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    Response
    Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build Z7
    "Buildings 100+yrs old are still standing but many designed using computers fall down!?" Not to mention Stonehenge, the Pyramids (well - some 0f 'em๐Ÿค”) or the Pantheon JB๐Ÿ˜‰ Mathematically perfect, without even a slide rule! Been inside a coupla times, magnificent. And Roman concrete, as in the dome, is better and harder wearing than ours! "unless someone had programmed that particular solution in to give it a choice." ... and even then the idea had to spring from the mind of the human programmer. Hope I'm not around when computers start
    programming
    computers!๐Ÿ˜ฎ ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    7 days ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Friday's Child Fairey Huntsman 31
    Hi Stuart, At 23" your Huntsman is only a tad smaller than my 24" Sea Scout which I refurbished last year, look for the build blog 'Jessica - A Sea Scout restoration' on this site. I fitted a 1000kV 28mm Propdrive motor and Quicrun 16BL30 30A ESC from Hobbywing. including the ESC
    programming
    card the whole kit an' caboodle was just under 40 dollars from Hobbyking.com. With a 2S LiPo (7.4V) performance was sedate to adequate. With a 3S LiPo performance is 'twinkling' and a lot of fun to drive. Check out attached video links. Pt1: https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw First run with a 3S LiPo. Pt2: https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM 'The competition'! Pt3: https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw 'Final run', the Bier was getting warm Prop is a brass 30mm 3 blade from Raboesch. Hope this helps, Happy Sailing. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Video is in HD 1080p, taken at the Ostpark Lake in Munich (adjacent to the Biergarten๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜) May 2018.
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Hi John, regarding the rudder, the 'Normal' and 'Reversed' designations are purely arbitrary. If you put a servo arm in one position on the servo, then remove it and place it at 180 degrees to the original position, the servo is reversed with respect to the original position. Try it with a spare servo and servo arm. The Normal/Reverse options on the transmitter are only there to allow for variations in servo to servo arm location variations. The 'Normal' designation is somewhat misleading. As far as the ESC goes, that is sorted by
    programming
    the ESC. That's my 2.7p worth. (5 cents Australian) Cheers, Terry
    7 months ago by terrymiff
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Steve, Sorry to have to correct you BUT changing the Running & reverse Mode IS described in the instructions posted, see Step 3 , as shown in attached Snipping Tool clip. After selecting 'Running Mode' as the parameter to change (Step 2) wait for the two beeps close together. Then immediately shove the throttle stick forward. You should then hear the 'special tone' which tells you that you selection has been saved. Move the stick full back within 2 secs of this tone and you exit the
    programming
    mode and all should be stored. If you still have to command reverse twice then the ESC may simply not be capable of normal For/Rev. Although the table indicates that it is. I often wonder why folk buy this stuff without instructions! Just to save a few shekels? Or was it found in a flea market or donated? Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Steve, have you calibrated the throttle first? (read 2 and 2.2) on the instructions, You have to give the ESC a full, low and mid-point throttle position before you can start the
    programming
    . Plug in motor and ESC BEC lead into throttle position in REC. Turn on TX and give it full throttle. (make sure motor is held firmly as it may kick hard if started) Program - plug in batt wait 2 secs for beeps then wait 5 secs for musical tone (now in program mode) wait for 1,2,3 or 4 beeps (asks which program you want and will keep cycling through till you chose one) as soon as you hear the no of beeps for the program you want quickly pull the stick to the bottom and wait for the reply,- it will now cycle through the programs in step 3. Choose the one you want in the same manner as the last selection but by moving the stick to full throttle (if you miss it it will cycle round again) Hold it there and it will reply (musical beeps) wait and the program will return to step 2 and you can select the next setting to enter and repeat the process. Safest to set Auto battery and then the others as per chart especially min batt volts. Once happiness filled, follow the Program Exit instructions (step 4) Also as 'RN' previously mentioned, if you have a Futaba, you may have to reverse the throttle to make it all work. When finished, unplug batt, turn off TX, re start everything (TX, Batt/RX) and check. AS A PRECAUTION,MAKE THROTTLE NEUTRAL BEFORE RE STARTING IF YOU HAVE SET FWD AND REV, OR LOW IF NOT. BE AWARE THROTTLE MAY BE REVERSED ALSO). You may have to have a few goes but you will get there and realize it's not that difficult after all . if in doubt just un-plug the battery and start steps again. Just think of it like the ESC is asking you "do you want this"? at a particular set of beeps, and you are replying by moving the stick, or ignoring that question and moving to the next one. if you are using a pistol grip TX just let the trigger go and it will give you neutral/center (as per instructions 2.2
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Right I'm in a similar position. Plugged it all in an just got beeping noises. After some fiddling it all fired up. But, somehow I have programmed it but don't know with what info. The motor will run but not both ways. is off at the mid position and is at full chat with less than half lever travel. The ESC is a Top Edge SC060B and I have been unable to find any instructions. So, what can be programmed in? How do I get it back into
    programming
    mode? The instructions earlier in this thread mention a 'brake mode' but give no indication what this is? Help
    9 months ago by steve-d
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Hi Toby, that's exactly why I do not use a 'Dumbphone' for such things. I also have a Samsung so called smartphone, I use it for telephoning (now there's novel) and SMS and occasional snapshots if I don't have a real camera with me. First thing I do with a Smartphone is dump all the the bl***y pre installed Apps that I don't need and just take up memory space or constantly try to 'Call Home' and demand updates๐Ÿ˜ก As you have discovered; it's the Apps that are smart (or not๐Ÿ˜ฒ) and NOT the phone itself. Like any computer; 'Rubbish in = Rubbish out'! Before I left UK to work in Germany I worked for a year or so with the then Home Office Radio Regulatory Department and the then 'start up' Vodafone on Acceptance Test systems for the phones and surveying for cell sites. it was pretty clear even then, reading between the operating software lines, where things were going! My first job here in Munich was re
    programming
    a test system for mobile phones so that it actually did what was needed to simulate the network and prove all functions of the mobiles. Searching for cell sites with two great guys from the Home Office labs was a lot more fun - but the Germans paid better ๐Ÿ˜ As you rightly noted 'Ich bin ein Nachteule'! Aber jetzt reicht's mir auch! Gute Nacht, Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Arun now sorted.
    programming
    card did not work so I translated the pidgin english instructions for the ESC and it worked using the Tx. I now have forward and reverse, correct prop rotation and no battery protection. Also the water cooling system for the ESC works with the water exiting from the exhausts on the stern. On the down side the nav lights have stopped working! Pictures of installation and finished boat later.
    10 months ago by rapidair65
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Doug, you are probably correct and good thought regarding the polarised caps , but I was just thinking that if the battery input was going through a fuse system as it appears in Rowens photos (difficult to see) it may have caused a slight problem. I have seen mentions of up to 12" between batt and ESC being no problem at lower Amps. You might notice that one of the inputs was from a guy from Castle Creations (USA) which I thought would give a bit of weight to the information. I have always gone with the ESC manufacturers suggestions regarding wire length and have never had a problem in boats or planes (mainly in planes,-18 most 'converted' to electric from IC -3 capable of pulling 1200W) it's great to be able to chuck ideas and info around, as we can all pick something out of it all which will solve a problem, or perhaps stop us from toasting an electronic component or whatever. BTW, I saw somewhere that extending the wires could cause stuttering and that was one other reason for mentioning the info, as I know Rowen's had a problem with that. I'm sure it will be ok as is,- if its working fine, and it's not going to be run flat out every day it will probably last for years. Probably me thinking on the cautious side as my personal approach to building is to use the K.I.S.S method (may not be the flashest but usually keeps me out of trouble) Regarding the quality of ESCs, you will find that many have the same internal bits just with different cases and colours, (same with chargers) HK is bad for this. Many I have seen use an Atmega chip and you can tell differences by the
    programming
    method (some you have to do 1 step and disconnect power before the next step, others just with stick forward center back center etc. Most boards are made in China (Castle Creations and a few others being exceptions) and what you get depends on the quality of assembly/soldering etc in the plant they are made in (if you want to see how many of these items are made in China check out Made in China.com and search ESCs for example. I have cheap ESCs I've used in my planes for years with no probs which look like the HK Red Brick ESCs (except blue) and they are better than the TGY branded ones at 3x the price, and really let the power through !. Even CC have apparently made boards for HK with different cases as have Hobbywing. it's really a case of "you pays ya money and ya takes ya chances". in saying that you are pretty safe with Hobbywing, Tamya, SkyRc, or Castle Creations (USA) but there are other better non China ones around but a a much bigger price. Hope we aren't overloading you Rowen, you might have to get into the 'anti-freeze' to soothe the brain in that cold weather. Another site for you to check out which I have found to be very good, with prices to match HK is RCEcho.com (Hong Kong) Have bought most of my aircraft ESCs from them (around 28 from 30A-120A with no probs)
    10 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Doug, Am using the HobbyKing 50A Boat ESC 4A UBEC along with their
    programming
    card. The diode explanation makes sense so will fit one. jbkiwi My battery -ESC and ESC -motor wires are short, probably around 4" each. The addition of capacitors as suggested is intriguing as have never heard of it before. Think it is easier to keep things together in a boat, whereas with an aircraft pitch trim becomes a factor. Am using 2S batteries with a 50A ESC, with the motor max current of 30 A. Have you any idea what size of capacitor I should use? The Tx/Rx combinations are almost infinite as the ESCs are programmable too. Just wish the ice would go so can experiment! Thanks both for your help, with this hobby you never stop learning.
    10 months ago by RHBaker
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Thanks jbkiwi and RN in Munich for your suggestions: Have never used Ali Express, those components look interesting. Will follow up. I have used a battery alarm of the type suggested and it does work well. Have a couple for use once back on water. The rule about adding a capacitor into the ESC circuit is new to me. Have ferrite rings fitted so will now explore adding capacitors too. Are these is series or parallel with the wiring? The relays are not used with diodes or any electronic gubbins. Wanted to make the circuit as simple as possible for a Mechanical Engineer, so used one separate relay per ESC. The relay operation is controlled by a RC switch off another Rx channel. it seems to work. Am aware of the back feed possibilities and hope to have avoided them with the separate circuits. Appreciate any thoughts though, can add diodes if necessary. Am using a new FLYSKY 10 Ch. Tx/Rx on this model which opens up a host of
    programming
    opportunities. Am experimenting with various features such an the interval between Fwd/Rv also limiting ESC response. As am now using the brushless motors essentially in unison, also toying with controlling the 2 x ESCs on a โ€œYโ€ lead on a single control. Much to think about, pity our winter has arrived early and the pond has been converted to a skating rink.
    10 months ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    The Arun lives! All wiring completed this morning, Tx turned on, stick full forward, boat turned on, esc bleeped, stick to neutral, more bleeps, advanced throttle, both props turn in correct direction for ahead propulsion, motors stop when returned to neutral. No reverse yet so it looks like the esc will need
    programming
    . Down at Derby Model Boat Club tomorrow to consult our
    programming
    guru. Result!๐Ÿ‘
    10 months ago by rapidair65
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Mornin' Martin, I've never used a trigger throttle (and never want to!) but I suspect that yanking back is Full throttle, which means you need to push it forward for
    programming
    !! Corresponding to stick back (or down) on a normal two stick set. Which is motor stop on such an aircraft ESC with no bacckuds. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS: just checked the manual for a typical Flysky Pistol Grip set (usual Chinglish gibberish๐Ÿค”) but it confirms that trigger hard back is 'Full Ahead' !! BTW: since you appear to be using an aircraft ESC on a Car/Boat radio set (not a good idea!) make sure that before you switch on the RX that the throttle trigger is pushed right forward. Otherwise the motor will go off half cock straight away. if you release the trigger it will probably go to the 'Half Ahead' position. So mind your fingers.๐Ÿ˜ก
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Hi Doug, as you can probably guess, I have as much chance of
    programming
    an ESC as flying with my own wings to Munich! The ESC didn't come with any instructions. I didn't know they needed them! More to the point, how the Hell can a motor beep? Where's the beeping kit in a motor with one moving part? So, now what. it's a Flysky pistol grip 3 channel (third is a switch) set of Tx and pre bound Rx. The ESC ? Gawd knows, a flat thing inside a big yellow heat shrink casing. I got it from China recently. All I can do is take a picture of it with my nice new camera tomorrow. Does it matter which way round those three wires go on the motor? I'll post pictures tomorrow. Thanks, Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    Dear Martin, the motor is beeping because the ESC is telling you it needs
    programming
    . It sends a series of pulses to the motor to do this.
    programming
    means telling the ESC where is neutral on the throttle stick, and where are full ahead and full astern. Check the ESC instructions to see how to do this. If you get stuck again tell me exactly which TX, RX and ESC you are using and I'll see what I can do. Cheers, Doug BTW; IF you do decide to ditch all your 'working stuff' please send me an inventory for first dibs!! ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/receiver
    Looks perfect Mike, no
    programming
    , uncomplicated to use for the littlun, and at that price what have you got to lose? Don't dump the 35Meg set, you never know when you might need it! Like me and my Sanwa 35Meg set, 30 odd years old and still works fine so I keep it as backup for my Catalina. It's great that your getting your grandson started, we're gonna need replacements for the Old Codger Guard some time, and that includes me๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿค“ All the best, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    PT 109 upgrade?
    Not necessarily Bubble, By correctly
    programming
    the ESC for a soft start and a not too aggressive acceleration curve you can tame brushless at low speed and stop 'em leaping ahead like scalded cats! Worked fine on my Sea Scout upgrade. Even adjusting the motor timing can help with the fine tuning. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Been researching the squeal and stutter on other websites and conclude RFI is probably not the major contributor. Others attribute it to a mismatch in the ESC / motor timing, which seems more likely. Whatever caused it, resulted in the affected motor failing. Which came first, the failure causing squeal or squeal causing failure is open to conjecture. Much to my surprise the manufacturer has decided to replace the motor under warranty. In the meantime, the motors I had planned to use originally (2800kV Outrunners) came into stock, so purchased a couple. Until now have had to use the ESC default settings as did not have a
    programming
    card. This also arrived with the motors. Following advice from another contributor reprogrammed the motors with โ€œsofterโ€ start and acceleration settings. Fitted and tried the new motors and settings. On the bench, the squeal and stutter have almost gone. The motors are also more tractable. As the brushless motors are now going to be used for high speed operation only, with slow on the centre brushed, thought could simplify the controls by putting the brushless ESCs on one control system using a โ€œYโ€ lead. However, this introduced inconsistent and erratic motor responses. Reverted to the two previous separate controls, port and starboard. On the water the performance is fine, as is the reliability. The 2S battery gave almost half an hours operation. The bow lifts nicely with both 2 & 3 S Batteries; plenty of spray. Hopefully resembling a 50 knot vessel! Another adjustment is needed to the transom flaps to try to hold the bow down later as she accelerates. Feeling now to finally be making progress with this model. The squeal has not gone, nor has erratic motor operation. The squeal is high pitched screech, rather like treading on a budgie! When it happens, bringing the control back to neutral and advancing it again almost always overcomes it. The erratic operation happens also when starting and is rather like the motors are not getting a signal to react to the control. Again, returning through neutral briefly seems to correct it. The revised motors and ESCs have increased the weight to 6lbs for the hull including all running gear, excluding batteries and superstructure. Whilst still trying to control weight have concluded this figure is satisfactory as the performance certainly is.
    1 year ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    ESC info...
    I was looking at that one! But as for the
    programming
    card...Gawd knows. I wouldn't know where to begin! Right now I'm bloody panicking as I can't find the Supermarine motor for the Crash Tender! I thought it was in the old motor drawer, but it ain't. I'm crossing fingers it's in a box in the loft. My son-in-law will have to go up there when the weather cools. Even he doesn't deserve the temperatures up there! Got my watt meter today, so that's now in a box with the condition meter and multi-meter, oh and the chenglish Charger and its power pack. BL motor and CNC 32mm prop still on the slow boat. So the ESC will be the last of the clobber for a while. By the time I have it all together it'll be Winter and all put away again! Thanks again, Doug. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Seat Trials and mods.
    Itโ€™s been a while since the boat had itโ€™s maiden voyage on the lake at St. Albans and Iโ€™m pleased to report that it looks really good in the water and goes like stink if you open up the throttle. Sadly I still donโ€™t have any decent video of the boat yet as I canโ€™t film and drive the thing at the same time, but I do have some static wide shots from my GoPro. When I do the video Iโ€™ll ask a cameraman mate to do the honours, maybe Iโ€™ll put the GoPro on the bow and then the stern to get some low action shotsโ€ฆthe storyboard is already building in my head!! These early runs were great as they showed up some minor problems that needed attending to. I found that it needed ballasting slightly as it was not sitting on the waterline evenly from side to side so I flattened out some old lead water pipe and cut it into small sections so that I could add ballast incrementally. I did this in the โ€˜domestic test tankโ€™ and once I was happy the lead pieces were fixed in place inside the hull with some super strong double sided tape. The ESC needed a little
    programming
    adjustment because I had forgotten to set the low battery level point to โ€˜offโ€™ as I am using NiMh batteries and not LiPoโ€™s , that was the cause of the short initial run time on the first outingโ€ฆ..DOH !! The batteries are now held in place by Velcro straps on some bearers that I added, otherwise a battery change involved cutting cable ties and replacing them at the lakesideโ€ฆnot very practical. The volt/amp/watt meter is also now on a proper bracket so that the display is more readable. I have also changed the charging connection from the nasty Tamiya connector to a nice little panel mount XT 60 connector that HobbyKing sell, it comes with a handy blanking plug that I have drilled for a retaining cord. I have also finally got around to upgrading the firmware on my Turnigy i6 radio to the 10 channel version so that I can assign the lighting to the switches properly and have the rotation of the searchlight on one of the two rotary knobs. I can use the old 6 channel RX in the new boatโ€ฆ.blog coming soon.
    1 year ago by robbob
    Forum
    ESC info...
    So, the
    programming
    is done with the TX.? Ah, right. I didn't understand a word of the instructions, though. I don't want want backuds or brakes. it's an outboard racer. Don't do backuds. And my other boats, even if they had a brushless wouldn't do backuds either. All speedboats. I don't have a club to go to, so no fiddly steering competitions. Guy I met last Monday about setting up a local group has already disappeared. How like model boaters. Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Forum
    ESC info...
    Hi Martin, Scroll further down in the description and the How and Why of the
    programming
    is explained. Basically; reverseable ESCs are generally factory set for the truckers,car racing and buggy boys! That means that before you can go from forwards to reverse, or vice versa, the ESC commands the motor to stop, this is to protect the landlubbers gearboxes๐Ÿ˜‰ it's irritating for boat drivers to have to shove the stick twice each time you want to reverse the motor, makes precise control more difficult. So for boats you need to switch off this function.
    programming
    also means teaching the ESC the Max forward, Stop and Max reverse throttle stick positions. Looks like a decent deal to me๐Ÿ‘ A
    programming
    card isn't essential, you CAN use the TX and listen carefully to the 'Beeps', but the card is much easier. More 'lecktrickery' ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
    Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's! One thing at a time! NUMBER1. THE RADIO- Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place???? I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600โ‚ฌ, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days. I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange. So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina. Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina๐Ÿ˜‰, cost only 69โ‚ฌ (is now available for around 33 quid๐Ÿ˜ก) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.๐Ÿ‘ In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap๐Ÿ˜‰) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it. If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and
    programming
    from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook. If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered? BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite๐Ÿ˜‰ NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY- Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity. After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above. This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity. Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above. And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect๐Ÿค” albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out! Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts. NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER - "Glorified voltmeter" ? Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'? If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age. If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below๐Ÿ˜‰ Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy๐Ÿ˜‰๐Ÿ˜ฒ) The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities). Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers. As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge. Unfortunately not๐Ÿค” Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above! RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?" a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker, b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing. NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity. BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge๐Ÿ˜ฒ The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature๐Ÿ˜‰ Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX? Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version. All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
    1 year ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming
    Cards
    Hi looks identical to goolrc brand available on ebay from uk sellerhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GoolRC-200A-Brushless-Water-Cooling-Electric-Speed-Controller-ESC-4-RC-Boat-R3U6-/282598266345?hash=item41cc2b55e9 also I use hot glue gun to seal instead of silicone
    2 years ago by BigAlio
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming
    Cards
    Brushless
    programming
    cards, can they damage the ESC if they are not the correct one, if not what are the problems associated, eg programmes wrong section. I have a new 200A brushless ESC but the instructions only show
    programming
    via the transmitter stick in response to tones. which I am having trouble turning off the brake option. I wondered if a programing card may work? I have two Hobbyking cards both with different options available, I just don't want to damage or mess up the configuration. Many thanks
    2 years ago by CB90
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming
    Cards
    Thanks for your responses, please note this ESC does not have a brand name (generic Chinese job) and it didn't have any mention of a card on the instructions. Anyway I tried it on 2 cards I have got and they did not work, resorted to sticks and code tones to turn off the break function. Boat ran well if a bit too powerful, may use 7.4v instead of 11.1v Features: 200A Brushless ESC with 5V/5A SBEC Water cooling. Waterproof design(Need to use 704 silicone rubber by yourself). This super simple boat series comes with a limited range of
    programming
    functions and are designed to be plug-n-play. A perfect ESC for those looking for something simple to use and economic. Specifications: Cont current: 200A Burst current: 230A BEC model: Switch BEC output: 5V/5A Recommend battery: Li-ion/Lipoly 2-7S;Ni-MH/Ni-Cd 6-20NIMH Cooling: Watercooled ESC weight: 124g ESC size: 92mm * 40mm * 22mm Please note only cost ยฃ17 at the time , now ยฃ32 (4/2018) via Amazon
    2 years ago by CB90
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming
    Cards
    I have 3 or 4
    programming
    boards from Hobbyking, and i have never thought of using one that isnt the correct one. But, having said that, the cards are now only six or seven pounds each, there seemed no sense in not buying the correct one when purchasing the esc. Good luck with however you choose to move forward. Best wishes, Dave W ๐Ÿ˜Š
    2 years ago by rolfman2000
    Forum
    Brushless
    programming
    Cards
    Hi CB90, I also have quite a few of Hobbykings esc's and they have changed quite a bit over the years, needing different
    programming
    cards, have just bought three new esc's with their own card ยฃ39.00 from HobbyKing. I try any one with all the esc's and have never had a problem,just make sure you plug into the card, + to + and - to -, you should be OK with no damage to either. cheers, Peter
    2 years ago by Rookysailor
    Forum
    Newbie radio control question
    Hi All, don't sweat about mode 1 or 2, you can easily reprogramme any stick or switch or pot to do whatever you want on any RX channel you want!๐Ÿ‘ If you want the ratchet throttle stick on the right hand side just swap the sticks over! There are instructions in the manual and demos on U-tube. I have one, a re-branded German version which they call 'Reely HT-6', and spent an entertaining evening chucking out all the fixed wing and heli presets. Attached is the excellent 68 page English User /
    programming
    manual I got with it. it has no Chin-english gobbledygook in it ๐Ÿ˜‰ I reprogrammed mine for various boats and a Sub no problems. A Good Buy, Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS I program my sets always for right stick rudder and throttle, leaves the left hand free for any 'special effects', or the Bierkrug ๐Ÿ˜‰ - I sail here on a lake in a Biergarten ๐Ÿ˜
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    PS re Monitor! There are separate 'Alarm' devices (i.e. Monitor) on the market for warning you if the Lipo is approaching the critical low voltage; 3.0 - 3.2V. Look on the sites selling batteries, they usually have the Monitors as well. Some can allegedly be coupled to the feedback telemetry to warn you on the TX display, but i ain't tried that yet ๐Ÿ˜‰ LiPo Safe ESCs can also be programmed to slow down or Stop when the voltage is low. This is (to me) about the only reason to buy a
    programming
    card for the ESC. Everything else; stick positions for Full Ahead, Full Astern and All Stop you can do with the TX! ๐Ÿ˜Ž PPS: Before Canabus jumps on me about
    programming
    cards! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ There is one other reason they can be useful: if you have a Car Escape as Canabus recommends! I discovered that they are usually delivered set up to 'Brake on reverse', which means that you have to shove the gas stick backwards twice to engage reverse. Otherwise it just STOPS!! The
    programming
    card enables resetting this to 'Boat Mode' so that the motors reverse immediately you pull the stick back. If you use Marine ESCs this isn't a problem as there ain't no Brake!
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    more progress.
    First job today was to reduce the rudders by 1cmx1cm which I think not only looks better but should reduce the affects that have been mentioned in comments below. Ive fitted the cockpit which I assembled yesterday. its not the best fit into the deck, however, I shall blend it all in with some balsa strip, sand, filler, sanding sealer hopefully for a seamless finish. I have pictured the 2 x Hobbyking waterproof boat 30 amp esc. These are supposed to be water cooled, however I am not going to fit the tubing and start drilling water pickup and exit holes in the hull x 4 until I think that water cooling is going to be necessary. Once I have watt meter readings for 2S and 3S lipo, it will give me an idea what the ESC are going to be like. Of course if you guys think I need to go water cooling, please let me know! I have an Mtroniks W-tail mixer that will allow the motors to be synched to the rudders allowing the inboard motor to slow or stop when turning. Never used one before, so may need to some
    programming
    once hooked up, we shall see. Last job today was to shoot a could of coats of red oxide primer on the lower hull to see what the resin finish was like. on the whole not a bad finish at all, just a could of tiny areas that need a little sanding for a faily blemish free finish.
    2 years ago by Skydive130
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    Hi MB, Sorry for late response, I've been occupied with varnishing and painting of my Sea Scout renovation. The Turnigy i6 and Flysky FS-6 are hardware identical but have slightly different software, not critical I understand. I have the German branded version of the Turnigy i6, called here HT-6. Attached is the excellent German / English User /
    programming
    manual without the Chenglish gobbledygook! Flysky Chenglish manual also attached for comparison. Only mistake I found in the manual is re Binding (see pic); they mention Binding button on the RX when it is on the TX at bottom left item 13 in the attached pic of my German branded Reely version. BTW; iA6 is the RX type number. The TX is TGY-I6 or FS-6 for Flysky. Pics 4 & 5 show my Reely HT-6 and Turnigy TGY-I6 versions. identical except for labelling, same goes for the Flysky - see manual. Re: Servos: I have tested my TX and an iA-6 RX with all sorts of servos; Sanwa, Futaba, Hitec amongst others some going back 30 years and they all work fine. I currently have an iA-6 RX and ancient Hitec standard rudder servo in my Sea Scout and it works just fine. Re: controlling the ESC; it just plugs into the RX like a servo. Usually channel 1 or 3 depending on whether you want throttle on the right or left stick respectively. Re: 3D printed stuff 'brittle or not'; depends on what type of filament they use for the print so can't really say. Up to now have not had problems. What I have noticed with some 3D plastic and resin items is surface defects, pits etc, which need some treatment before fitting. Resin also tends to be more brittle than 3D plastic prints. Resin don't bend well and don't like knocks! As I discovered with the resin gun barrels on my Graf Spee ๐Ÿ˜ก Will be replaced shortly with turned brass or Alu! Re: LiPos; attached is a file from Model Boats mag of Hints and Tips for using LiPos. it also explains the tech jargon surrounding brushless motors, i.e. interpreting model numbers and parameters๐Ÿ˜‰ All for now, cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Aerokits Patrol Torpedo Boat
    Hi Guys Looking at the motor 5,100 rpm @12 volts is 60 Watts of power. We use Hobbyking gear in our club mainly. As they have a special on a present with free delivery over $50 US. 3639-1100kv(800 Watts)(170 grams) is cheaper than the sister motor 3639-750kv(600Watts). ESC car 100 Amp is near half price. A
    programming
    card is required but these are cheap. We used a MFA Spearfish as a test boat with the 1100 and on Zippy Compact 3S 5800mah 60C(449grams) clock 27KPH. Changing to a Zippy Compact 4S 5800mah(567grams) 40C clock 37KPH. Run time a good half hour or more depending how fast you push it. We do not watercooling on this motor which will work out OK in your setup. The Hobbyking car ESC(part No.HK100A)(106 grams) has a fan for cooling and with the large interior of you boat heating will not be a problem. I am using this setup in both my Sea Commander and 1920 Gentleman's Runabout. My little Sea Hornet is using a 1900kv 28mm motor on a smaller 3S 2650mah. If you have no plans for your boat, I have a PDF copy(free of course). If you wish to go faster, a straight change over to the 3648 1450kv(1600 Watt) beast!!!! Canabus
    2 years ago by canabus
    Forum
    upgrading Turnigy i6 to 10 channels
    Hi Dave, yes you're right. My version is marketed by Conrad here in Germany under the brand name REELY and they call it the 'HT-6'. It came with comprehensive manuals in German and good English on a mini CD-RM. When I checked on the Conrad site (they have an excellent Downloads page ๐Ÿ˜Š) I found an update from 2015. I had no problems completely
    programming
    the TX unit from this manual. The only error in it was in para. 16 "press the binding button on the receiver ..." when of course it is on the TX! But at least the photo legend was correct๐Ÿ˜‰ If anyone wants a copy of the PDF file PM me and I'll mail it to them. This reminds me of the discussion we had on this unit and clones / branding a few months ago! When I looked on the Turnigy site I found only the half Chinese half English gobbledygook manual ๐Ÿค” which needs a lot of interpretation. Penalty I paid for much better documentation was that Conrad price was nearly twice the Turnigy/Hobbyking price ๐Ÿ˜ก Good luck Chris, - if I were you I'd do a 'Factory Reset' and start from scratch step by step. Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS w.r.t. 'using what for what' My Turnigy/Reely will probably be used for most surface ships. Will probably use my Spektrum DX6 for the Catalina, and I still have the old Graupner MC-10 40MHz for the two subs where 2.4 gig don't woik ๐Ÿค”. MC-10 only has two model memories so that fits! Now what can I do with the old Sanwa 35Meg job??? 30 years old and still going strong ๐Ÿ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Steam sound unit (variable speed)
    I have the following in my steam tug 'Alte Liebe' and I purchased it from Technobots originally but it is now sold by its original designer who now manufacture its under the name of Forge Electronics. http://forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php/boats/combo-mk3 You can change from petrol, diesel or steam and change each type according to how many cylinders you want to use. Simple
    programming
    via a plug and unit sound is proportional to speed and has an idle mode in the static position whereby the piston stops in steam or if using petrol/diesel the 'engine' shuts down then as soon as it receives a throttle input the 'engine' cranks over. I think it is a great unit.
    2 years ago by ads90
    Forum
    Twin motor control problem
    Another week and the problem remains despite trying different options. Plan is to buy two new ESC which do not require
    programming
    or setting up. The good old blue metal ones! Will let you know what happens of course.
    2 years ago by John2
    Place
    web site
    Hi Dave, Thanks for the advice (aimed more at the non-computer guys here I guess ๐Ÿ˜‰), but I was
    programming
    computers back in the 8 bit paper tape days! Due to limited storage space (kbytes not Giga or Terrabytes!๐Ÿค”) I quickly learned to use it sparingly and clear the junk out after every session! Nowadays it's sadly more of a security question. ALL my possible browsers are set to clear cache, cookies, searches, sites visited etc etc on closure. At the end of each session I also use CCleanerPro (formerly CrapCleaner!) to clear out all caches, MS usage logs, temporary thumbnails Temp files, and deleted files - Waste Basket and Uncle Tom Cobbley and all!. So there can not have been anything in the browser cache - especially on the very first attempt. I agree with your last comment - my interpretation is that when McAfee looked at the site it exhibited behaviour which is classed as Suspicious! I won't be trying it again. Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS: i suppose I could dig out the site report, but frankly it's not worth the bother, more interesting things to do! ColourCoats paints for the PT boat and T45 as well as LifeColor cammo colours for KM and RN WW2 arrived today. Only ordered 'em yesterday ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜Š
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Sea Queen refurbishment
    Need to keep up with these things as some of my stuff is on old drives that were on win3.1/XP/millennium/vista/NT./7/8.1/And now 10 sometimes a bit awkward moving between system's. But have a nephew who is a
    programming
    analyst and sorts it for me. Wish I could do it but Microsoft changes aren't always easy to keep up with unless your loaded and cost doesn't matter. Cheers Colin
    2 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Glazing help
    Hi Doug I used a trader (Steve Tranter- Model Boat Bits) to get the waterjet cutting done. The machine needs
    programming
    and I provided a spread sheet with the dimensions and they produced the file and did the cutting. As we were building two large models this was the only way we could get the project finished on time. I have been experimenting with crystal clear resin to produce portholes for a Confiance Class tug I am building. I made portholes out of brass on the lathe then filled the centre with the clear casting resin. I had bubbles in the initial attempt but by using a syringe and flicking the tube the bubbles all go to the top of the syringe and the result is to my liking. I do paint the portholes first. When dry I just glue in the fibreglass hull with epoxy. Mine are near the waterline and whilst cyano would work I don't trust it when wet as experienced with the Olympic. You could drill and fill your portholes with this, just need to place a blanking plate behind each porthole til the clear casting resin sets. I suspect this would be quicker than using acetate. incidentally I used to cut my acetate portholes with a heated brass tube. I used a piece of stainless rod inside the tube to push the portholes out. Cheers Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Programmable Tx
    Always assuming that the set actually transmits during
    programming
    ! I'm not convinced of that so will test with my Reely/Turnigy and Spektrum sets. Watch this space!! ๐Ÿ˜‰
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Tank Steering
    Don't quite know what started this but here goes The Turnigy HT-6 has the non-centering throttle stick on the left. if you want it on the right there are clear instructions, with photos, in the 68 page (!) manual to show you how. ๐Ÿ‘ Guess you can get a spare part if you want two non-centering. Will have a look tonight to see if it's 'modable'. I spent the evening on Wednesday
    programming
    one, disguised as a Conrad REELY HT-6 at twice the price ๐Ÿ˜ก๐Ÿ˜† of a Turnigy on Hobby King! I now have it doing what I want in mode 2 and not what it thinks an aircraft should be doing ๐Ÿ˜‰ Can recommend the set 6Ch with RX for ca $ 46 at Hobby King. โ‚ฌ80 at Conrad ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ Thinking of putting a Product Review together. Nothing else to do!! ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Place
    South Bavaria Scale Model Boat Builders
    Sounds good to me ๐Ÿ‘ Might just do that. Signing off now, it's 2:15 here now. Spent half the night
    programming
    and testing a new RC set and various ESCs! All A OK ๐Ÿ˜Š Cheers and good night, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS have fun in Ocean City, I assume boat eye candy is what I know as candy floss?
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    The electrics, drive & radio
    The switch panel and wiring loom was made, tested and dry fitted a while ago and so it only needs securing to the bulkhead with four fixing screws, the two NiMh batteries were strapped down to the bearers with cable ties as close to the chines as possible and the XT60 connectors mated. I have read that placing the heavy batteries as far away from the keel as possible improves the handling, all other heavy items are centered along the keel for symmetry and should help the boat to sit evenly in the water. Iโ€™m not sure if I will need to do any ballasting, hopefully the maiden voyages should give me an indication. The prop shaft was greased and fitted, and with the prop, thrust washers and lock nuts in place, the clearance was adjusted and locked with some Loctite so the motor could then be installed. The initial motor alignment was made with a solid coupler which was then replaced with the universal joint, I took the precaution to grind a flat on the motor shaft so that the locking grub screw has better grip on the shaft. The grease tube was then fitted to the shaft clamp and secured to the side of the switch panel. The ESC was fixed to the back of the bulkhead with another couple of cable ties and the input cables, again XT60 types, and the three pole XT60 motor connectors mated. I have also fitted a Turnigy in-line volt, amp and watt meter in the circuit before the ESC so that I can log readings in case of spurious fuse blowing issues or unexpected battery life problems. The water cooling tubes were then run from the water pickup, through the ESC and then back to the transom โ€˜exhaustโ€™ outlet, all water connections are fitted with spring clips to ensure water tight connections. I have used quite a large bore silicone tubing to ensure maximum water flow and made sure that all bends are kink and compression free. The R/C receiver is fixed to the rear cabin wall with some Velcro pads for easy removal, the two aerials were fitted in some plastic tubing at 90 degrees to each other as recommended for 2.4 gig systems and as high above the waterline as possible. The receiver is connected to a separate 4.8 volt NiMh battery via a changeover switch that also has a charging connection and LED power indicator, and I have also fitted a battery voltage indicator, just because they are cheap and convenient although the R/C system that I have has telemetry that reports RX voltage as standard. The battery charger I have chosen can handle the 16 cell series configuration of the drive batteries and so they can be charged in-situ when the main power switch is toggled over to the charge position. The RX and lighting batteries are charged separately. All of the servo and lighting switch cables are routed through the hull to the receiver through pre drilled holes in the bulkheads at high level for neatness and to retain the integrity of each compartment just in case ๐Ÿ˜ฒ!!. The servo and cables and the water cooling tubes are strapped to a supporting bar between the bulkheads for neatness and security. With the TX switched on first, the RX is then powered up and the main power switch toggled to the โ€˜operateโ€™ position, the ESC then gives a reassuring series of bleeps that confirm that all is well. The ESC was set up using a Turnigy
    programming
    card specifically for that model of controller and if required I can tweak the settings once the boat has had a few sailings. The last things to do now are to fit some strong magnets to hold the hatches and roofs down securely and then finally raise the RAF ensigns ๐Ÿ˜
    2 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    3D printing
    I've been using a 3D printer for 18 months now. Very useful for printing things like ship's wheels, bollards, etc. Thingiverse is a useful resource although, these days, every other design seems to be for a fidget spinner - very yawn inspiring. I design much of the stuff I print with OpensCAD, an open source (free) application but it helps to have a bit of computer
    programming
    experience to use it effectively.
    2 years ago by Delboy
    Response
    Aerokit Sea Scout 'Jessica' Renovation
    Evening Dave, many thanks for the response ๐Ÿ˜ŠI wasn't sure how my 'style' would come over! Martin thinks you created a monster ๐Ÿ˜ฒ monster fun for all I hope, maybe a breath of fresh air ?? "Tune in next week!" Many German forums are very stiff also nehm ich nicht teil (so I don't take part!). But my brand of humour always stood me in good stead during contract negotiations over the years. Often not so easy to convince the Admiral to spend his hard won millions on my system design, not to mention the yards who want to maximise their own margin. British humour went a long way to breaking the ice with navies and yards around the world. The Koreans and Chinese were the most difficult to bring round, after that Algeria, Oman and UAE were child's play. The navies of Chile, Ecuador and especially Brazil were; very professional (and good dinner parties)๐Ÿ‘, interesting! ๐Ÿค”, and a barrel of laughs ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜‰ in that order! Canada was good, but bl...y cold! ๐Ÿ˜ก French & italian yards had great lunches ๐Ÿ‘but small budgets (thumb down!)! But seriously though folks; you're right of course, the ancient caps are now useless and I have much better ones now, plus ferrite rings and inductors to choose from. Re voltage; the Taycol specs also give values for 12V running! I can use the Spektrum TX
    programming
    to limit the max volts to 12, also, when the Target is fully renovated I will first test it using my regulated PSU to find our where the limits are. Non-destructive I hope. Theoretically the motor will only take what it wants, never mind what the LiPo can provide if asked. I will also use my new Watt-meter; a tip I got here from you guys. ๐Ÿ‘ Many thanks for that. Re sparks; thought I might try to see the energy spectrum on my 1G/S digital scope, most energy should be in the VLF-HF band and tail off considerably above VHF so an indication may be possible. Might be able to rig up some sort of rev counter using it's frequency meter?? Worth a try ๐Ÿ˜‰ After several years concentrating on gallivanting round the world I have some catching up to do! You guys have sure accelerated that. Muchas gracias y muito obrigado! I've learned a lot the last 3 months and I think I can give a lot back. Looking forward to it ๐Ÿ˜Ž Haven't used the 35Meg set for years, found it this week while looking for something else, as usual. Maybe I'll resurrect it for the flying boat?? It was replaced long ago with the Graupner MC-10. Latest set is the Spektrum DX6. Still learning how to modify or cancel all the fixed-wing and heli pre-
    programming
    I don't need. ๐Ÿค” @ John; thanks for the friendly response ๐Ÿ‘ There was an ESC in her with the Decaperm while Jessie was using her, massive alu box thing with a big ol' 2055 sitting in a heat sink on top! Did several years good service in HMS Hotspur and still works, I think! Glad to revive some hopefully happy memories. idea for a new topic perhaps- "Against the stream - Recycling the hard earned technologies of our youth!" ๐Ÿ˜‰ Happy modelling, or better "Sailing" ๐Ÿ˜Ž Gute nacht aus Mรผnchen ๐Ÿ˜‰ PPS @ Dave (and / or other administrators): WE NEED MORE EMOTICONS OR EMOJIS AS YOU CALL THEM! Check your dumb-phones!
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Speed controls
    mode 2 is generally considered the standard for UK, which is throttle on left stick. Mode 1 will be throttle on right stick. Spektrum dx6 or dx6i can be changed, its in the
    programming
    menu, however then a mechanical change needs to be made inside the transmitter First paragraph https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SPM6630-Manual_Addendum_Mode_Change_EN.pdf
    2 years ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    Speed controls
    "As an ex flier I do believe all engines had the throttle idling with the stick fully back and I have always associated forward with stick up leaving backward for stick down." This might be the clue! This is what I meant by TX mode. I note that Grandpa has a Spektrum DSM set, he may have it in Mode 2 the usual flier mode, as my DSMX 6 was delivered. if so first of all maybe switch to mode 1 to put throttle (full range) and rudder back on the right stick Channels 1 and 2. Then check the TX
    programming
    (offset) on Ch1 and centre it. Then worry about the ESC. Had a similar discussion a few months ago with Andy at Micron Radio Control about the set up for some miniature receivers for my plastic magic! Still getting to grips with
    programming
    the Spektrum. Until then all Sea Trials done with the old MC-10 40MHz kit. ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    autonamy
    For anyone else who finds the idea interesting there is a publication called arduino robotics and has a chapter on building and
    programming
    an autonomous craft.
    2 years ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Using old motors
    Hi Martin I see from your profile you are in a rural area so you may be OK with your rc gear. ESCs can be expensive but generally work well. You will need a brushless type and both Electronize and Mtronic should work. I suggest you look them up on the web and either send an e-mail or ring them up to see what they suggest for your motor. Both allow you to set the nul point to your tx and require the minimum of
    programming
    to set up. Perhaps your friend could visit his loft and let you have one of his Bob Bords. I have not seen any advertised for many years and I disposed of all I had to friends who were still using. Good luck and please keep us posted with your progress. I would be interested to hear how you fare with the old rc gear. Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Motor upgrade
    I hope so Dave. I ordered the motors and esc's from Hobbyking Tuesday PM and the arrived this morning 36 hours from order to receipt, very good. Now as this my first dabblings with brushless motors and esc's I have a few problems, which I hope somebody may be able to help me with, I bought a hobbyking esc
    programming
    card, there are no instructions with it although it seems a quite straightforward operation to set the required values. Part of this is working out what each item is 1) Running mode. Ok choice of three, forward/brake: forward/ brake/reverse: Forward reverse. (easy enough) 2) Fixed area accelerator: 6%:9%:or 12% (??๐Ÿค“) 3)Battery Low Voltage Protection. 6 settings from non protection to 3.4v (probably set at no protection as using NiMh) 4)Start Mode (punch): 9 levels, which one? 5)Reverse Force: 4 levels 25-100% (ok self explanatory) 6)Timing Set: 5/10/15/20/25/30/automatic ( which one ) Bearing in mind what the model is (not a competition racer);what I require of it is forward/reverse; port and starboard. I do not require it to take off like a scalded cat with just the props and rudders in the water. Acceleration from stop to max in about 4-5 seconds. I had about a 50 year gap in model boat making until about five years ago the last one i made was when I was 15, although in the years in between I did get to play with the real things when I was in the RAF. So if you do have any advice remember you are telling a person on the wrong side of 69๐Ÿ˜‹, and thanks in advance
    3 years ago by colindavies


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