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    Blog
    Totnes Castle 1894
    I have posted this on another site, but will continue here if there is interest. I have a plan taken from a book some time ago. Drawn my own sections from experience, having built 2
    paddlers
    before. T.D.B.W. on the sections is the true depth of hull. increased depth for stability, as steam plants are top heavy, experience again.
    6 years ago by hammer
    Blog
    helm
    Need a change from wood work. I don't know if the helm was wooden or brass. I do know that brass was very popular on later
    paddlers
    , so brass it is. starting with a 1ins rod I turn the end so. I mark the spokes with a pointed tool, divided by my home made arrangement. A change wheel is fixed to back end of main shaft. in this case a 40, for 8 divisions. I could do with a cross drill on the tool post, but don't have an accurate one. I will have to drill the holes in the mill.
    6 years ago by hammer
    Response
    Totnes Castle 1894
    If your Glen Usk and Devonshire Castle are anything to go by she will be great! Natch there's interestπŸ‘ Others here are building
    paddlers
    as well, at least one I think for the first time so hints and tips will surely be appreciated. Look forward to your Build Blog. πŸ˜‰ Cheers Doug 😎
    6 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Feathering paddle wheels
    Good to see someone designing and making their own parts.
    paddlers
    are always prone to waddling but feathered wheels will be much more realistic and help solve the effect. Be good to see a build blog of how you complete the paddles, might we see such a blog, please? Dave
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Blog
    Feathering paddle wheels
    This model sails well but lists slightly to one side or the other when the paddle wheels start turning. I have been told this was not uncommon on full size
    paddlers
    , a phenomenon known as β€œdigging in”. The only improvement I can think of for this is to fit feathering wheels. After waiting many months for the one remaining supplier who lists them to have them available for purchase, I concluded I'd have to make my own. So I prepared artwork for the parts using inkscape, and had PPD in Scotland photo-etch the pieces in 0.9mm thick nickel silver. The only parts not included were the paddles which I planned to make from styrene to save some weight. (The big pointy part is for something else).
    7 years ago by Trillium
    Response
    Lulonga, RC model
    HI That is one great model, all the grace of the old
    paddlers
    . and the lake s something else. Regards Dave. πŸ‘ πŸ‘ πŸ‘
    8 years ago by EAGLE
    Response
    Hull progress
    I just love model
    paddlers
    . I have 2 both scratch built & steam driven.
    9 years ago by hammer
    Forum
    Paddleducks
    Stephen Good luck with this.
    paddlers
    are an interest to me but not on their own. I find getting onto your site easy which the others are not so. Edward
    10 years ago by cenbeth
    Forum
    Paddle Steamer Kit
    I have built 2
    paddlers
    from scratch. Have no experience of the kit, but could be a little on the small side. How ever the price looks good. You could post on (paddleducks) the dedicated paddler site some one should know there.
    10 years ago by hammer
    Response
    Test Tank!
    HI Hammer Thanks for your input. It's freelance taking influences from many pictures of
    paddlers
    , mainly around Edwardian times but also using what bits I have or am capable of producing. I'm thinking of attaching the Sponsons directly to the removable upper cabin and deck as they need to be clear of the paddles to allow them to be adjusted or removed. I could then fix sponson platforms direct to the hull to meet up with the sponsons when the whole cabin / sponson assembly is fittted. We shall see ! Chris
    10 years ago by chrislang
    Blog
    Bridge furniture.
    The helm on
    paddlers
    normally in brass. Turned the rim & boss on the end of 1.25" brass rod, with a hole in the centre. Marked the position of the spokes on the lathe, no drill on the tool post. So drilled for the 1.5mm spokes very carefully. Glued the spokes in with epoxy. Back in the lathe to part off the rod, then bolt through the centre hole, back in the lathe to clean up the back, trim the handles. The telegraph stem two different sizes of brass tube, the dial 1/2" tube filled with balsa and printed (on computer) paper stuck on both sides. All in place including the binnacle, the Iron balls are mapping pins the compass printed paper again. The finished rails seen with the dodgers, made from cooking foil covered with PVA glue & painted. The speaking tube just bent & flared out on the end.
    10 years ago by hammer


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