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    Blog
    34 inch Crash Tender refit
    I posted a some pictures of my Crash Tender a few months ago and it was suggested that I should do a blog. So here we go. This is my first blog, and my first boat. I am not going to provide a blow by blow account of the refit, as this would largely turn into a repeat of the excellent blogs by Rob (Robbob) and Mike (mturpin013). These two blogs have been a great inspiration and source of guidance for me over the past couple of months. I built the boat in the early 1970s, but haven't had it on the water for nearly 45 years. Until recently, it had been collecting dust in my garage for all that time. The first task, having given it a good was to remove most of the dust, was to remove the ED Racer diesel engine, fuel tank, exhaust, etc and to fill in the exhaust hole in the transom. The diesel had always been a challenge to start, and to keep running. That, together with the unreliable, home built 27MHz
    radio
    gear is the reason the boat had been in dry dock for 45 years. A new brushless motor, water cooled ESC and 3S LiPo battery were installed in place of the diesel. The propeller also needed replacing as the old one was too large. This identified the first problem. Times have changed since the 1970s and props now have metric threads, whereas my 1970s propshaft had a 4BA thread at both ends. A new 4mm silver steel shaft was fitted threaded M4 at each end. The new shaft diameter necessitated also replacing the plastic bushes in the shaft outer. Plastic bushes were probably not a good idea in any case. New phosphor bronze bushes were turned and fitted and it was then time to get it back on the water. The first trial was very encouraging. The modern
    radio
    worked well, the boat was easy to start, quiet, and performed better than it ever had with the old gear. When I originally built it, I did not fit chine strakes. I cannot remember now why. It may be I didn't realise they should be fitted, or perhaps I felt they would spoil the smooth lines of the hull! Even without them it did manage to plane a little. Being fired up with enthusiasm after this first trial, I decided it was time to get back into the workshop, fit the missing strakes and start the refit proper.
    5 years ago by Graham93
    Response
    Re: Pilot House Doors!
    Very tidy doors Ed, what about making them open and close remotely, with the xtra channels on you new Futaba F-14
    radio
    gear.๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Pete
    4 years ago by Rookysailor
    Blog
    Fitting sub decks and Sea Trials
    The fore sub-deck is glued onto the bulkhead assembly, prior to fixing it into the hull. This is a straightforward operation, but some sanding of the sub deck is needed, particularly around the bow. With short strips of square balsa glued onto the hull sides between the deck beams, to support the edges of the foredeck, the whole unit was again dry fitted. Happy with the dry fit and armed with various clamps and clothes pegs, I glued the assembly into place. (Once again, apologies for the lack of photos as I did this before deciding on doing the blog). Before fitting the aft sub-deck, I cut out an opening to get to the tiller if necessary. The opening will be disguised later in the build. Sea Trials. I decided on lead acid batteries, as the weight would go a long way towards ballasting - she sits very low in the water. Jotika advised 60mm 4 bladed props, which were duly fitted. As I have already said, I use a Taranis
    radio
    and this has the advantage of being able to set up a differential drive between the motors and rudder in the transmitter. As you can see on the video, she turns in her own length. You will also see from the video the 'deck cargo', or cardboard box full of the white metal fittings. This gave me a better idea of how much more ballast I would require for the finished model. I did have a scary moment when the 'deck cargo' shifted and she took on an alarming list to port! I thought I would be a contender for the 'Titanic Award', presented annually by our club for the best sinking. However, with nerves of steel, I navigated her safely back to the slipway. I was most pleased with the way she handled and moved through the water. The motors and props supply more than enough power and she will require very little more ballasting.
    4 years ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Night Watch
    The communications/electronics officer and I have been away today purchasing a CR100/B128 receiver to add to her collection of vintage
    radio
    s. I have no doubt this will be pressed into use in our patrol's training programme for receiving CW (morse). Nerys
    5 years ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Extra channels
    I'm not sure exactly what you mean - could you give an example of what you might want to do with more detail? Do you simply want to install two separate
    radio
    systems in one boat and have two
    radio
    s to control them...?
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Wiring help needed.
    Wrong about the Heli bit for the PDF, not sure about yours but read that yours is a heli
    radio
    (assumed the manual was- didn't read it first,). Doesn't matter, either way you should get a good number of functions with a bit of fiddling. JB
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Wiring help needed.
    This might help Colin, same series. These (and yours) are Heli
    radio
    s and so old not even listed in the Futaba obsolete section. I have 2 even older FP-T5NLH non computer heli
    radio
    s I used for my planes before going 2.4. You can use the heli
    radio
    s for anything but the rotary knobs are for trimming pitch and tail rotor, throttle etc and work together with other switches. You can probably use the normal std functions plus throttle hold, throttle cut (which also works in conjunction with the rotary trims and a few others but it might take a bit of mucking around to get them to do what you want. I used a few functions for things they weren't meant for in the planes, like throttle cut, idle up (toggle sw turns on pre set throttle hold level- for auto rotation). This manual should give you a rough idea and the rest will be suck and see. http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/7uaf-7uap-manual.pdf JB
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Orders from the boss.
    Hi guys and gals, I have been given orders from she who must be obeyed. It is not permitted to accept any more model boats till I have finished the ones I have left to work on. Apparently I have 17 boats in various stages of disrepair. Plus three kits awaiting completion. As well as the 22 vintage showing boats and the six ready to sail. We also have my wife's 3 boats waiting for me to sort out the
    radio
    gear. And finally my son and grandsons 3 boats in the process of being built. Well I suppose it had to happen one day, ah well if I ever mention collecting another boat please give me a swift kick in the shins and remind me of the rules. Cheers Colin.
    5 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Sea Commander.
    Exactamente Dodgy ๐Ÿ‘ Martin is also correct. Point 2 was discussed a few days ago in a similar thread. The earth wire should be soldered or clamped to the prop tube of earth plate though. A loose connection like a croc clip can itself be a source of interference; so called "Metal to metal noise". That's also why I don't like all metal UJs for the prop shaft. Even 1:1 ships can suffer from problems with earthing plates! In the mid nineties I designed a COMMS system for a series of glass fibre minesweepers. Against my better judgement the yard decide to use vertical whip antennae for the HF
    radio
    s. A vertical monopole whip antenna needs a good earth to act as it's counterpoise. "No problem " said the yard "We'll let a copper earth plate into the keel." After launching and a few weeks of fitting out and trials they complained that the HF comm efficiency and range was deteriorating. We tested all our
    radio
    s, ATU and cabling and all was OK. Then we sent a diver down to inspect the earth plate. He came up and said "It looks like Chantilly lace!" Red faces at the yard and they coughed up for the Crossed Dipole antenna (with it's own built in counterpoise and ATU) which I wanted to fit in the first place ๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Sea Commander.
    1 - MacGregor
    radio
    s had a non-industry-standard IF. So you may have problems sourcing a suitable pair of crystals. 2 - Having a single Earth point was a standard interference suppression requirement. This used to be provided by connecting the negative side of the circuit to a plate in contact with the water, or, for convenience, the prop tube...
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Fast attack craft
    Hi Nerys, I agree with you it is definitely not my thing either. But as you say I might appeal to the younger ones. I will have to think of something more seaworthy and large enough to be able to have room for some decent
    radio
    equipment in it. Something that will appeal to a bigger audience. Mjartin555.
    5 years ago by Martin555
    Forum
    Workshop
    Thank you for all those kind words Doug. Alice's call sign is G(W)7SEH which she has had since she was 18, but she isn't on the air at the moment as her 'shack' had to go when the room was converted to a Dialysis chamber (of horrors). To prove that I could learn something new at over eighty, four years ago, I did the Foundation course and have the call sign M(W)6TLN. Once the shed is completed, Alice will set the shack up again complete with work benches for her main interest of restoring vintage
    radio
    s. Future exploit, Alice wants to buy a milk float when one comes up at a sensible price and not too far from home and convert it into a campervan. Cheers, Nerys
    5 years ago by Nerys
    Forum
    Workshop
    "I have to share it with Alice. She is a
    radio
    'ham' who collects and likes restoring vintage
    radio
    s" Ye Gods and little fishes! What an incredible pair of ladies๐Ÿ˜ฎ Both my main interests, ship modelling and
    radio
    , in one convenient package๐Ÿ‘ Not to mention general handiwork! Where have you been all my life?? What's your call sign Alice? I never went for a Ham license (had enough expensive hobbies already) but did work the night shift for a mate of mine in Hounslow during 24 hour competitions, so he could get some kip. Very interesting. He was quite impressed once when I made him some contacts in North Norway. We deduced that the transmissions might have been bouncing off the Aurora Borealis, cos we had to track with it to keep the link, using a rotatable log periodic antenna, as it wandered about! We had fun erecting that huge HF log-p in his back garden, but that's another saga๐Ÿ™„ Respect to you ladies, looking forward to your next exploits, in the Coracle maybe?โ›ต๐Ÿ˜‰ Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Workshop
    Thanks everyone for the very kind comments you are all making about our workshop, however, I must confess that I have to share it with Alice. She is a
    radio
    'ham' who collects and likes restoring vintage
    radio
    s , so also needs bench space. Cheers, Nerys
    5 years ago by Nerys
    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the โ€˜Vintage Model Worksโ€™ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a โ€˜Thames River Police Launchโ€™ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50โ€™s and 60โ€™s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately ยฃ2.15 in todayโ€™s money but an equivalent cost of ยฃ48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and
    radio
    control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36โ€ in length where the original was 24โ€ which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more โ€˜hiding roomโ€™ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as โ€˜strakesโ€™ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone โ€˜off planโ€™ to any extent. The pictures show the model in itโ€™s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    5 years ago by robbob
    Directory
    HMS Hood
    Recently purchased from Northampton she is seven feet and two inches long currently has no
    radio
    installed at moment planning to use maybe end of month depending on the cost of
    radio
    gear or type.
    5 years ago by Carlos
    Forum
    EeZeBilts From Keil Kraft
    "Perhaps DG is the best one to answer this -" Dunno why - my boats will sink like anyone else's if they fill up with water. Partly it's horses for courses - don't sail a boat with a low freeboard on the choppy side of the lake where the waves break over the bow. Fast boats which deflect water away might get away with it - slower displacement hulls where the water creeps up the side won't. Google 'Coandฤƒ effect' for a more technical description of the reason water sticks to surfaces. Tugs usually have heavy ballast and are more likely to have waves breaking over them than to ride up and over them. And sealing a deck effectively is going to depend very much on the way it's designed to fit on the hull... Adams of Adamcraft fame in the 1950s used to stretch clear plastic 'clingfilm' over the decks of his open boats (it was invented in '49!) to keep the water out, and you might find that trick useful if you have to have a removable deck. The clingfilm would go underneath the deck, of course... Sinking is less of a problem with EeZeBilts (though the Beaver with its heavy ballast would go down). They are made of many watertight compartments. If your boat doesn't have such flotation support, try using expanded foam in all the spare cavities. I do this in my boats, partly as a safety measure, partly to deaden the motor sound and stop the decks from 'drumming' and partly because I mount batteries and
    radio
    equipment in it. Here is a shot of a PT Boat with removable centre deck, which is happy in heavy waves - you can see the foam blocks...
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Response
    Re: Up to now
    You are doing a great job,keep up the good work. Unfortunately when they design these models they tend to forget about being able to get at all of the
    radio
    equipment as well as motors and rudder. Martin555.
    5 years ago by Martin555
    Forum
    46'' RAF Crash Tender
    Ik, That's quite an easy set up compared to what I had to deal with on the 36" HSL as I had a lot to fit in a small space. The center of the boat is inaccessible due to the wheelhouse (which is removable) having a drop floor, (apart from 1 1/2"under it where the ESCs and one speaker sit) and the bow area originally having no large hatches. I had to make one to get the 2 sound units (plus speakers) and
    radio
    gear in. Rear deck behind the engine room is the same with only one lazarette and the dinghy on top. I didn't want to make another non standard hatch, so I managed with the space that I had. Had to do a similar thing to my 36" Thornycroft MTB. Thought about transfer boxes (see pics) but was too much work to get all the angles right, (although the one with a motor might be tempting on a future build) and motor space wasn't wide enough. Also the weight in the stern was another factor, (sits too deep in the water at the stern already but luckily runs nicely anyway.) It's fine if you don't have floors or interior detail, as you have a lot more room to play with, but I prefer to keep everything up off the bottom in case water gets in. Also the floors give you somewhere to place everything on a flat surface . John B
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Fishtailing
    I think this must have been an article from a while ago aimed at AM or FM
    radio
    s as the
    radio
    s on 2.4 are way less susceptible to interference. None of my models have suffered with any form of electrical interference since I changed to 2.4 from FM and previous to that 27Mhz which was shocking!. As previously mentioned I have 18 aircraft -mostly out-runners up to 1100w , a few in-runners-(ducted fans) and at the moment 5 boats (1 with twin in-runners, 1 with twin non suppressed 380s, 1 with single suppressed 380, 1 with twin non suppressed 540s, and 1 with a worn out old Graupner monoperm. I have run 2 brushed boats together on 1 TX and a brushed and brushless on the same TX both with single wire RXs in each boat paired to the TX) with the boats 1ft apart at times with not a hint of a problem (RECs in the bow). I have always made sure the aerials are not in line with pushrods or near anything that might create any sort of magnetic field, and RXs as Doug said, on the opposite side to anything of that nature. Also as mentioned, any twin aerial RXs should have each leg at as near to 90deg as possible or at least 1 forward and 1 aft (planes and boats) Not sure If I'm doing something right or it's the
    radio
    s I'm using (5 different types- 2 are HK cheapo 2.4s- general lack of serious outside interference or if I'm just plain lucky, but I have enough of a variety of installations to show that in my opinion, if you are having a problem on a 2.4 set-up there must be something quite unusual happening. I'll bet it would be something easy to fix, (like first take your gear out and test it to make sure it's not that, then look at aerial/ REC placement, twisted/coiled wiring etc. I noticed that the REC aerial on your boat Ron, goes over the top of the steel rudder pushrod -could be something as simple as that. You just have to go through things step by step until you find what's causing the problem (obvious statement I know) Doug mentioned ferrite rings which are a good idea (I found some clip on ones on HK which you can put on leads easily) I also use UBECs on all my planes which have a ferrite ring fitted which are a good bit of insurance. John B
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    futaba
    radio
    and receivers
    I also have been using Orange FASST Futaba RECs since they first came out and have never had an issue with range( far as you can see). Also the Corona R6FA, R8FA and the FRSky TFR6 7ch have been faultless as well. I've been using a Futaba 6EX with all of these since 2010 with no problems. Also been using a few FHSS
    radio
    s for ground use (boats) with no problems either. There don't seem to be many 3CH FASST receivers but a 4 or 6CH FASST should work ok. A 6CH will work on 3,4,5,6,7,8CH RECs (you only run out of switches if you use a bigger one) Corona makes a R4FA but HK doesn't sell them now. plenty of Corona 6s and 8s around for about $ 25 US. I notice that the Futaba 3PK is discontinued so samc may want to look at a newer
    radio
    .
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Motor reversing
    Hi All potential submariners! Please consider this before you happily launch your latest creation! You're down at the lake on a nice warm sunny day for a bit of 'messing about in boats'. So far so good. BUT ... before you launch your sub into the deep consider that the water temperature will be considerably less than the air temperature. So what? you might say. This what! To help keep the wet stuff out of the sub and away from your sensitive electronics you need a little over-pressure within the pressure hull (WTC), to keep it WT! Outside in the warm air this will occur naturally. BUT .. as soon as you dunk your sub in the cool wet the air in the hull will also start to cool and reduce the pressure within the hull. This is often enough to create an 'under-pressure' within the hull which can cause ingress of water by literally sucking it in through the drive shaft and control rod glands. Glug glug glug glug๐Ÿ˜ญ๐Ÿ˜ญ Time to wish you'd worn your swimming trunks and brought some goggles with you! Solution? 1 Acclimatise your boat on the surface before you sail away and start diving; i.e. let the water cool the hull and contained air before final sealing of the pressure hull and sailing off. 2 Fit a cycle tyre valve and take a cycle pump with you so you can pressurise the hull slightly before sailing. Don't overdo it, one or two pumps should do, or you might blow the sealing glands from the inside ๐Ÿ˜ฎ๐Ÿ˜ญ 3 A rubber (or similar material) membrane fixed into the pressure hull is a useful indicator of over or under pressure within the hull (WTC). 4 Fit a Pressure switch and a Fail-safe device which will automatically surface the boat on loss of
    radio
    signal (some RXs can be programmed to do this; i.e. all servos and ESCs go to programmed settings) or on exceeding a preset depth; e.g. 1 metre. Happy sailing / diving / surfacing๐Ÿคž. Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    Hi John, Don't know quite what you mean by SMS 'Plan' but I can assure you (as a former programmer of the first automatic cellular
    radio
    test systems) that there is no way that SMS (= Short Message Service) could have the capacity for video streaming, or even audio for that matter. As the name suggests! "Trouble is, here (don't know how it works there) is that all internet is on some sort of usage plan" True, if you insist on using 'Dumbphones'. I use almost exclusively a PC/DSL connection and the only restriction I have is how much I can leave / archive in my Mail account which is stored on the provider server, 1GB max currently. Could buy some more, but what for? What I do on the Web is irrelevant. So all I need to do is occasionally clean out my Mailbox; deleted, sent, received etc. What I want to preserve I transfer to a hard drive, either as eml or pdf.. BTW: I wouldn't touch What's App with a 20 foot barge pole, or Facebook, Twitter and all the others for that matter. Given their misuse of personal data as well as all the hacker attacks they have suffered it simply confirms the impression I got while involved in the early days of the net and especially the various cellular systems. I also did some programming on UK Type Approval test systems and could recognise the expansion possibilities of the cellular
    radio
    systems; all the large data blocks labelled 'Reserved for future functions' and filled with zeroes! I had to first analyse the data exchange between mobile and cell site to then devise a suitable test protocol. With the increase in usable bandwidth this 'availability' has since expanded considerably, not always for the benefit of the user - ever more for the provider! This site is the only 'social site' I'm on, I trust Stephen (Fireboat) far more than Mr Sugarmountain and Co. Regarding some sort of 'Group chat', great idea by the way; perhaps a VPN? Maybe Ed (Figtree) could help us with setting up something like that? Cheers, Doug ๐Ÿ˜Ž
    5 years ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Re: HMS EXETER.
    Sounds a bit like me Martin except I'm fortunate to be able to drive mine around. Great shame you can't get your fine creations out to a lake to see them in action. I seem to spend months or years making a model (planes and boats) and once I've perfected the performance, taken photos and videos, they just hang or sit there for sometimes years, full of expensive
    radio
    gear doing nothing, (think it's the general lack of clubs) Mainly I think some of us get more pleasure from the actual building of the models and having them operate successfully, rather than having one and using it to death and ending up being bored with it. In my case I'm just a hoarder of my own creations, (unfortunately) although now I have no more room, so it acts a bit like a brake until I can get off my butt and actually make an effort to sell some. John B
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    Hi Doug, I was meaning more here in NZ, as I know you have some nice shops in the UK and Germany etc ( I have bought quite a bit from Cornwall Model Boats who give really good service) and a few years ago was buying IC engines and parts from Just Engines in Shaftsbury who were a great bunch with spot on service and advice. A list of good shops would be great Doug as if you are not in the country you quite often don't get to know good local shops. When I was working on Norfolk Island (SP) in the 70s there was a shop called the 'Mini Golf shop' owned by a lady named Agnes who was incredibly knowledgeable on all aspects of modeling ( it's where I bought all my models, motors and
    radio
    s at the time as they were tax and duty free, - bought an OS FS 60 motor when they first came out for around $160 Aust for eg, in NZ a year later they were about 6-$700 NZ). The shop was tiny (about the size of a double garage and was packed to the roof with model stuff from all around the world,- a real modelers paradise and it was known worldwide . Sadly it has been gone for many years as the tax system changed due to Australian interference, (they have now taken over completely) and is now just Lego and other crap (although at one time they sold more Lego than any shop in the world from the new -1980s shop) . I doubt whether there would be many shops in the world as exciting to enter as that old one these days.
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Batteries in a DX5e
    Probably one of these under the power switch, (you'll have to check first) may only be accessible from inside unless the front face of the TX unscrews. If you are not sure get someone who knows
    radio
    s to do it. If it's dud you are going to have to change it for safety reasons anyhow. Check my previous reply as I added something else.
    5 years ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    Re: 34'' Crash Tender
    I donโ€™t remember McGregor offering kits in those days. They may have, but the cost would probably been out of my reach. There were companies who advertised in RCM&E who offered kits to build
    radio
    equipment, often based on articles in the mag. My 27MHz set was scratch built. I worked for a company at the time that had an engineering workshop that I could take advantage of at lunchtime. So the case was folded from aluminium sheet and then covered with red vinyl. The sticks were turned from Perspex. The circuit board was etched in the lab. Sadly I got a better job elsewhere and lost access to the workshop ๐Ÿ˜ 
    5 years ago by Graham93
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    TUBING Hi Guys, It's me again. A good source of small lengths of metal tubes is from old
    radio
    s. I picked up some old
    radio
    s from a boot sale for next to nothing and the telescopic aerial is ideal for making rudder tubes, prop shaft tubes, anchor hawser tubes push rod supports and so on. Martin.
    5 years ago by Martin555
    Forum
    R/C Boat for Sale
    For Sale:Rc Model Boat Sea Rover Red & White, wooden deck, 76cm x 25cm, Never used. Condition is New. New Saturn 2.4 Ghz
    radio
    transmitter & receiver included. Viper Marine 25 speed controller & motor included. Will need own battery supply. Buyer to collect.ยฃ250
    5 years ago by Jimbob901
    Forum
    Help me please
    So you already have an appropriate motor installed. All you then need is a
    radio
    (Tx and Rx), a servo, a speed controller and a
    radio
    -switch if you want to add switchable lights. Oh, and a battery. You will need a
    radio
    because 35mhz is an aircraft band. Boats can use 27mhz, 40mhz (both old technologies now) or 2.4ghz. I would strongly recommend 2.4ghz - it's cheap and has lots of advantages. You can get a set for less than ยฃ50 - I have seen them for less than ยฃ20! But get one with more than 2 channels if you want to do extra light switching. The hull is a displacement one - I suggest a standard 7.2v NiMh battery pack (though I don't know your motor voltage?). Do you have a charger?
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Ace Nautical Commander
    It might be a shame to alter the innards of such a
    radio
    - vintage
    radio
    s like this make a lot of money if sold in original condition. See https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2980389-ACE-Nautical-Commander-7-ch-NIB-AND-FOR-SALE-AGAIN Perhaps $200? To convert it to 2.4Ghz you would have to obtain a 2.4Ghz transmitter module. If you can do that, you can probably obtain a full 2.4Ghz combo and use that
    radio
    if interference is the primary issue. To convert you need to obtain a
    radio
    module, and then find the position in your transmitter where the signal is passed to the RF section. You then connect Vcc, GND and Signal to the new 2.4Ghz module. Some
    radio
    s have a separate RF board, making this part easy, but if not you will need some way to find the bit to connect....
    5 years ago by DodgyGeezer
    Blog
    Yorkshireman refit- rear deck
    No turning back now I thought this was going to be straight forward. I've decided to put the main bridge superstructure to one side of the work bench and forget it, for now. In the past I found its easy to try to do to much, you get bogged down,disheartened and loose interest. So the next job now the decks are off was to check the rudders operation. It did seem a bit vague,the boat came with a full set of working
    radio
    gear. 4x6volt batteries in banks of 2 that took a charge well. A steering servo and 2x decaperm geared 6v motors turning in opposite directions with handed 4 bladed screws. The rudder cranks were white metal that didn't grip the rudder shafts tight enough, hence the vagueness, 1 motor was loose on the mountings, the other had a cracked gear box cover. Is it me, this scenario seems so reminiscent of so many good looking cars and bikes I've bought over the last 40 years, only to find within a couple of weeks you've got "sucker" written across your forehead, and a lame dog on your hands. These to me are the type of challenge I like. There the only ones I know come to think of it. New kits are for pussies? Jokingly. Anyway if someone in the past has taken all that time and effort to turn a silk purse into a pigs ear, I look at it as a challenge to turn it back into its former glory. None of the hatch tops were square especially the covers for the rudder cranks, and as can be seen in the accompanying photos the deck holes weren't raised to stop water ingress. I re cut the holes to help fit new cranks and fitted 10mm up stands, made new sheet hatch covers then refitted the original hinges and handles. Also while cleaning the loose paint layers off the outer stern bulwark, I uncovered the original name of the boat. It was originally a "Yorkshireman" hence my goal to turn a Irishman into a Yorkshireman. Apparently after a bit of reading up they were sister ships in real time and were built not 20miles from me at Selby, Yorkshire around 1976.
    5 years ago by Rogal118
    Blog
    Fiddly bits and lights
    Hi yโ€™all. Sheโ€™s almost there. I swear for a fairly easy boat to build I have almost as much time in the thing as my Neptun.๐Ÿ˜ฎ I keep adding a little here and there, but I need to finish her. Once I maiden her, Iโ€™m โ€œdoneโ€ I rarely go back to a project Iโ€™ve finished to modify or add details, with the exception of RC cars. The more I get into model boating however, the more I think that attitude might change. Anyway, I bought some detail pieces from Harbor models in California, and decided to add lights to the Acapulco too. The flying bridge now has a
    radio
    s and a fire extinguisher. I took braided wire, stripped off the insulation and used that inside a piece of heat shrink for the hose, itโ€™s not perfect but looks ok. I shortened the radar mast that goes behind the seat because...well, I just didnโ€™t like how it looked. I added 2 aft nav lights to it also, Iโ€™m waiting on lights and boards from Harbor, once those are installed Iโ€™ll tidy up the internals, pinstripe the water line and she will be ready for her maiden run. I need to get her done as I have another project in the wings,and Iโ€™m gonna have to do some engineering to accomplish what I want I have in mind....๐Ÿ˜ Cash
    5 years ago by Cashrc
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    Hello all. I hope you can help me before I lose all of my hair. I recently purchased a Turnigy 9x set which, according to all of the reviews I have seen, is good value for money. I am sure that they are all right but you need to be a genius to understand the instructions. Everything is in short hand. I am fairly new to the latest
    radio
    s but I can read. This is not good. The internet has been invaluable and I have found a good instruction book for the Flysky 9x which appears to be the same. I have now got through the basics but I am having a problem achieving what I bought it for in the first place. My latest build, a Pilot boat, has been wired such that I need to use three channels to operate rc switches. I would like to use channels 5, 6 and 7. I have found that I can set 5 to gear which gives me one switch, another can go to throttle something to give me two switches, but the other choices go to trimmers only. After reading bloggs it seems that I can get a third switch working on, say, channel 7, but have to alter mix settings. I am completely lost now and wondered if anybody could instruct me as to how to get this third switch to operate on channel seven. Thank you.๐Ÿ˜Š
    5 years ago by MouldBuilder
    Wiki
    2.4ghz TX/
    radio
    2.4Ghz TX/
    radio
    combo With the introduction of the 2.4 Ghz
    radio
    s the 27Mhz and the 40Mhz systems will soon become obsolete, they are however the only ones suitable for underwater submarine use as the 2.4Ghz will not transmit under water. With the 2.4Ghz system you can forget about wrong crystals; or is somebody on your frequency; dual conversion; incompatibility of some crystals on some
    radio
    s; interference etc etc. need I go on. The first 2.4Ghz systems were expensive but now a transmitter and
    radio
    can be bought for just under ยฃ30 there seems to be no point in hanging on to your old 27 and 40 Mhz
    radio
    s.... START to update for a hassle free life. Additional receivers are only ยฃ10. It seems that the Planet and
    radio
    Link are no longer readily available. FlySky are a suitable in-expensive alternative but are not compatible with Planet or
    radio
    Link. A simple,one off binding process for your first time use and your set is tuned to just your transmitter. You can use just one transmitter and have all your boats fitted with receivers which will only receive signals from your one transmitter. Should you for any reason want to add or change your transmitter for the same type you can simple re- bind your receivers again to match your new transmitter SIMPLE !!!! If you do have a rather expensive 40Mhz Transmitter it is possible to purchase an adaption kit to 2.4Ghz and still retain your transmitter, 2.4Ghz 4 to 6 channel receivers can be purchased for as little as ยฃ10 to match the modified transmitter.
    5 years ago by MAXTON
    Forum
    Model Slipway Tug AZIZ
    Further to the previously mentioned craft, the Model Slipway Tug/supply vessel 'Aziz' is also for sale. 1:50 scale, and measuring just over 110 cms. Again, constructed to the highest of standards, and with excellent detail, the craft has been used only sparingly. As with the other boats, the
    radio
    /electrical gear needs attention, as it is only presently fitted with the two motors and the rudder servo. This is a very impressive looking vessel, and I will give serious consideration to any offers that may be forthcoming. Many thanks, Dave
    5 years ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    What type of antenna is this?
    I doubt if you will be able to research the FishFone I'm talking about, it was a name given by
    radio
    Amateurs to the Trawler Band some years ago.
    5 years ago by Nerys
    Forum
    What type of antenna is this?
    The wire aerial running between the masts is what
    radio
    hams call an inverted L, it is tuned against the hull of the boat and the seawater and unlike a half wave dipole it only needs to be a quarter wave long, or less with a loading coil and an aerial tuning unit, often built into the transmitter. Common on many fishing boats in the days of the Trawler band, which is the frequency band a bit above medium wave. Trawler Band was also nicknamed FishFone.If you mean the loop aerial on the wheelhouse, that is a
    radio
    Direction Finder Aerial which became very popular just after WW11. This information comes to you courtesy of my
    radio
    Ham partner.
    5 years ago by Nerys
    Forum
    What type of antenna is this?
    Hi Ron, Most likely 50's onward! That antenna is an RDF "
    radio
    Direction Finder"! Chances are very high. There would be one on the type of vessel. Your model represents So, Yes I would put it on your model! Regards, Ed
    5 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    RC circuit
    Since your going to replace your Tx and Rx consider a computer
    radio
    like the taranis. Each of your rudder servos can be on its own dedicated channel as can the ESC for each motor. Using the built in mixing functions you can "tune" the setup so as to get the effects your looking for plus you can do things like both rudders moving in opposite directions to give a brake effect. Setting up the mixing looks difficult but once your into it, it follows a logic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g&t=21s
    5 years ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Robbe Westerriff lotse pilot vessel
    This boat is understood to be a Robbe 1:25 kit, constructed to a very high standard, and is the pilot vessel Westerriff. The craft is finished to the most exacting of standards and, whilst fitted with a motor, bow thruster and lots of wiring, will need additions and finishing to perform, with, battery,
    radio
    gear etc required. ( I also note there is no servo for the rudder ). It has sailed previously, and is provided with many attractive features, including operating water cannon, rotating radar, operating mast lights ( numerous ). The length is 106 cms, or a tad under 42 inches in old money.( The craft is supplied without the stand that is shown in the images. I am presently looking for a suitable stand, so if there is one out there to be had, please do let me ( or the new purchaser ) know. If further info or images is/are required, please do let me know. Again, I am looking for a reasonable and realistic offer for the boat, and all offers will be considered. The craft is presently moored alongside the previously mentioned Assurance class armed tug in South Manchester. ( also, the least I can do is to ensure that a suitable donation is made to the site following the sale of any of the craft that I am offering for sale ).
    5 years ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    Receiver aerial
    The modern digital
    radio
    control Tx/Rx aerial is attached directly to the device. I assume, as normally is, that the Tx/Rx connection impedance is 50 ohms. A quarter-wave vertical aerial is also 50 ohms. Can one extend the aerial using 50 ohm co-axial cable so as to leave Tx/Tx in hull and place aerial on top of a mast?
    5 years ago by SpiderBruce
    Forum
    Receiver aerial
    Hi there, I presume that you are referring to 2.4ghz
    radio
    system. I have various models using 2.4ghz and have not had to extend the reciever aerial on any of them. Most only have about 50mm above the deck and I've been in full control up to 300 mtrs (28 acre lake) with the older 27mhz. Or 40mhz I have to have a fully extended aerial to get a good reception at distance. Hope that this will help you. Cheers Colin.
    5 years ago by Colin H
    Media
    USS Chesty B Puller
    USS Chesty B Puller, I was a marine, 63 inches long, prebuilt by Aquacraft, engines installed, but no
    radio
    , batteries or speed control. Looks great in water. preforms like a real one, especially in still water, but we don't have much of that in Kansas.
    5 years ago by blackheart
    Response
    HMS Bustler
    hi ya Marky, judging by your building skills - it wont take you much to move right over to
    radio
    controlling a model - if you have the skill to master building, you have the skills to master
    radio
    control. Go for it :-) heres an idea, look on some of the websites who sell
    radio
    gear and buy yourself a reasonably priced 2.4 handset with the receiver then you can purchase a couple of servos to plug into the receiver along with a battery to power it all and then have a play around and find exactly what it does, and then programme if needs be. Golden rule, 27MHz 40 MHz &2.4 can be used on the land and on water only. 2.4 along with 35 MHz and be used for aircraft only. So 2.4 is the only one interchangeable between land and air. Basic rules for buying a transmitter in the UK anyway. amendment ,27MHz can also be used for aircraft๐Ÿ‘ john
    5 years ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    John, I followed the video exactly, using ch.3 instead of the ch.2 recommended with the
    radio
    gear, but then I could not get response from the esc. Mine is a 25amp; would that make any difference? I then switched it back to ch.2 (having already reversed the motor leads) and ran the setup again. The throttle now runs in the right direction, but if I switch the trim to normal, the motor runs at full speed forward. Switching it back to reverse, it functions normally. What am I doing wrong??
    5 years ago by J Barry
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Here is the transmitter I intend to use, with a 2.4ghz module fitted. Not decided on the RX yet as need to get in the attic to look in my
    radio
    spares box. But it will be a 6 channel set, as that is what I have. Cheers Colin.
    5 years ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Its really quite simple modern
    radio
    systems are computerised so you can do all the mixing you want from the transmitter. No need to buy mixers for the receiver end. Setting things up the first time you do it is confusing I agree but once you have a grip on things it becomes more simple. The good thing about using a modern system is that you can change things on the fly and even have different mixes selectable on the same model and change while your sailing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g there is a video so you can see what I am talking about.
    5 years ago by Haverlock
    Directory
    (Yacht) Sea-Lite
    Acquired this Sea-Lite sailing yacht as a project. Everything works after a fashion but based on mixed reviews the intention is to replace the
    radio
    gear, winch and rudder servos and increase the keel weight (5/10)
    5 years ago by Mids-Phil
    Directory
    (Pleasure Craft) Fairey Swordsman
    Bought this some years ago with a holed hull and no cabin. Made only those repairs needed to make it useable, fitted new 2.4Ghz
    radio
    gear and batteries, and have been using it ever since. I keep threatening to restore it properly but it's fun as it is and a rebuild is probably more realistic anyway. (5/10)
    5 years ago by Mids-Phil


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