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Started on the Stringers and Chines, some of the stringers are Spruce, 1/4" x 1/4" , one cracked on the bow curvature, not immediately it was glued and pinned, but about an hour after, should have laminated these spruce stringers as in 1/8" x 1/4" times 2. Another one has cracked since but they are repairable..
Mixed up a weak solution of PVA and water and painted the rest, hoping this will soften them up and be more pliable. Started on the transom, this is angled with a sharp centre line, but there was a lot of off cuts of Obechie lying around, so it was
with a curve, first Modelers License applied. A few more dry fits and the bow and transom were assembled up, using stringers as alignment tools, anything will do in these instances even strips of ply. Some of the upper-works combing has been fitted around the transom area. Muddy....
3 years ago by muddy
After a long lay-off, not requested or wanted. The call of the sawdust was here again.. Looking back at the Gentlemans Cruiser, i decided to start afresh with its sister ship, Elizabeth.
She is a hard chine construction so was hoping to get her to water in record time. But the gremlins set in when the hull had to be skinned.. The bottom skins did not want to play ball, or maybe it was me on a not so good day, but persevered and then
the bottom in Obechie 6mm x 3mm, and then fitted the side skins vertical grained, and i must admit they fell on, no grunting and moaning with the hull frame in a half nelson trying to bash home a few pins, it was like hanging wallpaper..
The basic hiull is not as drawing with built up bulkheads but the keel and bulkheads are 5mm ply. Chines are 3/8" x 1/8" spruce and Obechie, obechie to the outer edges, easier to work.
2 years ago by muddy
Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
My latest project, a 1/24 scale MA/SB is currently taking shape.
The vessel is based upon the 63ft BPBCo launch and I understand some had
There is nothing I like better than planking a deck but I can find no reference to MA/SBs having anything other than metal decks.
My recommended reference book is Caostal Craft History Vol.2 which only tells me that
decks were usually varnished whilst metal decks were usually painted grey.
Can anyone assist please?
2 years ago by cormorant
Anteno 2 tug
I feel I have to comment on your Anteo Tug, that has to be one of the neatest
hulls I have seen in a while, and the paint job on the hull is quite incredible, wow. I built this kit back in the 1970s and it definitely is and was really good value for money, none of your white metal rubbish, near enough everything was brass and good quality. I opted for the authentic look and fitted a steam plant into the hull, not an easy job to cut down and strengthen all those ribs, but worth it in the end. Enjoy your hobby.Regards.Gary.
1 year ago by GaryLC
I'm looking into building a
hull and need some advice on how to make the hull water tight.
Dave Van Daley
1 year ago by Davevand
funnel mounts and deck hatches
Fitted the "legs" to the wheel house so now at correct height when on the deck.
Funnel mounts done (just need to finish the funnels, workout what holes to drill and then mount the funnels to the mounts)
so we added 2 hatches to each mount, painted white with brass hinges.
the one placed between the Cowl vents is open, the one at the back is closed.
as we only had "closed" hatches put a triangle shaped bit of plastic under the "open" hatch to prop open.
When dry mounting the Cowl Vents found an issue with the rear vents as they are suppose to be higher than the wheelhouse and the ones i got where not, so found 2 wooden cotton reels the right height and turned then down to the correct width using the pillar drill as a lathe, painted them up and then placed the Cowl vents on those.
also painted the "flat" vents chrome and stuck those to the mounts as well.
to finish off these all we have to do is fit the breather pipes and ladder to funnels and fix the funnels to the mounts (allowing for the front funnel to have the hole for the smoke generator.
Started work on the 2 deck hatches using 1mm plastic sheet.
Made the 2 housings up and the
and varnished them ready for the hatches.
found out i had only enough hatches to do 1 housing, so drilled a 7mm hole in the hatch for a 10mm brass porthole, painted white with brass hinges.
once dry stuck them on the housing ready to go.
(ordered some more hatches to i can complete the other housing lol)
one last thing was to start on the wheel box.
Found in "The Works" in town a heart shaped box which was almost perfect for a mold for the thin wood that was steamed to shape and then held on the heart to fix the curve in place.
next to do is to make up the front and back of the wheel boxes and stick the "curved" wood to that
1 year ago by barryskeates
Made up, painted and
up the engine cover and the 2 funnel stands.
Funnel stands need to have the Cowl vents, funnels, hatches and tow mounts fitted to them. Need top make up, create, paint all of those first of course😁
also looking at a steam generator to go into the front Funnel so a hole will be drilled into the mount for that as well
1 year ago by barryskeates
(Other) Lady Marian
This Drifter was a Marvon Models Kit and was incredible value for the money, a double
plank on frame hull, and detailed instructions and good quality timber and fittings. As the engine was a four-stroke and silenced, plus the fact it was ticking over at very few revs, it made less noise than your average electric motor. Plus we were not trying too hard to save the planet in those good old days. (Motor: OS. 6.5cc Marine 4 stroke.) (ESC: servo controlled) (10/10)
1 year ago by GaryLC
(Working Vessel) MV DUBURG
scratch built model from Jim Pottinger plans - I made this several years ago - plank on frame and the hull is double
. 1:96 scale/ (Motor: MFA 550) (5/10)
1 year ago by JOHN
I'm assuming this will be a
hull in which case would it not have been better to build the hull upside down?
1 year ago by steve-d
Motor Anti-Submarine Boat MA/SB
I have established that the decks on these vessels were
and usually painted RN Dark Grey Blue B15.
Whilst I can source this paint in small amounts, typically 17ml, I am unable to find it in larger amounts.
The boat is 82cm long x 22cm beam.
Can anyone help please?
1 year ago by cormorant
The deck planking.
The kit I’m constructing is a pre-production prototype and consequently it does not have the ‘laser etched planking’ feature that has been subsequently introduced in the final production kits on the ‘upper’ deck and the ‘well’ deck.
This is of no concern to me because I think I prefer to do my own planking anyway but I do have to do a bit of preparatory ‘laying out’ of the deck pattern to ensure that it’s symmetrical and laid in a pleasing fashion.
I have chosen to use 1.6 mm x 9.5 mm obeche hardwood strip-wood (from SLEC) for this with a thin black plasticard caulking between the planks. This is what I did when I constructed the VMW Fire Tender and the result was very effective and visually pleasing.
Obeche has a pleasing grain, takes stain very easily and is also considerably cheaper than mahogany which I feel would be far too ‘dark red’ when finally lacquered.
Because I wanted an outer curved plank around the hull edge I had to cut this from 1.6mm obeche sheet to the correct shape and width as it would be impossible to bend a strip to this extreme curve. These also needed a section trimmed out to allow the bow gunwales to be positioned correctly.
Once both sides were cut and shaped I could then form the ply gunwales to the correct curve by my heating and bending process and glued them down to the deck. I understand that on the production kits these gunwales are now incorporated into the side skins which will make the construction a bit easier.
The remaining outer planks on the hull edges were made from straight lengths of obeche but required some easing cuts so that they could be bent to the curve of the hull. Hopefully these cuts will not be too noticeable in the finished deck.
When all the edge planks were glued in place I temporarily laid out the obeche planking strips with a thin strip of black plasticard as caulking and all held in place with masking tape. The centre plank was arranged to lie over the centre line from bow to stern. The setting out of the planks in this manner confirmed that the layout worked as intended and so I began fixing down the planking from the centre plank of the hull outwards with a fast bonding superglue and the process proved to be quite quick to complete. The side deck planks were equally straightforward but did require some to be carefully shaped in a tapered fashion at each end to fill the remaining gaps.
The rear deck was also
by working out from the centre plank and thankfully the planking layout matched and followed the bow deck planking perfectly.
The surplus plasticard ‘caulking’ was then trimmed flush to the planks with a very sharp chisel and the entire deck rubbed down with my sanding plate until it was all perfectly smooth.
For those building this model that don’t feel confident enough to do ‘real planking’ will probably want to make use of the laser etched planking on the ply deck panels to achieve a similar result with very minimal effort, but I quite like the challenge of doing it the hard way and the benefit of a slightly better finish.
1 year ago by robbob
Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats.
My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers,
and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions.
I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
1 year ago by reilly4
Fitting the rubbing strakes.
Before I can apply the final coats of epoxy on the hull I need to fit the two rubbing strakes.
I started with the bottom rubbing strake which runs along the chine where the side skins and bottom skins meet. The strakes meet the external keel at the bow and also extend across the stern.
I used a length of square section of obeche which needed a gentle curve towards the bow, rather than steam the wood I soaked it in water for a few minutes to soften it and then used a heat gun while bending the strip gently to the required curve.
When the wood had cooled and dried the bend was set I did a test fit and drilled very fine holes through the strip so that the modelling pins I use to hold the piece in place would not split the wood.
A 30 minute epoxy was used to fit the strakes on both sides of the hull and stern.
Above this bottom strake is a second rubbing strake and this also meets the keel at the bow and runs across the stern, I used a broader and thinner obeche strip for this and it was prepared and fixed in the same way.
The final pieces to fit will be the gunwales which run around the hull where the sides meet the deck but I will not fit them until I have
2 years ago by robbob
Wood planking onto a fiberglass hull
Hi chaps, a very happy new year to you all. I have been given a fiberglass hulled boat it has a nice wood deck and cabin. My question is. Is it or can the hull be
to suit the deck planking. Jim Dogged.
2 years ago by jimdogge
Julieth 4 French fishing boat
As the owner of two Hellen fishing boats, I was looking for something with better access, but, about the same size.
I found the French version of the Hellen.
Larger hatch and a raised section forward of the wheelhouse.
Also this is my first strip
boat, I picked up an IKEA wooden blind for $5au with a 100 strips of 3mm by 25mm and 1100mm long.
2 years ago by canabus
Pretend deck planking
My sailboat will have a birch ply deck which I would like to mark making it look like it is
What is the best method?
2 years ago by steve-d
Pretend deck planking
What went wrong? 😲
1. Drawing on deck planking, i.e. on a veneer or thin ply-
Why/how did it go wrong?
Surely since the planks are all 'parallel curves' all you need to do is make a curve template in plasticard from the plan. Then at a few strategic points along the plank length mark the widths of the planks.
Set the template along these points and 'Bob's yer Uncle - Fanny's yer Aunt' 😉
Mind you; doing it that way the 'curious grain of the planks' would betray the fiddle🤔
2. 'what type of strip wood -
Any very close grained type.
3. How to glue it!? Any thin, spreadable waterproof wood glue!
4. Gap? Max 0.5mm perhaps. Ca 10 to 1 ratio.
5. 'How do you secure the bent planks whilst the glue dries?
Modelling pins at strategic points along the plank.
Assumes planks are pre-shaped by steaming!! See 6. 😉
6. 'Do I need to steam the planks? - YES!
As mentioned above; make a template defining the curve required.
From this make a jig of ca 5mm x 10mm in which you can set the steamed planks to cool and set to the shape required.
To allow for the so called 'spring back' make the jig with a slightly sharper curve than the actual deck curve. When fitting the planks to the deck it's easier to 'push them out' than to try to increase the curvature.
Finally; mark on the deck base the plank widths at strategic points along the plank length as alignment points. Glue planks alternately left/right (OK port/starboard😉) using modelling pins to hold in place until the glue is fully cured. For the 'gaps' There are various solutions in Build Blogs on this site. One that I like is the use of thin black card.
When the whole deck is
and properly cured sand lightly (ca 240 grit).
7. 'weathered teak' there are various suppliers of teak stain and also deck weathering stains; e.g. Jotika stain, Lifecolor Washes for Hulls and Wooden Decks, set part no. LP04, which includes Wooden deck darkener and Shadower, amongst other useful weathering pigments.
Google Lifecolor and you'll surely find some UK distributors.
Enough answers for enough questions!? 😁
Hope this provides some inspiration, Cheers, Doug 😎
2 years ago by RNinMunich
(Working Vessel) Gwyneth
I have never added to my fleet by buying in before, but looking at the Bring and Buy stall at the Blackpool show recently I couldn't resist this little boat. I like fishing boats anyway, but this boat was beautifully built, clinker on frame,
decks, good standard of woodwork, altogether, a worthy addition to my fleet. I sailed her for the first time today and was well pleased with her performance. (5/10)
2 years ago by Nerys
''Surfury'' Stern Name
Thanks Vortex - lovely moving shots - it takes me back to the 70's when I saw the craft in action and had the privilege of photographing it on land. if anyone would like any detail photos please contact me. My humble photos attached, in its painting stage. Briefly, 27 in hull, (from drgs sent to me by Renato Levi) double diagonally
. Detail is important for me but very time consuming, but, that's the enjoyment of modelling!
I hope to have it in the water (our local pond) early 2018.
2 years ago by luckybill
(Working Vessel) Kingfisher
Built from plans downloaded on the internet. Hull is
with a wood deck
over ply. The superstructure is also made in wood, mostly 3mm ply. (ESC: viper 15) (8/10)
2 years ago by solo1274
If you intend to stain the wood don't use sanding sealer first as the name suggests it seals so your stain won't take. as for simulated planking I suggest you sand the deck as smooth as possible (down to 1000 grit paper) and the using a scalpel type blade score the deck lines, but be careful as any slip will show on the final deck. After scoring the lines use a stain to rub over the deck and immediately remove the excess with a cloth, the stain will have more effect in the scores thus showing deck lines. When dry remove any excess with white spirit and leave to thoroughly dry, then sand again. This should leave you with a
deck look which can now be sealed followed by coats of lacquer - Halfords do a clear lacquer. I suggest you try on a piece of scrap ply first.
2 years ago by mturpin013
Darby One Design hydro...
Hi all, here's progress on the Darby One Design. Got these pics just before it started peeing down, so no Chris-Craft pics.
Fitted a brushless outrunner I found in a box. Might work, might not...
Home made prop shaft/tube, home made off-set rudder.
balsa top cover to keep weight down.
1/6th scale 26"long, 10" beam.
Thick grey cellulose primer to act as a light filler for scratches, etc.
2 years ago by Westquay
ASR 64ft R/C VID 2
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip
balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .
2 years ago by jbkiwi
Emma C Berry Schooner
Scratch built from old kit plans but
and fibreglassed rather than balsa sheeted as in the original. Modified to fit a removable keel. Winch and continuous loop sail control fitted under deck.
2 years ago by alan20
Part1 research information
From the construction hand book:-
Decking shall be single layer of mahogany plywood, approximately 9/16 inch thick, installed in general accordance with plan, BuShips No. PT486-S1106-411193, subject to development of satisfactory material.
Note. I have seen photos of some perhaps later ELCO 80s with
62 degrees hull planking angle not 45 degrees as many have used.
stern transom at 12 degree angle approximately.
Prop shafts of real boat.
All three propellers turned in the same direction clockwise looking from rear, not the greatest configuration for a model boat.
propshaft angles are around 10 degrees.
The centre shaft is at a larger angle to the side ones.
The centre prop shaft angle is 11 degrees and the wing prop shafts are 9 degrees.
Using these angles may restrict your propeller selection.
The centre shaft appears from hull further aft than the side shafts but the propellers are all at the same distance from the stern or transom.
2 years ago by CB90
On the original kit, there were no portholes or windows. it was all done by transfers. Grey pieces of paper, slid onto the cabin sides.
I cut the holes to the shape of the transfers.
the sides around the window frames, from deck to roof. Then I used some old cd cases, to cut and shape the window glass. it worked quit well.
2 years ago by East-RN
Started on the bottom skins, these were removed and obechie
instead. Checking the furniture, motors propshafts and props.
2 years ago by muddy
wheelhouse amd bridge
I don't have any photo's of the building of this, so I will try to explain.
I cut all the pieces for the wheelhouse out of 1mm plasticard, the pieces were then fitted together with masking tape to make sure that they all fitted neatly together. The windows were then cut out of Perspex and their positions marked and put aside.
The floor of the wheelhouse was
along with the rear wall, the five side pieces were then wooded (for want of a better word) light oak for the frames with teak for the infills, the windows were checked to make sure they still fitted.
The whole lot was fitted together with masking tape and glue run down the seams with a small brush.
After drying the outside of the wheelhouse was wooded 😁 over lapping the windows by a couple of thou, the windows were glued in place with canopy glue.
Aft of the wheelhouse are the battery boxes, these were made out of plasticard with doors made out of wood, kiss buttons used for the door knobs.
Two sliding doors were made out of wood, small plastic channel
for the runners.
The bridge was made using the same principal as the boat deck.
2 years ago by AlanP
(Pleasure Craft) Beachbaby
This was another own build with idea based on a 1960's Straight Runner called Beachcomber. My rebuild and plans were upgraded to modern materials like Depron Foam for the hull, Lite ply for the cabin, Brushless power and a traditional
deck. it turned out beautiful and quite a few plan copies have been sold. Full build article was published in July issue of Model Boats mag. (Motor: Black Turnigy 2830 b/l) (ESC: Sea Commander 30 Amp) (10/10)
2 years ago by ronrees
Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
Hello all have got some more of the rigging points completed and had to re-do the sail control line after dropping my snips onto the line and it caught the edge and nicked it so had to be replaced as no doubt would have snapped once under strain.
The ships boat is coming on nicely , have got the stern
now and have made a start on cleaning up the glue overspill and sanding it down before fitting the floor and seats .
Once finished I will be painting the outside of the hull to match the main hull and varnishing the inside with a yacht varnish.
2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
Billing boats, which took me 3 years to build.Hull was
and theh fibre glass. Boat has full functional remote with seperate port starboard control,rudder and bow thruster. full inside and mast lighting.
2 years ago by Neville1
Bristol pilot cutter mascotte
the ships boat continued
today i have finished cutting out the inner of the ribs with my tungsten rod saw.
these where filed and sanded with 250 grit and 2500 grit sandpaper.
i have dry test fit each of the ribs to be sure of a square true fit before they will be glued.
tomorrow i will be making a jig to hold the keel and ribs while the glue goes of and to keep the frame square till
pic 1 is of the rod saw used
pic 2 is of the ribs after being filed and sanded
pic 3 & 4 is of the dry test fit
2 years ago by kmbcsecretary
I have not
a hull before. Read and watched YouTube posts. So now it is time to give it a try.
2 years ago by Ron
Nor Star 'Wave Princess'
i have one with
deck and red and white hull and red cabins with white roofs made 45 + years ago need to get it out and restore it to fast electric as it had a black head web 5 cc in originally and our club dose not allow ic boats
2 years ago by Bezzo1951
It’s been a long day!
My instructions had the planking stop at the stern hull transom boards. I
the hull over the boards to make a nicer finish.
2 years ago by Bobatsea
(Pleasure Craft) Hathor
Scratch built scale model of one of the restored wherries managed by the Wherry Trust. Model clinker
with balsa. (5/10)
3 years ago by Gascoigne
Progress 12th January
Bridge structure nearing completion. Railings need some straightening and windows glazed. I assume the decks would be
. This is one difficult unit to build! Anyone confirm that?
3 years ago by Gdaynorm
Clearing out my fleet!
Job lot, one buyer only! I need the garage space back!
3 x Radio 10 Raters - two have 1 rig & winches, 2 FG & 1 Wood
1 x Complete IOM - 1 Rig & whirlwind winch FG
2 x IOM hulls only - 1
& 1 very light FG & carbon fin
1 x Marblehead - complete FG Red - 1 x rig winch rx
hull 58" (6M ?) Graham Bantock 1 Rig & winch
1 x 1950's A-Boat (FG & Huge!) Rigging very old & original
2 x Hulls & original mould for 50's A-Boat + 3 x steel keels
1 x Victoria Class - Rigging in peices as I was going to CF it.
1 x Another kit in a box 675 class or something?
1 x Fleetwood Flyer - two suits no radio gear
Various Futaba radios, servos & other oddments. May also throw in a couple of old air-planes. A rig for measuring the IOM hulls. An old Tony Abel winch... Serious clearout, may find more bits.
It's not that modern & some will need a bit of fettling but grab yourself a substantial number of models! Difficult to get pictures as the garage is rammed full,but I have a few
I am asking a reasonable £500 for the lot.
Buyer to collect from Burnham, South Bucks nr Jcn 7 M4
3 years ago by PhilCo
(Other) Andree v
Purchased as an abandoned project, in fact not even started, price reflected this as it was cheap. it is a Robbe St Germain I believe no longer available. This is about the eighth model I have built and I reckon the most rewarding, lots of opportunities to personalise the ship. Lack of plans from the seller made the manufacture of this
hull, a challenge.
She looks lovely on show at home and is a dream on the water with no problem in very rough water. if you find one for sale go for it. (Motor: 919d series 4.5-15v) (ESC: Viper 15) (10/10)
3 years ago by ChrisG
can anyone please tell me what the hull was made from and was the deck
or just flat Yours Scout
3 years ago by scout13
talking about the real boat as I don't want to do a
deck if the real one was not
same with hull was it diagonal
or alloy Yours Scout
3 years ago by scout13
(Working Vessel) WHITE CLOVER
DUMAS 1:72 TUNA CLIPPER KIT; REDESIGNED & REFITTED TO A RESEARCH VESSEL. BEAUTIFUL MAHOGANY PLANK-ON (DOUBLE-
ABOVE PLIMSOL LINE & PROTECTED BY MULTIPLE COATS OF MINWAX POLYURETHANE), BIRCH PLY AND BASSWOOD SUPERSTRUCTURE WITH 3/16" SCRIBED DECK SHEATHING (DECK CAN ACCOMMODATE A SMALL RC HELO, GOOD LUCK WITH THE LANDING) FEATURES RIVABO 5-BLADE WHEEL, HAND MADE RUDDER, BULBOUS BOW & TRAWLING GALLOWS.ONE 1.5V WORKING RADAR ARRAY, LIGHTHOUSE 9V LED NAV LIGHTS & AMBER DECK LIGHTS AND WORKING BRASS STOCKLESS ANCHOR. (Motor: 775 JOHNSON-TYPE FAN-COOLED) (ESC: DIMART FAN-COOLED 320A 6-18V) (8/10)
3 years ago by circle43nautical
off and running
keel frames and deck together ,couldn't remember if you
in two halfs and then joined together so put it together and will plank alternative sides some fettleling and sanding to do first .
3 years ago by marky
Fairmile D - MGB623 and MTB741
Both Fairmile D boats 1/24 scale and are scratch built. They have both been about 6 years in operation.
MGB623 is an MGB, flying the Norwegian flag and belongs to a good friend.
Mine is MTB741. it is powered by 2 Graupner Speed 700 12V motors with NiMH batteries. The 6 pdrs and 20mm guns can rotate. it has a balsa
hull and fibreglass skin. Decks and superstructure are also balsa. Guns are from tinplate and brass.
3 years ago by reilly4
Aerokits Solent Class Lifeboat
Hi mark, many thanks for your input. I have
before on those "wonderful" De Agostini part works I.e Bismarck, HMS Victory etc. However planning on sheet covering the hull using the templates on 1.5mm ply I have. I also plan to use a coating of finishing resin inside and out but will not be glass clothing as I'm informed it's not necessary. This of course after any required filing gaps, will then prime, sand, prime again and finish using Halfords rattle cans.
As for household warefare! Thankfully I get lots of weekdays off when "she who must be obeyed" is at work, the Hoover works overtime before my understanding wife arrives home from work lol
3 years ago by Skydive130
fairey huntsman 31 1/6 scale
Got this boat about 3 weeks ago could not beleave the price i won it for £26.01 its 63 inchs long (5feet 3inchs)the guy that started to build it had passed away it had be in a damp shed for 3 or 4 years.The cabin top was half fitted and when i fitted it the cabin was twisted. All so the couriers had damage it around window frames,but i wanted to keep it as it was so repaired the damage and did not replace it.After lots of wet towels and wifes old micro wave a few swear words when i burnt myself i manage to untwist the cabin.A lot of you might not like the planking i have done but i wanted it to stand out.I used styrene over the repaired window frames so it would be easyer to paint them and to make them a little stronger.Cabin now
a wood strip to fit between cabin top and deck to stop splashes getting into the hull.I have had 4 strokes so my brain works a little diffrent now and maths is one thing i have lost.If any one has a copy of fairey huntsman 31 1/6th scale to sell please let me know as it would help a great deal any spelling mistake i will say sorry for now here are so photos of where she is at now.I say she as i am going to call the boat LADY LUCY after the old boys daughter also going to put brass plate on with built by tom as he did build most of it and its a nice way to remember him
3 years ago by englishbiker
(Other) SS Great Britain
Entirely scratch built to 1/98 scale, from builder's drawings from Greenwich and photos of ship in Bristol. Hull carved in basswood, deck
3 years ago by Gdaynorm
Richards 48'' Swordsman
hi Richard, certainly a "Huntsman", just finished refurbishing one myself. Re
the deck curving the planking around the bows was a real challenge, but three weeks later it was well worth it.
Good luck with yours
3 years ago by DennisRobotham
fibre glass or not
the boat skin is double
7x2mm planks. length 35" width 10" as you can see I work in all sorts of measurement