Forum

Arduino Transmitter link up

Am looking into a new project. I would like to use an arduino board to switch lights on and off to start with. Using the stick on the tx in one direction for on and opposite direction for off by jabing it a set number of times for each set of lights is this possible Or can the arduino be used to programme an ic to do this job. Is this possible for a beginner with arduino or is it too complicated. All advice and ideas welcome. Am trying to avoid and make my own circuits instead of using action quad switches.

4 years ago by Elsrickle

Forum

Hidden switches.

This sounds very interesting haven’t worked with that system. Am just switching with from action. Any links where I can learn more about this type of set up.

5 years ago by Elsrickle

Forum

Fishtailing

DG, that's 2006, 13yrs ago when most people were still on FM. Most of that stuff probably doesn't apply these days with 2.4. We used to have a narrow 'hot spot' with FM around that time on our local 'unofficial' flying field (now a huge mall) and we put it down to perhaps being between 2 cell phone towers or an underground power cable. We even asked surveyors who were using satellite positioning equipment in the area but their frequency was so high and of low power so was ruled out. With 2.4 you don't get that sort of problem (maybe if you flew in front of a TV station transmitting dish or similar) but the whole idea of 2.4 was to alleviate all of the old problems. If you have a very cheap 2.4 set with a low scan rate you may get the odd problem close to a power source, (or standing next to someone with a powerful Futaba or similar) but on the whole, very few problems, (just check how far away they can fly Quads etc using Cloverleaf antennae and etc using 2.4) John B

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Reversing Field-Wound motors

Seems reasonable Dodgy👍 Got loads of Op Amps in the stash and some suitable FETs and 15A coming today. So I'll be 'avin a bash shortly. Doug

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Battery backup

Just kiddin' Rob 😁 Although, a vague idea how to raise the flag is trying to hide behind my last few grey cells🤓 Got an old home made winch driver kicking about to use for some trials. Just ordered a batch of ICs, , and selection of MOSFETs to play with! So if you see puffs of black smoke and hear loud swearing, in German and English, coming out of the SSE you'll know who it is 😮😉 Four way (All Round) flasher unit prototype is done and tested. If I have time I'll put up some vid and scope pics of the tests. Built it while experimenting with improving the brightness of Haig's (Reilly4) strobe unit for his patrol boat. Next up is the comparator / switch trigger. Tricky bit is setting a stable reference threshold voltage - retires to Man Cave scratching head! Have an idea so have ordered a few chips to test it. Damn, have I still got the right Zeners in my stash!?😮 The actual switching board is the 'easy' bit! I've been wondering about the current you guys are thinking of switching! Any thoughts on that? The higher you go the more expensive the power switching elements get. 🤔 So maybe a smaller, lower voltage 'Get me home' battery is the answer, especially if space and weight margin is limited. I've ordered some 'stuff' to cope with around 10 to 15A max, more than enough for most scale boats / ships I think. The speed merchants would have to dig deeper in their pockets! Any and all inputs on this welcome Gents (and Ladies Nerys😉) Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Fairmile c class maiden voyage

Sounds like you need to have a dedicated TX for the boat. I had a similar problem as I fly planes also. I bought a Hobby King HK6s mode 1 which is a basic 6CH but is easy to convert to twin throttles for boats (I have 2,- 1 for smaller planes and 1 for boats + a 6x, 9x and 2 9XRs). Makes life a whole lot simpler not having to use and switches for motors. The other TX is the Fly Sky 9X (Turnigy 9X, IMax 9X) which has more switches and functions (plus easy to find extra RXs outside HK,- 3ch, 4ch, 6ch,which suit) or if you want overkill, a TGY 9XR pro and JR module, which has everything you will NEVER need on a boat . Maybe you could use a program to pulse lights, (I have it lowering the flaps on my Cub in 2 stages in small steps /pulses and slow stepless up for eg,) or perhaps have the center motor only coming in over 1/2 throttle through a separate RX,- options are endless. I think the HK 6s is the best if you just need a 6CH or the 9X for more features. You can use the rotary switch (6s) through a Sky RC remote switch (eg) to turn on lights etc plus the toggle sw for another function. Just depends on the $$ really Not sure if you are using Lipos, brushed or brushless setup but either way sounds like 2x 3s 3000mah 20c lipos should work, especially if your motors are brushed 12v , also maybe try reducing the prop pitch or diam to take a bit of load off the battery/s. Depends obviously on a number of things such as space, motor type (no of poles, KV, size etc), boat weight, battery type and capacity/discharge rate etc. Lipos are by far the best option for powering models.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

LED Lighting tip

Hi Martin, There's a saying over here amongst ship model builders, which translated means "Ship modellers will collect and save anything that won't start to stink after a few days!"😉 I do the same as you with old video recorders, PCs, dead garden solar lamps etc etc. Great sources for motors, LEDs, power supplies, fans, connectors, ribbon cables, cogs n pulleys ..... I also browse around the flea markets here; great sources for odd bits n pieces. Have found boxes of assorted cog wheels and pulleys, once even a whole tray of miniature 5V . Which I used for a home made controllable switchboard in my destroyer. See pics! Carry on recycling👍 Cheers, Doug

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Z-39 German WW2 Destroyer

Well I'm damned! That's exactly how my HMS Hotspur started out when I was 15! 52 years ago, Tempus Fugit 🤔 Based on the old 1/600 Airfix kit! Back then no digital micros, PCs, Internet or 3D tech☹️ I used calipers, a crude plastic micrometer, Dad's steel rule (half mm and 1/64th scales) and a slide rule. Drew the plans at 1/72 on an 'endless' printer roll Dad brought from the RAF Cosford Tech Training School, where he was chief syllabus writer for the Radar Tech courses. Much much later (32 years ago) I made my own decoder board with to switch the lighting, smoke and horn circuits. All operated from one channel at the TX. Servo mounted micro switches provide for two further functions. Looking forward to your sketches / photos very much👍 For my turrets I used one servo reduction gear and a pulley system to increase the 'firing arc' to ~270°. The whole shebang is mounted underneath the aft deck section so all comes out together for servicing. Think I'd better continue this in 'Retro Build Blog'!😮 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich