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Not everybody can afford the investment in steam, I would love to build a model with steam power if only I could pick up a steam plant for around £40 -£50.The unit you show I think would come in at something more than that. so I suspect there are other admirers of steam but out of reach because of cost.
Just a quick search sees prices of a complete installations in the region of £1500 -£2000
6 months ago by mturpin013
6 Volts of Course of Course!
The right battery for the job!
I found a battery that volts and amp's are just right!
The most important thing the right weight!
The battery weigh's in at 3 lbs. 1 ounce.
Which is just right for the Brooklyn!
Give or take a once or two....
But, can be adjusted to trim the water line!
The battery is a 6 volt 8.5 amp battery.
Which will power Brooklyn for 2.5 hours.
Or 1.6 hours with her smoking unit on!
Brooklyn will run on 5.2 amps with the smoker.
Or 4.0 amps with out the smoker!
Unfortunately you live and learn.
I tried using the batteries from.
Serenity, she's 12 volts 2.5 amps!
This was no good, not enough power!
Also the 12 batteries weigh too much!
So, A 6 volt battery was the way to go!
Next is replacing the motor and smoker!
Am expecting the motor this morning!
Will soon order the smoker!
And again she will be completed.
For a spring launching!👍
7 months ago by figtree7nts
de Mist Naval Tug
Hi Joburg-sailor! De Mist was built by Dorbyl, Durban, in 1978. Powered by two 8-cylinder Mirrlees Blackstone diesel engines with twin Voith-Schneider propulsion units. No idea if plans are available of this specific tug, but I do have some of similar vessels that were built by the same company for SAR&H in 1980 that are still in service (but probably nearing their service lives by now). Regards, Glyn
8 months ago by Glyn
Just put up another vid showing the speed at around 2/3 throttle which looks reasonably scale for 38 knots (bit hard to scale water movement as we all know!) and it doesn't squeal too much at this speed. Just been back through my old info on the ESCs and found I may be able to change a few things (forgot due to approaching dotage and so many projects on electric (18 planes as well converted from ic to electric) I was thinking with your high kv motors that if you can get away with smaller props or some the scale diam bit finer pitch props, that would allow the motors to rev how they should, but give you finer control. As I mentioned before, on 8v per motor they will spin at around 16-18000 rpm and won't like a big load (you've no doubt heard those delta wings scream) . My props are 28mm x 3 blade on a 2000kv motor and are spinning at around 12000 rpm (probably around 8000 rpm in the vid at 2/3 throttle) The general rule with brushless is the higher the kv the smaller the prop/pitch and vice versa planes or boats (would also apply to brushed)
if you have an in line amp meter/batt checker you can check the amps drawn in the water at full power (have someone hold the boat) and see if you are under max A for the motor. You can then prop to suit if necessary. This is the only way to check for correct load and is an absolute must for aeroplanes. After a run, motors should be around cool to almost too hot to touch (60-70deg C) There are backplate water cooling units available for using out-runners in boats if necessary eg pic.
11 months ago by jbkiwi
Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors
I have a Hobby Engine “premium” 2.4GHz “Richardson” tug. This boat is identical mechanically to the “Southampton” tug. I’ve read many posts on the forum having to do with replacing the factory-installed motor/gearbox unit with two separate motors mounted side by side. Personally I’m happy with the factory drive setup; it’s quite powerful & it runs smoothly. The reduction gearing is a bit noisy, but my boat is new & will likely quiet down with use.
I have two requests for those who have removed the factory drive unit & replaced it with separate motors:
1. If you’ve still got your factory drive unit & have taken it apart out of curiosity, if possible will you please post photos of the internal parts? I’m interested in seeing what’s inside the housing & how the gearing is set up.
2. Along the same vein, I’d like to acquire a spare factory drive to have on hand, just in case. If you have a complete, working drive unit that you’d consider offering for sale, please send a PM to me & let me know what you would want for a price.
Thanks very much.
11 months ago by PittsfieldPete
ASR 64ft R/C VID 2
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .
11 months ago by jbkiwi
Taycol Supemarine Resurrection
Interesting restoration project . Great fan of Taycols myself though its some 24 years since I had one.
The motors themselves are bristling with character as you can see the armature rotating and you do get the smell of something electrical along with it. Taycols go further than being just
s as they are good ballast due to their weight.
Unfortunately through progress they have been replaced by little tin cans and brushless devices. Hopefully someday a person or a company will put them back in production due to the number of retro boat kits now being sold.
11 months ago by boaty
Boaty P.T 109
Three years ago I built an Italeri Kit of P.T. 109 and fitted it with a 480 motor and ran it off a 7.4 Li Po.
I left the aft cabin detachable in order to change battery etc and the performance was very good with a speed of 8 knots on full power.
Though in general, the boat was more suited to calmer conditions, it look so realistic on the water.
Due to it being a plastic kit, I felt a bit guilty having built a model close to show standards without the time and effort of other model makers who had worked so hard with other materials to achieve the same outcome.
I would like to hear from other boat enthusiasts who had completed similar projects especially around
s and how they overcame difficulties in converting what is basically a static model into a working one.
4 years ago by boaty
Thought U were goin' to hit the hay a while ago John!? 😉
Greetings from one model fan and insomniac to another👍
BTW agree with your comments about the water jacket.
Sweat the screws out and the rest should be relatively easy.
"In this the most perfect of all possible worlds"!
Cheers All, Doug 😎
BTW: TELL me about those relays! For a year or so back in the early 70s I used to service and calibrate the radiation monitors at various nuclear research / power generation sites around England. The detectors tripped a relay via appropriate drivers, which then triggered the unit Nixie tube, etc, etc.
My job was mainly cleaning and setting the relays and doing a calibration against 'normal' background count, cosmic radiation etc.
To reassure folks; during the whole year - year and a half I never ever saw a count above background! But then - that was 46 years ago 😲
12 months ago by RNinMunich
DIESEL TUG TIRRICK
Plans by Sarik Hobbies,
Schneider powered tug1:50th scale.
Model is 740mm loa & 230mm beam and intended for power by model VS units.
Unusual hull form but no model construction data.
Featured in: MM NOVEMBER 1994
12 months ago by CB90
PT 109 upgrade?
No, no, you misunderstand, Doug. Not doubting the engines in an Elco, but doubting the likelihood of finding a youtube of one with it's original power of 3 V-12s to record for a sound unit!
1 year ago by Westquay
Sterling American Scout
American Scout C2 cargo ship power MACK 3-1 drive 12 volt 2 x 6 volt 3000 mah batteries. Harbor smoke unit model weighs 15 lbs.
1 year ago by Mikep
Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable.
Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries.
Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any!
Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position.
Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established.
The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative.
Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed.
Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?
1 year ago by RHBaker
AL Khubar 2
Hi As seen in my build blog list of items fitted.
2 MFA Geared 6-1 Motors. 2 Aqua power 128 FNR Speed controllers. Brass props. Bow thruster. Brass Korts. Sound unit.
Horn. Lights. all in working order. Sailed very well yesterday at Owls pond.
In good working order sold as seen with no returns too detailed to pack collection only please. £300 ovno. Any Question please ask. Plans and instructions also.
1 year ago by dragon
Flyer 15, racing hydroplane
Really lovely model. What
are you considering ?
I can picture this boat with small brushless performing at scale speed and attracting a lot of attention.😁 BOATY
2 years ago by boaty
12v esc for trolling motor build
Interesting project. Difficult to give advice on the info available. Looks like a steerable powered nozzle at the rear but what motor is it and what are the specs?
An Esc does all the hard work and converts the rx pulses into usable power.
I have arduinos and they can be programmed to control the power and rotation of a motor but would need additional high power Mosfets as well as other circuitry to buffer the unit from the output.
If you are really into arduinos then a walk in the park but I believe an ESC would possibly be more robust and waterproof.
It would be good if you were to post a build blog of your progress as the subject is certainly different to any models we have seen to-date.
Good luck with the build
2 years ago by Dave M
Voltage step down
Just a thought-
The component shop does do a voltage reducer rated at 6 Amps power draw, and will drop from DC (10.5-40v to 1-9v) I thought about using one of these to run a 6v volt Marx Hectoperm motor from a 12v source, to save buying a new battery. As long as your motor speed controller setup doesn't draw more than say 4~4.5 Amps. I'm my case the tug had 4 x 6Ahr 6v batteries wired in parallel giving 16Ahr and 2-1/2 hours running time @full speed. These batteries have since all died due to age.
I wanted to use just 1 x 20Ahr 12v battery instead and keep the added ballast I need anyway. This 6 amp unit is on the limit in my application.
P.S i'm tight with money and I acquired the battery free from an alarm battery swap.
2 years ago by Novagsi0
Electronics Down Below (5)
This time I will try to remember to put in the ‘source’ information on the bits and pieces I use...........
In the most recent piece I should have included exciters/transducers are Dayton Audio DAEX 25VT -4, 4 Ohms – 20 Watt pair, obtained from Sound Imports Netherlands and very quickly as well. The sound unit is a Mtroniks Digisound 5M diesel sound, available all over the place.
Now to look at where I am at.
Exciters are in place as high up the Hull as possible, but remembering the Deck level. Used the adhesive pads as supplied after wiping that part of the Hull with Meths and Silicone adhesive to keep in place as well as using the wiring tidies from Modelsport Ltd., for the cabling. (Pic 1+2)
Before I start the motor and controller wiring I changed the platform ‘up front’ (pic3) with a piece of thin ply which I have given a couple of coats of varnish to waterproof. Then I thought to myself “why am I waterproofing this when, if it gets that wet, it will have gone to the bottom and be useless anyway”! (Pics 4)
However, the platform gives a little more choice in terms of layout of other components and my plan for them is not really settled yet. I am concerned about the stern and possible swamping, but it currently seems the best place for the upgraded battery. (Pic5 )
Whilst talking batteries, I have gone for a separate battery supply for the receiver and hope to use the Bec supply for running other less critical items.
Also the fitting of the battery in the stern bay drew my attention to the rudder servo for a couple of reasons. First is I am still considering increasing the size of the rudders and I am assuming that will increase the strain on the servo.
The servo supplied is a standard issue and not water resistant so I have gone for an upgrade as shown(Pic6) That gives torque increase of 17Kg/cm over the Hobby Engine S1040C and has metal gears, metal control arm and waterproof for 20grams extra weight.
Second is the closeness to the new battery position. So I was going to alter the servo arm setup anyway and the new metal arm suits this well. Maybe my ‘tutors’ will consider all this to be a little ‘over the top’ but I do so enjoy messing......................... New Servo DS 3218 by AYANI from Amazon. (Pics 6/7 )
Following that distraction, back to the front end and the Motor/Mixer placing and wiring.
Now a little time ago I drew a plan to see what could go where and it came out that most of the ‘bits’ would go in the front bay with motors to be wired once power was brought forward, followed by the Esc/Mixer. (Pic 8)
At that time I bought a P94 dual esc/mixer from Action Electronics and got the 20 amp version to be on the safe side................. My ‘guardians’ did point out this was ‘over-kill’ but I had already got it.
Now, when placing the unit on the mounting board I found that the heatsinks made it too high to fit in the Hull! So being a spoilt brat only child I ordered the 10 amp version and as usual it came very quickly from up here in Bangor. ( Will keep the other one for the next project............Happy Hunter??)
Unboxed it and it looked just the same, heatsinks and all. (Pic 9/10 )
So at that moment there was a bit of a set-back so I rang Component Shop at Bangor, they said “take the heat sinks off and you have a P94 lite”! Such a simple answer and such a nice chap. (Pic 11 )
Now a quick 'measure up' before I have a glass of wine (Pic 12) and does it all fit...? Well it appears to at the moment! (Pic 13)
Next time really going to screw down the components under the forward hatch and wire it up.
2 years ago by NPJ
Veron Vosper RTTL 28''
How refreshing to read this thread. I built this kit in 1959/60 and from memory powered by a 1.5 c.c. E.D. diesel. Radio control I used a Reptone single channel unit for the rudder only.
We had always had some sort of family boat on the river and not being able to be on board the RTTL was very frustrating for me.
Sadly I sold the model as my training/career took hold.
To this day I wonder if she has survived the test of time.
She had a unique (highly illegal) ID number 2945. if any model boat enthusiast stumbles over my motley attempt at this Veron kit I would be very interested to hear?
Good luck Skydive130 and enjoy the building experience!
2 years ago by surfacesub
Sound System Try Out
Well, back now from a wet Scottish break and with lots of little parcels to open.....
Just before I left I tried to load a video and failed. My 'tutors' are going to help me with that but for now, the photos will do the job.
The first image shows my temporary power setup and the layout of the components (1). Exciters sourced from ............. and the sound unit is a ............. Note the way they are wired up. I hope, when fitted properly, the cabling will run across the bottom of the Hull.
The positioning was very much dictated by the space available between one set of 'ribs' (2). This seems to be just perfect. Note the position of the solder tags(3). There is little space left at the top when fitting the Deck, so keep as high as possible bearing that in mind.
So I put the exciters in place, and attached my power supply (4). I could not wait to put the Deck back on before I tried, but at least I had sound of Motors and Horn and adjusted the volume control to 75% (5) Volume control being the white block with the cross head.
So after I had my fun, I tidied it all up and put the deck on. Not screwed down but just to check sound levels. Did not work first time because of the lose wires, but second time was good and a great depth of sound.
So that has confirmed the sound system fits and can work in that position. However, that is without motors running and that may make a difference.
Next time I hope to be doing the trials of the mixer/escapes and motors, then I will see how the sound presents with motors running.
All the best.
2 years ago by NPJ
Hi Norm, yep that's the idea. 👍 I believe though that the verticals should be at least twice the length of the horizontals.
There would also have been a small round box at the centre where the connections were made. Feeder cable runs down the inside of one of the mast uprights.
I think I found the pic that you referred to, see pic #1.
It shows Lusty as in March 1947.
Pic #2 shows her early in the war without this 'box'!
Interesting is that the 1947 pic also shows an outrigger on the mast and what looks like a so called 'strossed' antenna.
This was a version of the vertical antenna where the antenna wire was extended back down over the outrigger to increase the effective length in an attempt to improve the matching to the 50Ohm output of the TX RF power amplifier. Was not very successful and soon disappeared when robust whip and rod antennas with automatic tuning units were developed.😉 I leave it to you to decide which era and equipment you want to depict. Cheers Doug.
2 years ago by RNinMunich
Hobby Engine 'Richardson' Tug Upgrade
Yep, a Large scale IC doing most of the work, RX/Decoder, and some power transistors for the outputs. Not easily mod-able 😡
Suggest you have a look at the little switch boards from Action (Component Shop) Neil.
I made my own several years ago using CMOS chips and little 5V relays, but then I'm just like that😉
The Motor Sound Unit I understand looks after itself as it's coupled into the ESC control. So you just need switch boards for lights (nav and deck/cabin lights), smoke, other sound boards, e.g foghorn and/or ship's bell from Action? Have fun, Doug
2 years ago by RNinMunich
Layout and Limitations (con)
Exciters not wired yet. I cannot see any markings on them to indicate which way to do it. RN is coming to my aid............
Battery fits there OK and for getting in and out, but may be a little heavy. The Boat in the bath does not show the waterline than well.
Yes I do hope to have the Radar rotating and such a
s should be on its way.
Re circuit board, I will look at that with your prompts in my hand and see how I fair. As you indicate, I would like to retain such as the present lighting, but do away with the receiver part.
2 years ago by NPJ
Chesapeak Bay Maritime Museum
This is way more than just a maritime museum. The location in the heart the Chesapeak Bay Area, the home of the only sail ” fishing fleet in the U.S.A. No power drives at all with the exception of small ”pusher” units, kind of tiny, with room for a motor only! These are used to aid in getting to the fishery. The traditional boat is a Skipjack and the museum is a living boat yard. So even when there is no events there is always something to see. Model boat days are held around a large square tempary pool. One day is for scale and live steam, and another is free sail and model skipjack racing. We do not have control of the weather but I can not remember anything but sun on the days I have been there👍. The team at the museum are a great group of ladies and gentlemen who are passionate in their love of the sea and on model days you will find loads of helpful tips etc from all the “captains”. if you are visitors on holiday, Anapolis is no more than three quarters of an hour away, this is the home of the Rodgers collection of dockyard models and the worlds largest collection of French prisoner of war bone models (napolionic) in the world, it is a super nautical town!
the Chesapeake museum is in St.Michaels, with lots of super shopping for the non model boating spouses. Further up the road on Tilghman island is a fantastic nautical book store who specializes in model ships and boats. However you need to visit the book store a day before the show day as everyone will be looking for that rare and special book!!!!! Hope this is a help.
2 years ago by pugwash1
Hobby Engine Richardson Upgrade
I have an old Southampton , off E.Bay a couple of years ago. I fitted the Components shop mixer, 2x 3400mAH NiMh packs(one for each motor)2 Mtroniks 15A Marine vipers, Technobots diesel sound system and also a Technobots 16 channel sound system. There is not a lot of spare space! I had a problem with the mixer eventually. it worked very well, as I did not think the turning circle in the original form was very good. I took it out eventually and went over to tank steering, which is OK but seems to be more effective in turning one way rather than the other, it's fine in a straight line. I found out after I had removed the mixer that the supposed problem was of my own making. So many wires inside that I was not in fact charging one of the battery packs so it ended up flat. Nothing wrong with the mixer at all!
I mounted the engine sound speaker in the lower half of the cabin,where there was just enough room, where the window openings are not glazed(at least on my boat they aren't). Sound was OK but it was a bit lacking in volume, but I may need a higher power speaker, not sure as audio is a non area to me. The 16 channel unit is good in that a micro SD card is supplied with pre- recorded sounds, and instructions are given on how to record your own. The difficulty with this particular sound system is finding somewhere to put the second speaker as the 2 systems cannot be fed into the same speaker. it was a bit faint to say the least,possibly due to the tiny speaker I used. I tried to fit a transducer glued to the underside of the deck but there was no improvement so that is a work in progress.
The inside of the hull resembled a very untidy birds nest!
2 years ago by octman
Red Cat hydroplane
Hi. it is a scale model of a Formulaboats.com sponsord jet turbine powered hydroplane. I think this livery was from 2009. They can be seen racing on Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4HPB4PtT0k .As for the burning out motors that is sorted. Nothing to do with my cooling system but the unit I had from Hobby King seems to have a number of complaints about them burning out. So replaced it with a different model. HK have been very good and replaced all 3 failures. I will keep the latest replacement for another boat.
2 years ago by SimpleSailor
The Graupner Speed 900BB Torque specs are 6-40 volts, 6,500 rpm, 54A amps, shaft 6mm, dia. 51.5 mm, length 95mm and weight 645 grams.
A brushless motor like the Hobbyking L5055 600kv is 11.1- 22.5 volts(3S -6S) power 1500watts, 55 Amps, shaft 6mm, dia. 50mm, length 55mm and weight 311 grams.
On 3S=6660 rpm, 4S=8880 rpm and 6S=13500 rpm.
The brushless motors are far more powerful and with an ESC with handles up to 6S(22.5 volts) you would have rpm's to drive
a water jet unit.
2 years ago by canabus
I think I would be tempted to go brushless with it. Far more power for the size of motor. I don't think an 800 brushed motor would have the revs to push much water through a 50mm jet unit. Even an 850 motor would be an improvement. But going brushless, you could get far more revs out of it. Best of luck with your endeavours, Dave W 😀
2 years ago by rolfman2000
Glad to hear you have solved your problem. Overrunning any system will result in some interesting issues and you are fortunate that yours shut down or failed open circuit otherwise all the electronics could have cooked.
If you are getting a separate on-board power source the best option is to go for a switched mode supply, most will give you lots of amps without the heat problems of an ESC and are designed to work with higher battery voltages.
You must disconnect any +ve power lead from any ESC to your rx. if your ESC has an on/off switch do make sure it is switched on, preferable before you power up the switched mode unit.
Be good to see some pics or on water video
2 years ago by Dave M
What kind of ESCs are you using?
I would not use both BEC units even with your diode in place. Most manufacturers advise disconnecting one positive lead completely. Also if the ESC has a switch both ESCs must be switched on as I have damaged one of mine because it was switched off but still appeared to work. Result was similar to RH Bakers problem. I suspect the Mosfet gate voltage was exceeded without the internal power to the ESC, causing it to go permanently on. I also believe this may have been developed over time as I am sure this instance was not the first. The ESC still worked OK in reverse but went full on as soon as the stick on the tx was put forward. Further checking also revealed the internal BEC was dead. Sealed unit so no chance to repair.
As Doug says a separate power supply is a better option if you have room, and modern switched mode supplies are freely available and will deliver much greater power for all your servos, lights etc
2 years ago by Dave M
Smoke Generator (Water Vapour type)
I recently required a smoke generator (ultrasonic Type) it is not in working order but I have rigged it up to test and bypassed the circuit board powered by 2 X 12 volt batteries and managed to get the vapourising unit to function, and the 12 volt fan motor with a separate supply to also work. With some work to replace the 12v to 24v converter CN6009 it should satisfactory. This unit appears to be a DIY job but very similar to MMB Foggy Smoke Generator which is available. Note the component required CN6009 I have sourced on ebay. Soon as it arrives I will set it up and test its suitability for a 1/24 scale TID tug boat model I am building. Problem might be size of smoke generator and other components required to fit in the hull in addition to a 12 volt 9ah battery scooter battery, there aint much space.
There are smaller smoke generators available which burn oil (fan powered) which I have in one of my other models (Blazer Tug Boat) which is OK with no wind and close up but at any distance hard to detect if any smoke is being produced. The Oil recommend for this unit is Baby Oil which smells OK but I have wondered if I could use another oil based fluid which would produce more smoke (Any suggestions)?
2 years ago by andyhynes
RAF rttl D2763
A brief history
After the second world war and as part of the occupational forces the Second tactical air force the RAF took over Sylt airport in 1945 and later in 1946 the RAF decided to use the airport and the airspace west of Sylt and Amrum as a firing range, and was known as RAF Sylt Armament Practice Station. From February 1948 to February 1949 the airfield was closed and prepared for the operation of jet aircraft.
For target practice a target towing Squadron was stationed continuously on the station. The aircraft used were Miles M. 25 Martinet, hawker Tempest TT, DE Havilland mosquito TT. 35, Gloster Meteor F. 8, Meteor T 7.
For instruction and training flights the flight also had some DE Havilland vampire T. 9s, hawker Hunter F. 4s, Hunter T. 7s.
The aircraft of the target towing squadron were housed in the hangar of 402 near the South West of the Station. Therefore, the unofficial designation of weapon training squadron 402 was used at the time.
For patrolling and securing the range area, as well as for rescue and training operations Marine Craft Section boats were stationed at List and Hörnum, Bristol Sycamore HR 14 rescue helicopters were Also station at RAF Sylt.
Air traffic control boats and HSLs were stationed in the port of List at the beginning of the fifties (see pictures)
In 1954, the decision was taken to replace the air traffic control boats and the HSLs with RttLs mk2s Rescue Target Towing Launch. As part of the rebuilding program to help the German economy the boats were designed and built by Krogerwerft Yard at Rendsburg. (Later taken over by Lursson ship builders) and were numbered D2762- D2766 these boats came in service mid 1955 which explains why my Father severed on both HSL and D-boats (preferring the D-boat) D2762 and D2765 Based Hörnum, D2763 and D2764 from List, with D2766 as a reserve boat in the event of maintenance or breakdown,
Their design was very different to any other boats in the Marine Craft Section/unit more like the German Schenllboot or S Boot (allied code name 'E' Boat which my father always used), with flared bows and rounded bilges and powered by high speed diesels.
The D boats were fitted with winches for Target Towing, these were removed as the boats duties were change to Range Safety and ASR
These boats only served with the RAF, until 1961. Two were sold to the south African Air force D2762 and D2764 in1961, and the other three handed over to the Federal German Navy in 1961. All were subsequently used as ASR craft.
D- Boats in German service
The German Navy, the “Bundesmarine commissioned them on 1.9.1961 as FL 9 to FL11 and were used by Marinefliegergeschwader 5"naval aviation Squadron 5” Until end of September 1975. the three were termed as air traffic control
The fate of these three boats is a bit uncertain, one of these boats was in the process of being sold as NVG S1 as a North Sea supply boat, this deal fell through and the boat was sold to private owner in italy (no further record for this boat found) the other two boats are said to been scraped or de-commissioned , however these boats are quit properly the two that ended up in the service of the Spanish customs service as cutters, after they were confiscated when smuggling, I have tried to contact the Spanish about these boats but have not heard from them and presume they were scraped or sold in to private hands ( there is the suggestion that they were driven on rocks and sunk, no evidence found)
D-boats of the South African air force/navy
The two boats that were obtained by the south African air force in 1961 were originally known as R30 and R31 and they served under SAAF until 1969 when the unit was taken over by the south African navy and R30 became P1552 and R31 became P1551 these were changed again when holiday makers referred to the boats as PISS1 and PISS1 too R30 to P30 and R31 to P31.
Both these boats were diffidently sunk R30 Lost off Saldanah Bay on 7 October 1988 after striking a reef off Danger Point. R31, near Cape Point, after she grounded through contaminated fuel issues
There are somethings about these boats that strike me as odd,
The originations that took over these boats, they don’t like to mention the fact that these were ex-RAF or British boats,
There is no record of the Spanish boats, it is said that they were sunk but no details are available except what is said on one form.
I think I have done as much looking for information as I can, most of the bare facts are stated so thanks to all those web sites and forms that I have used and the pictures I have used
I would like to thank to Dave M for the drawing
And thanks to the marine craft branch museum for their help and for putting me in touch with Mr Rick Mortby who built the museums model of the D boat
And a big thank you to Rick Mortby for the scale drawing and for his trust.
And to Dr Christian Ostersehlte historian for Lurssen shipbuilders for the pictures of my Fathers boat D2763
and now I can start the building of the model D boat
2 years ago by teejay
That should be OK. The speed controller in the picture is marked made in China and their rating of 128 amps seems very optimistic.
That said we have looked at all the components and the only remaining possible cause, assuming the motors and ESC are not faulty, is the prop sizes and pitch. if they are causing a too heavy load on the motor then the current will be excessive and your new battery is certainly capable of providing lots of power.
I do believe the ESC was cutting out due the overheating. As others have said you cannot always rely on Chinese ESC quoted ratings, and in my experience they seem to have missed out a decimal point.
You have several options:
1. make a reduction unit between each motor and prop so the load on the motor is reduced.
2. fit smaller props
3. measure the stall current of each motor using a watt-meter and buy two speed controllers with double this current capacity.
Initially I would experiment with option 2 to prove the props are the cause of the problem.
You can then decide if you wan't to try another option. Option 3 will result in shorter sailing times.
2 years ago by Dave M
Yes I intended to use silicon to fix the motors on the Perkassa. Works well and acts as a damper to any noise.
The battery really depends on your speed controller as that may have a max voltage of say 12v. it's not a big model so I suspect a 3 cell 11.1v at 2200/3000 mA would suffice and provide plenty of power for the two motors. if you have a 7.2 NiMh available I suggest you try that and see if its fast enough. A 7.4 LiPo will give more endurance and speed so a 2 cell may suffice.
LiPos do need protecting from over discharge so make sure your ESC has such protection or buy an add on unit that warns you when the battery voltage is too low. The ESC version is better as it cuts or reduces the current before damage is done.
The Amp/Hr rating gets dearer the higher you go, so its down to you as to what you buy. Higher ratings will give you more speed but also longer running times.
Glad the coupling worked.
2 years ago by Dave M
Skeg on King Fisher
Yes, i see what you mean, with the shaft being extended, try to lower the angle of the shaft, this could be done in situ, or if the keel has not been fitted yet, re-drill the hole so that the shaft and motor will sit closer to the bottom of the hull, you cant go to far as the prop will foul the hull, but as Dave said, the hull was designed for an IC
, so needed the space to start the motor
3 years ago by jarvo
Epoxy coating the hull
Looks like an excellent job and you'll have a good base for the final finish.
I wish I had known about this technique two and a half years ago when I restored a 1962 34 inch Crash Tender which was advertised in the local paper.
The boat had been daubed in yellow primer with the cabin roof missing and I stripped it down to the bare wood. The only consolation was that it had never had an I.C installed and so the interior was clean.
The position of the holes in the motor mount appeared to indicate that the
had been one of the medium sized Taycol motors. 😊
3 years ago by boaty
Power supply (temporary) for the charger.
The power supply that I want to go with the Turnigy charger is out of stock at Hobbyking so as a temporary measure I have decided to convert an old PC power supply for the purpose.
I'm not going into any detail on how this is achieved because unless you have the required skills and knowledge it is best not to mess with power supplies. 💀
A PC power supply actually has a number of different voltage outputs but I'll just be utilising the 12v output.
Two insulated sockets are fitted to the side of the power supply case for the output, and a switch and a couple of led's and current limiting resistors are fitted to the back panel, the existing rocker switch is the main on/off switch and the small toggle switch 'starts' the power supply, the LED's just indicate power on and 12v output present.
For now this unit will be sufficient for my purposes until the unit I want is back in stock at Hobbyking, in the meantime I am now able to charge the NiMH battery packs that have arrived and test the boats electrical system.
3 years ago by robbob
Your calculation is correct at full loading.
I can understand your logic regarding using the ESC at 50%. This I believe will limit the voltage output of the ESC which at full loading will result in increase amp draw.
In selecting a power set up it is easier to limit the current draw to about half the motor rated max, in your case 105/2 = 52 (approx) amps. Using a 7.4v battery will result in a wattage of 385 at 52 amps.
You can ensure your model is running at this rating by fitting a Wattmeter between the ESC and motor and measuring the Watts and /or current whilst holding the model in the water.
The 160 amp (max current) ESC should be good for 80 amps continuous so well within the spec for your motor.
If you are drawing more current than 50amps its possible the motor is overloaded for the thrust propeller in the unit. A 3760Kv brushless is more suited to a model plane or helicopter. A brushless with a Kv of 300 to 800 would be much better, drawing less current and giving you longer sailing time.
As regards the amp rating, my experience is that almost all manufacturers quote the max current value rather than the sustainable running current value. Probably why most use an ESC rated at twice the expected running current.
With the wattage values you are running I would expect some form of water cooling would be required for both motor and ESC.
Hope this clarifies and good luck with getting the correct setup
3 years ago by Dave M
Thanks for your advice and thoughts.
I look forward to more info from your club member. I'm still waiting impatiently for the new year to make a start so am spending the time gathering a few things together.
Advice on the
inclines towards two 900kv outrunners with 60amp esc's.
Not got as far as props yet. What do you think?
3 years ago by cormorant
receiver voltage output
Getting back to my original query, if I take power from the BEC connector of one of the 2 ECS, using the ve and -ve wires only, I still need to send the required signals to the sound unit to make it function. Can I therefore take a connection from the signal pin of the channel I want to use, or is that too simplistic to work? Also is it OK to connect a voltmeter across the ve and -ve wires coming from the BEC connector test test the voltage is correct?
3 years ago by octman
receiver voltage output
I have two ESC's (mtronics Viper Marine 15)and a P40 mixer from Action Electronics. Because of this the motors have their own batteries, 7.2volts, and the receiver has it's own 6volt supply. Neither of the ESCs provides power to the receiver, although they are obviously connected to it, the central wire is removed from the connector and taped back, out of the way, so could I use one to supply the power for the sound unit? The mtronics spec for this BEC unit is 1.2A but the voltage is not mentioned.
3 years ago by octman
receiver voltage output
The sound unit is powered from the rx so the ESC 5v power (current) will be limited by the rx BEC. The on-line manual warn against this possibility so either a separate battery or BEC supplying the unit is required.
If the ESC gives a suitably high current output is would be possible to take a feed from the leads ie before they go to the rx but many ESCs do not have a high output and also may be higher than 5v.
The UBEC suggested would meet all the power requirements for a model and if 2.4Ghz equipment is being used should eliminate the brown outs caused by the voltage dropping too low because of too high a current demand.
3 years ago by Dave M
Wahine was a car passenger ferry of the Union Steamship Co. of New Zealand, and completed by Fairfields in 1966. She was lost in a major storm in the Cook Strait in 1968 with the death of 53 people. The model is substantially scratch-built with some fittings purchased. it is driven by two Graupner Speed 500 motors powered from two 6.6V 3200mAh LiFe batteries. it is fitted with twin stern and a single bow rudders, and bow and stern thrusters as on the original. The smoke effect is provided by a Steam Master Unit.
3 years ago by Trillium
Victory Industries Vosper Fire Boat RC conversion part 8
I think I may adapt the if it ain't broke don't fix it saying with this conversion.
😊 So many times I have ripped out the stock motor and added a more powerful unit.
This time I think I will try the Mighty Midget and belt drive.
I powered it up with a rubber band for now and a two cell 7.4V battery and I was impressed with the speed the props were turning.
I have found that powering a motor made for dry cell batteries with a more modern battery capable of supplying more current the motor will deliver more power.
I have vet to try an in water test as I know the poor rubber band would not survive.
I plan to get a suitable size O ring to use for the drive.
It should be just a matter of adding a small ESC and servo for the rudders.
I don't want to cut the deck off so this may prove challenging.
Still in the thinking stage.
Can you smell the smoke. 💭
3 years ago by subdave
😊 I like the model and the motor. Fondly remember Taycol motors in the 1960s. I had an Asteroid in a Veron Viceroy and cost a fortune in dry batteries though it was very enjoyable,
I remember the Basset Lowke ready to sail boats which I later found that the same models had been produced in the 1930s. Both models were 39 inches long and one of them ,Streamlinia was steam powered launch with a funnel to the aft of the main cabin and the other was a similar sized launch with a different superstructure and electric power.
I must say that Margaret is a masterpiece with traditional quality and detail and a
Does anyone know if Basset Lowke are still in business?
The last time I saw their name advertised was over 10 years ago when I saw a couple of new O gauge steam locomotives in a model shop
3 years ago by boaty
Dangers of charging LIPOS
Another salutory lesson. Lucky you used a charge bag, but I doubt if you will never ever leave a LiPo to charge unattended.
Good question as to quality. if you are paying good money for your batteries it seems pointless to choose a cheap charger. Many of the Chinese imports are not compliant with all the required parameters and could pose a risk. I'm sure many have perfectly good chargers sourced abroad but you could be taking a risk. Remember if the charger fails you will most probably also lose the battery.
There are many UK suppliers of suitable Lipo chargers and if you have a local model shop they will be able to advise on what other customers are using. Model flyers have been using LiPos for several years and will have identified the safest and best chargers available. Usually the dearer models allow for more cells and faster (higher current) charging. if you are not racing and do not need to fast charge there really is no need to pay for a feature you don't require.
Cell balancing is a must and I would not entertain a charger that didn't have this feature.
LiPos are high
s and need to be operated within their perameters. Good batteries will advise on the minimum discharge voltage and max charge current. You should set your ESC to this discharge voltage and set you charger to the correct number of cells and max charge current, many chargers will do this automatically when the balance lead is connected, and you should not charge without this connected
Finally a routine inspection of the LiPo should be undertaken before and after each usage. Any ballooning may indicate damage, with loose oxygen causing the balloon. Batteries should be at ambient air temperature before charging.
Here's to safe charging
4 years ago by Dave M
Great idea that, using a pulse jet.
I understood that in the past this has been tried on tethered hydroplanes and certainly it would be cheaper than gas turbine units.
Nearest large area of water to myself, apart from the River Mersey is Bala Lake in North Wales but I dont know how the locals would react.
Only person I knew who sailed a model boat on Bala was in the late 1980s and the boat was a scale model tug.
Fastest model I ever had was a J.B Marine Hypercat in 1994/95.
This was powered by a water cooled Graupner 700 brushed motor running on 2 X 8.4 volt nicads with top speed being 35 to 40 m.p.h.
However, the boat met its end on Walton Hall Park lake in Liverpool when some debris fouled the rudder and it crashed into the concrete bank , took off and nosedived onto the footpath.
It did have a nice rooster tail and thrilled many spectators.
I have been contemplating getting another fast electric and wonder if a waterjet unit is available to give equal performance.
4 years ago by boaty
R.A.F Vosper Fire Boat
An ebay buy now fully restored custom made and commercial fittings.
Electric manufactyrer and voltage unknown it will soon be time to test it on the water
4 years ago by silverfox
weeeeeeeeeeeeeeel I guess you could refurbish your controller but honestly the only way your controller could work is to use resistors to control speed and that is VERY wasteful of battery power.
Since your motors are brushed a couple of esc units will control your motors they are not expensive and will Improve things out of all proportion.
Since you will be using the bec ( battery eliminator ) disconnect the positive line in one of the esc servo connector. Then use a "Y" lead to connect to your receiver.
4 years ago by Haverlock
Built from a plan in 'Model Boats' in the 80's with a balsa hull and ply decking. Powered by a single cylinder 'Unit Steam Engine' from the same era, and a meths fired boiler. Only recently has radio control been added.
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