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I have found a few good movies in the last few years which show some good wartime (and later) small boat action. 'They Were Expendable' (great PT movie with John Wayne) 'A twist Of Sand' (great RTTL med action in the early scenes, - (Richard Johnson, Honor Blackman Roy Dotrice ) 'The sea shall not have them' (Michael Redgrave, Dirk Bogarde). I also have a Beta copy of another med movie called MTB which is set in Malta but can't play it any more due to my beta player being destroyed years ago. It is about HTTLs based in Malta, not about MTBs as you might think. Of course there is the PT109 movie which most people have seen.
There must be a lot of old movies around with ASR boats, MTBs etc which are obscure and need to be watched to find content, -just came across 'A Twist Of Sand' on Youtube a few weeks ago and only watched it because I saw boats while skipping through it. Found 'The Sea Shall Not have Them' because I found the old book in a second hand book shop, and it mentioned the movie, and had
from the movie as well. Anyone else found anything of this nature, ?( I know there are plenty of warship movies but not many on small boats)
8 days ago by jbkiwi
EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
Now we are on the home straight! We have a drawing, a reasonable structure, and we can start pulling out the detail.
It's at this stage that I usually confuse myself completely, since I will make numerous slight alterations to put bulkheads and formers in better positions for several reasons - internal layout, better strength and balance.... and I end up with several dozen slightly different hull designs, each of which are slightly incompatible with numerous slightly different bulkheads, and I then lose track of which parts go with which others...
However, here are some examples of the output from this stage. The superstructure base(fig32) is going to have to be made from parts as I mentioned earlier. The bulkheads (fig33) can now all be drawn with their slots and tabs, ready for assembling into the classic egg-box on the sub-deck (fig34). The front formers and the keel are taken off the drawing, again with tabs drawn (fig35)...
There will be quite a number of other parts to be drawn and made - the transom and other flat sections of the stern, the triangular bulkheads under the subdeck, the trapezoid
which go to make up the funnel and mast, and other details like the anchor well. Almost all of these parts will be uninteresting rectangles with dimensions taken off the drawing, so I am not going to list them all down here.
The full set of parts, however, will be needed when it comes to the cutting stage, because we will be trying to get as little wastage as possible from the balsa, and sneaking little triangular formers into all available gaps on the sheets. I will take a bit of a break now, because I need to get the water-jets delivered before doing the final stern design - and I am running short of balsa, so I will need more of that!
I may cut a few parts on a sheet of 1/8" inch as an illustration. To do this you simply arrange the parts you want into a 4"x36" rectangle, load the cutter with a 4"x35" balsa sheet and send a file describing the parts to the cutter over a USB link. We will cover the software used and the stages of converting the drawing file to cutting instructions at that point...
10 days ago by DodgyGeezer
EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
It only sounds complicated as this is at a design stage.
When it actually comes to making it you will have plans that you cut out and use as tem
, and with simple instructions you will find it easy to build.
14 days ago by Martin555
EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
"...C01 this was made without any drawings/plans..."
Really? I'm amazed! I would have thought you would have to have sketched out something - if only tem
for the bulkheads and keel....?
25 days ago by DodgyGeezer
Billing Andrea Gail
Had to make a motor stand for the Graupner 400 brushed motor . Took quit a while to line up & glue in place .Used Brass 2 brass
silver soldered to make a 90 & drilled holes for 2.5 mm motor screws . I have a Deans Marine speed control that's older than me but works well on 6 volts . P/S the guy with the fish isn't me & I can't edit to put a me photo in
1 month ago by GARTH
Re: Steampunk Pike.
As you wish Red.
But if you're serious about building Memo's Nautilus you ain't gonna find more info and advice than on that disc. And that straight from the Disney horse's mouth. Confusing is that sometimes they mention DVD and sometimes CD!? Happy trawling the Net, I did too, but didn't find a more comprehensive collection of info and data than that. Lots of vague plans, but then what?
Material: "Wood seems an odd material to make a submarine from - so where do you go from there..........." My U25 hull is made from four 3cm planks of wood. Lots of carving and checking with tem
and swearing. Then wood sealer, more sanding 🤔 primer, three coats of resin based RAL 7035 paint. Brush quick or your brush will stick to the hull😭
Later spraying upper and lower hull with appropriate Revell enamels, light grey and mid/dark grey respectively. No ingress of water or other damage incurred over the last 25 or so years.😊 Advantage is better thermal insulation from the cold water surrounding the hull than with thin plastic.
"plastic does not like the "African" sun much"!
For several days now we have had temperatures of 35 to 40°C, new record for Germany in June was set yesterday☀️. Expected to climb further to a new record peak on Sunday!😎
I note that today, and the foreseeable/forecast-able future Cape has temperatures of around 13 to 15°C.
I remember being in Jo'burg/Pretoria some years ago towards the end of November. We went to the Zoo with temperature around 35°C and while refreshing ourselves sitting outside the cafe there were astounded to to witness the arrival of a class of young school kids and a Father Christmas wearing the full red arctic outfit with hat and beard. I started melting just looking at him 😂 During my time in Cape Town and Simonstown, also shortly before Christmas, the temperatures were a very comfortable 25 to 30°C. Where are you?
Of course various plastics deform at various temperatures, so 'Taste and Try Before You Buy'.
(With thanks to Savoy Brown - see attached Utube clip😉)
Check the specs of the type of plastic you are considering buying for your build. Some are specially developed I believe for minimal deformation at higher temperatures.
BTW: Joburgsailor seems to do all right with the materials he uses under the African sun👍
See his blogs and post on this site about his magnificent MEKO frigate. (A ship class I also worked on for other countries!)
Whatever floats your boat Red 😊 have fun doing it, that's what it's all really about!
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW; wish we had your grocery prices here🤔 85US$ = about €75. Which is around 20 or 15% of my monthly grocery bill of around €400-500!
2 months ago by RNinMunich
Hintsand tips - Decals made easy
If anyone is looking for a cheap easy way to make any decals of photos name
, designs etc, here is an idea you might find useful. I use a waterslide decal paper on which you can print anything you design, draw etc on your inkjet printer. I buy this paper from a company in Australia for around $30 NZ for 10 A4 sheets. You can buy clear or white. What you do is just print your design, photo, text etc onto the paper (plastic waterslide coated), let the ink dry, spray with either a clear lacquer or Helmar clear (the best), allow to dry, trim,soak in warm water as usual and apply. This material is quite tough and will not tear easily and you can spray lacquer over it to seal it on the model. It is a similar stuff as sold by Testors in a kit but is a lot more cost effective. I've included some examples of decals I've made for my boats and planes .
For small decals you can cut a small piece a bit bigger than your design, print your picture on A4 to see where it will come on the page, sellotape the piece of decal paper over the print, (tape horizontally top and bottom) put the page back in the printer with the same orientation as is was, and print onto your decal. This saves wasting a whole sheet of decal paper which cannot be re used. If you find a nice clear sharp design it will come out nicely on the decal
2 months ago by jbkiwi
Puffer build continues
Fitting of bulwark cappings, deck angle
, bulwark strengtheners.
I want to weather this model has anybody got some good tips please.
2 months ago by davejw
Martin , forgot to ask if you were using it on
or direct to hull. If litho, plastic, or thin card
you can use a dressmakers wheel from the back - I have two of different size wheels for different spacing - they are pretty cheap so I would not advise trying to borrow you know who's , That would be much quicker to do.
Agree with Dodgy - Chinese pins are much softer - trying to use so called office pins from China found they bent easily
3 months ago by redpmg
Soykils (Brooklyn for Circles)
In 1856, Constellation had two 10 shell guns mounted bow and stern as "pivots" or shifting guns. To make shifting them easier, and prevent them tearing up the deck, sectional iron
were screwed down to the deck, a bit like model rail-road track, these were referred to as "circles" or "gun circles."
What pattern was actually used on Constellation is so far unknown. The museum folks think there was just a basic circle under each gun, but I think they've interpreted the name a little too literally, as I can find very few examples where just a single simple circle was used.
I decided to base the model on the more complicated patterns I found in photos and a diagram in the Navy's 1852 manual: Preparation of Vessels of War for Battle.
I cut the circles from 1/32" (.5mm) sheet styrene, painted black, and glued to the deck with gel CA.
Both guns on the model sit on access hatches that don't correspond to any actual hatch, so the bow circles, especially, had to accommodate the seam of the hatch.
4 months ago by Jerry Todd
CNC boat kits...?
Hi. This machine is called the Ox, a full set of
, anodised in black, is on sale at Oozenest at half price, I am building it bit by bit as I do not have funds for a kit. All parts are sourced in the UK, either from Oozenest,
, extrusion some bolts and other Ox specific parts, Arduino Uno and CNC shield, the rest, Nema 23s, Toshiba motor drivers, bolts, some extrusions, 30 wheels, spacers etc from WE Do 3D Printing in Sheffield. Control will be via Arduino Uno and CNC shield, with Toshiba 5 amp drivers on a 24 volt PSU. This machine can be made as big as you want just by increasing the length of the extrusions, which consist of 20 x 80, 20 x 60, and 20 x 40 V slot. Mine will have a footprint of 750mm x 550mm, which will give me a build area of around 380mm x 650mm. Big enough for me, I have very little space and I am going to have to sell a couple of 3D printers to make room. I will be using GRBL firmware, Designspark Mechanical for design, DXF2Gcode for converting and Universal G code sender to cut. I don't anticipate needing a bigger machine as I cannot lift big models any more so 600 mm long will do me. I have not thought about work holding and my designs, If I manage to get ant sorted that work, will be there for anyone to use.I have not fully mastered the art of CAD yet, I learned Tech Drawing on a drawing board with T square and compass. This weekend will be a laugh as I am going to get the electrics sorted, I have mastered Marlin, used in 3D printing, and I have been laboring on the misapprehension that CNC would be the same, so it's teach meself GRBL time!
Please note, I have nothing to do with the suppliers I have linked to other than as a satisfied customer...
4 months ago by Nickthesteam
To make the hull look like it made from riveted
, I plated the hull using card cut as required and glued to the base hull using Waterproof PVA glue. Then the rubbing stakes fitted. To simulate the rivets I used brass round headed pins hammered into the hull. This was done to the water line. The rudder was made from brass, etc. The Puffer used a tiller type rudder hung over the stern. The drive mechanism was chain from the wheel house. More details later.
A prop tube was fitted.
The hull was then undercoated, top coated with red and black gloss.
4 months ago by Hillro
Many moons ago when I worked in the shipyards we used something similar on a much larger scale with the holes 2"dia these massive slabs of steel were used to bend bulb bar and hold
flat for welding they were called dogging
or tables depending on the size (I think dogging has a different connertation now a days) .the tables or
were used with bars which were called dogs .good luck with the rest of the soldering😐😐
5 months ago by marky
Preparing the frames for the hull
The drawings came with the hull profiles to scale so I photocopied them enough times to when cut out gave a template for each one.
I decided to build the hull upside down so I marked out the tem
to allow for this and to allow the frames to be cut when the hull is complete.
The frames were made from 4mm Birch Plywood. Tem
glued to the plywood and cut out using a scroll saw.The interiors of the frame were also cut out where there was sufficient material to allow a 10mm web.
A 50x75mm batten was marked out from the drawing for the frame positions. frames had blocks glued to them to allow the fixing of them to the batten.
The keel was also cut out from 4mm plywood and glued to the frames.
5 months ago by Hillro
Manufacturing of Paddles
I started with the paddles. Main reason was that I was not sure the final product would work. I ordered all the brass parts using eBay and google. Tem
were photo copied from the drawing (paddle frames) and stuck to 1/32 brass sheet.
Centre punched all the points that needed to be drilled. Holes drilled used a jewellers saw to cut out the frames and finish off using files. I had not done anything like this before but patience was need to replace all the broken blades. I note that the saw came with 120 blades.
I then made all the paddles, the spider gear, etc using soft soldering technique. The wheels were then assembled and tested. small adjustments had to be made with a file as some of the paddles were fouling each other. Disassembled them and painted them using car spray paint. I was quite pleased with the paddles so could start thinking about the tug hull.
5 months ago by Hillro
Not much, happening this time of year. The shop doesn't have heat, so things like batteries that shouldn't be left in the cold come in the house, and the shop which seems to stay at or near 40°f/4°c, become an annex to our refrigerator.
Now and then we get a warm day or three, and I open the doors because it's actually warmer outside than in, but more often than not what gets done is for other folks, and not the models.
Spring is about a month off, but we'll likely get get some warmer days before that and I have been doodling some thoughts on what to address on all three models when the opportunity appears.
On Constellation that's chain
, pinrails, and getting the mizzen bracing working - a fairlead got some epoxy in it and needs to be cleared. I also want to get into some details like railings on the mast tops, and the bands that the futtocks attach to on the masts. if you don't know what that is, just wait and it'll be explained.
6 months ago by Jerry Todd
Done a load of work around the wheel boxes this week (as well has finishing the other Deck hatch as the parts had arrived).
Started with a blanking plate where we drew on the curve of the wheel box as well as the height of the side boxes.
steamed 2 thin strips of wood into shape and glues them to the
Then glued the 2 preformed wheel box shapes to the
Once dry, using the preformed boxes cut out 2 wheel box fronts, marked up where the slots are going to go (not skilled enough to cut the required 10 slots so gone for 5 instead).
Once cut out and shaped, glued into place and at the same time removed the extra material from the blacking plate to form the backs of the wheel boxes and side boxes.
once all of that was dry, cut out of balsa wood the 4 side boxes (2 each side, front and rear), glued together, shaped to fit and then fitted to the backing plate and wheel box arches.
We found that the Wheelhouse platform was actually slightly too big (port and starboard wise) so cut into the platform slightly do the wheel boxes etc fit, looks better and once all fitted together will be fine.
Next thing to do is the steps over the 2 wheel boxes, so ordered some more wood strips to do that.
once all that is done, seal and paint the boxes.
Also on the plan for this coming week is to mark out and cut the deck holes for the battery, steam generator and other bits and bobs 🤞