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bojo

fusion 40 scratch 1/12 scale two motors plus first sail last sunday 🤔no wind but good for testing not finished yet but well on the way

7 years ago by twofloats12

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burnt out

Glad to help👍😁

7 years ago by onetenor

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burnt out

> 😟 i have burnt out two es type http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=121173284235 they both got got caught around the main spline (came off the drum) have opened them up and found all ok except circuit bourd power in nothing out i took a bourd for a 90 degree servo and soldered that to the potentiometer and and was working well in rig on the bench put in the boat and now stopped can any one help we ideas as to what im doing wrong thanks mark

7 years ago by twofloats12

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burnt out

yes your right earth cable broke at pcb joint thanks 👍

7 years ago by twofloats12

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burnt out

Dry joints maybe Check your soldering again 😤

7 years ago by onetenor

Response

Toby Tug (previously a Seaport Workboat)

Sorry, didn't realise I hadn't answered this question! I used a mounted under the deck, with the line going through the central tube that the crane is mounted on. I had to add a piece of curved plastic to allow it to go round 90 degrees (half a piece of the inside of a ball point pen!) but it works well.

8 years ago by EricMB

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(Yacht) 36 Rater model yacht

Purchased at Henly on Thames wooden boat show in May 2016 again by my brother in law who likes to see me recycle old model boats. Thin GRP hull with stess fractures one mast and one thick canvas sail. Hull was coated with polyester resin and model aircraft wing cloth rubbed down and recoated with another application of resin rubbed down and painted with three coats Yellow machinery enamel after having been redecked with 1/16" ply fitted out with four turn and standard Futaba servo for rudder via flexible cable connection. As there are no restrictions on sail sizes and the original mast was in three sections at 196cm I replaced the centre 40 cm shorter in effect creating a no2 or B rig from Mylar type plastic sheet. Jib and Main made from four panels each and using a Claudio Gadget to create a curve in each sail. Having sailed on very calm day several issues presented themselves which need to be addressed in the sail department. Not too many photo's of this type about but I have found one on MYA website which I shall use to to make amendments i.e. new sails and gooseneck. (8/10)

8 years ago by Rex3644

Blog

model sail boat 36''

can any body give draws or information on fitting a to model.:: model was built by my father about 20 years a go. Never been in water so will play with my self but think I might sail better with winch for sails ???????

8 years ago by johncoe1

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Orange Mystery

Your Atlantis looks great. Thanks for info on Orange Monster. it belonged to a member of our group who died in May. I have been working on three IOM yachts also his, had one on the water for test run last week, going well. The on Orange has a switch driven by a servo, I assume this is reverse/stop/forward for the motor driving the drum. Long slim motor Monoperm? I'll wait until I've got the last of the IOM's going. This one needs new drum winch and servo and some rigging before it sails again

8 years ago by saga32

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Anchor

Do you mean a system to allow you to lower and lift an anchor via radio control? Generally this is a home build, wind the chain onto a drum and use a geared down motor you will need limit switches of some kind. You could use a drum type servo http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/sailwinches.html Your anchor needs to have some heft to cut down on tangles etc. On all the larger ships I have seen the actual mechanism is below decks so its hidden from view so your need is for function not show.

8 years ago by Haverlock

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Micro servo as continuous motor

Hi. You do'nt want the pot to move so you glue it in the nil position, when you want it to stop, centre the trim. I've used them for es on small sails. Regards Dave

8 years ago by EAGLE

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Toby Tug (previously a Seaport Workboat)

Here's the photos of the cord coming through the middle of the crane, connected to the on the bottom end. The bracket to get it to go round 90 degrees had to be modified as it started jamming with no weight on the hook, now a piece of bent tube cut in half as a channel.

8 years ago by EricMB

Response

Toby Tug (previously a Seaport Workboat)

As the turret is mounted on a hollow tube, this allows the cord to run through the middle of the crane, over the jib and down to the hook, and on the other end, attached to a so that the hook can be raised and lowered. Will add pics in a sec.

8 years ago by EricMB

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2 x ESCs

Thanks Mark and Haverlock. I never said you had to buy, I only pointed you in the direction of this very versatile TX, honest. 😀 As regards the two versions they are different in that the EU version has to check if a channel is free of conjestion before transmitting on that channel. It only applies to the EU and sets from abroad could have either system installed. The rule only applies to new equipment purchased after Jan 2015/6, I'm not sure which year, but you can continue to use any equipment that uses either system. Good news is you can very easily flash the required code to your Tx or Rx . if you do choose to buy a Taranis there are regular updates available that add new functions as the code is open source and there is a large an active source of modellers and programmers who make frequent improvements and additions. I have a non EU compliant Tx as it was purchased pre the dictat so I change any Rx I buy to suit my systems. My latest project is a 5' Schooner that uses a for the two main sails and a lever servo for the foresails. I control both servos from the left hand vertical stick with the winch in Rx ch2 and the lever in ch4. I can also take over control of ch4 by throwing a switch on the tx and using the left hand horizontal stick to control the foresails. I also have another switch to allow me dual rate on the rudder servo - make it easier to keep a straight line in a good blow. If you are buying from China there may be some UK charges to pay, but the sets are available from UK suppliers. I Googled and found several, including some on e-bay. They sometimes claim to be UK stock but it's not always the case, so you do need to check carefully and verify. if there is any mention of customs duty not their responsibility this may be an indication of non UK stock. Happy days Dave 😀

8 years ago by Dave M

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Servo current draw.

HI Steve Servos were originally designed for model planes and in the early days we typically had 4.8v DEACS for batteries with possibly 500Ma of current. Move on a few years and the position evolved to provide much more powerful power supplies and BEC circuits built into the Rx or Esc. Power was still limited and many rx bec's will only provide about 1000 ma. There are now several types and size of servo from the minature designed for park flyers to high power digital servos for large scale models. For most model boat applications we use standard analogue servos so I will confine my comments to this type. Each servo is capable of drawing quite high currents (

8 years ago by Dave M

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Pulsing ESC

Fantastic to have such specific help - thanks Dave! I'm slowly understanding more about servos and current.. I must admit the is running to one stop as the crane cable gets as close to the job as the stop allows, so I'll rejig this such that it doesn't work to a stop. The switcher is to gain an extra channel from the tx, one switch is for a spotlight on the crane when operating it, the other is for sound - it's rigged up to an MP3 player that plays a loop of sound - a bass tug horn! Thanks again for your help, I'll post a video of the boat working once I've cracked it - nearly there now I think!! Eric

8 years ago by EricMB

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Pulsing ESC

HI Eric I did suspect that you had something connected that was drawing too much current for the Mtronik BEC. To answer your question re separate battery you can either use the Mtronik built in BEC or use a separate battery. You cannot use both at the same time as the ESC will not function correctly. As the sail servo is causing the problem I suggest you remove the red lead from the sail servo that connects to The ESC and make a separate connection for the red lead to the battery (6V). That way the servo will be controlled by the rx but won't draw any power from the BEC. Put a 1 amp (or less) fuse in this line as if the servo stalls it may self destruct and the symptoms suggest this may be happening hence the pulsing. The BEC is current limited so will be switching on and off. As a point of interest you should never run a servo to the stops at the extreems of travel to avoid this happening. What is the two way switcher used for? Hope you are nearer to finfing a solution Dave 😀

8 years ago by Dave M

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Getting wiring to be neat

Hi My boat a twice scale Cariad, has two drum es, one arm , a steering servo, a speed controller and a motor. These have all been installed but not wired up yet. To wire them up I have a lot of wires! How would you fix these wires so as to look neat but functional? The first photo is the main board containing the motor, receiver and speed controller. There is also a bus bar where I was planning on having all the main electrical connections meeting up. The second photo is similar but looking towards the stern. Two of the es are just visible. The third picture is looking towards the bow where the other drum winch is installed (the threaded rod is for raising and lowering the mast for transportation). The last photo is of the rudder servo at the stern. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Edward

9 years ago by cenbeth

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Wiring Tamiya connectors

Thanks Derek. Would you recommend using a different sort of connector? The motor I am using is a mono perm and will not draw much (3A). I also have two drum es and one arm .

9 years ago by cenbeth

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How to sail yachts

HI Colin Not rocket science, very simple really. There will be a rudder servo and some form of winch to pull in and release the sails via cords, one for the mainsail and one for the jib. Winches can be either of the arm type or use a drum. Basic designs usually use a simple elongated arm on a powerful servo. Control is simply use of the rudder to control direction and use of the winch to control the sails, letting them out to catch the wind and to prevent the yacht from being blown flat. As you have already sailed yachts you will understand the basic principles of sail so the use of RC is an extension of free sailing with the ability to steer and adjust the sails. The cords usually join the boom near the mast and run to a fixing point along the boom with a bowsie attached to allow for initial adjustment. Both sides of the sail arm are used on dor the main sail and one for the jib. Be good to see some pics as this is very basic info and you might have a more advance system installed. Cheers Dave

9 years ago by Dave M

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HI Derek, Good luck with the build regards Bob 👋

9 years ago by Northumbrian

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HI All. I am returning to this hobby after about 30 years. I have a question that I would like advice on.. I am In the process of buiding Agnes a Pilot Cutter. What I need Is Info on what to use as the line on the winch drum. I had thought about using whipping twine but does anyone have a better Idea. Also how do you fix the headsail and jib sheets to this line? Thanks In advance Derek

9 years ago by Murlough

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HI Bob Thanks for that. Sorry for late post but was abroad for a few days. I have had a looksee at the Billings site and found it very good. I may well have a free day tomorrow and intend to crack on with the boat. I dont know why, but I everything on this project seems to take 10 times longer than it did to buld a powerboat 30 years ago. (they were fairly simple I think).. Anyway I intend to get down to the local fishing tackle shop and see about the line you reccomend in the morning. Rgds Derek

9 years ago by Murlough

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HI Derek, if you google the billings official site you can download on pdf all the info for the Vanadis & bluenose schooner showing every detail of the installation of the winches etc this helped me a lot this is the list BB100 US Coast Guard BB101 Royal Navy Life Boat BB200 Dana BB201 Rainbow BB397 Building Slip BB404 La Cancalaise BB414 Colin Archer BB430 Emile Robin BB432 Gothenburg BB437 Norske Love BB450 Half Moon BB472 Mary Ann BB474 Cux 87 BB476 Nordkap BB478 Smit Rotterdam BB490 Wasa part I BB490 Wasa part II BB492 Bounty BB498 HMS Victory BB500 Absalon BB502 Vanadis Part I BB502 Vanadis Part II BB504 NEW MODEL BB506 Faimount Alpine BB508 USS Constitution BB516 Banckert BB520 Slo-Mo-Shun IV BB522 Monterey BB524 Evelyn Rose BB526 Andrea Gail BB528 Smit Nederland BB534 Boulogne Etaples BB560 Calypso BB564 Cutty Sark BB570 White Star BB576 Bluenose BB578 Lilla Dan BB580 Marie Jeanne BB582 Dragen BB586 US Coast Guard BB588 African Queen BB592 Zwarte Zee BB600 Bluenose II BB601 Will Everard BB603 Norden BB604 HMS Renown BB605 St. Roch BB606 Colin Archer BB608 Andrea Gail BB609 America BB700 St. Canute BB701 FD 10 Yawl BB703 Roar Ege BB706 Winston Churchill BB710 Phanton BB720 Oseberg BB722 Hoogaars BB724 Martegeaux BB800 Regina BB802 La Curieuse BB820 Mayflower BB5003 Jylland BB5005 Danmark BB5006 Coastboat Bent

9 years ago by Northumbrian

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Thanks Bob. All good info. I have managed to get going on the boat again now, I had been stalled on where to position the winches and runs and rudder linkages bearing in mind ease of access to them as they are all below decks. I noticed that your steering is via the releiving tackles on the tiller. its a nice touch and one I may well copy as I have only half an inch between the top rudder bearing and the deck. I had manufactured a special steering arm to fit this space but yours is a better idea.

9 years ago by Murlough

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Derek if you do not use a winch that you can adjust the turns then you can use elastic to tension the lines or you can use a spring regards Bob

9 years ago by Northumbrian

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Thanks for the pictures Bob. its all coming a little clearer now. in one of the diagrams it shows an elastic section, is this the norm? BTW what material did you use for the shrouds? Regards Derek

9 years ago by Murlough

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Derek here are some more pictures that might help you

9 years ago by Northumbrian

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HI Derek, I sail 1 mtr & R6M yachts and use 70lb to 90lb fishing line when you set your drum winch pull you stick down to draw the line back then make a loop in the line about 1" from the end then use a bit line and attach it to the boom I use a bowsie for adjusting the boom swing tie the jib or jibs to the same loop I have posted the set up for a French crabber I hope this helps Bob

9 years ago by Northumbrian

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Falmouth Oyster Dredger

I have made the sails & starting to put them on winch servo fitted running line is on it runs around the top of the deck

9 years ago by Northumbrian

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Focus

Can anyone help me the Winch servo on the Joysway Focus. I have got a Focus hull with Rudder and sail servo fitted. What I do not have Is any Instructions as to how to connect the two sails to the Winch servo. I have had a look on line and pulleys are mentioned and continuous loop. Can anyone help.

9 years ago by randhbarker

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Joysway Focus Help needed.

I have a Joysway Focus In bits. The problem I have Is that I do not know how to connect the two sails to the winch servo. I have done a little bit of research,pulleys and the loop system has come up a lot but I can't find any diagrams to put me on the right track. Can anyone help.

9 years ago by randhbarker

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Falmouth Oyster Dredger

Kingston mouldings hull will post more pictures as I progress two more pictures with the sails on they need the running lines to the drum winch then it will be ready to sail

9 years ago by Northumbrian

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(Yacht) ''Moonraker''

Greatly modified" Moonbeam" pond yacht kit. There are at least seven of this model in our Club and every one is different! There are at least two rigged as schooners. This because whilst the hull is superb, the rest of the kit is poor. Improvements include changes to the standing and running rigging, sail areas, deck fittings and sail controls. All terylene sails are controlled by an eurgle winch operated system from a Spectrum DS 6I radio outfit. Ballast is 10lb of lead shot set in resin. Moonraker sails in the slightest puff and,suitably reefed, in quite strong breezes. (8/10)

9 years ago by commodore

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LOUIS HELOISE

Hi can anyone help me.This Is my first project at model boat building, the plan Is from traplet, the hull Is finished most of the R/C fitted but I need to know what Is needed to control the sails before I Install the decking, the traplet plans show 3 guide tubes fore ,aft and main but nothing to say what Is needed to control,do I need 3 winches or what. The Hull Is built plank on frame Mahogany and I have Installed an electric motor Thanks terijay

10 years ago by terijay

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LOUIS HELOISE

HI terijay How you choose to control your sails is down to personal choice plus you have already committed two controls, one for the rudder and one for the motor. if you have a four channel transmitter receiver this leaves two spare controls. I have tried multiple sail control on my Cariad but found little benefit and a great deal of concentration when sailing. Your model carries a fair amount of sail and whilst a sail lever system may cope a more effective solution would be a closed loop drum winch with the sails connected to the loop. This system has little chance of failure and provides plenty of pull to the sails even in a strong blow. I mount my winch servo on a board and run the cord from one drum round a pulley at one end of the board then to another pulley at the other end and back to the other drum. I find a piece of plastic electrical casing running between the pulleys acts as a good guide for a slider for attaching the sheet lines. Depending on the take off point you may need a return loop to keep both sails working the same way. You will only need about 6" of travel to allow your sails to extend to 45 deg. The other benefit is that you have only one sail control. I usually leave my fore sails to find their own position, using a rod or rope across the deck with the sail connected by a sliding loop and bowsie for adjustment. Good luck and please post details of your progress 😀

10 years ago by Dave M

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LOUIS HELOISE

HI Terijay Need some pictures, also what does the designer say about sail movement? is it 3 dial halliards to 1 winch etc, also the size of the hull. Lot of sail men on here who will take up the thread. Hope this will start the tread and get you a lot more help and advice Regards Mark

10 years ago by jarvo

Directory

(Yacht) Astra

My model was built in 1927 on one of the design hulls built by Camper and Nicholson in Gosport. The deck has been rebuilt, by me, to represent how she was in 1931 after conversion to J Class. With two es and a variety of sails, she sails every week on Needham Lake if there is sufficient breeze. (Motor: n.a.) (ESC: n.a.) (8/10)

10 years ago by NeilHodson

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bautier louis heloise

Hi this Is my first project at model boat building, the plan Is from traplet, the hull Is finished most of the R/C fitted but I need to know what Is needed to control the sails before I Install the decking, the traplet plans show 3 guide tubes fore ,aft and main but nothing to say what Is needed to control,do I need 3 winches or what. The Hull Is built plank on frame Mahogany and I have Installed an electric motor Thanks terijay

10 years ago by terijay

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(Yacht) J Class Yacht

Sourced a fibreglass hull for a J Class. Fitted out scaling up sails from the small version. Uses a standard servo for the rudder with a Hitec running a closed loop below decks. Really fast when moving and the clean lines slice through the weed on our pond. (8/10)

10 years ago by Dave M

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Tug Day

Thanks for a warm welcome, lovely lake and great facilities, a bacon and egg bitty with coffee beats getting up early. Shame I missed the tug towing but was going on to Southport for the Woodvale rally. Wanted to sail my tug Amsterdam but she's still not ready yet!!!! Great mix of boats on the water and a lot for sale on the bring and buy sale, Two traders one selling very nicely made winches and gun mounts etc, Skelmersdale shop was there supporting with a good mix of bits. Overall an excellent morning with a club wanting people to see what there doing

10 years ago by jarvo

Response

'' Elsie & Olwen ''

HI there Cap'n Jim, Glad you like it. The sails are all controlled by the winch line round the after deck. I'll try to post some pics soon, Cheers, Lubber.

10 years ago by lubberland

Response

'' Elsie & Olwen ''

HI Lubberland, A boat after my own heart! Looks really good. Like the level of detail, even if you can't see it on the water. Which sails are controlled by the winch? How successful is the sailing peformance with all that sail area aft? Regards, Cap'n Jim.

10 years ago by CapnJim

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(Other) Micro sail 'Half Footy' Scow

Built to see if I could fit it all into a hull length of 6" (150mm) and to then see if I could make it sail. I could and it does! Not the best sailor though but learnt a lot from it. Styrene hull, drafting film sails with a battery (4x AAAA) pod as ballast in the keel. 2ch RC, a minI as on main and foresail with a microservo for the rudder. See photo gallery for more. (5/10)

10 years ago by CapnJim

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'' Elsie & Olwen ''

A scratch built model of a Gloucester USA fishing schooner 1900 era. Pine plank on frame, 2 channel radio with a Lego 9volt drive unit as controlled each way by servo and micro switches, the deck is planked on a thin ply sub-deck and deck openings are sealed with Vaseline. The deep keel slides up into a box through the keel and secured with a bolt.

10 years ago by lubberland

Forum

2.4Ghz Yacht Radio Control System

HI Biggles I just bought a Dragon 65 and have sailed on a couple of occasions using the supplied radio. Works OK but is fairly basic and possibly better to have a two channel set on 2.4 with slightly better gimbals. As Stephen says there are cheaper options and any combo set should work well. The Rudder is fairly fierce and the supplied set has a 70% setting which helps at speed. Some of the cheaper sets don't have this facility so you may want to spend a bit more to get a set with more adjustments such as dual rate and EPA, useful to adjust the winch travel end point. This may have been your reasoning for selecting the Futaba. As well as GiantCod you may want to look at Howes offerings. If you Google RG65 there is a web site and details re mods etc. Great fun and sails very well with the other yachts on our lake. 😀

11 years ago by Dave M

Blog

Rethink on Ballast

The lead inside the hull made the model very heavy and difficult to handle. Other club members have been using detachable fiberglass keels on their yachts so got Brian to make me one. Had a right struggle removing the lead and needed to repair some damage to the hull, but all good now and detachable keel filled with lead and fitted to hull. The support is above the waterline inside the hull and is sealed with o-rings round the mounting post,top and bottom. 😊 Can now sail in most conditions but horror of horrors it was shipping water into the keel. 😟 Being a nice warm day yesterday managed to test in the tank at home and found the source(s). I had planked the deck and the edges were covered in some 1mm ply that was hiding some bad joints round the deck and the uprights. As a result any water on deck was finding its way into the hull. Stripped off all the 1mm ply and ran clear fiberglass resin in the gap between the planking and hull sides, filling any larger holes with scrap wood. Given another coat today and when fully sealed will make good and paint black as per the original 1mm wood. The second winch used for the foresails was a pain to use and has been removed - the sheets are allowed to set freely and each tensioned with a soft spring inside the hull.

11 years ago by Dave M

Media

albatross

Scratch built in 2004 from my own plan. Two layers of planks on ply frames, ply deck planked with 3/8 1/16 strips. Length of hull 50" by 13" breath. No motor sail only, winch for main & mizzen, sail arm for fore sails. Featuers a centre plate lowered by gravity and raized be a drum winch, also an expanding rudder, this has two servos to opperate. sails can be reefed or removed depending on weather conditions. Very good sailer Just goes in my car with the top mast & gaff boom lowered.

11 years ago by hammer

Response

no 94

HI Frank I have built model of jolie brise from plans I got from France made few years ago as static model, I have made uo a false keel that I can fit as and when I get round to making sails, have provision for steering via chords running thro the deck in tubes to the steering servo, as yet no thought as to how to install as have only small openings where hatches fit. you are right about her being pilot cutter and winning fastnet 3 times, she was however built by Monsieur Paumelle in 1913, I hope at some time to get her on the water. Regards Chiffs

12 years ago by chiffs

Response

no 94

HI Yes it is...I scratch built it using a GRP 'workboat' hull as a base. I used a simple drawing from the 'Jolie Brise' book blown up to size. I altered the bow, stern and the keel to match the drawing. The rig is slightly undersize and simple the keel is deeper, the deck layout is very approximate taken from photos but simplified to make it more robust for sailing. it has a winch for sail control and the rudder is controlled from the tiller via lines and blocks to a servo under the cabin top. As you probably know the boat was bought as a Le Havre Pilot boat by EG Martin who then instigated the Fasnet Race, which Jolie Brise won 3 times. Thanks for recognising it.....best regards Frank

12 years ago by frankburgess