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Re: Billing Boats St Canute Tug Kit
Little tip re sanding!
I'm assuming you have used the
Then your finger tips will follow every depression and thus take away more filler (whatever it is) than you wanted to 😭
Use a sanding block (2x1" wood offcut or commercial rubber block from the auto branch) which is big enough to follow the curve of the hull (or whatever) you are sanding without going into the depressions.
Meself, I use a two part polyester fine finishing filler from the auto branch for all larger filling jobs, and on my smaller Plastic Magic projects, or minor finishing blemishes on larger boats, I use very fine Plastic Putty. For possible results see pics: Before and After😊
Hope this helps, Cheers, Doug 😎
6 months ago by RNinMunich
40'' Seaplane Tender, new build L
Bit more progress, bit slow as I had to have a change and 3/4 finish some 1/2 finished jobs on the house). I've fitted the toe rails, glued on the cabin roofs, made the floors, (both 2pc so as to be easy to remove to get at the bilges,) made the shaft support blocks, milled out the shaft slots and slotted the hull to match, ( still have to epoxy blocks in when happy with shaft angles ), made the motor mount plate and trimmed the inside edge excess off the deck.
Still have to make the rear cockpit floor and rear cabin /door panel but I'll wait till I've fitted the motors, as I have to see where the engine boxes end up, (they will probably end up being in the correct place with the motors partly inside the cabin but if I'm clever enough it won't be noticed.
The odd pic out is of some of the tools we use to make our models and don't even think about. I know most of us have our special home made 'tools' for different little jobs (ie
glued to flat or shaped blocks etc) but I thought for anyone just starting, it might give them an idea of what they could need to make it easier to build a model.
Obviously there are fillers, paints, brushes, planes, drills etc (couldn't fit my mill on the table, weighs about 400lbs) and a number of other items for doing the larger bits. Mostly it's some of the simple smaller tools which are the handiest (assortment of modelling knives, small hacksaw, cutting board, pencils and sanding blocks/paper. If you are fortunate enough to have a lathe you will obviously save a lot of money on scale fittings, shafts etc, but most people don't have one and have to come up with other methods or $$.
9 months ago by jbkiwi
40'' Seaplane Tender, new build K
Deck is now on and trimmed and chine spray rails and gunwale rubbing strip are on. Will be making the toe rails next and a few tweaks here and there, and inside edge of deck trimming to balsa facings (to be fixed) before undercoating. Cabin is a work in progress and still to be 'fitted'to deck ( whole
sheets strapped down tight to deck, and cabin placed on top and sanded fore and aft till a good fit) Cabin will fit over an internal coaming/upstand to keep water out.
Spray rails and rubbing strip are hard balsa toughened with cyno (toe rails will be the same) Glue for decks was West System 105 resin with 404 powder additive (magic stuff, most widely used epoxy for full sized boats in NZ.)
9 months ago by jbkiwi
She has a heartbeat
Hi everybody. Got a bit more done, added the fwd deck inserts and then installed the radio. I was going to lay down ply floors on either side of the stuffing box but all I had on hand was way too thin, less than 1/16. THEN, I found a piece of coroplast. I cut the floors out of that, scuffed the gluing side down with medium
, and glued them in place. The battery is velcroed in, as is the esc, while the steering servo uses Tamiya’s very thin, very sticky black servo mounting tape. Once set, this tape mounts very solidly with very little give. The rx is velcroed high up the hull side, and the servo and esc wires are trapped by Velcro just underneath. I could run her this way, but I have a bit more to do first.