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    Blog
    Old Robbe Acapulco
    Hi y’all. I made a trade with a fellow modeler here in Texas last year for a Robbe Acapulco. Since I finished the Neptune, I thought I’d build the Acapulco, then take a break from building for a couple of months...give me time to do some model maintenance and actually play with the doggone boats😁 This is an original Robbe kit from some time ago, both the kit and fittings box state β€œmade in West Germany”. I’m using a 35x30 1700kv
    outrunner
    for power, I used this same setup on an old Imex Taurus that I converted to a β€œpolice boat” for my daughter, Grace. The Acapulco and the Taurus are roughly the same size, although I think the Acapulco might end up a heavier boat. Anyway, nothing really hard about the build itself, as the Acapulco is a fairly simple boat to get running, just a lot of painting and railing to solder up. I have a few pics of my progress so far.
    17 days ago by Cashrc
    Blog
    The motor cover.
    I want to keep the motor cover as compact and in proportion as much as possible so I drew up a design to visualise it and get some practical working dimensions, it also needs to enclose the prop shaft and coupling, and the MT60 connection for the motor so there will not be very much free air space inside. Because of this the motor cover will need some ventilation as the brushless
    outrunner
    motor can’t be water cooled and I don’t want to fit a fan, so the side panels of the box will need some gauze covered slots so that any heat generated can escape, assisted (perhaps) by the rotation of the motors outer β€˜rotor’ creating some air movement. I don’t intend to run this boat very fast so I’m hoping that the motor will not get too hot anyway🀞. I transferred the dimensions of the side panels from my drawings to some 1.5mm obeche panels and cut the side pieces to size and cut out the ventilation slots, some framing pieces and cross braces were fitted internally and the whole assembly glued and clamped together. Additional framing was added to support the part that covers the shaft and coupling and obeche panels applied to these. Some finishing details were applied around the base and the top to improve the appearance. The internal framing will later incorporate some small cylindrical neodymium magnets that will hold the motor enclosure down on the deck, I’ll fit these later when the deck floor has been fitted. The mesh is some of the stainless steel mesh that I had used in the water pickup tube on my RAF Crash Rescue Tender hoses, and this was cut to size and epoxied in place. The completed enclosure was finished with the same Teak stain as the rest of the boat. Next up will be an enclosure at the rear to conceal the control electronics.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    Thanks for your reply. I am more of a speed freak. I love the Vosper /MTB's style hulls as you can really push them to there limits, as I can also with the deep V huntsman style hulls. My Proboat Miss Geico catamaran I can run flat out even on turns. But am unsure about fitting an out runner, I have scaled down the Crash Tender to 28" and have just put in a small
    outrunner
    but very apprehensive of running her. This is because i'm unsure of overheating and catching fire. Silly rally as she is a fireboat. But as you have one in your Crash Tender with no problems, then I will finish her off and give her a run. Thanks for your help. I am watching this build as eagerly as I did your wonderful Crash Tender. I cannot wait to see the en result and some video of her on water. I'm sad I wasn't able to get along to the show this weekend.
    3 months ago by BOATSHED
    Response
    Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
    How does an
    outrunner
    fare with heat when closed in? The one you are using is goint to be even more closed in as it has a box built round it. I have been reluctant with an
    outrunner
    in a hull for this reason. I have a Miss Geico with an inrunner which is fine as it has a water jacket.
    3 months ago by BOATSHED
    Media
    Fast Patrol Boat
    Just renovated this one not been used of several years, I need to get back into sailing, was running on a 400 size motor now on a
    outrunner
    Mystery D2632-100 and it seems to go very well, will post it on the water later.
    4 months ago by jelley_baby
    Response
    Cooling coil
    An
    outrunner
    is better for this type of boat as it is more torquey. if cooling is needed (and it may not) just use a proper water cooled motor mount. Chris
    4 months ago by ChrisF
    Response
    Cooling coil
    Hi Dave, the whole point here is that it's an
    outrunner
    motor so if the coil touches the rotating case things'll get very interesting and exciting 😲 Cheers, Doug 😎
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Cooling coil
    You are correct the coils goes over the body of the
    outrunner
    motor but does not touch. it was initially formed around a metal tube but when mounted on the motor mount there is a 'cereal packet cardboard' thickness of clearance around the body of the motor. Steve
    4 months ago by steve-d
    Blog
    New bits
    Right, just been given some nice bits. Brushless
    outrunner
    FUSION 3535/05 1500kv ESC Top Edge 60A water cooled SC060B Plus a coupling. So now to go shopping. Which make of Lipo3 and from where? What type and size of brass prop? Where to buy silicon wires and the fancy gold terminals? Steve
    4 months ago by steve-d
    Forum
    Got the bits, now what?...
    I do have an inrunner, Doug, for my CNC outboard, but the one we're talking about here is an
    outrunner
    as it's the outside that spins and the innards which are bolted to a thick bit of aluminium. You can get the idea from the picture. My dear bride has just bought me an early Christmas present of a new camera which, I hope will take pictures clearly when the sun isn't shining. So my pics should improve soon. Martin
    7 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Got the bits, now what?...
    Never erd of 'em Mate! So you've got an inrunner, lotsa revs but maybe less torque than an 'equivalent' size
    outrunner
    . Be very interested to see your running results. Cheers mate, Doug
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Darby One Design hydro...
    Hi all, here's progress on the Darby One Design. Got these pics just before it started peeing down, so no Chris-Craft pics. Fitted a brushless
    outrunner
    I found in a box. Might work, might not... Home made prop shaft/tube, home made off-set rudder. Planked balsa top cover to keep weight down. 1/6th scale 26"long, 10" beam. Thick grey cellulose primer to act as a light filler for scratches, etc. Martin
    7 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY
    Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor β€œsqueal” and β€œstutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV
    outrunner
    motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected it has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an
    outrunner
    layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to β€œsoft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. in spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.
    7 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    motor sizeing
    Hi chaps jim dogge here, im just about ready to fit out my wave princess with some sort of motor and bits. I have allsorts of
    outrunner
    s and ESC to match aeroplanes but havent a clue as to where to start. A 1.5 diesel, whats that equivalant too is the weight thrust formula the same for boats. l would prefer to stay with out runners, the cooling aspect is no problem l did it for a living. a prop size how is that worked out for a boat.
    7 months ago by jimdogge
    Directory
    (Other) Avanti
    ARTR fast electric by Thunder Tiger. Deep vee powered by Ripper Brushless
    outrunner
    . Will reach 30mph+ when flat out. I replaced the radio that came with the boat with stick operated Futaba T2HR as I preferred "stick" to wheel for sailing fast boats. initial problem was slight leak where stern tube passes through the transom but soon fixed it with epoxy. Electrics are in a box at the stern which is appears to be water resistant. Though not for a raw beginner, it is great for a second boat especially if someone is hoping to move on to a 6S . if not , it makes a good all rounder and is ideal for club fast electric racing and it performs well when doing tight turns. Boaty (Motor: OBL29/19-15M) (ESC: BLC-40M) (9/10)
    7 months ago by boaty
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Been researching the squeal and stutter on other websites and conclude RFI is probably not the major contributor. Others attribute it to a mismatch in the ESC / motor timing, which seems more likely. Whatever caused it, resulted in the affected motor failing. Which came first, the failure causing squeal or squeal causing failure is open to conjecture. Much to my surprise the manufacturer has decided to replace the motor under warranty. In the meantime, the motors I had planned to use originally (2800kV
    outrunner
    s) came into stock, so purchased a couple. Until now have had to use the ESC default settings as did not have a programming card. This also arrived with the motors. Following advice from another contributor reprogrammed the motors with β€œsofter” start and acceleration settings. Fitted and tried the new motors and settings. On the bench, the squeal and stutter have almost gone. The motors are also more tractable. As the brushless motors are now going to be used for high speed operation only, with slow on the centre brushed, thought could simplify the controls by putting the brushless ESCs on one control system using a β€œY” lead. However, this introduced inconsistent and erratic motor responses. Reverted to the two previous separate controls, port and starboard. On the water the performance is fine, as is the reliability. The 2S battery gave almost half an hours operation. The bow lifts nicely with both 2 & 3 S Batteries; plenty of spray. Hopefully resembling a 50 knot vessel! Another adjustment is needed to the transom flaps to try to hold the bow down later as she accelerates. Feeling now to finally be making progress with this model. The squeal has not gone, nor has erratic motor operation. The squeal is high pitched screech, rather like treading on a budgie! When it happens, bringing the control back to neutral and advancing it again almost always overcomes it. The erratic operation happens also when starting and is rather like the motors are not getting a signal to react to the control. Again, returning through neutral briefly seems to correct it. The revised motors and ESCs have increased the weight to 6lbs for the hull including all running gear, excluding batteries and superstructure. Whilst still trying to control weight have concluded this figure is satisfactory as the performance certainly is.
    8 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    PT 109 upgrade?
    My 1/24th Schnellboot 5' was running on 3x850 mfa motors changed to 1 x Turnigy 3648 1450kv
    outrunner
    operating on a 3s lipo. . more than enough speed even with the outer props just freewheeling
    8 months ago by camyaj
    Forum
    PT 109 upgrade?
    Hi Ira, Aha! the 1/20 version. So she has some carrying capacityπŸ‘ Here's a recommendation from RC Groups- "I have a 1/20th Elco hull based on a John Drain keel and bulkhead kit from Australia. it is powered by three 3548 770KV
    outrunner
    s turning 1 1/2" three blade props, three separate ESC's, and three 3500mah 4 cell LiPo battery's. Running weight is 16 lbs., capable of speed far in excess of scale, run time is great. " Sounds good to me! For reference; I have a 28" version, being renovated and upgraded. it has 2x 2832 brushless driving 3 blade 35mm props. Guy I bought it from said it was too fast for him! I'm considering adding an independent centre motor, a simple brushed job for slow cruising / manoeuvring. So the above seems reasonable for a 4footer of 16lb. Cheers, Doug 😎
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    Thanks, Doug, the blue brushless is held by something that grabs the smaller cylinder and the rest spins round, ergo,
    outrunner
    . if I ever make a lightweight I might try one in there. The brushed 400 I will try in the Sea Hornet. Gotta be worth a try. And that Simprop should be OK for it, n'est ce pas? What concerns me is the lack of sizes available in props. They all seem to start at 35mm which might be a little too hefty for the 400, but I can't find a 30mm anywhere. I also found the Hornet II I carved a while back with a view to getting it scanned for frame sections, so that's another wee job to finish off. I am looking forward to doing that one. Cheers, Martin
    8 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Cheap motor for a quick fit, but what prop gents?...
    OK, found one, 'discontinued product' πŸ€” Seems Tower pro only make gas engines these days. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/towerpro-brushless-
    outrunner
    -2408-21.html Specs "TP 2408-21 The most widely used towerpro motor available today. the 2408-21T is often used in GWS (means Grand Wing System, USA apparently!) upgrades. Paired with just an 18A besc, this motor is an excellent and cheap way to upgrade small planes to brushless. An RD1047, RD9070 or 8040 size propeller are the best choice, with the RD9070 and 8040 giving the best thrust and amp draw balance. For 2-3 Li-Poly Cells (7.2-12.6V) 31 mm diameter x 62 mm length Maximum current: 13A Weight: 50.2 grams / 1.77 oz Comes with stick mount plastic frame Firewall mount capable Comes with two prop nuts and one washer 3mm shaft diameter 10mm x 10mm stick mount Kv: 1750 9 Stator Poles, 12 Magnets" So it's OK for a 3S LiPo, which will give about 19.400rpm OFF LOAD. Max current 13A ON LOAD. No way of finding the other little one without at least a hintπŸ€” Looks like an
    outrunner
    plane motor as well. Suck it and see! Probably similar specs to the Tower motor. The two brushed ESCs should be good for your Taycols as none of them should take much more than 10A or so. Use 15A fuses, as I have already fitted to your converter boards.πŸ˜‰ Bon chance mon ami, Cheers, Doug 😎 Re GWS; https://www.google.com/search?q=GWS+models&client=firefox-b&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=Yy9FOffyN9znOM%253A%252Cm55UYJTjtHfuaM%252C_&usg=AFrqEzdcX_L57leaM37UXLA9kg6sVLbSag&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiyo8mUnO_cAhUkB8AKHc_UDNEQ9QEwAnoECAYQBA#imgrc=Yy9FOffyN9znOM: Pic is a typical GWS small plane, called 'Slow Stick'. if I had one I would name it 'Spindle-shanks' 😁
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    outrunner
    Skimmer
    Q: What does one do when one reaches the age when hand/eye coordination falters and advancing macular degeneration results in your flying models, overloaded with tape BandAids and superglue, making unexpected 'arrivals'? A: Retrieve the 'innards' of the 'foamie', add a few sheets of balsa and build a maxi-size Skimmer a la Glynn Guest but x 1.4 to take the brushless
    outrunner
    rom the late 'Easy Star'! Help please ..... I only have a MP4 video clip of 170 Mb - how do I load that?
    9 months ago by Mzee
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    Read further down and he clarifies that. Apart from that you can regard all brushed motors for models as 'In-runners' if you will! BTW: your last video was interesting, as far as it goes, for those into breaking the model boat speed record or competitive racing. For me the the boats themselves are totally boring, but that's just me πŸ˜‰ I suspect that the majority of us here are more interested in scale modelling with a run time of more than 5 minutes. I believe Martin's planes are relatively small so I'm not sure if a small prop will be be a limiting factor. Choice will likely finally depend on the space available in the fuselage! Like I said 'Each to his own' πŸ‘ Anyway, I'm convinced; leave the in-runners to the car racing boysπŸ˜‰ I only have
    outrunner
    s anyway, even my Catalina arrived with two
    outrunner
    s!! Mus check the 'Flying Wing' again😲 Thanks for the heads up! 'Tempus fugit' and progress too! Cheers, Doug 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    sorry but most flying crash test models use
    outrunner
    s. The lack of torque of an inrunner means you have to use a very small diameter prop ( I am generalising ) so unless your going for an all out speed model use an
    outrunner
    . http://lmmac.net/i-c-to-electric-conversion-table/ As you can see an
    outrunner
    is shown as the representative motor. https://www.cmfhobbies.com/IC-Engine-to-Electric-motor-convertion/I205.htm Again generally out runners.
    9 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Spektrum, new, useless...
    Apropos 'Hairyplanes' Use an in Runner if you go brushless for a plane. Generally smaller and lighter than
    outrunner
    s, easier to mount, and you don't need the high torque of
    outrunner
    s like we do to get a heavy boat moving in the wet stuff πŸ‘ I have a styrene 'Flying Wing/Boat' in the cellar I haven't had the guts to try out yet! 😲 Wasn't rocket science to fix your TX, fault jumped out and bit me when I opened the case! Main thing; it won't now be wasted. 😎
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Longer run time
    Your question does not have simple answers have you used a watt meter to see the current your motor is drawing at full throttle? With any installation its a good idea to do that test since its a good way to match motor and prop. LiPo batteries have a better current delivery than lead acid BUT you do need to be careful about end voltages so as not to damage the battery. Many ESC have a voltage cut off built in to protect LiPo batteries it may be your hitting that limit with your lead acid battery. The simplest solution to your problem is to look at the Amp/hour rating of your existing battery and get something with a higher rating. Going LiPo can give a much higher rating with a LOT less weight. The downside being the need for a special charger and the need to be careful about storage and end point voltages. As to putting 2 batteries in series to get a higher voltage yes you can BUT increasing the voltage to a brushless motor requires you match the prop to the new voltage running on the existing prop will probably cook the motor. How hot is your brushless running now?
    outrunner
    s generally can swing a bigger prop than inrunners.
    10 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Right, gentlemen who know fings, here are shots of the wires I have. OK, I must have put the banana plugged wires in a box marked R/C Gear, I'm assuming, but the charger's wires mainly have brick red flat contact -containing plugs. However, none of my battery packs have those, they have the white things with two small round pins in 'em, one socket square, one round. The newest pack for binding duties has a little black jobby that fits the Rxs. Pictures included of all relevance. I tried to charge an old(ish) lead acid after making up a lead, but the charger put up a "Connection Break" legend on its screen. I assume that means, That one's f****d, mate. Fair enough, I thought it might be. But i still haven't worked out a lead to charge those green wrapped old NiMhs. I HAVE charged them before, because I have had two attempts at flying the aircraft. it went round in circles and then took a slate off my daughter's roof, proving that aircraft models really DO need insurance! Anyway, enclosed are three pics. The shot of a Lipo is to show that I do have such things, but that dates way back and although not damaged or bulged hasn't been charged while I've had it. it was sent to me with 2 small
    outrunner
    brushless jobbies and a couple of brushed ESCs as a thankyou for sending plywood to a part of Britain that the PO won't go to with biggish parcels. Finally....I have today received my FlySky RC set and guess what? it all works, perfectly, out of the box. it's PRE-BOUND! Whoopee do! it musdt be an upgrade as it came with a small Li-Po battery pack for the Tx. and a charge lead from USB to Tx. body. That's all great, but how do I know how long to charge it for? it currently has what looks like a full charge on it, judging by the brightness of the LEDs. Getting used to a passable impression of my son's old Subaru front wheel and tyre (complete with vented disc and caliper behind!) will take a while. I am guessing that pushing the throttle trigger forward is like a brake on a car. I assume on a boat it would be reverse? The instructions are not in any way exhaustive! But hey...on a tatty old Futaba servo it all worked a treat. Here's the pics of wires. Cheers, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    David Metcalfs Waveney - ''The Scout''
    For sale is my 1/12th scale model of the Waveney Lifeboat - "The Scout" Kit produced by David Metcalf. Built to a good standard with an array of working features: Working radar controlled through a voltage reducer Navigation lights, mast lights, front and rear searchlights, flashing blue light and well lights all controlled by an Action Electronics P62 quad switcher. The flashing effect of the blue light is controlled by an Action ElectronicsP73 multi flasher. Powered by two Turnigy 3542/5 1250kv brushless
    outrunner
    s controlled by two Fusion Hawk 60amp electronic speeed controllers. Fitted with Raboesch propshafts and 3 bladed brass left and right handed propellors. Batteries and radios are not included in the sale. The model is available for pick up only with cash on collection from Stafford ST16 which is approximately 1/2 mile from Junction 14 of the M6 motorway. Price Β£700 ovno
    11 months ago by Flack
    Forum
    Zing Ray
    Ok boys has anyone built this great mans hydroplane and either re engined or insralled a brushless
    outrunner
    . Bearing in mind that i am building this boat to operate at correct scale speed not bat out of hell speed. Correct acceleration and speed always enables the model to perform correctly during turns etc, anyhow. The only modification other than the powerplant is using a flex drive.
    10 months ago by Grumpy1949
    Response
    H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
    Hi Rowen, I have had water cooling on all my patrol boats running at 12Volts, whether brushed or now brushless. For the brushed motors I have used aluminium tube coils with water pickups between the propellers and rudders. I did try water jackets a couple of times but found too much friction loss and therefore lack of flow. For the newer brushless
    outrunner
    s I use a brass tube soldered to a brass plate across the front of the motor fitted between it and motor mounting bracket. I agree with Doug with regards to the disconnection of the red wires on the ESC's. This is now common practice, especially if you have an external receiver battery.
    1 year ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    Hello Canabus. Please can I take you up on the pdf files of the plans for my boat. I have an A0 printer so should be able to print them full size. I have looked all over for the originals without success. I am learning a lot as I go and wonder, looking back, if I have made a mistake. I bought the 3648 1450kv motor, yes, the beast. Just cannot help myself!!😁 Now that I understsnd these motors a lot more, I realise that it is an
    outrunner
    . Do you think I need water cooling and if yes, how is this done when the main outer can is rotating.πŸ˜ŠπŸ€” Thanks.
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Huntsman 31 motor &prop advice please
    Hi - I've got one of those and once I've progressed with some of my other builds I'm planning on replacing the old MFA 850 with a brushless. Being quite a heavy beast and wanting decent speed but not manic I'm looking at one of the Overlander 50 dia. brushless
    outrunner
    s which will provide the torque required and use a 45 or 50mm 3 blade prop. Definitely LiPos for me. The 7.3v lead acid was fine in the boat weightwise on the water but too heavy and unwieldy for moving around and launching and with LiPos you can easily up the volts without much increase in weight. Chris
    1 year ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Too Powerful Brushless ?
    Hi Graham If we are talking about the Graupner Brushless Speed ​​500 ECO no 7295 https://www.graupner.de/Brushless-Speed-500-ECO/7295/ then yes the Kv is 500 which equates to 7500 at 14.8v. it's 50mm x 80mm with a 6mm shaft so really a heavy duty motor and in a Aeronaut Queen 36" still much too big and powerful. You really need to resolve the drive train and shaft problems and this will be easier if you choose a motor of smaller diameter and power. A 36xx or very similar size motor at about 1000Kv or less (500Kv with 14.7v) will be ample. The prop should be less diameter than the motor. There are many examples of 36" model boats on this site and I do believe the majority of our members have used similar set ups, to those we have suggested, in their models with a large degree of success. It could be we are talking about a different motor as you refer to " the small
    outrunner
    motor". if so please post a link to a pic of the motor.
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Too Powerful Brushless ?
    Hi all, what do we all think of the Graupner 500 ECO? it only does 7500 rpm but high torque, about 1500 watts, 14.8 volts. The say it is especially built for boats. I would like to know your thoughts on the small
    outrunner
    motor? Regards Graham
    1 year ago by Traiderman
    Forum
    Too Powerful Brushless ?
    Graham - don't tell me you ran the boat at anything like full throttle. if so, it wouldn't just be the prop shaft that you'd have to worry about! if you did it must have been virtually uncontrollable! I take it you bought the boat with the motor already in it? Whatever, it couldn't really have been a worse choice! With such a high kv and being an inrunner (if I've got the right motor) it's really meant for a lighter, race type boat running on 2S to keep the revs down to a reasonable level. As you now know, for your type of boat you need a kv around 1000 or even a bit less as torque is what you need and also go for an
    outrunner
    . 3S or 4S is fine and if it is too fast limit the amount of throttle. Without seeing photos it's impossible to say if your existing prop shaft is up to the job but as you've removed it anyway and if you don't mind the expense I'd change it for one of the Raboesch maintenance free ones. I'm using these for my builds and my Fairey Swordsman at 33 inches is a similar size and weight. These are rated for 10k. and 15k. rpm, I've gone for the latter and in 5mm shaft size to be on the safe side. I doubt that a shorter prop shaft will be feasible as usually the motor is already pretty low in the boat and a shorter shaft will increase the angle and you don't want it too steep. Also you would have to redrill the hole for the different angle. What dia. is the existing prop shaft? The other thing you need to consider is the prop. What are you running at the moment? A photo of the boat would be good. Chris
    1 year ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Aerokits fire boat 35''
    Looking at the specs ROXXY BL
    outrunner
    4240/10, 980rpm / Volt, 130g For electric sailers up to 4500g Scale and sport models up to approx. 2900g. If you have the 34" Fire Boat then this is too big. Mark suggested above a 3542/1000 and I agree. The smaller model is very light with a small transom and I found it has tendency to lean under the tork effect of the prop. Turning had to be slow and gentle to avoid capsize. This is not such a problem on the 48" version. Props should be no greater in diameter than the motor and should be chosen to keep well within the motor and ESC ratings. A wattmeter will help you check this and a good rule of thumb is to run at about half max current for best results.
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Aerokits fire boat 35''
    Hi Kevin, I have had a lot of success with Tornado Thumper out runner motors paired with Fusion Hawk ESC. For a really exciting performance you could use a Tornado Thumper V3 4260/06 500KV - Brushless
    outrunner
    paired with a Fusion Hawk BL 60A HV N6~18/Li 2~6 ESC, however it would probably be a little less exciting and more appropriate given the flatness of the hull when the Crash tender is on the plane to use a Tornado Thumper V3 3542/05 1250KV - Brushless
    outrunner
    paired with the same speed controller. Motors are available at https://www.overlander.co.uk/motors/brushless-motors/
    outrunner
    -motors/tornado-thumper-v3-3542-05-1250kv-brushless-
    outrunner
    -rc-motor.html https://www.overlander.co.uk/motors/brushless-motors/
    outrunner
    -motors/tornado-thumper-v3-4260-06-500kv-brushless-
    outrunner
    -rc-motor.html and the speed controllers at: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/85116/ I appreciate they are not the cheapest of options but I have found their reliability to be second to none. Shaun
    1 year ago by Flack
    Forum
    motors
    hi just looking at some off my electric motors from my rc gliders and found a dymond gtx-4356v2/600kv
    outrunner
    . could i use this on my huntsman 31 if i can how would i cool it need to get this sorted
    1 year ago by pilot
    Forum
    motors
    No, that's less powerful than in Pilot's opening post and like his suggestion is an inrunner motor. The consensus is that a 50 mm diameter
    outrunner
    ( the first part of the model No.) is what is required for a big boat like the Huntsman. The second part of the No. is the length of the motor. That size plus a kv figure of around 700 to 1000 will provide plenty of torque to get it moving and high enough revs to get it on the plane. Once you start getting a kv figure well over 1000 you start to get into higher revs which is useful for smaller batteries (e.g. 1000kv x 7.4v = 7400 rpm) which as said is good for fairly small, light, sports and race type boats. Conversely if you have quite a big displacement boat then you want quite a big motor but with a low kv figure as you don't generally want to tear along but want torque! Chris
    1 year ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    motors
    The 46" Huntsman is a big old beast and I'd be looking at something different. You want good speed but not manic. The one you mention is an inrunner brushless which doesn't have as much torque size for size as an
    outrunner
    . If it was me (and it will be at some stage as I have a 46" Huntsman with an MFA 850 brushed motor in it) I'd be looking for a 50 diameter
    outrunner
    around 700kv which will give plenty of torque. There is a Turnigy just under that which might do. I'm building a 33" Swordsman and am fitting an Overlander Tornado Thumper V3 4250/06 800kv
    outrunner
    . it is probably a little oversize but my thinking is that the motor will have an easy time, run cooler and the battery (4S) will last longer. if it is too fast I'll limit the throttle. Better to be too big than too small in my book. Overlander do a 5045/10 720kw which should be good on 4S which could always be increased to 6S if necessary. See what others say though. Chris
    1 year ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    huntsman 46
    hi i am building a huntsman 46 inch. i want to run it on a inrunner/
    outrunner
    it has been suggested a 1800kv 540 can size 45/50 prop has anyone a set up i could use. first boat i need some help.
    1 year ago by pilot
    Forum
    huntsman 46
    Hi Pilot, first of all welcome to the forum. Do you have any modeling experience?? Which kit or plan are you using??? I would recommend an
    outrunner
    look for one with about 700 - 800 watt output, 3s or 4s rated with an ESC rated at least 100 - 150 amps, as a start with a 40 - 45mm brass prop. Kit or plan, reduce the angle of the propshaft to about 15 - 20 degrees electric motors can lie lower in the hull which was designed for I/C motors with their flywheel hanging below the motor, needing extra clearance. Suppliers. Have a look at the hobbyking site, for motor and esc, once you have the basic build underway, decide on the batteries you are going to use. Hope this helps as a starter, look round the web sites get more info and we can direct you further as to your requirements Regards Mark
    1 year ago by jarvo
    Response
    Red Cat hydroplane
    Hi, thanks for the infoπŸ‘ I'm new to BLs, but learning fast, and your experience confirms my growing suspicions that
    outrunner
    s not only deliver more torque than inrunners (size for size) but that they are also more reliable and seldom need water cooling. Your new motor seems to be a larger diameter 58mm?, as opposed to 31mm for the old one, so I begin to wonder if the old ones were simply overloaded by a big prop causing them to draw more and more current and hence cook! 😑😭 Check out this test drive (Italian)of your new type motor!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_dlcLbFehw cheers Doug 😎 PS Caption says that with more than 3/4 throttle the boat becomes unstable! Then it flips πŸ€”
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Deans Seaplane tender
    Many thanks Dave M. I have got a 2826 brushless motor, a 30a esc and a 7.4 lipo battery, all from Component Shop. I am told nobody makes a motor mount for
    outrunner
    brushless motors, or is there a source for them out there somewhere.
    2 years ago by epmbcmember
    Media
    VERNON River Police Launch
    I built this from a set of plans that i had sized up it measures 43"x12" & runs on a 1400kv
    outrunner
    Motor / 40A esc / 11.1v 5000mah battery 3 bladed Brass 50mm M4 Prop I was waiting delivery of a new camera so could not record the earlier stages of the build
    2 years ago by Northumbrian
    Forum
    Richards 48'' Swordsman
    see; a bit of digging in the depths of the mind you never know what you will remember. the motor i am using is an E-Power BL4020/08 522kv 60A
    outrunner
    Brushless Motor. I will let you know how i get on
    2 years ago by rmwall107
    Forum
    Richards 48'' Swordsman
    Hi The D3548/4-1100kv 910watts is
    outrunner
    brushless with rear mounting. Depends on the prop size and number of blades you wish to use. On the 3639-1100 the 2 blade 40mm works well, but, I tested a 3 blade 37mm and drop speed and increased amps.
    2 years ago by canabus
    Forum
    Richards 48'' Swordsman
    Hello the power set up is to be a brushless
    outrunner
    i have been told they have more torque than inrunners. i will let you know how it goes.
    2 years ago by rmwall107
    Forum
    Brushless in or out
    Hi Sonar I have used both in boats and with no watercooling. No problems with both types. The in runners are good for replacing brush motors as the 35mm brushless motor are the same bolt holes as the 540 brush motors. My first brushless was a Trackstar 17T 2400kv into an old rc car, 90watts to 550 watts, turn it into an insane rocket. The main brushless motors we use in the boating club are Hobbyking 3639 750 and 1100kv, 3648 1450kv and the
    outrunner
    D3548 1100kv with a 2 blade 40-50mm props. ESC's are the car 60 and 100 amp which handle 2S to 4S Lipo batteries.
    2 years ago by canabus
    Forum
    Brushless in or out
    Brushless motors. Just a question about them.. What is the real difference between an inrunner and an
    outrunner
    ?
    2 years ago by none
    Forum
    Brushless in or out
    Hi Sonar, I prefer to use
    outrunner
    s whenever possible as they do not require additional cooling. The down side is you need to have space around the motor. John.
    2 years ago by John2


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