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    Blog
    The well deck floor & sides.
    The ‘box’ of the prototype I’m building is made of balsa wood, later production models are produced in ply and have the planking lines laser etched on the floor panels, and as balsa doesn’t take stain particularly well I have used separate obeche panels to line the box internally that can be finished with the Teak stain that I’m using. This does, however, mean that I can apply the deck lines using a black indelible marker pen and incorporate some detail lines around the motor housing. I started by cutting and shaping two obeche panels that join along the centre line of the deck and fit neatly around the
    motor mount
    and prop-shaft, then I used some tracing paper over the panels to make a test pattern for the planking lines. When I was happy with the layout of the lines I first applied two coat of Teak stain to the panels, and when that was dry I used a .8mm pen to mark the deck lines, the ink takes a while to dry fully and I found it all too easy to smudge some lines 😡 which had to be very quickly taken off with a dampened cotton bud and re-applied. After 24 hours the ink had fully dried and was impervious to smudging and resistant to removal by any means (except a solvent). The floor panels were then glued down to the balsa floor with an even spread of aliphatic glue and weighted down over all of the area as there was a tendency for the panels to curl and lift. Each side panel was made in one piece and then separated into two parts to make the fitting easier, the join will be covered with a vertical detail strip, and they were also stained before being glued and clamped in place. No lining detail was applied to the side panels as I’ll do this with other surface applied pieces later but only in the area outside of the cabin. All the panels were given a couple of coats of satin lacquer to enhance and protect the finish.
    3 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Cooling the motor – update.
    I’m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the Turnigy motor as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the motor. I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the motor stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the motor and attach the new piece to the motor using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better ‘engineering’ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the model anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the motor cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The motor is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the motor running and I’m delighted to report that there’s a very healthy airflow through the motor cover 😁👍. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the twin motors on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a ‘photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of servo mounts. Take a look at the motors in his picture!
    3 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Hi reilly4. Thanks for your response. I didn't think it was a standard feature, it does seem to work though and I did note your water cooled
    motor mount
    s too. Hi Mike. Sorry to hi-jack your thread 😉.
    3 months ago by robbob
    Blog
    Auxiliary motor, rudder servo, bowsprit bitts
    Back to posting again....I decided to added an auxiliary motor since I had several laying around and it will come in handy when I am tweaking the sailing setup in case I get stuck in the middle of the pond. Made a stuffing tube just like I did on my rescue tug build. Made a shaft from some 3/16" steel rod, threaded it and polished it up, works great. Photo of the aft section shows continued hull framing and upside down mount of the rudder servo. I will enclose the servo with the small pilot house as is typical on the barge. This will make maintenance and adjustment access easy. Yes, the build is wandering away from the true "Pearl" which I used the hull plans from. it will maintain the same sail plan, but I will modify some items for ease of RC use. Bowsprit will be retractable, bitts are shown in progress. The bowsprit will be made from a carbon fiber "arrow shaft". Mast will be wood and I am shaping out of maple that I have. Staring to plank the hull as well. More to come shortly, Joe
    4 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a “premium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower
    motor mount
    ed in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton “premium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete
    4 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    That’s great, thanks for the link. I will go on there now and have a read. My Father will be looking to add a decent motor to his Crash tender from Slec. We purchased it for him for Christmas. Good luck with the rest of the build. Simon
    5 months ago by Sifi70
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Thanks for your reply. I am more of a speed freak. I love the Vosper /MTB's style hulls as you can really push them to there limits, as I can also with the deep V huntsman style hulls. My Proboat Miss Geico catamaran I can run flat out even on turns. But am unsure about fitting an out runner, I have scaled down the Crash Tender to 28" and have just put in a small outrunner but very apprehensive of running her. This is because i'm unsure of overheating and catching fire. Silly rally as she is a fireboat. But as you have one in your Crash Tender with no problems, then I will finish her off and give her a run. Thanks for your help. I am watching this build as eagerly as I did your wonderful Crash Tender. I cannot wait to see the en result and some video of her on water. I'm sad I wasn't able to get along to the show this weekend.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    That's a really good question that I really can't answer right now as I've yet to run the boat !. The motor enclosure does have quite large ventilation panels on either side which are covered in a mesh and I'm hoping that the motor will be able to 'breathe' as a result. The brushless in my Fire Boat doesn't even get warm after a long hard run and that's enclosed in the hull but has admittedly got a lot more free air around it in the motor compartment. This is not a racing boat remember, so I'll not be using the motor to it's full ability, scale speed is all I really want and expect. I'll report back when it's had some sea trials 😁 Robbob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    How does an outrunner fare with heat when closed in? The one you are using is goint to be even more closed in as it has a box built round it. I have been reluctant with an outrunner in a hull for this reason. I have a Miss Geico with an inrunner which is fine as it has a water jacket.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi SiFi70. Here's the motor I'm using: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-3548-840kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html?wrh_pdp=1&___store=en_us I'm pleased you're enjoying my build blog. Robbob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi, Can I ask what motor you are fitting in there. it looks s nice job. I’d like to read up on it if possible. Your doing a fantastic job of it and I look forward to reading the updates on here. Cheers. Simon.
    5 months ago by Sifi70
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I have I think at least a dozen new and refurbs if not more, in my model boat shed that are in need of work. I am just getting over a serious health problem and operation so I do not know when I will get started. I still have my Classic Rover in bits that I haven't been able to finish because I am still not able to do the work yet. But I will get there eventually. But thanks again for your help.👍👍
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Excellent news 😁👍 No excuses now......get started on building that VMW Crash Tender. And don't forget to start a build blog too 😜
    5 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi robbob and mturpin013, I emailed Mike Cummings and have just received a reply. He said how sorry he was to hear there were these parts missing, and if I send my address he would get them sent to me. Thank you both for your advice. I didn't think that after having the kit for so long I would not have got anywhere by contacting him. I have just sent him my details. Thanks again for your help.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I agree with Rob, Mike Cummings is such a nice guy he has been so supportive with my build sending me copies of drawings I may need without even asking, he even sent me a Christmas card. Keep up the good work Rob
    5 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    As far as I can remember it was from them at the show. I think they were on one of the club stands with a few boats showing the wording on the side of model boats Families Need Fathers. I will try emailing the VMW website tomorrow. Thanks for you input.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Like your build, coming along nicely. I like your alignment method, always had some trouble with this. On my current build I used a short piece of brass tubing, same length as the coupler. it was 3/16" ID and fit tightly over the two 3/16" OD shafts. Worked well for alignment. Keep up the good work. Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Did you buy the VMW crash tender directly from VMW or from a dealer at the W&W show ? Either way, I'm reasonably sure that if you contact Mike at VMW he'll sort you out with the missing bits. There's no reason to be dissappointed then, and the quality of the kit exceeded all my expectations and I bought my kit secondhand from an eBay seller but VMW gave me full after sales support just as they would have done if I'd bought it from them directly. If you don't ask...you don't get. Oh...and if your'e wondering, I have no commercial interest in VMW, they are just really nice guys 👍 Rob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I have looked at the bag of white metal fittings and I do not even have the mast it shows. Trouble is I bought it so long ago now at the show, didn't get a receipt when I paid for it so I cannot exactly do anything now. Too long ago.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    I have just visited their site again and they do not show much to do with the boats they have for sale. All I see is the 46" RAF Crash Tender and the Police Launch that just has a picture and no other information. They show no prices, I was also under the impression that they had several models in their list for sale. I do have the 46" Crash Tender I purchased at Wings'n'Wheels about three years ago. I din't find their site that informative other than for the Crash Tender. My kit doesn't even have the windows and decals that is says and shows in the descriptions. I'm very disappointed really. I will get round to building it one day though. As I will the 34" I bout back in 1994 from Aerokits.
    5 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Hi Dave. The boat won't be finished in time for the show but it will be there anyway. The kit is made by Vintage Model Works not VMB See here: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 Go right to the bottom of the page. They've not got around to doing a full description yet....I expect soon though. Give Mike Cummings a call for more details. Rob.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    It's coming along nicely Robbob. Hope you get it finished in time for the model engineer exhibition. I still can't find it on the VMB website. Best wishes, Dave W 😊
    5 months ago by rolfman2000
    Blog
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    The prop-shaft, coupling and
    motor mount
    that I ordered from ModelBoatBits has arrived so it seems a good a good time to make up a supporting wedge for the mount to fix to. I do have a rigid brass motor alignment aid that I used when building the Crash Tender but do you think I can find it in the workshop?....nope! 😡 I expect it will turn up when I need it least! 🤞 Not wanting to waste time I used a length of heat shrink tubing over the motor coupling to make it as rigid as possible, a trick I had seen done elsewhere, and this enabled me to position the motor on its mount in the desired position and measure the angle that the mounting wedge needs to be made to. I used an offcut of beech that I had in the workshop which I cut to size and then shaped it on the rotary sander that I bought in Lidl, fantastic piece of kit !!. The wedge was then drilled to take the nylon
    motor mount
    and also the fixing screws that pass through the beech block, through the balsa base of the box and into the ply reinforcing plate that I put in during early construction of the hull. After cleaning up the hole through the keel the prop-shaft was keyed with some abrasive, smeared with some epoxy and then pushed through to mate with the motor coupling. I used the excess epoxy resin around the shaft inside the hull and used some packing tape to stop it running out when I inverted the hull to seal the lower end. A quick spin on the motor confirmed that the alignment was spot-on and the hull set aside while the epoxy set. The next step will be to plank the deck.
    5 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Cooling coil
    An outrunner is better for this type of boat as it is more torquey. if cooling is needed (and it may not) just use a proper water cooled
    motor mount
    . Chris
    6 months ago by ChrisF
    Response
    Cooling coil
    Yes, that is what was thinking. Normally with brushless motors it is the
    motor mount
    that is water cooled which draws the heat out of the motor. it may not need cooling anyway.
    6 months ago by ChrisF
    Response
    Cooling coil
    You are correct the coils goes over the body of the outrunner motor but does not touch. it was initially formed around a metal tube but when mounted on the
    motor mount
    there is a 'cereal packet cardboard' thickness of clearance around the body of the motor. Steve
    6 months ago by steve-d
    Blog
    Day Three
    Hi, Using 3mm Baltic birch plywood, I skinned the hull. Used Titebond III wood glue, bent by hand, drilled and tacked in place with small brads. I cut the bottom oversized so it was easier to position, after drying 16 hours I cut the edges flush with the sides using a Japanese pull saw. Built the core for my rudder, see photos, solder my own arm as I did not have one. Used a 3/16" set collar, filed the surface to expose brass and solder a piece brass. Will drill the second hole later. Attached brass plate that will be inside the actual rudder, will build from either plastic or wood. Next, laid out the placement of the stuffing tube, then drilled the hull then I built a
    motor mount
    from wood and added some green foam to limit mount vibration and sound transfer. Set the rudder post and block. Time to let everything overnight. Joe
    6 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Day Two Springer
    Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    6 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Stern & keel formers
    Various small pieces, S8 & S9, are added to bulkhead former F7 that create the curvature of the stern which in turn support the outer skin, in addition there are some pieces that are fixed either side of the keel as laminations to add strength and to support the bottom skins where they meet the keel. The prop shaft has yet to be delivered so I used a length of 8mm plastic rod temporarily in its place so that I could fit the keel laminations K5 around the shaft. I chose to fit additional pieces on either side of the keel between the bulkhead formers to support the bottom skins and some extra pieces of balsa were fitted at the stern to support the outer skin, and in a similar fashion some extra pieces fitted either side of the keel formers at the prow. Once all these pieces were firmly set they need to sanded to the profile of the hull, and this is best done with abrasive paper around a sanding block. I made a sanding ‘plate’ from some 6mm MDF with a sheet of 120 grit aluminium oxide abrasive paper glued to it to form a perfectly flat sanding surface and this was used to chamfer and flatten the bulkhead, keel and chine formers so that the outer skins would lay as flat as possible across them. I also fitted some pieces of ply under the centre section of the box around the keel to reinforce the area under where the
    motor mount
    will be as I don’t think the balsa base of the ‘box’ will take screws firmly. The next step will be to fit the side skins and then the hull will really take shape.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Thunder Tiger Avanti
    Has anyone done any significant modifications to a Thunder Tiger Avanti fast electric? I have one and all I have done is to replace the nylon prop with a metal one thus there is very little increase in performance and the reason for doing this was due to the nylon prop throwing a blade after striking an underwater object. Prestwich Model Boats have a suitable replacement motor complete with a better ESC than the existing Ace one and their system can handle up to 4S Lipos instead of the stock set up of 3s . I have located a source of a 4S Lipo which length and width is same as my 3S one but the height is a little more and it will fit into the battery box. To trim it out properly I would have to add some ballast to the starboard side. Due to the electrics including the battery all being in a small watertight box at the stern there is not a great amount of scope for a lot of mods. Boaty😁
    6 months ago by boaty
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Here's a pic of the set-up, with the ESC central. Rx is in a little styrene box I made for it. Shows the motor too on its mount. Martin And yes I got the heat shrink on the battery leads the wrong way round, but had so much trouble soldering the bloody wires to that stupid t shaped plug I couldn't be arsed to change em over!
    7 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    coastguard
    I bought the hull from a member on here i stripped the insides and redone it to take the rudder servo i then made the
    motor mount
    s from ply i used epoxy to set them in it runs nicely on the two 45mm brass props i will make the superstructure from lite ply
    7 months ago by Northumbrian
    Blog
    Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
    3 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Motor space
    A way to mount motors in a tight space is to mount them back to back on a vertical ply plate using a couple of Terry Tool clips. They come in a wide range of sizes and two per motor should be enough. Strong,firm and makes for easy removal if needed. Here is a link. Or Google TERRY TOOL CLIPS. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=terry+tool+clips&oq=Terry+tool&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.14582j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8👍 Clips best fixed to the plate before gluing it in place if using screws although they could be epoxied in place with the plate in place.👍👍
    8 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Mixer
    Hi TJ, The third motor can be connected to one of the secondary outputs, rudder or third (central) motor as it has no effect on the steering! The mixer only affects the two outer motors to augment the steering. Fairly elementary, anything on the boat's longitudinal axis can't have any leverage effect on the steering.😁 "The WTail mixer also has two extra outputs to allow you to connect up a rudder and a further centrally mounted motor." Ciao, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Taycol supermarine dimensions.
    Hi Colin, I measured on your motor and it's 1&1/4 inches as specified. (Did mention that in my post!) The length between mounting hole centres may vary slightly from original spec, depending on the new bearing bushes I'm fitting. Can't measure that until I have it reassembled. I'm nearly back up to speed now so will start the reassembly shortly. Cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Where do you get these
    motor mount
    s from please and how much are they ? Not seen one of these like this before.
    9 months ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors
    Hello: I have a Hobby Engine “premium” 2.4GHz “Richardson” tug. This boat is identical mechanically to the “Southampton” tug. I’ve read many posts on the forum having to do with replacing the factory-installed motor/gearbox unit with two separate motors mounted side by side. Personally I’m happy with the factory drive setup; it’s quite powerful & it runs smoothly. The reduction gearing is a bit noisy, but my boat is new & will likely quiet down with use. I have two requests for those who have removed the factory drive unit & replaced it with separate motors: 1. If you’ve still got your factory drive unit & have taken it apart out of curiosity, if possible will you please post photos of the internal parts? I’m interested in seeing what’s inside the housing & how the gearing is set up. 2. Along the same vein, I’d like to acquire a spare factory drive to have on hand, just in case. If you have a complete, working drive unit that you’d consider offering for sale, please send a PM to me & let me know what you would want for a price. Thanks very much. Pete
    9 months ago by PittsfieldPete
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) ''Maureen Lee''
    The “Maureen Lee” started out as a Bristol Bay ready-to-run semi-scale model of a typical European fishing cutter. Many modifications were made to her to make her look like an old, worn-out fishing boat. Factory-installed switchable work and navigation lighting means that she can even be operated at night. A 550-size electric motor and metal propeller allow for ample power. A Bristol Bay model is supplied practically fully assembled… you need only mount the two masts and install the batteries. Numerous robust details make this model look great at home or on the water! Technical specifications: Hull length: 850 mm Width: 220 mm Overall height: 737 mm Total weight: 3650 g (Motor: 550 type) (8/10)
    9 months ago by Ishmael
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Hi Doug. Thanks for the design. it looks really good and very adjustable. I have bought a 1485 brushless motor for the rebuild. A bit of a beast so I hope not too much. I think this is a lot more powerful than a 480 so do you think 8 or 10mm ply for the mount. Thanks.🤓
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Now that the primer coat is on throughout, does anybody have any ideas as to how I can mount the new out-runner motor I have bought for this model. is there an adjustable mounting bracket on the market I can buy or is it make it myself. Does anybody have pictures of suitable mounts to give me ideas as to how to proceed. Thanks.😊
    9 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Huge liner model from 1929
    Thanks Commodore,👍 I'm going to use a 2V SLA battery, as normal for firing up the Glo motors. I was wondering about ignition time needed and burn out of the plug coil. Just have to experiment I suppose, trick will be to limit the amount of oxygen getting to the coil I guess. Was planning to mass produce the Depthcharges from balsa dowel. Maybe I could 'scoop 'em up' with my tug or fishing cutter😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) HMS Sabre, Scimitar-class preceded by Archer-Class
    Just finish this little boat, need to have its first trial on the water to measure current draw and perhaps modify the prop size. Make sure water cooling works, and the thing steers ok, as rudder is off set. and may have to be move into the prop wash. The Motor 3650 4Poles 3060KV Brushless RC Motor for 1/10 RC Car Boat 1. 4Poles design, high torque and high efficiency. The overall efficiency exceed 90 percent. 2. Low heat production, long lifetime, strong overload protection and it can function 95% of its features without any heat sink appliance. 3. High quality materials adopted: high intense aluminum alloy anodizing shell , front and back cover , high-performance temperature-resistant magnetic steel and imported high-speed bearing. Specifications: Model: XTI-3650/4.5D Dimension: 50 * 36mm KV(RPM/V): 3060KV Poles: 4 Max Power: 1300W Max Voltage: 19V Max Amps: 68A Shaft Diameter: 3.2mm Shaft Length: 15mm Connector: 5.0mm Banana Connector. The real boat Builders: Halmatic Operators:  Royal Navy Preceded by: Archer class In commission: 2003 – Active: 2 General characteristics Type: Patrol boat Displacement: 24 tonnes (24 long tons) Length: 16 m (52 ft 6 in) Beam: 3.1 m (10 ft 2 in) Draught: 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) Propulsion: 2 × MAN 2480LXE diesels, 2 shafts Speed: 32 knots (37 mph; 59 km/h) Range: 260 nm (480 km) at 19 kn (35 km/h) Complement: 5 (1 officer, 4 ratings) Sensors and processing systems: Racal-Decca Bridge-master 360, I band navigation radar Armament: 2 × General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted) (ESC: China 60A) (5/10)
    10 months ago by CB90
    Blog
    Fairey Hunsman renovation part 2
    The boat was free but I gave a small donation to the club,(Darlington & District Model Boat Club). Started by removing all hardware,
    motor mount
    s, prop shaft, rudder, water-scoops and outlets. Next fill the holes I have made, remove some excess wood. roughly sand down hull. Foam bow area, and glue crack in deck. Find a lot of damage to the fibreglass hull, large chips out of the gel coat and associated stress fractures, and other spider web cracks. Drimmel all crack lines and open up chips and dents, then fill with a filler. an experimental mix of P38 and Araldite, hope it works. Start planning drive options I have a number of items that I have brought and not used that will be put in this boat, otherwise they may never find a home. last picture shows drive option to use up components.
    10 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    What is the optimum prop shaft angle?
    Mornin' Ron, If you put the motor where the batteries are now - where will the batteries go? They weigh far more than the motor so moving them forward will push the CoG even further forward😲 Re shaft angle; as flat as you can get it for the size of prop you want to use. This is to reduce the forward rotation moment of the thrust which tends to push the bow down. The further back you fit the motor the larger the angle will inevitably become due to the space needed for the motor and mount! BTW: Why two NiMh batteries? I would be tempted to change the set up to a brushless and a single LiPo. This will significantly reduce the total weight as well👍 You did say the boat is 'a heavy model'! 😉 Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 8
    Hi Added the three
    motor mount
    s and reinforcements, predrilled mounting holes and shaft exit before fixing into position. Used a long shaft and a dab of paint on the end of it, to mark the points of the motor positions, the use a small right-angle to angle to set the mount 90 degrees to the shaft. Now waiting for some nuts, bolts, spacers and washers Thanks Roy
    10 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    Agree on the 'blue' motor Martin. Looks like the mounting flange, as on the Tower pro motor, is missing🤔 BTW: is that per chance your bald patch in that natty ally covered gent's racer? 😁😁
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    Aha, I assumed it was an airyplane motor. I had an Ugly Stick once, given to me with a speed 400 motor and a gearbox with a bent shaft. So the motor came on board as a spare and the gearbox was dumped, but I stopped doing aircraft and so gave the Ugly Stik back to its reluctant owner. There's a whole range of Ugly Stik type things, all ugly and odd looking but apparently they fly very well. Looks like your photo shows a brushed 380 type motor with gearing too. Not sure about the 62mm length! it's way shorter than that. Has, as you can see, a flange mount. There's no mount for the blue one. The magnetism is amazing. I can hardly turn the shaft with fingers. So, do you reckon the motors would work in a boat? Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    OK, found one, 'discontinued product' 🤔 Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-brushless-outrunner-2408-21.html Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one washer 3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hint🤔 Looks like an Outrunner plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.😉 Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug 😎 Re GWS; https://www.google.com/search?q=GWS+models&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=Yy9FOffyN9znOM%253A%252Cm55UYJTjtHfuaM%252C_&usg=AFrqEzdcX_L57leaM37UXLA9kg6sVLbSag&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiyo8mUnO_cAhUkB8AKHc_UDNEQ9QEwAnoECAYQBA#imgrc=Yy9FOffyN9znOM: Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. if I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' 😁
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    Hi Doug, yes, very similar sizes. (Nice finish on your Sea Hornet, btw. Mine cost me 99p off ebay!). My drill motor is from a 14.4Volt one, if I can find it! OR, I'll buy a 20,000 rev one from ebay. Roughly the same I should think. I'm going brushed because I have ESCs to use up, apart from the one or two for the Taycols, thanks to your kind provision of electro-boards. I was thinking 30-35mm prop. so that's good to have confirmed. This is actually the first full installation I've ever done in a model boat. My Sea Urchin is free running, the Crash Tender was installed by my Dad with REP single channel stuff and I once put a rudder servo in my brother's borrowed 575 yacht. Everything else (and that's a lot) has been static. Just got the steering servo mounted and made a sweet wee box for the Rx to help prevent it getting wet. Motor next. Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay


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