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You're talking about using one of these?
or on ebay...
So long as these are the advised spec by the manufacturer, why worry about the impedance?
You might be interested in this discussion I had a little while ago on the Single Channel site about replacing 2.4Ghz aerials - points Martin made include:
"......I tested all my detachable 2.4 GHz antennas and found quite a wide range of frequencies they were best tuned for, ranging from about 2.1 to 2.6 GHz - but they all work fine and have pretty good SWRs at the 2.45 GHz point.
What was more interesting was testing various antennae that I've received for various pieces of kit over the years that run at 433 MHz, 5.8 GHz and the GPS frequencies of 1.2 and 1.6 GHz. Many of these are just 2.4 GHz antennas - I even have one that is labelled 433 MHz, but is really a 2.4 GHz and quite useless at 433 MHz!......."
".....It is important to realize that all the coax cables we use (all relatively light and thin) are all quite lossy at 2.4 GHz, so you shouldn't make the non-transmitting (intact cable) part any longer than it needs to be. if you have a foot or two of coax feeding the active part of the antenna (the modified bit at the end) then you can easily lose half of the available signal....."
I would also add that polarisation may become important when you have an aerial close to a horizontal reflective plane like a lake. I suspect that you might get a lot of the signal coming at you horizontally polarised, which a vertically mounted aerial won't like.
For video output from a boat I've been using the circular polarised aerials that the drone operators use in an attempt to maintain signal at distance - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-4GHz-Circular-Polarized-clover-leaf-Antenna-set-with-short-connector-RP-SMA/253889968333?hash=item3b1d0578cd:g:YkEAAOSw5LZcZF3Y:rk:3:pf:0
1 year ago by DodgyGeezer
Building the Cabin. Part 2
Before the front window panels can be added to the cabin structure they need to be shaped to follow the curvature of the front deck as much as possible and then glued together with a reinforcing strip on the back of the joint.
Unfortunately I made an error 😡 when shaping and jointing the parts and had to make some new panels from some thin ply that I had to hand using the old panels as a template, hence the roughly cut window apertures in the ‘photos.
This was unfortunate but I feel better for the confession 🙏.
The new window panel was then glued and pinned to the front of the cabin assembly and left to dry while in the meantime I used my hot air gun to heat and bend the roof panel to the correct curvature.
The roof panel was then pinned and glued in place on the cabin framework and when dry was trimmed with a small plane and the front window panel trimmed down to the roof profile.
I added some additional framing and bracing pieces at the base of the front window panels and a ‘shelf’ which will form part of the dashboard inside the cabin.
I also added some extra framing and an end panel at the rear of the roof and a thin square bead was fitted around the base of the cabin sides and front to improve the appearance where the cabin meets the deck.
Before adding further detail to the cabin I used some Z-Poxy finishing resin on the roof panel to strengthen it and provide a better surface for the paint finish which comprised of one coat of white primer, two coats of gloss ‘Appliance White’ and two coats of gloss lacquer, all with a thorough rub down between.
When all the paint had dried and hardened I gave the exterior of the cabin a first coat of ‘Antique Pine’ stain.
Next I will add some detail to the deck.
1 year ago by robbob
I understand the confusion as there is almost too much infor nation on the web, much of it is mis-leading. I have been using this technology for 12 years now and have owned and used at least 8 Spektrum receivers. Here's my take:
1. You need a DSM2 or DSMX Transmitter, that simple.
2. My first photo shows a Spektrum AR7000 RX in my tugboat. it's a nice RX, IS 7 channel with an addition satellite received. it's overkill for a boat that just needs a couple of channels and doesn't fall to earth in a failure. Originally purchased for an RC Airplane, it's pricey at $90 to $100 USD. OUCH.
3. Ti try the less expensive RX's available no, first I tried OrangeRX and bought 3, none of which ever worked, a problem with China's lack of quality control.
4. Recently p, I needed two more RXs for boat builds and read that LemonRX was doing pretty good. Last two photos are of the Lemon, model LM0034. They work great and bind very easy, best of all they are $16 USD ! www.lemon-rx.com
5. One caveat with the lemon, they come just as shown in photo....no documentation. You need to look up on the internet which port is which and how to bind. Took me about 10 minute, bu is something to consider if this is your first hookup. Knowing which set of prongs go to what channel is critical.
Personally, in the future, I am going to buy more Lemons...
Hope this helps, Ask any question that you may have, we are all hear to help each other.
1 year ago by Joe727
My other hobby
Hi. Mi private pilots license also does not include night flying. But interesting is to consider when they define what is included. When having a certain number of instructed night flights you are entitled to fly in the vicinity of an airport. Vicinity of an airport German definition is that you have to be able to see the traffic in the pattern of an airport.
When I did my flight from San Jose, CA to Phoenix SkyHarbour, I was able to see the traffic being about 1.5 hours from the airport. The night definition is that the night begins 30 minutes after sunset. So was entitled to do this night approaches as you can see the traffic in the pattern, on a large airport like Sky Harbour, and in the Southwest of the USA from very far.
But when doing these landing operations at a large international airport, shortly before touch-down you are flying into a black hole. Due to this on my first landing in Sky Harbour, I made an awful 3-point-landing making the plane jump 2 or 3 times. Fortunately, I was aware of how to react properly when this happens.
The second special experience is when you are taxiing on the runway to get to its exit and report "runway vacated" in a small plane like a Cessna Cutlass the lights lose their structure. So I went to search for the yellow line on the left side of the runway until it curved into the exit. But this yellow line and the blue runway lights are hugely distant from each other so I had to focus my efforts to stay to the right of the blue lights but still being able to see the yellow line. Once I crossed the lines that mark that you are leaving the runway I could report back to the tower "runway vacated".
My second-night landing was when I did try to fly to an airport next to the "Grand Canyon". As the report of the airport said expect gain or lose 40 knots of speed on final I decided not to land and flew back To Phoenix.
What a wonderful experience. The landscape was already impressive on my flight to the Grand Canyon, but it was topped when I flew by night. First I was in contact with one center in charge while being above a certain altitude. Then this center passes you to one in charge below that altitude. Makes you feel like a professional pilot. Finally, this center did pass me to the tower of Sky Harbor. I was approaching from the north. Then, what controllers of large airports like they make you cross the airport midfield what ensures you stay away from the other traffic of the airport. You cannot imagine what a sight it is when you approach a large city like Phoenix by night. After he gave me its clear to land I was remembering my awful night landing earlier. When I did have the feeling that I was about to touch-down I did control the airplane so that all you felt on touch-down was the vibration of the wheels turning. A Geman friend of mine that was on the plane with me was so impressed that he said he would fly again with me at any time.
One other fact I want to share is the importance to really dominate the phraseology of radio communication and what Americans call to know the system. On my first approach by night to Phoenix, I did confuse the last VOR with the ILS beacon.
So when switching to what I thought to be the last VOR the needle got full to the right and stayed there. So I did a report I was not able to tune in the VOR and so tower did give me instructions for the further approach. When you fly in from the west you fly over a mountain full of antennas and the red lights on top of it. I felt very good being routed by the tower. Those of you familiar with night-flight and how to find the location of the airport know the rule of the black spot within the lights of the city is where the airport is. Well, Sky Harbor has the terminal building between its 2 runways and so Sky Harbor does not look like a black spot. So when the tower asked me if I had field in sight I did respond negative a couple of times until he reported that I was on the 45 for the runway. Then I finally saw the airport. Here is something that is the consequence of good radio training. My instructor always said to report negative until you are really enabled to say affirm. So Tower knows when you are really able to report affirm. Do not be shy, it is your and others life!
The second time on that approach was when tower gave me the instruction: 3-60 to the right until further advice! My teacher played the role of the tower and one of the things he said to teach us the right behavior was to stay silent and fly as instructed until tower contacts you again. I do confess I had never done 3-60s neither by night nor during the day! So I put the plane into a standard curve, kept it there, watched my altitude and speed. Being so familiar with this instruction from the tower I felt "at home" and this being relaxed was very useful!
2 years ago by Hellmut1956
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Don't know what happened to my last post but I'll try again. This link, https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1148637-wire-lengths-between-ESC-motor-ESC-battery may be a useful read and explain what I am on about (rough idea in pic). I don't think too many people are aware of some of the problems which can be caused by altering Batt to ESC wiring. I don't think its too much of a problem at lower voltages but see what you think.
Not sure if you have a throttle curve facility on your new TX but if it has, using that you can create a gentle start, ramping up steadily, no matter how fast you push the stick up. You can ram the stick up but it will only follow the curve you set. eg pic showing random curve (you can make this any shape you want to control any function) there are usually a number of curves you can set and save for throttle, rudder - anything you want to control automatically. Not sure about your TX but my 9xr even has a feature whereby you can slow the servo action down (I use that on my Piper Super Cub flaps which come down slowly in 2 stages (2 pos switch) and go up faster. Your new TX probably has a lot of these features and once you find how to use them it will open up a whole new world of fun. Another example of what you can do with these computer radios is, on one of my models I am using 'flapperons' to slow it for landing and as the ailerons come down the elevator is mixed to move up to compensate to stop the plane nosing down. it's pretty much endless what you can do. I'm still exploring after 8 yrs of computer radio use. I remember a guy somewhere talking about the flashing lights on his plane and saying it wasn't the lights on a flasher unit it was the TX telling them to flash.
2 years ago by jbkiwi
Brushless motors (again)
depending upon the type of motor cooling it can be a problem. Most brushless motors are out runners so the case rotates! in runners are usually for higher speed applications (or driving a gearbox). if you have an idea as to the size of IC engine the boat was intended to have then this list may be a help
.049 or .051 = 100 watts
0.10 = 200 watts
0.15 = 300 watts
0.25 = 500 watts
0.32 = 640 watts
0.40 = 800 watts
0.45 = 900 watts
0.51 = 1020 watts
0.61 = 1220 watts
0.75 = 1500 watts
0.91 = 1820 watts
Since Watts are Volts * Amps ( I know this is not accurate for a reactive load like an electric motor but its a rule of thumb)
This gives you a ball park next point is the KV ( revs per volt) of a motor. The higher the KV the smaller the prop. Finally buy a Watt meter they are not expensive and give you a chance to " fine tune" a setup.
Car ESCs ( usually) have a reverse function while the airplane versions do not. They are generally cheaper than boat specific ESCs.
2 years ago by Haverlock
Ha Ha i got no credit for some things I came up with either Trouble is I can only remember the word FANTABULOUS which I invented by accident Fantastic and fabulous ame to mind together as I was talking and the hybrid word came out.🤓🤓 Re the BECS I know that but I couldn't explain it like you and was also asking what I thought Martin wanted to know. Floating arrays? Didn't TESLA do something similar during the RC boat . trials? Or was that actually the vessel itself? in one of my bigger boats I used FOUR ex GPO L/A cells which was enough with it's Ex forces motors to put a bone in the boat's teeth as the say. The boat ? RMV Mauritania 5 feet long but very light for it's size hence the need for the accumulator cells Balsa frames and sides with ceiling tile superstructure with balsa bracing. Free running so it was always heeling and with the bone creaming at the forefoot was very impressive. Destroyed by a guy collapsing on it. He'd only fainted but me pore owl gerl was just chips and snowflakes from one end to the other. Nothing to repair as there was nowt left to repair🤐 I kept one cell for starting glow motors and sold the rest at a good profit. incidentally the motors were that good that when everyone found out where to get them They were sold out in 2 days with no more available anywhere Don't know what they were out of but from the overspray on them ( cockpit green but the Yank version -- we thought) we believed they were from planes. Very solid with 9 segment rotor . Totally enclosed. Airtight? presumably to prevent arcing igniting fumes. The rotorsegments? We found out when one didn't run so we stripped it and found them shining at us. Lovely tight windings. Thick with shellac/varnish. The problem? A stuck brush caused by a tight pivot Drop of 3 in one oil and a very light smear of grease cured it. The carbons were replaceable if you could make or find some. I found a firm in Formby that made and sold brushes for anything. I fixed son's Fiat automatic thenks to them. it had a magnetic clutch and the brushes were so worn we didn't know what the shape should be. Turned out to be about 2 inches long rectangles plain and simple. LOL. Wish I could find some of those lovely engineered motors now.😤👍
2 years ago by onetenor
HMS BRAVE BORDERER
Adjusted the transom flaps and reprogrammed the ESCs to the softest start settings, retested. Until now, the test runs did not have the duration or stability to really examine what was happening.
Using 3 S batteries acceleration is rapid and a is plane quickly achieved. However, as the acceleration continues and speed increases, the bow digs in. A cloud of spray then surrounds the model as the plane is lost. Brushless motors do not modulate as smoothly as brushed and adjusting power tends to be erratic or exaggerated.
This is a scale model and the propeller shaft angles are per the plans. The thrust from the propeller has two components, horizontal and vertical. The horizontal propels the vessel forward. However, the vertical component forces the stern upwards and, correspondingly, the bow down. Have moved as much weight as possible towards the stern to counteract this, limited by maintaining the correct displacement and waterline. The easiest solution is to reduce motor power, decreasing both speed and the lifting component.
Decided to retry the 2S batteries as they give reduced power. A plane is again achieved, but as the motor response is more docile, it can be controlled. if the speed gets too high the bow lowers, as before, but the motor output can be more easily adjusted.
Spent a pleasant half hour or so with the vessel accelerating onto and off a nice, controllable plane. Much less spray and drama than with 3S and much more controllable.
Have now decided to revise plans and use 2S rather than 3 batteries. A further advantage is the motor noise is muted and now sounds more like a gas turbine than a dental drill!
Finally feeling comfortable with the model. Will thus shelve further building until the late fall when sailing in Canada concludes. Want to enjoy the rest of my fleet in the meantime!
Will summarize my experiences with brushless motors in another blog shortly for the benefits of others contemplating their use. After restarting the model will resurrect periodic build blogs to advise progress.
2 years ago by RHBaker
More dense really. The epo foam used on the ready to fly
s is ideal. I used Depron on the fire boat it’s the stuff used to insulate flooring. it was ok but a bit brittle.
2 years ago by pmdevlin
Huge liner model from 1929
I often visit the British Pathe site, which has an archive of over 60,000 film clips covering an infinite range of subjects, going back to the beginning of the 20th century. I have wasted many hours looking at it. However, if you visit the site and punch in Miniature Mariners, (www.britishpathe.com/video/miniaturemariners/query/miniature+mariners), you will find an interesting selection from 1929, that includes the still extant Victoria Park Club running a hydroplane with a huge audience. The clips finish with a truly awesome liner model of about 40 feet length and apparently sea-going. The information board ( it was a silent film in 1929) tells us very little: it is French and 40 foot long. I know that it is a long time ago and French but do any other sailors know more about this?
3 years ago by wunwinglo
Im not on here that much, so a little late picking this up. Are you talking about TT25 transducers like the ones Mrrcsound sell/ I suppose they all work the same, I've used these a lot, in planes mostly, and experimented with boats, so can offer some hands on advice.
Firstly, you don't cut any holes to let sound out, as this isn't how they work. its all about the vibrations. The centre ring is epoxied (that's the best way, they have to be permanent, but with some teasing they can be removed it required, rather than cyno) to the surface, which obviously needs to be flat. The thinner the material, the more sound, but its marginal, as the thinner you go, the less bass, or deeper tones. With planes, the best material by far is the epo foam, so when mounting into a ply or balsa plane they work best going to foam, then the ply, and the same will apply for a boat. 2-3mm is generally the optimum thickness. Remember, the area is going to vibrate, so use an area that can do this, the sides of a hull are ideal. The back of the transducers get hot, so don't cover the back, the heat has to dissipate and once secure, make sure the unit can move in and out, its easy to drip glue in the wrong place and the whole thing gets stuck, it wont vibrate now, so won't do the job.
Also, its worth epoxying the transducer to 2mm foam, epo that the ready to fly planes works best, its close density, the stuff that packs white goods is poor as its a more open density and falls apart. Once you have this, you can move it around by just holding it against the hull to see where the best sound is.
All this is relevant to the Mrrcsound transducers, I use a number of his sound units, so cant really comment on what you are using as I cant find that info on this thread (did a man read!)
Here are a couple of my models to give you an idea👍
so these are all Mrrcsound units, and both have two tt25 transducers either side ogf the hull and fuselage.
With the Mrrcsound systems, you can use two tt25, if you want an additional two, then an aux amp is required
hope that helps!
2 years ago by pmdevlin
Emma C Berry Schooner
The kits came with the tapered masts. I did have make one of the masts over as it was warped.What I did was purchase a 1/2” hard wood dowel marked the center and smaller diameter on one end then used a small razor plane to taper it to almost the shape I needed then cut the lenth just a bit longer so I could fit it into my 1/2 drill chock fastened the drill to my work bench and used it like a makeshift lath then used sandpaper to smooth and shape the final taper needed. Hope this helps Mike
2 years ago by Mikep
Air screw driven hydro
I recently acquired an air screw driven hydroplane fitted with an A.M 15 diesel engine. The boat appeared to have either been from the Mercury Kit which was produced from the early 1960s till late 1970s or may have been built from the plans.
What was unusual is that it had been fitted with R.C for rudder only operation and when I put a receiver in to try it, the system worked well. I also ran the engine and it appears to have been as new and after examination of the boat this appeared to have not been used either.
In the 1960s I had built a couple of airscrew boats and they were free running powered by engines taken from my control line model aircraft after they had been pranged.
Intentions are to eventually get the hydroplane on the water with brushless electric power due to the "No I.C" rules on my local boating lakes, something I never had to worry about as a 15 year old .
2 years ago by boaty
Speranza is a lovely boat and handles nicely but don't undepower it. Vic's Pond Skater is a good flyer and can be converted to leccy and rc. I put a half circle of piano wire across the tips of the front float as a buffer in case of striking an obstacle. My motive power Was 1.5 diesel a prop cut down from a heavy nylon 9" one so just clears the hull/frame . Free running was loads of fun. Air rudder not water. if it is sluggish and won't plane increase the downthrust. The opposite of what you might expect. Regards John Pond Skater can be found on Web Google Vic Smeed Model boat plans. BTW an original thread can be found on here with the title Scudder👍
2 years ago by onetenor
Spektrum, new, useless...
Hi doug I'm glad you sorted that Tx problem. Easy when etc. . I was about to suggest a "dry" soldered joint at the switch which would have had the same effect. My No2 son got pulled by the smokeys for driving with his fog lamps blazing in fine weather. As he had just bought the vehicle he just got verballed and a notice to repair etc. I went through it with a meter from front to rear. No dice so I suggested finding the fuse and pulling it until I had more time to go through it again. Rob opened the fuse box and found that two wires were 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍trapped under it with the insulation split giving a permanent live to the fog lights when the headlights were turned on. Again someone had been careless. Often the case unfortunately rather like the store man who put the wrong bolts in the bin and the engineer using them to put in an aircraft windscreen that blew out in flight. The blast carried the pilot half way out where he hung until the plane landed. A few thous made all the difference. Imagine if the fault in the tranny was in a mains powered item just what might have happened. I shudder to think. sorry mods for hi-jacking the thread. John O/T
2 years ago by onetenor
Spektrum, new, useless...
Hi Martin, glad Doug sorted your spektrum, the problem is we do live in a different world now, back in the 70s 80s and 90s a model rc aircraft was something small boys and even big boys would be in wonder of because you had to spend a lot of time effort,money,and patience to have one.
However that is not the case now, I can go to Tesco just now and for very little money (£35ish) walk out of the door with a small 4 channel 2.4GHz
and go attempt to fly it in my local park.
Now there lies the problem model rc aircraft are no longer things old men like us would spend months making then going to our club fields to fly.
Let's go one step further, let's go to any good model shop and buy, ready to fly, what is described on the box as a "Park flyer" now this Park flyer is capable of over 100mph coming out of a reversal manoeuvre in straight and level flight.
Now we on here would never fly this model in a public place, but a lot of people will and do.
I used to be an active member of SMAE way back but am no longer because I'm lucky enough to have access to a totally private field.
2 years ago by stormin
Spektrum, new, useless...
Hi Doug, I could be interested in that Rx of yours. But I thought that the Txs were Ok for either DSMX or DSM2, although I haven't any idea what they are. PM me with a price?
To be honest, I hate working foam and was glad to be rid of the Lightning master in the end. And Mick is such a lovely guy. I'm sure Firme Hahn haven't missed the slab of foam I made it from!
When I were a wee loddy, all RC 'planes were little. 4 foot was a big boy. Now, 4 foot is laughed at. Even a Super 60 is considered small.
I may just go ahead with something of a small trainer level and then slam down the Skystreak 32. We'll have to see. Or it might be a flying wing slope soarer to fly up at my son's place in Berwick on the Scotch borders. Lob it, fly around, land it, go ome. Suits me!
2 years ago by Westquay
Spektrum, new, useless...
Hi Martin, have to admit I haven't flown it yet, the damn Orange RX won't work with my TXs 😆 So I'm about to buy the Lemon version, which is supposed to be Spektrum DMX and DSM2 compatible! We'll see!
Guess I could at least do some taxiing trials with a standard RX on the Ostpark lake!? I haven't actually flown anything for nearly 50 years 😲
Did once 'fly' a Victor tanker simulator, that was fun😁
Also flew a real Grumman trainer a few times, from Blackwater airfield near Camberley, just before I left UK for Germany. That was LOADS MORE fun😊
For your 'smallish hairyplanes' the stabiliser RX could also be useful!?
Just so happens 😁 I've got an Orange version, which works with your TX😊, going spare!!😁
In my, admittedly limited, experience small
s can be very twitchy and sensitive to winds!
That's why I switched to ship building; two Totals and a Fly-away😡
I can swim but I can't fly 🤔
You absolute nut! You gave away such a treasure! Without even arranging some royalties? I'm surprised at you 😲
1/7, wow! 10 times the size of the Airfix kit I built back then.
The EE Lightning was a nice bird (sheer brute force and ignorance😁), but not a patch on the Hawker Hunter for sheer looks and just STYLE!
I flew the KeilKraft version for while, until I managed to Jetex it outta sight, at RAF Hemswell, now a housing estate I see 🤔
Nostalgia ain't what it used to be, or ...?
Alles gute alter Knacker! Cheers, Doug 😎
2 years ago by RNinMunich
Whilst waiting for the new motors and ESCs, reviewed videos of the vessel under power and noted that as the speed increases, the bow lifts towards a plane. However, as she gathers speed the transom flaps become effective, forcing the bow down in a cloud of spray. At this point the plane has been lost and the model becomes almost uncontrollable.
Decided to temporarily ballast the hull to simulate the new motors and ESCs, then try to establish the optimum flap angle using just the centre propeller and shaft. This is the original 2838 brushless motor installation with a 30 mm propeller. With this simulated drivetrain it would also be an opportunity to determine the best battery locations for both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries.
Made up an angle template with a spirit level to get the correct deck inclination with the vessel floating at rest. From this located each type of battery statically - somewhere close to the mid-point of the hull. Which also seemed as good a place to start as any!
Somewhere in the research for this model found a reference to the transom flap angle. This was at a 2 degree -ve (pointing downwards) angle. installed the 2S battery and tried the model. The bow dug in at speed. Adjusted the flap to a straight and level position and tried again. The bow still wanted to dig in, but to a reduced extent. Readjusted the angle to 2 + ve and repeated. The bow now lifted so the forefoot just cleared the water and then remained in that position.
Replaced the 2S battery with the 3S. The extra power obviously increased speed and the bow lifted slightly further. The spray was deflected by the chine rails and a level plane established.
The conclusion is that the transom flap angle is critical to the correct planing of this model and that it should not be negative.
Until the new motors and ESCs are fitted will leave the transom flap and battery locations as is. Once these components are installed, intend to repeat the test. Am confident that with some fine tuning the model can be now made to plane properly at a scale speed.
Interesting to note that the model will just about plane with only one propeller operating – wonder what it will be like with all three?
2 years ago by RHBaker
Mini Olympus gearbox
Mornin' Donnie, at least it is here on our side of the 'pond',
Many thanks for the appreciation 👍
It's sort of an extension of my profession (in miniature) into my retirement.
I used to design / develop radio equipment and later full communication systems. The last 32 years specialising in COMMS for naval ships.
I would do the initial system design to the navy operational requirements and then negotiate the refinements and inevitable upgrades and changes with the navy and/or shipbuilder. Sometimes dragging them up to date in the process 😉
Wish I was in Canada too! I designed the COMMS refit for the RCN MCMVs (Mine Counter Measures Vessels) several years ago. Also worked in Newfoundland with Provincial Airways Engineering on the mini AWACS planes they were converting for UAE. Enjoyed both projects and the great people I worked with very much.
I still do my research the same way as then; if I don't know how something works, I find out double quick! Only way to stay ahead of the end user - and the competition 😉 Very glad you are finding the site useful 😊
Cheers, Doug 😎
2 years ago by RNinMunich
Spektrum, new, useless...
post up a pic of the orange rx, lets see what version it is. EG, I have a DX8i which will work with both dsm2 and dsmx, I bought it for this very reason, so I can use both.
You keep saying that the tx needs to be found to be faulty or not, but as Doug says, if you don't have it in the correct format to match the receiver, its never going to work. Spektrum are reliable, so I doubt the tx is faulty
BInd plug in receiver
power source to receiver, orange light flashes quick (make sure its 6v, if you are using less it might not work, so think about this, I use a 4 aa pack to test things like this, last night doing exactly the same could not get a bind, the 4 aa's had dropped to 5.5v, change the batts, 6v all worked)
hold tile trainer switch, turn on tx at same time
keep hold of switch, wait a minute or so, light on rx goes steady.
TX neds to match the rx, dsm2 or dsmx
sorry if I'm repealing things, failing hat go to local rc boat, or plane club, and ask someone to second face what you are doing
2 years ago by pmdevlin
LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights
Number 1, Get yourself some more batteries! You'll want a spare at the pond anyway 😉
Better still, get a variable mains power supply for such bench tests so you don't have to mess with batteries until you're on the pond!
Here in Munich I got a Basetech 30V 5A regulated PSU for less then the price of a decent boat kit. See 2nd pic, shows mine during my test of a converted field coil motor to make it run forwards and backwards.
it saves a lot of faffing about with batteries for a quick test of a circuit😉 Get one where you can set a current limit down to mAmps so you don't risk blowing components, e.g. LEDs!
Re Connectors: if you are going to make a little distribution board for the lights then why not use this for all connections to the superstructure?
I.e. first solder all the wires from the circuit board into the input end of your Veroboard.
At the output end solder a strip of 1/10" pitch connector pins. Try Radio Shack!
For each output to lamps, smoker etc you can then use the little 2 pin JST plugs. See pic. Type JST-RCY. Try Googling them.
Sure you can get these from any half decent Online RC supplies shop over there. They are often used in Park Flyer planes etc.
Doing it that way you only have half the wires to squash into the tiny plugs 😉
As soon as we have the voltage readings we can work out the connections and resistors etc for your little board.
Happy measuring😁 Looking forward to your sketch. Cheers, Doug 😎
2 years ago by RNinMunich
H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER
itted 2 x two bladed 35 mm “hi-speed” propellers to the outer shafts only as these are the easiest to change. Can also use the centre shaft measurements as a check of the previous figures as it is unchanged.
With these propellers the current draw and bollard pull both increased. Subjectively, think she was also slightly faster, but the speed exceeds scale speed anyway.
The increased load on one of the 2 bladed props wiped the blades off and several 30 A fuses on various motor circuits blew.
Originally, the battery was fitted as far forward as possible to hold the bow down – some thing it seems to have achieved! Decided to remove the forward battery location frame and replace it with one which will allow the battery to be positioned anywhere between the bow and the centre of the model. The battery can now be located where the best plane is achieved. Once the correct battery is fitted the final location will be determined. This frame movement will also allow adjustments for any weight gained during final finishing.
Whilst the idea of using a load cell and ammeter/wattmeter to measure bollard pull and motors loads sounds logical, it is fraught with challenges. The vessel both bucks and the readings fluctuate wildly under load making getting steady, consistent results difficult.
Off now to cogitate over the results and decide a path forward.
2 years ago by RHBaker
47'' Fireboat power question
This design of hull forces the craft higher and higher the faster it goes. When it is high on the plane and almost hanging on the last few inches of propshaft it can fall off the plane either way, usually to the right (Starboard) side because of engine torque. The full size boats were fitted with 2 or 3 engines to help counteract this.
The British Powerboat Company, who originally designed the hull that Vospers copied back in the 1930s/40s also noticed this which led to double skinning the hull with 1 inch thick mahogany for extra strength against pounding and falling on the waves. Lowering the drive angle of the propellor shafts and adding more weight from the C of G back to near the stern.
We build this 3 screwed designed hull with one mainshaft usually so do not have the benefit of shaft rotation to stabilise the boat at speed.
It was in the 1960's that Fairey engineers had the same problems (Swordsman,Huntsman etc) They came up with large transom mounted powered Trim Tabs. Their boats had similar problems and only one shaft in the main.
I suggest you try fitting 2 x 2 inch wide by 1 inch deep trim tabs at the very bottom of your transom midway between the keel and the chine as well as move your battery packs forward a bit initially. Try some fast tests with this, you only need 2 to 4 degrees of down on the tabs initially. Add removeable weights near the CG as needed, a bit at a time but don't stop the bow lifting up onto the plane.
Have fun, best of luck.
2 years ago by ronrees
(Racing Boat) WL 915
WL 915 ready to run Brushless 2.4GHz RTR Electric RC Speed Boat.
This RC boat is capable of reaching speeds up to 25MPH and anti-capsizing technology?
The flood chamber in this boat causes the boat to struggle to get up on the plane, in the end I filled it with foam, and put in a new rudder offset to the right, it now goes well, and I haven't flipped it yet!
•Capable Of Up To 25MPH?
•11.1V 1200mAh LiPo Rechargeable Battery
•Length: 17.25 inches
•Width: 6.8 inches
•Height: 4.7 inches
I will be modifying this little boat as it has a few annoying problems they are:
1. The flood chamber fills quickly and once full hampers the boat in accelerating and getting on the plane.
2. You cannot run the boat slowly as the flood chamber fills
3. The self righting is not 100 percent reliable.
4. Binding is initially difficult
a. Replace cabin so boat lies flat when inverted.
so able to use rudder extension to steer when upside-down.
b. Racing rudder side position out of prop-wash and aids torque effects.
c. Fill float chamber with foam so gets on the plane quickly.
d. Cut down rudder as too long (95mm) to 65mm.
The cabin will be finished and painted properly after testing.
On testing the rudder was reduced and performed well once it got going but still have problems getting it up on a plan it feel this could be a balance issue, needs more mass at the stern. (Motor: outrunner) (ESC: unknown) (5/10)
2 years ago by CB90
I do a lot of wreck research and one of the reasons I joined was to find a sea plane tender that had picked up the pilot from a 1941 plane I had found underwater. I needed a photo of a similar boat but couldn't find the tender on the web. I mentioned it on here and back came a photo of the self same sea plane tender from RNMunich? That meant so much to me but I have been intrigued by the details and research modellers do on here. I felt so grateful that I donated to such a great site.
2 years ago by SelwynWilliams
46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery
you might now be scratching your head, and wishing you have not asked the original question! This seems to be a common issue, as the boating community is light years behind the other disciplines, rc cars, planes helis and so on, its probably due to the facts general boating doesnt really need the later generation technology, the average boater age is probably higher than the other disciplines so budgeting might be an issue, and there is less younger blood in the clubs to explain the lipo/brushless etc.
We see posts with a load of numbers, specs, warnings etc, its enough to put people off.
Im a big fan of brushless/lipo/ 2.4 etc, been doing it for years, its cheaper and more efficient (once you have the basics) but for the average guy, who just wants to spend an easy afternoon at the local lake gently cruising around, brushed motors, nimhs batteries, even lead acid, will do the job👍
Your 4 foot ply boat, once painted, with fittings, will be heavy, I know, I own one. Those 600 motors are not big enough, they are better suited to the smaller 3 foot boat, then, pushing them with a 6v lead acid, just cant do it. The battery will be screaming HELP!! I started 15 years back exactly the same, 600 motor, 6v battery, massive 50mm prop, I knew no better and took advise from people who didnt know what they were talking about😡, remember those gold hi tech speed controllers!! I had one, it melted, literally melted on the first use😭
Get 700 size motors, they will need to be water cooled, as mentioned by jarvo, the nominal voltage or below isnt good enough, power them at the max voltage. Brushed means you can use one apropriate esc, look out for electronize (are they still in existance?) or mtroniks, preferably use nimhs batteries over lead acid with a high mah.
If after all this you want to venture into lipos and brushless motors, go to a club, spot a boat that is similar in size to yours, if you like the performance talk to the owner and gain experience and knowledge that way, it will save money, lost time and a lot of disappointment, I have been there so feel your pain.
I say I would never go back to brushed motors and none lipo batteries, but I always want silly speed, not runtime, after 15 minutes Ive had enough and am bored. Rambling over!
My 4 foot boat is twin brushless and uses 4 lipo 5000mah cells per motor, it will do 25mph for 15 mins, then I go home😁
Message is, you can get a "reasonable" performance from brushed motors, with the correct batteries, right props, but weight is the enemy. Looks lie you are at Biddulph, get onto Dave M a moderator on here, and arrange to go over to see the crewe and district boys on one of their sailing days, take your boat with you, they will help👍
2 years ago by pmdevlin
TRIUMPH (CG-52301) USCG Type F MLB
Laser cut kit from Barracuda RC Boats, N Carolina, USA. Baltic birch plywood false keel, ribs/frames, hull sheathing, deck and cabins. No formal plans; I was able to source a handful of B&W archival photos from the USCG website. Fortunately I was able to procure a motherload of archival photos and a few hard to read layout drawings from Mr. Timothy Dring, LCDR, USN (Ret.). He is co-author of "American Coastal Rescue Craft", which is the "bible" if you will, of such. I do sometimes thank the internet. I am certain that without his assistance, my efforts on this wouldn't have been as enjoyable.
The kit was also void of fittings, which I was aware of prior to purchase, so I invested in a 3D printer. That I've used to a limited degree, due to searching for parts in the correct file format is mind-numbing! I have globally sourced fittings; USA, UK, ASIA. As a matter of fact, the searchlights I got from this Model Boat Shop were 3D printed, and I was able to fit 5mm LEDs into them.
I'd like to get a couple more and put some superbright 12v LED drone lamps
in them for use on my 35" towboat. Many deck fittings are handmade when possible, the cleats and fairleads are from Cornwall Boats, UK. (Very reasonable & diverse source, if you didn't already know.)
I try to keep wood natural when detail allows it, as I never have enjoyed painting over natural grain. Her decks are covered with 1/16" scribed basswood sheathing from earthandtree.com, which is normally used for wainscoting dollhouse walls. All my boats that have wood decks are covered with scribed sheathing; I feel it makes 'em look "sexy". Believe it or not, the idea for wainscoting came from finding 3/16" at Hobby Lobby's
dollhouse department. A couple of feet x 3.5" was about $16, so I found a less expensive source that also had more selections (earthandtree.com)
The rail stanchions are 3/16" square dowels with 2 corners rounded over on the Dremel router table. Leaving their base square, I fit a square peg into a round hole with no glue to facilitate removal, and also for ease of replacing broken ones, which is inevitable. The rail is 1/16" brass rod that also is readily removable. The stern rail is stationary on the lower half, and the chain & wire stanchions are removable for towing ops.
The deck coamings and knuckle are African mahogany strips, other mahogany accents came from leftovers of a prior build. I also try on all my boats, to incorporate vintage leftover scribed sheathing salvaged from my late Father's builds, so I know he's got a part in my builds. Note-the raised deck section between the aft ladder trunk and towing bit is actually a laminated deckhouse he made for the Frigate Essex. Unfortunately, he was unable to build that kit due to Alzheimer's disease in his latter years.
(I blame that mostly on the hazardous fumes from the airplane "dope" & glue he used when building
s in the 60s & 70s.) I use polyurethane instead of resin due to COPD, 37 yrs of smoking, I quit 2.5 yrs ago.
The driveline consists of: 775 Johnson DC main (3500 RPM@12V), Harbor Models 4mm x 14" shaft w/brass stuffing box, Raboesch 75mm 5-blade brass wheel (not OEM), 5mm U-joint couplers, Dimart 320A fan-cooled ESC.
Handmade wooden teardrop rudder on a 3/8" sternpost, 1/4" tiller arm steered by a Halcion sail winch servo and cable system. Flysky 6 channel.
The nav lights and other illumination are Lighthouse 9v LEDs, also a GoolRC Receiver controlled flashing blue Law Enforcement light.
Obviously, I put the cart before the horse and completed the topsides and below deck before finishing the outer hull, but the Wx and season change dictated such. Can't wait for Spring!
2 years ago by circle43nautical
oakgarth ,doug the tug and a small seaport tug
BRAVO ZULU! I also love the test tank, I'm investing in a 12 x 6'er next spring. My latest builds are getting too big for the tub!
It's great that you get your kids involved; I feel that RC is by far the best
entertainment: Helos, planes, trains, autos & especially BOATS!
Heck with the video games I say!
My gr'daughter loves learning to fly the helo or me chasing her around with it. My goal is to get good enough to land on the tiny flight deck of my 1:48
USCG 210' Cutter while underway, without getting wet, of course.
HAVE A SAFE RC BOATING DAY!
2 years ago by circle43nautical
WOW! BRAVO ZULU! That's really cool that you gave her life. I have built static kits most of my life, but in 89, I built my 1st RC USCG MLB. I still love statics, but watching a boat (or plane) that I've built, actually perform like the actual craft is wonderful.
2 years ago by circle43nautical
Sea Queen built by Robert Peberdy
BRAVO ZULU! I CAN RELATE, MY LATE FATHER BUILT RC AIRCRAFT INB THE 60S & 70S. HiS BUDDIES COMMISSIONED HiM TO BUILD THEIR KITS BECAUSE HE HAD A GREAT HABIT OF OVERBUILDING. IF THEY MISSED THE LANDING, THE PLANES WOULD LIVE TO FLY AGAIN! MY DAD WASN'T A GOOD PILOT, SO HE HAD OTHERS FLY HiS AIRPLANES. I BUILD MY BOATS IN SIMILAR FASHION. OVERBUILD!
2 years ago by circle43nautical
46'' Firefloat What Motor/Battery
HI JJ. Your question about a safety bag, Damaged / overcharged lipo's can catch fire, think of the Boeing scandal that grounded the fleet last year. Charging in a safety bag is advised the bag is fire retardant material, which will contain any problem.
Your remarks about the boat not coming onto the plane is down to the weight of the battery, my fireboat started with 7.2v NimH packs 1 for each motor, Graupner 700bb's, good cruise but not quick, but short run time, 10mins. I have re-wired to allow 3s lipo's, but not had chance to test it yet, but should go like stink.
With a fast hull, weight is important, 4 x lipo packs, 1kg, half the weight and possibly 6 times the power delivery.
In your first post you mention 600 motors on 6volts, they are probably rated at 8.4volts, same as my 700's hence the lack of performance, also the battery, at 12ah it should last about 30mins, was it fully charged??? and is it showing at least 6volts, ie not got a duff cell???
Canabus, in his post described an ideal set up with brushless motors, 1600 watts is just over 2 hp, 750 per horsepower so you can see the difference in performance with different motors and battery set up's
3 years ago by jarvo
that lead acid is way too big and heavy. I Remember going on hols as a kid, car was loaded up, all family, roofrack, deck chairs, tent and so on, and Dads old Moggie Traveller would barely climb the Welsh hills! Same here, its just dead weight, ideal for a tug etc, no speed required, and ballast needed. This boat wasn't any slouch in its day, As Havelock says, it was originally built as a ic powered model so could stand being heavy.
To achieve balance, its a matter of moving things around, not adding, so just move things forward, you will be surprised how the weight increases once you start adding Deck clutter, fittings and so on. Lightweight, is good.
Your comment, stood up in the water at half throttle isn't going fast, its just bad weight displacement causing the bow tyo be too high. That setup would never have been that fast, the motor/battery combo will never cause a heavy ply boat to be going that fast its standing on end
Couple of things to consider. Your nimhs, how many times have these been cycled, and what sort of charger are you using? A reasonable charger will give the information, if I know what you are using, Ill advise accordingly as you might not be getting the best from these batteries
what prop are you on
Think of an
(if you fly them its easier) if the cog is too far back, the nose is pitching up, and its almost impossible to control, it almost porpoises in the air, and is very bad. COG is vital on a
, nose heavy is better, only because its more controllable. COG is equally important with a boat, but harder to see the implications, the hull will give us false info, such as if the bow is up its on the plane, no, not necessarily, its not planing due to speed, its just out of balance. Shifting the weight radically will let you see this, sorry for the ramble, Wish you where closer to me I would love to help hands on👍
Ive tried to find a suitable video of my Huntman to display what I'm rambling on about. This video is poor quality, but it displays that boat moving very fast (25mph with on board data logger) but look how flat it is, its planning, as the forward 1/3 of the hull is out of the water, but its not standing on its tail, this is because its balanced. You boat is pretty similar in design to this so whilst you wont want to go this fast, the picture should look the same. This Huntsman weighs 6kg with batteries (lipos, you will NEVER get a nimh or lead acid to do this) and is 4 foot long, so quite a heavy old girl first constructed as an IC model in the early 70's.
and here is a picture of my 3 foot aerokits fireboat, bow up, is it planing, no, its way out of balance, it wasnt actaully going that fast
Hope that helps
3 years ago by pmdevlin
RAF rescue launch shape
Hi Mick and Mark, (Sorry but that sounds like a comedy duo😉)
Apparently before the intervention of Scott-Paine (of Supermarine / Schneider Trophy fame and founder of British Power Boat company), and T.E. Lawrence (of Lawrence of Arabia fame!) who designed and developed the first HSLs, these little 40 foot STs had a secondary role as emergency boats. Even though they were not very fast, ca 20 knots max.
Lawrence witnessed a seaplane crash in the Solent while serving as an Aircraftman at the RAF Seaplane base. He saw how the ST took so long to reach the plane that it sank before they got there and several crew members drowned. He started lobbying his RAF Commanders to obtain faster launches as dedicated rescue boats. When Scott-Paine also proposed fast rescue launches the RAF suggested Lawrence as co developer and tester. Sadly Lawrence did not live to see the final version, having died in a motorbike crash in 1936.
You live and learn! Cheers Doug 😎
3 years ago by RNinMunich
OK. So it's 4" smaller than the Sea Scout I am currently renovating and upgrading from a 50ies Taycol motor to brushless! So keep the 'stuf' lightweight.
When I asked the same question for the Sea Scout a few months ago I got the following advice from Canabus, who seems to have considerable experience in this field 👍
"All from Hobbyking.
Motor propdrive V2 2830- 1000kv 370watts 3.175mm shaft(9190000328-0)3S or 4S lipo battery.
ESC 30A car(HK-30A)( XT60 connectors required), program card (HKPROG-CARD)can be used on the larger ones in the series.
Lipo battery Turnigy 1000mah 3S 30C (T1000.3s.20) 89grams 75 x 33 x 19mm or a Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C (T1500.3S.25) 113 grams 80 x 34 x 25 mm both have XT60 connectors.
Prop about a 2 blade 30mm 1.4 pitch"
I actually opted for a 3 blade prop and a 3S 3000mAh I already had, but bought the ESC and motor recommended and am now fitting them cos it made sense, was not expensive and came pretty quick - make sure it comes from the UK or EU warehouse to avoid possible import tax from Hong Kong or USA !!!
This would be more than adequate to give your boat some Oomph! it needs more than my cabin Cruiser!
For the RC buy a complete set already matched and 'bound' so you have the minimum of fiddling about as a rookie😉
I can thoroughly recommend the Turnigy HT6, AKA TGY-I6 , ~US$45 also from Hobby King. in a couple of hours one evening I could programme two models into it and get it to do what I wanted instead of what the factory thought we would want for plane or chopper!
Instructions are quite clear, logical and lead you through step by step. it comes with a 68 page manual! But much you can skip if you don't intend to go flying with your boat!
Attached is a pic from my manual with German branding (REELY)! But it's the same beast as the TGY-I6, second pic!!
The whole package should cost around a 100quid and you're RTR!
The RC set has 6 channels so you have lots of scope later for special functions; fire monitors, lights, horn, motor noise etc etc 👍
By the way; the motor comes with 3.5mm bullet connectors, and of course I only had 4mm 'other halves' but you can also get connectors, loose or fitted to cables and adapters at Hobby King.
(You can solder them on with your 4lb hatchet!!!)
Hope this helps,
Cheers Doug 😎
PS don't forget a suitable coupling to match the 3.17mm motor shaft to your prop shaft (whatever that is, 4mm?)
3 years ago by RNinMunich
Sea Queen refurbishment
I have always embraced new technology and agree some of the older skillsets are fast disappearing as it is now possible to design and build almost anything from an electronic gizmo.
I embrace these new techniques and have delved into 3d CAD and printers and can now make most of the bits I need.
I started like many born just after the war with plastic kits followed by balsa and tissue planes, model trains, cars, boats then into electronics and early RC.
I get great pleasure from the building either scratch or kit but I do worry that many prefer to just buy the finished product.
I still have my IC engines and planes from my flying days but for all but the fast racers, brushless more than meets the power requirements for our scale models, but I don't deny or object to the many who still enjoy IC and have access to permitted venues.
Battery power has improved over the years and Lithium batteries are capable of delivering massive power at little weight. Provided they are handled and treated correctly they are safe to use but rather like fireworks incorrect handling can be unpredictable and dangerous.
This refurbishment really goes back to basics and will result in a model being restored and enjoyed for many years and Colin has certainly shown us some new techniques.
I doubt if some of the off the shelf newer models will survive quite so long.
3 years ago by Dave M
Yes,I remember a gannet powered boat,used to gather quite a crowd.I left the area in 69 but sailed at lindow on visits back on the early 70s,by then I was on RCS reeds in an O and R powered sea queen and remember a chap sailing a large "flattie" powered by a honda motorcycle starter motor,it was amazing to see it floating "dead" in the water and then getting on "the plane" in less than a second!.
3 years ago by philpjuk
The Big Heavy Model Boat Launching Blues
Fully set up, I'm guessing Constellation weights between 100 and 110 pounds (I haven't had the opportunity the get an accurate measurement yet). Taking her to events with pools requires lifting her into the pool. I haven't figured out a way to do that easily, or safely, or more importantly, alone. I built her to sail in open water, so the 2 or three times I have to ask for help at a pool isn't a big deal.
I'm sure that most of the time I'll be launching her at a ramp or shoreline, and that I'll need to move her from the parking area to the shoreline, however far that may be. There's times I may be faced with a bulkhead, but like the pool, there's no easy fix for that with a model this size.
My first plan was a hand-truck set-up like the picture of my friend Ray from RCGroups, and his SC&H model of Surprise, a very similarly sized model to mine. The hand-truck is plastic and the cradle is wood, and you can see it's pretty bulky to hold a 100 pound model. Ray said his issue with it was it floated. When launching he had to push it down to get the model clear, and when retrieving he had to hold on to it or it would fall over, while trying get hold of a big model with spars sticking out everywhere. if the water was choppy or boaters were making wakes, it was that much more difficult. He also didn't like that he had to go into knee-deep water, at least.
Dan, also from RCGroups, and the fellow that developed the sliding-brace-winch, has an SC&H brig he's modeled as the US brig Syren. it also came with the same hand-truck Ray's Surprise did. Dan wasn't all that enamored with it either. He pointed out how when you lean it back to move the model, it put you in among the rigging risking damage or even injury. Dan altered his hand-truck into a cart and has not looked back.
In my mind, it's a boat. I have a 16 foot sailboat, and to move it, and launch it, I use a boat-trailer, so it would make sense to make a boat-trailer for the model.
I scribbled an idea on paper, but then turned to some old 3D modeling software so I could see it better. My model has a 4 foot long ballast tube bolted to the keel. So I figured a U shaped channel to cradle that tube and support the model would be the basis of the cart. While Dan's cart has worked great for him, I didn't care for his 3-wheeled arrangement. Like an actual boat trailer, I opted for a single axle right under the model. I figured this would be more easily maneuvered and handle terrain a little better. I figured on making the cart from angle steel I dould bolt together. I over-designed the thing a bit, drawing a framework that would cradle the model that the more I looked at, the less I thought I needed. Going back to my real boat trailer, it just had center support and a pair of carpet cover skids (bunkers) to hold the boat up-right.
Simple is always the best approach - and I had just the right material to build this cart from - a steel bed-frame. This L-angled steel had the strength to easily carry the model while using a minimum of material, and it certainly wasn't going to float! Two girders would form a U shaped channel to cradle the ballast tube. I figured a rod axle would need support or it could bend with a 100 pound model bouncing on it, a third angle would be set across for the axle. A couple of upright posts with padding would hold the model upright. Nearly all the weight of the model rests in the channel, so there's not a lot of strain on the uprights.
I didn't have a cutting wheel so tried cutting the bed frame with a reciprocating saw. Bed frame steel is hard, it ate both blades, and two more I bought before finally getting the three main pieces cut, though I had no trouble drilling it.
I used the u-bolt portion of a set of wire-clamps to hold the axle. A bit of flat steel to brace the axle so it wouldn't try to twist. it's all held together with nuts and bolts. I wanted short pieces of steel for and aft to hold the loose ends of the channel, but I wasn't gonna try to cut that stuff again, so I just used some scrap 2x4.
To hold the handle I tried mounting a wood block with a hole forward, but then I remembered I had a flag-pole mount from when I replaced a rotten post on the porch. it took some searching, but I found it and screwed it on.
The wheels are shopping cart wheels bought new from Ace Hardware online for about $5 each. I looked into inflatable wheels to give a softer ride, but they were too expensive for me. I watch the local thrift shops though, and if something shows up with nice wheels, I'll grab it.
A fender washer goes on the axle first, so the wheel doesn't rub against the axle support; then the wheel, another washer, and a hitch-pin holds it all on. I can pull the hitch pins and remove the wheels making it easier to stow the cart.
The uprights are simple 3/4" pine with some pipe insulation for padding (as opposed to tennis balls in the 3D model). They're bolted to the axle support, but I want to alter that a little so they can be folded in to make the cart flatter for transport.
The handle is an old wood closet pole I've had for a long time. A bit too old it would turn out, but that's a later story. I painted it white for visibility as it also serves as a guard to protect the model's bowsprit from cell-phone wielding idiots that seem to be the most common form of life on this planet now.
I painted the cart blue, because it wasn't black, white, or red; the other colors I had.
Unfortunately, I wasn't ready in time to the museum event, and didn't go, but I wanted to sail the model before it got cold, and see if this thing worked.
3 years ago by Jerry Todd
That's exactly how my HMS Hotspur destroyer started! 👍
Free running with two rattly Mabuchis and a flat 4.5V dry cell battery!
Granny and Grandad took pity and bought me a 6V 'Lantern' battery!
The Sea Scout my Dad built (which I'm now renovating) was very modern .. Taycol Target and 6V wet accumulator! And yes, that kit cost 35 bob, substantial chunk of a week's wages! Oh happy days .. Or ... !?
Both had to wait another 20 years until I could afford RC, an Irvine / Sanwa Conquest FM6, sitting on my desk now (wonder where the antenna went?), it still works! 35Mhz!! Well what did I know?? 🤔
Anyway, my excuse is I originally bought it for the little Wren biplane I had built for my daughter, a German kit called Zaunkönig in German - literally 'Fence King'.
Still have the plane, thinking of converting it from glow-plug to brushless. Micro servos and LiPos already purchased 😉
DHL just promised me that tomorrow the rest of the bits for the Sea Scout refit will arrive, including Royal Blue paint. 😊
So much to do - so little time 🤔
Happy building and happier sailing. Cheers Doug 😎
3 years ago by RNinMunich
3 Footer on a very rare outing
"pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions"
Yes it is, its also difficult when you didnt actually build the boat, it was originally built (as prev stated) circa 1962 by my uncle, with IC engine, and a straight running rudder, as he couldnt afford full rc gear back then. Im thinking Martin you have watched the video, and saw that the boats did plane, be it 30 knots or 300 knots, they planed, scale speed or not.
I also own a four footer which handles beautifully, and is capable of well over scale speed, but speed is only relative to the position of the throttle stick, we all build to our own required specifications, and our own take on the original, with some modellers license😊 I would rather have power in reserve, than not enough power.
The problem with my smaller 3 footer is at the time my lack of experience, resulting in a heavy boat, Now I own some fast scale boats, I dont need the performance from the 3 footer, so it can be rebuilt using a lighter motor, lighter power packs, and get rid of some of the unecessary weight to make it sit better in the water, and look better at slower speeds
work in progress, as it hardly gets used, its not high on my to do list😡
thanks for the weight Dave, I remember that your 3 footer performs very nice, and is light. Ill weigh mine this week, its buried deep in the man shed, thanks also rob, but its the smaller 3 foot weight I was after👍
3 years ago by pmdevlin
some electronics to be used.
5400mah 30c lipoly battery
Rx - from my Taranis 9x
i'm not sure if i have the right components. i asked guidance from a friend who have background in
. any comments from the members who will view this thread is highly appreciated. honestly i'm limited to what is available here locally and haven't tried ordering from abroad. maybe that will be later. based on my personal research, i don't need an ESC for this project, just a UBEC. my friend suggested a 10amps UBEC but i can't find it here locally.
i'm also considering on purchasing a dragonlink UHF or EZUHF to switch from 2.4 to 433 to extend the range. any comment on this? any help/advice will be greatly appreciated. thanks guys
3 years ago by analyst
the real 93 and 94 Fireboat together
great video, I could watch it over and over, for the eagle eyed amongst us, notice no RAF roundel on the pennant, as it was still in trials, hence crew not in an RAF uniform, they where probably Vosper employees. Also the pennant flying under the ensign was blue/white signifying vessel may deviate from true course being under test.
All of the pictures etc bouncing around are pre RAF handover, if you look real close the clues are there!😎
I'm watching these over, I have a plan for an engine sound unit coming along, just got to finish an
project that Stephen has helped with, that's for another discussion!
3 years ago by pmdevlin
raf crash tender
Hi Dave, good to hear from you (sorry to hijack thread). 4 footer came out two years ago, Huntsman once in 2016, its over 3 years since the 3 footer got wet! Orca once in 2016. I did build the PCF which I really liked, but it went immediately as too many people messaged saying they wanted it, so it funded some
gear, which I am really into now. I sold a load of bits and bobs at the Blackpool show a few months ago, didn't renew with St Helens in 2015, or 2016, and wont this year.
However.... Robs excellent blog has got me interested again, and Stephen kindly did a bespoke 3 d printing project on something rc related, info and pics to follow when its finished!
Back on track...
George, I'm going to advise only things I have done, or used, I'm not one to say do this, or that, but actually I have not done it myself. No doubt others will disagree, but this is my opinion only.
Best performance in terms of speed is brushless, and lipo. Forget fear of fire and explosions, this only happens with abuse, and they are the common use with
s, helicopters, cars, its only boats that are really stuck in the dark ages with technology that have this big fear of brushless systems and lipos! However, to get initially set up, they do take more understanding and initial cash outlay, as you need a specific charger for one, and you do need to understand what you are doing.
Brushless motors will unlease the power far more than brushed, and are usually lighter.
This motor is an example, there are much cheaper ones with similar specs, but I have used this motor in various applications, the most similar to your boat being my large Huntsman, with this motor on 6 cells lipo I achieved 25mph, but speed might not be what you want. So if you have the fast engine in your car, say a v12 Ferrari, if you run it on cheap fuel, it wont perform, same here, nicads and nimhs batteries are easy to maintain, you can drain them dead flat, but will give cheap fuel performance, like a bath tap trickling when the shower is on at the same time, and as they are dying technology, are expensive for what they are. Lipo is like turning up both bath taps and the force floods out, but now the tank will empty quicker, so you have less run time 😊
If brushless, its a specific speed controller,
and you pay extra for reversing (other rc disciplines don't need reverse) and a marine esc might need to be water cooled, however, decent brushed motor speed controllers are not exactly cheap, so now you know why budget is important to give advice, you could be spending £100 here just to get up and running.
Look at my 4 foot fireboat build blog, as its twin screw (personally a boat this size is better twin screw) you can get by with cheaper motors, mine where £30 the pair, I use lipo for all my boats, so I have the batteries, and are familiar with using them, the speed controllers where about £40 the pair, and if I was buying batts then probably another £40, so it all adds up!
Single screw, less batteries. You could power with nimhs, and it might be acceptable ,performance for you.
If your location is Ellesmere Port, have a Sunday morning drive to Hoylake, then New Brighton, and maybe take in St Helens Liverpool, and Runcorn, see boats in action, see what sort of performance suits you, and rethink the budget, what do you want to spend? Then you need the transmitter and receiver (if you don't already have these) the fittings (see Robs build blog) a prop shaft, and a suitable propeller
I am North Wirral, you are more than welcome to come and have a chat and see some boats, but unfortunately I'm deep into another rc project for the next few weeks, once that is done I can share some time, if you want! Don't worry, I'm not all about speed, I can do brushed motors and nimhs and get a result,
Any questions, just ask, Paul
PS... Looks like a nice clean boat you have there😉
3 years ago by pmdevlin
mrrcsound (although USA) does a number of sound units that carry the actual footage of the real thing. I have had two in
s. He has a boat one, but will accommodate customer requests. Go on rcgroups.com look under vendors and shoot Andrew a pm. He is a real nice guy, and wont rip you off with USA postage 😊
4 years ago by pmdevlin
USA model boat clubs ?
I recently acquired a beautiful large (50 inch) wooden English fast ccabin cruiser molde and I am in the process of acquiring a 34 inch model of a 1936 rc equiped hydroplane
I am very familiar with the vintage model sailboat otganizations in England, USA, france, etc
I wonder if there is a model boat club associated with wooden powerboats on the east coast of the USA
any hlp would be appreciated
Concord NH USA
4 years ago by davet
46'' RAF CRASH TENDER
Hi Joe, just a few possibilities, is the tender completed? if not I would go for twin shafts with brushless motors, the hull where the shafts will go through would need reinforcing with 1/8 ply between the bulkheads to give the shafts some firm base to glue to and stop any distortion and fracturing of the hull floor. The motors I would suggest a pair of 30 / 40 size, most motors are intended for plane use so are often referred to in the engine size .30 ci, or .40ci, sound complicated but its not. As for radio gear, how far do you want to go!!! cheap bottom end gear starts at around £30 plus servos and speed controllers, as this is your first model, are you likely to build more???? if so I would go for higher speck gear, my choice is Futaba, but it is expensive, you are going to get lots of suggestions, have a look at the web sites and then buy what you fancy, (dont buy 2 or 3 channel, get a minimum of 6, this will allow for more functions as your modeling progresses) This is bound to though up loads more questions for you, dont be afraid to ask, mistakes can be expensive!!!!
4 years ago by jarvo
my Veron Huntsman28 after a re-vamp
My boats have been neglected over the last year or so as my interests have moved over to
s, but one boat in the collection always makes me smile, my Veron Huntsman 28 that was rescued from ebay several years ago.
It now has had a couple of make overs, its single screw, with a scorpion outrunner, castle creations esc, and runs on 2 x 3 5000mah lipos through a gear drive. Its real fun, but, after running it early this year, it was apparent its not had much love, so I decided to tidy it up and make it pretty again. I stumbled upon a company based in Rainford near St Helens who has a paint process that mimics chrome, so after some negotiating, I persuaded the company director to take on chroming my parts. 👍
Few days ago it was all refitted, and it had a run out, 25mph on a gps, and dazzling in the sunlight, just a shame its only a 15 minute flat out hold tight experience!
4 years ago by pmdevlin
Thanks for your good advice. I have a friend who's into
s and will ask about his experiences.
I'm familiar with gas as used in auto-body but it's too course. Didn't know about any finer.
This is where I'm at now. I used poly on the inside.
4 years ago by RedRider
I have made a start on my retirement stach a Wavemaster 25 while I a good ad building and there's nothing I like more than escaping in to my workshop.
Now I do not know a great lot about electrics and RC.
I have a planet T transmitter and recover,brushless motor.help
4 years ago by Denzel2010
it all looks a bit "busy" with wires all together, I think Dave is on the money, separate the wires.
What are all the connections to the receiver? do you have a separate power supply to the receiver, I cant quite make it out. in the second video, the esc lights go out altogether, and the receiver light starts to flash, this means the receiver has lost contact with the transmitter, if so, this eliminates the esc, when the signal is back, the esc then re-arms. The frysky tx is used by plane and helI boys, so there must be a range test somewhere in the programming, I would try that out of the water, then if the problem happens you eliminate the water level for the receiver aerial. if you cant find the range test, just keep walking away operating something you can see, like the rudder, to a distance that would be acceptable.
Back to the connections in the receiver, something there could be causing a short. A few weeks ago, I lost signal with my Huntsman, momentarily no control, its fast, so it was very scary! Luckily I was able to stop it. its then detective work, the rx light was out, but the failsafe had not kicked in stopping the throttle. Imagine this was a
, it would now be a flyaway. After disconnecting all leads to the rx, reconnecting one at a time, and bench testing, once the rudder servo was connected and operated several times, the rx went off, the rudder servo was causing a short circuit and was the culprit
I would sort this out of the lake, otherwise its waiting for it to drift in, or worse, as I experienced, loss of control.
Also, maybe not connected, but the lights on the esc signify throttle range, so full throttle and you should see the green light, full reverse, red light, you videos do not show this, perhaps you didn't use the throttle range in the test.
any questions, juts ask!
4 years ago by pmdevlin
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