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Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips
Yep that makes sense Steve, but I still wouldn't do it that way with that wire!
It'll most likely kink while you're trying to fix the stanchions and the remainder are flopping about the shop!☹️
Had similar experience using tinned copper wire on my 1/72nd scale H class destroyer😭 Eventually I sequentially fixed and pushed/pulled the wire through stanchion by stanchion rather than waiting until they were all fixed.
Periodically I had to stretch the wire between two pairs of
to de-kink it, which was a pain in the nether-lands!🤔
Took a while on a 1.35 metre deck 🤔 But I cheated by making the main deck in two sections; midships so I could service batteries, distribution board, ESC, smoker and stern section to get access to motors, rudder and auxiliary sound and switching modules. B and X gun platforms were a bit tricky too!
Apart from 'kinky' railing - so far so good Steve👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS and BTW, having gone to all that trouble threading metres of wire round the railings - I used them as the + and - supply rails for bow and mast lights! 😉 3V 'rice grain' bulbs in those days. Will be replaced with LEDs during current refit.
3 months ago by RNinMunich
Completing the Aft Section.
The last few weeks have been taken up by trying to complete the fore and aft sections so that I can complete the first part of the build and have a completed hull. At the end of the last update, I mentioned that I had broken the dive planes in half. I checked the rigidity of the remaining stub and decided it had enough strength to stay. I prepared a 15mm length of 5mm brass tube which nicely fitted over the remaining lugs. I glued a piece of 4mm diameter aluminium rod inside so that I could drill a small hole in the middle to hold the control arm. I then glued the whole assembly together and had a nice strong dive plane again. I then filed out the bearing surfaces in the main sections to accommodate the larger shafts.
I finished of the whole assembly with control arms and proceeded to fit the prop shafts and the rear bearing assemblies. This took a fair bit of fiddling and reshaping of the angled hole through the hull but finally, after a few hours, I was happy with the results. I held the assemblies in place with elastic bands and then, when happy, used Stabilit Express glue to fix and fill. I make sure that I am fairly generous with the glue so that when I tidy it up, there are no holes left behind. I glued around the prop shaft assemblies on the inside as well and got a little bit of glue on the dive plane control arm. Whilst wiping this off, Disaster number 2. The control rod came out of its hole in the dive plane. This hole is 2mm diameter but 8” down inside of the aft section. Time for ebay. I found a pair of 11” long nosed
for £4.50. I bought immediately.
Today I decided to finish of the prop shafts by removing the excess glue. To do this I used small full round files, 240 grit wet and dry for roughing and 600 grit for finishing. This took a couple of hours but I am pleased with the results.
Now for the repair. I used the extra long nosed
and tried to find the hole whilst looking up the torpedo tube. Very difficult. I then noticed that if I shined a bright LED light into the section and looked at the side, the light showed right through the side wall of the model and the control arm pin could be seen as a shadow. With this, I managed to push the rod back into place. Phew!! I will have to think of a way I can get a little fluid super glue onto the rod without gluing the dive plane rigid.
My attention has now moved to the bow section. I have decided not to add retractable bow planes as this requires a lot of work for very little gain. I have, however, decided to fix the lift mechanisms in such a way that I can add retractable units at a later date. I hope for the next update I can complete this section and complete the hull section ready for splitting.
The WTC is still under construction but I am getting help from Doug (Mr Fleet Admiral SIR) for the electronics to get it to do what I want it to do. The next ballast unit test might also feature in the next update.
Thanks for reading.
3 months ago by MouldBuilder
40'' Seaplane Tender, new build N
Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD aircraft wheel collars (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each collar, then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Have made the rudders, shaft struts and steering arms. Steering arms were brass strip (6mm x 1mm) drilled to suit 3mm ID stepped OD aircraft wheel collars (HK,- large OD 7mm, small OD 5mm). Kept strip in full length while drilling then soldering each collar, then cut to length afterwards (easier to manage). Drive shaft tubes are epoxied in but still have to tidy epoxy up and streamline the drive shaft tubes back and front where they leave the hull (see sketch)to avoid cavitation at higher speeds.
Struts are same brass strip, wrapped around shaft tube and drawn tight with
, then legs cut and filed to size and soldered to hull 'mounts' (again using full length strip and cutting to size and filing later). These will be epoxied into the hull and thick cyno'd to the tube as they are only for decoration. Steering will be by a plastic aircraft cable (40yr old Graupner left-over cable actually) running up past half way to the servo. No new technology here!
7 months ago by jbkiwi
Ace Nautical Commander
have an old Ace "Nautical Commander" 5 channel on 27mhz. Crystal change a real pain as you have to open up the set and use
to change. Still works and its a great radio with dual sticks for twin motor operation. Been reading about the conversions to 2.4ghz - wondered if it would be possible on this radio - suffers from a lot of interference here. Don't know if it's FM or AM , would not know how to check. Can anyone help ?
9 months ago by redpmg
"....although I did try some as an experiment and broke a pair of small cutters so ended up using
They're tough little things to cut..."
Decent quality dressmaking pins are made out of hardened steel, and are probably best cut with a Dremel disk.
The cheapest Chinese Ebay pins are often made out of soft wire, and are easy to bend or cut. They are useless for dressmaking, but they are cheap, and would do this job perfectly...
9 months ago by DodgyGeezer
"I did try some as an experiment and broke a pair of small cutters so ended up using
They're tough little things to cut."
If you have a Dremel or similar mini drill, try using a diamond cutting disc.
Stick a row of pins into a block of balsa or similar put the block in a vice and whizz along with the cutting disc.
DO PLEASE WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!! 🤓 Even using the
We don't want you wandering about with porcupine eyes!!
Happy pinning, Doug 😎
9 months ago by RNinMunich
I think I will be going with the dress making pins.
I am not at the position to use them yet it was a bit of forward planning, although I did try some as an experiment and broke a pair of small cutters so ended up using
They're tough little things to cut.
I was thinking about riveting every panel but that could take me about twenty years!
Now that I have retired and my model making budget is almost zero I have to work out how to make things from nothing and I must admit I am starting to get good at it.
As you may of seen in my HMS Cottesmore log I use things like yogurt pots BBQ sticks and any thing that I can to achieve the end results.
I also strip the insulation from wire and use the wire for hand rails and stanchions.
It is surprising what you can make from all sorts of recycled stuff.
Sorry I drifted away from your question, yes I will show you the results.
Thank you for showing interest, I am really glad that I joined this site. I have now got fellow modellers to share and contact and that is what keeps me going with this hobby.