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    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for
    paint
    ing and finishing.
    4 months ago by robbob
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)
    This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh
    paint
    here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)
    5 months ago by ads90
    Response
    Anteno 2 tug
    I feel I have to comment on your Anteo Tug, that has to be one of the neatest planked hulls I have seen in a while, and the
    paint
    job on the hull is quite incredible, wow. I built this kit back in the 1970s and it definitely is and was really good value for money, none of your white metal rubbish, near enough everything was brass and good quality. I opted for the authentic look and fitted a steam plant into the hull, not an easy job to cut down and strengthen all those ribs, but worth it in the end. Enjoy your hobby.Regards.Gary.
    4 days ago by GaryLC
    Blog
    Mast assembly
    The supplied mast is of white metal and although OK it has a number of minus points for me. 1- The mast does not lend its self to being hinged. 2- It really needs navigation light on top and the supplied casting is not suitable for this. 3- wiring needs to be hidden, not easy with the casting 4- it’s quite heavy Having said all that it’s ok if you don’t want my wish list. So on with the manufacture of a replica, I chose brass as the preferred material because it’s easy to silver and soft solder. The main legs are made from 6mm round tube, which I squeezed in my machine vice to an oval shape to look like the castings, each of the ends were then squeezed again at 90 degrees to allow then to join to the cross mid-section. I made some brass inserts for the hinged end from 2mm brass sheet, which are bent by 25 degrees to allow the hinge mechanism to sit at 90 degrees to the cabin roof, these are drilled and tapped 8BA. These pieces actually block the end of the oval tube and need to have a 2mm slot milled in them to allow the wires to exit the tube; these are soft soldered in place later. Two feet were made from two pieces of 2mm brass plate the base plate being slotted to accept the upright and finally silver soldered together. (A point here for silver soldering is to use as little solder as possible and allow it to flow with the heat around the joint this means that no filing is needed. I find it’s also good practice to quench the part when nearly cool to break the glass like residue of the flux then just steel wool is required to clean the parts). The feet upstands were then drilled 8BA clearance and the base fixing holes drilled the same size. The cross mid-section is made from 1mm brass sheet and is bent through 360 degrees whilst placing a 6mm round bar in the centre to create a hole for the top mast. A small wooden former was used as the piece was pressed together in the machine vice, this was then silver soldered to give stability and then filed to shape. This piece has to accommodate the wires passing through, so again a 2mm slot is milled from each leg location to the centre to create passage up to the top mast. The top mast is just stock tubing which then has a turned top with four 5mm holes machined at 90 degrees to accommodate the LED. This is a 5mm Flat top wide angle LED this will direct the light out of the four holes. Finally the cross piece, again stock tube with small ball finials at each end soft soldered in place and tapped 10 BA for the pulley blocks. All pieces now made, it’s time to assemble the parts using a combination of soft soldering and epoxy resin. The wire that I used was silicon sheaved, and when I soldered the legs to the mid-section and lower hinge piece I made sure there was enough wire to pull through to check if the process had damaged the wire, but it hadn’t. So having soldered the LED, the top was epoxied to the upper tube and the tube epoxied to the mid-section. Finally the mid-section was filled using Milliput but first putting some Vaseline on the wires to avoid them being stuck should I ever have to rewire the unit. Next the cross beam was added and epoxied in place. The bottom of the legs looked plain compared with the cast version so I have made some thin gauge brass covers with mock bolts as per the original. The whole assembly was cleaned up ready for a first coat of etch primer, and white primer, followed later with a final coat of appliance white
    4 days ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    paint
    ing over epoxy
    On fibreglass you could use an etching primer which is a modified alkyd primer that produces a sound base coat on wood, steel, fiberglass, aluminum surfaces. but you should use an ordinary primer before the top coat. Halfords do a spray etch primer.
    5 days ago by mturpin013
    Response
    funnel mounts and deck hatches
    Nice work, can I offer a very simple but effective improvement to the Cowl Vents, just cut small circle of black card and stick it in the red area and it looks as if there is a hole to the interior, then just
    paint
    with a matt varnish. I did mine and I think they look good
    6 days ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    paint
    ing over epoxy
    I have used several Halfords Aerosol spray cans on boats over the recent years. In each case I have sanded the hull down to bare wood as the boats were vintage ones and did have coats of
    paint
    on them that could not be identified. Best to use thin applications of both primer then
    paint
    then build up on that after leaving 24 hours between each coat. Another good point is that Halfords also stock plastic primer in their
    paint
    s range which is ideal if your boat has a polystyrene hull or you have plastic fittings. Boaty😎
    7 days ago by boaty
    Forum
    paint
    ing over epoxy
    Halfods spray cans will work brilliantly of if you know of someone who works in a body shop get them to spray it with 2 pak
    paint
    for you Dave
    7 days ago by Dave J
    Response
    paint
    ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    Panel wipes...one of the best thing going, used to wipe over before final coat with ispropanol alcohol, but panel wipes are much easier, and of no cost really.
    8 days ago by Rookysailor
    Blog
    funnel mounts and deck hatches
    Fitted the "legs" to the wheel house so now at correct height when on the deck. Funnel mounts done (just need to finish the funnels, workout what holes to drill and then mount the funnels to the mounts) so we added 2 hatches to each mount,
    paint
    ed white with brass hinges. the one placed between the Cowl vents is open, the one at the back is closed. as we only had "closed" hatches put a triangle shaped bit of plastic under the "open" hatch to prop open. When dry mounting the Cowl Vents found an issue with the rear vents as they are suppose to be higher than the wheelhouse and the ones i got where not, so found 2 wooden cotton reels the right height and turned then down to the correct width using the pillar drill as a lathe,
    paint
    ed them up and then placed the Cowl vents on those. also
    paint
    ed the "flat" vents chrome and stuck those to the mounts as well. to finish off these all we have to do is fit the breather pipes and ladder to funnels and fix the funnels to the mounts (allowing for the front funnel to have the hole for the smoke generator. Started work on the 2 deck hatches using 1mm plastic sheet. Made the 2 housings up and the planked and varnished them ready for the hatches. found out i had only enough hatches to do 1 housing, so drilled a 7mm hole in the hatch for a 10mm brass porthole,
    paint
    ed white with brass hinges. once dry stuck them on the housing ready to go. (ordered some more hatches to i can complete the other housing lol) one last thing was to start on the wheel box. Found in "The Works" in town a heart shaped box which was almost perfect for a mold for the thin wood that was steamed to shape and then held on the heart to fix the curve in place. next to do is to make up the front and back of the wheel boxes and stick the "curved" wood to that
    8 days ago by barryskeates
    Response
    paint
    ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    I always use panel wipes as a result of my experience with spaying kit cars, the same methodology applies even though the item is somewhat smaller and in a way its more important as the finished item often gets closer scrutiny.
    8 days ago by mturpin013
    Response
    paint
    ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    Doesn't everybody use panel wipe ??..... .....Actually.....I didn't until I got some grease or silicone on a surface to be
    paint
    ed and it was the devil's 👿 job to get it off so that the
    paint
    didn't react....lesson learned 😁. I use it all the time now 👍 Robbob
    8 days ago by robbob
    Response
    paint
    ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    Haleluia someone who actually does the
    paint
    ing stage right for a change using Panel Wipe top marks there. Dave
    8 days ago by Dave J
    Blog
    paint
    ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.
    There’s no putting it off any longer, I need to start
    paint
    ing the hull before I do any more on the boat so the hull was given a final rub down with a fine abrasive and then the deck and gunwales carefully masked off. I used some panel wipe to thoroughly de-grease all the surfaces and then put the hull in the ‘spray booth’ on my turntable and applied two coats of Halfords grey primer. I left this for a couple of days to dry and harden off before setting it on my bench. The next stage involves levelling the hull fore and aft and side to side so that the waterline can be established. Fortunately the well deck floor is meant to be perfectly level when the boat is afloat and at rest and this is the datum I used to level to using a couple of spirit levels. The rough waterline points were measured off the plan and transferred to the hull to be used as approximate starting points for the waterline. For my previous build I bought a self-levelling laser to indicate the waterline so this was brought out for the same purpose. The laser level was placed on another workbench a couple of metres away and gradually raised with packing pieces until the projected line agreed with the rough position marks I’d made on the hull and then finely adjusted until the line was correct and pencil marks made at intervals along the projected line. The process was repeated for the other side of the hull and then also marked across the stern, fortunately the stern line and bow markings joined up accurately confirming that the levelling was spot on. Good quality low tack masking tape was then applied all around the hull and the area above the line masked off with a couple of layers of newspaper. The exposed hull was then keyed with a fine Scotchbrite type pad and cleaned off with panel wipe before two coats of Halfords red oxide primer applied as the anti-fouling.
    9 days ago by robbob
    Blog
    end of week report LOL
    good week this week, i should of said that there are 2 of us working on this Tug, myself and my father. this means that we are splitting the work up and as he is retired he can spend some more time on the boat than i can. so, (and i forgot to take the "before" photos) we have the wheelhouse and the platform it sits on (as the platform is held above the deck on a number of legs. plasticard and wood veneer outer cladding with a (removable) roof. going to put lighting in the table, telegraph, binnacle, map table and ships wheel.
    paint
    ed the 4 Cowl vents then we dry fitted (placed no glue) the various parts( wheel house, funnels, mounts) into place on the deck to see how it looks. finally
    paint
    ed the funnels yellow to match the Cowl vents still to do on the Funnel mounts is to
    paint
    and place the vents (flat vents), fit the Cowl vents,
    paint
    and fit the hatch covers (white hatches with bronze hinges) fit the pipework to the exterior of the funnels drill holes in the front mount for the steam generator funnel and finally mount the funnels to the mounts (so not too much just for those 2 bits)
    11 days ago by barryskeates
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    I guess you will only be able to tell properly is when it's primered. I suppose you could always fill it and resand - that will be my fallback position! Is the motor size in the instructions? Had a look at a build article and it's not in there. if you haven't got it it's well worth getting because as well as the build of that very kit Dave Milbourn has written an article on finishing nd
    paint
    ing which I'm reffering to. it's the Model Boats Winter Special Edition 2018. Chris
    11 days ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Planking
    What type of boat/ship if its purely a sport boat you can cover the planking with tissue and dope then high build primer. Sand it down and
    paint
    with whatever takes your fancy. On the other hand if your wanting the planking to show ( scale type model) you need to seal the wood on the outside and inside with a decent varnish that should provide all sealing you need.
    12 days ago by Haverlock
    Blog
    Deck Parts
    good weekend Made up,
    paint
    ed and planked up the engine cover and the 2 funnel stands. Funnel stands need to have the Cowl vents, funnels, hatches and tow mounts fitted to them. Need top make up, create,
    paint
    all of those first of course😁 also looking at a steam generator to go into the front Funnel so a hole will be drilled into the mount for that as well
    13 days ago by barryskeates
    Response
    Mowe 2
    Good looking boat.Nice clean
    paint
    job.Looks good on the water.
    15 days ago by Donnieboy
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Mowe 2
    I hadn't build a RC model for over 45 years, so as a 60th Birthday present my wife bought me this Aeronaut Mowe 2 kit, complete with all the RC equipment; motor, servo, transmitter and receiver, ESC unit etc. It was a great kit to build and took me about 3 months from start to finish. The hull was a bit tricky, but a tube of P38 and lots of sanding, re-filling with light balsa filler, re-sanding, finishing and
    paint
    ing and patience won through! Not a brilliant finish, but an ideal boat to get my hand back-in to modelling. When sailing, the boat needed a bit of ballast in the form of 2 old AA batteries in the bow to keep it stable and level in the water at speed! (ESC: Aeronaut) (8/10)
    15 days ago by StuartE
    Blog
    vintage yacht (Victoria)
    restoring a vintage free sail yacht have named this as there is no name on the yacht after removing 4 colour layers of
    paint
    from the hull and 2 days sanding I re
    paint
    ed with 5 layers of
    paint
    rubbing down with 2000 grade between each coat
    8 months ago by jacko
    Response
    paint
    ing
    Thanks Doug. Do you have any idea as to why white spray
    paint
    is much more difficult to get good coverage with than most other colours.🤓
    24 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    PS Enterprise
    The Top deck is now complete. The hull is partially
    paint
    ed and the construction of the superstructure has begun and the rudder is now attached
    24 days ago by rcmodelboats
    Forum
    paint
    ing white metal
    Good evening Can someone advise me on the correct method to
    paint
    white metal fittings, the fittings I have, had been
    paint
    ed several times,so I have scrapped the layers off down to bare metal,do I have to prime or can I brush
    paint
    straight on. Which is best enamel or acrylic. Thanks Roger
    26 days ago by Rogal118
    Forum
    paint
    ing white metal
    Thanks to you all that's cleared that up for me,your explanations are clear and now I know what to do. I will post photos as I proceed. Thanks once again for your time.Roger
    25 days ago by Rogal118
    Forum
    paint
    ing white metal
    I found the enamel over acrylic comment interesting I have never had a reaction between acrylic and enamel
    paint
    s. The only reaction I have seen ( to my chagrin) was cellulose over enamel ( do not do it EVER) enamel over cellulose is fine. Acrylic not using powerful solvents tends to be safe over anything and once "set" pretty resistant to the solvents in enamel
    paint
    . However when it comes to a
    paint
    ing sequence I have actually used cellulose ( clear shrinking dope) followed by enamel for base colour then acrylic for details.
    26 days ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hi, Ed: I did more web searching & struck gold. I found some excellent photos & great information about the Southampton’s smoke system (the Southampton is identical to the Richardson except
    paint
    & markings). Smoke fluid goes in the little tube on component “B”, not “A”. When the deckhouse floor is installed that little tube fits snugly into a raised ring on the inside surface of the deckhouse floor. The rubber plug goes through a hole in the deckhouse floor (see photos) to seal it up the filler tube. I’m going to rework the filler tube arrangement by enlarging the hole in the floor so it’ll fit around an extension tube that I’ll add onto the existing filler tube. I’ll seal the extended filler tube with a snug-fitting vinyl cap (I have dozens of vinyl caps on hand). Doing this modification will make it a lot easier for my clumsy fumble-fingers when smoke fluid needs to be added. I emailed Hobby Engine today via their website’s “contact us” page & asked them for information about the smoke system. I’m also going to contact Nick at Harbor Models tomorrow & ask him for advice as you suggested. I’ll be sure to “tell him Ed sent me”! By the way, have you had any contact with Doug (RNinMunich) lately? I half expected him to offer up some advice about this topic. A couple of weeks ago I replied to something he posted on the “LED Mast Lights” topic, but he didn’t respond. I also sent him a PM to ask how he’s doing, but he didn’t respond. He used to reply pretty much right away whenever I asked him a question or for advice. I hope he’s all right & I also hope I didn’t say something that insulted him in some way. He did a lot of design work for my tug’s lighting upgrade project. That upgrade is definitely going to get done; it’s been held up all along by a string of eye infections, then my fall, surgery & recovery. if you hear from him please say “hello” for me. I’ll post back later on & share whatever information I receive about the smoke system or fluid from either Hobby Engine or Nick at Harbor Models. Thanks for your input & advice, Ed. I appreciate it! Thanks, Pete
    26 days ago by Pete
    Forum
    paint
    ing white metal
    Hi Roger, Metal fittings of any kind and white metal figures can be
    paint
    ed with either Humbrol type
    paint
    (enamel) or Acrylic
    paint
    ,both will need their own primer, but remember😱. you can
    paint
    enamel over acrylic, but not the other way (acrylic over enamel). Most of the fittings I get in my Deans Marine warships are white metal and resin, I use Halfords plastic primer (grey or white) then use acrylic
    paint
    from various company's to finish off. Hope this is of some help to you.😊 cheers Peter👍
    26 days ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    paint
    ing white metal
    Hi Rogal, Whatever it is (wood, fibre glass, plastic, white or any other colour metal) PRIME IT! Primers are designed to give the top coat
    paint
    s something to stick to. Otherwise they will scratch easily and flake off especially from smooth plastic or metallic surfaces etc. Enamel or acrylic? Your choice, just make sure both are the same basis otherwise you may get a nasty reaction when you apply the top coat😲 Acrylics are usually easier to use, don't pong, and the brushes can be cleaned in warm water😊 Happy
    paint
    ing, cheers, Doug 😎
    26 days ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Shroud for Model Air Boat
    Hello, CPO: I agree with Joe727. I’d use a high quality two-part epoxy for sure & maybe some sort of small fasteners, too, if there’s room for them. When I was about eight years old my father had a real air boat named “Banshee”. She was
    paint
    ed bright red & was an absolute blast to ride in, although I remember being more than slightly terrified on a few occasions. Dad modified her four-cylinder airplane engine to the point that she’d easily get close to 60 knots. Dad only opened her up that much in summer in late afternoon or early evening when there wasn’t much wind. Believe me, calm air or not, at 55 to 60 knots when the boat virtually goes airborne it’s white-knuckle terrifying, especially when sitting in a “bar stool” high above the water!
    28 days ago by Pete
    Forum
    Shroud for Model Air Boat
    Hello, Airboats are not something I have real experience with, but your one comment got my attention: SuperGlue, or CA, an abbreviation, as it is commonly referred to. It does not withstand constant exposure to water. it is not waterproof. Now there is likely to be a storm of comments against this, but this is based upon experience over 20 years. CA is great and I do use it for some applications on my boats. However if it's below the waterline make certain to adequately sealed or properly
    paint
    ed over it. This is a good rule for most glues that sit below the water, with the exception of truely waterproof glues like epoxy. Good luck with your projects. Cheers Joe
    28 days ago by Joe727
    Response
    paint
    ing
    Looking good Peter, well done. 👍👍👍
    29 days ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    paint
    ing
    I must admit that the
    paint
    ing process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats,
    paint
    ed, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the
    paint
    ing and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.🤓 The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😤 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊
    29 days ago by MouldBuilder
    Blog
    Building the Cabin. Part 2
    Before the front window panels can be added to the cabin structure they need to be shaped to follow the curvature of the front deck as much as possible and then glued together with a reinforcing strip on the back of the joint. Unfortunately I made an error 😡 when shaping and jointing the parts and had to make some new panels from some thin ply that I had to hand using the old panels as a template, hence the roughly cut window apertures in the ‘photos. This was unfortunate but I feel better for the confession 🙏. The new window panel was then glued and pinned to the front of the cabin assembly and left to dry while in the meantime I used my hot air gun to heat and bend the roof panel to the correct curvature. The roof panel was then pinned and glued in place on the cabin framework and when dry was trimmed with a small plane and the front window panel trimmed down to the roof profile. I added some additional framing and bracing pieces at the base of the front window panels and a ‘shelf’ which will form part of the dashboard inside the cabin. I also added some extra framing and an end panel at the rear of the roof and a thin square bead was fitted around the base of the cabin sides and front to improve the appearance where the cabin meets the deck. Before adding further detail to the cabin I used some Z-Poxy finishing resin on the roof panel to strengthen it and provide a better surface for the
    paint
    finish which comprised of one coat of white primer, two coats of gloss ‘Appliance White’ and two coats of gloss lacquer, all with a thorough rub down between. When all the
    paint
    had dried and hardened I gave the exterior of the cabin a first coat of ‘Antique Pine’ stain. Next I will add some detail to the deck.
    1 month ago by robbob
    Forum
    Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
    Thanks for your advice gentlemen. I have finished the deck and it doesn't look too bad. Before
    paint
    ing, however, it will need careful preparation. Whilst searching the internet for help, I came across this tutorial which some of you may find helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkmeoYKYctw Cheers Steve
    1 month ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
    My latest project, a 1/24 scale MA/SB is currently taking shape. The vessel is based upon the 63ft BPBCo launch and I understand some had planked decks. There is nothing I like better than planking a deck but I can find no reference to MA/SBs having anything other than metal decks. My recommended reference book is Caostal Craft History Vol.2 which only tells me that planked decks were usually varnished whilst metal decks were usually
    paint
    ed grey. Can anyone assist please? Steve
    2 months ago by cormorant
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones . I have ordered a new rudder, and new plexi glass for the windows. Already in hand is an Mtronics Viper marine 25 amp ESC. 12 volt 7ah battery, Futaba 27 or 40 Mhz RX. Futaba servo. Just awaiting the motor from Doug (RN in Munich). We are going to re
    paint
    the Hull in White, Cabin sides in Dark Blue, Cabin roofs in White. The decks will be left as my dad made them, just cleaned and a fresh coat of varnish. the inside of the hull is well sealed already with bitumen (original) which is still allright. Next stage start rubbing down the hull ready for the glass cloth and Ezekote resin. at least i can do this indoors in the warm, workshop too d*** cold. Thats all for today shipmates, more to come, Cheers Colin.
    1 month ago by Colin H
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    ".......If you have a computer, they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "
    paint
    " or use
    paint
    .net.... Take the image and open with
    paint
    , then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save........" The fully-featured Open Source image processing package is called 'The Gimp'. You can download it for free, and it enables you to perform any image manipulation process you like - matching professional packages like Photoshop. I use it to create full drawings of vintage model boat plans which are often sent to me as a set of partial A4-sized scans. These can easily be re-sized, rotated, matched up and stitched together to make a full-sized drawing. For example, look at any of the Stirling plans on my Old Boats website: http://oldboats.tk/Sterling1.html
    1 month ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    Collin, What a great project... I have recently been taking small images and blowing them up by selecting smaller areas, say the cabin roof only, then printing that on A4. Usually these files have high enough resolution to make some very readable files. if you have a computer, they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "
    paint
    " or use
    paint
    .net.... Take the image and open with
    paint
    , then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save. Be sure you save under a different name so as not to loose the original file. I may be giving you information that you already know, don't mean to insult.. See my photo of some I did last night, pasted about six together to see the 1M boat sections. These are rough as they come from an image only 16cm wide, but good enough for me to build from given some drafting. Good luck with the build, I will be watching. Joe
    1 month ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
    Steve, That is the right colour. For a model that size consider just buying three or four tinlets. For my Fairmile D I needed much more, so had it mixed up at a local
    paint
    store once I got a tinlet and
    paint
    ed the colour on a test board. if you have it mixed you end up with at least 500ml. This colour photo shows the deck on a Fairmile D.
    2 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
    I have established that the decks on these vessels were planked and usually
    paint
    ed RN Dark Grey Blue B15. Whilst I can source this
    paint
    in small amounts, typically 17ml, I am unable to find it in larger amounts. The boat is 82cm long x 22cm beam. Can anyone help please? Thank you Steve
    2 months ago by cormorant
    Blog
    Putty and sanding
    Did some putty job on both sides. Still a lot sanding to do. And put some white
    paint
    inside. it will make it look bit clean and also work as a layer. Will prevent the water reaching ply. Beside of it a small cabin cruiser.
    2 months ago by Sakibian
    Response
    Rubbing fenders, more epoxy & hatch coamings.
    You cant beat elbow grease, there aren't any shortcuts to achieving a perfect
    paint
    finish. I thought it may be useful to other builders to mention something we discussed at AP and that is the fact that it wasn't good practice to use any filler after glassing as this filling however thin or small will over time shrink at a different rate to that of the
    paint
    , making it visible as a "shrink line" albeit small. if you do find yourself in the position of requiring some minor filling you should try to use a material that is the same chemical make up as your
    paint
    eg if using cellulose then use cellulose putty for minor filling but do allow it to harden for a couple of weeks before final coat. Also the disc sander from Lidl is brilliant for the price, I did make a small modification by taking out some of the end float by fitting an additional washer/spacer
    2 months ago by mturpin013
    Blog
    Rubbing fenders, more epoxy & hatch coamings.
    With all of the deck planking fitted I can now fix the rubbing fenders to the hull where the deck meets the hull sides. These are made from 6.5mm x 5mm obeche strip steamed and bent to shape and fixed with 30 minute epoxy, unfortunately the strips are not quite long enough to do this in one piece even with the rear rubbing fender in place at the stern so a join has to be made which I hope won’t be too conspicuous. The fender tapers in height from bow to stern and the piece that runs across the stern was made from 5mm x 5mm obeche. All the fenders were ‘pilot drilled’ for the pins that held them in place while the glue set. The complete hull was then given a further two coats of epoxy resin with a rub down between coats and a final ‘polish’ with 240 grit paper used wet. The resulting finish is perfectly smooth and ready for
    paint
    . The front and rear hatches were fitted with the coamings that will hold the hatches in place. The rotary disk sander that I bought from Lidl is certainly proving to be very useful in shaping small parts at this stage of the construction. I note that it’s back on sale now (Feb 2019) so if you have the opportunity and £30 ….go buy yourself one! The next stage will be to assemble the cabin.
    2 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Sports cruiser ''ALI''
    Planking by 2mm pvc. its not smooth. I normally use the
    paint
    putty,with cement powder. its good and waterproof.
    2 months ago by Sakibian
    Response
    Sports cruiser ''ALI''
    Hey Joe! Thanks for your reply. I do agree with you here about the CA glue. We call it superglue here. I have a plan to cover the whole boat by
    paint
    ing. But i think pvc works great with CA glue. it gets stuck so fast that soetimes my fingers are stuck with it🤐 Some pictures when my younger cousin broke it. But i fixed it again. it was a pain in the butt thoug.
    2 months ago by Sakibian
    Response
    Sports cruiser ''ALI''
    Hello, Looks good! I use PVC for all my wood. CA is not very water resistant. if you can get the waterproof type PVC, use that. if not, if it is just a white glue, make sure all glued areas are covered with a waterproof coating. Such as varnish or
    paint
    . When I glue wood, I put glue on each joint, let it sit for a few minutes while it soaks into the wood grain. Apply a bit more glue and press together. Clamp or somehow hold the joint securely while it dries. Most PVCs take at least 30 minutes to set. Depending on the joint, I usually will come back a day later and fill any gap that may appear. PVC creats a joint stronger than wood. CA is brittle and the joint can snap. Give it a try and good luck to you. Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring
    paint
    ing, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the
    paint
    ing and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
    2 years ago by robbob
    Response
    Can't stop adding stuff
    Good stuff Joe👍 Detail of the smoker please! That's the trouble / fun with ship modelling, so many possibilities. The only limit (within weight and available power considerations) is imagination and ingenuity. I've even seen a tug on which a cabin door opens, a sailor comes out and pees over the side😲😁 Some crew would liven up your boat. And a horn? Working winch and towing tackle? Crane? Radar? Signalling lamp? ... I once fitted a working monitor on a boat - just to keep inquisitive kids with sticky fingers at bay! BTW; fires DO do VERY WELL on boats; all that
    paint
    and other inflammable material!🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Reassembly
    Continuing on, I finished mounting the light bar, all lights are functioning. For some reason my iPad does not like LEDs and they don't photograph when lit. Made an exhaust stack out of brass tube, mitered the top, soldered and
    paint
    ed. Hull dry now so I mounted the superstructure onto the hatch, reinstalled the tow bits, switch and batteries, RX, motor, etc. Getting close to sea trials, maybe this week schedule permitting. Cheers, Joe
    2 months ago by Joe727


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