found that they could not.
I cannot see much of a future for shops in the long term - let alone
s. There may be a market for display facilities - places where you can inspect the items before you buy - but I suggest that most goods will end up being delivered direct from the manufacturer via sophisticated logistics services. This is happening already. Advice is readily available on the Net via forums - too much advice in many cases!
6 months ago by DodgyGeezer
I would much prefer to purchase the items I want in a local shop, be able to gain some expert advice and look before I buy, sadly the nearest shop only has a very limited stock and the owner admits he knows little about model boats, railways being his thing. To find a specialist shop entails a round trip of 126 miles which makes buying on line far more attractive, but this has frequently meant that when the item has arrived (often after weeks of delay as it has come direct from China) it is the wrong size, not as described or there are no understandable instructions. Not sure what the answer is, perhaps moving near to a big city would help.
6 months ago by RobbieMcKennan
Keith, not sure I agree, I have a local
and the difference between online and in shop as a total experience is not that different. On line, although I do use it can have problems when a purchase goes wrong and has to be returned or is not as described, whereas in shop you can try out things discuss with experts and return things if they go wrong. I have found prices when compared, are sometimes not that different when you factor in postage plus time delay.
I do appreciate I have the facility of a fantastic shop - The Leeds
PS I have no commercial connection to this company. other than spending a lot of money there.
7 months ago by mturpin013
Tug For Sale
O to live or have it be easy to get to the UK in Canada we have so few ponds or areas to sail and so few
s most of the items I look for are sourced form outside Canada mostly UK I'm envious .
8 months ago by Newby7
Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good)
Universal couplers work well for me any boat
8 months ago by Newby7
When I retired I one of my savings funds matured and I used it to renew the 'chariot' (Toyota Verso Exec) and used some of the 'leftovers' to treat myself to the Manxman and also a kit for an Akula 2 Russian sub; complete with all necessary static diving and safety equipment. 😊
Next expenditure on that scale for model ships will be in the next life. if I'm reborn as a cat or a warthog I'll have a problem 😲
BTW you can also get a hull only from Deans. £91.40.
And I have a complete set of plans in pdf format if you're interested.
Think you're right about the anecdote, the version seems to depend on where the sailor recounting it was serving or had served 😉
Anyway; the Abdiel class ships were well capable of doing that.
The USN Carrier Groups run out of 'puff' at about 32-34 knots (Nimitz class) whereas Manxman still had 6 to 8 knots in hand 😁
All the best, Doug 😎
BTW; What were you up to 'somewhere in the China Sea'?
Ten years or so ago I spent about an hour n a half circling above the Yellow / East China Sea after take off from Seoul, S. Korea. I had just spent an interesting week at the Daewoo shipyard.
Plane had some problem with the undercarriage, wouldn't retract according to the cockpit display!😲 so we circled dumping fuel before landing back at Seoul. Nobody was sure if it would fold up on landing or not, it didn't, big PHEW! 😊
8 months ago by RNinMunich
Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
Here's the history bit so pay attention...
Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice.
Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat.
The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed.
So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts'
in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times.
I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction.
Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing.
My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project.
And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control.
The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me.
The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!).
By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep.
So off to the
to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger.
The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor.
What an improvement that was!
I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control.
The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio.
I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio.
We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production.
Fast forward to today.
Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'.
It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand.
This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
3 years ago by robbob
Cabin roof hatches
Hi Boatshed, I have used cascamite on some of the older boat restorations, but they are mainly for display boats, but it's rather expensive for most modelling jobs, so now tend to stick to using epoxy and the best one in my humble opinion is from the poundland shop, it dries quite quickly and crystal clear, I've even replaced port holes glazing with it. (it features Tommy Walsh on the package.) Comes in a syringe, so really easy to use.
8 months ago by Colin H
Hi - Have a couple of days in Hong Kong early December and thinking of treating myself to a Christmas Present. Can anybody recommend any
s that have a good selection of boats and if the prices are actually cheaper than in UK. Not sure what I fancy yet but plastic kits to convert to RC or any form of boat kit that is RC compatible. Where to find other items Radios / ESCs etc would be appreciated.
9 months ago by al2612
Old outboard motor...
I remember convetting the Elmic Sprite in the
window, but it was five bob more than the Mabbuchi!
For those wondering why I put an outboard on an aeroplane, I mean't Vic Smeed's Skipper. His Flipper was a plane!
9 months ago by Nonsuch
1/24 crew figures
The figures you are looking for are also used in garden railroads 1/18-1/20 -1/24 you may find figures at a model train shop or on line for g-scale trains.
9 months ago by Newby7
Got the bits, now what?...
Jim, it's a 3S Overlander which my local
are doing a deal on.
I don't know what XT 60 is or EC3/5. I have no Deans connectors. All I have a re the 10 pairs of 4mm bullets with black and red heat shrink. I had found an adaptor from 4mm bullet to Deans male, but it's a slow boat from China by the end of November and I ain't that patient! So bullets all round, I guess.
9 months ago by Westquay
A number of possibilities are available at most
s try this one, they have perspex, polythene,lexan etc.
scroll through the pages
10 months ago by mturpin013
Gee Dee models closing down!
Sad to say that this wonderful Nottingham
is about to close. The owner is 87, and the manager, Malcolm Chiswick, has run the shop for over 50years.
If no one buys it, the shop will close in November of this year. So, if anyone knows of someone that may be interested, please let them know. A lease is available, and the owner can be reached at: firstname.lastname@example.org
It would a sad day if it was to close permanently.
Everything currently in stock is being discounted, except paints, and wood
10 months ago by J Barry
Hobby King receiver clones
Colin, I first entered the world of proportional RC with a set called a Mini-Hex, in 1971. I bought it from the
in the arcade in Exeter. it cost a bloody fortune! 2 Function, essentially a copy of the Kraft set, but made in Belvedere, Kent. I still have it and as far and I know it still works, except the old DEAC battery pack is defunct, of course. it even came with it's own metal cased charger. Green frequency only, can't be changed!
10 months ago by Westquay
St Canute Planking Help?
Balsa block or thick balsa is available in hobby raft and most modelling shops.
10 months ago by Colin H
Doug a quick one for you I've got a wall wart with a blown / burnt resistor. The rest is working fine and I would like to replace the resistor and put back into use with the model it belongs to. I can't read the res as its burnt black (output leads got shorted.) it's the last one in the circuit ( output lead ) Voltage up to it is 15v. it is to charge 7.4v Ncads/ Nimhs AA/AAA packs. I can't work out what the value should be. Should be simples for you if you'd be so kind as to do the maths for me. I'll luv ya forever if you do. Not literally of course but ye know warrimean. Regards John👍 No comments like ducky etc please. Oh yes remember your remarks re our local pubs? The owner of our nearest the STAR ( ex plough Still got one on roof of main windows) rang our bell. He'd seen Marg go off in an ambulance 2 days on the trot and wanted to know if he could help.( We were customers now and again) He brought a wine for Marg and a nice flask of bitter each for Ant and I. Luvverly. He stayed about 2 hours nattering and when he left he said ring him if we needed help any time. We had the same offer from a young chap who helped Marg up the path too with a mate. Our adjoining neighbour looked after their shopping. Starting to see some signs of neighbourliness again it seems.👍😁.
10 months ago by onetenor
(Other) Vosper RTTL 2754
Scratch built from plan (Vic Smeed) in the mid 60s by my brother in law
I have been aware of this model from the mid 90s sitting on a top shelf in disrepair in his workshop in Wales. Being a reasonable frequent visitor l had looked at the hull of this model and at the end of march on a weekend visit I offered to take the hull and separate deck home with me.
I obtained a set of plans off eBay an set about renovating the hull fitting the portholes and keeping as many original bits as possible.Some new deck vents and motor vents were 3d printed by my nephew. The Davits made from plasticard and plastic tubing sadly succumbed to damage during transit so again the 3d printer was put to use deck scuttles an cabin vents were also made
Whilst making the super structures and mast I decided to make two of each with the veiw to making a sister vessel but this will be finished in white more on that to follow. 2754 was duly completed ready to return on our summer trip to see family again. We ran the boat on the Teifi estuary to complete a most enjoyable refurbishment and now my great nephew will have the joy of powered model boats having been brought up with yachts both large and small (Motor: 600 brushed) (ESC: Chinese 320 amp) (10/10)
10 months ago by Rex3644
Renovating my Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat.
Started the long job of sanding down today. I think this is going to take a while. During last week I spent the time removing all of the deck parts still attached.
The motor, rc gear, rudder, batteries and prop shaft have also been removed leaving the basic hull and decking superstructures.
I have visited my local
today to see if I can sort out the paint. I have decided on acrylic but the cans are so small that I would need loads. I also cannot find a suitable red for the hull bottom. I am looking for matt. I was also considering making the main colour Pacific Green or similar. I have found Navy Grey which might have to do.
If anybody can help with where to source suitable paint in reasonable quantity I would be grateful.
I have purchased the sanding sealer and primer. I was considering air brushing the whole project but not so sure now. Any thoughts?😁
I have taken pictures of the progress so far. A lot of sanding still awaits me.😡
I purchased two Mk 17 gun carriages for the tubs. I cannot believe it but they fit perfectly. A picture of these is also below.
One last question for now. Should I brush paint, air brush or spray can. The boat is 40" long.
Another long day of sanding tomorrow but with greater care as I am tackling the skins. I remember how thin these were when I originally constructed the model.🤔
1 year ago by MouldBuilder
Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
Welcome to the world of 'working' models😉
It also cost me a small fortune when I started to get into brushless and LiPo stuff last year after retiring.
That Simprop ESC should be fine for your Supermarine (if you ever find it 😁)
See what you mean about the prices for bigger NiMhs 🤔
OK, 'Go LiPo young man', BUT remember what I wrote above; Watch 'em!
Any other printing on that 2012 motor? Maker? kV rating? A pic might help. What do you mean by 'a couple of LiPos'? 2S?
Re Brushless ESCs; have a look at the Turnigy range at HobbyKing, or Quicrun at HobbyWing.
You can probably find a UK shop for these; Google them!
I use the 30A Quicrun version in my Sea Scout works fine with my Propdrive 2830 1000kV motor and a 3S LiPo. See pic.
Cheers, Doug 😎
11 months ago by RNinMunich
Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
Doug, just seen the prices of 12V NiMh packs! I'd be better off using a 3s LiPo! I can get one of those from the local
for 15 quid. I could use the inrunner I have just got for the outboard in the Sea Hornet and just get one of those brushless ESCs. Jeez, this is all so expensive!
11 months ago by Westquay
Devils in the detail
after another week of work and in-laws visiting, ive managed to get a couple of days of detailing work done on the wheelhouse structure.
parted with several bits of plasticard, plastic rods and strips of various sizes after I parted with a few quid! after alot of photo studying, I have made a fair start on adding all the detail inside the wheel house. its not a 100% acurate, but at this scale and once painted it should show a fair representation of the Waveney class wheelhouse. There is still quite a bit of detailing to go, before I remove the major components for detail painting. Ive started to build the seat for the Coxswain.
There is also alot of roof detailing to go, but all in good time!
11 months ago by Skydive130
Rear Deck assembly –(upper tow deck)
I have found this build fascinating including robbob's build. I have one these to build but will be doing an Aerokits Sea Commander first. As these designs go back to the 60's and were designed by Les Rowe ( I know I had one with an ED Racer in it.) So I will be referring back to this quite a bit. Will start a build blog on it. Shouldn't be to difficult busy changing my model engineering workshop to build boats. Model Engineering too expensive now boiler for my Springbok cost close GBP 1 300.00 alpne 😊😊. Trouble is I am importing all parts from UK etc. Between royal snail mail and SA post office I need to order any requirements in advance.
11 months ago by Ianh
The wife looked at them. Thought they were just right. for a ship we have in the living room! it's not scaled or anything. just one of the novelty thing's! There's a model train store. some 5 miles away from us. we're going to go there and take a look. see if we can find some deckhands for the Brooklyn! if not there's also a hobby shop some 10 miles away. We can go and look there as well!
12 months ago by figtree7nts
Spektrum, new, useless...
very good points all, particularly Norman. Some artf models, foamies mainly, are far from that, I know, I've had some. So take for example a popular brand in small hobby shops, dynam. They make very good models, on a budget. They are ready to fly, once the receiver is in there. £120 ish gets a nice model, with something like a 5 foot span, so it can be big. Last one I had, after pre assembly checks, because I knew this would happen, motor firewall was loose, prop was on backwards, spar for wings needed attention as it didn't fit, some of the wires where labelled wrong, and the wheel retracts where both damaged by over tightening. I knew what to look for, but a novice Dad and Lad, buys a birthday present, assembles, goes to local footie field, and the inevitable happens.
No range check, because they don't know about this
no pre assembly checks
no experience, or help (which is the benefit of a club)
no insurance when the model crashes into the carpark and damages a car (ive seen this)
Sorry, Ive taken this thread way off topic, so wont carry thsi on, apologies to the thread starter!
12 months ago by pmdevlin
Spektrum, new, useless...
Hi Martin, glad Doug sorted your spektrum, the problem is we do live in a different world now, back in the 70s 80s and 90s a model rc aircraft was something small boys and even big boys would be in wonder of because you had to spend a lot of time effort,money,and patience to have one.
However that is not the case now, I can go to Tesco just now and for very little money (£35ish) walk out of the door with a small 4 channel 2.4GHz rc plane and go attempt to fly it in my local park.
Now there lies the problem model rc aircraft are no longer things old men like us would spend months making then going to our club fields to fly.
Let's go one step further, let's go to any good
and buy, ready to fly, what is described on the box as a "Park flyer" now this Park flyer is capable of over 100mph coming out of a reversal manoeuvre in straight and level flight.
Now we on here would never fly this model in a public place, but a lot of people will and do.
I used to be an active member of SMAE way back but am no longer because I'm lucky enough to have access to a totally private field.
12 months ago by stormin
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
But then telephone wires come as twisted pairs (to minimise induced interference) which gives them additional strength (and bulk🤔).
Your wiring looks to me to be about 24 gauge.
I also agree with space in the mast, had also pondered that while looking at my Southampton. Came to the conclusion that I would use the tiny wrapping wire (as U lot call it😉) down the mast and into a socket permanently glued under the cabin. Then use flexible stranded wire from then on down to the electronickery! Then there's no strain on the fragile wiring when you remove the cabin for maintenance etc.
That light 'wrapping' wire is fine for the LED circuits as they only take a few tens of milliamps. I'm also looking at the possibility to use a common return (negative) lead to minimise the wires needed on the mast itself.
I buy my wire Online as well, almost no shops left where you can go an look at stuff🤔 Was surprised and disappointed at the limited choice at Radio Shack, pretty miserable compared with the range I can get here from Conrad, and many others, even Krick Modellbau.
I'm multiplexing my projects with yours, and others who have approached me by PM. Trouble is I can never resist a challenge!
What I'm doing for your Richardson will also be the basis for some mods to my Southampton😉
Anyone know a good 'Cloning Shop'? 😁😁
Big 3D printer and an isaac Asimov Positronic brain perhaps?
Cheers All, Doug 😎
12 months ago by RNinMunich
Spektrum, new, useless...
Yeah, I thought the TX was good for both too. I bought it 'off the shelf' in Conrad, in Tal here in Munich.
Then much later in the small print on Spektrum's website I read -
"DSM2 not for EU models'! 😡
Odd! UK was also in the EU then!?
Will PM U wot I paid for it. Came from HobbyKing - Where else? No wonder
s are dying like flies 🤔
You're right about plane size.
Last one I built (a few decades ago🤔) was the little Simprop 'Zaunkönig' (= Wren). After I 'd built it I looked at the short double decker wings, about the length of my forearm!, and cut the top plane down the middle and added a centre section to about double the span for more lift, and hopefully to make it less twitchy.See pics. Last pic is the sad mucky state when I found it in the cellar last year.
Shortly after that I moved to Munich and had my hands full with other concerns. Still got the Enya 047 Glowplug and fuel tank intended for it somewhere! Might try fitting a brushless instead.
When I was a kid, around 13 / 14, I made a scratch built (no plan - just 'thinks'!) free flight (RC? Wossat?) soarer.
Basically 3 planks of 36x4x1/4" hard balsa. 72" span, 36" tail boom fuselage. That was BIG in those days.
Bloody thing climbed and flew so well on it's Maiden that the last I saw of it was at zig thousand(?) feet over Hemswell Cliff in Lincolnshire heading due east at a rate of knots 🤔 Had launched it from the top of the water tower at RAF Hemswell, Dad was a Crew Chief on Thor missiles there.
Hope someone in Denmark or Norway had some fun with it 😉 I've often wondered where it ended up.
Must dig my Flying Boat / Wing outta the cellar!
BTW: the foam wing/flying boat and Catalina arrived as kits with the foam cutting already done😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS: I still have the Glow-plugs I bought for the 'Zaunkönig', intend to try them as ignition for Flash Paper firing of depth charge throwers and guns on my destroyer. One has to have dreams or there's no progress! 😁
G'night all 😎
12 months ago by RNinMunich
HMS HOOD by Trumpeter
Thank you Ed and Doug - I must admit to feeling a little pleased with myself.
The rod is manufactured by www.albionalloys.co.uk/.
I discovered it at my local model railway shop, which carries quite a few useful bits and pieces for model boats.
Sea trials planned for later this week or early next. Hopefully Octman will be ready with his camera to video the event.
12 months ago by cormorant
Vosper Rescue -target towing launch
I understand the Veron RTTL kit was first sold around the late 1950s , early 60s. I got a boxed unbuilt one in 1995 from a local
whom had taken it in as part ex for another boat. I decided to build it instead of keeping it boxed as a collectors item. it was a nice lightweight boat which I powered with a brushed 550 motor running off a 7.2 Ni Cad. I held onto it for a couple of years before trading it in the same shop where I bought it for a fast electric kit.
With hindsight, I feel I should have kept the RTTL as they are very rare classic models now.
1 year ago by boaty
Spektrum, new, useless...
In view of the age of the Tx has corrosion of terminals or wiring been considered. So called "black wire " corrosion can creep under insulation and cause breaks. I would open the case and check continuity of wires and everything else I could and clean the terminals. Could be that simple.Maybe spot of switch cleaner or just WD40 on switches and contacts. OR all over. it worked for my two Futaba T6 x's One of which is the 5oth Rip Max anniversary one. They had been in a nice dry ,clean garage, for 8 yrs, but there was still a little corrosion present on the terminals I have yet to test the Rx's and servo's as a few days after obtaining the models I became unable to get int my workshop.I was given such a lot by this lovely widow and her lovely .daughter. They wanted nothing for all the kit and models they gave me and I felt very guilty as I had only taken a tenner with me.Mum wanted them just to a good home and wanted nothing for them. End result she said she would put the cash to a charity of her choice.There was so much stuff and models and unused kitsI could barely close the back of the car. Oh yes there was a boat amongst them. That lives in the house on it's display stand. it is a customs launch made from a plastic kit by all appearances nicely finished in Royal blue and white. Small brushed motor with two 7.4 Nimh batteries packs.One in either bilge for balance. in contrast all the electrics in this "Futaba,"3 Channel, were clean and all worked perfectly. A bit odd but the Tx was kept in it's box so maybe that made the difference? Sorry to hi-jack the thread but it was to illustrate the point about potential corrosion. Oops a pun😁 Apols mods😊
1 year ago by onetenor
Crash Tender davit info...
Hi Robbob, I suspected as much🤔 Even though SAR is SAR!
I envy you your proximity to RAF Hendon, but then again I've got the Deutsches Technology Museum 20 minutes down the road (not on foot!) which has all sorts of info on ships, boats, planes, etc etc.
They have superb models, several originals, e.g. U1! And an excellent bookshop with thousands of reference books. One of which showed me how to correct the hull shape of my Type IIA U-Boat. Krick had it much too simple!
I'm not there nearly often enough.
Happy researching all, don't forget to build😁
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: sprinkling any sort of dust or sand (never mind the poor little Chinchillas😉) seemed to me at the outset to be 'hit and miss', here nowt, there a mole hill🤔 think I'll stick to wet & dry paper or the alu foil from Kerrygold tubs. Check 'em out, a great tread pattern 😉
PPS; thinking of starting the RSPCCh! 😁
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Crash Tender davit info...
Gents, chinchilla dust is the flavour of the month treatment for making country lanes in model scenery, which, as you know, is my Winter pursuit. But, having a wonderful clear up in the workshop to incorporate this mornings win at a local auction of a 10 drawer document cabinet, I found my dust and it was a bit course. The Chinchies were obviously a little damp when ground
So, perhaps a trip to Wickes is called for. I was right next door earlier and forgot all about it, dammit.
No matter, plenty to do afore then. So nice to get all my plans and decals and info sheets in their own drawers.
Tea break over, back on me 'ead.
1 year ago by Westquay
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
Mornin' Pete (at least it is here!)
Yes, switch on only one light at a time to avoid any confusion with the readings. Easier to find the 'live one' then.
Socket means the connectors on the circuit board where you told me plugs from the superstructure wiring are connected , and as I saw in your photos.
First job is to trace all wires back from the existing lights and note them on your sketch. if any are directly soldered into the board the procedure is just the same as if it were a socket pin.
I'm particularly curious about the voltage to the bulb, and why it's a bulb in the first place.
Carefully check all other lights, if they are also bulbs we have a slightly different ball game. Still need the voltages though 😉
I guess we are all collectively responsible for the demise of local
s and Radio Shacks and the like. We all want Rolls Royces and Cadillacs but are only prepared to pay Hyundai and Toyota prices, so we all (me too - Guilty as Charged🤔) buy online from HobbyKing and similar and the local shops starve. Simple economics.
owners gotta eat too!
Sack time now in Munich, tomorrow (today😲) is another day, ciao, Doug 😎🤓
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Intermittent radio problems
I have a real mystery problem ! Occasionally, one of my crash tender models loses control for no apparent reason. It is running on 40mHz Futaba system. This has been used for a number of years without any probs until recently. I have managed to reproduce the problem in the workshop just once. Effect is that using rudder channel, interferes with throttle channel such that when rudder servo operated the throttle goes completely haywire ! At the lake I have checked to make sure that no one else is on same freq. Most people run 2,4mHz anyway.
When simulated in the workshop I have changed receivers transmitters and crystals and still had the problem. The next day
problem had disappeared ! The other kit used in the boat are a Futaba rudder servo and two 30amp Electronise esc's running in parallel. Have checked receiver voltage under load--- no problem with this either.
Has anyone got any ideas ?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
1 year ago by robhenry
Spektrum, new, useless...
if you have an Orange Rx. like mine, the bit where the plugs go is on the end face, so when you tip the battery wire on its side to plug in, the red wire is indeed uppermost, the black wire, bottommost. The Spektrum Rx. has the plug bit in the top face, so the uppermost, red lead goes through a right angle and goes downwards, but yes, in the middle. I made sure of the polarity first, but that bit you mentioned meant nothing to me, just symbols. I didn't want to trust them if I didn't understand them. The bind plug did indeed go in the slot marked bind. On the Orange Rx. it says BIND/BATT. I didn't plug any servos in as it isn't necessary and I didn't have them to hand without fishing them out of the restricted space in my Vanity model.
I have now watched so many you-tubes and read so many instructions that I can assure you I got the order right. Bind plug has never been out of the Orange Rx, except to assure myself of good contact. Battery pack plugged into AUX> socket, flashing yellow light, Tx. tother side of workshop, pull on trainer switch and turn on power. Beedlyboop noise, light on right hand side of array, but NO flashing on Tx. Hold trainer switch till will to live starts to ebb, give up.
The Spektrum you show, Doug is the same, albeit with different aerials, but the guy assures me it bound to his DX5e before he sent it to me for the trial. Your Orange however is very different from mine. Mine, as I said, has the pins poking out the end and the writing where your pins are. Yes, it has an S in the case, which I read meant signal, not that I knew what that was. it is a much smaller box than yours. Now you can see why I spoke of uppermost as my battery cable has to go on its side to plug into my Orange and in that position the red wire is indeed, uppermost. if you see the normal position for the Rx. to be flat on it's back with the pretty stuff on top.
So, what else can it be?
I will try what you suggested about the metal free garden, tomorrow and after that we will have to wait till the Fly Sky arrives, estimated E.T.A., early next month.
Your PTB looks very bare. Had you always intended to strip the tubes and rudders too?
Now, you have to paint the insides a nice neutral colour, like Spitfire Cockpit green, which is also Jaguar cockpit green, but Maseratis were silvery grey. Don't ask how I know...long story
1 year ago by Westquay
Hi Martin, Yes I'm very happy with it. 😊
Not the cheapest but very good.
I use the whole range from Base coat Pore Filler (Sanding sealer) through matt, satin and full gloss varnishes. in both brushing tins, for small part brushing, and spray cans for the bigger stuff like hulls and decks.
The cans don't reveal what the base is but the thinners is white spirit or any of the usual 'universal' substitutes.
It's made in Holland, supposedly specially formulated specifically for model builders!
But it's available all over the shop, I get mine here from Krick. Just Google Lord Nelson varnish and you'll find loads of outlets, and Hotels 🤔!
For Sea Scout I used all spray; 2 base coat, 2 coats of satin varnish, as undercoat! Then 2 coats of Gloss varnish. Needless to say thin coats! And left to harden under a 300W halogen lamp😉
Lots of 'flatting' back in between culminating with 3000 wet & dry, wet with a little liquid soap. Final polish using two stage paint cutting / polishing paste from the Petrol Head world. See pics. Full details (including the bloopers😡) in my Sea Scout Build Blog.
Have fun with it, cheers, Doug 😎
PS Shame about the Lupins😡, that hybrid sounds fantabulous! 😉
BTW: if you use the brushing stuff thin with 10 to 20% white spirit, otherwise you'll find, as I just did with base coat sealer on the deck of my PTB, that it takes yonks to get the brush marks out 😆