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    Forum
    3D
    nozzle
    s
    Looks good but I haven't yet invested in a printer, I'm not sure about the technology, does it take away the process of modelling? just a thought to provoke discussion as it is an interesting process.
    3 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    3D
    nozzle
    s
    Have you seen this? https://www.banggood.com/0_3mm0_4mm0_6mm0_8mm1_0mm1_2mm1_5mm-MK8-TC4-Titanium-Alloy-M6-Thread-
    nozzle
    -For-3D-Printer-p-1325994.html?ID=48183&cur_warehouse=CN Seems a good deal>πŸ‘
    3 months ago by onetenor
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Fairmount Glacier
    A Billings kit, the Fairmount Glacier (or Alpine - comes with 5 naming options) is a sturdy boat... 2 props in Kort
    nozzle
    s, extras I've fitted...37 lights, bow thruster, working fire monitors, radar, & horn. Runs on 2 x 12v 7AH batteries, so runs for a while! Colour scheme makes it visible on the lake too! (Motor: 2 x M500 Mtronix) (ESC: JP Marine) (9/10)
    5 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Response
    Sanding done
    Just found an answer to my antenna 'White Stick'. At work we use a WD40 type fluid and the can comes with a tube you can use with the
    nozzle
    . Some new cans came in and they have nice white tubes...result. Steve
    5 months ago by steve-d
    Response
    HMVS CERBERUS
    Now there's a coincidence!😲 I recently saw a documentary about this ship, I think was in the 'Lost Places' series. Took her months to sail to Oz. Not much left now 😭 Interesting prop, looks like the style used in Kort
    nozzle
    s and water jets. Colin; Rabeosch & co do these types. See attached cat. Very nicely done Sir, πŸ‘πŸ‘ Any chance of a video of her in her element?? 😁 Cheers, Doug 😎
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Mornin Peter, That's probably your best betπŸ‘ I find it convenient to use my cheaper single action airbrush with a 0.8
    nozzle
    / needle setup for larger stuff like hulls, and keep the more sophisticated dual action set with a 0.5 (very occasionally 0.3) for detail work or the smaller 1/350 ships. For the latter rattle cans are of course totally useless, but the scale is just to big for decent brush painting (for me anyway😲) Saves having to fiddle about changing the setup so oftenπŸ˜‰ Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Rebuild starts
    Hi Doug. Iwata do not do a 0.8mm
    nozzle
    for my air brush. I will look into whether my other cheap one can be altered.😊
    8 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    Well today the radio specialist guys checked out the reciever for me, apparently it would need a new capacitor, a 90 volt and a 2 volt supply. Not really possible in such a small boat. So I've decided to use it for my vintage displays. The boat itself will be renovated and fitted with an electric motor, possibly a 600 as I have a couple in the spares box. Still looking for a way to remove the kitchen
    nozzle
    system. The motors that operate it are working so hopefully should be controllable by modern rc gear. Might need Dougs help designing a system I can build. BTW the Hull and cabins and deck is constructed from 1/4 inc ply. Bit heavy but good and solid except for some of the frames are very soft and crumbly. Will start a resurrection blog soon. Cheers Colin.
    9 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    Well Martin, sorry to put adampner on the proceedings but she does have throttle control, but the return spring broke during the test. Have removed all except the
    nozzle
    control as I haven't figured out how to remove it without damage yet.
    9 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    BTW, that prop shaft looks like it hasn't been sealed in it's hole in the keel. Wonderful though the kitchen
    nozzle
    is, it must cause huge drag. Cheers, Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    Fantastic stuff, Colin. if you can get that ancient engine to run on diesel from your car plus Methanol, you could get that kitchen
    nozzle
    going! Where did you just get some methanol from? I'd say the engine is something like an old ED Competition Special or similar with a very home made water jacket and even more home made exhaust wrapper, requiring tubes to be added to the 2 stubs and led to the stern or either side. Doug's yer man for anything lecktrickal. is there actually anything of the original RC in there apart from that superb kitchen
    nozzle
    affair, which deserves to be preserved all on it's own. Control will have been vestigial at best as the engine has no throttle and the
    nozzle
    arrangement will not have had any level of proportionality to it. it will, at best, have been push the button and see where the boat ended up, knowing it could, at a a pinch, be brought back to where it started. At one time all RC was like that. My own REP set was left,centre, right, centre, etc. A wonderful throwback that must be preserved. I wish my local junk shops had stuff like that! Cheers, Martin
    9 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    Thanks Doug, I sort of gathered this principle but had no idea how to control it. There are two motors connected via reduction gears and levers to move the two parts into the various
    nozzle
    shapes for the thrust and the whole thing rotates via one of the motors also with reduction gearbox. The pictures are the best I could do with it still in the boat as I have not figured out how to remove it without damage yet.
    9 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Launch ELAINE,
    So far, only checked the engine, it ran using a little diesel from my car mixed with a few drips of methanol. Throttle spring broke and the flames from the exhaust were about 4 inches long but it sounds healthy enough. As for the radio gear I'm afraid I don't have a clue. Have managed to get the rudder
    nozzle
    gear to move using 6 volt battery, but all the connecting wires are missing. Lots of wood inside that needs attention, seems a bit too soft. Cheers Colin.
    9 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mahogany in Scale
    Well Martin, its their loss. I try to make everything except the electrics. I suppose I'm lucky in being a retired prototype engineer, with my own machines and space to work. These days I am restoring more than building, I find it more challenging. Spotted a vintage boat in antique shop today, it had diesel marine power and valve and relay control system with a strange adjustable korts
    nozzle
    arrangement. I am trying to get the wife to let me buy it. Cheers Colin.
    9 months ago by Colin H
    Response
    Painting.
    Evenin' Neville, For a first attempt spraying that's damn goodπŸ‘ I prefer to use a 0.8mm
    nozzle
    for 'big' areas such as hulls. 0.5 for the 'fine' stuff, e.. cabins and fittings, which I still need to practice! Will need it when I come to the cammo pattern for PT109. Practice makes perfect they say! Basic rules (THEY also say😁) are- Paint consistency should remind you of milk (no cream!), Don't get to close, Don't move too slow! Keep up the good workπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Painting.
    Hi Doug. Thanks. You are right about the first aid. Clumsy. Good that my wife is a nurse me thinks.πŸ˜† No. This is my first attempt at spraying anything like this. That is why I ask a lot of questions. I try to build up knowledge and the courage to have a go. I was lucky this time, so far anyway. it is not perfect by any stretch, nothing like yours, but I am relatively happy with it. Takes quite a while with a 0.5mm
    nozzle
    but once you get going, you soon learn that the paint does not go on too thick so the chances of it running are less, I think.
    10 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Response
    Emerald - ''Round the Word'' ocean racing yacht.
    Auto Bailout Modification. 1. I drilled small holes in the lower corners of the cockpit wells, opposite each other. These were then connected together with some small brass tube. This was to allow the water to flow from the front cockpit to the rear cockpit. (See pictures 1 and 2). 2. Two more holes were drilled in the rear cockpit, in the outer corners further aft. these were fitted with brass tube stubs. These were to take the plastic tube, which runs to the
    nozzle
    s fitted into the hull (see picture 3 and 4). 3. To ensure the water would not flow into the boat, while stationary, the tubes were run through small eyelets on the under side of the deck(see picture 5). 4. Small holes were drilled in the hull and brass tubes were cut and bent, so that they would pass down through the hole in the hull, and lay flush against the hull, with the opening facing aft(see picture 6 and 9). 5. On the outer hull, the tube is built up, and covered in a cone shape, so the tube opening is the widest part of the cone and flush( see picture 7 & 8). 6. When the tubes are fitted to the stubs on the aft cockpit, and the cockpit secured in the yacht, the bale out is complete. Principle: While the boat is still and on an even keel, the cockpit floor is above the waterline, the tubes raise up to the deck level which prevents the water from flowing up and into the yacht. When the yacht starts to move under sail, the water flowing over the outlet
    nozzle
    is forced out by the cone, and creates a small vacuum at the
    nozzle
    opening, which draws any water in the cockpit through the tube and out through the
    nozzle
    . During a gust or strong winds, the yacht will heel over more. This will bring all the cockpit water to the lower side bailout tube, and be drawn out by the vacuum. When the yacht slows, and becomes even keeled, the cockpit will have been emptied. During heavy gusts, I found that the yacht will heel excessively, and if the waves are high enough, the cockpit will take some water over the deck. This is why I fitted the bailout device. So after a long sail in heavy weather, a long cruise back to shore on a broad reach and more even keel, will ensure the cockpit is dry. Happy Cruising
    10 months ago by East-RN
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    Yep, otherwise known as a 'Jockstrap' 😲 SC is too sweet for me, and prefer V&T to G&T. Can't get the smell of gin passed me sch
    nozzle
    😑 Pims #1 is also good. Tally Ho chaps! Temp here has collapsed 10°C again, cloudy and rainy. Expecting 37°C again at end of the week though, Phew!! GWS to Chris, cheers, Doug
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Booster
    nozzle
    My suggestion would be to contact the Kehrer shop directly. They are most likely to answer any of your queries. Looking at the booster
    nozzle
    it looks like a circular section squeezed into a smaller square with the cross fins to straighten out the jet thrust.
    11 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Booster
    nozzle
    Hello! I would like to get some information about the booster
    nozzle
    s. (https://www.kehrer-modellbau.de/en/kmb-jet28/jet-drives/kmb-jet28-rev.-3-with-booster-
    nozzle
    ) If I don't want to steer at all, is it better to install one of these instead of the round ones? Are they only additional
    nozzle
    s? Why are they square shaped? Thanks!!πŸ‘
    11 months ago by yiyo94
    Blog
    54 year old Crash Tender
    I would like first to say that this is NOT a restoration. It has always been mine and followed me around all those years, been used extensively on Oyster beds on the Essex coast and Valentine's Park in Ilford, Essex...even the great Victoria Park, of which my Granddad was a founder member. It has eaten its way through lantern batteries out of number which my Dad, who was in the business could magic from thin air. There was always a nook in the boot of the Triumph Town and Country saloon and then the Austin Westminster for another new lantern battery, which the Taycol would destroy in about 20 intermittent minutes of left, centre, right, centre from the REP single channel gear. How I wish I still had that, but it was stolen. The REP, that is, the Taycol remains, restored and cleaned and like new again waiting to go back in the boat. I finally decided I should finish it. My wife bought me a set of white metal fittings by Yeoman out of IP Engineering, so I have no excuse. Not that I need one. It has suffered a bit over that half a century, losing odd panels, but they are easily remade and replaced. First, I had to clean out the insides of the detritus and loft life of decades. Vacuuming, scraping with a pointy thing and brushing with a stiff brush, followed by more vacuuming using a clever attachment that my dear wife thought might be useful and it was, being at least a dozen stiff, but small diameter tubes poking out of the end of a
    nozzle
    . It both pokes and nudges the old dirt and dust and sucks it away. After that the old thin mahogany deck planks, my friend thought to add in the late 60s were removed and saved where salvageable as I quite like them for trim on other boats. The deck was rather brutalised with a coarse rasp and any loose nails punched back in flush or slightly below. Then some way too old, but still good, epoxy (WEST) was used to slar all over the decks and most of the insides, even some of the cabin sides. That will be finished before dark today. I can hardly believe the epoxy still works, but it does, perfectly and so is pressed into use. In this warm weather it set very quickly. I did my usual trick of squeegeeing it on into the grain with an old credit card or Gummi, which is a sample block of silicon. Styrene will also do. I use some spare 2mm stuff I was given (that guy at IP Engineering again). The roofs had already been corrected the other evening and heavily cellulose sanding sealed. The forward cabin removeable roof was unwarped by having a tight fitting diagonal piece of pear pressed in under the top skin and glued. The new hatch on that roof was made and the shape of the roof and hatch runners changed slightly, as per drawings from this site. Here are pics. of the work today. The above resinning, the remade cabin panels a new wheelhouse bulkhead and the tow hook base panel, finally a new aft cockpit rear coaming which it never had but should have. Cheers, Martin
    11 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    Fairmount Alpine - TUG!
    yes also building one A lot of work to complete yet. Fitted with 2x mfa 6/1 motors and bow thruster ,kort
    nozzle
    , becker rudders,all windows fitted with individual glazing a lot of time consuming, still a lot to do
    1 year ago by thepirate
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Boatshed, the Germans have a saying / proverb "Übung macht den Meister"! = 'Practise makes the master' or Practise makes perfect! Basic reasons for runs are- 1) spraying too close and 2) moving the
    nozzle
    too slow, Both resulting in a heavy coat that can't support it's own weight! Also trying to put another coat on before the previous one is fully dry and hard. Like I said; Patience is the main secret ingredient πŸ˜‰ Cheap cans spit, quality cans don't! The ones I use, esp. the K Series for cars, come with a selection of colour coded
    nozzle
    s for Small areas cone, Medium to large cone and a large area fan shape. Mostly I use the medium
    nozzle
    . Small one if 'touch-ups' are needed 😲They
    nozzle
    s also fit DIY shop cans 😊 Start spraying beyond the object and carry on at an even pace beyond the other end. Go back in a slightly overlapping stripe until there's an even THIN coat all over. Then - FIND SOMETHING ELSE TO DO FOR A HALF HOUR OR SO!! It's like the old lady in Brooklyn who asked a Cop 'How do I get to Carnegie Hall'? Cop's answer "Practise lady, practise" 😁 BTW: shaking a good bit longer and heating the can in hot water (to increase the pressure!) can sometimes help with the 'spitting'.πŸ‘
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Boatshed, Know what you mean about brushing and brushes! You CAN achieve the same effect with brushes, but it takes much longer, with much more flattening in between coats. So much more 'secret ingredient is needed! Brushes from DIY shops, and most model shops, you can forget πŸ€” too synthetic, too coarse and too prone to shedding hairs. 😑 For tiny detailing work, esp on Plastic Magic projects, I went to an art supplies store! Prompted by the GF who is into oil and water colour painting! There you will find a great selection of very fine real hair brushes in sizes from 'Help I can't see it'! to about 1" flat, used for applying 'washes' πŸ˜‰ Not cheap, but quality never is! For example; I'm using a 1/4" flat camel hair brush for renovating the wood decks of my Graf Spee and HMS Belfast with sealer and satin varnish from the Lord nelson range. Will also apply some Jotica Oak stain to dampen the bright colour a bit. For the pinstripe / Boot Topping on the Sea Scout I'm 'Going for Gold', to be applied with the finest airbrush
    nozzle
    I have and using Tamiya masking tape to get a good clean edge. hardest part will be getting the tape on right 😲 Hope I don't mess up what I have already achieved! Cheers Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Command Boat 90
    I tried one of these but couldn't get it to reverse the boat. Possibly not got the correct set up for the jet
    nozzle
    . it pushed a 30 inch fiber glass fast patrol boat very well, might try to sort outlet to give better control. You've raised my interest again thanks, Colin.
    1 year ago by Colin H
    Response
    Hovercraft
    One of our members used a couple of old drone bits to make a twin prop version with steerable
    nozzle
    s. Worked OK but very twitch as only a small craft like yours and the motors were powerful.
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Response
    robbe neptun tug boat
    Hi Nutrunner, It's a great little tug, good response from the kort
    nozzle
    ! I built one over 30 yrs ago! Good memories! I used a 7.2 volt NiCad back then. It ran for hours on one battery!
    1 year ago by figtree7nts
    Response
    Al KHUBAR 2
    Nice jobπŸ‘πŸ‘ BTW: the
    nozzle
    s are Korts! Kort Propulsion Co Ltd, The Boat House, 20 High Street, Erith, Kent DA8 1QY, United Kingdom http://www.kortpropulsion.com/products/kort-
    nozzle
    s Merry Christmas, CU next year, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    12v esc for trolling motor build
    Interesting project. Difficult to give advice on the info available. Looks like a steerable powered
    nozzle
    at the rear but what motor is it and what are the specs? An Esc does all the hard work and converts the rx pulses into usable power. I have arduinos and they can be programmed to control the power and rotation of a motor but would need additional high power Mosfets as well as other circuitry to buffer the unit from the output. If you are really into arduinos then a walk in the park but I believe an ESC would possibly be more robust and waterproof. It would be good if you were to post a build blog of your progress as the subject is certainly different to any models we have seen to-date. Good luck with the build
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Blog
    Fairplay V (Hegi) rebuild / refit
    Today my Fleabay find arrived in a big box: O dear... ...Nothing wrong with the new hull, paperwork consists of some printed scans with the main drawing in just A3 format. That drawing doen't show any measurements, but partnumbers. The superstructure and wheelhouse are... well, they show 'some' patina. (cough) Since there are no other drawings of the used parts everything must be expanded to the correct size, and then made/build. Thinking about using thick foam sheet material for frames and ABS sheet for the deck, so I can speed up the process a bit. (not having to paint any wooden parts, and use epoxy for bonding) Thing is tough, I need to decide which engine, propellor, short
    nozzle
    and battery combination will be good. (another tread over here) Let's hope that hull is as good as it looks once I'm trimming off the excessive material... it might have become brittle over the years. The plan is - as soon as the hull, deck & hardware are done - get her on the water with the old wheelhouse. Meanwhile I can build a new one using 0.2 and 0.5mm ABS sheet.
    2 years ago by Radiosailor
    Forum
    Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model
    I recently bought a on Ebay 'stranded' vintage harbourtug which will be fully rebuild. (I actually bought a NOS hull, and old - but good build - superstructure and all the deckgear & fittings. Except for some essential parts... There's no kort
    nozzle
    /rudder and propellor. I would like to know what size of
    nozzle
    and propdiameter I should mount. Originally it was designed with a steering
    nozzle
    /rudder, but the only item which comes close is the fixed
    nozzle
    as used on the Robbe Happy Hunter salvage tug model.(which has twin
    nozzle
    s) That
    nozzle
    would be fixed with a seperate rudder for steering. What would you advise? What alternatives are available? (Making a proper
    nozzle
    myself which actually works and looks to scale is out of the question.) Attached three photos: one showing original (steering
    nozzle
    ) and teh other with this Happy Hunter fixed
    nozzle
    , and te drawing showing the design.
    2 years ago by Radiosailor
    Forum
    Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model
    Hi Radiosailor I was not familiar with the model so have just searched. The Tug forum http://modeltugforum.com/ has an article by a member who did some mods. if you register you can see the pics and ask for advice. Regarding fixed or steerable
    nozzle
    s they both work better than a standard prop. For maximum effect the steerable works best and this will certainly be the case with a single prop. I have had both types on tugs but mine were twin screw and I could turn both on the spot with independent motor control. From the motors you have I suspect the Xdrive 555 may have the best torque which as Doug said is best for Tugs. There are several suppliers but without knowing any measurements it's difficult to point you to a specific site. It should make into a nice model and will certainly look the part on the water. If you look on Model Slipiway's web site http://www.modelslipway.com/ they have a kit Al Khubar and AZIZ which are twin Kort. There are links to build blogs for the AZIZ which may be useful. Model Boats and MMI also had featured articles on builds for Al Khubar.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Propulsion Hegi Revell Fairplay V tug model
    Hi, I can't profess to be a Tug expert but I believe the general rule is 'Low revs & Hi Torque'. I hope one of the tug fans here will pick up this thread. Also this forum might be useful to you; a discussion on kort
    nozzle
    s & tugs 'Fixed or steerable'. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1536288-Steerable-kort-
    nozzle
    -vs-fixed-kort-and-rudder Good luck, let us know how it goes. Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    3d printing
    Try something different day at work on Friday so signed up for the 3D printing workshop ,we had to design something and then print the first attempt was a bit rough, scaled it down worked fine did 4 prints in silver changed to a different PLA ,
    nozzle
    size and multiple print not exactly what everyone else was printing but my choice seemed more useful than a mobile phone holder
    2 years ago by marky
    Forum
    Sprinkles
    Sprinkles, a scratch built, U.S. Coast Guard PWB (patrol boat waterways) is just about done. Operating features include; working running and searchlight, rotating radar and blue emergency beacon. Water monitor on cabin roof can traverse and squirt water 10-15 feet. Bending tubing for the water monitor was difficult, it is actually a composite of several types.
    nozzle
    was made on Unimat. Pump is a Sig "gas passer" Propulsion is from two 600 size motors geared 2:1 with 9.6V Nimh and 3 blade 45mm Graupner props
    2 years ago by Commodore-H
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) Sprinkles
    Sprinkles is a scratch built U.S. Coast Guard PWB, patrol waterways boat. Operating features include; searchlight and running lights, revolving blue emergency light, rotating radar, and a water monitor that fires 10-15 feet and can I studied various styles of water monitors and finally decided on one that is a composite of several types. Bending the tubing was difficult,
    nozzle
    was made on Unimat. Power is from Sig "gas passer" pump. I purchased the rotating beacon on ebay and power is from 5V voltage regulator. (Motor: Electrofly) (ESC: Viper) (10/10)
    2 years ago by Commodore-H
    Forum
    Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
    HI Neville, why did i move the bridge, Ha. the main reason was to make my boat different to the standard, i cut away the staircase and a small part of the railing, re-drilled the mounting holes and basically that was it, i have 4 of these, so each one is different, none except Richardson have the stairs, the first i re-painted in Smit colors, second was like the first but only removed the name and re-named as itchen Marine Wyforce, using vinyl decals i had made, the third re-painted in Wiesmuller colours, but with the funnels re-located on top of the air intakes with a firefighting bridge across with 2 fire
    nozzle
    s, they all get a lot of interest, cost very little to alter but are different. Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Response
    Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat
    So is one of mine. Depends mainly on whether the paint reservoir is a little cup above or a big bottle below the valves and
    nozzle
    = mini spray gun! The former is for the tiny stuff and detailing (bits 'n pieces), with
    nozzle
    s of (Odd! something went missing on posting???) ...
    nozzle
    s of (Same phenomena again!!??) ... I give up, Good night πŸ€”
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Jet Sprint Boat
    Hi Phil I have no experience with three point hydro so any suggestions / observations are not based on personal experience. Is it always the same sponson that lifts? With three points of contact any slight misalignment or weight difference could result in one point digging in and raising the other. This would be made worse if the thrust
    nozzle
    was slightly misaligned. As Doug has pointed out the full size were difficult to keep in a straight line. You haven't said but I assume you correct the lift by turning the
    nozzle
    . When I used to fly model planes I used to apply slight right rudder to keep the model straight on take-off and I wonder if you could apply a similar principle to your model. This is real cutting edge modelling and I look forward to hearing how you progress. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    Jet Sprint Boat
    Thanks Dave,no the dinghy had no torque reaction on a steady throttle just when the engine was "blipped".I started with a butterfly flap in the
    nozzle
    which worked ok,replaced that with a steerable tube beyond the
    nozzle
    which also worked ok and finally with the
    nozzle
    itself steerable mounted on a flexible pipe which did not work (the flexible pipe was far from flexible when full of water at pressure!).The question was because I have built a three point hydro with a strimmer engine which becomes two point due to torque,lifting one sponson as the throttle is opened.
    2 years ago by philpjuk
    Response
    Jet Sprint Boat
    Hi Phil and Doug There is no noticeable tork effect when using a
    nozzle
    . My
    nozzle
    s use a steerable tube at the
    nozzle
    exit to direct the jet port or starboad. Reverse is achieved by using a bucket effect over the end of the steering
    nozzle
    . However the use of a steerable flap inside the tube may have this effect. if you had a banking effect with the dingy you can expect the same with this model.
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    Jet Sprint Boat
    Hi Phil, I'm not sure but I think the 'bundling' effect of the tube and venturi effect of the
    nozzle
    could damp the torque effect to some extent at least πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairplay X - Plastic Magic! :-)
    Hi figtree, to transliterate what the locals here would say 'Me goes it good'!πŸ‘ I'm busily sorting out loads of bits and pieces and materials for various projects which have arrived from China, Holland and Germany this week, and find room in the 'kitchen workshop' 😲 Just ordered a new fine
    nozzle
    (0.2mm) airbrush and compressor for detail and weathering effects! At the weekend the Sea Scout repaint is on the agenda, or maybe the brushless fit first!? it's all go folks πŸ˜‰ Trust all is well with you. Cheers Doug 😎 PS Followed the Comey saga on CNN yesterday with great interest. He struck me as much more believable than TrumpπŸ‘
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Glue Applicator
    Hi Joe Did some more research and found a video on the Deluxe Site https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/15-pin-flow-applicator-5060243900456.html This really is a very fine
    nozzle
    dispenser and uses capillary action to deliver just the right amount of solvent to produce an invisible joint. They also recommend using for superglue accelerator by applying after the joint is closed to assist the setting process. Much neater way than brush or spray and will not result in marks on the surrounding area. For anyone building fine scale models a really good aid. Cheers Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Finishing
    Hi Martin, Bin round the Talisker ? πŸ˜‰ @stwdv; ignore what comes next, go to the last paragraph 😎 The scale effect (as I understand it) has nothing or little to do with shine! It refers to lightening / fading the colour to fool the brain into thinking an object is further away than it is, and therefore think it is larger. Look at any landscape photo or 'in real', hills or forests further away look lighter or more grey than the green ones in the foreground. There are pros and cons to both as Dave says. Cellulose is history, except from some nitrated cellulose solvents. in the car restoring days of my youth I remember getting crinkling if I used cellulose thinners from a different manufacturer than the paint 😑 @stwdv: if you do it veeeery carefully in very very thin misted layers (barely wet) you CAN put put a different paint on others BUT you need flat of and prime the old paint first. Pay a bit more for your primer (universal types) and ensure that the coating is absolutely complete and totally dry and hardened. Some combinations work better than others. But essentially it is better not to mix and match. it's essenentially the thinners that does the damage, less is more sometimes! Try to avoid cheap aerosols, paying a bit more avoids a lot of heartache and extra work, or throwing things in the bin 😑 They tend to have a fairly wide spread on the
    nozzle
    s which wastes a lot of paint through over-spray. They also tend to be a bit thick and difficult to control the flow which can cause 'orange peeling or even runs and 'splodges' if the spray stutters. To counteract this one has to spray thinner; i.e. back off more from the object - which causes more over-spray. πŸ€” The little spray cans made for modellers are much better than this in all respects than the cheap jumbo cans from the hardware store. Get a decent air brush for the big bits, then you can control the paint viscosity, flow and size and shape of the spray cone. takes a bit of practice but is worth it if you intend to build more models. But I suspect you wanted tips on the preparation! So let's cut to the chaseπŸ˜‰ Sanding and filling are the buzz words. Checking the surface very lightly with your fingertips is much more sensitive and accurate than relying on your eyes. πŸ€“ When you think you got it right put on a THIN coat of primer (matched type to the finishing paint!) and you will soon see the spots you missed! So back to the filling and sanding. Use a very fine filler at this stage. Prime again and flat it off with 240 to 400 wet'ndry. Take off the residue with a damp sponge and dry!!! Go round this loop a few times and when eyes and finger tips agree you are ready for the finishing colour coats. Thin, let dry. Check for blemishes. Fix if necessary, flat off -> next coat. ALWAYS take note of paint can drying / hardening notes. Don't rush or you'll end up doing it again πŸ˜‰ Hope this helps, bon chance mon ami 😎Doug PS my larger model (mostly warships!) I use resin based paints in half litre cans from the DIY shops and an airbrush. They are hard wearing, come in all colours (RAL codes) and finishes and are easy to mix and thin with turps or white spirit. They take the enamel for detailing with no problems. Snags: take longer to dry, but they are hard wearing and cheaper than millions of 14ml cans πŸ‘
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Using old motors
    Wow! A real collector πŸ‘ Now that I have a Watt-meter I shall run some tests on my Target (after restoration!), test the reversing circuit and put it back in my Sea Scout where it belongs. The Sea Scout looks a bit sad after 25 years on the shelf. πŸ€” She also has the commonly reported problem of de-lamination on the transom, also the Cabin roof curls at the edges. Any tips how to repair and cure this are very welcome. I'm thinking of stripping and varnishing her. What do you recommend? The grey lump half hidden in the cockpit is a siren, the servo with 2 micro switches is for this and the nav lights. Second servo is to swivel a water jet
    nozzle
    , pump is the black conglomerate at the rear of the engine compartment. A horrible piston pump but it worked,enough to surprise small boys who got too close πŸ˜‰ Rudder servo on it's side, like everyone else has had to do. Current motor Decaperm, performance Sedate πŸ€” Cheers 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Counter Rotating Props
    Simple answer is no as they use a totally different way to provide power. Water jets suck water into a tube and eject a high pressure jet of water. My water jets have a steerable
    nozzle
    to control the direction of the water jet and a bucket to reverse the flow for reverse, exactly the same as on the full size Shannon lifeboat. You will see a much greater speed using water jets as they are optimised for high performance at the design stage. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Small plastic joinery glue
    Yes it's in a a small double sided by side tube with a long mixer
    nozzle
    u should have a gun to push it out but we just use 2 round dowels u should be able to get it on eBay to
    2 years ago by Hybrid
    Blog
    The fire monitors
    The fire monitors are supplied in three pieces that need to be assembled, there is the pedestal, the main body & handles and the discharge
    nozzle
    (my descriptions, they may have a proper technical term!) πŸ€” Before assembly all the parts were filed smooth, and cleaned with my β€˜suede shoe brush’ to remove flash and blemishes and to give a key for subsequent paint. I felt that just glueing the main body and discharge
    nozzle
    together would not be sufficiently strong so I bored out the centre of each and inserted a 4mm threaded stud to pull them together, some threadlock on the stud and then some filler at the join produced a good result. The hole at the end of the discharge
    nozzle
    also looks more authentic. The pedestal was also bored out at both ends, the lower end for a 3mm stud and for a 2mm threaded stud at the upper end. The arms need to be carefully bent to the correct angle, you only really get one attempt at this as the white metal will not stand repeated bending and will probably fracture quite easily. I also added a small 'lever arm' feature to the bottom of the pedestal that appears in some photographs of the real item, this was finished with a hand turned brass knob. The finished parts were sprayed with one coat of grey etch primer, a coat of white primer and finally two coats of Halfords β€˜Toolbox Red’ acrylic gloss. I assembled the two pieces when the paint had hardened and put a dab of red paint on the top fixing nut. The handle ends will also be detailed with some black paint or perhaps some black heat shrink.
    2 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Aerokits Fast Patrol Boat
    Hi, it's not a proper monitor on the cabin roof, but the spray
    nozzle
    from an air freshener the type that are battery powered and spray one burst every 15 minutes. I suppose that you could attach a small pipe to it and make it into a working monitor if you wanted too. Hope that this helps Graham.πŸ‘
    2 years ago by jelley_baby


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