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    Blog
    H.M.S Bulldog
    Hi After sorting out the rudders I fitted the rear deck, I then moved on and fitted the for-deck, now we all know about saying measure and measure again then cut, well I did just that and yes I had made the cutout in the for-deck too small by 1/2 an inch in length, I only found this out when I started to make the for-deck housing. I had to do the for-deck housing so the I could work out just were to fit the smoke stack housing as I have no
    plans
    for this boat, so all measurement's are taken from all the old deck's and deck housings. All the bestπŸ‘ Fred
    6 years ago by Fred
    Forum
    Robbe Smaragd
    I have a Robbe Smaragd Yacht. 1/10 scale. This is quite old now and could do with a β€˜make over’. I would like to see some
    plans
    or instructions from the build before I start and would therefore be grateful if anyone with knowledge of this model or better still, copies of any paperwork that came with the kit contacted me. A few pics attached of this very β€˜forgiving’ yacht............ All the best. NPJ
    7 years ago by NPJ
    Forum
    Norstar Wave Princess original box
    Thought I'd post a photo of the original box as it shows the Wave Princess in her best 'dress'. I almost got it right. I have the original build
    plans
    and instructions, remembering that she was a kit and not built from scratch. If anyone would like copies please let me know.
    7 years ago by AllenA
    Forum
    Norstar Crash Tender
    HI all fellow boaters, Have just been given a Norstar 34" Crash Tender, Part built In early 1970's then left. seems to be all here In the box except for
    plans
    , so I'm asking If anyone has a copy they could let me have either on paper or emailed to me. Will cover any postage and copy charges you Incur. PM me with any offers. thanks Colin.
    9 years ago by Colin H
    Blog
    Crash Tender Restoration after Plywood Delimitation
    Well after some issues with the scroll saw not cutting straight lines I resulted to clamping the side pieces between two pieces of wood and using a fine file and sandpaper to attain a straight line - worked a treat to be honest. The length of the side piece prevented using the scroll saw to cut out the windows so resulted to a coping saw (24tpI which was a bit rough) also some bauding and fine files to finish them off. Spent the rest of the weekend removing old glue from the hull and slightly confused as to why random pins kept appearing along one of the deck supports. After removing a couple it became obvious what they were when the two pieces of wood separated. Should have used the
    plans
    I bought off eBay as they clearly showed that the deck/ hull support was made from two pieces of wood nailed together - looks like superglue may come in handy on this one. Also noticed on the
    plans
    that there are four port holes fitted something my one didn't have fitted - does anyone know where I can these and what size they are?
    9 years ago by neilmc
    Blog
    Ketch Barge ''Pearl of Ipswich''
    Hello, As I have mentioned before, I like the workboats from the age of sailing. The sailing barges caught my interest some time ago on one of my stays in the UK and I recently purchased a number of books on them. interesting history, more to it than I realized. Finally decided to build a Ketch Barge that is categorized as a Boomie as well. Several reasons; I wanted to model one of the larger ones, this one is 85', and I like gaff rigged boats with booms. Topsails a must as well and I like ketches. This one fits the bill and who could resist the chance to set 7 to 8 sails! Frank Carr's book tells the story of the barge Pearl and included plan, elevation, lines and sail
    plans
    . Nice bit of information, I can build with that. See attached photos. This will probably be a lengthy build, my Falmouth Gaff-rigged Cutter took me two years. I built that one while on assignment in Grand Cayman using only my small kit OD hand tools. More to come, hope to start this week. Cheers, Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a β€œpremium” model with a factory-installed smoke system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the smoke system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on
    plans
    for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the smoke system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the smoke mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the smoke generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton β€œpremium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the smoke generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where smoke fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of smoke fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton smoke system specifically & smoke systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete
    5 years ago by PittsfieldPete
    Blog
    Command Boat 90
    Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48') Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 Γ— Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 Γ— Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges . The Model I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency. So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources. http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats/combat-boat-90-h/specification/ Eventually I found some
    plans
    of sort :- http://laurell.today/boats/combat/
    plans
    .html My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make
    plans
    and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size
    plans
    of the model to be made. Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green. The Main model Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs. The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply. I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit. So reverted to propshafts which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders. That it for now, hope it was of some interest
    6 years ago by CB90
    Forum
    Damen Stan 4207
    plans
    I retired 4.1/2 years ago at 70. I've finished all the jobs Management set me, and have decided to try my hand at model making. I set my mind on making a model of HMC Searcher with the rib. I purchased a Sports Game Racing Boat, took off the top, lowered the RC pickup into the hull and remodelled the top to a good facsimile of the Delta rib. Because of the size of the doner hull I have to build the Searcher to a 1:32 scale. I have no drawings only those off the internet which are very sketchy. I would ask if the person (maybe RH Baker) with the plan drawings of the hull could let me have a copy. This is the first model I have ever made so you will all no doubt be hearing from me on a regular basis to tap your knowledge. Thank you for bearing with me. RayA
    5 years ago by RayA
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    Anyone into CNC, or perhaps looking to get into it? I am wondering about putting my
    plans
    out as G Code, and it would be useful to have a discussion about the practicalities. For instance, what bed size do people use? Model boat
    plans
    are a bit specialist for most CNC boards. They worry about cutting hard materials - we mainly use balsa and ply. Their machines are usually square - ours would need to be long and thin. They use big commercial routers and spindles - we could get away with smaller motors and dental burrs. I picked up one of these over Christmas, and am currently going through the learning curve. But it doesn't seem to be all that difficult.... https://amberspyglass.co.uk/store/index.php?seo_path=eshapeoko-cnc-milling-machine-mechanical-kit
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    RC Model Shark
    Anyone have
    plans
    , links or experience on Rc Sharks , I would like to build one. With a working tail movement If possible . Cheers
    9 years ago by CraigRobotham
    Forum
    CS Mackey Bennett
    Hi Gdaynorm have you had a look on the Sairk hobbies web site at the
    plans
    https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/cable-ship-mercury-mm782/ John
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Response
    Basic hull construction completed
    Hi Stuart - I'm scratch building a Swordsman, albeit larger than your Huntsman as I'm building at 1:12, so 33" long. I haven't worked on it for a few weeks but am at a similar stage with the hull in that I'm just about to sand the concave into the bow to form the flare. This is a stressful part and I might delay it and start on the superstructure! From the photos it's difficult to tell if you have overdone it or not due to the different materials breaking up the lines. it looks OK head on and from the side but when looking down towards the keel it does look a little excessve. I'm going to be building a Huntsman 31 as well soon but again at 1:12 so will be from
    plans
    , either existing or my own. I've got three Fairey builds on the go at the moment and another on the drawing board, well PC. Chris
    5 years ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Help identifying
    Hi justkiddin I live in Hobart, so not to far away from you mate. My mate and I both have Sea Hornets, his has a funny cabin on it also. Mine is build by the original
    plans
    . Brushless 28mm 1900kv, 45Amp ESC on 3S with a 32mm prop. Was GPS at Lauderdale canal at 45KPH. WE sail on a Saturday morning from 9 to 12, so if you are down this way call in. Canabus
    5 years ago by canabus
    Response
    Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    I would have thought the motor size would be given in the build instructions or on the
    plans
    given Dave Milbourn's (the kit designer) attention to detail. Chris
    5 years ago by ChrisF
    Forum
    Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50
    "..yes, drawings are much easier to work with as opposed to cad.." I can't see that. I haven't got the draftsmanship skill to create the drawings we see in the pictures - but I could easily reproduce them with a CAD package (though it would take a bit of time!). And the nice thing about the CAD drawing is that it is infinitely reproducible, and easy to publish on the Web, so that the information in the drawings I make are not lost when I disappear. Have you thought of publishing your
    plans
    on a web site? I'm sure that a lot of people would be interested, and there are so few resources for would-be tinsmiths available....
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Mclaren Clockwork Submarines U50
    yes, drawings are much easier to work with as opposed to cad they are not formal engineering drawings in the traditional sense but more like a" Kiel Kraft
    plans
    " type shorthand showing all the bits on one page.
    5 years ago by mactin
    Media
    MV DUBURG
    MV DUBURG on sea trials at the pond to day ,scratch built from
    plans
    by Jim Pottinger john
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Blog
    Auxiliary motor, rudder servo, bowsprit bitts
    Back to posting again....I decided to added an auxiliary motor since I had several laying around and it will come in handy when I am tweaking the sailing setup in case I get stuck in the middle of the pond. Made a stuffing tube just like I did on my rescue tug build. Made a shaft from some 3/16" steel rod, threaded it and polished it up, works great. Photo of the aft section shows continued hull framing and upside down mount of the rudder servo. I will enclose the servo with the small pilot house as is typical on the barge. This will make maintenance and adjustment access easy. Yes, the build is wandering away from the true "Pearl" which I used the hull
    plans
    from. it will maintain the same sail plan, but I will modify some items for ease of RC use. Bowsprit will be retractable, bitts are shown in progress. The bowsprit will be made from a carbon fiber "arrow shaft". Mast will be wood and I am shaping out of maple that I have. Staring to plank the hull as well. More to come shortly, Joe
    5 years ago by Joe727
    Forum
    eezebilt site
    morning hope its some help enjoy http://eezebilt.tk/index.html History,
    plans
    ,
    5 years ago by jacko
    Forum
    New to Forum
    Hello fellow model boaters. I'm new here so forgive my posting mistakes. Just wanted to introduce myself, I've been building model boats (static) for about 5 years. I mostly build my concept of a boat, however I have built from some
    plans
    . I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that. I also have a fascination with air boats and have built several. Does anyone deal with soldering metal components, having a problem with material. Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build. Are any of the clubs focused on non RC models? Looking to learn and share!πŸ‘
    5 years ago by retirement-hobby
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    "Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam engine. When I think of the problems involved to find
    plans
    and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam engine." 1. Cost. 2. Space available in the model. 3. Complexity of the engine and difficulty of control. 4. Fire risk, and not just to the model.😲 5. Shorter run times, longer 'steam up' times. 6. Unsuitabilty for many types of ships / boats. I.e. originals weren't steamers. If I read above posts correctly I thought you had already found at least two kindred spirits here. I'm sure that if you take the time to cull throught the hundreds Build Blogs and technical Posts here you will find others. Try using the Search function. See the panel on the left of the Home page. Good luck,😎 BTW: Nobody likes a fanatic! Don't get steamed up 😁
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    New to Forum
    "..., however I have built from some
    plans
    . I build small models, 10" is my biggest and most are under that..Usually I draw what I want to build, make templates, transfer to balsa, and build.." Have you seen this site? Provides free templates for exactly the kind of models you make. See the illustrations.... http://eezebilt.tk While clean surfaces are the correct way to make solder flow and stick properly, you will find that plumber's Acid Flux will give you a successful solder joint on pretty much any surface, no matter how dirty...
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I really can't believe that considering all the members that use this website, that no one is interested in steam engines and what steam has to offer. Why go to all that trouble of adding artificial engine sounds and smokers, when you can have it all and more, by installing a gas boiler and steam engine. When I think of the problems involved to find
    plans
    and scratch build a boat, why not go for the authentic look and fit a steam engine. in the fifty years or so I have been involved in this hobby I have NEVER ever installed an electric motor in a boat. if anyone out there in the ether shares my passion for steam, kindly get in touch, I would appreciate not being completely on my OWN.
    5 years ago by GaryLC
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) HMS PENELOPE
    This model was made by me from Glyn Guest
    plans
    - I made this a good few year ago. Of all the scale models I have built I like this one. When you take a scale model to the lake you have to be so careful not to damage anything - with this one you just put the model in the back of the car and throw it in the water - well not literally (you have to drive down to the lake first)πŸ€“πŸ€“ - many hours of enjoyment. (Motor: MFA) (5/10)
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) MV DUBURG
    scratch built model from Jim Pottinger
    plans
    - I made this several years ago - plank on frame and the hull is double planked. 1:96 scale/ (Motor: MFA 550) (5/10)
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Directory
    (Other) RTTL 2751
    model was originally built by myself using a mixture of Vic Smeed
    plans
    and photographs/
    plans
    from a gent called Christian - my model is double-planked. Outer planking is scale sized; props both drive the same way as in the original boats. (ESC: ACTion) (8/10)
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Emma C. Berry
    I need some help. I've successfully refurbished my static display Emma C. Berry model and added remote control. I have the sails on a winch loop, I have the rudder on a servo, I even managed to add a motor, and an extended keel with weight. The one issue that I have not been able to resolve is maneuvering under sail. Primarily, I cannot get it to move through the irons when coming about. She responds and the sails will luft, she might even catch some wind but she never makes enough of a turn to change direction. I've already changed out the rudder for the larger size on the
    plans
    . I've also tried extending the depth of the rudder. Bottom line, she is mainly being driven by the current. In this situation, by current I mean whichever way the wind is blowing the small lake. It is a local park lake and doesn't really have any inherent current. My one suspicion is the keel I added. It is doing its job to keep her upright and providing some resistance but in the end, the underwater current is overpowering her response to the rudder and/or trimming the sails. See Photo. I had originally wanted to incorporate a more rounded profile on the ends of the weight and the shafts but I remember reading somewhere that it isn't that critical Sails are per the
    plans
    and made from the material that came with the kit (25+ years ago). I even added a couple of sailor figures but we still can't establish control. 😭
    5 years ago by carpemoment
    Forum
    Emma C. Berry
    These
    plans
    were most likely downloaded from this website. I'll email you what I have in the best resolution that I have. I'll keep an eye out for photos of the original kit box, the kit, original
    plans
    but I don't recall ever taking any. The box itself made it through several moves but was apparently culled out when we downsized.
    5 years ago by carpemoment
    Forum
    Emma C. Berry
    I see that you have uploaded copies of the Sterling 'America' plan. I run a website which provides copies of old model boat
    plans
    for free download, aimed at letting a new generation of modellers create past models so that they are not entirely forgotten. 1 - Would you be happy for me to load these copies (or better ones if you have them!) to this site? 2 - Do you have any further information - part templates or box are, for instance - that you could contribute? You may see what we already have under the Sterling name here: http://oldboats.tk/Sterling1.html
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    HMS EXETER
    Cheers Doug for the compliment - she is 1:96 scale. I obtained the original
    plans
    from Greenwich maritime museum - the
    plans
    that they hold are as she was 'proposed to be built' in 1928 - the same as her sister ship HMS YORK - but amongst the drawings they supply are the correct hull lines - which are the ones I used for my hull - then I used literally thousands of images from all over the place to do the rest of the superstructure. Also, I used the aid of a small online plan of her rigging which shows a fair amount of superstructure detail of how she was built.
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Folding Bulwark????!
    hi there, I posted the 2nd pic of the bulwarks opening out over to show that there were various styles of openings in bulwarks. You are correct by saying the
    plans
    show a dotted line indicating that the bulwarks would fold flat to the deck / be totally removable for loading access to the ship. As far as how the sections would be secured to the deck normally I think would be strap hinges with removable pins and also angular supports from the deck to the top of the bulwark. I have another pic which I found on the web but its got getty images ross setford stamped right over it :-) so this also shows large openings for 'gangway access' or 'access'
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Folding Bulwark????!
    Whilst the photo and others comments are for the bulwark opening like gates the
    plans
    the OP has show a dotted line on the deck implying, IMO, that the bulwark folds inwards to lay flat on the deck. The dotted line representing where the bulwark would lay. Steve
    5 years ago by steve-d
    Forum
    Damen Stan 4207
    plans
    Will send you the
    plans
    (such as they are - these are sections and the General arrangement) to your personal address. I am pleased with the model from ever perspective. She sails well and looks good; was also a rewarding challenge to build. She does require either skill or much patience to build.
    5 years ago by Rowen
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    This old sea commander was built by my dad in the mid 50's. With the help of the wife, we have started to repair and rebuild, the wife stripped it down. Doug (RNmunich) is rebuilding my taycol supermarine ready to fit into it. So far we have relaminated some of the hull boards and cabin sides. Sealed some of the sprung joints with 2 pack epoxy. Once that's had 48 hours hardening time I will rub down and coat the hull in glass cloth and Eze-Kote. I have 1 problem, the main cabin roof is missing and I don't have any
    plans
    to remake, so if anyone can help me please let me know. Thanks for reading, watch for updates in the coming weeks. Cheers Colin.
    5 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Folding Bulwark????!
    Hello John Thank you for looking into this subject on my behalf. Much appreciated! What did you use as a search online because I have spent time trying to find any helpful cargo loading images and have not found an example. Did you save any of the images. Things like this and even such as correct doors present problems because the details are not on the
    plans
    . If you can give me a lead that would be great. I will now have another search. Toby
    5 years ago by Toby
    Forum
    CNC boat kits...?
    I'm thinking about interchanging boat
    plans
    as CNC files - so I'm thinking about the sort of machines people are going to have at home. There are a lot of 'cheap Chinese' machines on EBay for Β£200 up to about Β£500 - but these will be used for engraving, and will have cutting tables of about 8" square. Boat modellers really need a long axis. The Shapeoko is an 'open source' hardware design - much like the Rep-Rap, and the great thing about it is that you can specify the axis sizes - so you can have a machine which is a foot by six feet if you wish. I have just bought a UK kit for one called the eShapeoko - 1m x 500mm - cost about Β£500. But there is so much to consider - calibrating the machine, choosing a spindle drive, picking a software set....
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    One thing I have done which takes a bit of effort is to use card to make an approximate frame/ bulkhead as near as you can. Then trim and try until it fits as it should then trace onto wood of choice. Cut that out marginally oversize and sand/plane to fit and once happy glue in place. You should be able to work it out from the
    plans
    . Cut two sets and keep one for future reference.πŸ‘πŸ˜€
    5 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    ".....Thanks for all your comments and input. What i really need now is a copy of the templates sheet so that i can cut some new parts to replace some of the missing ones ....." There was never a 'templates sheet', of course. There were just the original kit parts. This is a fundamental problem with trying to 'save' old model boat
    plans
    . The aircraft
    plans
    usually have all parts described precisely. Many - possibly most - boat kits are essentially sets of parts with assembly instructions. So, if you need to reproduce an old kit, you need to include part templates as well. Which means a lot of work for someone. Not only do you have to obtain an example of the original kit, measure it up and draw it using a CAD package, but you also have to allow for the fact that wood changes, and that die-cut parts may be cut badly, and so what you have measured may need correcting - sometimes quite extensively. Here's a classic example - the old Yeoman MINX, with templates drawn up...
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    ".......If you have a computer, they usually come with some basic drawing tools like "Paint" or use paint.net.... Take the image and open with Paint, then just use the rectangular select tool to pick what you want to enlarge. Then just crop it and you have a nice separate image to save........" The fully-featured Open Source image processing package is called 'The Gimp'. You can download it for free, and it enables you to perform any image manipulation process you like - matching professional packages like Photoshop. I use it to create full drawings of vintage model boat
    plans
    which are often sent to me as a set of partial A4-sized scans. These can easily be re-sized, rotated, matched up and stitched together to make a full-sized drawing. For example, look at any of the Stirling
    plans
    on my Old Boats website: http://oldboats.tk/Sterling1.html
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    Hi original
    plans
    are sold on Ebay on model boats page cheers Ian
    5 years ago by TOWN3810
    Forum
    1950s sea commander refurb.
    plans
    as required from down under !!! Canabus Hobart Tasmania South of Australia !!!
    5 years ago by canabus
    Forum
    Help to indentify this tug please
    Gary - have now got some details it would seem the description for the pic on the IWM website is incorrect as it describes it as a Tid tug - hence my searches were revealing nothing also now EMP makes sense - will start looking for suitable drawings
    plans
    etc - Tx Alan
    5 years ago by al2612
    Forum
    SS HUNAN drawings
    Very good so far. The hull has been tested and the prop and rudder tested and now am creating ballast by making lead blocks to suit. The Glasgow archives had
    plans
    and photos and the staff was very obliging. Also I have found that the Swires ship business archive is held in London and they have a plan showing the changes which were made in 1953 or 1958. I cannot determine yet which because the image in the email reply was not of high definition. The staff there to date have been helpful. Then I will have to decide on whether to proceed with the later fitting out ore finish the superstructure in its original as fitted. Built in 1932 and scrapped in 1962 clearly it remained in its original fitting twice longer than the time from re- fitting to being scrapped. Likely this would account for the lack of photos in its second fitting. Don't have all the details but it largely appears to be an addition of poop deck superstructure and to such on the rear main deck. Needless there will be details lost or added in the area where these rooms were added. So will have to compare and decide and finish the build. If I can see a copy of the drawing for the revised fitting I will likely make a list and images for the benefit of others in treated in building this vessel. Toby
    5 years ago by Toby
    Forum
    Lazer cut Kits
    There would be no need to remove them if you simply follow the correct procedure and ask permission from the rights holder. I have found that Amerang are quite happy to allow people to make use of their old
    plans
    . They were happy for me to reverse engineer the kits, create line drawings and place them on my web site for the use of younger modellers. Maybe you came across them there? if you had asked, I could have given you a .DXF file and saved you some work......
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Sakibian, My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work. For you to build this hull you first need to get the
    plans
    to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin. The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts. One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.
    5 years ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hey o Reilly! Yep saw the
    plans
    ! Can you help me with something? Should I print the
    plans
    then cut the cross section by myself? Or any other ideas? How did your friend built that one? Did he buy the kit or Scratch built? Regards and thanks!
    5 years ago by Sakibian
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi Sakibian, The PT boat site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his PT boat and then the E-boat. There are good
    plans
    and examples of how he has constructed these boats. My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions. I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
    5 years ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Book on Sailing Barges
    I have an aged bedraggled copy of Edgar March's book, I acquired it about sixty years ago and whilst I think the text is one of the best on the subject and what illustrations there are, are very good, I am of the opinion that the illustrations in the Cooper/Chancellor book are more extensive. The barge
    plans
    in March are very good and I imagine can be blown up but I am referring to the depth of useful illustrations of construction and gear in Cooper/Chancellor that I consider so useful.
    5 years ago by Nerys
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    I used to buy the Airfix kits, mainly model aircraft, for 2 bob each. They came in a plastic bag with the
    plans
    attached to the outside. Attached to my bedroom ceiling with strands of cotton the English fighters shot down many a German which billowed cotton wool painted red and black. After gun deck now populated (excuse the snow effect which is dust caused by fettling my MA/SB hull)
    5 years ago by cormorant


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