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36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob

After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the , prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

4 months ago by robbob

Forum

Aziz, Westerriff, Assurance Envoy for sale

These three boats are still for sale, with no offers to date. I am inviting offers, and I really am not looking to retire on the proceeds, and I will give very serious consideration to any offers received. I do need to make space in the very near future, and I guess Ebay or public auctions may be the next move, however I would rather give a purchase opportunity to model boat enthusiasts prior to offering to the west of the world :-) . All three boats have been constructed to a very high standard, and are in exceptional order. The boats are located in Cheshire, South Manchester, close to the way network. Thank you, Dave

14 days ago by Davecounty

Directory

(Yacht) Koh-i-Noor

I bought this yacht via a well known auction website. it was owned by an old gent who had passed away and was covered in dust and the ABS white hull had yellowed with age. I cleaned the yacht up, rubbed the timber decks down and varnished them, re-painted the superstructure, rubbed down the hull and spayed the hull a grey/brown colour. it came complete with auxiliary , batteries, sail winch servo, ESC and navigation light switching unit. The yacht sails perfectly and looks great on the water. A real bargain buy. (: Robbe) (ESC: Hitec Gold) (9/10)

2 years ago by ads90

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(Working Vessel) Northlight Clyde Puffer

The Clyde Puffer is a Caldercraft kit of 1:32 scale. it is a representative model of a typical small coaster from the Western isles of Scotland, known to many ship lovers as a 'Clyde Puffer'. it has a GRP hull which has full external detail, riveting, strakes etc. and a plywood superstructure and decking plus over 200 white metal fittings. As usual for Caldercraft you need to have your thinking cap on as the A0 plan and the 'instruction book' do not match up but of course they do expect you to have a little bit of experience in model building. it has taken me about 6 months to build, but working on and off over this time. it has a large hull which is easy to house the , ESC, RC and batteries, etc. (I installed 2 lead acid 6 volt batteries, one on each side amidships) which gives stability and ballast. Being a large deep hull it needs a lot of ballast, even in its short length. I have only tested her in the big white test tank at home so do not know how it will perform on our lake. I have sailed her many times on our lake and she certainly sails well. I installed an electronic switch for the navigation lights and gives a good effect during the darker afternoons/evening. (: MFA) (ESC: Viper Marine 15) (9/10)

2 years ago by ads90

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(Naval Ship) Graf Spee

It's a Graupner premium line ATR! ;-/ Wanted some 'quick fun' while working on more complex constructions (HMS Hotspur H Class Destroyer 1936, 1:72 and Type IA U26 also 1936). Didn't work out that way! On first test of s and ESC I discovered that the shafts were so badly fitted that they were binding ;-( So back in dry dock for some hull surgery! That's why some inputs are missing above. Plan is to gradually add functions and special effects; lighting, gun controls, magicians Flash Paper for gun flashes. Maybe fired using my old glow-plugs!!?? Now I'm freshly retired I have more time for this ;-), as long as Gisela doesn't drag me off around the world too often ;-) I also have HMS Belfast from the same series (approx 1:128) also awaiting fitting out. More soon - don't hold your breath please ;-) in the pipeline is some 'Plastic Magic' with Ark Royal, Hood and Bismark all to 350 scale ca 70-80cm. Sorry been in Munich for over 30 years don't think in inches any more (except when buying mag wheels for the chariot!) Cheers, and as my German boating friends say 'Immer ein Handbreite Wasser unterm Kiel!) = I wish you always a hand-widths water under your keel. I sail on the lake in the Ostpark near me in Munich. Very convenient, right next to the Biergarten! 😎 (: 600) (ESC: Graupner Navy V30R) (5/10)

2 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

(Life Boat) Taymar

Model Slipway Taymar Lifeboat and just completed the glassfibre hull, deck and installing s, bow thruster and rudder servo (: Graupner 600 x2) (10/10). The deck was a bad fit into the hull and a battle to fix but with hour long epoxy and lots of sellotape pulling the hull against the deck I got there in the end

9 months ago by Brianaro

Response

Re: Enclosing the controls.

Hi Alan. You are correct, I had tucked that leg of the aerial alongside the ESC and probably would have used that position but I'll take your advice and move it away as far as practical. I'll put it in a thin plastic tube at the front of the enclosure so it will be correctly distanced as you rightly suggest. I had not considered that any nasty RFI from the ESC (or any other acronyms 😉) would be an issue with 2.4G kit. The other leg of the aerial is passed through a hole in the side wall of the well deck into the hull cavity and extends forward, it's also above the waterline too so that should be OK. The aerial wires will be at 90 degrees to each other which I know is desirable too. BTW. I have developed the fan cooling of the a bit more so I'll post an update on that soon 😁. Thanks 👍👍. Rob.

11 days ago by robbob

Forum

Model Slipway Tug AZIZ

Further to the previously mentioned craft, the Model Slipway Tug/supply vessel 'Aziz' is also for sale. 1:50 scale, and measuring just over 110 cms. Again, constructed to the highest of standards, and with excellent detail, the craft has been used only sparingly. As with the other boats, the radio/electrical gear needs attention, as it is only presently fitted with the two s and the rudder servo. This is a very impressive looking vessel, and I will give serious consideration to any offers that may be forthcoming. Many thanks, Dave

20 days ago by Davecounty

Blog

The well deck floor & sides.

The ‘box’ of the prototype I’m building is made of balsa wood, later production models are produced in ply and have the planking lines laser etched on the floor panels, and as balsa doesn’t take stain particularly well I have used separate obeche panels to line the box internally that can be finished with the Teak stain that I’m using. This does, however, mean that I can apply the deck lines using a black indelible marker pen and incorporate some detail lines around the housing. I started by cutting and shaping two obeche panels that join along the centre line of the deck and fit neatly around the mount and prop-shaft, then I used some tracing paper over the panels to make a test pattern for the planking lines. When I was happy with the layout of the lines I first applied two coat of Teak stain to the panels, and when that was dry I used a .8mm pen to mark the deck lines, the ink takes a while to dry fully and I found it all too easy to smudge some lines 😡 which had to be very quickly taken off with a dampened cotton bud and re-applied. After 24 hours the ink had fully dried and was impervious to smudging and resistant to removal by any means (except a solvent). The floor panels were then glued down to the balsa floor with an even spread of aliphatic glue and weighted down over all of the area as there was a tendency for the panels to curl and lift. Each side panel was made in one piece and then separated into two parts to make the fitting easier, the join will be covered with a vertical detail strip, and they were also stained before being glued and clamped in place. No lining detail was applied to the side panels as I’ll do this with other surface applied pieces later but only in the area outside of the cabin. All the panels were given a couple of coats of satin lacquer to enhance and protect the finish.

5 days ago by robbob

Blog

Hull finishing touches

The Huntsman Hull has now had the finishing touches applied...Sanding Sealer, Eze-Kote, glassfibre sheet and hull chine bars added. The inside of the hull has been given a good dollop of Eze-Kote to seal it and waterproof it so next job is to fit the prop tube and before the whole hull gets a coat of primer... I've only just realised, but the kit from SLEC does not contain any decking, so I need to sort out whether to just go for plain mahogany veneer or try to find teak decking which is laser cut to fit with plank marks....any help or advice here welcome for a novice! (I can't find anything suitable on the internet). 😡

5 days ago by StuartE

Response

Servo Mount

Accidently deleted posts - Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 3 ) hi there With regard the servo rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲

7 days ago by mturpin013

Forum

CNC boat kits...?

Continuing the saga - assembling the mechanics is one thing - getting it to be accurate requires a lot of set-up work! Here is the machine bolted to a thick chunk of ply, having all the axes checked out for runout. They are all adjustable, so occasionally some shimming needs to be done. Note that though a start has been made on some of the wiring, this is just the mechanics. No s or control systems have been added yet...

7 days ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

CNC boat kits...?

Anyone into CNC, or perhaps looking to get into it? I am wondering about putting my plans out as G Code, and it would be useful to have a discussion about the practicalities. For instance, what bed size do people use? Model boat plans are a bit specialist for most CNC boards. They worry about cutting hard materials - we mainly use balsa and ply. Their machines are usually square - ours would need to be long and thin. They use big commercial routers and spindles - we could get away with smaller s and dental burrs. I picked up one of these over Christmas, and am currently going through the learning curve. But it doesn't seem to be all that difficult.... https://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/index.php?seo_path=eshapeoko-cnc-milling-machine-mechanical-kit

2 months ago by DodgyGeezer

Response

Basic hull construction completed

Great work on the hull Stuart. I built the same kit last year and really enjoyed the project, the Huntsman is an awesome looking craft too and super light weight. in mine I’ve experimented with a few different brushed s, trying to get scale speed versus “play time” balance. I landed on a 35 turn which at half speed is pretty good for scale speed and at full noise it really gets up and moves for a bit of fun. The last few runs I’ve seen up to 25-30 mins from a 7.2v Ni-Mh pack which has been great. Look forward to seeing your progress, all the best and enjoy the build.

7 days ago by ChrisB

Forum

Anteo 2 Tug

Could someone advise me on a suitable brushed for the Anteo tug 800 mm length. Also how do you reverse ,special esc or reversing switch ? Thanks Dick

5 months ago by Dick

Forum

Graupner Neptun

Scale 1:87 HO Graupner Neptun older kit but not of any specific ship, just a generic coastal freighter with or w/o cranes. Inside is a Graupner 350 geared 3:1; speed control; using one 7.2v 2400 NiMH Found a post of some else’s work. https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers/Mark_Wilkes/neptun.htm

9 days ago by Ron

Forum

Anteo 2 Tug

Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about brushless s and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights smoke etc I think.

9 days ago by Dick

Forum

Anteo 2 Tug

if your intending to use a car ESC have a good read before you buy some of them require you to select reverse then go back to neutral before selecting reverse again to actually reverse the . The first reverse acts as a brake. Just to satisfy my curiosity why did you want brushed rather than brushless? There are a lot of brushless s used in the model car sport and generally have advantages over brushed s.

9 days ago by Haverlock

Response

Basic hull construction completed

Nice hard work, well done i now usually get a glass fibre hull if i can. Ive run mine with Irvine 40, and 2 different brushless, 2075 kva and 1150 s and all performed well 3 or 4 cell lipos, go for the biggest capacity 5200`s as the weight is no problem and double your run time. Pic shows latest i think its 2900 kva ill try it out soon. I seem to use the Huntsman then take the s out for other projects

10 days ago by vortex

Blog

Cooling the – update.

I’m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the Turnigy as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the . I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the and attach the new piece to the using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better ‘engineering’ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the model anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the running and I’m delighted to report that there’s a very healthy airflow through the cover 😁👍. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the twin s on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a ‘photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of servo mounts. Take a look at the s in his picture!

11 days ago by robbob

Response

Basic hull construction completed

very nice bit of shaping on the balsa there and filling. I purchased a Perkasa MTB hull off of a boot fair and that part they have done is awful. I have got to sort that out. As far as the size goes, I put a 10 cc Irvine engine in a model boat that should only have had a 7.5cc in it. it went like stink. But even then it would all depend on how you use your throttle control. I would myself still go larger than instructions say but that's because I'm a speed freak. Flat out on the straight and test to the extreme on turn's. Turned a couple upside down as well and still was able to carry on running once recovered. I always take a telescopic fishing rod with me with a weight and floating line for recovery.

11 days ago by BOATSHED

Response

Basic hull construction completed

No. The size is not in the instructions, but from a previous forum post I've been recommended a 28xx Brushless 1100Kv with a 11.1V 2200Mah LiPo battery. Yes. I have that edition and following the editorial. it is a more detailed version of the instructions as both written by Dave Milbourne. 👍

11 days ago by StuartE

Response

Basic hull construction completed

I guess you will only be able to tell properly is when it's primered. I suppose you could always fill it and resand - that will be my fallback position! Is the size in the instructions? Had a look at a build article and it's not in there. if you haven't got it it's well worth getting because as well as the build of that very kit Dave Milbourn has written an article on finishing nd painting which I'm reffering to. it's the Model Boats Winter Special Edition 2018. Chris

11 days ago by ChrisF

Response

Brave Borderer

Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both brushless ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the s, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to “turn”. The Aileron will accelerate the on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre brushed . This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.

12 days ago by RHBaker

Response

Servo Mount

Just moved these two posts that were posted further down my blog by mistake as they are significant to the discussion and bring back the subject as I think its important as I would like to know if any others have a view. the photo is Johns Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 2 ) hi there With regard the servo rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲

12 days ago by mturpin013

Response

Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club

jn 6 just off m53 ch651bq we are right next to the m53 hooton park trust ,its a world war 1& 2 airbase that is being returned to as it was in the before vauxhall s to it over and we have a field onsite where we have built our own pool

12 days ago by nutrunner

Response

Servo Mount

Hi reilly4. Thanks for your response. I didn't think it was a standard feature, it does seem to work though and I did note your water cooled mounts too. Hi Mike. Sorry to hi-jack your thread 😉.

12 days ago by robbob

Forum

Help identifying

Thankyou all so much. Yes a sea hornet with a funny cabin. Wonder how it ended up with this cabin? Wonder how it ended up in a little country town called Ross in Tasmania Australia? I'm sure i'll have some questions in the future re and batteries.

13 days ago by juskiddin

Response

Servo Mount

Robbob, This was my first venture into using brushless s so I was a bit uncertain on cooling. I made the fans from aluminium and bolted them on at the existing 2mm bolt locations. Someone told me they wouldn't rev fast enough but I think every bit helps. I also have water cooling at the front plate of the s. The end result is that the s never get warm, even after an hour of sailing around the lake at good speed.

13 days ago by reilly4

Blog

Brave Borderer

During our protracted wait for Spring, have had chance to reflect on the earlier tribulations with the brushless installation. My enthusiasm was sparked by an article on getting the best from your Tx in a magazine and the advantages of using the Elevon or V Tail facilities if available. My Flysky Rx/Tx has this facility, so after some experiments, set the boat up to use the Elevon function. This puts both ESCs on the same control lever, so advancing the control accelerates both screws equally and moving to either side accelerates, or slows the appropriate . Think this will reduce the coordination previously required to sail in a straight line. Fresh from that success decided to experiment further. The Tx allows reducing Servo throw, so tried that too so could reduce the max. ESC output, it also seems to work. One problem with the original layout was that if the forward speed was reduced quickly it was very easy to move the lever through the neutral point, overshooting into reverse. This immediately reversed that causing erratic operation. The Tx also has a “Dual Rate” facility to adjust the lever response from linear to various alternate rates. This allows the neutral point zone to be increased, so the tendency to overshoot into reverse is reduced. Bench tests of these adjustments suggest the model will be easier to operate. Hope they will make controlling the models performance better in our closest pool, which is quite small. A further precaution to prevent inadvertent operation of the brushless s when using the centre, brushed one, was to add two small relays; one into each of the white ESC signal wires. This allows a another channel on the Tx to be used to select, or deselect the brushless s. Anticipate that by turning this channel and thus the brushless ESCs off, manoeuvring can be accomplished without the operation being overwhelmed by a brushed inadvertently being operated. My patience for Spring is getting thinner!

13 days ago by RHBaker

Response

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31

Hi Stuart, At 23" your Huntsman is only a tad smaller than my 24" Sea Scout which I refurbished last year, look for the build blog 'Jessica - A Sea Scout restoration' on this site. I fitted a 1000kV 28mm Propdrive and Quicrun 16BL30 30A ESC from Hobbywing. including the ESC programming card the whole kit an' caboodle was just under 40 dollars from Hobbyking.com. With a 2S LiPo (7.4V) performance was sedate to adequate. With a 3S LiPo performance is 'twinkling' and a lot of fun to drive. Check out attached video links. Pt1: https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw First run with a 3S LiPo. Pt2: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM 'The competition'! Pt3: https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw 'Final run', the Bier was getting warm Prop is a brass 30mm 3 blade from Raboesch. Hope this helps, Happy Sailing. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Video is in HD 1080p, taken at the Ostpark Lake in Munich (adjacent to the Biergarten😉😁) May 2018.

13 days ago by RNinMunich

Response

Search light

In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the servo having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲

13 days ago by RNinMunich

Response

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31

I would have thought the size would be given in the build instructions or on the plans given Dave Milbourn's (the kit designer) attention to detail. Chris

13 days ago by ChrisF

Forum

Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50

Ahoy Mateys, U50 under construction. its got twin contra rotating props. I made the chassis for the gearbox and from an old gas fire that some kind person dumped at the end of my street.I don't mind anything metal but I can do without the mattresses! Cheers.

14 days ago by mactin

Response

Servo Mount

The servo mount on my Crash Tender came from China, unfortunately I don't have the machinery or skills that Mike has. I found the single linkage to be more than adequate. reilly4. I note that your s have fans attached (first 'photo), are they standard on those s ?

13 days ago by robbob

Forum

Aziz, Westerriff, Assurance Envoy for sale

Thank you for your kind comments, and yes, all of the ships have been built to a very fine standard. With the Aziz already fitted with two s and rudder servo, there is little to do in order to set sail. They have all sailed previously, and I think that some of the RC components may have been transferred from one to the other, dependant upon the flavour of the month at the time. I can't sing the praises of these craft enough, they are impressive in every respect. They aren't in the way yet, but I am fearful that constant working around them could result in damage, so they sooner they sail off into the distance, the better. :-) Don't be afraid to make an offer, I do need to sell them all. Many thanks, Dave ( the site will also benefit from a sale, as a suitable donation will be made ).

13 days ago by Davecounty

Response

Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club

Very interested in attending the weekend. is there facility to park a home and stay over fri sat night?

14 days ago by T33CNO

Forum

What size brushless ?

I'm building a new Fairey Hunstman 31 from a kit bought through SLEC. It has provision for a single prop shaft and I've bought a 2 bladed plastic x-shape prop, 25mm based on a recommendation from SLEC. What is the best/most efficient/most powerful brushless electric / battery combination I can fit? I'm a novice at this and my previous boat kit had all parts supplied. Thank you in anticipation....👍

14 days ago by StuartE

Forum

What size brushless ?

As far as brushless s go I wouldn't know. But I think that you would still need to experiment with various props sizes to get the best one.

14 days ago by BOATSHED

Forum

What size brushless ?

Hi Stuart I think Dave Milborne used a 1000 or 1200kv 28mm brushless. You can PM on the model boat forum site. He is the kingpin on Huntsman's and is Fairley helpful guy . Canabus

14 days ago by canabus

Response

Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31

Hi Boatshed....How is our refurb going? I'm currently building a new Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I've just started so keen to get as much shared info on any "gotchas". I see yours has a single prop....what does it have? My kit is single prop and want to get the most economical/powerful brushless as I can, but as a novice, don't have much of an idea at present.

14 days ago by StuartE

Response

Fairey Hunsman renovation part 6

I'm following your Blog with interest as I'm currently building a Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I'm building the hull from ply and getting the curves right on the hull skins is proving challenging. Mine has only a single and rudder. Good luck with the renovation work👍

14 days ago by StuartE

Directory

(Working Vessel) Mowe 2

I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC equipment; , servo, transmitter and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and painting and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA batteries in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)

15 days ago by StuartE

Blog

Back to 12 volt Smoker!

Well, I got back my 6 volt smoker. I had sent it to be looked at. Just wasn't smoking a lot. But, everything checks out OK! I like the 12 volt Smoker instead! So, I'm ordering another 12 volt smoker and a 12 volt ! The 12 volt smoker tends to smoke more. I figure I'll use the 6 volt smoker and . For my next build. Which will be the Tug Douglas Greg 1/25 scale! See the 6 volt smoker. Smokes like a diesel throttling up! I'm going to make the Douglas Greg a diesel Tug! Here is the 6 volt smoker compared to the 12 volt smoker! 6 volt smoker: https://youtu.be/hSWIXL0nuZE Versus 12 volt smoker: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtVIb7IZJiw&t=21s

16 days ago by figtree7nts

Response

Cooling the - an experiment.

Mike. The in my crash tender barely gets warm so I think you should be fine. Rob.

17 days ago by robbob

Response

Cooling the - an experiment.

I considered doing this on the crash tender using the supplied aircraft prop adapter that the came with so Ill be interested to see how it performs.

17 days ago by mturpin013

Response

Cooling the - an experiment.

That's a very interesting idea Rob and one I've not seen before. I've saved a photo in my PC folder of related items. I think that if you are going to keep it as a permanent feature a drop of cyano would be a good idea despite the tightness of the push fit. Alan

17 days ago by ukengineman

Response

Cooling the - an experiment.

That looks great, pretty cool 😎 and nicely done. I cannot wait to see the finished boat. Also some video of her on her maiden run. Keep up the great work.👍👍

17 days ago by BOATSHED

Blog

Cooling the - an experiment.

Whilst I don’t think I’m going to need to cool the it got me thinking that it may be a useful experiment to see if the ‘Stick A Fan Blade On The End Of The Rotor’ idea would actually work 🤔 So while waiting for some glue to set on another part of the build I decided to rummage through the junk PC bits box and find an old fan of a suitable size, and I did indeed have on that would fit the bill 😀. I broke away the outer fan casing to release the and blades and then set about separating the fan blade, which proved fairly simple. The fan blade has an overall diameter of 45mm which is ideal and there’s a moulded-in centre mark so I used a step cutter to open up a hole to 10mm and then a tapered hand reamer to carefully open up the hole to about 11mm which is the diameter of the end bearing stub on the rotor. The fan was then pushed onto this stub until it seated flush on the wide and end of the rotor can and is a very tight friction fit so it doesn’t need any more than that to hold it. I don’t have a dial gauge but I can tell by eye that the fan is perfectly centred and true and so it shouldn’t cause an imbalance 🤞. The turns clockwise when viewed at the fan end which means that the fan would be pulling air through the side vents , through the stator and around the rotor and would need to exhaust through a new panel cut into the end of the enclosure. The existing enclosure still fits perfectly over the and its fan and wouldn’t need any other modification than the extra opening and mesh. So in theory this arrangement will give forced ventilation and cooling of the in the event that there is a heat problem. In practice I’ve yet to wire up the to the ESC so I have not been able to run a proper test to check it actually works but I’m pretty confident of it. This cooling arrangement could prove useful to others when faced with a similar situation which I why I decided to conduct the experiment...... and validate my theory. Just keep your fingers away from the fan blades…..😨

17 days ago by robbob

Media

,huntsman, pursuit, perkassa

some pics of brushless set ups that seem to work

17 days ago by vortex