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    Blog
    Cooling the motor โ€“ update.
    Iโ€™m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the Turnigy motor as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the motor. I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the motor stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the motor and attach the new piece to the motor using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better โ€˜engineeringโ€™ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the model anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the motor cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The motor is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the motor running and Iโ€™m delighted to report that thereโ€™s a very healthy airflow through the motor cover ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the twin motors on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a โ€˜photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of servo mounts. Take a look at the motors in his picture!
    17 days ago by robbob
    Response
    Brave Borderer
    Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both brushless ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to โ€œturnโ€. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for rudder and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre brushed motor. This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and rudder on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.
    18 days ago by RHBaker
    Forum
    Time to let go !
    For some time now, I've been addicted to purchasing beautiful things, particularly well made things, without much thought for my family, my job, or where the heck I'm going to put them ! On one such escapade I helped out with disposing of a small flotilla of very well made boats, with the intention of keeping one, and having made my decision on which one to keep, the rest must now sail away ! I must admit that I'm a sucker for 'plug N play' the easy way out possibly, but I really don't yet have the time to build a kit myself, which is my aim for the future . Ho Hum. Anyway, enough about me, what about the boats ? I hear. Well, the first is a very well constructed Model Slipway 1:43 scale Assurance Class WW2 armed tug. The model has sailed previously, but is presently only fitted with a motor, rudder servo and various wiring. It will of course need finishing in this respect. The build quality is excellent, and is as it should be, except for a little attention required to the rigging, as visible in the images. Also, the white I.D. decals are slightly flaking, on the port side ( now I am being picky, but that's about the extent of 'things to do'). I guess the initiated will know the spec. but if any further info is required, please do ask. I am open to very sensible offers for this, and the other boats that I will be releasing. I purchased a collection, to save them from a commercial brokerage, and to retain one for my own use, which is now the case. Please do ask any questions, or let me know if you need further images of any aspect of the craft. Of course, I will not post, and it will be advisable for a prospective buyer to view first. The boat is presently moored in South Manchester, with easy access from the motorway network. Best regards.
    30 days ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    Richardson/Southampton Smoke Generator
    Update: I received a reply from Hobby Engine about the smoke generator system. They even included a drawing (attached) that shows where the smoke fluid is placed. it confirms that the fill point is where I learned it was today: โ€œDear Pete: The smoke will be generated automatically when the boat runs. You can use the hobby oil on the boat. The hobby oil can be easily found at the hobby stores in the neighborhood. The same in which people used for model trains. About 5-6 drops is enoughโ€. The hobby shop located a few miles away from my home sells model trains & they probably have smoke fluid available. The website where I found the pictures of the Southampton fill plug mentions that ordinary baby oil can be used in smoke generator systems. According to that website baby oil generates a lot of smoke & is very clean. I guess it wouldnโ€™t hurt to try a little bit in my boat to see how it performs. I hope this information will be helpful to others who find themselves in the same boat (no pun intended) as me when they want to figure out how to work with Hobby Engineโ€™s undocumented smoke generator system. Many thanks again to you, Ed. Thanks to Hobby Engine, too, for your prompt, polite & helpful reply to my inquiry. Best regards, Pete
    1 month ago by Pete
    Forum
    Modellers Exhibition Midhurst
    The 37th Annual Modellers Exhibition will be held at The Grange Centre, Bepton Road, Midhurst, Sussex GU29 9HD on Sunday 10th February 2019. This is a great exhibition in the South where many Model Boat Clubs attend displaying a great array of their boats. For the train enthusiasts there is a large hall with fantastic displays and trade outlets.
    3 months ago by ads90
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi Sakibian, The
    pt boat
    site now sells stuff too, but was originally a site where the author John Drain described how he was building his
    pt boat
    and then the E-boat. There are good plans and examples of how he has constructed these boats. My Fairmile D was made from plywood frames, pine stringers, planked and skinned with balsa and then fibreglassed. it was a very interesting and difficult shape, but very satisfying once completed. it sails beautifully in the most difficult conditions. I have also included a few more pics of my friend's E-boat with the newer camouflage for further inspiration.
    2 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi John, You seem to have missed the point entirely, as you also did with your first post on this thread, in which instead of trying to help Andy and answer his question you attempt to dissuade him from his goal. Unfortunately I missed Andy's question back in March as I was embroiled with family matters. BUT, if he hasn't in the meantime been 'scared off' by the lack of constructive response I will do my best to help, having several times been down the road of multiple screws, as have many other better constructors than me on this site. Nearly all my ships have two, three or even four screws. Only the Sea Scout and ancient Billing Boats fish cutter (a restoration and conversion from static to RC project) have single screws - as per originals. About a year ago I acquired a model of a US Elco PTB fitted with two shafts. I am restoring it, rebuilding as Kennedy's PT109, and will fit the third shaft to complete it to scale as per original. Why? Because that's what scale modelling is about and because it's a challenge - pushing limits. Far be it from me to decry or put down anyone (as you now seem to be trying with me). We all have the enthusiasm (or we wouldn't be here) and do the best we can with the skills nature gave us and what the budget and state of health allows. I have often been astounded and appropriately applauded, and supported where I can, what fellow members have achieved with very limited resources and under very different circumstances from those we in the so called 'Western World' enjoy. That guy in Bangladesh blows my mind with what he manages in the back of beyond! Look for his post about his March '71 boats. WHEN I pitch in here I try to do so with constructive assistance, drawn from my own modelling experience and a lifetime spent working with navies and shipyards, to help a guy achieve his aims and dreams. NOT to immediately deflate him by saying 'Why do that? I did mine this way, it's not what you want but it works for me'. So far the Likes, PMs and mail feedback, request for assisitance I have tell me I'm doing something right. if I do boob (we're all human) I'm prepared to admit it and make amends / corrections. I have no idea what this 'Hooben' is that you yatter on about BUT - if "every little detail (is) reproduced with superb accuracy" why then ruin the overall effect by not continuing this attention to detail on the underwater ship and fitting shafts and screws appropriately? Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't dissuade others from pursuing their dreams. True there are "many roads to travel before one reaches there (!sic) destination" BUT as Confucius said "Every journey begins with the first step." if at the first step someone says 'Your destination is the wrong one' instead of offering a roadmap ..... ! Regards, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa.
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi biker, Depends on whether you want to build true scale model and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'. Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends ๐Ÿ˜‰) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail underwater truly compliments his superb detailing above the waterline. To me the two are inseparable. Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him. About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:- Length, beam, probable max weight? If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market. But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!๐Ÿ˜ Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in action Biker. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    The E-boat was built and belongs to a friend of mine - Graham Smithwick. it is a fibreglass hull and he has had it for a long time. There are plenty of resources on E-boats. This is a very good one. http://www.pt-boat.com/ I have also included some photos of his E-boat before the newer camouflage.
    2 months ago by reilly4
    Blog
    Build
    The heating elements in the hairdryer had two different wire gauges as elements. I removed the lighter gauge thinking they would probably draw less current. I am attempting to use 6 volts as that is what my boat is. 1. First Photo: Took a length of element and stretched it out as shown, started with a longer piece about 8". if you are at 12v probably longer. Use some alligator clip jumpers and attached to one end, ran it to negative terminal of my 6v SLA. Took another jumper and attached to a point on the wire, say about 7". JUST TOUCH the other end to the battery positive to see if it glowed, it did not. So just moved about 3/8" at a time till it glowed - See Photo. CAUTION, make certain you have a nonflammable surface to work on, I used a tile scrap. IT GETS HOT FAST AND WILL BURN, DON'T ASK ME HOW I KNOW. That's why I just touch the terminal till it glows then stop, let it cool for a while. 2. Cut element to length, than take your 16 gauge wire and the crimp tube shown in earlier post. insert both into the tube and crimp it. I used a side cutter and carefully just squeezed enough. Make sure that the element will not pull out. Do the other end. Because I am using only 6 volts, I had flattened out the wire to give me more wraps on the wick. See photo and note. 3. in the lid of the box, I located the fan at one end, the exhaust stack at the other. Drilled a hole matching the fan opening and secured with two screws, drill small pilot holes so as not to crack the plastic. Drill hole to match brass tube OD, tube is about 1" long or so. Super glued brass tube in place. Excuse the sloppy copper sheet work on the inside of the lid, it was an experiment at the time. I added this a a bit of a heat sheild as the wick and element would sit below this. 4. Next photos show the interior of the box, not the best photos of the process as this was already built.... The mint tin set inside the plastic box was an idea to do two things; first isolate the heating element from the plastic,and two, provide a smaller vessel for the fluid. You may want to just use a metal container instead of the plastic box, again I was just using what I had on hand. The wick is laying in the tin with the element propped up at on end to keep it out of the fluid. Photo shown does not show much fluid in place. This needs some work, but worked for this test. Experiment, just be sure that the lower portion of the wick is in the fluid and the element wire wrap is above the fluid level. For the test, I used some mineral oil and a bit of glycerin, smoked very well. it's late so I will run it and photograph tomorrow. Cheers, Joe (Excuse the Imperial rather than metric)
    2 months ago by Joe727
    Response
    Fitting the rubbing strakes.
    Nice one 'Cyril' ๐Ÿ‘ Used much the same technique for the spray rail repairs and replacements on my PTB 109 restoration. Works a treat don' it. Pics show the before an' after. Following the build with great interest, as I also did the Fire Boat Rob. Great stuff. Keep it up. Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    2 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    riva
    i am very tempted by the Riva kit , but wondering about the wood issue with storage and shrinkage , tough call but such a beautiful boat
    3 months ago by sandgrounder
    Forum
    My apparent absence...
    Hi all, in case anyone bothered to wonder where I wuz, you may know I was making a master for a 1/6th scale model kit of a Vincent Black Shadow 'bike. I sent the engine casings to Griffin Moulds in the Midlands and they utterly destroyed the masters, sending me back a back of fragments! No phone call, no e-mail, no note in the late-delivered (DPD) parcel. Now they have the cheek to invoice me! So I have been busy catching up with other stuff kept waiting for a while, sucvh as a 1/43rd scale brass master of a Triumph Model H 1915 'bike and a 1/32nd scale Vanwall Transporter. So I haven't even looked a t a model boat since the weather turned. And likely shan't much before May. Everyone have a nice Christmas. Cheers, Martin
    3 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    Upper & Lower Chines
    Hi Doug. All credit due to Phil Smith and his original design for that actually... Hi rolfman2000 I hope SWMBO is good to her word as I happen to know that the kit is now available to buy from Vintage Model Works ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ‘ I'm told the price is ยฃ185.00 + P&P and there's also an optional stand/carrying box which is CNC cut to the hull profile for an additional ยฃ10.00 That sounds a bit of a bargain too. Contact Mike Cummings at VMW for more information: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/ I'm hoping to have the boat in an advanced state of completion in time for the London Model Engineering Exhibition at 'Ally Pally' in January 2019. It will be on the St.Albans & District Model Engineering Society club stand alongside my RAF Crash Tender. Rob.
    3 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Boat shaft connectors (which stuffs to use and which is good)
    I am not sure that you mean 'latex'. The most usual soft tubes are silicone rubber. Not neoprene, as it is usually too stiff. There are all sorts of universal joints available. Here are some metal ones from Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-RC-Model-Boat-Robot-Universal-Joint-Shaft-Coupling-Motor-Connector-2-5mm/253848013746?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55149%26meid%3D95631f1d170a4b7294c22a48e8978fa2%26pid%3D101006%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D253848013746&_trksid=p2045573.c101006.m3226 These are surely too strong for small boats, however. The Eezebilt range are typically 30-50cm long and I use silicone rubber joints on brushless motors there quite satisfactorily. You just need to be sure that the tube wall thickness is sufficient - typically 3-4mm. Here is a picture of the Eezebilt
    pt boat
    (50 cm long) motor connector, with a picture of it running. You will see that it can go at a reasonable speed. See http://www.eezebilt.tk/PTBoat.html
    4 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    Proboat Sonicwake
    Three weeks ago I got a Proboat Sonicwake deep V fast electric. This appears to be a replacement for their previous model Vorocity. Very interesting self righting method with a water tank on the port side, slots in the deck and a large exit point at the stern. Idea is that if it capsizes, water will enter through the slots and as it draws the boat under, the air trapped in the hull will self right it. If the boat is stationary in the water, it will list to port due to water entering through the stern outlet and when power is applied it will empty out. Bit scary to watch at first as I thought the boat was on its way to Davy Jones. I use waterproof marine clear tape to seal around the hatch ever time I use it. The quality of the hull raises a few concerns. This relates to its ABS construction as the vast majority of similar boats at that price are made of fibreglass which is much more rigid and would be more suitable for the high speeds. Makers claim it does 50 MPH plus on 6S lipos. The electrics however are excellent with the exception of the external quality of the Horizon Hobby STX2 TX which looks a bit "toyish". For myself, this is not relevant as I replace all my wheel TXs with the "stick type" and I found that the Futaba T2HR fulfils all requirements and worked well when I sailed the boat. I have not yet changed the stock prop for an Octura one, the latter works great on my Blackjack 29 with a noticeable increase in performance. The motor is a Dynamite Marine W.C brushless 1900 KV with a 120 amp W.C ESC . ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜‹ Boaty.
    4 months ago by boaty
    Response
    Thornycroft MTB
    Thanks for the nice comment, and yes it is a very nice pond, except when there are a lot of those things with rags tied to sticks racing (shouldn't say that as I've sailed full scale all my life and still have 2 small yachts), and the buoys they leave there are a pain also, (easy to forget they are there) it was full of hire carp (yes hire carp) which were removed as the council wasn't paying the company or some such hassle, but I'm sure they missed some and they will soon multiply and keep the weed down. Bought the plans for the MTB around 1968 and took around 20yrs to finish it. I still have the plans and it only took me about 40yrs to find a photo of the original boat (bit late by then!).
    4 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Thanks Doug, always appreciate your thoughts. The relays are in a NO mode, so only operate when selected. On the bench works fine. Perhaps you do not have the same modulation issue as you are using 1000Kv and I am 2200. My motors respond rapidly, particularly around the fwd/rev position, so am always trying to accurately centre the lever. The motors I choose have integral cooling jackets and are nicely made. if they had been available in a lower rating would have probably used that. Good luck with the
    pt boat
    , looking forward to hearing what you decide with the powertrain. Good luck with the "C" check oug. Best wishes R
    4 months ago by RHBaker
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Good thinking Batman๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ I hate those slide switches as well. They're always the first thing to fail on my garden solar lights. Nice trick with the relays, could also perhaps have used one double pole relay to replace the ESC switches? Otherwise they are energised but in an 'undefined' state ๐Ÿ˜ฒ Strange, I don't have your 'modulation' problems with the brushless (1000kV) in my Sea Scout!? 'Get-home'; agreed ๐Ÿ‘, that's why I'm pondering squishing a centre motor into my
    pt boat
    . it's all stripped out and in the 'C Check' dock ๐Ÿค” so now is the time! All the best Rowen, cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    4 months ago by RNinMunich
    Directory
    (Tug Boat) Loch Ranza
    I bought an unfinished Graupner paddle steamer kit which was in a bit of a state and spent many happy hours making her look loved. The hull and paddle wheels were in an acceptable condition but the deck and superstructure left lots to be desired. The previous owner had purchased the motor which was 50.1 geared and pushes the boat along well all other bits including 'smoke' brass portholes and new superstructure added by myself. She was a delight to finish and looks an absolute dream on the water. (Motor: MFA 919D series) (8/10)
    4 months ago by ChrisG
    Forum
    Brixham trawler IBEX
    Hi Samnewbie I have a Cariad which is wooden hulled at twice scale. I decided to use a false keel but as I bought the hull completed needed to retro-fit one. I agree with you! if you can fit the tube as early on as possible it will make life a bit easier. My keel needs to be about 12kg and the tube is a couple of inches behind the mast. I am still trying to cast the keel; I'm now on my fourth attempt! I have calculated the keel weight and plan on it being about 1kg lighter than need be. This will allow me to finely trim the boat up once complete. Good luck with yours. Edward
    4 months ago by cenbeth
    Blog
    Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Here's the history bit so pay attention... Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice. Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat. The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed. So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times. I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction. Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing. My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project. And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control. The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for ยฃ20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me. The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!). By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep. So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger. The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor. What an improvement that was! I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the radio control system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control. The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio. I decided to sell the boat and bits for ยฃ60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio. We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production. Fast forward to today. Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'. It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand. This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
    2 years ago by robbob
    Forum
    Transfers
    Hmmmm!! Waterproof? Have you ever tested that? I'm not so sure, having used them in the office virtually since their inception. Anyway, when they are mounted on the boat / ship they need sealing in with a coat of clear lacquer or they may sometime 'float' off again. Apart from that have not yet seen any transfer paper made for Laser printers. Transfer paper made for ink jet printers may melt ๐Ÿ˜ฒ in laser printers in the final transfer / fixing unit. I can tell you, it makes an 'orrible sticky mess wot ain't easy to get rid of. Doug
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Aerokits/Jotika Sea Queen
    I made this from a 54" long piece of Melamine shelving. shallow cut a centre ine down the middle 1/16" wide. The board was then marked into 2" squares using a laundry marker. The design concept was from a fuselage jig I had made by SLEC. The holes required for the brackets are M5 with captive ( T nuts) underneath pulled up into the bottom of the board. The red tape down the centre is masking tape ( the high quality stuff) this was to stop the boat glueing itself to the board. As the the keel has a skeg we needed to raise the keel to ensure parallelism I used an Enginerers Marking out block and two doorstops on this.The angles can slide and you then clamp the Bulwarks on I used thirty minute epoxy for this although I would like a longer working time epoxy. Bulwarks 3 and 4 with the motor base was also epoxied together. This was then located on the keey ( Dryfit along with the other bulkheads. A word of advice here use the cabin sides to ensure alignment. Check with a rule and squares before gluing anything.
    5 months ago by Ianh
    Forum
    Kingsmere Model Boat Club
    I do have several model boats with both petrol and nitro engines in them. One I have is a 48" PPT109 with a 26cc petrol engine and the exhaust has the water cooling going out via that way. it runs at a pleasant hum rather than the normal engine sound. it is a lot quieter than someone using a petrol lawn mower or a petrol strimmer. it is even quieter than most brushless model boats. Yet I am not allowed to use it on a pond on Blackheath just because of it's fuel system. I'm told that it's due to sound rather than fuel. The local council have a ranger that comes round and give you an ยฃ80 fine if you are caught using one. I find this totally stupid when they use petrol lawn mowers and strimmer's to keep the whole of Blackheath's lawns cut. I have a Proboat Miss Geico tunnel hull model boat and the motor screams when it's running but I'm allowed to run that on the pond.
    6 months ago by BOATSHED
    Forum
    Got the bits, now what?...
    Jim, it's a 3S Overlander which my local model shop are doing a deal on. I don't know what XT 60 is or EC3/5. I have no Deans connectors. All I have a re the 10 pairs of 4mm bullets with black and red heat shrink. I had found an adaptor from 4mm bullet to Deans male, but it's a slow boat from China by the end of November and I ain't that patient! So bullets all round, I guess. Cheers, Martin
    6 months ago by Westquay
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 10
    sorry forgot the picture
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 10
    Not sure your correct when you say ply doesn't bend in two directions. when building my crash tender the roof panels are a compound curve, I steamed them and let them set in a jig. I agree this will be somewhat more difficult when dealing with a full length skin but with some thought and appropriate jigs and clamps I think it can be done. Ill give it a go on my next build.
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 11
    Looks like an Armadillo ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜ Enjoy the filling and sanding! Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 11
    In the words of Delboy, 'What a Planker, Rodney!' Added more sheets ply in diminishing sizes. now down to 1cm planks for the bow. Found I'm allergic to superglue fumes.
    6 months ago by CB90
    Blog
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 1
    Just starting a scratch build of a 20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    most likely PT 109 at just over 48ins long and a beam just over 12in. Will try to construct with a combination of chine and planking construction (planking towards the bow) still need to finish of frames
    8 months ago by CB90
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 10
    Quick picture of Motor Fans installed. (Black plastic is to protect motors from the glue.)
    6 months ago by CB90
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 9
    Hi thanks for your input The pictures do not show the mini fans now attached to each motor which were robbed from PC cooling fans. The boat is not a performance craft I will hopefully only pull 20 to 30A from each of the low kv motors. Spec. 2808 1400KV 14 Poles Brushless Motor Max Watt: 350W Voltage range: 7-15V Max amps: 35A No load: 1.2A
    6 months ago by CB90
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 10
    This Boat is a bit experimental the main goals where for it to be light in weight, and also a more correct hull shape, also to keep cost to a minimum and as scale as practically possible. To answer the question about not using one single skin, is that ply will not bend in two directions, the sides of the hull have curves to them, the length of the hull is also curved, especially the bow but also curves to a narrower stern/ transom. The best way to skin the boat is by 60 degree planking in two alternating layers but this would make the hull too heavy for me to transport, due to back problems.
    6 months ago by CB90
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 9
    I would check out the water cooled back plates for the out- runners as they will possibly run real hot if at all loaded up without cooling, unless you have fans like aircraft propellers (even then and in open air they still get hot!) I would look at this seriously to avoid cooking your motors. Hobby King usually has various cooling parts, or EBay, Aliexpress, Banggood etc. Bit late now I suppose, but water cooled in-runners (around 2000kv 28mm diam) are a better idea for boats. You can buy in-runners and water jackets to fit them as I did but they need flushing after use with CRC or similar to avoid rust, (I'll be copper tube wrapping the next lot, then there are no worries)
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Good to hear you are making progress with the noise. My ESCs are not programmable as far as I know (There may be a card somewhere). They were cheap Chinese waterproof car/Buggy ESCs with Fwd and Rev which I wanted for independent drives but for the price and how well they work, you can't beat them (about NZ $20 each) They have a very soft start (you can count the revs) programmed in as std, and the only problem I have found is that they sometimes won't go straight into reverse without quickly nudging forward and back, (just need to drive in a scale manner and it's fine.) I'll put a pic of the unit and motor in (also a brushed one I am using in the MTB (x2) which work perfectly only NZ $9.00) They have braking, FWD, FWD+REV and batt type adjustable by jumpers. Throttle set-up is simple with full FWD and partial Rev set by the sticks. Both types are 30A and never even get warm. I purchased some fans for them but have never used them. The brushless units have a fan plug on them. The squealing I have may just require a switching frequency change on the ESC (8kHz/16kHz -more RF noise on 16kHz but more efficient) but I don't think I have that option (do you have that option to try on your set-up ? might be worth a crack). The sound units muffle it a bit anyhow. Boat runs at 10mph (GPS) flat out (looks way off scale) but only needs about 1/4 - 3/4 throttle for normal cruising. Will try to put up an external vid soon. Transmitter is easily modded to twin throttles,- excellent cheap set for boats ( later model has internal aerial)
    6 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 10
    Is there a reason for not using a full length skin? using a card template to ensure correct size then a one piece skin is surely quicker and smoother end product.
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Forum
    Hobby Engine Factory Tug Motors
    Hello: I have a Hobby Engine โ€œpremiumโ€ 2.4GHz โ€œRichardsonโ€ tug. This boat is identical mechanically to the โ€œSouthamptonโ€ tug. Iโ€™ve read many posts on the forum having to do with replacing the factory-installed motor/gearbox unit with two separate motors mounted side by side. Personally Iโ€™m happy with the factory drive setup; itโ€™s quite powerful & it runs smoothly. The reduction gearing is a bit noisy, but my boat is new & will likely quiet down with use. I have two requests for those who have removed the factory drive unit & replaced it with separate motors: 1. If youโ€™ve still got your factory drive unit & have taken it apart out of curiosity, if possible will you please post photos of the internal parts? Iโ€™m interested in seeing whatโ€™s inside the housing & how the gearing is set up. 2. Along the same vein, Iโ€™d like to acquire a spare factory drive to have on hand, just in case. If you have a complete, working drive unit that youโ€™d consider offering for sale, please send a PM to me & let me know what you would want for a price. Thanks very much. Pete
    6 months ago by Pete
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 4
    You're doing a grand job there. I admire your dedication as you are so thorough in getting it right. Keep up the good work and the finished product will be a credit to you. Its an inspiration for me which I will have in mind when I start my next project. Boaty๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜Š
    6 months ago by boaty
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 10
    Tidy work CB ๐Ÿ‘ but an odd way of doing it!? ๐Ÿ˜ฒ You'll end up with a series of kinks instead of smooth curves, especially at the bow. Like I discovered in the PTB I'm renovating. See pics. Yep 'You CAN ๐Ÿค”see the join'! Good luck, Doug
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 10
    Putting on the bottom skin of 0.8mm birch ply, in ever diminishing lengths. I changed my glue from PVA (502) to Gorilla glue.
    6 months ago by CB90
    Forum
    LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
    Hello, Doug: Out of curiosity, did you remove the molded-on plastic ladder rungs from inside of the mast to gain more space for wires? Seeing your finished mast has shown me that itโ€™s best to keep the original nav light locations. Having all 6 lights on the main mast will make it look too cluttered. With all of the lights switched on itโ€™ll look like a light saber is jutting out of the pilot house roof. Do you know if there are standards governing the horizontal spacing of navigation lights? There should be, otherwise Iโ€™d think the lights could tend to overlap & look like one big light, especially in fog. BTW, the cables you added to the mast antennas look great. The smooth curve of the cables & the weather boots at the antenna connections add a lot of realism. Well done!๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿป Speaking of details, do you know if tugboats carry anchors? if so, what type? As far as I know the US Coast Guard requires every powered vessel to have at least one anchor. I see no reason why tugboats would be exempt from this rule. Iโ€™m glad you mentioned using a Tamiya sanding sponge as a means of removing the factory-applied lettering. Thereโ€™s a model railroad technique Iโ€™ve used successfully where an ordinary pencil eraser & window cleaner are used to remove lettering. Iโ€™m sure it would work on my boat but I might not live long enough to get it finished. Shortly after I got the boat I ordered a cloth American flag & scale Plimsoll markings from BECC. Sadly BECC has gone out of business. Another good supplier goes around the bowl & down the hole. Sad. Regarding the winch again, your comments tell me that I may have mislead you into thinking that my boat has a winch. it doesnโ€™t, but I did say Iโ€™m planning to scratchbuild one. in fact, Iโ€™m going to sketch one out right after I post this message. Thanks, Pete
    6 months ago by Pete
    Media
    HMS Cadiz
    My dad built this over a long period of time, starting in the '80s. The hull is fibreglass and the rest is scratch built from plastic card, balsa, ply, wire and anything else he could adapt. Although he installed the motors, props and rudders he never completed the RC installation or tested it. I inherited his boat models a few years ago and wanted to "finish the job", getting the model on the water. After installing the RC gear and batteries over the last few months, this weekend was the first sailing outside the bath at the Valley Gardens boating lake. Happy to report that it sailed really nicely, seems to be reasonably stable although I did restrict it to calmer times when the MTBs and faster boats weren't running ! HMS Cadiz was a battle class destroyer, laid down and launched during WW2 although she didn't receive her commission until 1946 so didn't see combat with the Royal Navy, serving with the home fleet. Due to the changeover in pennant numbering she was originally allocated R09 and later, when the admiralty decided to revert to the D for Destroyer pennant numbering she was assigned D79. To reflect this my model has D79 on the starboard side and R09 on the port side. She was sold to Pakistan in the late '50s, and renamed PNS Khaibar. She was sunk with the loss of nearly all hands in 1971 in the indo-Pakistan war.
    6 months ago by landie
    Forum
    PT 109 upgrade?
    Hello everyone. I have recently completed a lovely Dumas PT109 which I began almost 30 years ago. I finally had time to complete the superstrucure! I really enjoyed the finished boat! The problem is that the old motors (3) make much too much noise and draw too much power. I would appreciate advice on installing the most prototypical, and quiet "engine room" as I have also installed a very nice modelsoundsinc 3 diesel engine sound! Cheers!!
    7 months ago by masterfixer
    Forum
    Southampton Tug Boat
    I assume you have moved on from the above. How did it go? Cheers. NPJ
    6 months ago by NPJ
    Blog
    Italeri P.T 109
    I bought an italeri PT109 kit in 2011. it took 4 months to build as I had other projects on at the time. I notices the high quality of the parts, especially the hull and the actual paint finish was very easy due to it being plastic and got the nearest colour match by using Humbrol spray acrylic of Grass Green with Regency Red acrylic for the waterline and below. Difficult decision was as to build as a triple screw to maintain scale or go for the single screw. I eventually went for the latter with just one rudder. Power was by a 480 brushed flight motor with a 30 amp esc which was a bit over the top as power was by a 2200mAh 2S Lipo but the esc was the only one they had in the shop. Getting the motor installed was very straight forward as it was done before the deck was fitted but I had to make the aft cabin detachable for access to taking the battery in and out and also lubricating the propshaft .The boat performed well at scale speed but got slightly out of shape when full power was applied, appearing more as a fast electric. Overall the boat was ideal for smaller ponds (providing it was not running flat out). The outcome was a well detailed model that appeared like the real thing on the water but I would not recommend sailing it in rough conditions.. Boaty๐Ÿ˜
    6 months ago by boaty
    Response
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 9
    Just when you think you've seen everything - up pops a boat with airscrew spinners ! ๐Ÿ˜ฒ But a good idea to use 'em as fan spinners๐Ÿ‘ Nice work mate, Cheers Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž PS Looking at the first pic before expanding it I thought you were trying to build a 'Hover-chair' ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    20th Scale ELCO 80ft
    pt boat
    part 9
    Installed the three out-runner motors, I hope I never have to replace them. They have rubber mounting washers and nylock nuts and spring washers in M3. They are about half inch apart took a few hours to install with full access as currently boat has not been skinned. I hope to add small fans to the prop hubs to keep them cool Now have received the rudders and water scoops. they will be installed after the bottom skins are on.
    7 months ago by CB90
    Response
    Bit of a problem.............
    Evenin' Neville, For God's Sake (Whoever he may be) put the wire brush back in the drawer and save it for cleaning engine blocks๐Ÿ˜ฒ Use a heat gun and a scraper to get the paint off without destroying the wood. Like I had to do with my Gina 2 fish cutter and PTB hulls. Much less dust than trying to sand / wire-brush the paint off. That way will take you a month of Sundays anyway. The sand the hull flat and cover it with two layers of fibreglass tissue and resin. I used EzeKote, no mixing, no smell, sets in about 20 minutes and brushes wash out in warm water. ๐Ÿ˜Š Apply a final coat of resin. Sand flat and prime. The pics show these three stages for the cutter and the PTB. If the crack is bad reinforce it on the inside with a couple of layers of tissue and resin. Then give the whole inside of the boat two coats of resin. Take out anything that stops you getting down to the underwater hull and keel joints. That should fix your leak once and for all, strengthen the boat to help prevent any further hull damage if you hit something underway and give you a good base for the final colour coats. Bon chance!๐Ÿ‘ Now back to fixing the prop shaft in my cutter.๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž Oh, and by the way - 'DON'T PAY THE FERRYMAN'!
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...
    I also enjoy restorations, Colin...just as much. Every challenge is different. This Chris Craft is a restoration of an Aerokits Sea Urchin that cost me all of 99p. on ebay! But then i thought it would be better made up as a single cockpit smaller runabout, hence the Chris Craft with the steeply tumblehomed stern. My son has an Aerokits PTB and my other son has a Sea Rover. I also have a Sea Urchin and a Veron Veronica yacht, so yes, I do like the restoration of old items. I have a pre War Marblehead in the loft too! I've never been interested in the big ships and service vessels. Only inshore sailing fishing boats and classic speedboats. If I can help you out with any info or techniques, let me know. I have a lot of books on woodies and years as a professional modelmaker to call upon. Cheers, Martin
    7 months ago by Westquay


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