|||
Current Website Support
249
Contributors
10
Subscribers
You are Not Registered
Donate for your silver medal πŸ…
Β£10
Β£15
Β£25
Β£50
Subscribe for your gold medal πŸ…
Β£1
Β£3
Β£5
Β£10
You Will Be Helping Towards:

  • Domain Fees
  • Security Certificates
  • iOS & Android App Fees
  • Website Hosting
  • Fast Servers
  • Data Backups
  • Upkeep & Maintenance
  • Administration Costs

    Without your support the website wouldn't be what it is today.

    Please consider donating towards these fees to help keep us afloat.

    Read more

    All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.

    Many thanks for your kind support
  • Join Us On Social Media!
    Save £50 when you join Bulb
    Model Boats Website
    Model Boats Website
    Home
    Forum
    Build Blogs
    Media Gallery
    Boat Clubs & Lakes
    Events
    Boat Harbour
    How-To Articles
    Plans & Docs
    Useful Links
    Search
    Search
    Response
    Re: What colors to use?
    Hi E, There are three distributors in USA http://www.billingboats.com/articles/distributors-america.html Nearest ones to you are in NJ or NY. There's also one in CA. Only place in this list I know (knewπŸ™„) is Las Condes, Santiago de Chile. Was often there in the nineties for meetings with MoD /Navy and our agent there.πŸ˜‰ The Billing
    paints
    are small bottles and quite expensive, and you'll need an air-brush for the big bits!! I'd look for the nearest R-O or Tamiya spray can equivalent if I were you. The excellent conversion chart that Martin found can help you there 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS the paint numbers are on page 16 of the Building Instructions. Seems they've stopped putting them up with BB numbers, now just in triangles!! See pic.
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: More done
    Thanks Doug, I hope I can do her justice. Like you, I really like the Tamiya rattle cans, I was going to use my airbrush but the Tamiya
    paints
    are working well right now. Have you ever tried the Tamiya acrylic for airbrushing? I’m thinking about giving that a go sometime. Cash
    3 months ago by Cashrc
    Blog
    More done
    Real quick update. I built up the stuffing tube and rudder post. Both are made from 6mm brass tube in which you install flanged 6x3 mm bushings. They’re a tight fit, but I soldered themin just in case. I installed the rudder post tube into the hull, followed by the ply bushings that are glued in place over the tube and against the hull, then slathered epoxy over the joint. I also started test fitting some of the motor mount parts to get an idea how this will all fit. Hopefully I’ll get more done this weekend, once the power system is in, I can concentrate on finishing up the upper superstructure, then, it’s time to paint and detail. Thinking about either airbrushing her or Tamiya rattle can. The Tamiya
    paints
    aren’t cheap, but they cover well and dry fast.
    3 months ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Most of the good stuff has gone now, most solvent based sanding sealers etc are waterbased now, (even car
    paints
    are going waterbased). Waterbased stuff just doesn't get the same results as the old
    paints
    etc (fade like mad down here in NZ sun) and are not much good if you don't want to wet your project, or later paint with acrylic enamel (solvent based) or enamel. On the other hand, I use painters (art) acrylic
    paints
    for some finishing work and interiors on the models. It's totally waterproof and you can mix any colour you like. I've used the metallics on the rudders and props on my HSL (even the boot topping stripe) and it's stuck really well, despite the props spinning at 15000 rpm max revs. I guess it can have a place on certain modelling jobs. John B
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    Well, if we have finished discussing ladies' underwear, I would like to go on with the discussion on plan creation... Actually, paint finishes on EeZeBilts is a bit of a problem. It's true that balsa is not a good surface to paint on, and a common trick has been to cover it - with tissue, brown paper, nylons or fibreglass - and then work on that. I have always found this to be a bit fiddly and time-consuming, and prefer to get a reasonable surface with sanding sealer, then use car spray
    paints
    and finish off with spray lacquer. Remember to seal the inside as well - balsa can swell like anything if it absorbs water. I'm currently trying sprayed acrylic
    paints
    in an effort to lower the cost - they seem to work if well sealed.. Anyway, back to the design... It turns out that this hull is not a simple one to convert to an EeZeBilt. The angles on it make the shape critical to get right, and we have no measurements or any precise pictures at right angles. Still, we will do our best... Now we have got a basic hull shape, we look at it, compare with pictures and see if it looks right... When I did this, I thought that the stern should be fatter and the hull should taper towards the bow. Martin555 pointed out that the funnel should be lower and wider, and the mast should be wider... so I tweaked the hull and superstructure until it looked a bit closer... compare fig 10 with fig 11. As we develop a reasonable plan and elevation, we can start to consider cross-sections. In this case I am thinking about powering the hull with water-jets, so I think about where they will fit. Most of the hull can be a simple box structure which the egg-box design is great for - it will only need a different approach at the bow. In fig 12 you can see various stern cross-sections being tried out for jet fitting and similarity to the rear photo. A CAD package is really handy here - you can just nudge lines and angles until they look OK. When the hull shape looks like it's settled down, we can add the cross bulkheads. You can see these in fig 13. From this drawing we will be able to generate the bulkhead shapes, the deck and sub-deck and the keel, just by measurement. But only for the main part of the hull. We will leave the ways you can do EeZebilt bows for the next session...
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Hints & Tips
    Would it be possible to start a topic on hints & tips in building? For instance I struggled for years with filler application , and when going through my old artist type oil
    paints
    etc to pass on to my kids , came across some old W&N palette knives. They work a treat from the very small to very large applications. Had bought a cheap set before leaving UK from one of those outlets that pop up from around Christmas, dug that one out and the broad and angled blades work well for the large applications. The flexible heads push the filler in very well and practically no wastage.
    7 months ago by redpmg
    Forum
    Painting over epoxy
    I have used several Halfords Aerosol spray cans on boats over the recent years. In each case I have sanded the hull down to bare wood as the boats were vintage ones and did have coats of paint on them that could not be identified. Best to use thin applications of both primer then paint then build up on that after leaving 24 hours between each coat. Another good point is that Halfords also stock plastic primer in their
    paints
    range which is ideal if your boat has a polystyrene hull or you have plastic fittings. Boaty😎
    9 months ago by boaty
    Forum
    Painting white metal
    I found the enamel over acrylic comment interesting I have never had a reaction between acrylic and enamel
    paints
    . The only reaction I have seen ( to my chagrin) was cellulose over enamel ( do not do it EVER) enamel over cellulose is fine. Acrylic not using powerful solvents tends to be safe over anything and once "set" pretty resistant to the solvents in enamel paint. However when it comes to a painting sequence I have actually used cellulose ( clear shrinking dope) followed by enamel for base colour then acrylic for details.
    10 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Painting white metal
    Hi Rogal, Whatever it is (wood, fibre glass, plastic, white or any other colour metal) PRIME IT! Primers are designed to give the top coat
    paints
    something to stick to. Otherwise they will scratch easily and flake off especially from smooth plastic or metallic surfaces etc. Enamel or acrylic? Your choice, just make sure both are the same basis otherwise you may get a nasty reaction when you apply the top coat😲 Acrylics are usually easier to use, don't pong, and the brushes can be cleaned in warm water😊 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    mini update
    Hi Steve. The paint used by Fairey was international
    paints
    Oxford Blue 105, if you contact them they should send you a colour chart which you can then use as a colour reference elsewhere. if you decide to use international
    paints
    , it’s available from most chandlery shops
    11 months ago by Brianaro
    Response
    First Snow!
    Thanks Don, I had to search high and low for her
    paints
    ! It took a bit of time but well worth the wait...….
    1 year ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Spray
    paints
    If they are enamels like Plastikote used to be, yes, but as far as I know, Plastikote changed formulae to acrylic, which, if their brush pots were anything to go by are complete crap. I had one that reacted with itself! I complained bitterly to them and they sent me every pot of enamel they had left in the office! Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Spray
    paints
    This looks handy folks.---https://www.metals4u.co.uk/tools/c190/decorating-wood-care/c2518/
    paints
    -spray-
    paints
    /c2846/decorative-sprays/c3834?source=mailer&utm_campaign=m4u+nov+2018&utm_source=emailCampaign&utm_content=&utm_medium=email πŸ‘
    1 year ago by onetenor
    Response
    Spraying Again.......
    Mornin' Peter, Red primer can be a good match for some anti-fouling
    paints
    . If you are happy with the colour - fine. BUT!! Seal the primer paint with several thin coats of matt or silk clear varnish for the reasons mentioned to Neville above! Primer is porous!! Flatten the primer with 1000 / 1500 wet n dry until your fingertips tell you the surface is good. Apply the varnish in several thin coats, flattening lightly with 2000 / 3000 w&d between coats, until you have a good sealed surface. The varnish (or lacquer) will also give some extra protection against knocks and bangs 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc....
    My wee red boat after a rub down and a file/sand on the steel keel. This morning I painted the red with HMG enamel and got the green mixed in the same make enamel by my wonderful chap at Kett's Auto
    paints
    . The mast came in two parts, so I did a slight scarf and glued it. When the joint is well set, I'll make a splint and set it in prior to a rub down and a good waxing. The steel (tinplate) parts came with the predictable rust, but with my selection of scrapers and chisels made of broken and worn Swiss files I was able to scrape most of it off back to reasonable shiny steel. The out of shapeness needed only a clout with a cold chisel type of bodywork tool in the right places to restore it to original shape. Loops were filed to lose most of their rust, but not replaced. They'll be Vaselined as a form of anti rust, waterproofing. I have some new 1.3mm cord coming from Caldercraft. I just hope I can remember how it was rigged. I ain't great with knots. The sails were absolutely filthy with some sort of oil based grime, but my dear bride sorted them out with Vanish and a good hand wash. Pics of those tomorrow. I love this stuff.! Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    paints
    Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'! First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss
    paints
    OR matt
    paints
    . Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models. This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard action) 😁 During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of
    paints
    on warships. Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin. Whether matt
    paints
    were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board. Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01 RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16 RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23 See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats
    paints
    , which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel. If you prefer acrylic try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1. See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue. Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the resultsπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎 PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN
    paints
    . BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish. Otherwise I agree with Reilly's commentsπŸ‘
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    paints
    I am a bit stuck as to what type of
    paints
    to use on my Thornycroft MTB. Do I use gloss or matt? What type of paint is suggested Acrylic, emulsion, etc? Who can supply - say - 250ml of any recommended paint as I will probably need to apply at least two coats. I have already applied sanding sealer and undercoat and now need finishing
    paints
    . One for under hull and t'other for topsides. Any suggestions for a supplier would be greatly appreciated.
    1 year ago by Morkullen
    Forum
    paints
    My point was that real vessels of that era didn't get matt paint as it wasn't strictly available. They had satin or, as they called it, "non gloss". For anything. I'm not remotely interested in warships of any sort, but I do know about
    paints
    and they could only use what was available. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    paints
    I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism. The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.
    1 year ago by reilly4
    Forum
    paints
    I use enamels, always. They don't react with anything. Rustoleum do a range of colours in gloss and satin and are cheaper than any other rattle cans. I get mine from a branch of Boyes. The original was always a satin rather than a matt. Totally matt paint wasn't available then. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Where's our mate?...
    Evenin' Peter, Thanks πŸ˜‰ Not quite 100% yet but getting there. Fit enough to answer your question I think, mainly cos I just bought a bunch of RN and USN
    paints
    meself😁 First off, have a shufti at this link, it details all 'Measures' up to # 23 near the end of the Pacific war. There's also a colour pic of USS Kidd wearing Measure 22 which was used on Destroyer Escorts (DE) at the time. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/World_War_II_ship_camouflage_measures_of_the_United_States_Navy In 1944 it was replaced by a Dazzle pattern on the Fletchers, Measure 32, similar to RN Western Approaches pattern, until 1945 when they reverted to Measure 22 but with the revised Haze Gray. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/World_War_II_US_Navy_dazzle_camouflage_measures_31,_32_and_33:_destroyers I also attach attach a colour chart from Sovereign Hobbies who took over the White Ensign Colour Coats range of navy enamel
    paints
    . Have a look at page 6. They are made by Snyder & Short from authentic Navy Paint Chips apparently. I just bought a bunch of them in RN colours for my 'Plastic Magic' conversions. Get 'em here- https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea/american If you prefer acrylic have a look at the LifeColor Sets # CS24 and CS25 'US Navy WWII'. Chart and catalogue attached. get here for instance- https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/lifecolor-paint-sets/43947-us-navy-wwii-set-1 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Gee Dee models closing down!
    Sad to say that this wonderful Nottingham model shop is about to close. The owner is 87, and the manager, Malcolm Chiswick, has run the shop for over 50years. If no one buys it, the shop will close in November of this year. So, if anyone knows of someone that may be interested, please let them know. A lease is available, and the owner can be reached at: p.grain@ntlworld.com It would a sad day if it was to close permanently. Everything currently in stock is being discounted, except
    paints
    , and wood
    1 year ago by J Barry
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi Steve, I'll see what i can do. No promises as the range of Acrylics is somewhat more limited as far as Naval colours goes. One way out is to buy some Naval Paint Chips from Snyder & Short. http://www.shipcamouflage.com/royal_navy1.htm These are taken from the original chips of admiralty
    paints
    used to mix the Colour Coats enamel colours. Enables mixing to suit from more basic 'standard' colours. Bit of 'mix it and see' involved. Testors acrylics may be a better bet. They do some Naval colours. Also recommended by the HMS Hood Association. For instance; this would be good for hull and upperworks https://www.hobbylinc.com/testors-model-master-507-c-light-gray-r-n-1:2-oz-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-4870 This for the decks? https://www.hobbylinc.com/testors-model-master-light-sea-gray-fs36307-1:2-oz-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-4759 There are also some excellent tips on painting scale warships hereπŸ˜‰ http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/tips/hoodpaint.htm I've just been studying this for my 1/350 Hood, and just ordered a batch of suitable Colour Coats to paint her 'As Sunk' 😭 Cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi Doug Just had a look at Life Colour which on first sight would suit me better with the acrylic
    paints
    . Here is my first attempt at scratch building. Nothing glued down yet as I have still got plenty to do before I can put the deck in place. The funnels are cigar tubes and I have a smoker in 2 and 4. I decided to lash out on 3D printed main armament but I still need to make the gun shields. Thanks for your help and advice so far and best of luck with your 1/350 - hope you will keep me updated on progress. Cheers Steve
    1 year ago by cormorant
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Great SteveπŸ‘ Will look forward to that, bon chance mon ami, Doug 😎 BTW: 'Life Colour' might be worth a look, they do several navy
    paints
    and sets from various eras as well as cammo and weathering sets.
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Hi John, Attached is the old Colour Coats Naval
    paints
    chart form White ensign Models. it's based on original navy Paint Chips apparently. Of course precisely how the colours look on your device will depend on the settings of the display! But it gives you a comparison of the colours. Here's a brief history of Cambletown, ex Buchanan D131 if you want to build the USN version. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/HMS_Campbeltown_(I42) From this it can be seen the she operated either in the Western Approaches or on the West Africa convoy routes. So I think that Medium grey (RN02) is a bit dark, more suited to North Atlantic convoy duty perhaps? I would go for Light grey RN03 or M23 Light Admiralty grey for the hull and upperworks with Medium greenish grey RN06 for the decks. If you want to go 'Cammo pattern' the Western Approaches colours for this are also in the chart. The colour coats
    paints
    are now sold by Sovereign Hobbies https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea/british I just bought a batch from their German dealer; NNT Modell 😊 Some may not be available (Discontinued) but we can probably find near equivalents; I have several 'conversion charts' for Revell, Humbrol, Tamiya etc. My dealer still had a few tins of a Discontinued colour so it's worth askingπŸ˜‰ Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...
    Is it a silver finish you want? or chrome finish, if chrome is what you want, try ALCLAD
    paints
    , saw them at Telford IPMS show last November, and decided to try some on a club 500, you have to spray the base coat of black, and then the candy silver over it, really gives it a chrome more than silver finish, I think you can get it on Ebay, not expensive and worth a goπŸ‘ Peter😊
    1 year ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    three model live steam boats for sale
    Mornin' Maurice, No not yet. So far I've cleaned and primed the hull and bought new ESCs, 50 calibre MGs with mounts and ammo belts from Shapeways, scale crew members and Pacific cammo
    paints
    , Oh and the 37mm field gun for the foredeck. Then I got tangled up in a restoration and conversion from static to RC of an ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter. 😲 Right now I'm trying to figure out how to fit my renovated and converted Taycol Target motor plus battery and usual electronics into the small hull! Have been considering spraying some colour on the PTB hull the next few days, while it's still warm and dry outsideπŸ˜‰ Then I can set about refitting the shafts and rudders. What are you up to? Apart from sniffing round steamers!😁 All the best, Doug 😎
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Fairly Hunsman renovation part 1
    Good thinking. if it helps, The Fairey Owners Club www.faireyownersclub.co.uk has a lot of info and reference pictures on these boats and Charles Lawrence wrote Fairey in Context and Fifty Years of Fairey Raceboats czczcz@me.com (that is right). The original boats I’m told were painted with international
    paints
    Oxford Blue 105 and White 905. I purchased these from a yacht chandlery.
    1 year ago by Brianaro
    Media
    Dumas USS Crockett
    Asheville Class gun boat model is 51” long weighs 22 lbs. hull covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. All plywood and balsa construction finished with fiberglass resin and Model Master
    paints
    . Working radar mast, turrets, desiel sound, whopper sound, general quarters sound, sierene. Power is MACK Drives 12 volt system 2 x 2 6volt 3000 nimh each drive. Very fast in the water.
    1 year ago by Mikep
    Directory
    (Yacht) Adele
    Model is from Dumas kit hull covered with 2 layers or 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. Deck mahogany covered with 3/4 oz. cloth and resin, painted with klass Coat epoxy
    paints
    . Running lights and cabin light. Built with removable interchangeable bridge windscreen or windscreen with roof. (Motor: MACK 5045) (ESC: MACK 35) (8/10)
    1 year ago by Mikep
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    Thanks, Doug. I really like the idea of simply using the exact same white LED for everything, including all of the colored LEDs currently on the boat. Coloring each LED the appropriate colors is the ideal solution. Glass lacquer is a great idea, plus Tamiya makes a translucent or semi-opaque acrylic paint available in many colors.
    paints
    are ideal because I can control the depth of color simply by applying more coats. Another plus is that I can replace the somewhat cheesy looking port & starboard sidelights with more realistic ones. I like it! Will you please rework things as necessary to account for white LEDs as I’ve described? Things are coming together beautifully. Thanks, Pete
    1 year ago by PittsfieldPete
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Doug. After spraying, how long is the minimum time before removing the masking tape. Acrylic
    paints
    used. Thanks.πŸ˜‰
    1 year ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    46Firefloat Mk2 paint
    Unless described as flat, paint was more often a brighter satin than matt and rarely actual gloss. White will always have been an off white as the components of
    paints
    were such that it was not possible to get a really bright white. I know that for a fact as my grandad always made his own and until PEP in the mid 60s (Plastic Emulsion Paint) there was no such thing as brilliant or appliance white. Unfortunately getting an decent off white is not easy these days since Plastikote went acrylic and their previously excellent
    paints
    started eating themselves on recoating. I now use enamels exclusively. They are densely pigmented, flexible and modern enamels dry pretty quickly. I am using a black enamel primer on my Crash Tender, which I will then spray with black "gloss" from the same range, which, once thinned with white spirit, will dry a little less than glossy. I still don't have a matt brick red for the undersides, but it can be made matt-ish with a careful rub down with 1000 grit wet and dry used wet and soapy, but be careful not to sand through, so very lightly does it, even 1000 grit can cut well when new. Decks were said to be Cerrux Light Deck Grey, anti-slip, which means a textured surface. That would be darker looking due to the surface texture's way with the light. The cabin sides were described as "smooth", i.e. same as the decks but not anti-slip. The roofs? Well, on Vosper's drawing "white" is crossed through and "Grey" written in. But, some pics do look white, the best pics look darker by a whisker than the sides and the roofs are clearly textured as they show evidence, as do the decks, of filth which will sit in the texture. You choose. NOBODY has yet given us chapter and verse. The fact is, an already very handsome boat looks so very pretty with white roofs. But they too should be off white if you can get it! Good luck. Fittings, btw can be had from SLEC in Watton in white metal. Basically the old Yeoman fittings, masters now owned by IP Engineering who bought them to cast when they owned Vintage Model Boat Company. Now they've sold that to SLEC, but I don't think SLEC have white metal casting facilities, so probably cast by Ivor still. I have just had a set for my birthday and they're excellent. They do need careful cleaning up as in mould lines need to be filed/scraped/sanded to a decent finish and then given good primered surface. No hook though, but it does include nav and riding lights. This site also has masts for sale in plastic, but I made my own in brass as I will the hook and davit. I have also just had a set of crew figures cast from my patterns and they will be available soon...a driver(Helm), a boss with binoculars and a lazy slob laying around in the after cockpit. Needs a roll-up to finish his look. No idea of price yet as don't know how much rubber to mould or resin to cast for a set. Yes, 1/16th scale. All this to finish a model I had 55 years ago! But I reckon it deserves it. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Trent deck colour
    I have no doubt this question has been asked in the past but I can't seem to find the answer despite trawling through lots of posts. I am looking to identify the deck colour for a Trent Lifeboat. I would prefer an "off the shelf" solution such as car
    paints
    rather than have to get a version "mixed" Cheers Shaun
    1 year ago by Flack
    Forum
    Painting
    I have always used rattle cans from Halfords and or The Range. Beware of mixing different types of
    paints
    i.e. cellulose, acrylic and enamel. I have had a disaster with mixing
    paints
    that took weeks to strip the hull back to sort out.
    2 years ago by Flack
    Forum
    Painting
    A friend of mine (Cormorant on here) builds reasonably big models and he normally uses rattle cans from Halfords with good results. Have look at his posts as he has gone into
    paints
    here himself. Chris
    2 years ago by octman
    Response
    Seeing the light
    BTW; re your query about filler and acrylic
    paints
    :- Any 'standard' polyester type filler will do but be sure to let it cure completely so that all the 'smelly' components, including peroxide from the hardener have evaporated. For small surface nicks I often use 'Green Putty' or Revell 'Plasto'. Doesn't need mixing and is very fine and smooth and NO PONG😊 Then apply a primer to match the top coat paint you are using. happy filling, cheers Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Radio in a yacht
    Sorry Martin just read your post, I'm no expert however just to start the ball rolling with my little imput:- All orange receivers can run on anything between 3.7 to 9.6volts, The wire configuration is always:- top is signal, middle is positive and negative is bottom, if you look on one side of your receiver you will see a very small "s" embossed into plastic case denoting signal. Binding is dead easy, may I suggest take a look on YouTube under "binding orang rx" and all will be revealed (a picture
    paints
    a thousand words). Sorry I can't be of more help Martin however I'm sure we will receive more input soonπŸ‘ Norman.
    2 years ago by stormin
    Forum
    Which Paint?
    A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base
    paints
    , and had no problems. Do not use on oil based
    paints
    as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.
    2 years ago by andyhynes
    Forum
    Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
    I've started on getting the fittings fitted now the
    paints
    dried and also the sail control line has been fitted and tested.i have used 50lb clear carb fishing line for the control wire so it isn't clearly visible. Last job done today was to fit and test the rudder assembly, all's working as it shouldπŸ‘
    2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
    Forum
    What happened to the WEM
    paints
    ??
    Hi all, no sooner had I sorted out the paint chips and colours I needed White Ensign Models went the way of the Dodo and everything on what was left of their website was 'Out of stock' 😭 I know WEM was resurrected in the States, but only for photo etch. Does anyone know who, if anybody, took over their paint line? Would be most grateful for a pointer 😊 Happy modelling 😎
    3 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Thanks to you too Peter πŸ‘ Will be watching your progress also with interest. As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from spray cans, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter πŸ˜‰ I'm collecting the bits and
    paints
    for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now. Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug 😎PS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers. White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. πŸ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Sanding down.
    Hi Halfords do an excellent range in acrylic
    paints
    in good size cans, including Matt colors.additionally they will mix a specific color. Regards Kevin
    2 years ago by kevinsharpe
    Blog
    Dumas 12 Volt Motor!
    I know I could have gotten a cheaper motor. But the Dumas motor is what I'm going with! I ordered it yesterday Friday. It's a very expensive purchase for the model! $82.00 😀, so will be ordering the
    paints
    in two weeks time. Maybe go to the hobby shop to look at the
    paints
    first hand!
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    HMS HOOD by Trumpeter
    Many thanks Doug for the paint info, I notice there are 2 hellgrau on their lists, one light grey and one Baltic light grey, would that be the colour in later life of the ship? it's a pity that they are enamel
    paints
    , where lifecolour are acrylic, could you suggest the colours for my Bismarck. many thanks again, PeterπŸ‘
    2 years ago by Rookysailor
    Response
    Bollard Hieght!
    Hi Doug, All I saw was the grey, Reminded me of my Navy days! Thanks for the paint chart! it really helps a lot. The #90, Beige Green matt is what I'm looking for! I've use Tamiya
    paints
    in the past! Liked the way the paint went on smoothly on to the surface! Yes, I will be asking a lot about the LED's connection! I'll be using 3mm LED's. Steve (Cormorant). Was very kind to send me some to me. also a smoke generator which is not tested yet! Have to order the fuel for it!
    2 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    HMS HOOD by Trumpeter
    Hi Peter, 'Hellgrau' is German for light grey. And DKM means Deutsche Kriegs-Marine. UA603 /DKM50 is in the Set 1 that you have. I also have the Lifecolor Set 1 (Surface Ships) and also the Set 2, Cammo colours, these are for my U-Boat. Attached is a colour chart of the former White Ensign Colour Coats naval
    paints
    , now sold by Sovereign Hobbies in UK. See 'KM01 Hellgrau 50'. So if the Lifecolor set runs out you can restock from them πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘ Happy spraying, cheers Doug 😎 BTW: Re 'Collection'! that was only the half of it😲 I've started an Excel 'Stash Log' to keep track, I should live so long to build them all - I've come to regard some as an investment as many are originals and rare πŸ˜‰ Did I mention Cambletown, German Narvik destroyer, T45 and Illustrious in 1/350 and a Fletcher class at 1/144, Scharnhorst at 1/400 ?? 😁 NTM the original Revell 1/72 Flower Class, and a whole box load of PE to go with it - much more than is in the later 'Premium' version πŸ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Mark, here's the link to the manufacturer website. http://www.kwasny.com/en/products/ Forgot to mention, the gloss white I used is also from them, from the 'belton' series. The Primer Filler and Protection Laquer are from the 'Auto K' series. Don't know if they can send
    paints
    to UKπŸ€” Maybe they have a British distributor? look forward to pics of the Puffer πŸ‘ Doug 😎
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))
    Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car
    paints
    I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. KΓΆnigsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. πŸ‘ You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. if you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (πŸ˜‰) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.
    2 years ago by RNinMunich


    About This Website
    Terms of Service
    Privacy Policy
    Cookies used in this website are gluten free, wheat free and dairy free. By using this website you agree to our use of cookies. More Info