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    Blog
    More done
    Real quick update. I built up the stuffing tube and
    rudder
    post. Both are made from 6mm brass tube in which you install flanged 6x3 mm bushings. They’re a tight fit, but I soldered themin just in case. I installed the
    rudder
    post tube into the hull, followed by the ply bushings that are glued in place over the tube and against the hull, then slathered epoxy over the joint. I also started test fitting some of the motor mount parts to get an idea how this will all fit. Hopefully I’ll get more done this weekend, once the power system is in, I can concentrate on finishing up the upper superstructure, then, it’s time to paint and detail. Thinking about either airbrushing her or Tamiya rattle can. The Tamiya paints aren’t cheap, but they cover well and dry fast.
    11 days ago by Cashrc
    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the β€˜Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a β€˜Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately Β£2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of Β£48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more β€˜hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as β€˜strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver,
    rudder
    and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the
    rudder
    & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone β€˜off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    10 months ago by robbob
    Forum
    Help identifying
    Can anyone help me identify this boat. Bought it in 2nd hand shop has
    rudder
    and prop shaft fitted.
    7 months ago by juskiddin
    Forum
    Dual ESC & Mixer
    I have 2 of the Action-Electronics P94’s and they work great, a neat package containing 2 20amp ESC’s and a
    rudder
    mixer, problem is there so erratic in their availability, anyone aware of an alternative? I’ve used separate ESC’s and a forge electronics mixer, works but not as neat...
    3 months ago by Shopper
    Response
    Re: Fitting shafts and motors
    All's well .... πŸ‘ After I bought my Dual Quicrun I found the Action Electronics Dual ESC with
    rudder
    mixer AND output for a 3rd (centre) motor 😠 Natch more expensive but ideal for MTBs / PTBs! Have fun Pete, Cheers, Doug😎
    3 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile c class maiden voyage
    hi there Chewi having read through your postings and watching your video - I am not sure if you have the ACTion P94 set up correctly. You should be able to spin that model round on the spot as the P94 contains a
    rudder
    motor mixer built into it. However, be warned, the P94 doesnt like certain 2.4 transmitter sets. Basically, you have to set your transmitter back to zero manufacture settings with no mixing at all on your transmitter to get it working - and - its all done in the ESC - I have built several triple screw vessels myself - the RAF63and the MTBs and basically what I used to do there is use the old Electronize speed controllers from the 90s which dont have the pre-programmed chips in them so that I could switch the signal on and off to the speed controller, thus allowing me to control the centre prop by switching the signal off and on. So, when I wanted speed I ran on all 3 props but when I wanted to manouvre I switched the centre prop off and allowed the 2 outboard motors to spin the vessel with the
    rudder
    s, using mixers. In this particular model - I would ditch the gelcel battery and go for a Ni-MH battery and the 9.6 volt 500 mAh - 3 of these batteries one for each motor should give you ample run time. John
    4 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Hints and Tips.
    Mate, too many years in salt water . Tips? the secret? I really paint all my wood models so thoroughly and make internal wood coamings inside of the superstructures and actually hose down first thing at home with a soft hose stream to wash off salt. Most of my hulls and decks when the model is finished have been "painted" local hardware paint or sprayed with fibreglass resin thinned down about 50% or so on paint varnished wood ( even polyurethane 50% thinned ) of which BOTH are so clear and some models over 30/35 ( i/c and steam ) years are still impervious to attack and a bit bullet proof and every so often I do a clean down with say a household (any brand will do) kitchen bench type of cleaner, supermarket spray mist cleaner , you know the ones that smell so fresh and clean that they kill ONLY 99% of all germs and baddies ( what a crock ) and I then take the model/ bits onto the grass still smelling so fresh (UGH) and gently wash away the germs and baddies and just sun dry for a bit and put back in the shed for another day. I am so petty, I also save up the dry cleaning flimsy plastic sheets and cut the sides so I have a long sheet to drape over each model till the next run the sawdust of other shed jobs does NOT get on the model. I fold the sheets off with the dust side to the inner fold , hoping I do not forget which side is which ( I think I am getting OLDER )before I check out the model (radio test, fuel ok , just lightly SINGER oil carburettor shaft ,
    rudder
    post prop shaft bits , check the glow plug works, inline fuel filter is clean , AND AND leave my engine settings alone year after year AND try to exactly mix the same fuel blend over and over by careful measure but you can slop a tad more oil in as *Oil is CHEAPER than steel , if a bit rich then one click on the needle yet my mates rib me as I leave it *ALONE ). I always check, ALWAYS on the day BEFORE next days run and avoid things that go wrong at the pond side , ( you know the guy who glitches and bleats it was going so well last time ) as I am in OPEN waters I do not chance fails. Regards and good boating Lyle from Oz.
    4 months ago by Lyle
    Response
    Re: HMS Cottesmore in 1/48 scale.
    Excellent work MartinπŸ‘ Very service friendly (Once again proving the old adage- 'If you fail to plan then you plan to fail'!) and excellent detailing. I have made some wt doors for my HMS Hotspur in very similar fashion. Do you use a
    rudder
    mixer with the twin ESCs or rely on the bow thruster? You're getting the hang of Blogging pretty quickly I see. Nice style. Keep it up. Cheers, Doug 😎
    5 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Noodle Jet Boat
    Looks good, you may need a
    rudder
    if you have problems turning! I had a similar boat which was fine in straight lines 😁
    5 months ago by John2
    Response
    Re: PT 109
    Hi Doug and thank you for you comments. I have two props with 2 x brushless 12v motors although I have also fitted a 'false prop' in the center as this would of been on the original. Only having tried her out in the bath I did push the revs up a bit (whilst holding the bow) and the power was fantastic, the amount of splash back went up the wall. I have fitted 3 x
    rudder
    s each about 50 mm in depth. Now working on lighting as well. I purchased a small electric search light which I have mounted on a pole for fitting, also the port and starboard lights will be working as well.
    6 months ago by DELVEIN
    Directory
    (Life Boat) Taymar
    Model Slipway Taymar Lifeboat and just completed the glassfibre hull, deck and installing motors, bow thruster and
    rudder
    servo (Motor: Graupner 600 x2) (10/10). The deck was a bad fit into the hull and a battle to fix but with hour long epoxy and lots of sellotape pulling the hull against the deck I got there in the end
    1 year ago by Brianaro
    Forum
    Model Slipway Tug AZIZ
    Further to the previously mentioned craft, the Model Slipway Tug/supply vessel 'Aziz' is also for sale. 1:50 scale, and measuring just over 110 cms. Again, constructed to the highest of standards, and with excellent detail, the craft has been used only sparingly. As with the other boats, the radio/electrical gear needs attention, as it is only presently fitted with the two motors and the
    rudder
    servo. This is a very impressive looking vessel, and I will give serious consideration to any offers that may be forthcoming. Many thanks, Dave
    7 months ago by Davecounty
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Accidently deleted posts - Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 3 ) hi there With regard the servo
    rudder
    linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between
    rudder
    and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the
    rudder
    tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the
    rudder
    post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the
    rudder
    . The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the
    rudder
    blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.πŸ‘ Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the
    rudder
    . And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term
    rudder
    commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big
    rudder
    s I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the servo from the
    rudder
    during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the servo, not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out. Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the servo arm has two arms maybe for a reason? At the end of the day its personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy engineering, wait while you see the mast!
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Brave Borderer
    Canabus, Hope this helps, Rowen Using the FS-I6X instruction Manual, dated 8/10/2018. This Tx allows infinite experimenting with the various control functions and ultimately reverting to factory settings if dissatisfied with results. After several attempts at setting the ELEVON function (V-TAIL could be similar, but the Tx channels would be different), decided this works best for me. it puts both brushless ESCs on the RH control lever. Moving it up operates both screws in the forward direction and down into reverse. Going from side to side speeds up or slows down the motors, so the boat goes in the direction the lever dictates. This was accomplished by: 1) Page 14/57 Establish the Tx Stick mode, mine was # 2. 2) Considering ELEVON, need to determine which layout allows the Aileron and Elevator controls to be operated by same lever. 3) Use Elevator for throttle (fwd & astern) and Aileron to β€œturn”. The Aileron will accelerate the motor on the outside of a turn. 4) Plug Port & Starboard motor ESCs into channels 1 & 2 respectively. 5) Refer to Para 5.10 and set Elevon mode on Tx. 6) Use channel 4 (LH lever side to side) for
    rudder
    and Channel 3 (LH lever up / down) for any other function needing proportional control. I am using it for the centre brushed motor. This means that my control levers, which had previously had throttle on the LH lever and
    rudder
    on the right are now totally changed. There is also an article in the March edition of Model Boats that explains the concept.
    6 months ago by RHBaker
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Just moved these two posts that were posted further down my blog by mistake as they are significant to the discussion and bring back the subject as I think its important as I would like to know if any others have a view. the photo is Johns Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 2 ) hi there With regard the servo
    rudder
    linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between
    rudder
    and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the
    rudder
    tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the
    rudder
    post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the
    rudder
    . The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the
    rudder
    blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify βœ“ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.πŸ‘ Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the
    rudder
    . And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term
    rudder
    commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big
    rudder
    s I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Search light
    In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.πŸ‘ Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the
    rudder
    . And hence stop the servo motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the servo and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term
    rudder
    commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big
    rudder
    s I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer servos Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the servo on it's side.😲
    6 months ago by RNinMunich
    Response
    Servo Mount
    Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the servo from the
    rudder
    during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the servo?, not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out. Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the servo arm has two arms maybe for a reason? At the end of the day it's personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy engineering, wait while you see the mast!
    6 months ago by mturpin013
    Response
    Search light
    hi there With regard the servo
    rudder
    linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between
    rudder
    and servo and it is not set up quite right - a servo movement can force the
    rudder
    tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the servo to the outer hole on the servo arm isn't equal to the centre of the
    rudder
    post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the
    rudder
    . The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the servo, because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the
    rudder
    blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your servo - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the servo. Admittedly, this problem where you wear the servo out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John
    6 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter
    Hi, As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this. Especially .. this type is mainly designed for aircraft control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship model. This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified servo. in the base allows only proportional control of servos or ESC. There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT but these are far more expensive... The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for engine control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the
    rudder
    . there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-. channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions. These channels again allow only proportional control. Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6 settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this) It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the receiver !!) before you all plug in the model. I hope it helped you a little bit.. Tom
    7 months ago by tomarack
    Response
    Servo Mount
    The aluminium servo mount is similar to what I have used, but the quality here is a step above excellent. πŸ‘ I use aluminium angle sections as well, so they can be made into a Z section depending on the application. I use 2mm to 3mm diameter bolts and drill and tap into the sections to secure the servos. This method can be used on any size of servo as they come in various sizes. I have also noticed that some modellers put two linkages on
    rudder
    servos. if both linkages worked in tension only (ie both pulling), then this is necessary, but if the linkage is a rod that works in both tension (pulling) and compression (pushing) then there should be no need for duplication. None of my models have this arrangement.
    7 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Aziz, Westerriff, Assurance Envoy for sale
    Thank you for your kind comments, and yes, all of the ships have been built to a very fine standard. With the Aziz already fitted with two motors and
    rudder
    servo, there is little to do in order to set sail. They have all sailed previously, and I think that some of the RC components may have been transferred from one to the other, dependant upon the flavour of the month at the time. I can't sing the praises of these craft enough, they are impressive in every respect. They aren't in the way yet, but I am fearful that constant working around them could result in damage, so they sooner they sail off into the distance, the better. :-) Don't be afraid to make an offer, I do need to sell them all. Many thanks, Dave ( the site will also benefit from a sale, as a suitable donation will be made ).
    7 months ago by Davecounty
    Response
    Fairey Hunsman renovation part 6
    I'm following your Blog with interest as I'm currently building a Huntsman 31 from a kit bought from SLEC. I'm building the hull from ply and getting the curves right on the hull skins is proving challenging. Mine has only a single motor and
    rudder
    . Good luck with the renovation workπŸ‘
    7 months ago by StuartE
    Blog
    Auxiliary motor,
    rudder
    servo, bowsprit bitts
    Back to posting again....I decided to added an auxiliary motor since I had several laying around and it will come in handy when I am tweaking the sailing setup in case I get stuck in the middle of the pond. Made a stuffing tube just like I did on my rescue tug build. Made a shaft from some 3/16" steel rod, threaded it and polished it up, works great. Photo of the aft section shows continued hull framing and upside down mount of the
    rudder
    servo. I will enclose the servo with the small pilot house as is typical on the barge. This will make maintenance and adjustment access easy. Yes, the build is wandering away from the true "Pearl" which I used the hull plans from. it will maintain the same sail plan, but I will modify some items for ease of RC use. Bowsprit will be retractable, bitts are shown in progress. The bowsprit will be made from a carbon fiber "arrow shaft". Mast will be wood and I am shaping out of maple that I have. Staring to plank the hull as well. More to come shortly, Joe
    7 months ago by Joe727
    Media
    Fairmount Alpine
    Hello ! Som more Pictures of my Fairmount Alpine , A little bit forward on the deck propshaft and
    rudder
    is mounted the towing winch is mounted and working more pictures is comming // Have a nice weekend all boat builders πŸ‘
    7 months ago by jugge
    Forum
    RC circuit
    Since your going to replace your Tx and Rx consider a computer radio like the taranis. Each of your
    rudder
    servos can be on its own dedicated channel as can the ESC for each motor. Using the built in mixing functions you can "tune" the setup so as to get the effects your looking for plus you can do things like both
    rudder
    s moving in opposite directions to give a brake effect. Setting up the mixing looks difficult but once your into it, it follows a logic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g&t=21s
    7 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    RC circuit
    Am considering changing my Dumas pushboat San Pedro from single motor control to twin control to improve manueverability. I also plan on installing flanking
    rudder
    s at the same time. I am going for a 6 channel transceiver setup. Have not been able to find any diagrams for what is needed or wiring involved. Any assistance would be gratefully appreciated!
    7 months ago by Mariner85
    Forum
    Robbe Westerriff lotse pilot vessel
    This boat is understood to be a Robbe 1:25 kit, constructed to a very high standard, and is the pilot vessel Westerriff. The craft is finished to the most exacting of standards and, whilst fitted with a motor, bow thruster and lots of wiring, will need additions and finishing to perform, with, battery, radio gear etc required. ( I also note there is no servo for the
    rudder
    ). It has sailed previously, and is provided with many attractive features, including operating water cannon, rotating radar, operating mast lights ( numerous ). The length is 106 cms, or a tad under 42 inches in old money.( The craft is supplied without the stand that is shown in the images. I am presently looking for a suitable stand, so if there is one out there to be had, please do let me ( or the new purchaser ) know. If further info or images is/are required, please do let me know. Again, I am looking for a reasonable and realistic offer for the boat, and all offers will be considered. The craft is presently moored alongside the previously mentioned Assurance class armed tug in South Manchester. ( also, the least I can do is to ensure that a suitable donation is made to the site following the sale of any of the craft that I am offering for sale ).
    7 months ago by Davecounty
    Forum
    RC circuit
    looking at flanking
    rudder
    s you will need another servo working these and this can be either with a another channel or a Y connector working all servos have a look at "Google" how flanking
    rudder
    s work hope this helps
    7 months ago by jacko
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Whilst I am not new to boat modelling, I am new to r/c and I’m confused about an issue I have. You can see the setup in the images. Everything works fine, and testing the boat on the pond; I was very pleased how she ran. The issue is this: if I set the trim switch (bottom right on transmitter image) to reverse, the
    rudder
    works normally. If I set it to Normal, it is reversed. If I set the throttle trim switch to normal, the throttle is reversed, and if I switch it reverse, the motor runs a full throttle, with the joystick in the neutral position! All the other trim controls are in the neutral position, as in the image. I have double checked all the wiring, and would really appreciate some help on what I am doing wrong.
    7 months ago by J Barry
    Forum
    Being Sociable.
    I have two steam boats, an Alexandra and a Tug which was destined for the bin, until my friend suggested that he may know someone who wanted it. I refurbished the boat and the steam plant went to Clevedon Steam who stripped it, reset the burner etc and added a few new bits, glass water gauge etc. The
    rudder
    is controlled by an electric motor, NOT a servo, so you have to return the motor to central after a manouevre, so you have to think well ahead of where you are, and where you want to be!!
    7 months ago by CaptainFlack
    Blog
    Emily P III
    This is another scratch build fishing boat. The hull is a models by design Cygnus GM33. 16th scale. This one will be a pure trawler. I am going for an aft wheelhouse this time! The prop shaft and
    rudder
    have been purchased but all other running gear will be shared with Emily P III.
    2 years ago by GrahamP74
    Forum
    Time to let go !
    For some time now, I've been addicted to purchasing beautiful things, particularly well made things, without much thought for my family, my job, or where the heck I'm going to put them ! On one such escapade I helped out with disposing of a small flotilla of very well made boats, with the intention of keeping one, and having made my decision on which one to keep, the rest must now sail away ! I must admit that I'm a sucker for 'plug N play' the easy way out possibly, but I really don't yet have the time to build a kit myself, which is my aim for the future . Ho Hum. Anyway, enough about me, what about the boats ? I hear. Well, the first is a very well constructed Model Slipway 1:43 scale Assurance Class WW2 armed tug. The model has sailed previously, but is presently only fitted with a motor,
    rudder
    servo and various wiring. It will of course need finishing in this respect. The build quality is excellent, and is as it should be, except for a little attention required to the rigging, as visible in the images. Also, the white I.D. decals are slightly flaking, on the port side ( now I am being picky, but that's about the extent of 'things to do'). I guess the initiated will know the spec. but if any further info is required, please do ask. I am open to very sensible offers for this, and the other boats that I will be releasing. I purchased a collection, to save them from a commercial brokerage, and to retain one for my own use, which is now the case. Please do ask any questions, or let me know if you need further images of any aspect of the craft. Of course, I will not post, and it will be advisable for a prospective buyer to view first. The boat is presently moored in South Manchester, with easy access from the motorway network. Best regards.
    7 months ago by Davecounty
    Blog
    PS Enterprise
    The Top deck is now complete. The hull is partially painted and the construction of the superstructure has begun and the
    rudder
    is now attached
    7 months ago by rcmodelboats
    Forum
    Slightly confused newbie
    Hi John, regarding the
    rudder
    , the 'Normal' and 'Reversed' designations are purely arbitrary. If you put a servo arm in one position on the servo, then remove it and place it at 180 degrees to the original position, the servo is reversed with respect to the original position. Try it with a spare servo and servo arm. The Normal/Reverse options on the transmitter are only there to allow for variations in servo to servo arm location variations. The 'Normal' designation is somewhat misleading. As far as the ESC goes, that is sorted by programming the ESC. That's my 2.7p worth. (5 cents Australian) Cheers, Terry
    7 months ago by terrymiff
    Blog
    Painting
    I must admit that the painting process is not my favourite. it takes so long and time is always at a premium due to work commitments. I rush it a bit so that the build can continue. I fitted all of the windows into the deck structure and covered them with the low tack film. I then primed, two coats, painted, two coats followed by two coats of lacquer. I am quite pleased with the results even though it is not perfect. I decided not to fit the deck until all of the electronics, including the ESC, battery and receiver had been installed. This is because one of the big problems with this model is the lack of room to work in once the deck is in place. Another problem I encountered was the fitting of the tiller cranks onto the
    rudder
    s. if the instructions are followed, it is almost impossible the adjust or remove them once the deck has been fitted. I solved the problem by reversing the cranks and bending the connecting wire to miss a bulkhead support. The screws can now be reached from the deck opening. I have now completed the majority of the painting and have started to assemble the remaining parts. Currently I am doing the wiring of the lighting and making a couple of circuit boards. There are a lot of wires involved so to reduce the amount I have decided to us e a common negative. (Cannot remember what this is called right now). There are still a lot of wires and they are mostly coming out from the cabin structure. I have decided to introduce some nine pin connectors to make cabin removal a lot easier. This is quite a big job and will take a little while. I really enjoy this bit. The results add that little bit of extra satisfaction when it all works as it should.πŸ€“ The top search light assembly came as a bit of a surprise. it is manufactured from nickel silver plate and requires soldering together. Even though I am a precision engineer, I have not soldered a box since I was at school. Once I stopped burning my fingers with the heat, I quite enjoyed the assembly even though it would have been useful to have an extra hand and took the best part of today to complete.😀 I can honestly say that I have enjoyed most of this build and even though earlier on I was thinking to avoid Aero-naut models in the future, I have changed my mind. They are very cleverly designed. I expect to complete this model some time in March. That would be the first for me to complete in recent times even though I have two others on the go and one new one in its box ready for a Summer start.😊
    7 months ago by MouldBuilder
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    I have just spent a couple of mins downloading and reading through the manual for your transmitter, Colin and I see you have limited mixing similar to the old Futaba 6A models. if it were me (going back to your original question) I would use this transmitter with a new receiver and fit these into your model and use tank steering as in the 4th diagram on that little image I put on of the electrical layouts. Very simple and straightforward. I think its channel 2 on your right hand stick used for
    rudder
    .
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    hi there Colin - to stop confusion and people suggesting things that are totally 'confusing' 😊 1. What type of 2.4 transmitter do you have, what make and how many channels. 2. Can you put a photograph of your
    rudder
    servo in the model and the actual plug that fits into the receiver. This servo may not be compatible with what you are trying to do.
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Hi Colin I use 1 motor to power both paddle wheels on my paddler like Roy but as the steering is a little challenging I have a clear plastic
    rudder
    extension that I fix onto the
    rudder
    with elastic bands only when sailing the craft. This assists steering and when the model is on display at home or whatever the extra bit of
    rudder
    is easily removed. Not a technical solution but it works and is almost invisible. Regards Chris G
    7 months ago by ChrisG
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Hi in the old days before mixers i seem to remember micro switches arranged one either side of the
    rudder
    helm When steering reached full helm one motor was switched out Cheers Ian
    7 months ago by TOWN3810
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Hi Colin, I have just been catching up on this commentary which was prompted by your initial question. in running my 'Forceful' tug I found that varying paddle speeds, i.e. a mixer, is unnecessary for steering. I run it with the paddles at the same speed, and the
    rudder
    handles the steering alone just fine. I wonder if you have run your model, and confirmed that you have to vary paddle speeds to turn? if so, another option is to replace the
    rudder
    with a bigger one. Roy
    7 months ago by Trillium
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks John, so much to think about, I will have to do some more research, your set up looks good, my motor's are gear drive to the paddles. They run at the same speed on one or two ESC's. if I use two sticks on the tx for tank steering what happens with the
    rudder
    . Sorry for my ignorance, multi motor control is very new to me. I'm still learning, with the help of the this site and the knowledge that the members are willing to share with us. Cheers Colin.
    7 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    hi ya Colin, sorry for the delay - but I am going to open up a can of worms here. Although a lot of people use the 'Y' tail or the 'W' tail mixer from MTroniks or other Companies to actually mix two speed controllers and a
    rudder
    movement in the marine environment, (personally) I don't think this is effective as a dedicated marine mixer. The reason for this, is, I built the Forceful tug a little while ago and I incorporated the 'W' tail mixer in it for independent control of the 2 paddles and the
    rudder
    and when this model did 'sea trials' 😊 on the lake & in the test tank (the bath) πŸ‘I was never 100% happy with this. it didn't seem to perform quite right, especially in reverse. The model seemed to go better in one direction than the other. One motor always seemed to lead the other motor so therefore the model would steer off course and you were always correcting it. When I eventually checked the speed of each motor individually with a tachometer I found that one motor was indeed increasing in revs so - I took out the 'W' mixer and went for tank steering (using 2 individual sticks on the transmitter). This was a lot better and saved the day at the lake. Then I wend and had a look at what mixers are available and yes there is the ACTion P94 which in my eyes is extremely expensive - but - there are one or two on Ebay market but also there is a guy called Alan Bond he runs a company called Forge Electronics and they make an independent mixer which I use myself. I find it extremely good. πŸ‘ the name of the game though is for yourself to try setting up the 'W' tail mixer and playing around with it or you could look at individual mixers that do not have the speed controllers built in with them i.e. there is one from ACTion as well, there is one from Forge and as I say there are 2 or 3 off the web market place. Have a look - here are a couple of pics of the Forceful and my set up. The speed controllers I am using in this tug are Electronize and it's Alan Bond's original mixer which used to be sold from Technobots - but he opened up business on his own and I will put a link on when I find it. http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/ http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/
    7 months ago by JOHN
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Evenin' Colin, Understand. But; Not sooooo expensive when you consider that you are effectively getting 2 ESCs in one compact board, plus the
    rudder
    mixer. With the Mtronics gizmo you still need the separate ESCs, which also makes the wiring messier!πŸ€” Taycol and converter board are packed up and will be on it's way to you per DHL this week. Ought to be with you before April!!πŸ˜‰ Look forward to the pics of the Commander renovation. The paddler looks neat as wellπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎 PS there are also outputs for controlling Smokers or Sound Modules on the AC board.
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks Doug, So right for the job, but so expensive, I am trying to use what I have or can get cheaply. As you know I am rubbish with electronics. This is for my latest aquisition, a vintage model paddle Steamer with individual paddle motors and a
    rudder
    . The old system of a digimax 4 needs updating. How's the taycol coming on, my first big show is at Easter and I was hoping to include the Sea Commander. Cheers Colin.
    7 months ago by Colin H
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Hi Colin, Try this version, P94 for brushed motors, from Action Electronics at Component Shop. Only throttle and
    rudder
    inputs with automatic mixing. I have one of these I intend to use for my long thin destroyer, or maybe the Graf Spee. Or the P40 for Brushless, same operating principle. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/action-electronics/mixers-multifunction.html. I may get one of these for my PT109. heers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.
    Thanks Ian. I'll get in touch with them. Good thoughts, but with my rheumatism I think controlling 2 motors separately and also the
    rudder
    would be quite difficult for me. Cheers Colin
    7 months ago by Colin H
    Directory
    (Yacht) Sea-Lite
    Acquired this Sea-Lite sailing yacht as a project. Everything works after a fashion but based on mixed reviews the intention is to replace the radio gear, winch and
    rudder
    servos and increase the keel weight (5/10)
    7 months ago by Mids-Phil
    Forum
    Emma C. Berry
    I need some help. I've successfully refurbished my static display Emma C. Berry model and added remote control. I have the sails on a winch loop, I have the
    rudder
    on a servo, I even managed to add a motor, and an extended keel with weight. The one issue that I have not been able to resolve is maneuvering under sail. Primarily, I cannot get it to move through the irons when coming about. She responds and the sails will luft, she might even catch some wind but she never makes enough of a turn to change direction. I've already changed out the
    rudder
    for the larger size on the plans. I've also tried extending the depth of the
    rudder
    . Bottom line, she is mainly being driven by the current. In this situation, by current I mean whichever way the wind is blowing the small lake. It is a local park lake and doesn't really have any inherent current. My one suspicion is the keel I added. It is doing its job to keep her upright and providing some resistance but in the end, the underwater current is overpowering her response to the
    rudder
    and/or trimming the sails. See Photo. I had originally wanted to incorporate a more rounded profile on the ends of the weight and the shafts but I remember reading somewhere that it isn't that critical Sails are per the plans and made from the material that came with the kit (25+ years ago). I even added a couple of sailor figures but we still can't establish control. 😭
    7 months ago by carpemoment
    Blog
    PS Iona - Steering
    Fairly standard stuff, the steering.
    rudder
    is made from brass and held to the stainless shaft with glue / pins. There's a chain drive from the servo to the tiller arm, both sides. Servo is accessed from the stern hatch lifting off, and the rear grid (3D printed) also lifts off. Despite having individual drive to each paddle, the
    rudder
    is quite useful for steering, although with paddles driven in opposite directions, Iona will turn on the spot. NiceπŸ€“
    7 months ago by Harvey Kitten


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