Place
Darlington and District
Various racing events occur after lunch on Wednesday these include -: Semi scale fast electrics, 1m class yachts, Electric Airboats and footy class yachts.
8 years ago by leovilla
Forum
Damen Stan 4207 Plans
I retired 4.1/2 years ago at 70. I've finished all the jobs Management set me, and have decided to try my hand at model making.
I set my mind on making a model of HMC Searcher with the rib.
I purchased a Sports Game
racing boat
, took off the top, lowered the RC pickup into the hull and remodelled the top to a good facsimile of the Delta rib.
Because of the size of the doner hull I have to build the Searcher to a 1:32 scale.
I have no drawings only those off the internet which are very sketchy.
I would ask if the person (maybe RH Baker) with the plan drawings of the hull could let me have a copy.
This is the first model I have ever made so you will all no doubt be hearing from me on a regular basis to tap your knowledge.
Thank you for bearing with me.
RayA
5 years ago by RayA
Blog
Building the Cabin. Part 1
The superstructure of the launch is very simple, and from a practical point it was designed to give the crew a large field of view across the river and fast access in and out to deal with emergency situations. Consequently the construction is quite basic and would be quite straightforward if permanently fixed to the boat but this cabin needs to be removable to give access to the battery location and motor.
Because of this the cabin needs to be a strong and rigid structure of its own and yet fit invisibly to the rest of the model, itโs also only a three sided structure because of the open access at the rear and that alone will be a point of weakness to the structure.
I started by glueing the internal bracing strips to the insides of the deck sides as described in the instruction sheet and some strips that form the base for the sides that sit on the deck, these also needs to be sanded to an angle to sit flush on the deck and also create a vertical face that some further strips are fixed to which meet the inside walls of the deck well.
Although all the parts for the cabin are accurately laser cut I chose to do a dry โtest fitโ using pins and elastic bands to hold the side panels and roof braces together.
This 'dry fit' was neccessary because I had previously decided to fit false obeche panels over the balsa sides and floor of the well to get a better surface to finish in the way I intend, balsa does not have any pleasing grain and does not look good even when stained, so I pinned all these panels in place to account for their addition to the internal dimensions of the well deck.
When I was happy that the geometry of the side panels and front window panels was correct I glued all the roof braces in place and added some reinforcing fillets to make it more rigid, temporary braces were glued across the front and rear of the assembly to keep the whole thing rigid and square during further assembly. The pins and rubber bands were used to pull in the side panels while the aliphatic glue set.
All of this was done with the cabin on the boat so that the correct โdryโ fit converted to a permanent fit.
Part 2 will continue with the addition of the front window panels and roof.
5 years ago by robbob
Response
Motor, mount & prop-shaft.
That's a really good question that I really can't answer right now as I've yet to run the boat !.
The motor enclosure does have quite large ventilation panels on either side which are covered in a mesh and I'm hoping that the motor will be able to 'breathe' as a result.
The brushless in my Fire Boat doesn't even get warm after a long hard run and that's enclosed in the hull but has admittedly got a lot more free air around it in the motor
compartment.
This is not a
racing boat
remember, so I'll not be using the motor to it's full ability, scale speed is all I really want and expect.
I'll report back when it's had some sea trials ๐
Robbob.
5 years ago by robbob
Forum
Book on Sailing Barges
Chris, Thank for the information, I will look into that book.
I started in RC Boating but building and racing several classes of sailboats, including several US1Meter class. Being a much better builder than skipper, I was drawn to schooners that many club members had. Got interested in working sailcraft due to the history and the slower, power of these craft.
The Gaff Rigged Handbook by Jihn Leather is one of my favorite build guides. Yes, I really like Gaff Rigging. This book was great for lots of rigging details and sails... See photo example.
Joe
5 years ago by Joe727
Forum
All hooked up, nowt happens...
"..
Worked through the instructions and it made beeping and squawking noises in what seemed the right places but still no reverse. The increase in revs does now cover the whole of the stick travel above the mid point so I has changed something.
Lost the will to live after 2 hours so went and worked on something else.
Steve..."
Just a thought - may not be applicable, but we often share our reversible ESCs with the car fraternity. And some of them have an odd reverse.
For some cars, you may be happy with straight forward and reverse, but for racing this is not ideal. Dropping into reverse if you move the stick/trigger back past neutral would make the car uncontrollable on a corner. instead, the racing car boys have a system whereby the forward stick increases speed, while 'reverse' performs dynamic braking by shorting the motor terminals (or perhaps even regenerative braking!). To a boaty, this would seem as if the forward stick worked, while reverse did nothing.
These racing car ESC programs DO allow a proper reverse. The way you usually get to it is to bring the stick back to reverse, then forward to neutral, then back to reverse again. it's a two-stage process - call for reverse twice. if you go into reverse, then forward, then back again you won't get reverse - it has to be reverse, neutral, reverse.
Which is fine if you are manoeuvring a car into a parking space, but rather clumsy for a boat....
5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
Directory
(
racing boat
) skytech H101
skytech
racing boat
with water cooled engine.lts capable of 18 knots !
it has a self righting function and came with a spare battery pack,prop,oil and spanner.
hope to have some fun with my grandson. (Motor: 380 water cooled) (8/10)
5 years ago by keithtindley
Forum
Scratch built yacht.
Chris,
Is your intent to build a US1Meter boat for competition racing? I am referring to the boats that are a popular class in the states. if so I can see what see what I have in my files.
Joe
5 years ago by Joe727
Directory
Own design deep V
racing boat
built in the early 70s Fiberglass over balsa. (Motor: O/S 40 max) (5/10)
5 years ago by jbkiwi
Response
Thornycroft MTB
Thanks for the nice comment, and yes it is a very nice pond, except when there are a lot of those things with rags tied to sticks racing (shouldn't say that as I've sailed full scale all my life and still have 2 small yachts), and the buoys they leave there are a pain also, (easy to forget they are there) it was full of hire carp (yes hire carp) which were removed as the council wasn't paying the company or some such hassle, but I'm sure they missed some and they will soon multiply and keep the weed down. Bought the plans for the MTB around 1968 and took around 20yrs to finish it. I still have the plans and it only took me about 40yrs to find a photo of the original boat (bit late by then!).
5 years ago by jbkiwi
Media
Wild thing
Fully had made chris craft deep v
racing boat
evey think u.see is had made apart from engine and.the driver. She is.fully restored to her original self made in 1972. Have added a self bailing system and a new had made shaft with own greaser valve. Thanks hope u all enjoy
6 years ago by Hybrid
Blog
Scimitar-class patrol vessel
Two vessel in it class
(1) HMS Scimitar
(2) HMS Sabre
Launched: December 1992
Displacement: 24,000ย kg
Builder: Portsmouth
Armament: 2 ร General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted)
Complement: 7 (1 officer, 6 ratings)
Gibraltar Squadron's two Scimitar-class boats are the smallest commissioned vessels in the Royal Navy.
This build was to produce a fun semi scale
racing boat
, I have always liked the Archer class boats cabin design. So after finding a suitable hull, an old 'Models by Design' GRP moulding I was away with the rest of the build.
Striped out all old fittings and remnants removed excess glue.
Added strakes to the hull to add lift for planning and control.
Produced a semi scale deck and cabin from light ply.
Thanks for your interest
Roy
6 years ago by CB90
Forum
Darby One Design hydro...
Dave , I made it. I found plans in a 1954 copy of the Motor Boat Annual I borrowed from the National Powerboat Museum at Pitsea, before the stupid bastards on the council threw it away in preference for mud huts for snotty nosed brats to go mad in. Only today I finally got some pictures from the Oulton Broad club with pics of the Darby boasts I hadn't seen, which show that the top cowling was always built a little higher than the plans show, so I shall be making some slight changes to the fixed portions. The photos show the fixed sections to be done with stringers and fabric, a la aeroplane fuselage. You can't buy decent older powerboats as kits or ready mades. Nobody gives a toss about speedboat models in this country, alas. Even though we had a very busy world of inboard race boats at one time. Now, all is boring outboards. The 1500 cc inboard classes gave us a lot of great racing just pre and post-War.
Here are three in one race. "WHO'S DARBY?", Dawn, a Whippet class and Miss Windermere, another One design, like the Oulton Broad One design, all three are 1500 cc class boats. There wqere also boats of under 950cc and even a Singer Cadet class with a Singer Le Mans 1100 cc engine. The Singer Commodore had a 6 cylinder 1500, a gorgeous engine. Both Singers were designed by Percy See at Shoreham and had diagonal reverse clinker construction. I have plans if anyone is interested.
Cheers,
Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Directory
(Other) Avanti
ARTR fast electric by Thunder Tiger. Deep vee powered by Ripper Brushless outrunner. Will reach 30mph+ when flat out. I replaced the radio that came with the boat with stick operated Futaba T2HR as I preferred "stick" to wheel for sailing fast boats. initial problem was slight leak where stern tube passes through the transom but soon fixed it with epoxy. Electrics are in a box at the stern which is appears to be water resistant. Though not for a raw beginner, it is great for a second boat especially if someone is hoping to move on to a 6S . if not , it makes a good all rounder and is ideal for club fast electric racing and it performs well when doing tight turns.
Boaty (Motor: OBL29/19-15M) (ESC: BLC-40M) (9/10)
6 years ago by boaty
Forum
Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...
Just got white metal castings back of the Chris Craft fittings and very nice they are too. They have started to burnish up a treat and will polish well as Paul uses a good quality metal. Nice and hard. Now I have to make the light lenses.
Also put the blue bottom on her at the weekend using my one and only pot of Plastikote enamel paint, not the acrylic muck they've turned over to and it went on through my spray gun as smooth as could be. Even my masking worked. Just waiting for a gold pin stripe tape for the boot topping now. The final bit will be masking the deck to paint the covering boards and king plank with the same blue.
For those not lucky enough to have a wee pot of proper Plastikote in the paint cupboard, I also got a couple of tins of Rustoleum spray, only 5-25 a pot, enamel (of course) in a nice French blue and a rich cream. These colours will look good on my Darby One Design single stepper "WHO'S DARBY?". Very post War. I think the Oulton Broad One Design single stepper will be Burgundy and the Whippet One Design will be varnished mahogany. I know of no other classes of British stepped hydroplanes. These will all be 1/6th scale as they're all around 12-13 ft. long. I'll probably put the same motors in them eventually. The Darby is well advanced and has a Speed 400, but I may go brushless. Any suggestions for a cheap Brushless/ESC combo will be welcome for, say, 3S Li-Pos. it would be good to see these period boats all racing together. I also plan to make reverse clinker Singer cadet and a Percy See Bugatti engined boat for which I have plans. I'm hoping to get a response from the current keepers of Berylla II about measuring that, too, since it also uses a Lea Francis engine, like the Whippet.
6 years ago by Westquay
Forum
Tony O
No Martin, I don't think so.
Once again; it's not so much what you say but HOW you say it.
If your chat with the 'only geezer' was in the same vein as your recent posts I can fully understand that the reaction was 'don't call us - we'll call you'.
Patience is NOT an excuse for wasting time. it is an essential component of successful negotiation. During my career I was often involved in systems design and contract negotiations for COMMS systems for ships yet to be ordered and built. Many of such projects took 5 to 7 years or more to come to fruition. My perseverance and patience paid off.
I was the one who signed the contracts! I often heard from the shipyards and/or navies involved that they were put off by the 'pushy' tactics used by my competitors with less patience.
Tolerance is also not a weakness. Lack of it IS.
Differing opinions are fine, just depends how they are expressed.
Denigrating and insulting others who have differing interests as morons is not the 'fine English art' !
Re: Dumbphone control Apps; YOU don't necessarily need to know (a Luddite wouldn't want to or need to anyway!) but the parents of your grand kids SHOULD in this day and age. Tell 'em to look for Apps like 'Quiet Time'. This enables them to define times that the kids can access the web online via smartphone and when it is blocked.
And no, the kids can't normally get around it. if they can; leave 'em alone to make their millions!
Re: Woodies; Super duper. You have seen that I have put a tremendous amount of effort into renovating the Sea Scout that my Dad built in the early sixties. I enjoyed the process and learned a lot doing it. But I am not fixed on that particular line of model boat / model ship building. if that's your only thing - fine. But why berate those of us who take a wider view and also have an interest and find challenges in making shipboard functions work in miniature in all sorts of ships?
"I really couldn't give a sh*t if I was the only person left in the world making woodies. I do it for me only these days in the absence of any clubs. But I don't have to pretend to like all the other stuff. in another place are people who not only do sail, but specifically model barge racing and good on 'em. I don't ask that they do all the other stuff"
No, of course you don't have to pretend to like 'all the other stuff' but you also don't have to decry those that DO like the other stuff, as you often do the tug aficionados for instance.
OK, I can understand an aversion to warships as such if someone is a died in the wool pacifist, but nevertheless some appreciation of the skills involved in producing such outstanding warship models as seen on this site is not out of order, or...?
(Bye the bye; I've often noticed that 'pacifists' have a particularly aggressive way of expressing themselves!?)
After 30 odd years here in Germany I'm out of touch with the ground roots in UK, but over here things don't look so black. There are thriving model boat clubs all over. W.r.t. 'exciting aspects'; there are clubs in Germany, Holland and France and italy also I think who happily and skilfully re-enact sea battles and convoy battles. There is at least one club in South England that also does that I believe, in Southampton or Portsmouth?
Don't get Channel 4 here (re Battle of Britain re-run you mentioned) but I do get DMAX, which shows a series called 'Die Modellbauer'. in this the crรฉmรฉ de la crรฉmรฉ of German model making is depicted and judged for the annual cup at the international Model Show here.
It covers everything from fire trucks, excavators, boats and ships of all kinds, and aircraft of of all types including turbine jets.
Criteria for the competition being: 1) Shall be externally identical to the original in every detail (down to the rivets!)l, 2) Shall be able to perform each and every function of the original. 3) 150 days to design, complete and demonstrate the model.
The point being that with extremely few solo exceptions the models are almost always built by a father and son partnership.
So, sorry if the situation is drastically different in UK but 'over here' it ain't so black as you paint. Maybe it's a question of the attitude of the parents?
BTW: for a fantastic example of 'modelling on a mammoth scale' pop across to Hamburg and have a look at the 'Miniature Wonderland' in the old Hafen City. All 1/87 scale, the largest model railway layout in the world, but also all types of aircraft and ships in action as well.
Also shown from time to time on various documentary TV channels.
BTW2: don't worry about the brass bashing, I'll work it out for myself.
Have fun with the Taycols.
Cheers, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Tony O
That might have been the case before the mobile phone/mini computer boom, Colin, but now they don't learn anything at school, there are no clubs at school and all they want is 'phone games/youtubes of other nerds playing games better than them (yes really!!).
They simply cannot see any pleasure or fulfillment in making something and let's face it, apart from racing yachts and very fast raceboats, model boat operation will bore the best of us after 5 minutes! Going round and round with a coaster is limited to say the least. I get my pleasure from making them and almost none from playing with them. Try offering that as an argument to a kid who loves Fortnight or Minecraft. You haven't a chance! Model aircraft or car racing will always take them if there's a hint of interest as those are more exciting, if expensive.
Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Forum
Chine Spray Rails
Spray rails tend not stop heeling, on tight high speed turns they will dig in causing a heel, you could fit adjustable stabilisers on the lower transom like on
racing boat
s. Cheers Colin.
6 years ago by Colin H
Forum
Model hovercraft plans
Hi Mzee
Re hovercraft, it may be worth looking at information around models by the late Ray Malmstrom. He was an ace when it came to designing unorthodox models and another source would be the Plans Handboook. I remember this in the mid 1960s and there was plenty to choose from as they had a special section on such. This included anything from hydroplanes, prop driven racing cars and hydrofoils etc.
Another source could be the Eagle Annual from around the same period. Though the Eagle was a comic, the Annual did have articles around the latest technology of the day. Even if you could not obtain the Annual itself I am sure there would be archives on the internet.
Hope you have success with your venture, it sounds exciting.
Boaty๐๐
6 years ago by boaty
Forum
ESC info...
Hi Martin,
Scroll further down in the description and the How and Why of the programming is explained.
Basically; reverseable ESCs are generally factory set for the truckers,car racing and buggy boys!
That means that before you can go from forwards to reverse, or vice versa, the ESC commands the motor to stop, this is to protect the landlubbers gearboxes๐ it's irritating for boat drivers to have to shove the stick twice each time you want to reverse the motor, makes precise control more difficult.
So for boats you need to switch off this function.
Programming also means teaching the ESC the Max forward, Stop and Max reverse throttle stick positions.
Looks like a decent deal to me๐
A programming card isn't essential, you CAN use the TX and listen carefully to the 'Beeps', but the card is much easier.
More 'lecktrickery' ๐๐
Cheers, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Spektrum, new, useless...
Read further down and he clarifies that.
Apart from that you can regard all brushed motors for models as 'In-runners' if you will!
BTW: your last video was interesting, as far as it goes, for those into breaking the model boat speed record or competitive racing.
For me the the boats themselves are totally boring, but that's just me ๐
I suspect that the majority of us here are more interested in scale modelling with a run time of more than 5 minutes.
I believe Martin's planes are relatively small so I'm not sure if a small prop will be be a limiting factor. Choice will likely finally depend on the space available in the fuselage! Like I said 'Each to his own' ๐
Anyway, I'm convinced; leave the in-runners to the car racing boys๐
I only have outrunners anyway, even my Catalina arrived with two outrunners!! Mus check the 'Flying Wing' again๐ฒ
Thanks for the heads up! 'Tempus fugit' and progress too!
Cheers, Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
BRUSHLESS ESC
From my experience I would suggest 2-3x your motor current rating especially cheap ones from china, I have found that a brushless motor can rapidly draw high currents with fouling of the propeller by weed etc.
I would check the current drawn with the propeller you intend to use with a watt meter in the test tank (bath) held stationary increase power and monitor the current drawn this must be well within the limits of your ESC this should show a 10-15% higher power consumption than when moving.
The best bit of advice (which I often don't follow myself) is to put a fuse in line
Please note some ESCs are not waterproof (avoid) or seal them with silicon sealant, go for a quality manufacturer and the highest current rating your can afford.
Cheap 30A ESCs can be ok for low power motors under 10Amps
my
racing boat
pull 60 Amps and is fused at 80Amps and has a 200Amp ESC
6 years ago by CB90
Forum
Fittings & Detail Parts
Hi Pete,
Afraid you've found the chink in my armour๐ฒ
I enjoy solving problems and building and renovating things immensely, but I'm afraid I'm probably somewhat neglectful on the maintenance side, until it's almost too late and I'm faced with a complete rebuild๐ฒ
Anyway, unless anything happens which makes me dismantle the shafts I leave 'em alone until the end of the season and they go into storage. Then I remove and clean and inspect them check bearing wear etc.
Then apply some PTFE/TEFLON grease to the bearings, refit the shafts in the tube and put a few drops of light machine oil into the oiler pipes that I'm in the process of adding to my ships and boats as they go through my 'yard' in various refit projects. Pics show the oiler pipe I added to my 1960s Sea Scout during her recent refit. The silicon tube simplifies the 'topping up' ๐ Last pic shows the completed 'Machinery Flat' ๐
I dimly remember Lithium grease. Doesn't it have a tendency to coagulate and clump over time, especially at low temperatures? Dim memory cos I was an electronics engineer not mechanical๐ Anyway not sure that Lithium is too environmentally acceptable to the 'jobsworths' in local authorities governing the use of municipal ponds these days.
PTFE/TEFLON should not be a problem in this respect and it still works at lo and hi temps. if it's good enough for NASA ..... ?
Stuff I use is called 'Gear-Flon', Check out
http://www.gear-flon.de/Produkte/
I also use this grease in the rudder stocks, and anywhere else there is a moving joint. Keeps things moving and prevents rusting๐
There are other guys on this site who swear by various curious mixtures, but since I (and I suspect also you!) am not interested in maximum revs
ultra fast racing electrics I don't think that's worth the bother. Many don't like grease of any type, claiming that it hardens or adds drag on the shaft.
The jury is still out on that!
A smear of PTFE/TEFLON on the tube bearings, a few drops of light machine oil after every run, including the motor bearings (if your running brushed motors KEEP IT OFF THE CARBON BRUSHES!!!), and I'm happy. So are my boats so far, Cheers Doug ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Forum
Fittings & Detail Parts
Wow! Harbor Models is amazing! Their selection of kits & detail parts is outstanding. Thanks for letting me know about it.
There are only a few hobby shops in my area. They all have at least a few R/C boats in stock but theyโre mostly the racing type. There was an excellent store called Bliss Marine over a hundred miles away in Dedham, MA (near Boston) that stocked kits & parts in addition to parts & accessories for full-size fishing boats & yachts. They stocked the whole line of Billing Boats kits & fittings as well as several other brands. I used to buy from Bliss via mail order or by phone back in the pre-Internet era but their service was super fast. Every time weโd go down to the family cottage near Nantasket Beach in Hull, MA I always stopped at Bliss. Iโd tell my wife Iโd only be in the store for โa few minutesโ but she knew my โfew minutesโ would almost always be at least an hour. Sadly, not only is Bliss Marine long gone but so is the Hull cottage. it was damaged beyond repair during hurricane Bob in 1991. The decision was made not to rebuild it & the lot it stood on was sold to a neighbor. Sigh.
But I digress. Fortunately I found this fantastic website! Although I signed up just a short time ago Iโve read dozens of interesting posts & have received quick answers to my questions from other friendly Model Boats members. This site is a goldmine!
Thanks for your fast, helpful reply!
Pete
6 years ago by PittsfieldPete
Place
Wednesday is race day
Various racing events occur after lunch on Wednesday these include -: Semi scale fast electrics, 1m class yachts, Electric Airboats and footy class yachts.
6 years ago by CB90
Forum
10 Rater
Thank you, kind sir.
Mine is 79" long by 12" wide......which makes me think it's quite an old one,......I have a lovely PDF sent to me,...see above , which also bears no resemblance to my measurements!
I am in touch with some 10 Rater specialists in London, who I hope can help identify this boat's design.
I can always make a rudder, as you say, I'll not be racing the boat.
I am familiar with the AMYA, having raced America's Cup boats in Texas while I was living there,.....here is a photo of "Oracle", favourite.
6 years ago by misterbee
Response
Thames sailing barge Capricorn
Hi,
in last wekend I participated in the open championship Footy in South Moravia, near Znojmo .. in Vyrovice , Vyrovice dam.
The technique betrayed me, footy ruder servo burned during race. Then I participated in open regata with my barge Capricorn. it was my first race. my model also had the first opportunity to sail on "big water".
It turned out that I need to adjust the sails to add and manage a large jib servo.
Technique was against me once more..maybe battery collapsed after first round in second race.
At home I found..battery Ok , but something collapsed ..
Weather nice and hot, but the wind was very weak, so the models of the racing sailboats were the first ..
My photos..> http://tomarack.rajce.idnes.cz/Mistrovstvi_footy_Vyrovice_2018/
I placed on board Capricorn deck cam, but after about 20 minutes the battery was discharged, i did not expected it... and I didn't expect the battery discharge will be so quick...
Deck cam >https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6izcQCeYN0&feature=youtu.be
greetings
Tom
6 years ago by tomarack
Forum
It's a sad day!.
Coronation Park in Crosby, a very very popular venue for all types of model boats back in the 50s and before, hosted tethered hydroplane racing (as Martin has just stated) that was a crowd puller and the old guys in those days had some balls to run them, as I remember there was a bad accident late 50s and it was all over for them. Still going as a model boat club to this day although re-formed several years ago.
Martin, yes I will put some pics up as soon as my grandchildren show me how to๐ค, you see I may be able to bring a 1950s boat into the 21st century but that doesn't mean I can use a computer as I should๐.
Norman.
Small foot note guys, steam also is discouraged if not banned by some model boat clubs now because of the pressurised boiler risk, yes I know health and safety gone mad.
6 years ago by stormin
Forum
Radio in a yacht
Not sure about the 6v in your winch Martin all I can say is one of my many many models (boats planes and cars) is a one meter racing class yacht, now I can't remember for the life of me which winch servo I fitted, it was 15 years ago.
I do not race the yacht now just pootle about the lake and all I have ever used is four Duracell AA 4.8v batteries (other makes are available) in the boat serving the receiver the winch and rudder, the winch works fine, ok in strong winds if tacking X wind the sails may not draw in quickly but I normally wait until I'm turning and the boat is momentarily into wind before winching in (hope that makes sense).
I'm sure the serious racing boys will be able to explain further.
I can remember using a dedicated 4.8v battery serving my retract servo in a large scale aircraft many years ago but can't remember at the mo' how it was wired into the system.
Norman.
6 years ago by stormin
Forum
It's a sad day!.
I think one of the mistakes people make is to assume that they must run their models with others of a similar ilk. That rather means a club of some sort. I say organise a loose grouping and find a river. You can buy a little dinghy/outboard combo for very cheap as a rescue boat if you can't get to the sides all round. Since the river will have diesel and petrol boats on it, you're fine. Canal Locks can be ideal and many (most) are not manned by any pretence at a Jobswuff. Some rivers have no speed limit sections, such as the River Nene and, last I looked, the Yare. So join in. There's nothing sacrosanct about model boat ponds and anyway if the Council Nazis have decided No IC, they are no longer model boat ponds, since that was all there was at one time.
I ran a model boat display on the Well Creek in the Fens a few years back and we had no other than the famous AMPS man, Miller Agnew,with his Rossi powered outboards on his gorgeous tunnel hulls, models of real F1 powerboats. He came with the Cambridge club whose secretary made a point at day's end of thanking me for asking them. They had never run on a river before and all loved it. They had R/C water skiing, racing, you name it and all thoroughly enjoyed it. in the end the Police had to move the traffic on the main road opposite who had stopped to watch. A Rossi powered F1 at full chat on a river only 20 feet wide is something to see. Apparently Mr. Agnew was heard to say that "this is proper model boating".
So, go rivers, young man. My, we'll be running out of middle fingers in no time!
Martin
6 years ago by Westquay
Forum
It's a sad day!.
Thanks you guys for your replies, my old club used to have a wonderful system which was:- on the hour electrics could use the water and on the half hour I.C. Had the water, it worked great๐everybody was happy๐. However several years ago it was decided to ban all I.C.s.
It's a shame because I've never seen the crowds of public spectators a Sunday of "flatie" racing used to draw, small highly tunes boats racing around three boys๐ญ.
Never mind onwards and upwards with brushless and lipos.
6 years ago by stormin
Response
H.M.S. BRAVE BORDERER
Thanks all for the responses.
Donnieboy - have thought out the plumbing, which is simplified by using a cooling pump. See future episodes!
Doug - appreciate the concern regarding the red ESC wires. Have been trying to understand the rationale behind that theory. if all ESCs share a common input voltage, i.e. from one battery, what would the connection of multiple red wires do? Can understand if there were several unique power sources, but that is not the case here.
Perhaps with your electronics background you can explain.
Colmar - Used the angle on the scale drawing. if it were good enough for Vosper, should be good enough for me! Think it close to 7 degrees anyway.
Think short shafts with oilers should help. Have heard of bushings running dry and seizing with these high speed motors.
The initial props are scale versions of the originals. Rather suspect they will not prove to be ideal. Have purchased some 2 blade racing style props for a future test. They have a much coarser pitch and are designed for high speed motors.
Intend to use plastic props initially as they are cheap enough to experiment with. Perhaps others have a comments on the cavitation question?.
Incidentally, this is my first high speed boat too, but there is much of information on both this web site and Model Boat Mayhem for guidance.
Posting questions always generates useful information. Look widely though at all types of fast models, MTBs, RAF launches, E Boats etc. - it has all been done before!
6 years ago by Rowen
Response
WSP 9
A very tidy build, I am building a styrene model 60cm long for fun racing as it is a police boat what about a siren / sound effects too!
6 years ago by CB90
Blog
British Air Sea Rescue Launch
Plastic Model Boat Kit
WW2 British Air Sea Rescue Launch made of vacuum formed styrene approximately Length 24โณ x 7โณ 1/35th semi-scale.
https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/ww2-british-air-sea-rescue-launch-boat-kit/
The Darlington & District Model Boat Club races semi scale craft being either a pleasure craft or military craft, between 22 and 34 inches long using a 7.4v 3300mah battery, but no racing gear apart from trim tabs.
Construction is simple but the kit looked more like PT9 than a Whaleback due to the open fore cabin, which I enclosed with scrap styrene sheet.
Note PT 9 was delivered to America by the British Power Boat Company and served as the blueprint for the development of the PT boats of the USA.
To keep the boat as wide and strong as possible I didn't follow the instructions and cut the internal ribs after attaching the deck for a better fit, also cut a rib away for the battery to fit on far port side. (counter torque) and reinforce the sides of the craft with some 5mm square strips of styrene purchased separately along with some triangular running strakes under the hull.
6 years ago by CB90
Directory
(
racing boat
) Interceptor
Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat.
Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for ยฃ35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan.
I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy
The ESC is a 200A and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC.
The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if hit a object in the water and ride adjustment.
Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop.
The Boat is fast and over-powered used at half throttle, may use a 7.4v lipo instead, the self righting works well.
20th April 2018 while running on 11.1v the boat stopped, no response on retrieval it was found that the manufacturers battery connector had melted and the connection lost see later pictures. the battery was made by FLOUREON and was a 35C with 5500mah capacity the 80A fuse had not blown. (Motor: 2958 watercooled) (ESC: Unknown 200A) (8/10)
6 years ago by CB90
Response
Devil in the detail!
I'm with you there Skydive ๐What Boatshed means is the part of the rudder in front of the stock.
Thinks: are you building an Offshore Power Boat or a scale Lifeboat?
If the former then follow Boatshed's recommendation.
If the latter and the rudder is 'scale' then leave it alone.
Any braking effect, which usually is only significant in a fast
racing boat
model or other fast planing types, can be diminished by reducing the rudder servo throw at the TX.
One should also consider how the original behaved, maybe they did 'dig in' maybe not. There has to be a reason why such rudders were developed, and surely not just to annoy modellers ๐
One more minor point that struck me - Ouch ๐ญ
Your prop struts!
"not that it provides a huge amount of support but adds to the scale appearance."
Even in a model they can be important. To help reduce potential whipping of the propshaft, especially if the model is overpowered. Actually in the originals they were vital, especially in larger vessels.
The purpose of these struts, in larger vessels 'A' frames, is to provide support to the end of the shaft which carries the prop weighing several tons and, more important, to carry the bearing for the outer end of the shaft!
Actually in the originals the shaft tube, or 'Stuffing Box' would not extend significantly beyond the hull. Thus the strut or A frame was vital for the shaft end bearing, fitted immediately in front of the prop for maximum stability. Attached pics of my HMS Belfast (sorry don't 'ave nutt'n smaller with this feature๐ค) show the arrangement.
Have witnessed such construction in various shipyards around the world. Last one in UK was the first T45, quite an experience! ๐ฒ
In the end she's your boat, if it feels good do it! ๐
I would leave the rudder alone if it is 'as fitted'. ๐
I make my struts and A frames from brass sheet and tube.
Cheers Doug ๐
PS Stick with the brass Donnie! ๐
6 years ago by RNinMunich
Blog
Up Grade NDQ speed boat
This is not a build but a modification of a cheap Chinese boat just for fun, I got a bit bored of scratch building projects as they take so long especially as I am not retired yet.
The NDQ 757 Coastal Brother 1:25 Radio Controlled Racing Power Boat cost about ยฃ25 each from Amazon.
These boats have a basic 27mhz radio and two 380 type motors which have forward and reverse and you steer by powering one motor or both for straight ahead.
I bought two of these boats as they are light and about 24 in long, one to convert/upgrade radio, esc and brushed motors. The second was to upgrade radio, esc for brushless motors.
The brushed motor version I put in two higher rated motors (390) with cooling fans built in, but same motor diameter but longer body I had to modify the mounts, kept same couplings and shaft/propellers. I did remove trim tabs (fixed) and replaced the straight running adjuster for a racing rudder.
The brushless version is the same but has brushless motors 2x 2845 2600KV sensor less
Specifications:
KV(RPM/Volt): 2600KV
RPM: 50000
Max Current: 42A
The boats ran well but trimming needs attention, as hull is curved up at the back so trim tabs down, to prevent proposing, in-fact at one stage the boat left the water, but need to distribute weight towards the bow.
Tried on 3S (11.1v) for brushless went well but got slightly hot after 10 mins.
7.4v for brushed also got slightly hot after 10 mins., and went nearly as well as the brushless. Surprised!!
6 years ago by CB90
Blog
K45 8 rater yacht revamp
This is just a revamp of a second hand 8 rater yacht. I brought it as I really like these boats but it is a white boat.
Did I mention White as in you can lose it in snow, White hull, white deck, white sails. Boring as heck but was used solely as a
racing boat
where as I prefer the real yacht look so a revamp is in order.
6 years ago by Bryan-the-pirate
Response
VolantexRC ATOMIC RTR
racing boat
lovely little boat, and fast. can you up the lipo size battery on this.
6 years ago by BOATSHED
Response
FeiLun FT-011 HIGH SPEED Ready to Run electric
racing boat
That look's an awesome little boat really fast ans fun.
6 years ago by BOATSHED
Forum
Too Powerful Brushless ?
Great bit of information , Many thanks pmdevlin. I have only ever used 5mm shaft's and gone out with a variation of small to medium nylon prop's and played on the pond bank with them until I got one suitable. Then I would go for a cast alloy or bronze to that size. But this has been on IC engines, up until about 3 years ago. I have used the same way on brushless since. I have seen others using thinner 4 mm shafts and having problems. I have also always used a prop shaft support under the boat and if I have any type of gap between the coupling and where the shaft goes through the hull I would always add a wedge of wood epoxied in. Once again no backlash on the shaft to make it come loose. The only time I have damaged shafts has been through sheer stupidity racing round a pond with others and misjudging the distance and the bank jumps out and collides with the boat. Whoops broadsides with a nice hard concrete bank and, Yep new shaft needed. But as you say the throttle stick will take you from as slow as you want to flat out. Except when it's IC slow isn't always possible if you do not have a clutch fitted.
6 years ago by BOATSHED
Forum
Too Powerful Brushless ?
sorry to bore everyone with repeated info, as a similar question was posed recently. I agree with the fact that shaft is too thin, it very much looks llike a fibreglass very light
racing boat
set up, now this doesnt mean you cant go fast with your boat, but you need components that are up to lugging a big heavy lump of wood around the pond, not a lightweight feather๐
I have 5mm shafts, less whipping. and I have oilers so they are lubricated with oil rather than grease, just my preference. You can get these shafts from shg marine, they will supply with push in aceteal (probably spelt wrong!) water lubricated bearings, real cheap, so you can change then every season if you want. The shaft has to be supported, where it exits the hull, just put it through another piece of ply, and fill the void with epoxy, and double up the former thingy it goes through in the same way. (pic)
The prop you used is the wrong blade type, thats probaly why it fell apart, plus the soldered on blades are a weak design for higher speed, simon higging is one piece, but at this stage, still testing, you can get plastic "x" blade ("s" blade are less speed)_ props again from shg marine for a few quid each, then you can test a few different sizes. if you jump in for an expensive brass one, and its wrong, its wasted money.
As a starting point, 35mm, 40mm and 45mm, if you dont have any way of testing with data logging etc, you are doing short runs, with the smallest first, and seeing if the motor gets hot etc, and what sort of speed you are doing.
My brushless motors are generally 800 to 900kv, and achieve 25mph in four foot heavy hulls, you want lower kv for torque, not high kv high rev motors. I got into thsi 10 years ago, thwere was NO advice around then as it was new tech in boats so I learnt the hard way๐ญ
When (if) you go to a brass prop, the "cleaver" blade design (pic) works well, I did extensive testing with my Huntsman and fireboat and was lucky enough to have Simon Higgins testing props with me on my boats, again because what I was doing, large scale boats, but going very fast, was unique, and the cleaver design was the best at the time.
Forget the fear of lipo, and brushless, they go as slow as your throttle stick is pushed, ๐
6 years ago by pmdevlin
Forum
Too Powerful Brushless ?
Hi Mark,
i have a 4mm shaft fitted and the boat was out of the water at the time, it happened when i just touched the throttle!
i thinking maybe a 5mm shaft would be good (less whipping)with a racing propeller and a 1100kv motor with a rubber heavy duty coupling, i think that would be a good setup and will be suitable for a 3ft boat. i think the brass propeller is just not built for high revs, or was it a 1 off badly made propeller?
anyway would that setup be good?
thanks
Graham
6 years ago by Traiderman
Forum
Too Powerful Brushless ?
HI Graham. Every picture tells a story!!! The motor is definitely wrong, its designed for racing, low torque, mega revs, not for scale boats. What diameter is the shaft tube??? looks thin??? did the prop shear in the water?? would explain the vibration and damage to the shaft mountings, try a Raboesch shaft, with a ballrace at the motor end, great quality, also they do a huge range of props, google the name there site will come up.
Mark
6 years ago by jarvo
Forum
Too Powerful Brushless ?
I always use as smaller rudder as I can get away with. I had been running model boats for many years then one day when on Blackheath pond someone was watching my boat and remarked on how it turned. badly, and I replied that's how it had always turned. The guy had a boat the same as mine it was a MFA Spearfish, He asked if he could swap rudders on my boat and try his on my boat so that's what I done and it performed much better on the water. I then tried it on my Vosper RAF Crash Tender and it just stuck to the water on any turn tight or wide. So I have done this ever since. On my Huntsman I had turned it over several times before trying this so I done the same on this and once again it was a lot better turning and didn't turn over. I don't like using large rudders if I cannot get one small enough for what I wan't I will get one and then cut it down. We used to race 5 or 6 boats on the water at a time and always needed to turn tight turns to get round the pond. Even watching Power Boat racing on the telly in the past they make tight turns to get round. I have a Probaot Miss Geico tunnel hull and straight from the box brand new the rudder on that has no leading edge and I can turn that flat out on the water with no roll at all. I suppose I am a speed freak and it has worked fine for me. Even if it is the wrong thing to do. The small avatar picture on my posts is a boat I have in Norfolk. This has a 1960 Volvo Penta outdrive probably one of the earliest one's made and that doesn't like to turn on 3/4 throttle without the engine revs dropping and digging in on a turn. I have tried this when out on open water up there. Don't try it now as got a warning from the Norfolk River Constabulary. Don't want to loose my river licence.
6 years ago by BOATSHED
Forum
Marblehead Sailboat upgraded
My friend bought this sailboat build in 1996 along with 15 other boats at Port Credit, Ontario. My friend Ewald Bengel and his brother Fred, bought the sailboat with R/C equipped, but older Futaba AM but usable.
The boat needed structural reinforcements, several new bulkheads, R/R rudder block and repair the rudder.
They are not racing the boat intending to keep it at their summer home on the lake. They had me add a Birch plywood deck and hatchway.
Progress is being made.
6 years ago by Ronald
Media
FeiLun FT-011 HIGH SPEED Ready to Run electric
racing boat
Been flying planes for many years and never thought to try boats until very recently. Just tried out the Feilun FT-011 and thought it was awesome for a first time single hull boat. Fairly quick, good run time and the fact that it will self right if it flips is a big bonus. Could not flip it myself despite some full speed tight turns but think it probably would if jumped some waves. You would expect for a relatively cheap outfit that the seals might not be perfect but after the first run there was virtually no water inside. 5.5 minute running time as well which seems decent for a 4S2200 pack. Really enjoyed it and looking forward to taking it out on the water again soon. Filmed with the Panasonic AG-UX180 4K Pro camcorder.
7 years ago by Dom of Essential RC
Blog
Racing Sloop (no name yet)
I recently got an old Dumas Gee Gee racing sloop kit (22-1/2" long; 24" high; 4-1/2" draft) and will try (try, I said) to emulate this beautiful 1948 32.3 footer Moris Rainbow Class Racing Sloop as a next year's project. My first try with a sailboat. Wish me luck.
7 years ago by Krampus
Media
Throstle
Dragonforce 65s racing at Eaton Boating lake - Norwich Model Yacht Club - my first race! ๐
7 years ago by Baggie
Directory
(Yacht) MicroMagic
Build this Micro Magic in 2006 - the newer Racing version was announced but still not available at that time - and raced her the two following seasons. Updated many things like sails and spars etc. Still enjoy her each summer: Where ever I go I'll bring her with me! I even sailed her on top of the Alps! (Freezing my fingers off!) But the italian Lakes, the Swiss Lakes, the Mediterranean Sea, the Bodensee or just locally the Markermeer (southern part of IJsselmeer) are all familiar waters for this tiny sailboat. (5/10)
7 years ago by Radiosailor