All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support
Join Us On Social Media!
🏝️ About This Website
☝️ Terms of Service
Model Boats Website
Model Boats Website
Boat Clubs & Lakes
Plans & Docs
This boat was recently purchased on-line from the grandson of the 1:1 boat in the photos. He built the boat from old photos and his memory. This is truly a "pond yacht" as the is no access to below deck for any
equipment. The plan is to keep the boat as shown but to up up grade the deck hardware and aft deck details. It is powered by a small electric motor running on one "C" cell battery. Since the first posting testing has shown the single "C" cell didn't have enough power to turn the prop while in the water. Experiments with other batteries has shown a combination of two 3.7v Li-po batteries in parallel should give up to one hour run time.
2 months ago by Puddle-pirate
36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production.
The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960.
This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and
by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring.
The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision.
The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive!
The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too.
The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo.
During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent.
The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
8 months ago by robbob
The modern digital
Tx/Rx aerial is attached directly to the device. I assume, as normally is, that the Tx/Rx connection impedance is 50 ohms. A quarter-wave vertical aerial is also 50 ohms. Can one extend the aerial using 50 ohm co-axial cable so as to leave Tx/Tx in hull and place aerial on top of a mast?
5 months ago by SpiderBruce
Hi there, I presume that you are referring to 2.4ghz radio system. I have various models using 2.4ghz and have not had to extend the reciever aerial on any of them. Most only have about 50mm above the deck and I've been in full control up to 300 mtrs (28 acre lake) with the older 27mhz. Or 40mhz I have to have a fully extended aerial to get a good reception at distance.
Hope that this will help you.
5 months ago by Colin H
USS Chesty B Puller
USS Chesty B Puller, I was a marine, 63 inches long, prebuilt by Aquacraft, engines installed, but no radio, batteries or speed control. Looks great in water. preforms like a real one, especially in still water, but we don't have much of that in Kansas.
5 months ago by blackheart
hi ya Marky, judging by your building skills - it wont take you much to move right over to
ling a model - if you have the skill to master building, you have the skills to master
. Go for it :-) heres an idea, look on some of the websites who sell radio gear and buy yourself a reasonably priced 2.4 handset with the receiver then you can purchase a couple of servos to plug into the receiver along with a battery to power it all and then have a play around and find exactly what it does, and then programme if needs be. Golden rule, 27MHz 40 MHz &2.4 can be used on the land and on water only. 2.4 along with 35 MHz and be used for aircraft only. So 2.4 is the only one interchangeable between land and air. Basic rules for buying a transmitter in the UK anyway.
amendment ,27MHz can also be used for aircraft👍
5 months ago by JOHN
1950s sea commander refurb.
Good to see an early Sea Commander being restored. My first experience of seeing a Sea Commander was in early 1961 when I was eight years old. I was in Coronation Park in Crosby just outside Liverpool and dad got talking to the owner who said he had been a radar technician in WW2 and he built the
himself. The motor of course being a Taycol.
Many years later I restored two Sea Commanders and still have one of them which I sail quite often.
Well done Aerokits.
5 months ago by boaty
Sea Trials and mods.
Wow Robbob, I have just seen the video of your Crash Tender. She is amazing. Looks great on the water. I just love the way these hulls sit on the water. Virtually no roll at all, it's as if they are glued to the waters surface. The Aerokits Crash Tender was my very first boat back int 1959, it was my 9th birthday present and my father and I started to a build. But he wasn't happy about building the original kit straight outright. As our first ever build, he brought home broken down tea chests and orange boxes and he got me to draw round all the parts and he went on to cut each piece out with a nice new fretsaw. So as the first one went together and it seemed to go well then the Aerokits one followed on. He then bought me a ED Hunter 3.46cc Diesel engine for my Christmas present that year. I say he I should say my parents both bought them for me. Sadly I never got to have
in it. I was weird as we went on to build another five in all. One was given to my younger brother, his had a Taycol Standard in it, and I had the job of taking the accumulator to the local model shop to have it charged up as we never had a charger for it. I think they used to charge something like a shilling each time it was done. The other five that we built he actually gave away to friends and one even went to the milkman. I still have a 34 and a 46 inch still new in boxes. The 34" is an original that Was Released in 1994 by Aerokits on the 50th Anniversary and the 46" is a VMW kit. I have a 46" to refurbish and have scaled one down and built a 28" in Balsa wood. As well as a 46" PT 109 with a 26cc in her that also sits on the water the same way. Sorry to waffle on it just brings back old memories. I'll leave it there. I just love your Build such detail.
6 months ago by BOATSHED
3 Mtroniks M400 marine Motors
(running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts)
3 Mtroniks Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using Mtroniks W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and battery’s
1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH battery pack
2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH battery pack
All Batteries are 7.2 V
I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short circuits on the connections or switches can anyone help
7 months ago by teejay
Broads River Cruiser Yachts
Some pics of a couple of Norfolk Broads sailing yacht classes I have constructed to precise detail externally, which were built on the Broads as holiday hire fleet craft in 1947 and to the present day.
One is 1:8 large scale and the other 1:18 scale. The larger scale yacht required a suitable detachable keel bulb for
8 months ago by NorfolkBroads
Vintage Model Works 46'' RAF Crash Tender
Here's the history bit so pay attention...
Many years ago as a boy in the fifth year of my north London secondary school, circa 1971, our woodwork class was given the option to make something of our own choice.
Having mastered the majority of joints, wood turning, finishing techniques and the making of table lamps, stools and bookshelves etc. this seemed a good idea, so myself and a fellow classmate and model making chum asked if we could construct a model boat.
The teacher, on hearing that it was to be from a kit and not from scratch was a little surprised but agreed.
So my friend and I jointly invested about 20 quid in an Aerokits 34.5 inch RAF Crash Tender from Blunts' model shop in Mill Hill (long since gone like many others) and we set about construction during lesson time and sometimes at break times.
I recall we used "Cascamite" to glue it all together on the advice of the woodwork teacher because neither 'Scotch' glue nor PVA was suited to marine construction.
Good progress was made over the course of our last year at school but it was never fully completed, only requiring painting, running gear and detailing.
My friend decided that he needed to withdraw from the project as he was enrolling in a college away from home to study for a career in the merchant navy and I agreed to buy out his share and continue with the project.
And so it was that I carried on with the painting and installing the running gear which consisted of a 1.5 cc marine diesel engine, water pickup, prop shaft and rudder and a MacGregor radio system with a stick for steering and a single button for speed control.
The engine and radio came from Michael's Models in Finchley (also long gone) for £20 as my elder brother, who had started a Saturday job there, was able to get a staff discount for me.
The diesel engine was noisy and smelly and a pig to start with a leather thong around the flywheel and I decided to abandon this means of propulsion (I foolishly ran it for slightly too long 'dry' and melted the soldering around the brass water jacket!).
By now I had graduated from my part time job in Woolies to an engineering apprentice with Post Office Telephones and my new income of 20 quid per week could support my modelling and electronics hobbies after my contribution to the household for my keep.
So off to the model shop to buy a Taycol Supermarine electric motor, two 12v volt lead acid batteries and a suitable charger.
The diesel came out and was sold on Exchange & Mart and the mount and coupling re-made to accommodate the new Taycol motor.
What an improvement that was!
I can't remember now what speed controller or servo I used but whatever it was did the job, and it went like the clappers on Friary Park boating lake (also long since gone) even though the
system was a bit crude with the non-proportional steering and 'blip' throttle control.
The boating took a back seat when I acquired my driving licence and my first car (a rusty old Cortina Mk 1) and I also got involved in sound recording for radio.
I decided to sell the boat and bits for £60 through Exchange & Mart and bought an Akai 4000DS tape recorder and a 'Chilton' audio mixer, built a home studio and along with a good mate of mine started making radio commercials for the new commercial radio stations including London's Capital Radio.
We even won a 'Campaign' advertising award for one of our efforts! And so after several years as a 'phone engineer I moved into professional recording for A/V and broadcast and then into TV production.
Fast forward to today.
Semi-retired with grand kids and with more free time on my hands I still had an interest in model making so in Jan 2016 went to the Model Engineer exhibition at nearby 'Ally Pally'.
It was there that I saw an RAF crash tender just like the one I built all those years ago and got into conversation with the chap on the stand.
This re-ignited my model making interests and I researched the hobby and that model in particular.
3 years ago by robbob
The local water company were responsible for my cellar flooding and "drowning" my "Sea Queen", they said to claim off my home insurance. Along with loss of all my dark room equipment and my
gear and sundry other kit it came to over a thousand pound. it took over three months to sort out.
8 months ago by Wingcoax
1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared by both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first
boat. the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup ( I have reposted blog because I think I did not do it properly first time round)
9 months ago by teejay
Kingsmere Model Boat Club
Sorry no photos ,but I remember back in the late 60's early 70's spending some enjoyable Sunday afternoons sitting by the pond with my wife and children watching the straight running events against the Victoria club I believe,so
that and seeing a guy with
air sea rescue launch got me started building model boats something which I had last done as a nipper.Does the King's mere club still exist,last time I went by the pond a few years back it had shrunk in size and was very overgrown around the edges.
10 months ago by Ray
(Working Vessel) Elke HF 408
This is a restoration project - my first
boat 'Elke', is a small fishing boat with plastic hull, a Graupner kit, purchased in Germany when I was serving in the Army there in 1974. I am restoring it for my grandson. it used to be a good runner with a 6v battery, small electric motor, two servos, one wired so it could move boat in reverse as well as forward. A good little sailor, light in weight and a good pond model. Had to be careful of wave height. Anyway, it has been in the garage for 40 years now so much to do. The inside is a bit of a mess and everything has a layer of dust. I will fit a speed controller and NiMH battery. But nothing too difficult so hope to have it finished for Christmas. (Motor: 6v) (5/10)
10 months ago by Neil-S
Gypsy Sloop Jr.
When I was in high school back in 1957 I built a kit of the Comet Gypsy Sloop Jr. in 2016 I found the drawings on-line for the Gypsy Jr. The boat was entered in woodworking class at our county fair where it received a blue ribbon. it has a working wheel that turns the rudder. Now I have under construction a 32 inch version that I would like to
. I'm not too sure how to set up or what type of servo to install.
10 months ago by Popeyepapa
Try investigating some of these -
Have fun, can't wait to see it in action😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
10 months ago by RNinMunich
Hello from Australia
Has anyone got a Plan of a
led working model Rowboat Please.
10 months ago by sidley70
Well today the radio specialist guys checked out the reciever for me, apparently it would need a new capacitor, a 90 volt and a 2 volt supply. Not really possible in such a small boat. So I've decided to use it for my vintage displays. The boat itself will be renovated and fitted with an electric motor, possibly a 600 as I have a couple in the spares box. Still looking for a way to remove the kitchen nozzle system. The motors that operate it are working so hopefully should be controllable by modern rc gear. Might need Dougs help designing a system I can build. BTW the Hull and cabins and deck is constructed from 1/4 inc ply. Bit heavy but good and solid except for some of the frames are very soft and crumbly. Will start a resurrection blog soon. Cheers Colin.
10 months ago by Colin H
Hello From Australia
Has anyone got a plan for a
led rowing Boat.
11 months ago by sidley70
I built this 1/125th scale Amati kit of the Titanic over two years from 2016. it has enhanced etched brass details from Minibrass. Conversion for
involved making the hull waterproof with multiple layers of fibreglass cloth bonded with epoxy resin as well as the installation of a drive train and RC gear. With only a tiny rudder, steering is dependent on a mixer unit controlling the differential speed of the propellors.
1 year ago by JeremyBB
Spektrum, new, useless...
Doug, I may well take you up on that, mate. I would really like to get it going.
Could you PM me your postal address?
The Jeti I first saw was the 14 channel and that was £845 for the TX and £70 something for the RX. but I was only interested in the Tx. I wanted to frame it and put it on my wall! Czechs are SO clever and the women are stunning. The new 18 channel is about £1400, but they aren't anywhere near the dearest, even if they are the best.
Haverlock, you can sing the Taranis praises all you like but anything that needs a PC to fiddle with it to get anywhere is the last thing I would pay good money for. I am a great deal more impressed by aesthetics in engineering, than complication. if I wanted to know what the batteries were doing I'd bring the boat in for a look. it would add some interest to what is essentially a rather tedious pursuit (which is why I have a preference, still theoretical, for sail). Believe me, I would never "get" the Taranis or anything like it, in a month of Sundays. I'm just not interested in all that techy stuff.
Norman, I'd appreciate any input if you fancy digging around in yours. I wouldn't know what to look at. I didn't when it was soft valves and 90Volt Ever-Ready batteries and I don't now. I might have had
Models and Electronics Magazine from No 1, but none of it made the slightest sense and my Dad, (who paid for the subscription) never had the time to read it. I couldn't tell you the difference twixt a Super-regen and a superhet, a tone or a reed set. My old chum still has a working ED reed 8 channel set, but when flying, he has to constantly retune something with a plastic screwdriver, WHILST FLYING!!!
And how did anyone ever do full aerobatics with single channel bang-bang escapement rudder onlies?
1 year ago by Westquay
Seaplane Tender 360
Having identified the boat the restoration starts...
I was given the boat about 10 years ago but had done nothing with it. Finally I decided it was it's turn to be made operational.
With the help of many on here the boat was identified as a kit built seaplane tender belonging to the RAF. Once it was established as a 41.5 ft version I looked at their history and decided that 360 had the best story having been loaned to the SOE during the war and had taken part in some agent landings and recoveries.
The Boat was built in the late 50s/early 60s as a pond boat powered by 3 Every ready cardboard wrapped 4.5 batteries in series powering a Bassett lowke marine motor. Steered by a sprung set rudder.
The decision to try and keep the finish as original as possible was easy but throws up some problems.
in the boat and have a nice large cabin to house it in but the rudder has no significant stem to attach a servo to so a new rudder is needed with an above waterline shaft.
The Motor... Do I use that one or replace it with something modern.
The cabin roof was warped ( see thread titled warped wood)
1 year ago by Bryan-the-pirate
Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...
Evenin' Martin, Oh dear oh dear oh dear! 😲
There is some good advice above, but maybe not optimally expressed for use by a Luddite! Sorry guys but this might be a relatively long post to separate the wheat from the chaff, explode a few myths and resolve this little conundrum of Martin's!
One thing at a time!
NUMBER1. THE RADIO-
Dear Martin: Whatever possessed a self confessed Luddite and Scrooge like you to spring a large chunk of your hard earned pension on one of the most expensive and complex RC sets on the market in the first place????
I bought a Spektrum DX6 on impulse a few years ago while strolling around Conrad here in Munich. I've regretted it ever since. in retrospect it was way too expensive >600€, and complex. it is intended for the Fly Boys, as unfortunately most sets are these days.
I have still not successfully programmed it to do what I want to do, instead of what it is pre-programmed to do for helis and fixed wing aircraft. Not even with it's own Spektrum RX, let alone a 'foreign' RX like Orange.
So I have not yet risked it in a model. Definitely NOT my Catalina.
Since then I have bought a Turnigy I6. Which does the same as the Spektrum, works fine with my Orange RX with giro for the Catalina😉, cost only 69€ (is now available for around 33 quid😡) and within a few hours I had it programmed and tested to do all I want in my destroyer and Sea Scout.👍
In short: the Spektrum is way way way Overkill for your yacht or Fire Float or similar, where you will only ever want rudder and sail servo / winch or rudder and speed control. So flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple (and cheap😉) 2 or 4 channel set. I can't imagine you ever wanting to start building special effects into your models so 2 (max 4) channels is all you will probably ever need. Stick your Spektrum on eBay, maybe you'll get at least a 100 quid for it.
If you still want to go 2.4Gig get yourself a Turnigy i6 set with RX, 6 ch but cheap enough and I can help you directly with binding and programming from experience - I have a good English manual with no Chenglish gobbledygook.
If not and you still have a working 27 or 40MHz FM set (40 would be better) use that. Where you sail, all alone, who's going to bother you or be bothered?
BTW: Yes the Spektrum TX IS DSM2 and DSX compatible BUT you have to tell it what you want to use!!! Frankly I think trying that with a non-Spektrum RX is risky - especially first time out and for a novice Luddite😉
NUMBER 2. THE NiMh BATTERY-
Voltage is not a reliable indication of battery charge / remaining capacity.
After use a battery will recover slightly when at rest and the open terminal (off load) voltage will rise, often to the nominal voltage or slightly above.
This is NO indicator of remaining charge as when a load is applied the voltage will drop again rapidly, the higher the current drawn the faster the voltage drops. if it goes below 1.0V per cell the battery will be permanently damaged and never regain it's original capacity.
Haverlock is dead right about batteries losing charge when not used or regularly recharged. An NiMh batt loses charge at the rate of about 1% per day so after 3 months or so you can send it to the great recycling depot in the sky and buy a new one. Periodic cycling, discharge / charge prevents / minimises this - see care hints I posted above.
And yes, NiMh do have that irritating Memory effect🤔 albeit not so pronounced as with NiCads. Lipos apparently not, but I ain't seen any evidence yet - the jury is still out!
Sooo - ignore the 6.37V and run the batt through a discharge and full charge cycle. if your new NiMh batt has not yet been cycled and charged I would bet that it's present capacity is about 45%. See example below (and in attached pic) of one of my new 4.8V (nom) NiMh RX batts.
NUMBER 3. THE CAPACITY CHECKER -
"Glorified voltmeter" ?
Where did the 6.37V reading come from if not from your 'new toy'?
If it is showing volts it should also be showing capacity in %age.
If you received the wrong thing it's not the "bloody electrics" but the bloody nit who packed and sent it that's at fault. Before you send it back check the below😉
Send me a photo of the Checker you have and with your battery plugged in so I can see what's happening on the display. Otherwise we are all poking about in the dark (Are we back to Jules and his friend Sandy😉😲)
The link I sent you was for a checker exactly the same as mine except for the labelling! As you can see in my photo, properly connected it shows the terminal voltage and the remaining capacity (charge level) of the battery pack. Forget the Nixx (=2 Ni possibilities) display, that just means 'It ain't a LiXX' (3 Li- pissibolities).
Attached photo shows a brand new 4 cell NiMh RX pack 4.8V (Nominal) connected to one of my Checkers.
As you can see the voltage shown is 5.19V, according to the popular 'folklore' that would seem to indicate FULL charge.
Unfortunately not🤔 Capacity indication is 45% which is normal for brand new batteries in storage and transit. Explanation thereof - see above!
RE: " if it can do LiPos, why not the relatively simpler NiMhs?"
a) the LiPo pack has a different chemistry and construction which requires different input circuitry on the checker,
b) LiPos need balancing and are fitted with Balancer Plugs which connect to the multipin connectors on the checker. Each pin connects to one cell of the LiPo so that they can be monitored individually. LiPo chargers use this to balance the cells to within 0.01V (100mV) or less by adjusting the charge / discharge currents to each cell. The checkers use this to show you the individual cell voltages and charge states. A big difference, i.e.lower V and capacity, indicates cells with faults, e.g. higher internal resistance, or a discharged pack which needs charging and balancing.
NiMh packs don't usually have this facility to measure individual cells. They are thus connected to a separate input on the checker which can then only show total pack terminal voltage and capacity.
BTW: if you can get it passed 'THE Management' store your battery packs in the fridge😲 The 'coolth' slows down the rate of self discharge, which is a function of the battery internal resistance, which reduces slightly with reduced temperature😉
Enough for now, back to stripping my PTB for it's Midlife Refit!
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Martin: Just saw your post about another RX. Why the hell not buy a Spektrum designed Rx guaranteed to work with their TX?
Or better still; flog the Spektrum and get a nice simple Turnigy set as above, also recommended by Ron, albeit the 9 ch version.
All this frigging about with 'claimed compatible' bits and pieces just wastes money and time, fogs the issue and don't prove nutt'n!
1 year ago by RNinMunich
I have the 9xR Pro from Turnigy. at the price I payed for it was so good, it is very light in the hand and all the controls just full to hand also I found it very easy to bind with all my receivers.
1 year ago by Fred
I need to get a new radio that I can potentially use on a variety of boats. I have been looking at this: Turnigy TGY-i6 AFHDS Transmitter and 6CH Receiver (Mode 2) from Hobby King. Is it any good? And what is the difference between Mode 1 and Mode 2?
1 year ago by GerryD
Every sub dives - at least once! 😁
1 year ago by RNinMunich
one is tempted to point out submarines do go down and some times even come back up!
1 year ago by Haverlock
I've just been reminded of an incident on our local pond a few years ago. One of our club converted a duck decoy into a
led model complete with four little ducklings towed behind on transparent fishing line. it looked so realistic that a woman within her two daughters started chucking breadcrums at them. Then a park warden came along and told them to stop as white bread was not good for the birds and it also polluted the water!
1 year ago by commodore
I went along to Bury Metro Marine Modelling Society and got some good advice from a chap called Peter (may not be the same one...) Thank you.
The upshot is I'll be swapping the dodgy App-driven Tx/Rx for a proper one.
And why did I buy an unbuilt trawler model? Well the 2ch
will come in handy as a test setup anyway!
1 year ago by malcolmstroud
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models
Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC
This pack provides the
unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor
2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ
CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force)
7.2v/2100mAh drive battery
15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller
Part No: CMBRCP15
I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated
1 year ago by teejay
Hi all and thanks to Ron and Doug I have not forgotten about the TGY-i6 set and have looked at the suggestions from Ron. I looked at a lot of stuff it can be a bit of mine field, I have fond this at Cornwall models Servo, Batteries, Charger & 15A ESC This pack provides the
unit and all items necessary to complete an RC boat kit. Certain models may need a motor Contents: 2-Channel transmitter Reflex Pro 3.1 2.4GHZ 5-Channel receiver, CS-3 steering servo (3kg/cm force) Transmitter batteries, 7.2v/2100mAh drive battery 15Amp Marine Electronic Speed Controller Plug charger Multi-lingual instructions Part No: CMBRCP15 I think this may be the way for me to go as it seem to have all the things I need to learn about in the one package, I know I may have to up grade some parts but for the first timer I think it would do your opinions would be much appreciated
1 year ago by teejay
Just thought I would comment regarding the difference between Mode 1 vs Mode 2. I fly aircraft, but the configuration should be the same using the radio for boats.
Mode 1 - Elevator/Rudder stick on the left. Throttle/Aileron stick on the right. Mode 2 - Throttle/Rudder stick on the left. Aileron/Elevator stick on the right.
I'm getting into boats now and my radio that I will using is set up in the mode 2 configuration. The choice depends on what you have used in the past or the type of radios your boating buddies use. in aircraft flying we always use the same modes just in case someone has to step in and take over the flying. in boating I don't think this a criteria due to the fact the boat would go down like aircraft do sometimes.
Hope this helps.
1 year ago by JBRCfloats
'E' just meant 'Enemy' TJ 😉
NATO codes for USSR stuff, like FOXBAT, FIREFOX etc etc, came much later when the Cold War started.
And I heartily agree with the TGY-i6 recommendation, been using one for some time, very reliable and no problems - once you find a decent English language manual without all the Chenglish gobbledygook. I have one in PDF format if you want.
See also above re Mode 1 and Mode 2, forget it, you can easily use the set the way YOU want and not what the manufacturers pre-programmed for the 'Fly Boys' 👍
Cheers Doug 😎
1 year ago by RNinMunich
Vanity, Victorian Cutter
Thanks, Doug, KMB.
I don't actually know what Dacron line is! I have some nice braided stuff, which doesn't stretch. it reminds me of the stuff my Dad used to get from RS Components to renew the tuning cord on old radios, you know the ones that went "weeoowah oop", when you twiddled the knob on Medium wave mainly. I got 10 metres of it for pennies. I haven't come up with any method for attaching the sheets to the loop yet. Some kind of fancy knot, I'm assuming. Just need mainsail and one jib. The jib is loose footed on Vanity, as are umpteen staysails, but I am not going to shoot the goose that laid the golden egg where my wife making sails is concerned and get greedy. A topsail would look nice though.
I am a real beginner with this sail control stuff. My only experience of a model yacht was an old plastic 575 of my brother's, which was only rigged for rudder control. The sails went where they felt best! But I had hours of fun with it on the river outside my house. I have a finished Veron Veronica in the loft, which I'll get going when I've done Vanity. That'll probably just get rudder control. I also have a huge and lovely pre-War Marblehead which a dear friend gave me. That will have to be done with all sails and rudder control, though quite where I'll sail it I don't know.
1 year ago by Westquay
More running in at Bournville.
Update from MFA Como The motors, as they are, sufficiently comply with CE regulations for electrical emissions. However, sometimes with
you may need the extra suppression to stop radio interference.
Initially try one capacitor across the terminals, this is usually a 0.22uf.
1 year ago by Novagsi0
More running in at Bournville.
The motor is only a few months old, bought new for Howe's models. I've heard of old radio caps going dry and I means after 40 years of service, since the brother in law repairs old radios and juke boxes. But not capacitors after 16 weeks, the motors only done 3 or 4 hours of service in total. I've added an additional cap across the terminals. I also had a reply from the speed controller company they said to check the fail safe on the transmitter which incidentally is working to kill the throttle channel as its a fly sky intended for a (plane).
1 year ago by Novagsi0
More running in at Bournville.
Dennis The Menace, the captain at the helm strikes again, after a radio outage the cockpit ended up full of water up to his waist. Some fresh paint need on the bow. Need to find out why the speed controller without warning goes mad. Tio Marine 50A ESC and fly sky receiver paring.
1 year ago by Novagsi0
Final fitting of cabin roof skins
roof ? not sure about that but yes the cabin is already detailed see earlier in the blog and final pictures will follow when all the metalwork is completed. Roof only opens to be able to see internal detail
1 year ago by mturpin013
Final fitting of cabin roof skins
That piece of video of the cabin roof is awesome. Are you going to have it working off of the
like that. Are you going to fit out the cabin as well ?
1 year ago by BOATSHED
looking for a Mersey Ferry Model
The model is 1.48 scale scratch built on a fibreglass hull.Very detailed and accurate.
led 2.4Ghz with working lights. She is 38 inches long For sale complete with the radio and batteries ready to sail.She is very weatherproof and can sail in rough conditions. The top is sealed on and released with four screws, no need to get inside to charge her up as there is a charging point at the top of the funnel. A display stand is also included I am asking £800. if you are interested you can come and have a look before committing yourself. email me direct on
1 year ago by 4clubs
Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute
Yikes Frodo, I have just measured my plank lengths and indeed they are shorter than the hull approx. 90-100cm!! Considering two kits are identical this must be the intention of billing boats. Has anyone got and advice on this? I was thinking that it might be best to split the plank in half, glue the bow and stern ends first, then glue a plank section in the middle area? "We could do with some help here chaps". Another thing Frodo, do not try and fit the M500 motor I have!! (please see photos), stick with the M400 its smaller. As you can see in the photos my battery will not fit....GULP. Does anyone know if there is a smaller battery out there? The one I have is a 4405385 (Cornwall model boats P/N) 7.2V 3300 H. One other thing Frodo "DO NOT" fit the metal rudder post & item 16, if you do you will not get your inner prop shaft into the tube. The only way to do this would be to remove the motor. Probably best to leave the rudder & item 16 until you have fitted the motor & battery. Also I am finding the space in the hull is very limited for
, choose your equipment wisely. I am now thinking I must ditch the M500 motor for the M400 and then look at alternative battery size. After building the Boulogne-Etaples this St Canute kit is extremely challenging. Anyone out there with some suggestions would be a great help....kind of sinking here a bit (a few photos attached) Frodo if you have any further questions please let us know. Cheers Richard.
1 year ago by Richard7
(Racing Boat) NDQ Modified
NDQ cheap hull, ripped out radio replaced motors with brushless 2845 2600kv add rudder/ servo, trim tabs and turn fins also added strakes to the underside, foamed the hull to make it unsinkable add radio link radio modified to control both motors 2845 2600kv via SimonK firmware developed for drones brushless escs ( both motors run at same speed) 30A.
Boat currently pulls enough to get hot motors on 3s (240W total). (Motor: BL 2845 2600kv) (ESC: 30A gerneric) (9/10)
1 year ago by CB90
Hi Doug, that old Billing Boat kit that your going to refurbish is the larger kit of the Norden. Before I purchased the St Canute that was my second choice, but I think its a difficult boat to fit
etc., so I went with the St Canute. Over the last few days I have been making space for the M500 motor, I have attached some pictures of the final result, the motor top shaft alignment is pretty good. in hindsight I should have gone with the M400, but hey-ho its done now, what do you think? Cheers Richard
1 year ago by Richard7
Hard chine / multi chine sailing yacht
You might try to obtain a book from long time ago (1950), "Build Yourself a Model Yacht" by WJ Daniels and HB Tucker in which there are plans for a 30" Sharpie and a36" Restricted Class. I have made three Sharpie models recently - all converted to
. The last two I made by the stitch-an-glue method having taken panel templates from the original built-as-per-plan model. Not competitive but a fun model in all types of weather!
1 year ago by Mzee
Hello, please see attached photos of my fleet todate, the Billing Boats Norden is a static model, the other two are fitted with
1 year ago by Richard7
1-35 scale S100 schennllboot blog
Hi all this is my first blog, last year I post my intention to do a project about an RAF D boat that my Father served on and as a precursor to that build That I was going to do this S/E boat as the hull design is shared buy both, and as plastic kit modeller the kit great the first stage was to put together the decks and superstructure as normal, with the exception of all the bits that would be easily broken as most kit aircraft modellers aerials and guns tend to brake ,so long ago I got into the habit of making these out brass rod or bar using a mini drill and a set of needle files, holding the drill in my left hand and the files in my right, when started this I saw the number of stanches I needed so I came across this little beauty a mini bead lathe it is a great bit of kit and not expensive less than £50 and plenty of types and accessories available so all the stanches aerials hand rails, gun rails, horn, and some of the components for the rudder and tiller were made on this lathe. so good time being had in my first
boat . the next post will show all the parts for the rudder/tiller setup
1 year ago by teejay
A few more photos including the
led cargo now in british livery
1 year ago by Bryan-the-pirate
Ps it is my understanding that the term E-boat was the allied ID for the s boots much the same as the Russian TU 95 is known the bear
1 year ago by teejay
Hi RNinMunich I am building the 1-35 scale schenllboot from italeri as the design was use for the RAF RttLs which were built in Germany in the 1950s my father was RT operator on D2763 &4 they were only in service for 5years , I did a post on the project about this time last year ,and since the tax man has returned my pension money I am now in a position to proceed , I am at the stage where the kit decks are complete and I have done the rudders and I am working on the tillers,( for s boot)and since I have been able to re equip my workshop / garage I will be starting the D boat, and thanks to ukengineman for the info on the TGY-i6, I expect I will be asking more advice in the near future.
1 year ago by teejay
You can do a one-off donation anytime
Main menu transported here on mobile
Caldercraft Clyde Puffer Motor and Prop - Help Needed