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    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the β€˜Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a β€˜Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately Β£2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of Β£48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more β€˜hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as β€˜strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC,
    receiver
    , rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone β€˜off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    10 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    LED Lighting tip
    Hi Guys, I have a little tip for powering some LED lighting. When you use the BEC from the ESC it will free up the socket that the battery would of used. So if you use a
    receiver
    connector and connect some LED's to the red and black pins You have a low voltage power supply. I have used this to power the navigation lights on several models,also it indicates when the boat is switched on.
    4 months ago by Martin555
    Response
    Enclosing the controls.
    Hi Rob, unless I am mistaken, one of the
    receiver
    antennas appears to be sited in amongst the ESC wiring. if so this is not a good idea, ideally at least 2.5cm should separate the antenna from anything conductive. Alan
    6 months ago by ukengineman
    Blog
    Enclosing the controls.
    The original boat had a wide and deep seat at the back of the well deck and this is an ideal place to conceal the fuse, ESC and
    receiver
    . I started by setting out the components and marking an area sufficiently big enough to accommodate them all with room for the associated wiring and plumbing (water cooling for the ESC). A framework of obeche strip was formed on the floor and sides in such a way that the top and front panels of the cover would be flush with the frame, the side frames were also built out so that the cover would be narrow enough to clear the coamings on the sides of the well deck. The rear panels and floor of the enclosure are 1.5mm obeche panels, the rear one with cut-outs for the wiring to come through, both were given a coat of Teak stain before being glued in place. The cover β€˜seat’ was made from a framework of obeche strip and panels with bracing pieces at each end to add rigidity and it fits neatly into the frame, some finishing detail was also added to this. This was also given a first coat of Teak stain. The cover will be held in place with small neodymium magnets.
    6 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    Thanks Tom. I think I can choose between five items for each of channel 5 to 9. Two I believe, Gear and one of the others, are controlled by on/off switches on the Tx. The others are routed via potentiometers. There is, apparently, a way of changing one of these choices to be operated by a third switch using `mix` settings but I have no idea as to how. I will try to get my LED`s working on the two switches that are available through the Turnigy rc switches I have wired to channels 5 and 6 on the
    receiver
    . I will post how I get on.😊
    6 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    Hi, As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this. Especially .. this type is mainly designed for aircraft control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship model. This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified servo. in the base allows only proportional control of servos or ESC. There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT but these are far more expensive... The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for engine control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the rudder. there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-. channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions. These channels again allow only proportional control. Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6 settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this) It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the
    receiver
    !!) before you all plug in the model. I hope it helped you a little bit.. Tom
    7 months ago by tomarack
    Forum
    receiver
    aerial
    You're talking about using one of these? https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/2-4Ghz-400mm-Extended-Aerial-Pair-P_RA2_4G_400.html or on ebay... https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Futaba-2-4ghz-400mm-Extended-RX-Aerial/1504309322 So long as these are the advised spec by the manufacturer, why worry about the impedance? You might be interested in this discussion I had a little while ago on the Single Channel site about replacing 2.4Ghz aerials - points Martin made include: "......I tested all my detachable 2.4 GHz antennas and found quite a wide range of frequencies they were best tuned for, ranging from about 2.1 to 2.6 GHz - but they all work fine and have pretty good SWRs at the 2.45 GHz point. What was more interesting was testing various antennae that I've received for various pieces of kit over the years that run at 433 MHz, 5.8 GHz and the GPS frequencies of 1.2 and 1.6 GHz. Many of these are just 2.4 GHz antennas - I even have one that is labelled 433 MHz, but is really a 2.4 GHz and quite useless at 433 MHz!......." ".....It is important to realize that all the coax cables we use (all relatively light and thin) are all quite lossy at 2.4 GHz, so you shouldn't make the non-transmitting (intact cable) part any longer than it needs to be. if you have a foot or two of coax feeding the active part of the antenna (the modified bit at the end) then you can easily lose half of the available signal....." http://mode-zero.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=389 I would also add that polarisation may become important when you have an aerial close to a horizontal reflective plane like a lake. I suspect that you might get a lot of the signal coming at you horizontally polarised, which a vertically mounted aerial won't like. For video output from a boat I've been using the circular polarised aerials that the drone operators use in an attempt to maintain signal at distance - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-4GHz-Circular-Polarized-clover-leaf-Antenna-set-with-short-connector-RP-SMA/253889968333?hash=item3b1d0578cd:g:YkEAAOSw5LZcZF3Y:rk:3:pf:0
    7 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    receiver
    aerial
    The modern digital radio control Tx/Rx aerial is attached directly to the device. I assume, as normally is, that the Tx/Rx connection impedance is 50 ohms. A quarter-wave vertical aerial is also 50 ohms. Can one extend the aerial using 50 ohm co-axial cable so as to leave Tx/Tx in hull and place aerial on top of a mast?
    7 months ago by SpiderBruce
    Forum
    receiver
    aerial
    Hi there, I presume that you are referring to 2.4ghz radio system. I have various models using 2.4ghz and have not had to extend the reciever aerial on any of them. Most only have about 50mm above the deck and I've been in full control up to 300 mtrs (28 acre lake) with the older 27mhz. Or 40mhz I have to have a fully extended aerial to get a good reception at distance. Hope that this will help you. Cheers Colin.
    7 months ago by Colin H
    Response
    HMS Bustler
    hi ya Marky, judging by your building skills - it wont take you much to move right over to radio controlling a model - if you have the skill to master building, you have the skills to master radio control. Go for it :-) heres an idea, look on some of the websites who sell radio gear and buy yourself a reasonably priced 2.4 handset with the
    receiver
    then you can purchase a couple of servos to plug into the
    receiver
    along with a battery to power it all and then have a play around and find exactly what it does, and then programme if needs be. Golden rule, 27MHz 40 MHz &2.4 can be used on the land and on water only. 2.4 along with 35 MHz and be used for aircraft only. So 2.4 is the only one interchangeable between land and air. Basic rules for buying a transmitter in the UK anyway. amendment ,27MHz can also be used for aircraftπŸ‘ john
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Hi just a thought the VIPER 25 AMP has a BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit ) built into it and if you connect a power supply to your
    receiver
    as well to power from the motor battery all manner of thing can go wrong John
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    hi ya, I have just been reading up on your transmitter and it looks as though your transmitter was originally made for cars but it doesn't make any difference. Apparentlyit is a 2 channel transmitter which is supplied with a 3 channel
    receiver
    . Therefore when you plug the speed controller into channel 3, it isn't going to work. So the way you originally had it set up is the only way to get it working unless you go for a different transmitter. What is the range of these transmitters? because I have one myself which is a Planet 2.4 Advance T5 and its got an extremely short range because its called a park flyer - I am wondering if yours will be the same just for curiosity. Best of luck. John
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    hi ya J that looks like an Mtroniks speed controller in the pic - does this one have the button on that you press to set it up? because I know what you would need to do is set your trim in the neutral position for the throttle and then go through the procedure of switching on the transmitter and then the
    receiver
    and then pressing the button on the speed controller so it recognises where neutral is. I believe some of these Mtroniks are something like 100% rpm forward and something like 75% rpm in reverse. if this idea doesn't work you could always swap the wires over on the motor. (NOT ON THE BATTERY) πŸ€“ Chinee smokey come out of speed controller if you do dat 😲 John
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Blog
    Painting
    I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and
    receiver
    had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the rudders. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.πŸ€“ The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😀 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    I have just spent a couple of mins downloading and reading through the manual for your transmitter, Colin and I see you have limited mixing similar to the old Futaba 6A models. if it were me (going back to your original question) I would use this transmitter with a new
    receiver
    and fit these into your model and use tank steering as in the 4th diagram on that little image I put on of the electrical layouts. Very simple and straightforward. I think its channel 2 on your right hand stick used for rudder.
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Its really quite simple modern radio systems are computerised so you can do all the mixing you want from the transmitter. No need to buy mixers for the
    receiver
    end. Setting things up the first time you do it is confusing I agree but once you have a grip on things it becomes more simple. The good thing about using a modern system is that you can change things on the fly and even have different mixes selectable on the same model and change while your sailing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g there is a video so you can see what I am talking about.
    7 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    hi there Colin - to stop confusion and people suggesting things that are totally 'confusing' 😊 1. What type of 2.4 transmitter do you have, what make and how many channels. 2. Can you put a photograph of your rudder servo in the model and the actual plug that fits into the
    receiver
    . This servo may not be compatible with what you are trying to do.
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Turnigy 9x
    I have just started using a Turnigy 9x Transmitter with 8 channel and 10 channel
    receiver
    s. (I did ask why they didn't make a 9ch Rx but got no satisfactory explanation). I have found the kit to be very good value for money but each time I select a different model, I find I have to re-bind the
    receiver
    . Not a big problem, but inconvenient. Is anyone else having the same problem? Thanks Steve
    2 years ago by cormorant
    Forum
    Rx-tx confusion
    did a quick on e-bay for spectrum dx6i
    receiver
    and prices start from Β£6.39 with free p+p worth a try ???
    8 months ago by jacko
    Forum
    Rx-tx confusion
    Lordgord, I understand the confusion as there is almost too much infor nation on the web, much of it is mis-leading. I have been using this technology for 12 years now and have owned and used at least 8 Spektrum
    receiver
    s. Here's my take: 1. You need a DSM2 or DSMX Transmitter, that simple. 2. My first photo shows a Spektrum AR7000 RX in my tugboat. it's a nice RX, IS 7 channel with an addition satellite received. it's overkill for a boat that just needs a couple of channels and doesn't fall to earth in a failure. Originally purchased for an RC Airplane, it's pricey at $90 to $100 USD. OUCH. 3. Ti try the less expensive RX's available no, first I tried OrangeRX and bought 3, none of which ever worked, a problem with China's lack of quality control. 4. Recently p, I needed two more RXs for boat builds and read that LemonRX was doing pretty good. Last two photos are of the Lemon, model LM0034. They work great and bind very easy, best of all they are $16 USD ! www.lemon-rx.com 5. One caveat with the lemon, they come just as shown in photo....no documentation. You need to look up on the internet which port is which and how to bind. Took me about 10 minute, bu is something to consider if this is your first hookup. Knowing which set of prongs go to what channel is critical. Personally, in the future, I am going to buy more Lemons... Hope this helps, Ask any question that you may have, we are all hear to help each other. Cheers, Joe
    8 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Rx-tx confusion
    Google is probably your friend here. You DO need compatible
    receiver
    s - here is the first discussion I found when googling "spectrum dx6i compatible
    receiver
    ".... https://forum.flitetest.com/index.php?threads/
    receiver
    -for-spektrum-dx6i-transmitter.31936/
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    Have just made a prototype of a fan forced smoker which seems to be working well (despite breaking the heater coil by moving it while hot, - had it apart, broke wire, screw and washer repair, not quite as hot) I bought a couple of Heng Long smokers (for R/C tanks or cars) to play with, for $10 NZ each(or 5.3 Euros to you Northerners give or take a yen) from Bangood and just bought another from Ebay. There seem to be 2 different models, as one has a long coil with a lamp wick draped over it, which is sitting in the oil reservoir, the other has a small coil inside a piece of heat resistant woven tubing (as you might find insulating toaster/heater wiring etc) which acts as a wick and that also sits in cotton wool in the reservoir, (this seems to be the better of the two) Tip - don't fill the tank right up, only enough to soak the cotton, element should be just out of the oil. The wick loads the element. The better model seems to have a black top to the tank (also maybe either brown or black tank) and the other has a brown top and dirty brown tank. As with most of this stuff you won't know till you get it what it's going to be. What I did was remove the tank and cut off the pump tube just in front of the screw lugs (see black line in photo) then fitted the tank, and a 40x40x10 5v ESC fan (voltage controlled by a UBEC set to 5v on the jumpers) into a plastic electronics utility box from Jaycar (our local electronics and hobby store). I made up a double JST lead for the 2s 1800Mah Lipo and fired it up (using baby oil). it's pretty much silent and smokes well once it gets warmed up, ( starts smoking in about 5 seconds) You could control it (on/off volume) by either a remote on/off switch or perhaps a small cheap 10A brushed ESC. I would leave the fan running and control the element to avoid burning the element. The original pump tank inlet hole seems ok as is (approx 1.5mm) but you could enlarge it very slightly to get a better flow if you could find a better oil. At the electronics store they have proper smoke machine oil for $20 NZ per litre so I may have a look at that. The reason I went for the fan idea was that I found in std pump form, if I immersed a tube from the tank in water, it sucked water back into the tank. I was hoping it would pump smoke out of my HSL exhausts at water level alongside the cooling water but it would need a very light non return valve to do this. The fan seems to pump the smoke through 2mm ID silicone tube ok, so tubing of similar ID to the OD of the tank outlets should work well. These pumps in original form work pretty well for the price, and are cheap enough to keep a few for spare elements, the only thing is they are a bit noisy but in an 'engine sounding' way, (might add to the effect on a tug or work-boat though) What you have left after this mod is a very handy little geared motor with an eccentric output wheel which could be used for winches, radar and whirly bits of any description (see pic of motor leftover and original) To avoid burnout, these should be run on no more than a 2s (around 7.5v-(suggest 8v max with fan running) The other tank is going to work a lot better than this one but I'm not making a tug, just want a bit of exhaust smoke on start-up etc to go with the 2 sound units. Very cheap to make (around $25 NZ with pump, box, fan and UBEC all through Ebay, Aliexpress and Bangood (and local electronics store) if you wanted to run an ESC to control the smoke and you have no channels left to control it proportionally, you can always try using a second
    receiver
    bound to your TX, (if your TX will allow it,) power it and a brushed ESC (wired to the element) as normal and use the throttle channel to plug in your smoke control. This should work if you want more smoke as you accelerate or if you are using only 1 stick on a 2 stick TX you could use your 'elevator' stick pushed up (or a toggle switch if available) to start/stop the smoke (through the brushed ESC setup) . This setup weighs 100g (10g more than std) The quest for lots of smoke continues Will try to upload vid later and update progress.
    8 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    internet sales
    I have been reading about how the high street shops are suffering in regards to sales.I wish to plead guilty as i purchase most of my model boat kits and parts online ! The shop keepers have high rates and running costs etc when compared to some online retailers .I purchased online a 4 channel transmitter,
    receiver
    and 30amp esc from china for around Β£40 as this would cost double from a uk retailer its no wonder there are very few model shops left but as an Oap i look after the pennies.All the chinese parts are excellent and work well. I would prefer to buy local and enjoy a walk around a well stocked shop but difference in local retail prices and imported items is now too much.Model shops of my youth are sorely missed.
    9 months ago by keithtindley
    Blog
    Plumbing the water-cooling for the ESC
    The HobbyKing ESC I’m using has the facility for water cooling and as it will be in an enclosed location without any free ventilation it seems sensible to utilise this feature. To keep the water circuit as short as possible I will put the pickup just behind the propeller and the exhaust on the stern but as the boat has a bulkhead just in front of the stern skin I need to make an access hole through it to allow me to secure the nut on the stern skin. I made a hole through the bulkhead large enough to get a socket on the nut and reinforced the hole with a ply plate, similarly I reinforced the inside of the stern skin where the outlet passes through it. When I was happy that the arrangement worked and I could attach the hoses and securing clips easily I glued and pinned the stern skin to the hull. The water pickup is a standard one that is readily available but it’s supplied with overly large and ugly fixing nuts, the inside one is of no consequence but I thought that the outer one needed smartening up so I put it on a threaded rod and locked it in place with another nut and put that into the chuck of a drill and used a file to re-shape the nut to a pleasing taper….who needs a lathe......😜 I had to reduce the height of the inner keel former as the pickup tube is not long enough to get a good fixing with the internal nut, as the inner keel is balsa I fitted a ply reinforcing plate to spread the load. The last β€˜photo shows the location of the ESC, main battery fuse and
    receiver
    . The hoses will be secured to the ESC with spring clips throughout. I found that the silicone tube I use tends to kink rather easily if the radius of a bend is too small and I found it necessary to form a tight spring coil around the piece that loops the water back through the ESC to prevent this happening.
    9 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Smoke generator
    I have made a smoke generator using a piezo transducer and a P68s variable speed brush less fan controller from action electroncs. The transducers tend to be 24v dc and are relatively cheap (Β£2-Β£3 each). I am using S3 lipos so I only have 11.4 available but a very cheap variable output unit gives me 24v. The fan is connected in-between the
    receiver
    channel for the throttle and the speed controller. The fan speed increases with the throttle and follows the throttle speed regardless of direction. The net effect is quite pleasing for diesel exhaust simulation, with a steady stream when the stick is centralised and the fan just idling. On fwd/rev throttle movement you get an increasing amount of exhaust dependent on speed. I have this installed in my Forceful paddler with twin funnels. The effect is quite realistic but can be difficult to see. I am looking for a another transducer that will produce more vapour. in its present configuration it will run for around 3 hours before topping up is required.
    10 months ago by marlina2
    Forum
    RX500
    receiver
    or replacement
    Thanks for the info. Alex
    10 months ago by woody
    Forum
    RX500
    receiver
    or replacement
    What
    receiver
    can I use to replace an Airtronics #92124 RX500 ?
    10 months ago by woody
    Forum
    RX500
    receiver
    or replacement
    Hi Woody, any other 2.4Gig RX that is FHSS-1 compatible; Frequency Hopping Spread Spectrum. You should be able to get precise info from the distributor here Service@globalhobby.net www.globalhobby.com Or from Sanwa. Cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    All hooked up, nowt happens...
    first question which no one seems to have mentioned is :- did you have the transmitter switched on BEFORE you powered up the
    receiver
    / esc ? if not de power the
    receiver
    and try switching on the transmitter . Most of these systems have an interlock to prevent the motor running if there is no transmitter.
    10 months ago by Haverlock
    Blog
    Vintage style yacht designed by ''Vic Smeed''
    Any one interested in buying my Yacht ? ''Starlet'' Vintage style yacht designed by "Vic Smeed" all plywood construction, 11" beam x34" length, sail area 465 Sq inches. Complete with heavy duty sail arm large servo and rudder servo installed. Good sails although slightly marked and rigging. Install a
    receiver
    ready to sail.Β£135 Best if collected in person. Located in West Surrey.
    10 months ago by lhpen
    Forum
    Your ideas on how to stabilize a flat-bottomed freighter.
    you could consider using some of the modern tech and fitting active stabilizers there are a lot of cheap solid state gyros and if your
    receiver
    does not have enough free inputs and outputs an arduino mini could handle the logic.
    11 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    RC....mixers? And other unknowns..
    I recently tried 2 ESC(s) into one battery connection then into 2 channels of the radio. Received wisdom said that one of the red leads to the radio should be disconnected. This I tried and one ESC ceased to function. So to prevent unwanted feeding on the positive lead from one ESC to another I fitted a diode to each of the ESCs. if you were to do the same I think your setup would work. However if your TX has mixing capability then why not use that ability to mix rudder with the 2 outboard motors so you have the added steering of the 2 outer motors? Any how fit the diodes please this should prevent the ESCs damaging each other its a simple job https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20x-1N4007-rectifier-diodes-DO41-1A-1000V-not-4001-4002-4003-4004-4005-4006/131111242950?hash=item1e86d6ccc6:g:ZFcAAOSwczhbVMNh:rk:11:pf:0 20 diodes for Β£1 the silver band is positive so goes towards
    receiver
    plug.
    11 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    I had realised that John, the acronym DEAC had simply revived some ancient memories of my early days in mobile and hand-portable radio engineering. Circuitry and components, early ICs etc, were moving on much faster than battery development could keep pace. Good to hear from youπŸ‘ Pecker up old chap, with you in spirit. Best wishes, Doug
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    I have used a HK-TR6A-V2 transmitter for several of my R/C boats & want to get more
    receiver
    s Hobby King out of stock for months So is there a clone
    receiver
    available as a replacement . Looked around & saw a blog that mentioned a FS-R6B ( fly sky )
    receiver
    from Banggood can be used . I can order it but I'm afraid I'd be just wasting my money Any help out there
    3 years ago by GARTH
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    I know that Doug I was responding to Westie LOL
    11 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Mixer
    Hi all, another one for Doug , can you recommend a
    receiver
    battery pack for my setup
    11 months ago by teejay
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Mornin' John, I've used 'Generic' crystals with my ancient Sanwa 35 Meg set with no problems. I do find tho that the 'FM' crystals seem to give better range than the 'AM' crystals. Check the specs of your TX whether it is AM or FM. Cheers; Doug 😎 DEACS!? My God, when did I last hear of them let alone see one😲 We used to use them in professional personal VHF/UHF radios (Police and the like) some 45 years ago. 400mAh was good stuff in those days! Threw my last examples out about 10 years ago, they had some interesting and quite artistic crystal growths thoughπŸ˜‰ Was just a brand name for NiCads.
    12 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Does anyone know if a Sanwa Rx will work with Futaba Xtals. Both 35 mhz (planes only)πŸ‘πŸ€” More modern battery packs can replace the old DEACS so no probs there Westie.πŸ‘ I too use Bang Good and also Gear Best Both excellent.πŸ‘
    12 months ago by onetenor
    Forum
    Got the bits, now what?...
    Actually British people tend to go for "adaptor" for electrical equipment and "adapter" for people, although I have never seen, to my knowledge, the latter used in a body of writing. What I needed and have ordered from Wales, is a Deans male to fit into the battery because I didn't want to change the battery connector for all your excellent reasons, going to a pair of 4mm bullet connectors. Bullets because I have a pack of 10 already and I believe I may have a few more in a box of bits. So I have ordered a Deans male one end of a 50mm length of 12 gauge wire to a male and a female bullet. All the other connectors will be bullets. The bullets on the motor are 2mm diameter and I will keep them as the wires are short and I don't want to fiddle with them, so I have some 2mm females coming, which will go on the ESC motor wires. 4MM bullets on the ESC to fit the new adaptor and we're there. The ESC already has a
    receiver
    plug fitted. Thanks for the link. They look like a good source for the future. Now Giant Cod has gone, where would be a good place for cheap brushlesses? Cheers, Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Paddle Steamer For Sale
    Hi Colin Thank you for your inquiry. I live in Kenilworth, Warwickshire, I am looking for Β£200 o.n.o It is a great model. You would need your own
    receiver
    and transmitter. The other parts are all there but would need checking over before sailing.
    12 months ago by Doug79
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Colin, I first entered the world of proportional RC with a set called a Mini-Hex, in 1971. I bought it from the model shop in the arcade in Exeter. it cost a bloody fortune! 2 Function, essentially a copy of the Kraft set, but made in Belvedere, Kent. I still have it and as far and I know it still works, except the old DEAC battery pack is defunct, of course. it even came with it's own metal cased charger. Green frequency only, can't be changed! Cheers, Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Thanks jbkiwi, 2.4ghz isn't a problem, most of my vintage rx's are from the 60's through to the 80's. 27mhz and 40mhz. But it's good to have all the information I can get about all systems as I expect 2.4ghz will become vintage one day. Cheers Colin.
    12 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    The FSR6B will work with the FR Sky i6, i 10, T6 (which might be the HK-TR6A-V2), CT6B AND TH9X (which is the 'Hobby King' (FR Sky) 9x). I have bought the (Fly Sky) FSR6B and the FSR9B (8CH) and they both work fine on the 9x. Not sure what the difference between FR Sky and Fly Sky is, but it's probably just branding. I think Hobby King puts their own names on everything and modifies model numbers just to confuse everyone, like saying only their
    receiver
    s match which is not true (perhaps in their product line but not in the real world) you just have to look around and take a punt. FR Sky make the TH9x (HK 9x) probably the 9XR for HK, the Taranis and a few others. Fly Sky seems to make the cheaper ones i6 (which I think has replaced the 6df) TR6a HK-6DF TGY 6X (hard to find the XR5000,- 7000 RXs anywhere for the 6x) etc. It might be worth a crack at the 6ch FS-R6B
    receiver
    as the matches mention a T6 TX, not much to loose and if it works, buy a bunch (check EBay, AliExpress and Banggood,-prices vary for the same items) like I did just in case HK dumps it and leaves everyone high and dry, as they have with a number of products. Now days you have to do lots of research and risk a few dollars to win, with all the B/S you get from suppliers,-not just R/C.
    12 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Hi Bryan, I have found problems, even with matched crystals, the usual problem is that the some of the old rx's would not operate with a tx from a different manufacturer. I have acoms, futaba, Fleet and magregor as well as some unbranded tx's, but some of the models which I have aren't working with tx unless it's the same brand as the rx. This problem is mostly on the 27mhz models, although a couple of 40mhz systems have had the same problem. I always buy matched pair crystals. Even some am sets which never have a problem. So I thought if I can make a chart showing what is compatible with what. Cheers Colin.
    12 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Colin I operate all the frequency ranges you mention. in the old 27 Mhz any 27Mhz crystal set work providing the
    receiver
    is on the same frequency. The same is true for 40 Mhz each channel will transmit to any
    receiver
    within range but you can't put a 27 into a 40 or visa versa. I tend to use half channels as these days I am unlikely to meet anyone using them. Ebay is a very good source of crystals. The 2.4 gig system work by binding with a
    receiver
    and will only obey a signal sent for it. Just like the old game Simon says if that transmitter hasn't given the command the
    receiver
    will not obey. I hope that helps Bryan
    12 months ago by Bryan-the-pirate
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Thanks Martin, I understand about binding 2.4ghz but what really is my problem is the Compatibility of older 27mhz and 40mhz setups, also which crystals will work in which setups. This is where the compatibility chart will help. Cheers Colin.
    12 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Colin, when Doug repaired my faulty (at factory) Spektrum DX5e Tx, I sent him my Orange 6 channel Rx and a recently bought black one (just a number) and he bound both to the repaired Spektrum. I think you only need to make sure the compatibility with the operating system is right. But I'm sure he can explain all that better than I. Martin
    12 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    Thanks its very handy, just need other brands now to see if they can match. Cheers Colin.
    12 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Hobby King
    receiver
    clones
    fly sky transmitter /
    receiver
    data any help to anyone
    12 months ago by jacko
    Forum
    Mcgregor 1990s transmitter/
    receiver
    I know what you mean, i have altered my Mcgregor TX to Futaba, the
    receiver
    was gutted and a Futaba RX hidden inside!!! this was for use on some 60's models so it looked the part, modern internals with a retro outer case
    12 months ago by jarvo


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