Blog

Krick Police Launch

I have just started to build the Police Launch that I have had for a while. Work commitments have left me with little time lately but hopefully I can get a good run on this one for a while. I hope to finish it by late July which just leaves me enough time to send it to Hungary so that I can test it. The kit is said to be good for a beginner. This would be good as many years ago I built a Patrol Torpedo Boat which took me five years. I am currently restoring this one as well but I think that will take most of this year to complete.😁 I have started by buying the speed controller. The motor is a 400 brushed. Probably not going to be too difficult to keep up with this one. The kit itself is not too bad considering the price, but I do feel that the ABS vacuum formed hull could be of a slightly better quality. Also I am finding the ply wood to be rather brittle. Does anybody have an idea for a good filler to use to fill the chips which will take to acrylic . I have prepared the hull and added the propeller shaft and rudder holes. Care taken here to avoid splits in the plastic. Cellotape on both sides before drilling helps.🤓 I have assembled the internal parts which hold the motor, battery and rudder and also fitted the prop shaft.😲 I will start on the deck and superstructure next. An additional note about the kit. The instructions are reasonable but they are in black and white which is not helpful considering they are photograph based with text. I found a PDF on the web which is in full colour. Why don`t Krick supply this. Surely not that expensive.🤔

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Blog

HMCS Sackville - WWII Corvette

I haven't made a lot of progress in the past year but the funnel is ready for ing and I'm pleased with how the 4-inch gun has turned out. Sea trials did not go well last summer. I had no success with the boiler - the burner still gave me trouble. I tried different sized jets but it still took over 30 minutes to get up steam and by then the fuel tank was empty. I'll build a larger tank before next summer.

6 years ago by gordc

Blog

Command Boat 90

Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 × Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 × Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats/combat-boat-90-h/specification/ Eventually I found some plans of sort :- http://laurell.today/boats/combat/plans.html My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally ed plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

a yacht yet to get a name

As usual it is a long interval since last up date but some progress has been made on the Valsheda and I attached some pics that had to be done indoors as it is a bit wet from the sky outside. I have finished the decking and basic ing of hull also started lime planking of deck fittings to bring into line with decking. Have worked out positions of winches on deck and obtained stock of brass rod at a sensible price from a local scrap yard. I have to produce some drawings of winches and get into production and have found someone who can plate them with a bright finish near to stainless steel. The Management of the Bristol Aero Collection has recently sacked me as a volunteer for being too critical of them so I will have more time to get on with the boat and with rising temperatures the garage is a bit more comfortable. With the warmer weather coming I will soon have to think about the manucture of the carbon fibre mast, has anyone else made one and can give me some guidance ? I am thinking of a timber core with a woven fibre tube covering. Also thinking of how to attach main sail to mast.

8 years ago by nasraf

Blog

Speranza 01

Started on the Stringers and Chines, some of the stringers are Spruce, 1/4" x 1/4" , one cracked on the bow curvature, not immediately it was glued and pinned, but about an hour after, should have laminated these spruce stringers as in 1/8" x 1/4" times 2. Another one has cracked since but they are repairable.. Mixed up a weak solution of PVA and water and ed the rest, hoping this will soften them up and be more pliable. Started on the transom, this is angled with a sharp centre line, but there was a lot of off cuts of Obechie lying around, so it was planked with a curve, first Modelers License applied. A few more dry fits and the bow and transom were assembled up, using stringers as alignment tools, anything will do in these instances even strips of ply. Some of the upper-works combing has been fitted around the transom area. Muddy....

7 years ago by muddy

Forum

getting old

ing a piece of ply with sanding sealer today, I managed to dip my brush into my mug of tea instead of the sanding sealer, TWICE, the only upside is I didn't drink the sanding sealer (that will probably happen next year) 😁 Alan

7 years ago by AlanP

Forum

Hints and Tips.

WEATHERING Hi guys, There are many technics to weathering your models. one way is to use a weathering kit made from coloured powder. Approx £15.00 - £20.00 Or you could use Pastels sanded or filed, and use the powder from that. Approx £5.00. Method:- Apply the powder using small brush over the required area, when the desired affect has been achieved you then spray over it with a mat/semigloss varnish. My tip is next time your wife/partner goes shopping for makeup, look at the vast range and shades of eye shadow or even an eye shadow palette. Approx £1.00 or less. It will do the same job as the others (above) at a fraction of the price. And it will last you many many years of weathering you'r models. Martin555.

4 years ago by Martin555

Response

Re: What colors to use?

Hi E, There are three distributors in USA http://www.billingboats.com/articles/distributors-america.html Nearest ones to you are in NJ or NY. There's also one in CA. Only place in this list I know (knew🙄) is Las Condes, Santiago de Chile. Was often there in the nineties for meetings with MoD /Navy and our agent there.😉 The Billing s are small bottles and quite expensive, and you'll need an air-brush for the big bits!! I'd look for the nearest R-O or Tamiya spray can equivalent if I were you. The excellent conversion chart that Martin found can help you there 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS the numbers are on page 16 of the Building Instructions. Seems they've stopped putting them up with BB numbers, now just in triangles!! See pic.

4 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: More done

Thanks Doug, I hope I can do her justice. Like you, I really like the Tamiya rattle cans, I was going to use my airbrush but the Tamiya s are working well right now. Have you ever tried the Tamiya acrylic for airbrushing? I’m thinking about giving that a go sometime. Cash

4 years ago by Cashrc

Response

Re: Chine strakes and hull ing

Hi Graham. I'm pleased to see that you have started a 'refit' blog, and from what you've posted so far shows a remarkable improvement. The addition of the chine strakes have clearly been a worthwhile addition too. I also had a similar issue with the Halfords gloss lacquer coat being very 'soft' for a long time and easily marked, the hardening process does seems to take some time and so I did have to flat down the gloss lacquer on my boat and re-finish it too. Body repairers use an infra red lamp to dry and cure base coat and clear coat finishes before they polish it to a high gloss finish as I found out when I had a small repair done on my car by a mobile 'Chips Away' type repair company. They advised me that the drying/curing process does take time if the finish isn't 'baked' in a shop spray booth/oven. Curiously the red anti fouling on mine was finished with a satin lacquer and didn't suffer from any such problems and the hull sits on some neoprene pads on the stand with no ill effects. Keep up the great work👍. Robbob.

4 years ago by robbob

Blog

More done

Real quick update. I built up the stuffing tube and rudder post. Both are made from 6mm brass tube in which you install flanged 6x3 mm bushings. They’re a tight fit, but I soldered themin just in case. I installed the rudder post tube into the hull, followed by the ply bushings that are glued in place over the tube and against the hull, then slathered epoxy over the joint. I also started test fitting some of the motor mount parts to get an idea how this will all fit. Hopefully I’ll get more done this weekend, once the power system is in, I can concentrate on finishing up the upper superstructure, then, it’s time to and detail. Thinking about either airbrushing her or Tamiya rattle can. The Tamiya s aren’t cheap, but they cover well and dry fast.

4 years ago by Cashrc

Blog

36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob

After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for ing and finishing.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

GLUE FOR ABS

I used acetone for internal reinforcing strips (ABS to ABS) or sticking an ABS bracket to the hull etc. You just use a small brush and run some acetone along the edge while clamping the part. You have to be careful on the outside as it will mark the ABS finish if you get a run. I'm assuming it's still the same material Graupner used to make hulls out of (I had a Commodore and still have an Optimist from the 70s). Try a drop on some scrap to see if it will melt the ABS. If it does, you can also make an ABS 'putty' from scrap material softened with acetone for smoothing a seam etc (sets fast though).

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft

Most of the good stuff has gone now, most solvent based sanding sealers etc are waterbased now, (even car s are going waterbased). Waterbased stuff just doesn't get the same results as the old s etc (fade like mad down here in NZ sun) and are not much good if you don't want to wet your project, or later with acrylic enamel (solvent based) or enamel. On the other hand, I use ers (art) acrylic s for some finishing work and interiors on the models. It's totally waterproof and you can mix any colour you like. I've used the metallics on the rudders and props on my HSL (even the boot topping stripe) and it's stuck really well, despite the props spinning at 15000 rpm max revs. I guess it can have a place on certain modelling jobs. John B

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft

Well, if we have finished discussing ladies' underwear, I would like to go on with the discussion on plan creation... Actually, finishes on EeZeBilts is a bit of a problem. It's true that balsa is not a good surface to on, and a common trick has been to cover it - with tissue, brown paper, nylons or fibreglass - and then work on that. I have always found this to be a bit fiddly and time-consuming, and prefer to get a reasonable surface with sanding sealer, then use car spray s and finish off with spray lacquer. Remember to seal the inside as well - balsa can swell like anything if it absorbs water. I'm currently trying sprayed acrylic s in an effort to lower the cost - they seem to work if well sealed.. Anyway, back to the design... It turns out that this hull is not a simple one to convert to an EeZeBilt. The angles on it make the shape critical to get right, and we have no measurements or any precise pictures at right angles. Still, we will do our best... Now we have got a basic hull shape, we look at it, compare with pictures and see if it looks right... When I did this, I thought that the stern should be fatter and the hull should taper towards the bow. Martin555 pointed out that the funnel should be lower and wider, and the mast should be wider... so I tweaked the hull and superstructure until it looked a bit closer... compare fig 10 with fig 11. As we develop a reasonable plan and elevation, we can start to consider cross-sections. In this case I am thinking about powering the hull with water-jets, so I think about where they will fit. Most of the hull can be a simple box structure which the egg-box design is great for - it will only need a different approach at the bow. In fig 12 you can see various stern cross-sections being tried out for jet fitting and similarity to the rear photo. A CAD package is really handy here - you can just nudge lines and angles until they look OK. When the hull shape looks like it's settled down, we can add the cross bulkheads. You can see these in fig 13. From this drawing we will be able to generate the bulkhead shapes, the deck and sub-deck and the keel, just by measurement. But only for the main part of the hull. We will leave the ways you can do EeZebilt bows for the next session...

4 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Blog

ing etc. On Andrea Gail

Went out to my hobby store & bought some & man hobby sure is expensive these day's . Because the model was never made to be a R/C boat a lot of thinking has to go into how to get into the hull to change batteries & if anything go'es wrong with the electronics you need to find a way to remove decks to get into her for repairs . Still a lot of fine details to complete but I'm almost there . I would like to post a video of her maiden voyage but not to sure how to do that .

4 years ago by GARTH

Forum

CNC boat kits...?

"...I suppose depending on the cutting head you will be able to cut thin sheet plastic?...." The basic machine is just a precise 3-D positioning device. You then tie anything you want onto the end, depending on the job you want to do. A router or a laser will cut wood, a milling bit will cut metal, a knife will cut vinyl or paper. A plastic extrusion head will let you build up plastic shapes, a pen would let you write letters, and I suppose a brush would let you create watercolours... For every material there is a workholding requirement, and a set-up and run optimisation process to undertake, but the principle is simple.

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

46'' RAF Crash Tender

"..I should not jump to conclusions, due to the lack of information maybe I should have researched before submitting my last post...." Hi Martin - I agree with DG - we all do it from time to time . No need for apologies - you were asking the right question anyway. Can remember reading an article on getting the warps out - for the life of me cant remember where - going through a lot of back issues at the moment - very confusing as the brain fades...........Was hoping someone else may have read it - Don't think using better half's hairdryer would go down too well - and the stripper heat gun would simply melt the plastic !

5 years ago by redpmg

Forum

46'' RAF Crash Tender

Hi Elsrickle, Those are the same drawings that I posted 6 days ago. if I remember correctly Martin (Westquay) sent them to me a year or so ago to ask me to enhance them a little so we could decipher the text describing the s used. Thanks for blowing up the text 👍 It confirms as I had posted; decks, cabin sides and tops were all the same shade of grey. https://www.e-.co.uk/Lab_values.asp?cRange=BS%20381C&cRef=BS381C%20631&cDescription=Light%20grey Decks non-slip, cabins smooth. No white anywhere. But if you like white - Why not?😉 Cheers, Doug

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Hints and Tips.

TUB WORK STAND Hi Guys, I use old tub's as work/display stands. Remove the handle. Cut out the desired shape for your boat at the top of the tub. Line the cutout with rubber hose. It is ideal for holding your models when you are working on them. With some modifications you could use it to but your boats in the water and retrieve them as it is made from plastic. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Hints and Tips.

Love it,,sod's law,, I’ve just renewed mine .I used my last one to make a stirer, ideal for the tinlets.

5 years ago by KenThompson

Forum

Hints and Tips.

So simple, yet brilliant, I too can relate to knocking over pots of glue and jars. Thank you.

5 years ago by KenThompson

Forum

Hints and Tips.

CLEAN FINISH ON PLASTIC Hi Guys Another little tip this is mainly for the beginner to plastic kit model making. After sanding holes or small parts it tends to leave small wispy bits I have found that if you use a small brush and liquid plastic glue and brush over the area it cleans it up and leaves a nice Finnish. As you may of gathered I also tinkering with plastic kits. I also use this when working with plastic card. The photos are just for demonstration,But you can see the results on the railings on my Gato. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Glue

Hi, For the plastic card I use humbrol liquid poly (see photo)and applied with a small brush. And I also use super glue and if I apply it to small areas after it has been ed I use a thin piece if electrical wire, (sometimes just one strand)and for a larger area I use a cocktail stick. For two part epoxy I use different sizes of plastic card depending on how much I use. I hope this helps.

5 years ago by Martin555

Forum

Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB

My latest project, a 1/24 scale MA/SB is currently taking shape. The vessel is based upon the 63ft BPBCo launch and I understand some had planked decks. There is nothing I like better than planking a deck but I can find no reference to MA/SBs having anything other than metal decks. My recommended reference book is Caostal Craft History Vol.2 which only tells me that planked decks were usually varnished whilst metal decks were usually ed grey. Can anyone assist please? Steve

5 years ago by cormorant

Forum

Hints & Tips

Would it be possible to start a topic on hints & tips in building? For instance I struggled for years with filler application , and when going through my old artist type oil s etc to pass on to my kids , came across some old W&N palette knives. They work a treat from the very small to very large applications. Had bought a cheap set before leaving UK from one of those outlets that pop up from around Christmas, dug that one out and the broad and angled blades work well for the large applications. The flexible heads push the filler in very well and practically no wastage.

5 years ago by redpmg

Blog

Fairmount Alpine - TUG!

I have to admit I'm a bit of a novice and tend to work on my own a lot, although I have looked at build videos on YouTube. I often wonder about the best time to the various bits as it seems some will be difficult to do later. So I ed the guard rail uprights and glued them in... then clamped the ed guard rails (proper names?) then started adding the hull sides, glued, clamped, and pinned where necessary. Size comparison picture with tug Annabelle (Billings Banckert) Fairmount is 1:75 scale, Banckert is 1:48

6 years ago by Harvey Kitten

Forum

New forum rankings.

LifeColor accurate naval s and original scheme prints do? Snag; sending s through the post or courier services! RATS!!😭

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

(Naval Ship) Sir Kay (T241)

This is my Sir Kay (T241) - Round Table Class Minesweeper. it is from the Caldercraft range and I was fortunate to recently acquire it - I would have much preferred to have built it but couldn't miss the opportunity of it being given to me by an old retiring modeller. it just needed new RC throughout, a good clean, a tidy up and some fresh here and there plus a bit of rigging renewal. Not tried it in the water yet but will do tomorrow at our Club meet. (Motor: MFA Geared 2.5:1) (ESC: Mtroniks) (5/10)

5 years ago by ads90

Response

Anteno 2 tug

I feel I have to comment on your Anteo Tug, that has to be one of the neatest planked hulls I have seen in a while, and the job on the hull is quite incredible, wow. I built this kit back in the 1970s and it definitely is and was really good value for money, none of your white metal rubbish, near enough everything was brass and good quality. I opted for the authentic look and fitted a steam plant into the hull, not an easy job to cut down and strengthen all those ribs, but worth it in the end. Enjoy your hobby.Regards.Gary.

5 years ago by GaryLC

Blog

Mast assembly

The supplied mast is of white metal and although OK it has a number of minus points for me. 1- The mast does not lend its self to being hinged. 2- It really needs navigation light on top and the supplied casting is not suitable for this. 3- wiring needs to be hidden, not easy with the casting 4- it’s quite heavy Having said all that it’s ok if you don’t want my wish list. So on with the manufacture of a replica, I chose brass as the preferred material because it’s easy to silver and soft solder. The main legs are made from 6mm round tube, which I squeezed in my machine vice to an oval shape to look like the castings, each of the ends were then squeezed again at 90 degrees to allow then to join to the cross mid-section. I made some brass inserts for the hinged end from 2mm brass sheet, which are bent by 25 degrees to allow the hinge mechanism to sit at 90 degrees to the cabin roof, these are drilled and tapped 8BA. These pieces actually block the end of the oval tube and need to have a 2mm slot milled in them to allow the wires to exit the tube; these are soft soldered in place later. Two feet were made from two pieces of 2mm brass plate the base plate being slotted to accept the upright and finally silver soldered together. (A point here for silver soldering is to use as little solder as possible and allow it to flow with the heat around the joint this means that no filing is needed. I find it’s also good practice to quench the part when nearly cool to break the glass like residue of the flux then just steel wool is required to clean the parts). The feet upstands were then drilled 8BA clearance and the base fixing holes drilled the same size. The cross mid-section is made from 1mm brass sheet and is bent through 360 degrees whilst placing a 6mm round bar in the centre to create a hole for the top mast. A small wooden former was used as the piece was pressed together in the machine vice, this was then silver soldered to give stability and then filed to shape. This piece has to accommodate the wires passing through, so again a 2mm slot is milled from each leg location to the centre to create passage up to the top mast. The top mast is just stock tubing which then has a turned top with four 5mm holes machined at 90 degrees to accommodate the LED. This is a 5mm Flat top wide angle LED this will direct the light out of the four holes. Finally the cross piece, again stock tube with small ball finials at each end soft soldered in place and tapped 10 BA for the pulley blocks. All pieces now made, it’s time to assemble the parts using a combination of soft soldering and epoxy resin. The wire that I used was silicon sheaved, and when I soldered the legs to the mid-section and lower hinge piece I made sure there was enough wire to pull through to check if the process had damaged the wire, but it hadn’t. So having soldered the LED, the top was epoxied to the upper tube and the tube epoxied to the mid-section. Finally the mid-section was filled using Milliput but first putting some Vaseline on the wires to avoid them being stuck should I ever have to rewire the unit. Next the cross beam was added and epoxied in place. The bottom of the legs looked plain compared with the cast version so I have made some thin gauge brass covers with mock bolts as per the original. The whole assembly was cleaned up ready for a first coat of etch primer, and white primer, followed later with a final coat of appliance white

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

ing over epoxy

On fibreglass you could use an etching primer which is a modified alkyd primer that produces a sound base coat on wood, steel, fiberglass, aluminum surfaces. but you should use an ordinary primer before the top coat. Halfords do a spray etch primer.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

funnel mounts and deck hatches

Nice work, can I offer a very simple but effective improvement to the Cowl Vents, just cut small circle of black card and stick it in the red area and it looks as if there is a hole to the interior, then just with a matt varnish. I did mine and I think they look good

5 years ago by mturpin013

Forum

ing over epoxy

I have used several Halfords Aerosol spray cans on boats over the recent years. In each case I have sanded the hull down to bare wood as the boats were vintage ones and did have coats of on them that could not be identified. Best to use thin applications of both primer then then build up on that after leaving 24 hours between each coat. Another good point is that Halfords also stock plastic primer in their s range which is ideal if your boat has a polystyrene hull or you have plastic fittings. Boaty😎

5 years ago by boaty

Forum

ing over epoxy

Halfods spray cans will work brilliantly of if you know of someone who works in a body shop get them to spray it with 2 pak for you Dave

5 years ago by Dave J

Response

ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.

Panel wipes...one of the best thing going, used to wipe over before final coat with ispropanol alcohol, but panel wipes are much easier, and of no cost really.

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Blog

funnel mounts and deck hatches

Fitted the "legs" to the wheel house so now at correct height when on the deck. Funnel mounts done (just need to finish the funnels, workout what holes to drill and then mount the funnels to the mounts) so we added 2 hatches to each mount, ed white with brass hinges. the one placed between the Cowl vents is open, the one at the back is closed. as we only had "closed" hatches put a triangle shaped bit of plastic under the "open" hatch to prop open. When dry mounting the Cowl Vents found an issue with the rear vents as they are suppose to be higher than the wheelhouse and the ones i got where not, so found 2 wooden cotton reels the right height and turned then down to the correct width using the pillar drill as a lathe, ed them up and then placed the Cowl vents on those. also ed the "flat" vents chrome and stuck those to the mounts as well. to finish off these all we have to do is fit the breather pipes and ladder to funnels and fix the funnels to the mounts (allowing for the front funnel to have the hole for the smoke generator. Started work on the 2 deck hatches using 1mm plastic sheet. Made the 2 housings up and the planked and varnished them ready for the hatches. found out i had only enough hatches to do 1 housing, so drilled a 7mm hole in the hatch for a 10mm brass porthole, ed white with brass hinges. once dry stuck them on the housing ready to go. (ordered some more hatches to i can complete the other housing lol) one last thing was to start on the wheel box. Found in "The Works" in town a heart shaped box which was almost perfect for a mold for the thin wood that was steamed to shape and then held on the heart to fix the curve in place. next to do is to make up the front and back of the wheel boxes and stick the "curved" wood to that

5 years ago by barryskeates

Response

ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.

I always use panel wipes as a result of my experience with spaying kit cars, the same methodology applies even though the item is somewhat smaller and in a way its more important as the finished item often gets closer scrutiny.

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.

Doesn't everybody use panel wipe ??..... .....Actually.....I didn't until I got some grease or silicone on a surface to be ed and it was the devil's 👿 job to get it off so that the didn't react....lesson learned 😁. I use it all the time now 👍 Robbob

5 years ago by robbob

Response

ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.

Haleluia someone who actually does the ing stage right for a change using Panel Wipe top marks there. Dave

5 years ago by Dave J

Blog

ing the hull – Part 1 primer & anti fouling.

There’s no putting it off any longer, I need to start ing the hull before I do any more on the boat so the hull was given a final rub down with a fine abrasive and then the deck and gunwales carefully masked off. I used some panel wipe to thoroughly de-grease all the surfaces and then put the hull in the ‘spray booth’ on my turntable and applied two coats of Halfords grey primer. I left this for a couple of days to dry and harden off before setting it on my bench. The next stage involves levelling the hull fore and aft and side to side so that the waterline can be established. Fortunately the well deck floor is meant to be perfectly level when the boat is afloat and at rest and this is the datum I used to level to using a couple of spirit levels. The rough waterline points were measured off the plan and transferred to the hull to be used as approximate starting points for the waterline. For my previous build I bought a self-levelling laser to indicate the waterline so this was brought out for the same purpose. The laser level was placed on another workbench a couple of metres away and gradually raised with packing pieces until the projected line agreed with the rough position marks I’d made on the hull and then finely adjusted until the line was correct and pencil marks made at intervals along the projected line. The process was repeated for the other side of the hull and then also marked across the stern, fortunately the stern line and bow markings joined up accurately confirming that the levelling was spot on. Good quality low tack masking tape was then applied all around the hull and the area above the line masked off with a couple of layers of newspaper. The exposed hull was then keyed with a fine Scotchbrite type pad and cleaned off with panel wipe before two coats of Halfords red oxide primer applied as the anti-fouling.

5 years ago by robbob

Blog

end of week report LOL

good week this week, i should of said that there are 2 of us working on this Tug, myself and my father. this means that we are splitting the work up and as he is retired he can spend some more time on the boat than i can. so, (and i forgot to take the "before" photos) we have the wheelhouse and the platform it sits on (as the platform is held above the deck on a number of legs. plasticard and wood veneer outer cladding with a (removable) roof. going to put lighting in the table, telegraph, binnacle, map table and ships wheel. ed the 4 Cowl vents then we dry fitted (placed no glue) the various parts( wheel house, funnels, mounts) into place on the deck to see how it looks. finally ed the funnels yellow to match the Cowl vents still to do on the Funnel mounts is to and place the vents (flat vents), fit the Cowl vents, and fit the hatch covers (white hatches with bronze hinges) fit the pipework to the exterior of the funnels drill holes in the front mount for the steam generator funnel and finally mount the funnels to the mounts (so not too much just for those 2 bits)

5 years ago by barryskeates

Response

Basic hull construction completed

I guess you will only be able to tell properly is when it's primered. I suppose you could always fill it and resand - that will be my fallback position! Is the motor size in the instructions? Had a look at a build article and it's not in there. if you haven't got it it's well worth getting because as well as the build of that very kit Dave Milbourn has written an article on finishing nd ing which I'm reffering to. it's the Model Boats Winter Special Edition 2018. Chris

5 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

Planking

What type of boat/ship if its purely a sport boat you can cover the planking with tissue and dope then high build primer. Sand it down and with whatever takes your fancy. On the other hand if your wanting the planking to show ( scale type model) you need to seal the wood on the outside and inside with a decent varnish that should provide all sealing you need.

5 years ago by Haverlock

Blog

Deck Parts

good weekend Made up, ed and planked up the engine cover and the 2 funnel stands. Funnel stands need to have the Cowl vents, funnels, hatches and tow mounts fitted to them. Need top make up, create, all of those first of course😁 also looking at a steam generator to go into the front Funnel so a hole will be drilled into the mount for that as well

5 years ago by barryskeates

Response

Mowe 2

Good looking boat.Nice clean job.Looks good on the water.

5 years ago by Donnieboy

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vintage yacht (Victoria)

restoring a vintage free sail yacht have named this as there is no name on the yacht after removing 4 colour layers of from the hull and 2 days sanding I reed with 5 layers of rubbing down with 2000 grade between each coat

5 years ago by jacko

Response

ing

Thanks Doug. Do you have any idea as to why white spray is much more difficult to get good coverage with than most other colours.🤓

5 years ago by MouldBuilder

Blog

PS Enterprise

The Top deck is now complete. The hull is partially ed and the construction of the superstructure has begun and the rudder is now attached

5 years ago by rcmodelboats

Forum

ing white metal

Thanks to you all that's cleared that up for me,your explanations are clear and now I know what to do. I will post photos as I proceed. Thanks once again for your time.Roger

5 years ago by Rogal118