Forum
Graupner Elke HF 408
Hope you are not becoming too bored with my boot sale stories but I seem to have hit a rich vein at the moment and can't resist. Here's the Graupner Elke HF 408 picked up on Sunday for ยฃ14. Pretty good nick with lots of bits and does not appear to have been sailed or fitted with RC. Again, any help or advice really welcome. Retro fitting a
propshaft
could be a problem.
6 years ago by AllenA
Blog
Command Boat 90
Scratch built at 12th scale from pictures and profiles of the internet. The boat was originally built in Sweden a class of fast military assault craft originally developed for the Swedish Navy by Dockstavarvet
Speed: 40 knots (74 km/h) Draught: 0.8 m (2 ft 7 in) Length: 15.9 m (52 ft) Overall; 14.9 (48')
Complement: 3 (two officers and one engineer); Up to 21 amphibious troops with full equipment Armament: 3 ร Browning M2HB machine guns; 1 ร Mk 19 grenade launcher; 4 naval mines or 6 depth charges .
The Model
I was attracted to this boat due to its great performance and maneuverability, this was mainly due to the use of twin water jets as the main propulsion, this is a trade off with efficiency.
So my start point was to collect as much information as possible about the boat this involved collecting pictures and profiles of the craft from various sources.
http://www.dockstavarvet.se/products/combat-and-patrol-boats/combat-boat-90-h/specification/
Eventually I found some plans of sort :-
http://laurell.today/boats/combat/plans.html
My Dad was a boat builder in the days of wooden yachts, and had showed me how to make plans and frames from a line drawing. I went about this first by creating a prototype about 24 in long out of light ply. I then created full size plans of the model to be made.
Pictures of small prototype finally painted plain green.
The Main model
Used my computer to print out the frames onto paper, cut them out and used them as templates for the ply ribs.
The construction was simple chine style, with 1.5 mm ply.
I tried to build jet drives but failed to produce a effective unit.
So reverted to
propshaft
s which worked out well with better control and the boat can spin on it own axis by putting one engine in reverse the other in forward and adjusting the twin rudders.
That it for now, hope it was of some interest
6 years ago by CB90
Forum
Iโm refurbishing a 34โ Vosper Fireboat, and as Iโm stripping it, have found the
propshaft
outlet brass โbushโ to be slightly worn. Itโs a 9โ brass tube, with a 3/16โ (4.6mm) x 10โ inner shaft. The outlet bush is worn to 5mm, and the input to 4.8mm. Iโm looking for some advice please. Should I just grease it up, and carry on; ream each bush out to 5 mm, and replace the inner shaft; replace with a completely new 5mm
propshaft
? If replace the entire shaft, how do you remove one without damaging a wooden hull? Thanks in anticipation! Bill
5 years ago by Back in the Groove
Media
Fairmount Alpine
Hello !
Som more Pictures of my Fairmount Alpine , A little bit forward on the deck
propshaft
and rudder is mounted
the towing winch is mounted and working
more
pictures is comming
// Have a nice weekend
all boat builders ๐
5 years ago by jugge
Forum
You can still get greases that are applied in liquid form but they now tend to be in spray form. I personally do not use silicon oil or grease, it is fine until you need to repaint your boat, it forms a film that is almost impossible to remove, even cellulose thinners has no effect and any paint applied fish eyes and separates, there are dedicated removers but we tried one on a contaminated bike frame which had been blasted, with poor results we had to treat it several times and had to reblast it, we discovered silicone grease had been used in the bottom bracket.
Keep silicone away from any surface you may need to paint.
5 years ago by TheBlacksmith
Forum
Been reading some old threads with plenty of reference to lubrication but only one mention of what to lubricate with (mix of engine oil and graphite powder).
I have just fitted a replacement
propshaft
(M4) to my Huntsman 31 and fitted it with an oiler tube.
So question is what to oil/grease it with?
Steve
5 years ago by steve-d
Forum
I used to use Liqui-Grease which was a clear liquid which solidified quickly leaving a grease filled whatever.I think it was silicone grease in a solvent which evaporated. No longer available as far as i can see but silicone grease diluted with meths might work. Great for chains and bearings on a bike so well enough for a little prop shaft. Very low drag too Seems to soften with movement.๐
5 years ago by onetenor
Forum
Hi I am using a mix of Teflon bike grease and a teflon based oil Teflon is non hygroscopic unlike some car type greases and have a low friction level hence low wear. Lithium grease has the same properties and is excellent, all of the suggestions are fine and it comes down to personal choice at the end of the day Teflon grease and oil are available in this country through Wilko's and halfords (own brand. half the price and just as good) Out of interest I make my bushes from PET plastic, acetal is similar, plastic can be lubricated with water as well as grease and is often used in full size
propshaft
s the Queen Mary carrier for example. happy 2019 to everyone.๐
5 years ago by TheBlacksmith
Forum
I also use the ProBoats Marine Greaser!๐
It works well for me!๐
And the grease stays where you put it!๐
I've had no problems with it so far....๐
5 years ago by figtree7nts
Forum
I use White Lithium Grease in my stuffing tubes and on both plastic and metal gears. I build my own stuffing tubes for my 3/16" shafts using bronze bushings from the local hardware store. They insert into about a 3/8" brass tube thereby giving a reservoir for the grease. Does not seem to breakdown at all, has a nice viscosity, does not damage plastics and I have read will tolerate high heat. Local auto parts store sell it for about $6 in a tube that lasts me for years. Just my experience..... Joe
5 years ago by Joe727
Forum
Hi All
I use silicon tap grease as it's waterproof and add a bit more after each outing.
Strip down, check for wear once a year and regrease.
Started using Teflon bearings for the lower bearing which are holding up to the brushless motors.
Canabus
5 years ago by canabus
Forum
Greetings from Australia and Happy New Year.
Hi Steve
I have always lubricated my shafts with a 50/50 mixture of car bearing grease and sump oil Thinned to a consistency to be Forced into the tube via a syringe.
This seems primitive but I have never had a problem. Top up when you think it needs it. Some would shudder at this but works for me.
Regards Sid
5 years ago by sidley70
Forum
Fill it up with Castrol or equivellent grease and once a year repack it....got boats with grease from over 5 yrs ago and they still as smooth as ever and dont leak water at all.......went through them over xmas for 1st time in years NOT a single mark of wear and that includes a couple of fast boats as well....Had a look at a boat that was last on the water 7yrs ago still with the original grease in it and still was as fresh as the day I put it in.......if your boat is using Oil from an oiler then the shaft will be furbarred and staining on the underneath....really no need for oilers as long as you have put enough grease in it...OIL will wash the grease away
5 years ago by Dave J
Forum
I have always used wheel bearing grease. I have a brass tube fitted to the prop shaft which is the same diameter as a grease nipple so slides into the grease gun Yours Brian
5 years ago by scout13
Forum
I have changed over to the ProBoat Marine Grease.It comes with an injector that screws onto the tube.Very happy with the product.Just one idea.
5 years ago by Donnieboy
Forum
Artesania Latina
i had a damaged thread on my new artesania tug boat kit
propshaft
?
i have been sending an email every week since august .They agreed to replace the part but have never posted the part to me ?
i have purchased another shaft but will continue to email artesania for(ocd)
the hell of it ! yes i need to get a life ?
5 years ago by keithtindley
Media
Fairmount Alpine
A Little bit forward ,
propshaft
and rudders ar mounted
and some things on the superstruktion , im going to start with the running lights tonight
Have a nice day everybody
// Jรถrgen
5 years ago by jugge
Forum
How to RC small boats?
There's no great need to dismantle a servo to get motive power - nowadays you can buy model motors that are not much thicker than a typical boat
propshaft
, and speed controllers the size of a thumbnail. Usually for about a pound. These small drones have really helped in this regard. This one, for instance, is 0.6cm diameter by 1.5cm long - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-JJRC-H20-RC-Drone-H20-08-CW-Motor-Spare-Part-For-JJRC-H20-08-RC-He-M4S2/332826605276?hash=item4d7e02f6dc:g:7AIAAOSw989bsxkP:rk:39:pf:0
Your biggest problem will usually be rudder control - there will be little room for a servo and tiller right at the stern of small boats. For an EeZeBilt I recommend a closed loop system which lets you relocate the servo anywhere convenient - see http://eezebilt.tk/radio.html The EeZeBilt Terrier below is 10.75 inches long...
5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
Media
Fairmount Alpine
A Little bit forward , the hull is ready for paint and im going to mount
propshaft
and motors , im going to work with the superstrukture so it will be ready
5 years ago by jugge
Blog
Sanding done
Most of the sanding is now done and the not so easy task of getting the
propshaft
and tube out (M3 so not really man enough).
Bought loads of bits including the grab rails I've fitted.
Bollards, cleats, capstan, anchor, chain, instruments,nav lights etc all boxed up ready to fit after paint.
Also the crew has arrived from China.
But, I have failed to find a VHF 'White Stick' style antenna anywhere....anyone seen one in any of the catalogues?
Steve
5 years ago by steve-d
Response
coastguard
Good morning Doug
the CoG will be determined when the superstructure is completed
then lead ballast will be added the batteries are in the best place possible any lower and they would have been obstructing the
propshaft
s
have a nice day
Bob ๐
6 years ago by Northumbrian
Forum
Brushless motors (again)
Will need to put this on hold for a bit as I have just discovered a guy working in the next industrial unit to mine is into boating and has offered to give me a motor and ESC that he has 'outgrown'.
In the mean time I need to replace the
propshaft
as it is not man enough plus a metal U/J. Bit of hacking required.
6 years ago by steve-d
Forum
Hi Guys, I just would like to enquire what s the easiest way to lubricate (fill)
propshaft
s for a tug scale 1:40 ,meaning 10mm tube and 4mm rod.
thanks for your help
๐ Maurice
6 years ago by Maurice
Forum
S.H.G Black tornado
hi got this off internet not eBay!!!! going to over the winter add meteor 40 engine
propshaft
n' tube were already fitted as was water scoop n' outlet ,rudder , trim tabs,a 2channel Acoms r/c receiver and and 2 servos no trans. but it did all work ( all in a gooy margerine tub possibly the best part of 40 yrs worth of GOO!!!! Hull /deck look to be in good condition! will keep u informed on "resto" over the winter months regards
6 years ago by thatsinkinfeelin18
Forum
Hi Richard, sorry to hear about the arthritis.
I'm also cogitating how to build a trolley or trailer for my bigger 5 foot ships!
Tempus fugit! ๐ฒ All the best, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Hi all I have taken the bull by the horn and removed the 4ba prop-shaft, which was remarkably easy first using a stanley knife on the keel each side of the shaft and then as I was advised by a forum member to use mole grips, which I did, wallah out came the shaft, now as can be seen by the photos the new one, ( it is too long by an inch, Doh I ordered the wrong one) is a smaller diameter than the old one. What is the best way to refit it? Also using the keel as my straight edge, the shaft is at 9 degrees, is this going to be OK, also I am replacing the 54mm 3 blade prop for a 40mm so with the 850 motor I hope this will be sufficient.
6 years ago by RichardSReade
Forum
the boat went quite well, it is too complicated for me to load a video, I cant remember what happened, but I had to repaint ot and it went horribly wrong, I managed to hand paint it in the end and it will do. I then got the Lloydsman ready to sail, then both were put on the top shelf of the garage out of the way and that is where they stayed asI cannot carry them from the car park to the boating pool at Coate Water, however I have acquired two golf trolleys and intend to adapt them for the boats. I have gone off the boats along with other hobbies due to arthritis, and winter is approaching,
6 years ago by RichardSReade
Forum
Soooo! How did it all turn out Richard?
Where are the pics or vids of the Sea Trials???
Cheers, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Blog
Italeri P.T 109
I bought an italeri PT109 kit in 2011. it took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time.
I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the
propshaft
.The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions..
Boaty๐
6 years ago by boaty
Response
Range Safety Launch?
I tried this on a Colin Archer leaking round the
propshaft
entry no internal access it worked its like watered down milk best on levellish surface pour
6 years ago by camyaj
Forum
I want my workshop back!
I already mentioned in another thread ("Any Clues") that three boats have been dumped in my workshop to see if I can find a buyer for any of them.
1) Caldercraft "Joffre" Tug, already built but in grave need of TLC with the
propshaft
tight and the rudder shaft too tight to move. The vessel is filthy dirty.
2) Billings "Le Pourquoi-pas", hull assembled with decks, remainder of kit & fittings look to be complete
3) Billings "Smit Nederland" Nr 528 - unstarted kit but does not have detail fittings
I can post any of these boats and would appreciate a sensible offer for any of them - I do need the space to get on with my own work. Please PM me for any further information
Regards
Barry
6 years ago by aanside
Blog
Dumas 1203 Coast Guard Lifeboat (RNLI Waveney conversion)
So here we go again! I have decided to give other projects a rest for a time in favour of this little gem. Pick up off eBay for less than ยฃ100 NIB posted, couldnt resist!
Its the Dumas (kit no:1203) 44' Coast Guard Lifeboat. I dont know if this kit is still produced by Dumas and having looked at the Die cutting of the parts, certainly seems like an old kit? However, I love my building and the challenges, so I am sure it will turn out nice at the end. Finished length 33".
I shall be converting this to a RNLI Waveney Class Lifeboat and will possibly go with 44-003 named "Khami" which was based in Great Yarmouth and Gorleston, which is local to me here in Suffolk. Sadly very little turns up on this boat via Google, but at some stage may pop out to the Great Yarmouth Lifeboat station and see if I can hunt anymore info on her.
I shall not be using the recommended Dumas running gear for 2 reasons, 1st its a geared set-up (I am going with MFA540 brushed direct drive) and the cost of over ยฃ150!
Photos show the box artwork, plans and the included wood. Last photo shows my electrics less
propshaft
s and props that are on order. Note the Star Wars 3.75" figures that with poetic licence could be painted to represent crew. However, at this point the model is approx 1;16 scale and the figures would be 1:18 scale so maybe too small. There are 1:16 scale lifeboat figures available but pricey?
My one issue at this point is going to battery choice? do I go with a small 6v lead acid or perhaps 2 Tamiya type 7.2v NIMH in series. anyone who has built anything like this may want to advise. LIPO not an option as the Mtroniks ESC do not support LIPO. Space inside the hull may also be an issue?
Another issue is going to be fabricating some
propshaft
struts for the rear next to the props. There is quite a bit of prop shaft exposed outside the hull, so these would be integral to support and strength of the
propshaft
s. is there anything available off the shelf (they are included in the running gear set, but dont seem to be available on there own) of do I need to fabricate from brass tube and sheet/strip brass?
6 years ago by Skydive130
Forum
HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
Yes, I hadn't looked at the dimensions before I sent you the link. I'm not a Dean's fan anyway, from past experience with a damaged
propshaft
. They refused to replace it until they had checked the damaged one to make sure I was not the cause. I felt a bit miffed as the 4m shaft was part of a ยฃ480 spend with them and they were quibbling over a couple of quid.
6 years ago by cormorant
Forum
Twin screw
Hi George,
Had this snag with my Graupner Graf Spee as well. in my case the stbd prop tube was misaligned ๐ฒ Major surgery ๐ก
First off; it's unlikely that the motors are perfectly matched, but if the difference is that noticeable I would suspect the cause lies in
propshaft
resistance and / or dry motor bearings!
I would disconnect the prop shafts, oil the motor bearings and run them in a bit off load for a few a minutes. See if you notice a difference there at low speeds.
Also; remove both shafts; clean and oil. Clean the tube end bearings with a pipe cleaner and some light machine oil.
Squirt some Teflon grease into the tube from the prop end. I use a small plastic syringe for that.
Before reassembly check as far as possible that neither shaft or tube is bent at all๐ค
If all seems straight reassemble and run the motors at medium speed a minute or two then slowly and see if you can still detect a difference.
Reduce the throttle gradually until the motors stop. if one stops significantly before the other that suggests extra friction in that drive train; misalignment somewhere! Thrust washers too tight?
BTW: which motors? One ESC or two?
Hope this helps!
Cheers, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Blog
Part1 research information
Deck
From the construction hand book:-
Decking shall be single layer of mahogany plywood, approximately 9/16 inch thick, installed in general accordance with plan, BuShips No. PT486-S1106-411193, subject to development of satisfactory material.
Note. I have seen photos of some perhaps later ELCO 80s with planked decks.
Planking
62 degrees hull planking angle not 45 degrees as many have used.
stern transom at 12 degree angle approximately.
Prop shafts of real boat.
All three propellers turned in the same direction clockwise looking from rear, not the greatest configuration for a model boat.
propshaft
angles are around 10 degrees.
The centre shaft is at a larger angle to the side ones.
The centre prop shaft angle is 11 degrees and the wing prop shafts are 9 degrees.
Using these angles may restrict your propeller selection.
The centre shaft appears from hull further aft than the side shafts but the propellers are all at the same distance from the stern or transom.
6 years ago by CB90
Forum
Was just pullin' your chain a little ๐ Sorry๐ค
I'll do a quick measure up for the cutter ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
What do people use to glue
propshaft
s in place ?
6 years ago by AndyG009
Forum
Rather than a model of a rope making machine, Doug, this is a machine for making model rope. Always wanted one, in case I ever make that marvellous wooden ship model.
Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Forum
Interesting!
Didn't know there is a market for such models ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
I bought one of those bags of gears and got just enough to make a model rope making machine.
Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Forum
keep it for 7 years and if it doesn't come in handy save it for another 7
6 years ago by Haverlock
Forum
Yep, You just never know when STUFF will come in handy do you?๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Afternoon Doug,
See, this is why I too. Go around buying different supplies!
6 years ago by figtree7nts
Forum
Mornin Ed, 1 to 1. Basically cos that's what I've got in those big nylon cogs. Want to use the nylon ones cos they are wide, so more freedom of movement aligning them, and they should be quieter than metal gears.
Think they came from old printers! Bought a batch of assorted cogs and pulleys at a flea market here years ago. Now they're coming in handy๐
Main purpose is to get the drive down to the
propshaft
which is mounted very low down in the hull as can be seen in the pics above ๐ฒ
Cheers, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Generally 2 part epoxy unless the hull is made of some strange plastic material. if you have gaps to fill try Milliput ( 2 part epoxy putty).
6 years ago by Haverlock
Forum
Hi Doug,
Is the gearing going to be reduced?
Or it going to be 1 to 1?
3 to 1 would be good, right!
6 years ago by figtree7nts
Forum
Two part Epoxy Andy ๐
But I prefer to glue the tube rather than the shaft! ๐ฒ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Response
engine
Hi Hammer, we're all too Gobsmacked to even think about wondering about cylinders and frame! We're now waiting with bated breath to see how you want to bend the 10BA screw heads ๐๐
This dumb lectrickery engineer, who can't seem to cut a simple 3mm thread on a
propshaft
, is fascinated by your mechanical wizardry ๐
Keep it coming, can't wait for the test and trials!
All the best, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Windows, stoopid question.
Evenin' Martin,
Beat ya 2 it! just made the ally jaw covers ๐ I do have smooth jaw vices (or vici !?) but they are only small machine vices. I use 'em mostly with the milling machine.
Ta for the frame info (tilt type), must say I'm relieved, simplifies the sawing and fettling๐ I did the filing and fettling of my windows in the vice as well, with wood blocks between them and vice๐ except the last few irritating thou which I did freehand on the end of the bench.
Ta for saw link as well. Looks like a more versatile fret saw, which I have but fixed length and I suppose the metal blades I have for it are probably too coarse for 1mm ally. Will probably order the set with 144 various blades. Funny, most of 'em seem to be made here in Germany but so far I can only find 'em on English sites!? Know what you mean about V block, will probably make one.
My 'mechanical problem' now is cutting a 3x0.6 thread on the 3mm
propshaft
I made. First attempt bent the shaft ๐ก
Stupid die just doesn't want to bite, an' it's 'nigel nagel neu'. Hilfe!
Nice frames and gutters ๐
Sorry about the car, hope it's not toooo expensive๐ฒ
Marky; Rasp? or raspberry ? Fruit is less painful ๐
Commodore; but is your 'raincoat' tinted and scratch-proof ?๐
Cheers All, Doug ๐
Nearly forgot; Martin can you please elucidate (yes it is legal๐) on the 'dummy screws with a sharpened tube'. Not quite with you yet on that!
Glad you like the glue๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Response
54 year old Crash Tender
Nice One Cyril๐๐
Too'ot 'ere as well, so stayed in and made the
propshaft
and tooob for the fish cutter. Just tap drilled the prop to take a 3mm thread.
Now to figure out the gearbox frames ๐ฒ
Everyone seems to be going Mast Crazy tonight so I guess I'd better make one for the Sea Scout ๐ค The cutter need a lot of complicated wooden bits, so that can wait till I've figured out how it's all supposed to work ๐ฒ Transistors an' diodes an' such are so much easier ๐
Carry on Sarn't Major, ๐ Cheers, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich