Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Doug, you were quite right. have sent me a new ESC, with no explanantion, but it works in exactly the same way as the previous one, as you said it would. So, I shall ignore the settings on the transmitter and just enjoy the boat! A lesson has been learned...... Thanks to everyone for their valued input. 👍

5 years ago by J Barry

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Slightly confused newbie

No sweat JB 👍 Very curious about what have to say. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

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Slightly confused newbie

Dog I tend to agree except after I spoke to they wanted mu to return it because they said it was not how it should bec

5 years ago by J Barry

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Sorry JB but, Total waste of time and postage.😲 1. The ESC and your TX appear to be working as advertised. If you arbitrarily reverse the servo output at the TX then you must tell the ESC that, i.e. go through the setup process again. 2. if the whole thing works just fine with the servo reverse switch on the TX set to reverse - so what? Why mess about and waste money? There seems to be no particular standard for what is 'Normal' or 'Reverse' between manufacturers. I have noticed this phenomenon with several manufacturers. In particular between older 40MHz sets and 2.4Gig sets of recent Eastern manufacture. I just set the TX switches so that everything works the way I want and 'Bob's yer Uncle, Fanny's yer Aunt'. I really don't care if it's 'Normal' or 'Reversed' - "If it works - DON'T FIX IT!!" Whatever, I would be MOST interested in response. I don't believe there is anything wrong with the ESC.😉 Please post their answer 👍 And yes, I have several Viper Marines in operation with no problems. Just follow the instructions as John posted above, and IF you change anything at the TX - TELL THE ESC!! Good luck, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

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Slightly confused newbie

requested I return the ESC to them; which I did this morning. Will keep you posted.🤔

5 years ago by J Barry

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Slightly confused newbie

John, I have only tried the boat once on the pond for a fairly brief test, so I haven’t really tested the range. I have dropped a line to to see if they have any ideas. in the meantime I will continue working on completing the build! Thanks to you and the others for all your help; I will keep you posted as to the outcome.

5 years ago by J Barry

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

hi ya J that looks like an speed controller in the pic - does this one have the button on that you press to set it up? because I know what you would need to do is set your trim in the neutral position for the throttle and then go through the procedure of switching on the transmitter and then the receiver and then pressing the button on the speed controller so it recognises where neutral is. I believe some of these are something like 100% rpm forward and something like 75% rpm in reverse. if this idea doesn't work you could always swap the wires over on the motor. (NOT ON THE BATTERY) 🤓 Chinee smokey come out of speed controller if you do dat 😲 John

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

hi ya Colin, sorry for the delay - but I am going to open up a can of worms here. Although a lot of people use the 'Y' tail or the 'W' tail mixer from or other Companies to actually mix two speed controllers and a rudder movement in the marine environment, (personally) I don't think this is effective as a dedicated marine mixer. The reason for this, is, I built the Forceful tug a little while ago and I incorporated the 'W' tail mixer in it for independent control of the 2 paddles and the rudder and when this model did 'sea trials' 😊 on the lake & in the test tank (the bath) 👍I was never 100% happy with this. it didn't seem to perform quite right, especially in reverse. The model seemed to go better in one direction than the other. One motor always seemed to lead the other motor so therefore the model would steer off course and you were always correcting it. When I eventually checked the speed of each motor individually with a tachometer I found that one motor was indeed increasing in revs so - I took out the 'W' mixer and went for tank steering (using 2 individual sticks on the transmitter). This was a lot better and saved the day at the lake. Then I wend and had a look at what mixers are available and yes there is the ACTion P94 which in my eyes is extremely expensive - but - there are one or two on Ebay market but also there is a guy called Alan Bond he runs a company called Forge Electronics and they make an independent mixer which I use myself. I find it extremely good. 👍 the name of the game though is for yourself to try setting up the 'W' tail mixer and playing around with it or you could look at individual mixers that do not have the speed controllers built in with them i.e. there is one from ACTion as well, there is one from Forge and as I say there are 2 or 3 off the web market place. Have a look - here are a couple of pics of the Forceful and my set up. The speed controllers I am using in this tug are Electronize and it's Alan Bond's original mixer which used to be sold from Technobots - but he opened up business on his own and I will put a link on when I find it. http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/ http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

fuse holder

Hi all , can any one recommend a fuse holder type for RC boat , I have tested the schenllboot in the testing tank got all three working but intermittently , motor 1 fuse blown motor 3 smoking ,its a 15 amp 7.2v system.my aim is to replace Halfords fuse holders with ones more suited to model boat cant find any on internet which are specific for model boats , also planning to change wire for wire for the fuse holder, programing the ESC works better doing one at a time

5 years ago by teejay

Media

Electric Barbarella

Ahoy Maties! it's been a long time since my last posting. Happy 2019! I just completed my new scratch-built boat "Electric Barbarella". I tried to recreate (with some liberties) one of my favorite boats of all time, the 30-footer Chris Craft Sportsman built during the 1970s. it measures 24 X 8.5 inches. it is powered with a 9.6 NiMH 4200 mAh battery "nunchuck" pack (like the one used for paintball guns), brushless motor attached to a 30A Hydra controller and a 30mm M4 3-bladed brass propeller. The hull (my own on-the-go design) was made out of Balsa wood which later I fiberglassed. For the superstructure I utilized 2mm ABS plastic sheet material. To my surprise the boat turned to be a very stable and forgiving platform. I really feel a very close connection to this vessel as it is my first own hull design.😁

5 years ago by Krampus

Blog

fuses

Schnellboot Radio control setup 3 M400 marine Motors (running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts) 3 Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and battery’s Batteries are 1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH battery pack 2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH battery pack All Batteries are 7.2 V I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short circuits on the connections or switches can anyone help

5 years ago by teejay

Forum

Proximity (Hall effect) sensor wiring

Absolutely Steve 👍 Alternative is to make a holder for the magnet to prevent it getting knocked off by weeds etc. Also agree that any Failsafe' circuits must have an independent power supply. Place to put the switch, or latching relay, is definitely in place of the little slide switch usually supplied on the ESC. Just checked on some of my ESCs, Graupner and , the red lead to the switch is NOT connected to the red lead supplying the RX and servos via the built in BEC. Guess the switch just triggers an FET switch inside the ESC. So the normal 500mA limit of reed switches will be enough. if a latching relay is used make sure the pull-in current is less than 500mA. Have fun All, cheers, Doug 😎 Eric; which sub is your mate building? I have a Type 1A U-Boat dynamic diver, speed and planes only, and a kit for an Akula 2 which will be a static diver, with tank etc.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

fuse holder

Hi all , PS the fuses in the system where 10amp as recommend by

5 years ago by teejay

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Tarpon hardware help

Need help in selecting and matching motor, battery, ESC, prop etc. for my 1958 Tarpon scratch built from MM 494 plan. I am years out of date with the hobby and a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing! I have purchased a Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) and an Speed M600 12 Volt. I also purchased the TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC . Please advise if I am on the right track and which motor to use. Also need help on prop and battery selection. Thank you, Gordon

6 years ago by Gordon-B

Forum

Tarpon hardware help

Looking for more help please. I have settled for the Graupner Speed 600 8.4 Volt (4.8-9.6V) with the TIO Marine 30 Amp ESC driving a 3 blade brass 35mm prop. I need advise on what size of NiMh pack to use and will it be under propped with the 35mm 3 blade?

6 years ago by Gordon-B

Forum

A return to the hobby!

I would appreciate some input as to the type of battery. My inclination is to go for a lead-acid, as I would like the additional weight. I feel that most models look too light on the water. The motor is a 660 with a Viper Marine 25A ESC. Any advice would be appreciated!

6 years ago by J Barry

Forum

Mixer

Hi all, I want to connect three ESC,s which connect to the three motors . I have looked at the W-tail marine mixer and I am not sure if this will do the job, they seem more for 2 motors rather than three . any suggestions

6 years ago by teejay

Forum

Mixer

Hi TJ, RE: RX battery. Any 4 or 5 cell (4.8 or 6V) NiMh of 1000mAh up will do. Use the biggest one you can without upsetting the boat's trim or reducing it's performance / planing etc. BUT: don't forget to disconnect the red wires between your ESCs and RX to disconnect the BECs in the speed controllers!!! Also check that your RX and mixer module etc can handle 6V+! If not use the 4 cell pack. A fully charged NiMh will be significantly above 6V. Some modules; e.g. Action Electronics / Component Shop don't like that 😡 Alternatives are, esp if you need to save weight, 1 use ONE of the red BEC leads from ESC to RX, e.g. the centre one, and disconnect the other two, 2 Use a separate 5V UBEC module to syphon power off the drive battery for the RX, AND disconnect all three red BEC wires from the ESCs. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mixer

Hi Doug I am using 3 viper marine 15 ESC,s and 3 MFA RE-380-Pole DC Motors all have been tested singularly at low speed and connected to 4mm propeller shafts and 30mm propellers and all went well

6 years ago by teejay

Blog

Cygnus GM32

My latest project, Cygnus GM32. Going to be a fwd wheelhouse, other detail not decided yet! Any one have any build detail of running gear used successfully on other boats? I've made a Skeg and rudder and fitted a 65mm prop direct to a 700 size 5000rpm motor which draws 14amps in water. Any suggestions on esc would be welcome other than the screaming I have now!

6 years ago by Bucaneer16

Forum

SLA Batteries!

I have two 6volt 2.5amp SLA's. I use on the Tug Brooklyn in series But, I've noticed that the batteries. Are constantly switching polarities! They both go from + to - then back to - and +! Is this normal or is there a problem with them? Or could it be the ESC? I have a 15 amp PNP! What do you think?

6 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

SLA Batteries!

Hi Ed, I have ESC's including a couple of PNP types. What I do is to start by moving the stick to reverse then back to the middle, (You can observe the direction of rotation). Then to the top and back to the middle. This works. The SLA batteries have nothing to do with the issue.

6 years ago by reilly4

Blog

1/48 Flower Class Corvette

Preparing to build a 1/48 scale WW2 Flower Class Corvette, just recieved the hull from Fleetscale excellent quality also purchased from them was the prop shaft, prop, and stuffing box and rudder. The materials and craftsmanship on these are priceless. The motor is a MFA/ combo drills 12v D.C. pt No. 457-RE800 and I plan on using a Viper marine 40 amp speed control perhaps a little overkill.

6 years ago by Mikep

Blog

Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion)

So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than £100 NIB posted, couldnt resist! Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33". I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her. I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over £150! Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less propshafts and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey? My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue? Another issue is going to be fabricating some propshaft struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the propshafts. is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?

6 years ago by Skydive130

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

Doug, The 6volt battery is currently an NiMh battery not an SLA. The problem was that according to the minimum voltage to the ESC to adequately run the BEC connection is 6volts. That is why I was getting erratic control when the battery voltage was 5.6 volts. The action speed controller will work 2-12 volts and I am going to use a separate receiver battery as suggested by Dave Milbourn just to make sure. Regards Will

6 years ago by Will-I-Am

Forum

Graupner Jumbo 540 motors

hi Will, I agree with replacing the SLA. if you don't want to go LiPo cos of chargers etc etc how about a 5 cell 6V NiMh? much lighter than the SLA For the ESC switch to the Viper Marine Micro 10. That handles motors up to 550 can size, 10A motor limit, and runs off 4.8 to 12V 👍👍 I use these very happily on ships running 2 or 4 540s. A destroyer and a cruiser. Both about 54". http://www..net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-micro-Marine-10.htm You can get 'em about 5 quid cheaper here https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/-marine-Speed-Controllers.html There are also 15 and 20A versions if you want to run both motors off one ESC 😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Media

SA Valour Class Frigate

My second scratch build. SA Navy "Spioenkop". 1:80 scale. 2 600 motors on the scale 40mm (home made) props running on 6v and Hobbywing 860 brushed ESC. Jetdrive (also homemade) runs on a 550 motor (I think!) and a 1060 Hobbywing ESC running on 12v. Chopper is a heavily modified Hobbyboss RN Super Lynx. Hangar door opens as well as chopper moves on helideck with worm drive and magnets. idea is that this would happen sequentially ... but haven't managed to sort that out as I am "electronically challenged". Suggestions welcome!

6 years ago by Joburg-sailor

Response

Range Safety Launch?

Post 2 Range Launch? The bath test has shown up a leak……………….. Have not tried to find where yet but it is hopefully in that small bay as it did not flow over the rib section. Strange I had not thought leaks to be much of a possibility in a boat! Wishful thinking again. Anyway it has put work back a bit. You will notice that the bath water was ‘used’ condition. I was not allowed to waste water due to the shortage so had to use the bath with Radox and herbal Oils in it. I trust it does not affect the paintwork…………… Any opinions on Leak Checking? I did check how it ‘sat’, and the waterline at its current weight. There is something in those images that RN Munich will pick up on! Have received some of the parts………….just like Christmas for me. ( I was a spoilt only child). Two issues strike me. a. It may be of interest if I give sources of the parts b. I think I have a problem with ‘scale’………….. Currently the purchases fall into two groups, electrical and deck fittings. The electrics are not posing a problem yet, but the size of deck fittings certainly is! Taking the larger ‘electricals’ first, I have gone for pre built units. Someone with more ability could build the units themselves. Kits are available. Also far fewer units could be used to start with and added later if needed. As a result of my previous, though small, experience with the Richardson Tug I used Action Electronics and Component Shop in Bangor, Wales for almost all of the electrical bits. They are helpful and efficient with good quality products. I am still using DigiSound for the sound unit, but Action Electronics now makes one as well. I have used a new source for the transducers/exciters. I have previously used Dayton Audio, sourced through SoundandVision Netherlands and costing around £35.00 for a pair of TT25’s plus mail. This time I used Mr RC for similar item, made by them for about £53.00 the pair mail free. They too came from the Netherlands! Not tried yet, but have noted that the Dayton Audio ones had a foam ring on the face which was self adhesive and easy to place. Mr RC require Gluing in place. Going to look for the leak. Next post should be on the electronics which I hope will have arrived by then. BTW, The 46 Firefloat Mk2 blogg by ‘Elsrickle and Fire Boat (Crash Tender) on our site are great sources of information. NPJ.

6 years ago by NPJ

Blog

BRAVE BORDERER

This hobby gives countless opportunities for changing ideas! After some thought, have decided to try another approach. Whilst brushless motors give fantastic performance; so far have had poor experience of system reliability. As more information and advice from other modelers is gathered, suspect have been using undersized ESCs, accounting for many of the problems. However, whilst still waiting for the new brushless motors an idea developed. To instal a brushed motor on the centre shaft, whilst retaining brushless on the outers. My thinking is this could provide several advantages such as; a better slow speed performance more suitable for manoeuvring, lower current draw, improved fuse life and a reliable BECC output. it will also operate at below the Li-Po cut-off voltage, giving a “get home” facility in the event the brushless ESCs cut-offs operate. However, there is a slight weight penalty as brushed motors and ESCs are heavier than brushless. Fitted a brushed motor of the same O/D and mounting arrangement as the previous brushless to minimize installation issues. With a reliable ESC from my stock and suitable fuses, fitted these items along with the ballast and battery used earlier. Now, back to the pool. The system worked well. The vessel speed is much less than with a brushless motor on the centre shaft, but control-ability greatly improved. With the triple rudders she steers nicely. The thought of using a brushed motor on the centre shaft, with a brushless motor on each of the outers is attractive. it is hoped the additional operation of the outers in conjunction with with the centre shaft, will provide the expected performance. The centre shaft would then also provide manoeuvring and reliability with the outers shut down. If this works, think this power-train combination could be ideal. Once the new brushless motors and ESCs arrive will instal and report. On the attached pictures, the first shows the ballasted model sitting with the brushed centre shaft motor, the second with a brushless. The difference in draft is imperceptible, the bow sits slightly high in both cases. The third shows the model with the brushed centre shaft operating only at “full” speed.

6 years ago by Rowen

Blog

push tug..

Having put together a couple of "kit's" over the years, normally with fiberglass hull, I decided after having a electrical failure while on the local pond that I could do with something to retrieve a stricken boat, but with what and how, well after posing the question of what others do I decided to have a look about and found some idea's for a push tug, it seemed like the ideal thing and was something like I was looking for, I didn't purchase a kit, instead decided to build it myself... After making the hull according to the plan's, I looked at it and thought... na, that won't work. the plan's gave the hull a half moon shape, I found that it didn't balance well and needed a fair bit of weight due to the displacement, so I cut the bottom of and now is a flat bottom vassal, this sat better and stable in water.. I intend to run it on a 12v sla battery and two 600 motors... the deck and cabin has copied the general shape but a few changes to add features and suit the design that pop's into my head as I go... its coming along well I think... all materials are mostly odd's and end's, bit's I find and mixed wood except the deck's which I intend to varnish with white sides..

6 years ago by Steve-Teresa

Media

CB90

CB90 Model boat, 52 inches long performing 360 degree rotation on its own axis. The Combat Boat 90 (CB90) is a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet. Powered by two 9.6v Graupner 700 turbo motors (no-longer in production). Two Viper Marine 25 is a Brushed Speed Control designed specifically for use in RC model boats, it has a 25Amp motor limit and has proportional forwards and reverse functions

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

more progress.

First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some programming once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.

6 years ago by Skydive130

Media

Juyilanga

Just fresh off the shipyard, this is my version of an American made Uniflite (firm died several years ago) "Salty Dog" 28. its name is a Puerto Rican slang for escapade. From the same firm who designed and made the legendary Vietnam War Patrol River Boat (PBR), this boat was part of Uniflite's recreational boats line. For this one, I utilized a fibreglass hull I found on Ebay and did the rest with Ethylene 2mm plastic sheets. it runs a 9.6v NiHm battery, a 30A controller, a 3-bladed 35mm M4 bronze propeller.

6 years ago by Krampus

Forum

46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery

Hi John, you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc. We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off. Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍 Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭 Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or , preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah. If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain. I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over! My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁 Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍

6 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

M Sonic microprocessor ESC.

My father built me one too. it had 2 x flat batteries and a “Mighty Midget” motor. it was well loved and suffered accordingly. Brought it to Canada and did a refurbishment. Retained original shaft and prop but with a small motor. Fitted 10 with a mini rudder servo. Now sails well and passed to my Grandson for him to enjoy.

6 years ago by Rowen

Forum

Voltage step down

I know this will sound very basic to experienced members, but my question is; If I want to use an "" Viper Marine ESC, which is rated at 12 volts, and a similarly rated brushed motor, how can I easily get 12 volts out of two 7.2 NiMh battery packs? As you can surmise, my electronics expertise is zero. Brian Hill.

7 years ago by misterbee

Blog

Electronics Down Below (5)

This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use........... In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place. Now to look at where I am at. Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2) Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4) However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 ) Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items. Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo. The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight. Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 ) Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring. Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8) At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it. Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??) Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 ) So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 ) Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13) Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

Forum

Twin motor control problem

sorry to state the obvious, but sometimes the obvious can get overlooked. Have a google and see if the model of esc can power two motors, or give them a ring, then you can eliminate one esc, see what happens

7 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Twin motor control problem

I will take some pictures when I go on Wednesday. The connections are all good. The problem is present either when the boat is first put into the water or shortly within seconds after. The battery is a 3cell Lipo always fully charged before use. I have used a bec and without a bec. Esc's are tio marine 30. I have tried several tx and rx it is currently a Planet!

7 years ago by John2

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Twin motor control problem

Hi John, Have you contacted about this at all. I have never received any answers to my email queries, but a friend of mine telephoned them with a query and they helped him. I agree with Dave and Doug too, but you have not yet told us if you have tried with a separate power supply to the Rx instead of the BEC.

7 years ago by reilly4

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Twin motor control problem

John, I had a problem with my Aerokits Solent lifeboat. What I discovered was that my receiver (I use a Spektrum DX6i) could not continuously feed two ESCs. Alternately the ESCs went into failsafe mode. I eventually solved my problem by binding a second receiver to my transmitter. I now use each ESC, which are Tio Marine 50, on their own receiver. I have retained the BECs on both receivers. This may help you.

7 years ago by Colin T

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sounds

I’ve fitted the sound board and speaker in my Solent class with twin Napier Diesel engine sound, I am very pleased with it

7 years ago by Skydive130

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Submerine

Thank you for the reply already running on 40Mhz skysport transmitter also aerial is running outside and E.S.C is a viper marine plug in and play but still have the problems as previous stated Tony

7 years ago by tonyp

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Twin motor control problem

Hi John, I have a several ESCs. If you have the Plug & Play type, then when you first start you need to move the stick forwards and then back. I find that sometimes they refuse to go forward and prefer reverse when the stick is moved forward, so I move the stick backwards first. This usually works (although I don't know why). I do not use the BEC (my choice). I have also had issues with using a single 30Amp Tio ESC running two 12V motors via the single ESC in my Vosper MTB. No answers from . Regards

7 years ago by reilly4

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Twin motor control problem

The mixer was used because the problem was present with a Y cable splitter. The mixer is WTail mixer and is connected to the rudder. Everything is fine on the bench even full both ways. it is powered by a fully charged 11.1v Lipo

7 years ago by John2

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Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. it worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all! I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. it was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress. The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest! CHris

7 years ago by octman

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Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade

RN............ I have gone for a combined product from . Do you know it? Will start on the 'build over the week-end. NPJ

7 years ago by NPJ

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Blown esc........ again 😢

It turns out that the 8.4v 600 graupner motor is very power hungry, and itvdoesnt like part throttle usage. The safety circuitry built into the esc cut in to save the motor and esc. But when I took the motor out & tried to run it just on a 7.2v battery, it wouldn't turn. So I gave it a spin by hand, and there was big Klunk, and the motor started to run perfectly again. All seems fine now. But i dont trust it. So I've invested in a brushless motor and matched esc which im in the process of fitting now. Thanks for all your help and postings. Cheers, Dave W 😊

7 years ago by rolfman2000

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Tank Steering

Hi Dave, you won't find a Conrad anything anywhere else but on the Conrad (or Amazon/Ebay) sites! But if you look for the Turnigy HT-6 you will find it on HobbyKing, it's the same damn thing for nearly half the Conrad price. See pics. Pure badge 'engineering'! Also just bought some Absima LiPos 2s 4000mAh from Conrad, €40 each. Today I found out that Absima is in Nürnberg (Nuremberg) just up the road from here, same batt €25 😡😭 Conrad will shortly be getting an appropriate mail from me! NO more Reely stuff for me!! I found the HT-6 very easy to set up, amazing what they pack into a $45 set these days. My Spektrum cost 12 times that a few years ago and doesn't do an awful lot more and is more complex to set up 🤔 Won't mess with mixer boards or two stick motor control just yet. Can use the mixer functions in the TX 😊 Have tested the HT-6 with various ESCs; e.g. Graupner Navy VR30 and Viper Micro10, no problems. When the new 2s LiPos are charged the next test will be with a Turnigy brushless ESCs and the BL I want to put in the Sea Scout. Progress is slow but sure. Why do I get on faster with electronics than with shipbuilding!!?? 😉 You're right; Mode 1 or 2 (3 and 4 are also available!) don't matter much. With this set you can assign any control element stick, switch, or pot to any channel (i.e. RX output) you want, and very simply - not like the Spektrum🤔. Like it.👍 I also like having the two pots available for proportional control; gun turrets, cranes, monitors .... 👍 And still switches left over for lights, sound .... Very versatile 👍👍 Only irritation is it won't go into operational mode until all switches are forward and the throttle (left stick) is pulled right back - motor off for an aircraft - safety feature. Minor irritation for a boater but pull the stick back and all is OK and you can then operate normally. Used the spring removal method on my old Graupner 40Meg MC-10. That box was a pain to set up as well🤔 I could programme the radio ATE for the old Home Office Type Approval lab faster, but then - I wrote the software 😉 Cheers Doug 😎

7 years ago by RNinMunich

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Dauntless

Hi Doug...it's this one: and no that little issue is still ongoing...have changed my Tx/Rx/ESC to Turnigy....the ESC's I was using were 'compromised' regarding the set-up...I now have a programmable card to set up my ESC's - The Dauntless has been converted to a Police launch, it's a twin screw using two Electronize ESC's.....just needs a Tx/Rx and batteries, possibly looking at lead acid x2

7 years ago by NickW