Response

Fairey Hunsman part 6

I'm following your Blog with interest as I'm currently building a Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I'm building the hull from ply and getting the curves right on the hull skins is proving challenging. Mine has only a single motor and rudder. Good luck with the work👍

5 years ago by StuartE

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

Evenin' Colin, Understand. But; Not sooooo expensive when you consider that you are effectively getting 2 ESCs in one compact board, plus the rudder mixer. With the Mtronics gizmo you still need the separate ESCs, which also makes the wiring messier!🤔 Taycol and converter board are packed up and will be on it's way to you per DHL this week. Ought to be with you before April!!😉 Look forward to the pics of the Commander . The paddler looks neat as well👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS there are also outputs for controlling Smokers or Sound Modules on the AC board.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Fairly Hunsman part 1

Pictures Rubbing down hull, Close ups of hull repairs Drill holes in transom for the exhaust pipes (water cooling outlets). Added spray rail to side of hull. Have found that I am having bad reactions to the fumes from Gorilla Glue.

6 years ago by CB90

Response

aeronaut classic

Hi Simon, I used the lacquer on the blue and white as well. it 'flattened' the paint and made it real hard and smooth 😊 The whole time consuming but satisfying process is described in incredibly boring 😉 detail in my blog- 'Jessica - Sea Scout restoration' (or was it ??😲 Go easy with the lacquer on top of the varnish, not too heavy in one coat, or it may cause hairline surface cracks as it dries due to surface tension. 😡 Motor is a Propdrive 2832, 1000kV driving a 35mm 3 blade brass prop from Raboesch. Running on a 3S Lipo using a Quicrun 30A ESC and Turnigy iA6 RX. Pic attached of 'Engine Room'. Link attached to videos of the sea trials in May this year, Ostpark Lake and Biergarten, Munich. https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw She's 24" LoA with an all up weight of about 1.5kg. BTW: the lacquer is also supposed to be UV resistant! 😉 All the best, Doug 😎 PS Here the link to my Sea Scout Build Blog https://model-boats.com/builds/view/28209

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Media

Vosper MTB

I bought this boat as a project, almost finished now

5 years ago by RobbieMcKennan

Forum

Mini lathe

Aha! You mean the 'Lego Lathe'!! Lotsa blocks you can shove together to make a lathe or milling machine or .... Agree about the motor, not big enough or man enough for the job. I bought one at an exhibition some years ago, it's buried in the workshop somewhere.😲 Nowadays I mostly use my little Proxxon FD150/E. Just used it to make some parts for Colin's Taycol Supermarine . Simple uncomplicated machine, good for small parts. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Spraying Again.......

Hi Neville, Check out my Sea Scout 'Jessica' blog for how to achieve good paint finish! 'Wet n dry' is the ONLY way to go. Right from the priming stage. it stops the 'riding' you describe and the generation of flying dust which is anathema to any paint or varnish finish, but you do have to clean and re-wet the paper and the object you are sanding from time to time!!! Any mistakes at that stage will carry through to the top coats and still be visible 😡 Don't quite understand how you created 'mouths'. I'm wondering if you sprayed too close and/or too heavy!? Your apparently exorbitant paint consumption seems to hint at this🤔 For the record; I started with 240 on the primer/filler for my Sea Scout and worked up through 400, 600, 1000, and 2000 and 3000 for the final top coats and deck varnish. All 'Wet', with a few drops of liquid soap added at the top coat stages, i.e. from the 1000 stage. At the end I polish with a mild cutting polish 'Anti hologram' they call it here, from the auto industry. Tedious I agree and a generous dollop of patience is required (the 'Secret ingredient' I have often mentioned here 😉 But when you see the result it warms the cockles and makes it all worthwhile.😊 Happy spraying, cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; for the blue on my Sea Scout hull I used a 400ml rattle can for several coats (more than three in the end) and there's still some left ! BTW2; For masking I use Tamiya tape for nice crisp edges. Fill in behind that with 'normal' fine masking tape and newspaper.

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Fairey Hunsman part 4

What a real back end looks like

6 years ago by steve-d

Blog

Fairey Hunsman part 5

Started on Superstructure, as I had some free time, the cabin and sides will not be removeable and access to installation will be via the rear of cabin's floor area. lite ply profiles cut to an old Vic Smeed design.

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

St Canute Planking Help?

Hi Richard, Unless you are planning to finish the hull with varnish, to show off the wood, the easiest way is to fit hard balsa or obechi blocks and cut, file and sand to fit. This is the 'way out' I chose on the of my Billing fish cutter. See pics. Pic 1. The mess I started with, Pic 2. Block fitted and shaped, new keel fitted, whole hull then covered inside and out with glass fibre tissue and EzeKote, Pic 3. Preliminary priming prior to final filling (minimal) and sanding, Pic 4. Nearly there 😉 Otherwise you are faced with some tedious steaming, bending and pinning😲 Hope this helps some. Good luck, keep us up to date with progress please👍, Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Taycol Supemarine Resurrection

Hi Boaty, The Taycols have fascinated me as well, ever since I dug the Target out of the Sea Scout my Dad built in the early sixties. I blogged my of that and the conversion to run with a modern RC system and presumably that, and the converter boards I built for Martin (Westquay), is what triggered Colin to ask me to have a look at his Supermarine. How could I resist!? 😉 The 'smell of something electrical' is the ozone gas caused by the prolific sparking of the Taycol metal to metal brush / commutator combination. The other source of Ozone is on the coast wherever there is a strong surf! I agree, a nostalgic smell, which unfortunately disappears when the converter board is attached to make it run with a standard brushed ESC. The diode bridge kills almost all the sparks. 'Almost' so the usual suppression capacitors are still recommended. 0.1µF across the brush terminals, 0.047µF from each terminal to the motor can, or frame in this case. Earth to prop shaft tube as well if possible. The motor may not disturb the on-board electronics of your own boat, if using 2.4Gig, but could still affect anyone nearby using 27 or 40Megs. The power density of spark transmitters (e.g. unsuppressed E-motors, peaks in the upper HF bands and diminishes to almost zilch in the UHF bands. I.e. approx 30 MHz upwards. Like me and other submariners for instance; 2.4Gig is useless for subs cos it don't go underwater. Cheers, Doug 😎 But here! BTW Boaty: where are the pics of your Avanti? Harbour posts without pics are pretty dead 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Fairey Hunsman part 3

Hi That boat will look great when it's finished. The hull of the Huntsman 31 is the sleekest of the lot. I'm looking to build an aft cabin version in the near future but at some point would like to build a Sport version. As per part 1, yes the scale of 1:11 is a bit strange, will have to ask Dave Milbourn how that came about.

6 years ago by ChrisF

Response

Rebuild starts

Evening Peter, I can confirm that the Shapeways 50 cal sets are very brittle, at 1/35 very filigree and fragile. I haven't built them yet, just trial fitted the carriages in the gun tubs, whereby I discovered that they are a tick smaller diameter than the tubs😲 So they are on the back burner until I have the hull and propulsion finished. Which will itself have to wait while I finish the hull / conversion of my ancient Billing Boats fish cutter. Re: Airbrush: why the hell waste over a hundred quid buying another? Just buy a selection of needles and jets for the one you have. Mine came with a range from 0.3 to 0.8mm. Seem to remember remarking that 0.5 is too small for hull spraying! I'll only charge 50 quid for the advice and you've still saved 50!! 😁😁😁 Re next project: I reserve judgement, until I see one of the current projects afloat! 😉 Whatever, have fun with it, Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

Rebuild starts

Well it has been a while but I can now continue with the . I have purchased most of the weaponry from Battlecraft and I must say that I am impressed with the quality. I will add pictures of these later in the build. I have started to prime all of the wood. Removal of the final areas of the original paint was a task but I got there in the end. I have applied sanding sealer and rubbed it down with 1000 grit wet and dry. it is starting to look and feel quite smooth. Have you built the 50cal guns yet Doug? I would like to buy some but I am concerned that they might be a little brittle for me to handle.🤔 Just a couple of questions to ask before I get on. Can I have suggestions as to who supplies good quality wooden kits to build at reasonable prices. I need to consider my next project. I want to buy a 0.8mm air brush for the larger areas as I am finding 0.5mm too small. I have my eyes on an Iwata HP-EP. This is for sale on ebay new at £122. Are there any suggestions for a better and or cheaper solution. Thanks.🤓

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

Mid Deck

An excellent Tutor Mike, many thanks👍 Will try to use these techniques on the cockpit of my Sea Scout. Possibly also on the fish cutter as well. Old (Sea) Dog - new tricks!?😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...

Simply superb, you're right about the bits and classic speed boats, but in the model world I think there the best, our best seems likely to be the Fairey range of boats but although quite quick still rather blockish. I have deep respect for modellers who are able to produce such exquisite examples. My humble efforts give me great enjoyment as most of my work involves of old forgotten models when my arthritis let's me. Cheers Colin.

6 years ago by Colin H

Blog

Fairey Hunsman part 3

Thanks to ChrisF I am able to rebuild the boat with a different superstructure, but using the Huntsman 31 hull, he informed me of a Sport version of the 31 that had similar cabin as the 28. With some investigation. The New boat will now be '2017 Huntsman 31 Cockpit', this is a modern remake of the original design by a new setup. https://www.faireymarine.com/new-boat-showrooms/huntsman/2017-huntsman-31-cockpit-6084414/ Fairey 2017 Huntsman 31 cockpit, 2 berth classic sports cruiser Length: 31’3” Beam: 9’6” Draft: 2’10” Displacement: 4.5 Tons

6 years ago by CB90

Blog

Fairey Hunsman part 2

The boat was free but I gave a small donation to the club,(Darlington & District Model Boat Club). Started by removing all hardware, motor mounts, prop shaft, rudder, water-scoops and outlets. Next fill the holes I have made, remove some excess wood. roughly sand down hull. Foam bow area, and glue crack in deck. Find a lot of damage to the fibreglass hull, large chips out of the gel coat and associated stress fractures, and other spider web cracks. Drimmel all crack lines and open up chips and dents, then fill with a filler. an experimental mix of P38 and Araldite, hope it works. Start planning drive options I have a number of items that I have brought and not used that will be put in this boat, otherwise they may never find a home. last picture shows drive option to use up components.

6 years ago by CB90

Response

Fairly Hunsman part 1

Fairey Huntsman 31 aft cockpit 2 berth classic sports cruiser it will be then, sorry about the spelling will correct if possible. Length: 31’3” Beam: 9’6” Draft: 2’10” Displacement: 4.5 Tons

6 years ago by CB90

Response

Fairly Hunsman part 1

So do I Chris 😲 https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Fairey_Marine

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Fairly Hunsman part 1

Canabus - I bet Dave had a fit when he saw the spelling of Fairy on those instructions!! Chris

6 years ago by ChrisF

Response

Fairly Hunsman part 1

The hull of the 31 is much sleeker than that of the 28. By changing the superstructure you will have a Fairey Huntsman 31 Sport. Not many of these were sold as most 31's had the aft cabin.

6 years ago by ChrisF

Response

Fairly Hunsman part 1

i think he's also on Model Boat Mayhem. A Full Mayhemer! 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Fairly Hunsman part 1

Hi It's probably a Precedent hull. Check out the model boats mag forum site. They have a guru on the Huntsman !! Dave Milbourne. Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Response

Fairly Hunsman part 1

Good thinking. if it helps, The Fairey Owners Club www.faireyownersclub.co.uk has a lot of info and reference pictures on these boats and Charles Lawrence wrote Fairey in Context and Fifty Years of Fairey Raceboats czczcz@me.com (that is right). The original boats I’m told were painted with international Paints Oxford Blue 105 and White 905. I purchased these from a yacht chandlery.

6 years ago by Brianaro

Blog

Fairey Hunsman part 1

I was lucky to be able to get myself a fibre glass hulled Fairey Huntsman 31 this is a model of the 31 ft Huntsman which converts to a scale of 1:11 which is a bit of a strange scale, the superstructure is in a poor state, so I am thinking it could now be changed to a 'Fairey Huntsman 28' which I think looks better. Huntsman 28 The model 34 in long is close to 1:10scale at 34.6in Some History Four Huntsman 28's took part and competed in the 1969 Daily Telegraph / B.P. Round Britain powerboat race. A Huntsman 28 'Fordspeed No 909' entered and completed the London - Monte Carlo race in 1972. Also the same boat set a new class speed record of 51.271 mph on Lake Windemere, in October 1973. The hull is a deep V with single chine and spray rails. The construction was of laminated mahogany, the hulls were cooked in an oven to cure the glue. The twin engines were placed mid ships. Dimensions LOA: 28' 10" (8.8m) LWL: ~24' 10" (~7.6m) Beam: 8' 9" (2.66m) Draught: 2' 6" (0.76m) Displacement: 8160lbs (3710kg)

6 years ago by CB90

Response

The Crew(s)!!

Apropos 'chasing another boat' Donnie, Up to now I've only tried her with a 3S LiPo. See vids in my Harbour Post. https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw Just acquired a 4S 😲 hope the motor survives the next sea trial. At the moment a 2832 / 1000kV is fitted. JFF I also bought a 3750kV. If that don't rip the shaft out it should mean she'll catch almost anyone 😉 Wasn't my original intention with the but now I'm curious! 'Pushing the envelope' 😁

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

At Last The Sea Trials!! Munich 25.05.18.

Another Flashback - to 25th May at the Biergarten / lake in the Ostpark, Munich. Trials vids can be seen here on YouTube. Pt1: First run with a 3S LiPo. https://youtu.be/b0BWJ3duzDw Pt2: 'The competition / residents'! https://youtu.be/oMUlSOaAREM Pt3: 'Final run', the Bier was getting warm. https://youtu.be/zPgYicA0yGw They are also posted in the Video Gallery with some info on the batteries I tried and resultant performance. I think all the effort was finally worth it 😊 Now working on a PT Boat refit for the Pacific Theatre as PT109, and the conversion of an ancient Billing Boats fish cutter from static to RC. Cheers, All, Doug 😎 PS Filmed in 1080p. With thanks to my GF Gisela, the Camera Girl.😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Inspiration for beautiful boat builders ;-)

Generalising again Martin? Dangerous 😲 Canabus is just one example of the excellent scratch builders here. Robbob is another magnificent example. To name but two! Also, many of us, Colin-H for one, me for two😉, are heavily into s, usually without even plans, so that is also like scratch building. Often more fiddly than a new build. Like my Gina 2 cutter for instance. BTW: I've often wondered why your Boat Harbour is empty!? Any pics available? Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Conversion

You're dead right Hammer👍 This is my second / upgrade and the third, a 28" PTB is also already started. I must be nuts! But then, that's a prerequisite for model boaters ain' it!? Following your 'mechanical engineering' with great interest and awe! Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Gina 2: A Messy Business - Hull Restoration

Evenin' Mike, Glad you found it interesting😉 The details of the motor conversion are in my Sea Scout blog but the essentials are- All modern ESCs provide a DC output in the form of pulses which are rapidly switched on and off ( several thousand times a second). That's what you can see in the scope pics. The scope timebase (width of one horizontal division) is set to a little less than 1msec so you can see how fast the pulses are switched and how the pulse width (ON time) varies. The inertia of the motor keeps it going during the few milliseconds of 'Off' so the ratio of ON pulse to OFF determines the speed of the motor. The signal from the TX varies this ratio by varying the ON pulse width of the ESC output in proportion to the throttle stick position. A Bridge rectifier is simply 4 diodes arranged in a square (see pic) so that it has 4 terminals; +, - and two AC (~). When an AC signal is applied between the two ~ terminals a DC voltage of constant polarity appears at the + and - terminals. The rectifier sees the ESC output as an AC signal and produces a DC output at the + and - terminals. All I do is apply that constant DC voltage to the field coil of the motor, thus creating a constant magnetic field as if it was a permanent magnet. This means doing a small mod to the motor to separate the field coil from the brush gear and rotor (armature) coil. 3rd pic shows normal wiring of the coils in series. Meanwhile the varying pulsed voltage goes to the brush gear (and thus armature coil) driving the motor just like a normal 'can' motor. No rocket science just a neat trick 😉 The scope just shows the varying pulse train from the ESC to the motor. Zero Volts is on the horizontal centre line of the screen and shows when the voltage pulses are positive (upper part of screen) or negative (lower part of screen) and the motor reacts accordingly. The slight overshoot is probably due to the reaction time of the diodes but the motor doesn't notice that - it's too 'lazy' 😉 Here endeth today's seminar 😁 Hope it's demystified things a little. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Gina 2 Billing Boats Fish Cutter - Restoration & Conversion

Evenin' Mike, guess you're right 🤔 Bit of a departure for me I admit, and after I'd cleaned all the crud off and realised how shoddy and weak the hull was I wondered if I'd bitten off more than I can chew😲 However progress has been made😊 I hate to be beaten! See next update 'Motorisation - Come What May!' You'll recognise the topic from the discussion on dies and threading silver steel prop shafts😉 I'm multiplexing this project with a PTB and refit! Like most boat modellers 'a glutton for punishment'. Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Windows, stoopid question.

Hi John, I wondered about cutting slits, BUT figured the steel would be very very hard and my Dremel cutters wouldn't manage it, (my other cutter is for bricks an' such), AND the damn things have no dimples, they are hex nut shape 😭 Figured I'd screw up my drills trying to put a dimple in it🤔 Recovery system On Hold till I get my cutter and PTB s 'on the road'. Cheers, Doug

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last!

Hi Peter, see my PT109 Refit thread for the current status of my PTB. I had to completely strip the hull. Hope to get it primed and painted, Pacific green, and start refitting the shafts this week. I'll be starting a new Build Blog for it soon. 😉 Spent today sanding the hull of my Danish fish cutter 😡 Two parallel restorations / conversions and two hulls to prime and paint now! 😲 Good luck and much success with your various builds and s, great shame about the local pond🤔 I'm mostly alone as well, I avoid the weekend crowds! Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

54 year old Crash Tender

Hi Boaty, right on MOST counts👍 But some of us have 'The knowledge' 😉 Check out my 'Sea Scout Jessica - ' build Blog. There's a section in it where I renovate the Taycol Target Dad put in the Sea Scout in the early sixties, with two wet cell lead-acid accumulators! I also converted it to run forwards and backwards with a normal brushed ESC. How is described in the Blog. A few pics attached, from dismantled to reassembled with new brushes. Pic 3 it the test set up with Servo tester to simulate RX, standard Graupner brushed ESC and my conversion board connected between ESC and motor. Then two pics of the input waveform to the motor; forward and then reverse. Last pic shows the 'unconverted' waveform, complete with whopping great sparks 😲 I've now upgraded the Sea Scout with a brushless and the Taycol will go into a Danish Fish Cutter I am currently renovating and converting from static to RC. The Taycol's sedate performance will be more suited to the cutter which only plodded along a 8 knots or so 😉 Complete process is described in the Blog. Otherwise you are right, with few exceptions the current young 'boaters' mostly belong to the 'instant fun chuck it when it stops working throw away' generation 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 Martin; for yonks I did my warships in RAF light camouflage grey which mysteriously used to turn up in Dad's office in the Electronics Bay, of which Dad was the CO. 😉 A bright yellow for my scooter also appeared one time!

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Charging NiMhs, one for Doug?...

Evenin' Martin, Just back from 'nosh' with Gisela, my camera girl in the vid! She's mean like that too, keeps me hoppin' about like the proverbial cat on the proverbial hot stuff 😡 Can't wait to see the rotating teddy👍 Put a couple of mini Cam lenses in his eyeballs and you'll get a terrific 360° First Person View from the driving seat😁 Re Sea Scout, I took your advice and did the hull in Royal Blue (no navy knickers!😆) or what passes for that here. Anyway I'm pleased how she turned out. OK, I admit I accidentally turned her into a Sport Fishing Boat😁 She's 24" what scale do you think that makes her? I'm looking for crew figures and stuff to fit out the cockpit but I'm not sure what size to look for. I thought maybe 1/20 i.e. a 40 footer? Waddya think? Re Kako; while recently trying (fruitlessly🤔) to make space in the workshop (got two s on the go in parallel - saves getting the same tools, rattle cans an' stuff out twice!😁) I ran across the original Kakos and Mabuchis I used in my scratch 53" H class destroyer Hotspur in 1966. She ran off a 4.5V EverReady flat (form not volts😁) battery until Granny took pity and bought me some 6V Lantern batteries! I ran 'em up on a power supply and they turned but now sound like mini football rattles! Think they need new big end shells 😁 Jeez, how many guys under pension age have ever been down to the bitza bazaar looking for 50 thou oversize bearing shells and compression and oil control rings?? Pics show her Sea trials in Radnor Park pond, Folkestone, Kent, summer 1966. Sorry about the quality, only had a Box Brownie 127 in those days and could only afford Gratispool free B/W films🤔 Pentax? Canon? Sony? Not to mention Digital? HD? Wassat? 50 years on I got all three😉 I like Lupins too, preferably the blue and purple ones. BTW, for your steering guy's arms you don't need a separate RC function or channel! You just need a coupling from the rudder control to turn a pulley and cord which turns a suitably scaled pulley attached to the wheel axis. The arms are fixed to the wheel and go with it! Dead simple (to write anyway😁) and no lecktrickery! 😊 OR you could just put one of his hands on the wheel and the other on the throttle. Then use a 'Y' cable to split the ESC cable into two. Connect the second output to a servo which moves the throttle lever via a push-me-pull-you-rod, pulleys and cord or gears or whatever. Sure you can figure out the mechanics better than I. Whatever, have fun and don't electrocute yourself, keep your socks dry😉 Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Fire Boat (crash tender) colours...

Am very interested in the correct colours also purchased one for it has no vent cowls or any fittings and am about to start it. As. I wish to have it as correct to the original as possible would appreciate any information on fittings and paint schemes, didn't think the white deck on white roof seemed correct. The model I have is about 3 foot long +/-

6 years ago by Elsrickle

Forum

LED Tug Mast Navigation Lights

Afternoon Pete, Not awesome 😉 just 'Been there - Done that'! Albeit on older versions. So; now we're getting somewhere. Good idea with the connector 👍 I plan to do that with mine as well. I took it apart to investigate adding smoke, lights and sound. And possibly a twin ESC rudder mixer. Project got shelved when I got deeply involved by a couple of / conversion jobs. 🤔 You've inspired me to bump her up the 'To Do List' a ways 😉 Now we should be able to trace the wires back to the circuit board😊 Will send a Step by Step procedure tonight. Gotta go fix a rotten fence now 😡 Cheers Doug 😎 PS: I was also impressed with the quality and fit of the mouldings. Good tooling 👍 PPS: You may find this thread useful https://model-boats.com/builds/view/34234?goto=34235 Neil has also been down a similar road. 'Jarvo' as well, who came up with some useful tips, esp re locations of hidden screws😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Sea Scout 'Jessica' Sea Trial - at last!

You're Sooo right Ed👍 Especially if yours is the only 'show' on the water, like today. You meet some nice people 👍 Since I retired I can avoid the weekends and holidays when the Biergarten lake is overrun and overcrowded😊 Re: finding the time! You should see the state of my maisonette!! Or maybe not 😲 No wonder no woman lives with me for long 😉 Photos attached of possible next projects - What should I do next??? Answers on a postcard please to ..... 😁 1 The Danish fish cutter? Full restoration, 2 The ELCO PTB? , repaint and refit as PT-109, 3 Or maybe the cruiser HMS Belfast? Needs new props and RX and ESCs fitted. 4 KMS Graf Spee, needs new shafts, props, RX and ESCs. Help! 😲 it's all go folks! Happy boating all, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

It's a sad day!.

I can well imagine how you feel about your i.c. models. My recent /recommissioning of my late father's Vosper MTB is kind of ironic in that it last ran in 1962 when noise suddenly became an issue. Mind you, it was VERY loud. My rebuild, needless to say, was centred around brushless motors and lipo's. But I also put an excellent sound system into it as it was so quiet. The system, by Action Electronics and is nice and loud as per the full-size but it does seem ironic that I felt the need to put sound(noise) back in! I use lots of small diesels in free-flight model aircraft and still hugely enjoy getting them 'singing' and savouring the wonderful smell in the car going home afterwards!

6 years ago by wunwinglo

Forum

Sea Commander restoration tips

Hi Laurence, check out the Build Blogs on this site. There are many covering various 'Seas', including my Sea Scout with lots of tips re painting and varnishing. https://model-boats.com/builds/view/28209 Last pic shows the 'before' state after 20 odd years in the cellar! Have fun, cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Getting ready

I've done a lot of , reconstruction, and repair work on models for antique shops and such, and much of that experience went into Constellation and other models. As a working model, thing wear, need to be adjusted, repaired, and replaced much more often than a static model, and she's built with that in mind from access to how things are put together. The parrell bands from a post or two ago are a prime example. The real ones are hinged, but mine needed to also hinge not only to be authentic, but at some point I might need them to come off, and unless they hinge, I'd need to take half the rig apart to get them off. That ring-thing I mention in the last post is much the same, it won't really be a closed ring, but may be more like a hinged key-ring, like in this picture. For me, making a working model is 40% "how will I get it there and back," and 70% "how will I fix that if it breaks?"

6 years ago by Jerry Todd

Response

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-)

I think you're right Donnie, a is often more difficult and time consuming than a new build! That's good to hear about the E-Z connectors, do you have a link to an On-line shop by any chance? BTW: saw your post about Krampus' sailing area, actually I wanted to be there as well but my boat ain't ready yet 😭 attached a few pics of my 'Home Port' in Munich, 3rd pic shows the corner where I sail from, right next to the Biergarten😋, cheers Doug😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-)

Doug,my thoughts are that a is as close to a build you can get.It's done with love.We can still buy E-Z connectors here in Toronto.Let me know when you need some.

6 years ago by Donnieboy

Response

Bits n pieces arrived / Aft Deck Mk 2 built ;-)

Thanks Donnie, much appreciated👍 😊 Not so much a build as a but she's not doin' so bad for 55! Spent the last coupla days cutting and trimming 3 of the 5 windows out of 3mm perspex, not as simple as I'd imagined - but that's another update 😉 Like to think that Dad's lookin' down and approves. BTW: can you still buy the E-Z connectors? Still have a few but would be good to know where to get some more. Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Re: Donnieboy's Gina 2

Good tip, will investigate how to do that, and keep her watertight, when I get around to the . 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Amsterdam Tug /converstion

Picked up a rather battered wooden hulled Amsterdam tug last Thursday. The intention is to give it some much needed TLC and convert it to one of the French Tenace Class tugs. It will be used as my clubs camera / rescue boat so accuracy and detail will come second to the functionality of its role. Currently I have stripped out everything except the motor so I can fit some strengthening and improve the watertightness of the hull

6 years ago by PMBDTCentral

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New Member

Hi Richard, Re fitting the M500 see my answer in 'Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute'. Nice fleet, good work 👍 Your 'Norden' is very similar to the Billing Danish Fish Cutter on my list! Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

up date

I can well appreciate that Cliff, I'm finally beginning to see results on my Sea Scout . Have started on the twiddly bits like deck fittings. Your railings look really neat, I doff my hat😉 Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Sanding down.

Hi Peter, you're right about the sanding down. Take your time and apply a generous Dollop of Patience 😉 Any short cuts here will show up all through the painting process 🤔 See my Sea Scout 'Jessica' blog re hull restoration!! My motto for painting is 'Brush for little fiddly bits, spray for big bits' e.g. hulls. I agree model shop spray cans are usually small and relatively expensive for big hull. I use giant cans from the professional suppliers, again see my Sea Scout blog for descriptions and suppliers. Also agree about care with the thin skins. After sanding and sealing, with Lord Nelson pore sealer, I reinforced my Sea Scout inside (where I could get to!) and out with DeluxeMaterials EzeKote resin. it's not the cheapest but it's water based, doesn't pong and doesn't need mixing with hardener Brushes just wash out in warm water. Couldn't be easier 😊 Flat off starting with about 600 or 1000 grit annd work up to 3000 grit and you should end up with a finish like glass - see decks of my Sea Scout😊 For my ELCO PTB I bought Colour Coats MTB Green (from Sovereign Hobbies in UK) for the darker camo patches and italeri Flat Sky, # 4856, which is almost identical to the lighter Pacific Green for the base coat. After painting and detailing, pennant number and decals and such, I shall seal it all with a matt spray varnish. i use the big Lord Nelson spray cans for that. Re Gun Tubs: love the gun carriages but I guess they're much too big for my 28" boat. 😭 BTW: forward gun tub is too far forward. it should be further aft just in front of the screen round the bridge entrance starboard side and should be set half into the forward cabin. Just cut half of the lower section of the tub away on the inboard side to match the cabin height. See pics. You might find this Pinterest site useful for more detail👍 https://www.pinterest.de/pin/557039047643301834/ Register to get full access, it's free and you can get updates for the things that interest you. Hi Ray, attached are pdf files of the Aerokits plan. Just scale up to what you need and awaaay you go 😉 Look forward to the Blog👍 Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich