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    Forum
    Mills crankcase
    Colin May I suggest that you cover up that Mills c/case. It will oxidise and the oxide won't protect it from water especially
    salt water
    .A crinkle/crackle finish or Hammerite smooth( or hammered if you prefer ) would suit.πŸ‘ When are you going to tell me what the proportions of diesel to Methanol were?πŸ‘.
    10 months ago by onetenor
    Response
    Thwarts
    Hi Norm, I can't prove it but I would have thought teak cos of it's close grain, natural oil and resistance to
    salt water
    . 'White woods' would be naturally more open grained, softer and absorbent, they'd have been constantly replacing them😲 cheers, Doug 😎
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Event
    ANGLE RNLI 150th ANNIVERSARY
    I have been asked to put on a Model Lifeboat Display for the 150th anniversary of the Angle Pembrokshire Wales,Station, 11th and 12th AUGUST 2018 this will be in a marquee close to the water so you can chose to display on or off the water or both NOTE
    salt water
    ! I am inviting Model Lifeboat owners from all over the country,and a few have expressed their interest already. Hoping to make it the biggest model Lifeboat Show in Wales for the year, and permission has been granted for all other model boat types to attend also There will be camping nearby, for tents motorhomes and caravans,and there is also a pub nearby and another in the village as well as a cafe for your food or possibly accomodation if wanted. I will be advertising it on various model boat websites and magazine. I would certainly like you to come if you can manage it.Set up day is the 10th,and I am sure if you wanted to come a day or so earlier we can arrange it for you. There will be at least three Historic Lifeboats attending,hopefully more,which will include the ex Angle Watson Lifeboat. The event will be part of the Angle Regatta Week, so many other types of craft will be attending There is also a Beer and Cider Festival at the same time,and Live Music Please give me a ring on 01209 820844,or private message me to let me know your thoughts. Look forward to hearing from you Sincerely, Mick French
    2 years ago by battleshipbuff
    Forum
    1940 Chris Craft
    My wife and I were in Gig Harbour, Washington State today where we were invited onboard by the owners of this beautiful boat. They told us, it is on the water most of the year in Seattle. The boat is varnished every two years. It requires continual care as the
    salt water
    is corrosive. Also seen was a nifty outboard; even the outboard motor cover is made of wood. A group of friends were seen enjoying a dockside luncheon. They said β€œPlease take our picture” Very nice inboard Runabout.
    1 year ago by Ron
    Forum
    Fire Boat (crash tender) colours...
    Elsrickle, sound like you have the 34 1/2" Aerokits Crash Tender, as do I. There very few photos of them and even fewer that show good details. As to colours, Doug and I agree that the greys used seem on the best photos to show a very light cabin sides, but darker decks and tops which are non-slip. mturpin013, I think the non slip paint stops short of the half round edging to the cabin tops. I would assume the half round is to stop water gathering at the edges and causing premature rot, although of course a bit of
    salt water
    is good for wood. I would like to get some decent reference for the derrick which is apparently portable. Most of all, I would like to get my damned RC gear to work or it's back in with 27 meg and to hell with the bind that is binding. Cheers, Martin
    1 year ago by Westquay
    Response
    Solent RC Model Boat Club at South West Model Show
    Hi Gerry, Easy answer, light machine oil. 3in1 or similar, dont use WD40, also grease can be heavy and cause drag on the shafts, oil all the way, especially if you sail in
    salt water
    . Mark
    1 year ago by jarvo
    Forum
    Prop shaft
    I make my own prop shafts. If you do use steel bar you will need to service the shaft frequently as it will rust inside the proptube. The real problem is the rust may damage the bearing when you remove it to clean. If I can I use 316 marine grade stainless as it is more resistant to rust in salt environments. 303 grade will work but in my experience shows signs of rust over time, especially if your water is saline. I have used phosphor bronze but you do need to check the specs as suggested above. Some can be exceptionally hard and may cause wear to the shaft. Acetyl is very good but it comes in two variants and I have found Delrin to be more resilient and just as easy to machine. You can read details of the two types at https://www.directplastics.co.uk/about_plastics/why-choose-acetal-or-delrin. We actually used a type of white Nylon on our six club model tugs which have been running since 2007 at shows where we give the public a chance to have a go. Some of the motors have required replacing but the bearings are as good today as when first installed.
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Forum
    rising damp
    Glad to hear the rx is working. All lake water contains salts and when an electrical circuit board gets wet the salts deposit on the tracks. Whilst drying often restores the Rx to a working state it may not be 100% due to residue as kmbc says above. I open the case and use iso Propyl Alcohol and a stiff paint brush to clean any boards that have been exposed. This ensures the board is clean and reduces the chance of further failure. Another problem that might develop is the black wire syndrome so dismantling allows you to check the connection. I use WD 40 on the plug to drive out any water.
    1 year ago by Dave M
    Response
    The Vosper 46” RAF Crash Tender Kit By Vintage Model Works
    Dear Modellers and builders of the Vintage Model Works kit series. You will find my earlier pictures and various writings on the original earlier postings by me in OZ of my still some 30/plus years Crash Boat in which I wore out several I/C motors and my girl still runs in
    salt water
    at the local LAKE ILLAWARRA in New South Wales and you are somewhat fortunate with ready made fittings. I did not ever know of the "page" ( wish I had a copy ) on your wall of the rear well of fire hose details and fittings , wow what a bonus, as a colonial had several years till Peter Dimberline and I had contact and he helped me to authenticate my vessel. The ESSENTIAL secret of the Crash Boat is the spray rails. So many look toy in the videos and TOOOOOOO fast . The spray rails are doubled at width protruding from the hull and lesser at the point of "rise of the wood " towards the upper bow point. The depth is not too critical at a bit of about an eighth of an inch thickness or a bit thinner for the whole length as you do not want to see a "thick log ", rather again it is the width rather than depth. I know I have written on this before on this webb site in the past. The turns thus on the go become when starting on and STAY more on the go are more flatter rather like a full sized hull which has a planing/ flatter hull turn to the flatness of the water than a typical poorly behaving model boat hull which invariably heels TOOOO much and somewhat digging in , (in turns). The HARD CHINE hull design was meant to not only rise to a comfortable plane attitude but ALSO to turn without that annoying behaviour of "digging in" when it should still perform and exhibit that hard chine design attitude when in a turn . "Digging in" equals water resistance AGAINST the hull and loss of performance and loss of plane attitude and against wave resistance when the hull designers team is trying to maintain hard chine performance in the forward turning direction. I harp on this point that this hull design is one to respect . The older I get the more I expect of all my model machines that I am lucky to see on computers, as we certainly have more need to respect the masters, the likes of Peter Du Cane and T E Lawrence and Hubert Scott Payne of Vospers and Thornycroft and The British Power Boat Company and ELCO and Higgins, all of whom I have researched so much over my life and I have been to the memorial of Lawrence in the desert in Wadi Rum. I try to do it right. Regards to all builders Lyle. My mates and I have to run in 2 to 3 inch chop at times, such is the Lake Channel ! My wife has reminded me that some of my fleet do seem to have BLACK hulls and I only would build one model boat, when I bought the Aerobats Crash Boat home, the pictures are of some of my scratch built fleet.
    2 years ago by Lyle
    Forum
    new brighton model boat lake
    Hi Steve Its fresh water but the much larger Marine Lake a quarter of a mile up the road is
    salt water
    . I don't know if you are allowed to sail models there. I used it once in the 1990s with a fast electric but had to flush out the cooling system after. Went in the early morning when it was quiet so I didn't get spotted. Boaty😊
    2 years ago by boaty
    Forum
    new brighton model boat lake
    Looks a nice lake ...Is it
    salt water
    or fresh water
    2 years ago by Captain-Steve
    Directory
    (Yacht) Seawind
    Build this Seawind in the mid nineties, and as you can see sailing in the salty conditions in coastal waters can easily kill an unprotected reciever... (nowadays equipped with an extra Spektrum 2.4Ghz reciever - like all my boats so switching models is easy) This boat has also 19 x 0.1mm stays instead of the standard stuff. (5/10)
    2 years ago by Radiosailor
    Forum
    new brighton model boat lake
    As I recall New Brighton model boating lake it is only about 2' deep. I fell in once. in fact was pushed in when I was about 10. I was tall for my age and when I stood up it only came up to mid thigh. They might have made it deeper though when they revamped it. Re Rhyl Marine lake. I'm not absolutely sure but I think is only a few feet deep and wadeable.It has to be for public safety .Novice boaters being what they are etc. Originally marshland it was turned into a water park with slides etc. An additional reason for being shallow I think. it is the only salt-water lake left in North Wales.Along side the lake runs the oldest miniature railway in Britain. . Nice steam engine. Could be more than one. Here is the site https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g616283-d3783136-Reviews-Marine_Lake-Rhyl_Denbighshire_North_Wales_Wales.html Enjoy with family. There are lots of other attractions round the corner on prom road. Enjoy
    2 years ago by onetenor
    Forum
    new brighton model boat lake
    Hi, New Brighton lake is a great venue, very easy access, I live in North wales and Rhyl council allow model boats on the marine lake as long as there are no water skiers using it , it is
    salt water
    though and huge, if you break down you would need a rescue boat Real or R C. Eirias park Colwyn Bay has an excellent model boat lake open to the public.πŸ‘
    2 years ago by lindowbunny
    Forum
    RC Boats in
    salt water
    Thanks I have passed along your suggestions plus sent them a link to the Victoria Model Boat club or VSSS.
    2 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    RC Boats in
    salt water
    My niece lives on Vancouver Island, B.C. on the waterfront. They wish to use RC boats with their two boys, but are not sure about introducing the boys into the hobby if it is done on
    salt water
    . They tried some toy rc boats but found they did not like
    salt water
    . I have been told the boats need to be washed in fresh water after use. What advice could I pass along to them?
    2 years ago by Ron
    Forum
    RC Boats in
    salt water
    Hi Grandpa, further to Dave M, depending on the boats you choose, drill a small hole in the prop shaft, just before the inner bearing, this would allow a spray of WD40 type oil as a cleaner then a couple of drops of lub oil for the bearings. Like Dave said, flush with fresh water,
    salt water
    will ruin the prop shafts within days, if its left. Regards Mark
    2 years ago by jarvo
    Forum
    RC Boats in
    salt water
    Hi Grandpa I agree with canabus, but toy boats may not have oiler points on the prop tube and to protect the shaft and bearings I suspect you would need to remove the shaft after each sail and run fresh water thro the prop tube to remove all the salt which will otherwise dry and crystalize. The salt crystals will then act similar to sandpaper and ruin the bearings, I know I speak from experience!😭 Once clean let the water drain then lube and spray as suggested. I do hope the boys are able to enjoy their models Regards Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    RC Boats in
    salt water
    Hi Wash in fresh water with a bit of soap and lube the drive shaft. WD40 spray around the prop and rudder. For lube I use plumper silicon grease as it is water proof.
    2 years ago by canabus
    Forum
    ORCA
    Hi Dave, its Hoylake, Wirral, whilst filled with fresh water, on the odd high tide as its right on the beach (hence lifeboat station on the background) it does get
    salt water
    in it Jaws, well here is the thing, remember MMB subsonic submarine kits? I bought one, and never got it to work. I have a box of bits, jus wanted it to dive to dorsal fin depth, and surface, it would be a cool project. I nearly got there, but gave up If anybody want to do a commission build, let me knowπŸ‘
    2 years ago by pmdevlin
    Forum
    ORCA
    Hi Paul Very atmospheric, what with the sounds and smoke. Just need to make Jaws now! Is the lake saltwater? How do you access? Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Battery problems
    Hi Allan Sound like a good solid set up. The smaller prop will work much better with the brushless. I hear what you say re seawater, but I believe I would hose the model down after each sail just to be sure all the saltwater was removed. Looking forward to the video when you get the opportunity Cheers Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Battery problems
    thanks Dave i got a seaking 120a watercoold brushless ESC by Hobbywing which handles the power well. Same motor as before got a 38m 2 blade prop looking for a 3 blade. i was originally useing the 12v battery to run the motor but it was no good now use a lipo which i have installed under the deck in front of the motor.the large battery is running the watercooling pump and is also the prefect weight for ballast.NO problems with the
    salt water
    as i have got stainless steel, brass and copper fittings and a good flush threw the cooling system with fresh water. might be some time before i can put up a video because the council is draining the pool next week for the annual winter maintenance which is a bummer as there other suitable ponds handy. cheers Allan
    2 years ago by Patto
    Forum
    Battery problems
    Hi Allan Glad to hear you have managed to get the boat running. Just so we know what is the final set up? I can see a 12v 7Ahr battery but What is the prop size & type, brushless motor, ESC. You have mentioned these before but may have bought different recently. Looks a good pool to use. As it is saltwater you will need to wash the model down after each sail and oil the propshaft. Salt crystals will destroy any bearings very quickly if you don't. Happy sailing Dave
    2 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Battery problems
    FINELY got my Perkassa running this afternoon after spending about $200.00 on new ESC, prop and stainless steel coupling ( the plastic one shattered on the last run in about 2 seconds). I have got to much power in it but the boat runs at about scale speed on about half throttle. I am running in a saltwater swimming pool on the beachfront at Wynnum Central which is a bay side suburb of Brisbane Queensland Australia. Cheers Allan
    2 years ago by Patto
    Forum
    from the Philippines
    @figtree7nts - I'm planning to build a USV type of boat with general specs; *catamaran type hull (not yet sure of the dimensions but based on my own research maybe L- 58", beam - 20" for each hull) *long range (20-30kms) *cruise speed (3-4 km/h) on board components *FPV cameras (at least 2) *motors (not sure what type but I'm leaning more on electric than gas) *GPS and antennas for long range capability. i want to start with the basics first and probably will include add-ons in navigation in the future. i just want to have a reliable running platform at first. it will be used in
    salt water
    environment. I'm thinking of a twin hull to make it more stable out in the waters. it will not be deployed in rough weather but i think it would be better to have a twin hull for stability. I already have a Taranis Tx and Rx which i used for simulators before. thanks for link on the website. indeed they have lots of stuffs. my only concern is they are based in England so i will pay for multiple export fees until it reaches the Philippines(sad reality) From England they will have it delivered in the US(virtual address) then from the US to my country through a local courier. I cannot let the store deliver it directly to the Philippines because the Customs here will surely rain me with custom's taxes and it will require me to personally pick up the items. but i'll give it a try first and see the difference. it will be my first time to order on UK based websites.
    2 years ago by analyst
    Forum
    Anchor Chain
    Hi Steve, In the past I've taken small chain like that and I've put it in a cup of sea water. it all depends how much salt is in the water. keep it in the water about two weeks or even longer. the sea water will oxidize the chain naturely, it just take time. Or Next best thing is to paint it, you could probably go to your local hobby shop and buy a weathering kit. which will have rust paint availible in the kit. Ed
    3 years ago by figtree7nts
    Forum
    Handrail
    for added realism paint it a rust colour before the paint fully dries sprinkle on a little salt, once the paint has dried paint with 2 coats of top colour. Once they dry lightly sand and wash with water. the sanding breaks the paint over the salt and water washes it off. Now you have rust spots. if you HATE the effect a layer of topcoat wil cover it.
    3 years ago by Haverlock
    Response
    Thorneycroft 72 'MTB (Vic Speed)
    Out here in the colony I have the Veron FPB ( 56inches?)S C40?/45 now from OS 55? and big heavy, a SC 45 and my Aerobats Crash Tender 46 inches which has over the years had an OS 35 , a 40 of some sort and now a SC 46 and a VERY heavy model and a Seaplane tender at 49 inches a SC 40 all running in
    salt water
    at Lake Illawarra with my mates NSW Australia. Your hull at 72 inches ONLY needs a 40 or so/45 for power , We overpower our models too much, I just wore out my earlier motors over the many years and only 4:1 methanol and castor never was a nitro fan , but now my pestering mates nagged me to 3-5 % nitro as an oxygenator in my many motor boats ( incl steam and a sneaky small electric which in early trying to learn to sail to manoeuvre in my 50" thames Barge, now it is ballast). Hope this all help or I suffer your wrath. Yes we all run additional mufflers/resonators ( equal to quiet running of electrics ) and share the pond .Cheers Lyle.
    3 years ago by Lyle
    Response
    R.A.F Vosper Fire Boat
    Hope the searchlight now has a white ( painted body) as red is not scale. I think my early Fire Tender photos are somewhere in the picture gallery as some of the first/early photo's when Peter Timberline was out here in Australia and staying with us. regards Lyle. Nice model of yours. I opted for a lighter shade of Decking colour rather than the Blue water Navy blends. My girl now has its 4th Glow-plug engine after wearing the others out and is still running after some 40 or so years now and only the second prop shaft. Also, my vessel only has the luxury of
    salt water
    to operate in and I take a garden pressure sprayer with bi carb soda added to the flushing water at the shore. All the best runs.
    3 years ago by Lyle
    Forum
    Puffy lipos
    One way that is allowable for disposal, is to place in a bucket of salty water overnight. This discharges the cells. And as there is nothing dangerous in the lipo. Place in your non recycling bin. I always cut the wires short after soaking. I did have an instance of a lipo fire whilst charging. Thinking afterwards that I may have had the charge rate set too high, but will never know as it destroyed the charger also.
    3 years ago by Derek
    Media
    Khetanna
    Guess most of you have heard of the Khetanna, Jabba The Hut's sail barge from Star Wars. I looked around on the net and to my big surprise, the search engines did not spit out radio controlled versions of this model. Which made me think, and then decide to built my own. It is scratch build, based on a "scudder" hull, a design by Glenn G. I printed a few pictures of Khetanna from the net and used those for guidance in the process. The superstructure is a combination of balsa and ply wood. in the Star Wars tradition, the boat is propelled by a jet propelled engine. To finish it off, a Lego version of Jabba was added for extra detail. It was a fun and fast project to built, maybe a dozen or so evenings. (scratch) building is my passion and only sail the boats with my son about once a month. We've got a pond near Newcastle (AUS) harbour which is pretty good (providing there's no weed in it) but the disadvantage of this pond is
    salt water
    , meaning a proper rinse of the models is needed after each sailing session. Recently we have moved our sailing sessions as well to the liberty pond in town. The model captures the audience, the vast majority recognize the Khetanna immediately. Happy sailing. Jeroen
    4 years ago by clogboy
    Forum
    CLUB 500 BOATS SHAFTS SEIZING
    I to have two early club 500 and touch wood never had a problem. I have used my boats several times on canoe lake Portsmouth which is
    salt water
    and lots of times on our local lake. They must now be supplied with different shafts strange?
    4 years ago by tidtug
    Forum
    CLUB 500 BOATS SHAFTS SEIZING
    Mine is among the first produced years ago by Slipway. Never had a problem. Still original shaft, and I sail on a
    salt water
    lake. Always used Vaseline by heating in hot water, then drawing into a syringe. Leave to cool. inject into hollow tube. Then insert shaft. Are you leaving a bit of lateral movement on the shaft once installed.
    4 years ago by Derek
    Forum
    Round Table Class Sir Kay Minesweeper (1:48 scale by Caldercraft)
    HI saltysnogbad If you can find a model boat club near to home it might be a good idea to attend one of their sailing sessions and ask for help. The Caldercraft kits are very good but you will need some guidance to help you fit the basic construction. As you intend to sail the model it would be a chance to see other models on the water and examine how others have constructed their models, and see what radio gear they are using. Unless you are intending to fly a model plane modern RC 2.4 Ghz sets will have more than enough range. Howes Models website have some good multichannel sets that work just as well as the dearer offerings from Futaba and Spectrum, with the added benefit that additional receivers (for other models) don't cost an arm and a leg. Good luck with your build, and please keep us posted with your progress. You can, of course, ask on the forum for any specific help you require. Dave
    4 years ago by Dave M
    Forum
    Too many questions
    Hello Dave, I did try to start a build blog, but once started I was never able to find it again. I will log out and back to see if this resolves itself. I am not so hot with computers. I did try to load some pics. One of the boat I am roughly trying to model, and one of the C-face motor to stern tube mounting system I built today. it features a lip seal on the motor end of the tube to keep the
    salt water
    out, and I will load the tube with a bit of water proof grease as well. I am a bit concern d that the torque will turn the tube adaptor in the tube, so I made the bearing that fits in the tube about 3" long, and will use a loctite product to seal, and "glue" itself in place. Steve
    5 years ago by PikaSteve
    Forum
    Too many questions
    Hello Dave, and thanks for your help. The motor is actually a MabuchI RS-755VC-4540 and is rated 50 watts at nominal 18 volts, but available to operate at 9-32 volts. 18 volt loaded speed is 7500 rpm, so I hope not to need all 18 volts to get the power I need. As I understand it, the loaded rpm will drop with proportionately with the volts, so a 9 volt pack would be 3750 rpm, for a final speed of 1500 rpm. 12 volts then would be a final full speed of 2000 rpm. This still seems high to me but perhaps as we scale down things speed up? Yes very much want good "very slow" performance, so I think I will go with this brush motor package, and see how it goes. Does 12 volts sound like a good place to start? Motor stall current at 18 volts is 22 amps, (full load is 4) and I suspect that as the volts used drop, the amps drop faster, so I suspect that at 12 volts, a 30 amp speed controller would be lots?. By the way, my stern tube is fully submerged and well below my waterline at both ends as I wanted the thrust to be in line with the boat. My stern tube has no seal, just a brass bushing on each end. Being
    salt water
    I want things pretty tight so am considering taking out the bushing on one end and replacing it with one I machine, that gets bigger on the motor end and has a machined area such that I can fit a 1/4" X 1/2" double lip seal for positive sealing. Fill the rest of the tube with waterproof grease mixed with some oil so it does not get too thick? Futaba 4 channel radio the "go to" radio? I would like a non returning stick for fast and slow, as well as non returning (not sprung back to middle) for the steering as when pushing objects, one often has the steering off center for quite a length of time. I tried to add a picture of the nozzle, but so far it does not look to have worked. Also wanted to show a picture of the keel and "Jaws" on the bow. The keel is 1" thick X 3/4" stanless steel bar, and acts as a shoe for the Kort nozzle. At the bow the jaws are this same stanless steel bar, but with angled jaws ground into it so one can "dig in" to a log and push it for the end or side. Thanks again for your thoughtful reply. Steve
    5 years ago by PikaSteve
    Forum
    Speed controller
    Looks like the speed controllers are beginning to arrive. Lets hope they all survive the hard work we put them through. The original ones I purchased are still all performing well despite one getting
    salt water
    ingress through the join and leaving a slight salty deposit on the circuit board; viewable through the transparent back. It was NOT in one of my boats I might add!!!
    5 years ago by 4clubs
    Forum
    fireboat update
    well done Alan!! now no more excuses, its time to get it wet, its not an ornament!! πŸ˜€ πŸ˜€ and stay away from
    salt water
    after all that effort with the fittings, I only sail in Buxton bottled water, ask Stephen and Dave M, I do a water cleanliness test beforehand ☺️
    5 years ago by pmdevlin
    Response
    Cariad Sailing after refit
    Paignton, in Yongs Park only in the winter as there is a concession for motor boats in the summer. The Exeter club's new pond is almost surrounded by trees over hanging the water, no good at all for boats with no motor. This summer I am going to try the river Teign (
    salt water
    tidal). I will have to loan a friends 16ft boat incase things go wrong and the model goes out to sea. Thinking about things, your motor although low down will give your boat a higher C of G to mine. My ballast is chips of sheet lead mixed with cement, spread along the bottom. I must confess I sold Spray on Ebay Β£250. Was the only fiberglass hull I had. Needed the room. I still have a Sailing trawler,4ft pilot cutter cutter 4ft, Topsail schooner 3ft, all plus bowsprit, & 2 paddle steamers 5ft & 6ft both steam. Only the schooner has a drop keel. πŸ”¨
    5 years ago by hammer
    Directory
    (Working Vessel) Shotton
    Steam Coaster built by Coppacks at Selby in 1912. Originally for the fruit trade from France. Later re-named, then eventually ran aground off the Scottish coast with a cargo of Carbide, took on water and exploded. This model is Sailed in a weathered condition on
    salt water
    which keeps her that way. (Motor: Graupner 540) (ESC: Electronize) (10/10)
    7 years ago by Derek
    Response
    ASL British Pwer Boat Co
    Hello from the colony, I have the ASR whaleback from the old model boats plan and did the turrets from what were full glass type egg cup shaped domes which luckily had a glass moulded "o ring "base , I epoxied a brass plate to the glass side which had brass machine gun barrels already soft soldered and with gun flash muzzels etc . The skeletal framework of the glass domes were hand painted with humbrol or tamiya paints of gun metal with black streaks etc and the whole lot epoxied to a circular inner base which had a pre fitted centre bolt so that the turrets are able to traverse etc. The 15 to 18 years now vessel has a second ( first wore out) os 10 FSR marine glo engine ) standard fuel Ie no nitro) and in OZ we have to run in
    salt water
    ,so flushing is Important and the exhaust goes into a stern muffler so the exhaust actually exits the transom as per original in six exhausts. She weighs about 3 lbs or so and very quiet and good in rough water as a flush decker water over the deck sometimes enters the hull in very rough water, so she is well painted all inside , about 4 to 6 coats or more as I forget. I have seen salt and pepper glass shakers in antique shops as well, as old radio valves which would do . The "small coastal forces" webb site is great research. All the best Lyle.
    7 years ago by Lyle
    Response
    veron fast patrol boat
    HI Ian, thanks. As regards LIPOs I use Turnigy 2200 $40-40c Discharge. I have doubled them up in the boat 4400 11.1v. So good capacity, no more power. No problems with the brushed engines. On my Veron Huntsman, 52" again, with a brushless no problems, but I have used 20-25c discharge and they puffed up, I can still use them on low powered aircraft, flying time is just down a tad. So get the biggest mAh battery you can afford, with the biggest discharge available you shouldn't have any problems, just don't get
    salt water
    near them. As far as costs a re concerned go for reputable supplier, I only use Turnigy, in the early days I used various suppliers but I was Ignorant and did most of the damage myself!! so I can't blame the battery, but I do know that Turnigy are pretty bullet proof, but if you want a recommendation I would go for A123's but make sure you can charge them from your existing charger, (LIFE4 is how I charge mine), good luck Brian
    7 years ago by sharpy1071
    Response
    46' Vintage RAF Crash Tender Re-do.
    It helps if I spell BREADTH correctly . My 30 year old 46 inch crash boat is pretty heavy at 25 pounds or so and with the widened ( not thickened) hull chines gets up on the plane very quickly at low power and stops that ugly "model boat spray effect" that shows a gigantic wash wave at the fore hull oversized to the proportions of the model. it works on my; I/C 49 inch scale BPBCo Type II Seaplane Tender, I/C Sea Queen,Electric Sea Rover, I/C Veron Fast Patrol boat, Model Boats plan I/C British Power BoatType II 'Whaleboat', Vic Smeed I/C Range Safety Launch and the Model Boats 'Black Marauder'I/C, which are all over 18/20 years young and as we do not have mill ponds in the Colony of Oz. I boat in the Channel to Lake ILLawarra ( look it up on Google Earth) which is ALL
    salt water
    my models have to be designed tough to avoid corrosion, which is easy.I flush the cooling pipes at the site with fresh water mixed with BI carb Soda and dishwashing detergent. At home my models are cleaned with a typical plastic kitchen spray puff of fresh water mixed with plain vinegar (this vinegar and water recipe is promoted by non allergy/non chemical cleaning TV shows) and just wiped down with paper serviettes used at parties in 500 packs. The vinegar mix also CLEANS the engine bays of fuel oil (and on my STEAM boats) of all residue as well. Regards Lyle.
    7 years ago by Lyle
    Response
    46'' RAF Crash Tender new kit
    HI Dean Not had much experience with salty water. The club used to sail on Nantwich Lake, Cheshire and that had a salt spring right6 in the centre of the lake. 😟 As Gregg has suggested (in another post) you should cover your finished paint job in clear sealant. I can't remember any members with paint problems but anything ferric (metal) used to rust even the cars parked alongside the lake. 😰 The main problem is with the running gear. The salt crystals that form as the water evaporates ruins most bearings. 😰 I used to hose off all my models at home but without much success. I was sailing one of my models today and this has suffered the very same problem, resulting in more water inside than I am comfortable to allow. I will have to remove the complete shaft assembly and fit a new one. I now make my own stuffing boxes at the shaft motor end so hopefully I will avoid this problem in future. πŸ˜‰ The model marine IC fraternity must have a solution as they often sail in coastal waters. (OMRA)
    7 years ago by Dave M
    Response
    46'' RAF Crash Tender new kit
    HI Dave, Many thanks for you advice, I am taking pictures all the way through so will start a blog soon. I will have a good look at the info you gave me. What would be the best paint to paint the Hull with? I am using mainly on
    salt water
    . Many thanks Dean
    7 years ago by Stonemonkey
    Forum
    old age
    Firstly,once its fully painted, go over all of thwe paintwork again with a satin finish clear cote, so you loose the original high gloss finish. Then, id really suggest you go look at some boats in a local [or nearest harbour] first. just to gte some good ideas as to how the rust lines show [and dont show], how the rusty streaks, drop down from fittings, windows, handles, bulwark apertures etc. its not a science, but too much "rusty paint" and the model is ruined, but if you are going to do it, then much better to get some background pictures to help you along. I did find the "tamiya weathering paint trays" very good and easy to apply. the paint is virtually a "dust" and you apply it with a fine brush and simply "dust it on", then you can also use a firmer brush to "smear" or "streak" the rust lines and also by lightly using your finger, you can fade the rust streaks in to the surrounding paintwork. Dont forget to get the deck volour right and remember to add "wear" to the "well worn paths" of the crew, so step edges, door frames, handrails all get a beating in time. you may also find that the odd bit of a slightly different hade of paint , especially on hard wearing areas of the deck or hull may of been repainted whilst in dock, so slightly different [or newer] looking paint tones work too. Ive attached a few pics of my own RMAS Moorhen, which is a naval mooring buoy maintenance vessel, just to give you some ideas. you can see the original green colour of the deck, but with use, its now more rust than paint, the windows show signs of rusty lines as the water has dripped off thew window frames. the lifeboat platform frame also shows signs of ageing, where
    salt water
    has lain on them. All ideas for this were taken from actual photos of the real vessel, so again, a look at some "working boats" will help you trememdously, as there is no real "golden book of rules" for weathering, expcept for one ...... "apply weathering in small stages", as you can alway add more, once dry, but you cant take it back off, you have to start all over again.
    7 years ago by Gregg
    Response
    Rother HAIG and Arun Edward Bridges
    Brilliant! Can you tell me what the lake at Portishead is like? I had heard that it is partly
    salt water
    , or is this a myth?
    7 years ago by tompallister
    Response
    RAF Crash Tender
    Hello all you Fire Boat restorers, I carefully noted the rather belled style of the vents as less streamlined as compared to the bought ones and when the vent front edge is carefully sanded flush, I found suitably thickened in section, silicone "O rings" from my big box of multiple o rings pack as sold by car part and engineering shops. A small piece of plasticine was used to hold the rings in place and super glued to affix.With care the small dab of holding plasticine was uppermost to not stick as the glue ran around down due to gravity. When a few hours later the usual re paint of the modified vent was done,the paint adhered. I Oz I have to run in
    salt water
    at the lake entrance and no effects at all ( obviously). I love my I/c Fire boat ( some 34 /39 years or so) with its third engine now and I still cannot help myself as I did hinges for the rear hatch roof to now open. All the best for detailers. When Peter Dimberline stayed with us some years back he ran it at ballistic speed, which shocked me as I run it just up un the plane. (Secret) you can cheat and add an extra wide strip along the chine up to almost an additional 1/8 inch extra wide without visual loss to the lines of the vessel to help her get up and stay in a hard chop as mine is the 46 inch version and some 18 to 20 pounds in weight, so perhaps the smaller 34 inch version and electric may benefit from this idea as the smaller versions tend not to sit too well and seem too far out of the water exposing too much of the f'd keel for some reason? I really enjoy all the Fire Boat resurgence of you guys. Lyle.
    8 years ago by Lyle
    Response
    RAF Air Sea Rescue Launch 2507
    I used to be a member of cleverness model club. but sailing water to far , and had a mishap with a crabbing fishing line pulled my tug over , nothing you can do about it public pool , also
    salt water
    spoiling paint finish now use a canal....larry.
    8 years ago by larrywhetton


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