Forum

powered winches for pusher tug.

I wanted to be able to attach a barge to the bow pusher posts of my Egrete Pusher tug. BUT did not want to simply use a couple of bits of elasticated rope, would not really look "right" or would be prone to failure. So after a bit of searching around I found a nice little geared set/kit In Maplins, think It was only A£9.99 or less, I know Is wasn't much. Anyway, It was possible to swap teh gears about a bit till I got the speed of the winch drum to a nice slow pace, so not to grab at the winch cables too quickly and cause problems. The assembly comes with Its own mounting plate, so nice and easy to mount Inside the winch house of the pusher tug, the cables ran through the actual cable pipes through the forward bulkhead. All I had to do was make sure that the actual "tow posts" on the barge were bonded deep In to the hull of the barge, to take the load, especially when turning. The operates on 3v so I just used a maplins twin AA battery pack, and wired up a couple of micro switches on top of a normal servo. So by using one channel of the transmitter, I now had "in/out" control over the winch via one of the joysticks.

11 years ago by Gregg

Blog

Krick Police Launch

I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic paint. I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓 I have assembled the internal parts which hold the , battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

St Canute build help

Hello everyone, many thanks for all your kind help and advice regarding the installation of the M500 to this model. As l am pretty new to this website can someone advise me how to find an older forum conversation and to reply to a post, there are a few people out there l would like to thank but l cannot find out how to find that older forum to thank a few people. Thanks Richard

5 years ago by Richard7

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator

Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a “premium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton “premium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete

4 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

New Smoke Generators

HI to all, I hope everyone had a good Christmas... I have started a new line of smoke generators here In Australia, At the moment I have 2 sizes available and more on the drawing board. These new units will run on 12 volts and draw about 1 amp using oil based fluid. Two Sizes SG-1 80 x 45 x 50mm outlet 1/2" This unit Is design for the smaller craft or small spaces a neat little unit that performs great runs for 25mins on 1 fill of the tank (25mls) $65.00 SG-2 100 x 65 x 60mm outlet 1/2" Designed for the larger boats with a bigger tank and more powerful fan unit runs for 40min on 1 fill of the tank (35mls) $75.00 Both smoke generators can be connected directly to your power supply or to your for control of the fan speed ( Just need to make sure your speed controller can handle the extra power) you can set It up for 1 stack or 2 with 1/2" copper pipe fittings from your local Hardware shop.. Kit Includes : 1 x Smoke generator 1 x Smoke fluid (100mls) 1 x wire (300mm) 1 x nuts & washers Check out the short clip of the smoke generator SG-1 at youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3vpE0-ovlA or on my website www.modelboatsandfittings.com email: *Removed, PM Only - Admin*

12 years ago by shane

Blog

HMT Resolve by Caldercraft

Having already started the build, Martin555 suggested I do a build log. Never done one before so here goes. First impressions of the kit - very comprehensive and parts of good quality, as I would expect from the manufacturers, Jotika. However, I soon found that quite a few parts had been numbered incorrectly, so be careful! Two versions can be built, civilian and Royal Navy. Being a keen military modeller, there was no contest. My first decision was the power plant. Steam far too expensive and complicated, so I decided on electric. Recommended were 900 brushless s which are very big lumps. Consultation with Jotika resulted in 540 2.5:1 geared s which had the added advantage of lower shafts, making it easier to connect the prop shafts, which are parallel to the hull. 60mm 4 bladed props completed the drive train, which as you will see later from the sea trials proved very effective.

3 years ago by cormorant

Blog

Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug

Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, , esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc , Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe

4 years ago by Joe727

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build

Just started a 40" model of a 41'6" seaplane tender. I have been wanting to do one for years and now that my 36" 100 series 64ft HSL is done I was getting itchy fingers. Started with drawings from the 1976 Model Boats mag (part of the series on ASRs they did back then) which show frame shapes and positions, and enlarged them to 40" (A-O paper after rearranging the images on the A4 primary enlargement used as printing 'pattern' to enable max size on A-O. ) I did the same with the HSL and with a bit of fiddling got all the frames to line up nicely to shape. You have to be a bit inventive building this way regarding framing material etc, but it's possible if you have previous building experience. I found with these particular drawings that the frames were not drawn with identical profiles (left and right sides) so I had to create 1 side and flip it for the opposite side. I also had to create an extra frame between 2+3 as there was no real support for the stringers without it. The front top deck frame is cut from 3mm ply, as are the frames,-(ply is from packaging of a big Toyota Landcruiser axle recall which was done during my time at Toyota, which is 3 ply, very light, and perfect for this type of job, and not to mention, free!) I borrowed this frame method from the old 60s Vic Smeed MTB plan and it makes a good strong bow section to work with (used it on the HSL also.) Ply longerons are run through from transom to F2 with hardwood stiffening between transom and F4. Chine, gunwale and mid stringers are 4mmx2mm Beech, bottom stringers are 3x3 beech with mid stringer doubled. I may have to put extra stringers in the sides but that will depend on how the planks lie in the flares. planking will be 1.5mm balsa as the flares are quite pronounced especially in the bow area, and you just can't get sheets to go round the compound curves. Hull will be glassed and faired when finished and sealed with thin resin inside once everything is ready. Cabin is reasonably easy but takes a bit of working out and fiddling with due to lack of any plan, but it seems to be working out reasonably with the use of photos etc. The model is going to be a representation of a tender which was imported privately in the 50s by a doctor in the Milford sounds area here in the South Island of NZ, to enable him to visit patients, due to there being water access only in many of the remote areas. I have modified the drawings to represent this boat, which included changing the mast and removing the rear oval port and replacing it with a small round port, (not sure why this was changed, maybe an interior modification made the large port unnecessary ?) The boat ended up in Auckland at some stage and was owned by a family not far from my place for a number of years (pic is on the hard at our local yacht club in the 70s, - colour pic is from a friends super 8 movie taken from his boat, on an outing together with Jaguars owner 60s/70s). It is now apparently back in the South Island being restored. The model will use brushed 540 s with twin ESCs etc but still a way off yet. I have to work out a way to make the cabin removable either with or without the rear cockpit, but more likely it will be a 2 piece job. It's a bit of a make it up as you go project. Model Boats frames boat sheets Landcruiser s ESCs 👍 Like 💬 Comment 🗣️ Share 5

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Night Watch

We were very lucky as Boys ,as my dad was chief production engineer in a variety of different works and taught us metalwork ,welding and other skills from an early age and let us have time in the workshop at weekends if it wasn't busy, to work on our projects many a bicycle was chopped and altered after the film easy rider came out (my youngest brother still customizes bikes ) ,we also built a trike with a BSA Bantam engine ,

3 years ago by marky

Forum

Graupner Closing

Sad that their components will no longer be available - the geared s sets - the outboard s - propellers - shafts etc etc etc . All very useful items to say nothing of the kits they produced. Wonder how much the closure will affect the model aircraft fraternity?????????

3 years ago by redpmg

Forum

MFA 919D series geared electric s

Pity the poor novice modeler who has NO model shops or club nearby - how do you get advice other than on forums like this........... The internet suppliers give specifications on their s etc - but they don't give out information of the sort that it might suit a planing hull or a tug etc - and could not be expected to do so. Suppliers are also reluctant to stay on the phone too long understandably - and phone calls are expensive anyway......... And we are trying to encourage newcomers to our hobby - sad really. Plus in this country now there is very little in the way of model boat items - what there is is very expensive and beyond the reach of a lot of people........

3 years ago by redpmg

Forum

Age of steam

Hi Ron, and thanks for the reply, believe me when I say I was not criticising your actions as it is no business of mine. I am very pleased that you are into steam as the more the merrier, we are as rare as hen's teeth on this website, more is the pity. You certainly sound extremely capable in the fitting and turning department, which can save you an awful lot of money these days. Your boiler is pleasantly complex with its nine cross tubes and superheater. I have just taken a leaf out of your book and am now using an adapted gas torch head as a burner with very good results, I can now run the engine flat out and still maintain a boiler pressure of 40PSI. Kindly check out my collection of boats all of which use steam as a power source in my harbour. I rather like your cycle and have included a photo of mine a 61 year old Ariel Huntmaster 650 cc twin. Regards, Gary.

3 years ago by GaryLC

Response

Re: Fairey Spearfish

I keep adding to both my model boats and s, no time to get onto building them or refurbishing them though, much to the horror of my wife😁. Too many other things to get sorted and a couple of health issues stopping me from doing certain things. Now starting much needed house decorating👎🙄, that's now well overdue. So I do not know when I will get around to model boats again. I have added 3 boats to my collection🚤🙊 in this year. Three s as well. One brushless outboard and 2 vintage electric s. Both Taycol s, I will probably put one on Ebay and I am hoping to fit one into one of my old Aerokit refurb's🤞. It's frustrating not being able to get everything done as I want to. I think decorating and getting my old Rover P4 back on the road will come first. Health problems depending though🤔.

3 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Re-purposing an old Hull.

Doug the Masai do actually have cellphones - one of a SA cellphone company's biggest customers is Kenya - they provide the towers etc and even in Mozambique you can buy a sim card at any old isolated store and connect quickly. Not sure the Mongols don't either.............. They ride bikes a lot nowadays instead of horses & camels too...........

3 years ago by redpmg

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER, CHANGE OF ESCs

Hi Peter, yes I cool the s with brass tube coils and water pump. I'm not sure if they even get hot as I never tried without them. I work on the theory, 'put everything on you think you might need and if you don't need it you can take it off' I don't prop the s too high,- rather let them rev higher with less pitch, thereby taking the load off the s. The s are 540 45 turns which is sort of 'low gearing, high torque' so they are not straining. I could put on much bigger props and make a speedboat out of it, but it wouldn't look right. Batteries are only 2s 2200 MAh and last for over an hour, so s aren't sucking many amps. I use 2 12V 385 s in the MTB with no cooling other than clip on heat sinks and a computer fan blowing air through the boat, and they've been running for years (get that hot you can't touch them) with no probs. Just keep the bushes oiled now and then. These are so cheap they are not worth worrying about. With fans and ready made water cooling plates available these days for ESCs etc there should be no overheating probs, and most ESCs have temp and low voltage sensors and cut out if they get too hot, or with low voltage, (if they cut for temp reasons you know to up your cooling or unload the s) The modern boat/car ESCs are pretty much plug and play, - auto cell count sensing( LiPos), auto throttle centering etc) Still using a 70's 20A Futaba marine ESC (in the Fairacre launch) which is as good as any similar unit today. Just plug any 12v battery in (no need for cell counting LiPos) and away you go. Was used on 27MhZ but now used on 2.4. Also used an Electronize unit,- nice but huge and makes an annoying fizzing sound going slow so I replaced it. JB

3 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: Arctic Convoy

As regards s - have found lots in better halfs dead hairdryers - plenty of life left in the s (usually 385 type)- old printers (not the modern types) . A trip to the local dump yields a surprising amount of useful items - you can always make a 2nd trip to discard the leftovers when you have extracted the s etc. Old Fridges are a source of thin copper tube - no end to what you can find. Workers are usually friendly & helpful too I found when in the UK..........

3 years ago by redpmg

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER, CHANGE OF ESCs

Do you water cool the s JB? Used to have problems with my very old ESC's from Hi-Tec, with 400 s they were running close to the limit of 10amps on 8.4v without blowing the fuses and causing intermittent glitches. Seeing as I can never seem to connect more than 2 wires without starting a fire went for the easy option and simply squeezed the silicon return tubes from the s into the cooling fins . No more glitches........... Still have to learn about these fancy modern esc's............Hopefully will be doing so in the new year when some goodies should arrive.

3 years ago by redpmg

Blog

Electrics

Various photos here of the electrics. Have fitted some electrical trunking down each side it helps keep the cables tidy. Have also fitted a 20amp 6volt auto relay which is operated by hidden switch on deck which controls all power to electrics. Small 2 amp fuse fitted to safeguard the ancillary equipment. For ease in binding have installed a switch in binding plug link then you don’t have to mess about plugging in and out the bind plug, it will be fitted opposite the fuse holder at top of battery compartment. On the top opening where superstructure fits have a 9 pin socket for electrics in superstructure as well as loose plug for d/f supply.( would have liked to fit pc board connectors but not sure what to get so went this route instead.)

3 years ago by Elsrickle

Response

Re: Arctic Convoy

Sorry for not replying sooner, been having internet problems and its still acting up,am going for it ,am making a list of what I need and hope Santa 🎅 will be Good to me ,I have a few 6v bike batteries in the shed that I thought I might use . A question ,should the propeller be RH or LH ? or does it not matter . Cheers Marky

3 years ago by marky

Directory

Oceanic

Latest acquisition !! A restoration and upgrade project. Approximately 40 year old plastic model of Oceanic. A German built and for many years operated Ocean Going Tug build 1969 Much to do as it needs a full mechanical refit, having just two 2mm shafts plus s and a rudder but no other gear at all. On the cosmetic side the superstructure needs some serious work as it has transfers for much of the detail, like windows, portholes, doors and vents. Strangely she has no handrails or companionways between decks, plus many other bits. Have started a list of parts required to send off to Santa to see what may come at Christmas.

3 years ago by ikseno99

Forum

TRIAL FITTING SMOKE UNIT TO THE HSL

Re looks like a plumbers nightmare JB Does a bit Red but the piping is dictated by the outlets on the water jackets. The inlets are T'd from the pump,(now on the front side of the bulkhead,) go round the s and cross from the outlets to opposite side exits. Was worse before with the large pump where the smoker is now. There are also twin inlets from the stern pickups (extra one for safety and bypassing the pump. Not a lot of room, as the hull is quite narrow, and I built it with close to original bulkhead positions (and dropped wheelhouse floor which takes up a lot of room). Also minimum number of hatches to keep the look as close as possible. Need to be a contortionist to get at things! JB

3 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: K & O Outboard s

They are the best model outboard s i have ever seen, I really like them. thanks for showing them. Martin555.

3 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Aeronaut Pilot Boat

For my next project I am looking at the Pilot Boat by Aeronaut. www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/.../Aeronaut-Pilot-Boat-3046-00.htm I am unable to find any reviews or information, apart from the somewhat limited information on the web. I am not new to model boats but I am new to electric power. It is suggested that two s are used (not supplied). The kit seems to be very detailed with scope to add. Any advice would be much appreciated. Steve

7 years ago by cormorant

Blog

Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials

The fore sub-deck is glued onto the bulkhead assembly, prior to fixing it into the hull. This is a straightforward operation, but some sanding of the sub deck is needed, particularly around the bow. With short strips of square balsa glued onto the hull sides between the deck beams, to support the edges of the foredeck, the whole unit was again dry fitted. Happy with the dry fit and armed with various clamps and clothes pegs, I glued the assembly into place. (Once again, apologies for the lack of photos as I did this before deciding on doing the blog). Before fitting the aft sub-deck, I cut out an opening to get to the tiller if necessary. The opening will be disguised later in the build. Sea Trials. I decided on lead acid batteries, as the weight would go a long way towards ballasting - she sits very low in the water. Jotika advised 60mm 4 bladed props, which were duly fitted. As I have already said, I use a Taranis radio and this has the advantage of being able to set up a differential drive between the s and rudder in the transmitter. As you can see on the video, she turns in her own length. You will also see from the video the 'deck cargo', or cardboard box full of the white metal fittings. This gave me a better idea of how much more ballast I would require for the finished model. I did have a scary moment when the 'deck cargo' shifted and she took on an alarming list to port! I thought I would be a contender for the 'Titanic Award', presented annually by our club for the best sinking. However, with nerves of steel, I navigated her safely back to the slipway. I was most pleased with the way she handled and moved through the water. The s and props supply more than enough power and she will require very little more ballasting.

3 years ago by cormorant

Blog

Bulkheads and fit.

And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings. Having removed deck camber beams, mid deck bulkheads and longitudinal stringers from the CNC sheets, I glued the assembly together and taped it to a flat surface to dry, as per the instructions. However, as you can see from the two magnified sections in picture 1, the deck camber beams and stringers are not flush. I only became aware of this after glueing the assembly into the hull and trying to dry fit the aft deck. Once again, the trusty Dremel with cutting disc attached came into its own and I managed to rectify the problem - not without difficulty. Before glueing the bulkhead assembly into place I fitted the s. As I have already mentioned, with the propshafts parallel to the hull, there is very little clearance for the s. However, with the offset shafts on the 2.5:1 540 geared s, this was not a problem. I used vac formed plastic 'cradle' mounts and standard universal couplings. I am now a great believer in using proprietary silicone sealant to fix the s onto the mounts. This not only cushions vibration but allows tweaking of the final line up, which I do by eye. Before the sealant sets, I run the s and further tweak to get as little vibration as possible. See pic 4. With s in place it was time to fix the bulkhead assembly into the hull. Instructions suggest using slow cure epoxy, but I used Gorilla glue, which does the job just as well, without the trouble of mixing. Included in the bulkhead assembly is the servo tray for the rudder and with that connected and the power plant -two 12v 7ah lead acid batteries - in place, sea trials were fast approaching.

3 years ago by cormorant

Response

Re: Maiden!!!!

Runs real nice, you put that together pretty quickly! How about a 2s 2200MAh (or even 1800 MAh) as that would give you a good run time and far less weight. I use them on my twin 540 45T s with 30mm props, and I can get over an hour of mucking about with the Seaplane tender, which weighs about 6LBs. You could maybe go up to a 55T ? - what wind is your , seems pretty rapid? To reduce your torque roll you could always reduce your pitch or use a smaller prop to avoid adding more weight. JB

3 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

HMT Resolve by Caldercraft

I am using five small 6volt geared s to drive the features. 100, 400 and 1000:1 gear ratios. The s are only around £5 each.

3 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER STAND ADDITION

RE- Yet another problem to sort jb, No problem really Peter, more just a slight nuisance. All of my boats weep oil slightly and it's a bit like the old British bikes (BSA, Triumph etc) saying, 'when they stop leaking oil it's time to put more in' (my BSA B31 and B40 were prime examples)😀 Thanks for the offer on the grease, appreciated, but we have all the different types available here. Probably not allowed to send it these days anyhow!) - nothing remotely flamable,-couldn't even buy a new empty, fluid type Zippo styled lighter on line for my son, had to buy an electronic one! The Lithium is quite good for most things and there is also a similar one which is Calcium Sulfonate, which has even better properties but a bit more expensive and not really warranted. Have included a pic of some SKF grease which looks good but the main problem I have with using grease is getting it into the shaft tube and through the bearings (with shields), and once you put it in you can no longer use oil and will have to try and clean it out before doing that again. A small problem with plain white lithium grease is that it can go hard and 'cake' with age, although if the shaft tube is full it would help stop water getting in as you said. Very little oil weeps out when running as the Teflon washers on the shafts push up and close off the bearings. Only an issue in the car or at home (hence the tray) JB

3 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Night Watch

Sounds like a Honda bike, hehe.

3 years ago by KenThompson

Response

Re: Carla (Neptune)

That's nice, a real traditional yacht. When did you build her?

3 years ago by Nerys

Directory

Carla (Neptune)

Krick kit of the yacht Neptune, re-named Carla.

3 years ago by Rookysailor

Directory

(Working Vessel) Eppleton Hall

Still in the process of building a 32nd scale model of the paddle tug "Eppleton Hall" from scratch, for the most part. (: 540 MFA 919D) (ESC: VIPER Marine 25) (10/10). All electronics have now been installed including 2 s, 2 ESC's, a small smoke generator, a sound module and speaker, a rudder servo, a distribution panel, all running off a 12V gel cell.

4 years ago by Ishmael

Forum

Fast attack craft

Very nice job Martin - looking really good - glad you finished the project even as a static model. Should not have to be much bigger for RC - if anything - a pair of 280's or speed 300s on 6v 2/3 AA Nimh would push her well at the current size . Using one lightweight ESC driving both s and small receiver/servo would not add much weight. How does she float at present? (of course Dodgy would be using brushless s and Lipo's which I'm totally unfamiliar with)

3 years ago by redpmg

Response

Re: row row row your boat

How about a geared 6 volt running a cam. These s can go down to as little as 14rpm and are very small.

3 years ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

Upgrade to 2.4

This is a plastic boat which used to be sold in large numbers for the RNLI. It is now rather rare and is collectable. Here is one on Ebay for £127! Note - that does not mean that they will get a sale at that price - but they will still sell for quite a lot! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPACT-RNLI-SEVERN-RADIO-CONTROL-LIFEBOAT-RNLB-VOLUNTEER-SPIRIT-GREAT-CONDITION/264428640626?hash=item3d912cd972:g:8OYAAOSwrdRdUWr8 These were often converted to 'proper' 2.4GHz by modellers. I've never examined one, but I think they are 27Mhz, driving two s which provide steering and power. If that is so, a conversion would mean buying a 2.4Ghz radio set, a single and propshaft and a servo and rudder, taking out the entire inside of the boat and re-installing the new equipment. You would need some modelling skill to do this. It is unlikely that the other 2.4Ghz sets interfered with your signal. The 27Mhz set installed in your boat will have limited range compared with the 2.4Ghz systems, but it should work adequately close to you. Perhaps your batteries are weak, the aerial is badly positioned, or there was some 27Mhz interference close to you? If someone else was using a 27Mhz radio close to you then it may interfere if they and you were on the same 'spot frequency'. The 27Mhz band is divided up into sections, and only one boat can use one of those sections at a time. These sections are given colours, and you fly a coloured flag on your aerial to tell everyone that you are using that section - called a 'spot'. Do you know what spot your boat is on, and was there anyone flying a coloured flag on their aerial near you? I think you have a difficult decision. Either keep it as it is and make it work as well as it can, or get some help and spend some money converting it. I would try to get it working as well as I could first. Have you tried a range check? Get someone to hold the boat while you walk away with the controller and see how far it will work... and the next time you take it to the pond, ask one of the experienced modellers if they can help a bit...

3 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z8.1

Re Are those the V16 Detroit Diesels ? I wish Red! then she'd be faster than 22knots!! (but sitting up to the gunwales!!) The day someone makes square s is the day we will be able to make a reasonable facsimile of an engine. Tried to find a plastic model of the Detroit 453 (thought of making a couple and running the driveshafts from the s through them for a scale look) but there are very few even close model s (especially to scale) around. Mostly V8s (had the boat had Detroit 6vs or 8vs I might have been able to bodgey something up) but 4cyl diesel (or petrol for that matter) models are like lips on a chicken. An Aussie crowd does a reasonable 1/20 scale Falcon but that's a petrol 6 and the rocker cover's all wrong. If I had used the same 28mm brushless as in my HSL I could have made a case around them and built something on that, but the 540 s are a bit big. There is a scalish looking Engine shell with a 320? inside it on Banggood for around $30 but not sure how big they are, (no size description) - probably look good in a large slowish model. Never mind, can't see them, just a bit of fun😊.

3 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Night Watch

Bury Warrant! Have you fitted your ship with wheels without authorisation?😠 Advisory to NAV Officer: Take A580 NNE, steer course 005° at M60 Junction 14, Steer ENE to avoid Manchester shallows, Steer NNW at junction 17 onto A56 Bury New Road /Manchester Road. Proceed with caution!! Do not neglect Morecambe Bay Patrol. I will turn a blind eye if the odd crate of contraband pudding goes missing🙈 Not my thing😉 FLEET// 2202 CET. ADDENDUM: Never lived on IOM but apparently I was once there as a very teeny weeny! One family legend says I was named after Douglas IOM, the other says it was after Dad's Douglas Flat Twin bike, which he traded in for a Ford Pop when the family expanded😉 Whichever, there seems to be an affinity with IOM as I have a huge Deans kit of HMS Manxman, a ship which has always fascinated me somehow😁 Ramblin' Admiral OUT//

3 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

large smit tug duel esc

hi just finished putting new s, torpedo 800's in my tug had it running off one 12 volt batt with two 20amp viper speed controllers removed one esc red wire so each prop was individually controlled as no rudder, tank turn all was well in test so today tidyed the wires and fixed them in place and tested it again one of my esc kept blowing fuses and smelt of burning this is the one that powers the receiver took it out of the boat tested it on a battery and puff of smoke phoned howes were i bought them they said send it back and we will look at it never had any issues with vipers so hoping its just a dodgy esc will let you know how i get on and but some picks of my boats up cheers Mark

3 years ago by 0151rogers

Response

Re: Fleetline Marlin & K&O outboards

Love the outboard s. Martin555.

3 years ago by Martin555

Directory

Pair of Fleet Line boats

Fleetline boats with electric s and running lights Have original boxes as well

3 years ago by Brightwork

Forum

Electronic Speed Controllers

Hello all. I am currently designing the WTC for my Gato submarine project and would like a little help with the ESC`s. I have to keep things as small as possible and as light as possible. Can I wire two brushed 360 s into one ESC. This would save a lot of space. I am happy to run them in tandem. I have decided to do the ballast by pumping water into the container and out again using a reversible pump run by a second 30A ESC. I would like to run the main twin s from the first ESC using channel 3 as usual. Can I run the smaller pump on, say, channel 5 using one of the 3 position switches or maybe the normal aileron stick. Is this possible? Thanks.

3 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Re: Futaba F14 Dual Throttles!

Hi Ed, I have Cottesmore set up so that I can use independent s and Bow thrust and rudder for manoeuvre in port, then flick a switch to group the s together for normal control with rudder. Martin555.

3 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Electronic Speed Controllers

"Can I wire two brushed 360 s into one ESC" Yes you can Peter, That's what I did with my U25. My s are 385s. The blue thing stuck to the starboard hull side, with two little white trim pots on it, is the ESC. The board bolted to the engine room forward bulkhead is the power distribution board to the s and includes the spark suppressors. Cheers, Doug 😎

3 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Are there fairies.

After carful consideration I think this model deserves a better as the one it has won't align to the prop shafts as the is much too big. As I have a collection of marx s I'm thinking of going with a either a decaperm or hectoperm, unless my spare Tarcol supermarine will line up. I will post again once I find a that will align with the propshaft. Cheers Colin.

3 years ago by Colin H

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Chris Craft Cobra by Dumas

Very skilled piece of work,I've stitched a few bike saddles in the past but nothing as small as these seats ,the boat looks great really like the finish.👍

3 years ago by marky

Forum

Work with Balsa wood

Hi Red, Now that you have explained what a "sticky" is, no the subject of this thread was working with Balsa and as I have not used Balsa wood for so many years I was just sharing my thoughts and experiences, as I might help the newer members that have not used this wood before. As more experienced modellers I think that we tend to lose sight and forget the new guys to the hobby. There is nothing worse than trying to understand some of the more complex stuff when you can't understand the simple stuff first. Anyway enough woffel , the servo has it own built in speed controller. When you strip off the gears and remove the rest you are left with this (see photo) and speed controller. The pot you can use to zero then any movement from the TX stick will dive you forward and reverse. You can replace the pot with two equal resisters ( I think it's 2k2 not sure at the moment. I don't know what other s you can use it on that is to technical for me. Also if you remove the you can then connect led lighting circuits to it. You can see this on utube. Martin555.

3 years ago by Martin555

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z-5

First swim in the 'indoor test tank'. Floats spot on and has truckloads of power. may have to fit the 80T s yet as it may have a bit much thrust with the 45T 540s, have to wait for 'sea trials' to see what if anything needs changing. Excess power is a waste I think, and it's better to and prop the model so full power is scale like, and not race boat capable. Not exactly quiet, but have not oil filled the shafts yet and they are spinning at 12000 RPM( the 80Ts should be a lot quieter). Speed controllers 'chirp' a bit but there's probably only me to care about that anyway. Looking ok so far. JB

3 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build. Quest for the correct engine sound

True Martin, the whistle is from the turbo but the originals in the ST are non turbo. It would be great if someone would make a cheap sound unit, where you could record a sound and upload it to the unit and it would convert it to a usable proportional sound. The sound units I have work like this and have an SD card in the system where an original sound is split into small WAV ? bytes and each one loops if stopped in a particular position, or steps up the folders in sinc with the TX (bit like going up the scale on a piano. Problem is to find a genius who can hack this system and find a way to copy a sound into the SD card we could all use. Only way at the moment is to use an installed sound, or find a smooth continuous 0-full power sound and make a WAV file and send it to the manufacturer (GT Power-China) and get them to convert it, and send you a download an hope it will install, -super complicated! Got to be an easy way!? The sound on this vid is (this is a bit like your cryptic stuff Martin) made by an inkjet printer carriage on 4v run through one of those adjustable voltage regs we discussed recently, and just sitting on the deck (as a sound board). I've been trying things like this for years, on and off, and you can get some quite good sounds from electric s attached to resonator boxes, - even found the lid of a jam jar sounds like a hot bulb engine when clicked in and out over a small box (like the old clickers we had as kids), Thought of making one with a cam on a geared electric on an ESC. Always on the lookout for a cheaper alternative. JB

3 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Are there fairies.

".....That is a puzzle, if its a dc why would it have 3 brushes. I have only seen 2 or 4 on dc s......" From the excellent Workshop Practice series No.16 - Electric s - Jim Cox: "...More modern types (of automobile wiper s) are permanent magnet s which use a three brush system. A pair of brushes in the normal position 180 deg apart is used for low-speed operation. One of the low speed brushes and a third brush set at about 120deg are used for the high-speed wipe. Because the brush at 120 deg only sees a fraction of the normal back EMF more current flows and the runs proportionately faster...."

3 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Are there fairies.

Spare space might be for running in reverse Colin, (move a brush to the other side) or maybe for a different speed.? Maybe cancel thoughts on wiper , looks like a beast! Might have had drive belts on it at one stage (old converted sewing machine ?) Industrial machine perhaps? JB

3 years ago by jbkiwi