Forum

EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft

Most of the good stuff has gone now, most solvent based sanding sealers etc are waterbased now, (even car are going waterbased). Waterbased stuff just doesn't get the same results as the old etc (fade like mad down here in NZ sun) and are not much good if you don't want to wet your project, or later paint with acrylic enamel (solvent based) or enamel. On the other hand, I use painters (art) acrylic for some finishing work and interiors on the models. It's totally waterproof and you can mix any colour you like. I've used the metallics on the rudders and props on my HSL (even the boot topping stripe) and it's stuck really well, despite the props spinning at 15000 rpm max revs. I guess it can have a place on certain modelling jobs. John B

20 days ago by jbkiwi

Forum

EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft

Well, if we have finished discussing ladies' underwear, I would like to go on with the discussion on plan creation... Actually, paint finishes on EeZeBilts is a bit of a problem. It's true that balsa is not a good surface to paint on, and a common trick has been to cover it - with tissue, brown paper, nylons or fibreglass - and then work on that. I have always found this to be a bit fiddly and time-consuming, and prefer to get a reasonable surface with sanding sealer, then use car spray and finish off with spray lacquer. Remember to seal the inside as well - balsa can swell like anything if it absorbs water. I'm currently trying sprayed acrylic in an effort to lower the cost - they seem to work if well sealed.. Anyway, back to the design... It turns out that this hull is not a simple one to convert to an EeZeBilt. The angles on it make the shape critical to get right, and we have no measurements or any precise pictures at right angles. Still, we will do our best... Now we have got a basic hull shape, we look at it, compare with pictures and see if it looks right... When I did this, I thought that the stern should be fatter and the hull should taper towards the bow. Martin555 pointed out that the funnel should be lower and wider, and the mast should be wider... so I tweaked the hull and superstructure until it looked a bit closer... compare fig 10 with fig 11. As we develop a reasonable plan and elevation, we can start to consider cross-sections. In this case I am thinking about powering the hull with water-jets, so I think about where they will fit. Most of the hull can be a simple box structure which the egg-box design is great for - it will only need a different approach at the bow. In fig 12 you can see various stern cross-sections being tried out for jet fitting and similarity to the rear photo. A CAD package is really handy here - you can just nudge lines and angles until they look OK. When the hull shape looks like it's settled down, we can add the cross bulkheads. You can see these in fig 13. From this drawing we will be able to generate the bulkhead shapes, the deck and sub-deck and the keel, just by measurement. But only for the main part of the hull. We will leave the ways you can do EeZebilt bows for the next session...

22 days ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Hints & Tips

Would it be possible to start a topic on hints & tips in building? For instance I struggled for years with filler application , and when going through my old artist type oil etc to pass on to my kids , came across some old W&N palette knives. They work a treat from the very small to very large applications. Had bought a cheap set before leaving UK from one of those outlets that pop up from around Christmas, dug that one out and the broad and angled blades work well for the large applications. The flexible heads push the filler in very well and practically no wastage.

4 months ago by redpmg

Forum

Painting over epoxy

I have used several Halfords Aerosol spray cans on boats over the recent years. In each case I have sanded the hull down to bare wood as the boats were vintage ones and did have coats of paint on them that could not be identified. Best to use thin applications of both primer then paint then build up on that after leaving 24 hours between each coat. Another good point is that Halfords also stock plastic primer in their range which is ideal if your boat has a polystyrene hull or you have plastic fittings. Boaty😎

5 months ago by boaty

Forum

Painting white metal

I found the enamel over acrylic comment interesting I have never had a reaction between acrylic and enamel . The only reaction I have seen ( to my chagrin) was cellulose over enamel ( do not do it EVER) enamel over cellulose is fine. Acrylic not using powerful solvents tends to be safe over anything and once "set" pretty resistant to the solvents in enamel paint. However when it comes to a painting sequence I have actually used cellulose ( clear shrinking dope) followed by enamel for base colour then acrylic for details.

6 months ago by Haverlock

Forum

Painting white metal

Hi Rogal, Whatever it is (wood, fibre glass, plastic, white or any other colour metal) PRIME IT! Primers are designed to give the top coat something to stick to. Otherwise they will scratch easily and flake off especially from smooth plastic or metallic surfaces etc. Enamel or acrylic? Your choice, just make sure both are the same basis otherwise you may get a nasty reaction when you apply the top coat😲 Acrylics are usually easier to use, don't pong, and the brushes can be cleaned in warm water😊 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎

6 months ago by RNinMunich

Response

mini update

Hi Steve. The paint used by Fairey was international Oxford Blue 105, if you contact them they should send you a colour chart which you can then use as a colour reference elsewhere. if you decide to use international , it’s available from most chandlery shops

8 months ago by Brianaro

Response

First Snow!

Thanks Don, I had to search high and low for her ! It took a bit of time but well worth the wait...….

9 months ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Spray

If they are enamels like Plastikote used to be, yes, but as far as I know, Plastikote changed formulae to acrylic, which, if their brush pots were anything to go by are complete crap. I had one that reacted with itself! I complained bitterly to them and they sent me every pot of enamel they had left in the office! Martin

10 months ago by Westquay

Forum

Spray

This looks handy folks.---https://www.metals4u.co.uk/tools/c190/decorating-wood-care/c2518/-spray-/c2846/decorative-sprays/c3834?source=mailer&utm_campaign=m4u+nov+2018&utm_source=emailCampaign&utm_content=&utm_medium=email 👍

10 months ago by onetenor

Response

Spraying Again.......

Mornin' Peter, Red primer can be a good match for some anti-fouling . If you are happy with the colour - fine. BUT!! Seal the primer paint with several thin coats of matt or silk clear varnish for the reasons mentioned to Neville above! Primer is porous!! Flatten the primer with 1000 / 1500 wet n dry until your fingertips tell you the surface is good. Apply the varnish in several thin coats, flattening lightly with 2000 / 3000 w&d between coats, until you have a good sealed surface. The varnish (or lacquer) will also give some extra protection against knocks and bangs 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

10 months ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Cleaning sails, toy yachts, etc....

My wee red boat after a rub down and a file/sand on the steel keel. This morning I painted the red with HMG enamel and got the green mixed in the same make enamel by my wonderful chap at Kett's Auto . The mast came in two parts, so I did a slight scarf and glued it. When the joint is well set, I'll make a splint and set it in prior to a rub down and a good waxing. The steel (tinplate) parts came with the predictable rust, but with my selection of scrapers and chisels made of broken and worn Swiss files I was able to scrape most of it off back to reasonable shiny steel. The out of shapeness needed only a clout with a cold chisel type of bodywork tool in the right places to restore it to original shape. Loops were filed to lose most of their rust, but not replaced. They'll be Vaselined as a form of anti rust, waterproofing. I have some new 1.3mm cord coming from Caldercraft. I just hope I can remember how it was rigged. I ain't great with knots. The sails were absolutely filthy with some sort of oil based grime, but my dear bride sorted them out with Vanish and a good hand wash. Pics of those tomorrow. I love this stuff.! Martin

10 months ago by Westquay

Forum

Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'! First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss OR matt . Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models. This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard action) 😁 During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of on warships. Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin. Whether matt were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board. Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01 RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16 RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23 See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats , which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel. If you prefer acrylic try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1. See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue. Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the results👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN . BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish. Otherwise I agree with Reilly's comments👍

11 months ago by RNinMunich

Forum

I am a bit stuck as to what type of to use on my Thornycroft MTB. Do I use gloss or matt? What type of paint is suggested Acrylic, emulsion, etc? Who can supply - say - 250ml of any recommended paint as I will probably need to apply at least two coats. I have already applied sanding sealer and undercoat and now need finishing . One for under hull and t'other for topsides. Any suggestions for a supplier would be greatly appreciated.

11 months ago by Morkullen

Forum

My point was that real vessels of that era didn't get matt paint as it wasn't strictly available. They had satin or, as they called it, "non gloss". For anything. I'm not remotely interested in warships of any sort, but I do know about and they could only use what was available. Martin

11 months ago by Westquay

Forum

I use Satin enamels as they are more durable than Matt finishes, especially on the hulls, but still go over them with clear matt enamel for realism. The 'scale' appearance is the consideration. From a distance a real boat even if finished with a gloss marine enamel would not look glossy. A WW2 boat such as an MTB would definitely have a Matt finish, and always 2 coats. Working models get scuffed in use.

11 months ago by reilly4

Forum

I use enamels, always. They don't react with anything. Rustoleum do a range of colours in gloss and satin and are cheaper than any other rattle cans. I get mine from a branch of Boyes. The original was always a satin rather than a matt. Totally matt paint wasn't available then. Martin

11 months ago by Westquay

Forum

Where's our mate?...

Evenin' Peter, Thanks 😉 Not quite 100% yet but getting there. Fit enough to answer your question I think, mainly cos I just bought a bunch of RN and USN meself😁 First off, have a shufti at this link, it details all 'Measures' up to # 23 near the end of the Pacific war. There's also a colour pic of USS Kidd wearing Measure 22 which was used on Destroyer Escorts (DE) at the time. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/World_War_II_ship_camouflage_measures_of_the_United_States_Navy In 1944 it was replaced by a Dazzle pattern on the Fletchers, Measure 32, similar to RN Western Approaches pattern, until 1945 when they reverted to Measure 22 but with the revised Haze Gray. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/World_War_II_US_Navy_dazzle_camouflage_measures_31,_32_and_33:_destroyers I also attach attach a colour chart from Sovereign Hobbies who took over the White Ensign Colour Coats range of navy enamel . Have a look at page 6. They are made by Snyder & Short from authentic Navy Paint Chips apparently. I just bought a bunch of them in RN colours for my 'Plastic Magic' conversions. Get 'em here- https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea/american If you prefer acrylic have a look at the LifeColor Sets # CS24 and CS25 'US Navy WWII'. Chart and catalogue attached. get here for instance- https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/lifecolor-paint-sets/43947-us-navy-wwii-set-1 Happy painting, cheers, Doug 😎

11 months ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Gee Dee models closing down!

Sad to say that this wonderful Nottingham model shop is about to close. The owner is 87, and the manager, Malcolm Chiswick, has run the shop for over 50years. If no one buys it, the shop will close in November of this year. So, if anyone knows of someone that may be interested, please let them know. A lease is available, and the owner can be reached at: p.grain@ntlworld.com It would a sad day if it was to close permanently. Everything currently in stock is being discounted, except , and wood

11 months ago by J Barry

Forum

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale

Hi Steve, I'll see what i can do. No promises as the range of Acrylics is somewhat more limited as far as Naval colours goes. One way out is to buy some Naval Paint Chips from Snyder & Short. http://www.shipcamouflage.com/royal_navy1.htm These are taken from the original chips of admiralty used to mix the Colour Coats enamel colours. Enables mixing to suit from more basic 'standard' colours. Bit of 'mix it and see' involved. Testors acrylics may be a better bet. They do some Naval colours. Also recommended by the HMS Hood Association. For instance; this would be good for hull and upperworks https://www.hobbylinc.com/testors-model-master-507-c-light-gray-r-n-1:2-oz-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-4870 This for the decks? https://www.hobbylinc.com/testors-model-master-light-sea-gray-fs36307-1:2-oz-hobby-and-model-acrylic-paint-4759 There are also some excellent tips on painting scale warships here😉 http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/tips/hoodpaint.htm I've just been studying this for my 1/350 Hood, and just ordered a batch of suitable Colour Coats to paint her 'As Sunk' 😭 Cheers, Doug 😎

11 months ago by RNinMunich

Forum

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale

Hi Doug Just had a look at Life Colour which on first sight would suit me better with the acrylic . Here is my first attempt at scratch building. Nothing glued down yet as I have still got plenty to do before I can put the deck in place. The funnels are cigar tubes and I have a smoker in 2 and 4. I decided to lash out on 3D printed main armament but I still need to make the gun shields. Thanks for your help and advice so far and best of luck with your 1/350 - hope you will keep me updated on progress. Cheers Steve

11 months ago by cormorant

Forum

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale

Great Steve👍 Will look forward to that, bon chance mon ami, Doug 😎 BTW: 'Life Colour' might be worth a look, they do several navy and sets from various eras as well as cammo and weathering sets.

11 months ago by RNinMunich

Forum

HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale

Hi John, Attached is the old Colour Coats Naval chart form White ensign Models. it's based on original navy Paint Chips apparently. Of course precisely how the colours look on your device will depend on the settings of the display! But it gives you a comparison of the colours. Here's a brief history of Cambletown, ex Buchanan D131 if you want to build the USN version. https://www.wikiwand.com/en/HMS_Campbeltown_(I42) From this it can be seen the she operated either in the Western Approaches or on the West Africa convoy routes. So I think that Medium grey (RN02) is a bit dark, more suited to North Atlantic convoy duty perhaps? I would go for Light grey RN03 or M23 Light Admiralty grey for the hull and upperworks with Medium greenish grey RN06 for the decks. If you want to go 'Cammo pattern' the Western Approaches colours for this are also in the chart. The colour coats are now sold by Sovereign Hobbies https://www.sovereignhobbies.co.uk/collections/colourcoats-sea/british I just bought a batch from their German dealer; NNT Modell 😊 Some may not be available (Discontinued) but we can probably find near equivalents; I have several 'conversion charts' for Revell, Humbrol, Tamiya etc. My dealer still had a few tins of a Discontinued colour so it's worth asking😉 Have fun, cheers, Doug 😎

11 months ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...

Is it a silver finish you want? or chrome finish, if chrome is what you want, try ALCLAD , saw them at Telford IPMS show last November, and decided to try some on a club 500, you have to spray the base coat of black, and then the candy silver over it, really gives it a chrome more than silver finish, I think you can get it on Ebay, not expensive and worth a go👍 Peter😊

12 months ago by Rookysailor

Forum

three model live steam boats for sale

Mornin' Maurice, No not yet. So far I've cleaned and primed the hull and bought new ESCs, 50 calibre MGs with mounts and ammo belts from Shapeways, scale crew members and Pacific cammo , Oh and the 37mm field gun for the foredeck. Then I got tangled up in a restoration and conversion from static to RC of an ancient Billing Boats Danish fish cutter. 😲 Right now I'm trying to figure out how to fit my renovated and converted Taycol Target motor plus battery and usual electronics into the small hull! Have been considering spraying some colour on the PTB hull the next few days, while it's still warm and dry outside😉 Then I can set about refitting the shafts and rudders. What are you up to? Apart from sniffing round steamers!😁 All the best, Doug 😎

1 year ago by RNinMunich

Response

Fairly Hunsman renovation part 1

Good thinking. if it helps, The Fairey Owners Club www.faireyownersclub.co.uk has a lot of info and reference pictures on these boats and Charles Lawrence wrote Fairey in Context and Fifty Years of Fairey Raceboats czczcz@me.com (that is right). The original boats I’m told were painted with international Oxford Blue 105 and White 905. I purchased these from a yacht chandlery.

1 year ago by Brianaro

Media

Dumas USS Crockett

Asheville Class gun boat model is 51” long weighs 22 lbs. hull covered with 2 layers of 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. All plywood and balsa construction finished with fiberglass resin and Model Master . Working radar mast, turrets, desiel sound, whopper sound, general quarters sound, sierene. Power is MACK Drives 12 volt system 2 x 2 6volt 3000 nimh each drive. Very fast in the water.

1 year ago by Mikep

Directory

(Yacht) Adele

Model is from Dumas kit hull covered with 2 layers or 2 oz. fiberglass cloth and resin. Deck mahogany covered with 3/4 oz. cloth and resin, painted with klass Coat epoxy . Running lights and cabin light. Built with removable interchangeable bridge windscreen or windscreen with roof. (Motor: MACK 5045) (ESC: MACK 35) (8/10)

1 year ago by Mikep

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Thanks, Doug. I really like the idea of simply using the exact same white LED for everything, including all of the colored LEDs currently on the boat. Coloring each LED the appropriate colors is the ideal solution. Glass lacquer is a great idea, plus Tamiya makes a translucent or semi-opaque acrylic paint available in many colors. are ideal because I can control the depth of color simply by applying more coats. Another plus is that I can replace the somewhat cheesy looking port & starboard sidelights with more realistic ones. I like it! Will you please rework things as necessary to account for white LEDs as I’ve described? Things are coming together beautifully. Thanks, Pete

1 year ago by PittsfieldPete

Response

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))

Hi Doug. After spraying, how long is the minimum time before removing the masking tape. Acrylic used. Thanks.😉

1 year ago by MouldBuilder

Forum

46Firefloat Mk2 paint

Unless described as flat, paint was more often a brighter satin than matt and rarely actual gloss. White will always have been an off white as the components of were such that it was not possible to get a really bright white. I know that for a fact as my grandad always made his own and until PEP in the mid 60s (Plastic Emulsion Paint) there was no such thing as brilliant or appliance white. Unfortunately getting an decent off white is not easy these days since Plastikote went acrylic and their previously excellent started eating themselves on recoating. I now use enamels exclusively. They are densely pigmented, flexible and modern enamels dry pretty quickly. I am using a black enamel primer on my Crash Tender, which I will then spray with black "gloss" from the same range, which, once thinned with white spirit, will dry a little less than glossy. I still don't have a matt brick red for the undersides, but it can be made matt-ish with a careful rub down with 1000 grit wet and dry used wet and soapy, but be careful not to sand through, so very lightly does it, even 1000 grit can cut well when new. Decks were said to be Cerrux Light Deck Grey, anti-slip, which means a textured surface. That would be darker looking due to the surface texture's way with the light. The cabin sides were described as "smooth", i.e. same as the decks but not anti-slip. The roofs? Well, on Vosper's drawing "white" is crossed through and "Grey" written in. But, some pics do look white, the best pics look darker by a whisker than the sides and the roofs are clearly textured as they show evidence, as do the decks, of filth which will sit in the texture. You choose. NOBODY has yet given us chapter and verse. The fact is, an already very handsome boat looks so very pretty with white roofs. But they too should be off white if you can get it! Good luck. Fittings, btw can be had from SLEC in Watton in white metal. Basically the old Yeoman fittings, masters now owned by IP Engineering who bought them to cast when they owned Vintage Model Boat Company. Now they've sold that to SLEC, but I don't think SLEC have white metal casting facilities, so probably cast by Ivor still. I have just had a set for my birthday and they're excellent. They do need careful cleaning up as in mould lines need to be filed/scraped/sanded to a decent finish and then given good primered surface. No hook though, but it does include nav and riding lights. This site also has masts for sale in plastic, but I made my own in brass as I will the hook and davit. I have also just had a set of crew figures cast from my patterns and they will be available soon...a driver(Helm), a boss with binoculars and a lazy slob laying around in the after cockpit. Needs a roll-up to finish his look. No idea of price yet as don't know how much rubber to mould or resin to cast for a set. Yes, 1/16th scale. All this to finish a model I had 55 years ago! But I reckon it deserves it. Martin

1 year ago by Westquay

Forum

Trent deck colour

I have no doubt this question has been asked in the past but I can't seem to find the answer despite trawling through lots of posts. I am looking to identify the deck colour for a Trent Lifeboat. I would prefer an "off the shelf" solution such as car rather than have to get a version "mixed" Cheers Shaun

1 year ago by Flack

Forum

Painting

I have always used rattle cans from Halfords and or The Range. Beware of mixing different types of i.e. cellulose, acrylic and enamel. I have had a disaster with mixing that took weeks to strip the hull back to sort out.

1 year ago by Flack

Forum

Painting

A friend of mine (Cormorant on here) builds reasonably big models and he normally uses rattle cans from Halfords with good results. Have look at his posts as he has gone into here himself. Chris

1 year ago by octman

Response

Seeing the light

BTW; re your query about filler and acrylic :- Any 'standard' polyester type filler will do but be sure to let it cure completely so that all the 'smelly' components, including peroxide from the hardener have evaporated. For small surface nicks I often use 'Green Putty' or Revell 'Plasto'. Doesn't need mixing and is very fine and smooth and NO PONG😊 Then apply a primer to match the top coat paint you are using. happy filling, cheers Doug 😎

1 year ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Radio in a yacht

Sorry Martin just read your post, I'm no expert however just to start the ball rolling with my little imput:- All orange receivers can run on anything between 3.7 to 9.6volts, The wire configuration is always:- top is signal, middle is positive and negative is bottom, if you look on one side of your receiver you will see a very small "s" embossed into plastic case denoting signal. Binding is dead easy, may I suggest take a look on YouTube under "binding orang rx" and all will be revealed (a picture a thousand words). Sorry I can't be of more help Martin however I'm sure we will receive more input soon👍 Norman.

1 year ago by stormin

Forum

Which Paint?

A couple of years ago i scratch built a 1/24 scale Vosper Long boat MTB 510. I spray painted the hull and super structure with Halfords white and gray primer. The Hull was given coat of Matt clear laquer Spray (Plasticote). The deck and super structure were also coated in a matt laquer spray. This product was Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt Laquer. I have used this product before on acrylic base , and had no problems. Do not use on oil based as it will crinkle the surface. The Plasticote product i used on the Hull was fine at the time but a couple of years on the surface has become crazed. so i will have to repaint the complete hull sometime in the future. Can any one out there recommend a paint combination or product that is satisfactory, and will not craze like an old masters oil painting from the 1500s.

1 year ago by andyhynes

Forum

Bristol pilot cutter mascotte

I've started on getting the fittings fitted now the dried and also the sail control line has been fitted and tested.i have used 50lb clear carb fishing line for the control wire so it isn't clearly visible. Last job done today was to fit and test the rudder assembly, all's working as it should👍

1 year ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

What happened to the WEM ??

Hi all, no sooner had I sorted out the paint chips and colours I needed White Ensign Models went the way of the Dodo and everything on what was left of their website was 'Out of stock' 😭 I know WEM was resurrected in the States, but only for photo etch. Does anyone know who, if anybody, took over their paint line? Would be most grateful for a pointer 😊 Happy modelling 😎

2 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Sanding down.

Thanks to you too Peter 👍 Will be watching your progress also with interest. As you have an airbrush you can buy concentrated paint of the exact specific colour you want, don't have to rely on 'well it looks similar' from spray cans, and you will have much more control over spray area and shape, overspray and above all an even spray pressure. Compressor with air tank highly recommended for the latter 😉 I'm collecting the bits and for my ELCO PT Boat but I'm determined to finish the restoration / upgrade of Dad's old Sea Scout first. I hope he's looking down and is happy with what I've done with his boat up to now. Spent yesterday making a mahogany aft deck / hatch and sub-frame for it. Now more sanding and varnishing!! Happy painting, Doug 😎PS: before you start with the colour coats on your boat I can highly recommend that you apply a coat or two of primer / filler, not just the thin normal primers. White primer would be better under the light Pacific Green and grey under the antifouling red. 😉

1 year ago by RNinMunich

Response

Sanding down.

Hi Halfords do an excellent range in acrylic in good size cans, including Matt colors.additionally they will mix a specific color. Regards Kevin

1 year ago by kevinsharpe

Blog

Dumas 12 Volt Motor!

I know I could have gotten a cheaper motor. But the Dumas motor is what I'm going with! I ordered it yesterday Friday. It's a very expensive purchase for the model! $82.00 😤, so will be ordering the in two weeks time. Maybe go to the hobby shop to look at the first hand!

1 year ago by figtree7nts

Forum

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter

Many thanks Doug for the paint info, I notice there are 2 hellgrau on their lists, one light grey and one Baltic light grey, would that be the colour in later life of the ship? it's a pity that they are enamel , where lifecolour are acrylic, could you suggest the colours for my Bismarck. many thanks again, Peter👍

1 year ago by Rookysailor

Response

Bollard Hieght!

Hi Doug, All I saw was the grey, Reminded me of my Navy days! Thanks for the paint chart! it really helps a lot. The #90, Beige Green matt is what I'm looking for! I've use Tamiya in the past! Liked the way the paint went on smoothly on to the surface! Yes, I will be asking a lot about the LED's connection! I'll be using 3mm LED's. Steve (Cormorant). Was very kind to send me some to me. also a smoke generator which is not tested yet! Have to order the fuel for it!

1 year ago by figtree7nts

Forum

HMS HOOD by Trumpeter

Hi Peter, 'Hellgrau' is German for light grey. And DKM means Deutsche Kriegs-Marine. UA603 /DKM50 is in the Set 1 that you have. I also have the Lifecolor Set 1 (Surface Ships) and also the Set 2, Cammo colours, these are for my U-Boat. Attached is a colour chart of the former White Ensign Colour Coats naval , now sold by Sovereign Hobbies in UK. See 'KM01 Hellgrau 50'. So if the Lifecolor set runs out you can restock from them 😊👍 Happy spraying, cheers Doug 😎 BTW: Re 'Collection'! that was only the half of it😲 I've started an Excel 'Stash Log' to keep track, I should live so long to build them all - I've come to regard some as an investment as many are originals and rare 😉 Did I mention Cambletown, German Narvik destroyer, T45 and Illustrious in 1/350 and a Fletcher class at 1/144, Scharnhorst at 1/400 ?? 😁 NTM the original Revell 1/72 Flower Class, and a whole box load of PE to go with it - much more than is in the later 'Premium' version 😉

1 year ago by RNinMunich

Response

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))

Hi Mark, here's the link to the manufacturer website. http://www.kwasny.com/en/products/ Forgot to mention, the gloss white I used is also from them, from the 'belton' series. The Primer Filler and Protection Laquer are from the 'Auto K' series. Don't know if they can send to UK🤔 Maybe they have a British distributor? look forward to pics of the Puffer 👍 Doug 😎

1 year ago by RNinMunich

Response

The Lone Ranger Rides Again or Hull Finishing ;-))

Hi Mark, thankyou 😊 The paint is, not surprisingly for me, from a German manufacturer: Peter Kwasny Gruppe. They also make the pro car I sometimes use. It's article number 320 078. Königsblau / Royal Blue. The can top is darker than the finish actually turns out! To me it's lighter than Royal Blue but I'm happy with it. I also used - the white primer from the same company; article number 320 411, before that light grey filler primer, # 233 032, and finally clear high gloss protective lacquer # 633 017. The blue and the white primer I found in a local building supplies store under the name 'Hit Color Decospray'! They are specified for indoor and outdoor use; emission class A+. 👍 You might find something similar in your local DIY shop. I think your Puffer would look superb in this colour. if you want a darker shade you might try a thin coat of matt or satin black after the primer? The primer filler and lacquer I bought online some time ago as part of a Pro Scratch Repair kit for my last car. Now what can I do with the rest of the Toyota Navajo Red ??? I sent them the paint code from my car registration and they mixed up an absolute perfect match and delivered in about 10 days 😊 I'll dig in the archive for the web link. Ciao, Doug 😎 PS I think you're right, I'll go for Gold (😉) and hope I don't mess up the hull! Tamiya tape should help.

1 year ago by RNinMunich

Response

Port lights in place!

Hmm! I see where you're coming from Ed, but bear in mind that matt have a habit of developing shiny spots wherever they are touched! 🤔 Wear and tear,servicing and cleaning etc. I would use the satin (semi-matt) paint and finish off with matt clear varnish for protection, also UV protection! 👍 I use the Lord Nelson varnish for that. http://www.krickshop.de/Products/-Accessories/-for-Shipmodels/Lord-Nelson-Varnish/Lord-Nelson-Klarlack-matt-300ml-Spraydose.htm?shop=krick_e&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=80121&p=435 Cheers Doug 😎 PS Sorry to hear about the glue 🤔 Oh well! There's always Sellotape 😉 Or as Grandad used to say "If all else fails - use bl***y great nails" 😉

1 year ago by RNinMunich

Response

Port lights in place!

Hi Doug, I like the green! Now I don't want any shine what so ever though! Hi Marky, I'm going to take a look on my side see if I can bring up the link! I was able to bring up the website. But all it was was about house 😭! Thanks guys👍 I'm a keep on looking......

1 year ago by figtree7nts

Response

Port lights in place!

Johnstone do a colour called crocodile which looks a good match ,for some reason couldnt get the link to work.Cheers Marky

1 year ago by marky