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"....Usually you post useable info, but in this case I have to vehemently disagree!
And I would like to put the record straight before you lead our novice members to potential disaster, or at least an expensive disappointment!..."
Well, this certainly stirred something up! And I can't see why? Perhaps RN has shares in a Lipo factory? 😉
All that I have said is standard knowledge on the subject. NiMH ARE more robust than LiPos - I can't see how anyone can disagree with that. They are more forgiving of overcharge and over-depletion. I have not said that Lipos should not be used - I use them myself - but I have stated a preference for NiMH where the benefits of Lipos are not a requirement.
I have been using NiMH for around 15 years, and Lipos for about the same time. During that period I must have bought around 2 dozen
of each type. I currently have one working LiPo pack, while all my NiMH
work, albeit sometimes with less charge than originally. The Lipos have gone unbalanced, swollen, delaminated or punctured at some point.
Lipos, when working, are phenomenal items, and make miniature flying models possible. I use them for this, and would, as I have said, use them when light weight and high power are essential. But they do require that you look after them and follow the rules - in particular, not over-discharging them. If you do not treat them properly they will certainly swell and fail - I cannot see why stating this is considered scaremongering? It is this lack of robustness that makes me prefer NiMH, since I do not take particular care of my batteries. NiMH will put up with this - Lipo won't. That is the gist of what I said, it is attested by other comments on this thread which stress that you must 'follow the rules' and I can't see how stating it will lead novice members to potential disaster or expensive disappointment? I would have thought the opposite...
Incidentally, your comments about the differences between Lipos and Nimh seem to cover all the good points of Lipos and the bad points of NiMH. It would be more useful to novices to see a better balanced description. For instance, recent advances in NiMH batteries have produced low self-discharge batteries - (quoting the wiki)
"In October 2011 the batteries were again improved to retain up to 90% of their capacity after one year, 80% after three years and 70% after five years."
These are readily available, I have used these in emergency flashlights and can confirm that they do do 'what it says on the tin' (though I haven't had time to try out the five year claim yet!). They can be of use if your modelling practices include going to the lake at short notice.
I hope this isn't going to develop into a flame war. As I said, I can't see why noting a preference for the robustness of NiMH should engender such a response...
11 months ago by DodgyGeezer
Hi y’all, quick vid on the Taucher, took her out this past Sunday. Ran her for one 15 minute cruise and then another 30 minutes or so on the Sam charge on 2 3000 mah
wired in parallel, had plenty of power left. Motor got a little warm but not unreasonably so, she didn’t take on water, and she didn’t release any magic smoke, so alls well that ends well😁
12 months ago by Cashrc
Turnigy A-6-10 200W Balance charger & discharger
1. You don't need that adapter, aka Balancer Board. Primarily for LiPo batteries so that the charger can measure individual cell voltages and adjust them accordingly so that they are all the same +/- 100mV or so. So called balancing. Unless you have a rare breed of NiMh with a balancer cable attached you don't need this.
2. 9.5V for an 8 cell NiMh (nominal 9.6) sounds good for new batteries. Nevertheless, I recommend you get a capacity meter, see pic lower battery is a new 4.8V NiMh, upper a LiPo, which will tell you the 'true' state of the battery. For a new, unused NiMh I would expect a capacity of around 40%.
Consensus says new NiMh
should be cycled 3 or 4 times through a discharge / charge cycle to condition them for use and minimise the dreaded 'Memory Effect'.
Set the discharge current to no more than 1Amp, charge current 0.5A (500mA) and charge for 11 hours for your 5000mAh
. The charger should take care or the timing.
It should also gradually reduce the charge current as the battery approaches full charge. The charger should detect Full Charge by a process known as Delta Peak; when fully charged the battery reaches a Peak voltage. If you continue charging the battery becomes 'overcharged' and the voltage dips slightly, the Delta in the Peak voltage😉.
A good charger should detect this and switch off.
Cheers, Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Batteries in a DX5e
And charge twice as much! Whilst the airframe kit is complete and very inexpensive, the ready packed power
are NOT cheap. I can get all the bits in there for half the Graupnerised price. If Graupner want to reach a wider public they need to ensure that the kits are available, which they most certainly are not. I was after the Cub, but out of stock, hence the parasol winged Pietenpol. It was a home build aircraft, Doug with, amazingly, a Ford model A engine and a stand up radiator that must have made forward vision a nightmare! But, I'm sure this is enough about airyplanes on a model boat forum.
1 year ago by Westquay
I am building a 1/24th Perkasa wooden kit.
And I have no idea how to power it.
I have bought two Graupner Speed 700BB turbos that run from 9.6v to 12v.
I don't want to use a 12v gel battery as the boat will sail like a brick!
I want to use two coupled 50 amp speed controllers with Lipos, but I dont think I can use them with these controllers as they are for brushed motors and have a bec 5v / 1amp which I think would destroy the Lipo.
What size Nimh battery pack would you recommend, and would I need two
or would one pack be enough.
I have other boats that only have one motor and are smaller than this one so have not had this sort of conundrum!
I am on a limited budget so cant afford to waste money on trial and error combinations.
I would be very grateful for any suggestions.😭
1 year ago by Daveyboy
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