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    Blog
    36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob
    After the successful build of the β€˜Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a β€˜Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately Β£2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of Β£48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more β€˜hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as β€˜strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and servo. During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & servo at the stern but largely I have not gone β€˜off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.
    9 months ago by robbob
    Response
    Re: Mermaid sport fisherman
    Thank you for interest,. I mostly like the building. I build
    scale model
    s which always go too fast. I have an brushed motor admirals barge that at full throttle lifts about the first third of the boat out of the water. I also bought this thing as a wreck and totally restored it. Looks nice, runs great, never had it in the water.
    2 months ago by Commodore-H
    Forum
    Rigging a model barge
    Question, is this intended to be a scale static model or are you building a sailing RC model? Joe
    5 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Graupner Neptun
    Scale 1:87 HO Graupner Neptun older kit but not of any specific ship, just a generic coastal freighter with or w/o cranes. Inside is a Graupner 350 motor geared 3:1; speed control; using one 7.2v 2400 NiMH Found a post of some else’s work. https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers/Mark_Wilkes/neptun.htm
    5 months ago by Ron
    Directory
    (Other) Searcher 2
    First model ever made.. My ignorance of RC shows as I used a donor hull using 27MHz (To be changed at a later date) 1:32 scale Delta 7.5mtr RHIB used by Her Majesty's Customs, eventually to be sailed in conjunction with my next model, a 1:32
    scale model
    of Damen Stan 4207 HMC Searcher. (8/10)
    5 months ago by RayA
    Forum
    Planking
    What type of boat/ship if its purely a sport boat you can cover the planking with tissue and dope then high build primer. Sand it down and paint with whatever takes your fancy. On the other hand if your wanting the planking to show ( scale type model) you need to seal the wood on the outside and inside with a decent varnish that should provide all sealing you need.
    6 months ago by Haverlock
    Forum
    Time to let go !
    For some time now, I've been addicted to purchasing beautiful things, particularly well made things, without much thought for my family, my job, or where the heck I'm going to put them ! On one such escapade I helped out with disposing of a small flotilla of very well made boats, with the intention of keeping one, and having made my decision on which one to keep, the rest must now sail away ! I must admit that I'm a sucker for 'plug N play' the easy way out possibly, but I really don't yet have the time to build a kit myself, which is my aim for the future . Ho Hum. Anyway, enough about me, what about the boats ? I hear. Well, the first is a very well constructed Model Slipway 1:43 scale Assurance Class WW2 armed tug. The model has sailed previously, but is presently only fitted with a motor, rudder servo and various wiring. It will of course need finishing in this respect. The build quality is excellent, and is as it should be, except for a little attention required to the rigging, as visible in the images. Also, the white I.D. decals are slightly flaking, on the port side ( now I am being picky, but that's about the extent of 'things to do'). I guess the initiated will know the spec. but if any further info is required, please do ask. I am open to very sensible offers for this, and the other boats that I will be releasing. I purchased a collection, to save them from a commercial brokerage, and to retain one for my own use, which is now the case. Please do ask any questions, or let me know if you need further images of any aspect of the craft. Of course, I will not post, and it will be advisable for a prospective buyer to view first. The boat is presently moored in South Manchester, with easy access from the motorway network. Best regards.
    6 months ago by Davecounty
    Directory
    (Naval Ship) HMS PENELOPE
    This model was made by me from Glyn Guest plans - I made this a good few year ago. Of all the
    scale model
    s I have built I like this one. When you take a
    scale model
    to the lake you have to be so careful not to damage anything - with this one you just put the model in the back of the car and throw it in the water - well not literally (you have to drive down to the lake first)πŸ€“πŸ€“ - many hours of enjoyment. (Motor: MFA) (5/10)
    6 months ago by JOHN
    Place
    SOUTH SHIELDS MODEL YACHT CLUB
    mainly yachts and very enthusiastic straight running group - small selection of scale sailors and the club was founded in 1886 - reputedly being one of oldest model sailing clubs in the UK.
    6 months ago by JOHN
    Blog
    PS Iona - Motors
    So to power the tug I needed some sort of motor gearbox arrangement, and I wanted 2 of them so I could drive the paddles independently, using 2 ESCs / batteries. The answer came in the form of 1:16
    scale model
    tank motors/gearboxes. I managed to find a couple on a well known selling platform... someone was upgrading their tank to metal gears and had 2 for sale. The gearing got the speed of the output shaft down to almost sensible, so I just needed to reduce it and connect the output to the paddle shafts... using Meccano gears & chains of course. This works well and allows scale speed running of the paddles up to much faster than scale speed!(if it's windy) Oh, just to mention the motor frames were mounted with grommets to blocks of wood to provide some suspension, and be removable if necessary.πŸ€“
    6 months ago by Harvey Kitten
    Blog
    Palamo's Fishing boat
    Well it's winter here in Hamilton Ontario & I decided to R/C a kit by Ocio Creativo 1/45 scale length 410 mm fishing boat .The model is a static kit so the trick will be installing all the R/C equipment . The challenge is the bulk heads are solid & will need to be modified for motor ,stuffing box , battery ,Etc .
    7 months ago by GARTH
    Forum
    Damen Stan 4207 Plans
    I retired 4.1/2 years ago at 70. I've finished all the jobs Management set me, and have decided to try my hand at model making. I set my mind on making a model of HMC Searcher with the rib. I purchased a Sports Game Racing Boat, took off the top, lowered the RC pickup into the hull and remodelled the top to a good facsimile of the Delta rib. Because of the size of the doner hull I have to build the Searcher to a 1:32 scale. I have no drawings only those off the internet which are very sketchy. I would ask if the person (maybe RH Baker) with the plan drawings of the hull could let me have a copy. This is the first model I have ever made so you will all no doubt be hearing from me on a regular basis to tap your knowledge. Thank you for bearing with me. RayA
    6 months ago by RayA
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    I have been making a rudder for a large
    scale model
    of S S Hunan and having progressed, after a few set backs, wondered how other modellers built their rudders especially those with multiple hinges. Toby
    9 months ago by Toby
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Sakibian, My friend Graham built his E-boat with a fibreglass hull but scratch-built everything else. He does magnificent detail work. For you to build this hull you first need to get the plans to the scale you want to build. 1/24 is good for these models. The cross sections are essential. You need to determine how many bulkhead frames you will require. You won't require as many as shown on their plan and photos - maybe less than half - as many as will enable you to support the stringers to give you a shape of the hull on to which you can fix the planking or skin. The frames you choose need to be at or very close to cross sections, so you can use them to mark and cut your frames. I use 5mm plywood. There is a photo of my Fairmile D frame earlier in this series of posts. One of my earliest posts on this website was a Youtube video with the E-boat and my Fairmile D in action with sound effects.
    7 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi John, You seem to have missed the point entirely, as you also did with your first post on this thread, in which instead of trying to help Andy and answer his question you attempt to dissuade him from his goal. Unfortunately I missed Andy's question back in March as I was embroiled with family matters. BUT, if he hasn't in the meantime been 'scared off' by the lack of constructive response I will do my best to help, having several times been down the road of multiple screws, as have many other better constructors than me on this site. Nearly all my ships have two, three or even four screws. Only the Sea Scout and ancient Billing Boats fish cutter (a restoration and conversion from static to RC project) have single screws - as per originals. About a year ago I acquired a model of a US Elco PTB fitted with two shafts. I am restoring it, rebuilding as Kennedy's PT109, and will fit the third shaft to complete it to scale as per original. Why? Because that's what
    scale model
    ling is about and because it's a challenge - pushing limits. Far be it from me to decry or put down anyone (as you now seem to be trying with me). We all have the enthusiasm (or we wouldn't be here) and do the best we can with the skills nature gave us and what the budget and state of health allows. I have often been astounded and appropriately applauded, and supported where I can, what fellow members have achieved with very limited resources and under very different circumstances from those we in the so called 'Western World' enjoy. That guy in Bangladesh blows my mind with what he manages in the back of beyond! Look for his post about his March '71 boats. WHEN I pitch in here I try to do so with constructive assistance, drawn from my own modelling experience and a lifetime spent working with navies and shipyards, to help a guy achieve his aims and dreams. NOT to immediately deflate him by saying 'Why do that? I did mine this way, it's not what you want but it works for me'. So far the Likes, PMs and mail feedback, request for assisitance I have tell me I'm doing something right. if I do boob (we're all human) I'm prepared to admit it and make amends / corrections. I have no idea what this 'Hooben' is that you yatter on about BUT - if "every little detail (is) reproduced with superb accuracy" why then ruin the overall effect by not continuing this attention to detail on the underwater ship and fitting shafts and screws appropriately? Whatever you do have fun with it, but don't dissuade others from pursuing their dreams. True there are "many roads to travel before one reaches there (!sic) destination" BUT as Confucius said "Every journey begins with the first step." if at the first step someone says 'Your destination is the wrong one' instead of offering a roadmap ..... ! Regards, Doug 😎 BTW: still waiting for the pics / videos of your 'Hooben' (?) and the Perkasa.
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    I am afraid that I disagree with the comments about Doug. They do not reflect Doug's comments or intentions. We are here to offer assistance to those that request it and others that may learn from the comments etc. Doug offers some of the best most practical advice from his experience. A Fairmile D had 4 engines and props. if you want to recreate it as a true
    scale model
    then that is the the aim. You are entitled to have one prop, one engine and one SLA battery in your boat. it may plane for approx 10 minutes before it slows and drops off the plane. I had such an arrangement a few decades ago in an old MTB, but have learned from it and moved on. I would not advise this arrangement with all the newer motors, battery types and ESCs available. My Fairmile D has 2 x Speed 700 motors and NiMH batteries. it runs on plane for an hour or more. My newer Vosper MTB and La Combattante III boats have 2 x brushless motors each and the same NiMH battery packs - my choice. Other people use LiPo batteries. We respect all modellers and their quest to build 'their' own models. Nothing wrong with having the best advice available, so modellers can make up their own minds.
    7 months ago by reilly4
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Hi biker, Depends on whether you want to build true
    scale model
    and build it 'right', or just a near scale 'Runabout'. Rowen has learned (with a little help form his friends πŸ˜‰) to build it right which is extremely satisfying and the correct detail underwater truly compliments his superb detailing above the waterline. To me the two are inseparable. Seems to me that that is what Andy wants as well. I applaud him. About time we gave him some constructive answers - but first we need to know something about his boat:- Length, beam, probable max weight? If all you want is a near scale quickbuild fast runabout John there are plenty of ARTR/RTR options on the market. But then; that's just my opinion - and whadda I know!😁 Look forward to at least some pics / vids of your boat in action Biker. Cheers, Doug 😎
    7 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build
    Unless you are determined to build to scale, the single motor/screw combination is probably the best. Have encountered several challenges with my triple motor/screw Brave Borderer (the predecessor to the Perkasa) layout. Now have the satisfaction though of setting off to build a
    scale model
    and have achieved it.
    7 months ago by RHBaker
    Blog
    Styrene source
    Ed, I get my styrene at a local train model shop, all of the other hobby shops closed down. it is from Evergreen
    scale model
    s and they do sell on-line as well. Evergreenscalemodels.com I buy both the shapes and sheet styrene and I cut all my materials with single edge razor blades as a, sharp blade is always good. Buy bulk packages and go thru a couple a day. See photos
    7 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    HMS Campbeltown 1941, 1/96 scale
    Thankyou Nerys for your very kind words πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘ 'One does what one can!' πŸ˜‰ HMS Manxman is one of my favourite ships and the subject of my next major project. I have the 1/96 scale Deans marine kit. Her history has always fascinated me. Built my first 1/600 Airfix model of her many many moons ago! Should you happen to have any photos of her in the Medway I would be most grateful if you could post them or mail them to meπŸ‘ Re 'the wealth of information'; comes from having spent over thirty years working in naval communication systems for navies and shipyards around the world. Many of the projects were refits of ships which were built towards the end of WW2. Such as the ex RN Colossus class carrier I worked on in Rio de Janeiro. Ex Vengeance then NAeL Minas Gerais. Pics show her as built as Vengeance and as rebuilt / reconfigured as Minas Gerais as I knew her in the nineties. Through that work I developed a knack for research; if I didn't know something about a ship or a COMMS process that a customer wanted I damn soon found out. Was essential to stay ahead of the competition πŸ˜‰ It also gave me an undying interest and insatiable curiosity about the history of the ships and the men who sailed and fought in them. My first working model was a scratch build of the H class destroyer HMS Hotspur which I built at 1/72 from measurements taken from a 1/600 Airfix kit, when I was 15! 52 years ago now πŸ€” See penultimate pic, shows her alongside my 1/72 Type IIA U-Boat. A contemporary of Hotspur, both commissioned in 1936. Last pics are of her maiden voyage in Radnor Park Folkestone in 1966. Sorry, only had a Brownie 127 camera back then 😁 Her history, from Narvik to Dominican Republic was also very chequered and eventful. Like Manxman, despite being severely damaged several times she survived until the early seventies. Apart from the Manxman kit I have recently found a 1/350 kit of the Colossus class carriers. So I promptly bought two of 'em. One I will build as the original HMS Vengeance, the other I will try to reconfigure as NAeL Minas Gerais with an angled flight deck etc. Wish me luck πŸ˜‰ Good luck with all your projects Nerys and All the very best for 2019. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW; footnote to SS Peking; German TV recently showed the old Miss Marple film 'Murder Ahoy' in which the Peking was used for the external scenes as the Training Ship Battledore. An amazing coincidence, following so soon after your enquiry!
    8 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Ship rudders
    Hi Toby As I mentioned, I have not practiced this method for 5+ years so there will be a few that are slightly over/undersized. Most on the demo strip I sent you dried to 2.5mm and worked fine on the 1/72
    scale model
    . They do shrink slightly on drying. Spacing and needle size will allow for "bleed" if you intend to go to about 3mm. I can't recall the needle size I used at the time but think it would have been in the order of 22g. Fortunately (for model making πŸ˜‰!) we can get needles off the shelf at Diskem here (equivalent to your Boots). Cheers
    8 months ago by Joburg-sailor
    Forum
    My other hobbies
    Hello, I've seen others post their other interests, so I guess it's okay for me to do so here. Never know if others have question or need help with these of hobbies. 1. Narrow Gauge Scale locomotives and rolling stock: Narrow gauge railroads were used in the US west for both lumber and mining companies. The narrow trains allowed them tighter radius to get through mountainous areas. See images of some of my examples, I model HOn3 and On30 scales. 2. Vacumm Tube Ampliffiers: In WWII, my dad was in the Navy and worked in the sonar labs and also taught electronics to the enlisted. When I was about 13, he taught me Tube electronics and I scratch built my first amp, a stereo and guitar smp combo. This was back in about '64 when solid state was just starting to take over. Now I experiment, design and build guitar amps as musicians have discovered how much better they sound. I hard wire everything. More to come as I have more hobbies in addition to building boats. Regards, Joe
    8 months ago by Joe727
    Blog
    Day Two Springer
    Springer build log for website Hello all, Even though I am in the middle of several projects, including refitting two of my boats, I can't resist starting a new one. I am sure that I am not the only one with this affliction, I get bored quickly and jump from project to project. To keep them moving, I mostly work simultaneously. So here goes, my first ever Build Blog, bear with me.... Picked the Springer Tug as it is very simple and it will just be used ss a backup recovery vessel. I intend to build it a zero cost from my parts box and scrap wood pile. I put together my extra props, driveshaft, gearbox, motor, esc and RX. May have to buy a SLA Battery to get descent run time. Started last evening by making a template based on the plan in photo, credit goes to hull designer, see photo. Then I determined my motor location and Drive Line Angle so I could design the stuffing tube. Constructed that the same night using a 3/16" SS steel drive shaft. Bronze bushings from local hardware store and brass tubing from my supplies. See photos... Had the 500dc motor, Master Airscrew Gearbox, drive shaft, coupler and 2" brass prop. More to come..... Joe Day 2 Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    8 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    Robbe Smaragd
    I have a Robbe Smaragd Yacht. 1/10 scale. This is quite old now and could do with a β€˜make over’. I would like to see some plans or instructions from the build before I start and would therefore be grateful if anyone with knowledge of this model or better still, copies of any paperwork that came with the kit contacted me. A few pics attached of this very β€˜forgiving’ yacht............ All the best. NPJ
    2 years ago by NPJ
    Response
    Rescue Vessel - Springer Tug
    Hello, Next I traced the hull sides on to 12mm/1/2" Baltic birch plywood from Woodcraft store. I nailed two pieces together prior to cutting so as to match. I don't have a scroll saw so I built a table mount for a jigsaw that attaches to my homemade drill press table. Cut them together, but the jigsaw does not cut well in terms of verticality. So I clamped them in a vise and hand sanded till they matched and were at 90 degrees. I showed my simple rig for the sabre saw / jigsaw table. if you need detail, just ask. I also showed my custom made 4 1/2 table that I made because I could not find a scaled down table saw for model making. (Could not afford, I am retired and have a low budget. Glued up the sides and ends tonight with Titebond 3, temporary nails to help hold it into place. Note: As to any joints whether it be electronic, woodworking, etc., a good practice is to use this both adhesive and mechanical fastener. I swear by these as one or the other will eventually fail This is as simple as using a screw, nail or rod, and the appropriate adhesive. Model building, as most will say is cheaper than therapy. Joe
    8 months ago by Joe727
    Forum
    define a model boat
    Many of my models are models of models - the Sea Princess, for instance, is a half-sized Sea Queen. in some cases EeZeBilt boats are actually made larger than their originals - so a double-sized Curlew or Triton is a 2:1
    scale model
    of a model rather than a 1:2. Very recursive...
    8 months ago by DodgyGeezer
    Forum
    My apparent absence...
    Hi all, in case anyone bothered to wonder where I wuz, you may know I was making a master for a 1/6th
    scale model
    kit of a Vincent Black Shadow 'bike. I sent the engine casings to Griffin Moulds in the Midlands and they utterly destroyed the masters, sending me back a back of fragments! No phone call, no e-mail, no note in the late-delivered (DPD) parcel. Now they have the cheek to invoice me! So I have been busy catching up with other stuff kept waiting for a while, sucvh as a 1/43rd scale brass master of a Triumph Model H 1915 'bike and a 1/32nd scale Vanwall Transporter. So I haven't even looked a t a model boat since the weather turned. And likely shan't much before May. Everyone have a nice Christmas. Cheers, Martin
    8 months ago by Westquay
    Place
    Task Force 72 Fleet Base Victoria
    Victorian Fleet Base - 1/72
    scale model
    ships. Part of Task Force 72
    8 months ago by reilly4
    Place
    Task Force 72 Fleet Base Victoria
    Victorian Fleet Base - 1/72
    scale model
    ships. Part of Task Force 72
    8 months ago by reilly4
    Media
    Broads Light Class Cabin Cruisers
    Thought I would share some photos of my lovely 1:16
    scale model
    cabin cruisers, of the famous 1920/30s Herbert Wood's Light Class Blakes Holiday Cabin Cruisers. And their scale Broads dinghy, Titmouse. All their external detail is exact to the real craft of their heyday. I simply love constructing these old craft from a real bygone era. Presently underway are more cruisers I am working on, Cirrus and Western Light.
    9 months ago by NorfolkBroads
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    Rowen, here are a couple of things that may be of use to you (and others). The battery alarm will save you worrying about running out of steam as they can be set to beep at varying voltages to warn you of low battery, just put one on each batt balance lead and when one goes off (when an individual cell drops below the set voltage) it means start heading back. These can be picked up on Ebay for a few dollars. I use them on my planes as well and are audable from around 100m (these twin horns are the best) Secondly, re your ESC switches, these electronic switches (AliExpress) are great for this sort of thing (as long as you have enough aux switches on TX ) You can link them with a Y cable to work together or use them independantly for anything, (lights, pumps etc, - they can be operated by TX rotary switches as well) The ESC and 2000kv motor (HK) are the ones I am using in my ASR model and will work smoothly down to a crawl, the purple 1980 kv seems to have superseded these but I think they will be as good. The props are from Ali Express and are resin and available in L and R hand, are only a few bucks and perform perfectly while looking quite scale(ish). I painted them with an acrylic bronze which seems to have stayed on pretty well. Model weighs 2.8kg and will run at more than 10mph flat out with this set-up (using the 26mm L+R) props) which is silly speed and that's with 2x 2s 2200mah lipos (which will last till you get sick of it and still have 60% left) I was just looking at your Daman set-up and noticed the wiring method from the batts to the ESCs. You might want to make your batt to ESC connections direct to your ESCs (as per original ESC lead length)as your capacitors may get a thrashing (spikes) due to the extra length/ resistance you have there. There is a general rule that you don't lengthen the batt to ESC wiring without adding a 220mf capacitor of same voltage as the ESC for every 4"of extra wire length (ESC to motor - not so much). Might want to check this out in case you fry your ESCs You probably have thought of this but thought I'd mention it, 'just in case' Might help with your modulation as well. Have chucked in a vid of the HSL manouvering (first trials so wasn't perfect) and also the MTB (brushed) which I have just converted to a twin system (was twin but single Electronize unit) plus a sound unit. You may know that you can use as many RECs (bound to the same TX) for various purposes on the same boat (have run 2 boats together from the same TX) Might get you round the mixed brushless/ brushed problem with a bit of thought. Have you thought of changing your old HK silver 6DF TX to twin throttles, it's a piece of cake(as is the TGY 6x), just remove the aileron/rudder centering spring and make a friction plate as per throttle stick, and use the elevator channel as your other throttle. Set your ESCs and you can then use a twin system giving you perfect control. Saves a lot of hassle.
    9 months ago by jbkiwi
    Forum
    HMS M.33
    Hi John, When I retired I one of my savings funds matured and I used it to renew the 'chariot' (Toyota Verso Exec) and used some of the 'leftovers' to treat myself to the Manxman and also a kit for an Akula 2 Russian sub; complete with all necessary static diving and safety equipment. 😊 Next expenditure on that scale for model ships will be in the next life. if I'm reborn as a cat or a warthog I'll have a problem 😲 BTW you can also get a hull only from Deans. Β£91.40. http://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/26_33/products_id/541 And I have a complete set of plans in pdf format if you're interested. Think you're right about the anecdote, the version seems to depend on where the sailor recounting it was serving or had served πŸ˜‰ Anyway; the Abdiel class ships were well capable of doing that. The USN Carrier Groups run out of 'puff' at about 32-34 knots (Nimitz class) whereas Manxman still had 6 to 8 knots in hand 😁 All the best, Doug 😎 BTW; What were you up to 'somewhere in the China Sea'? Ten years or so ago I spent about an hour n a half circling above the Yellow / East China Sea after take off from Seoul, S. Korea. I had just spent an interesting week at the Daewoo shipyard. Plane had some problem with the undercarriage, wouldn't retract according to the cockpit display!😲 so we circled dumping fuel before landing back at Seoul. Nobody was sure if it would fold up on landing or not, it didn't, big PHEW! 😊
    9 months ago by RNinMunich
    Blog
    Our Ben Fishing Boat
    I have purchased a fishing boat as part of a boat bundle on ebay, it looks like a Cygnus DS25 hull. I intend to remove the deck that has been fitted very high, change the wheelhouse and make it into a small netting boat on a 16th scale. The name is for my Nephew who has enjoyed watching me make my other models and loves coming to the lake with me. This way he can have a boat of his own!
    9 months ago by GrahamP74
    Forum
    just need cable (wire)...
    Gents, I wanted the soft floppy silicon covered wires, so Halfords wouldn't do. Doug, the odd thing is that when I worked in Germany as a clay modeller, I was often given hard modelling jobs (not clay) which usually meant making complex little mechanisms. So much so that I became known as Mechanical Martin or just "Mekanist". Yet back home fitting all the worky bits to a model boat or even a slot car/model railway loco is the bit I hate! Don't know why, except maybe in the boats/slotcars/locos there is a certain way of doing it which I find a drudge and in the clay studios there was always an element of invention required. indeed I am the nominated inventor on a VW patent! But, I have run out of space for storage boxes and can only rarely get to a decent pond to run anything, so I am going over to static models only now. 1/24th
    scale model
    s of mahogany hot rods (woodies), some in scenic set-pieces, maybe. But I'll finish the models I have on the go first. Martin
    10 months ago by Westquay
    Forum
    Numbers and lettering for solent
    Check out BECC on line, they have most of the scale numbers/letters for your model. Prices aren’t bad either.
    10 months ago by KenThompson
    Media
    ''Exuberent'' DH142
    South Devon Crabber :- Cygnus GM 32' 1/12 Scale. Donor hull 32" fitted out/scratch built. Replica of actual vessel that floundered off Weymouth in 1983. Model build started in 1981 and completed in 2018 !!!
    10 months ago by Ballast
    Response
    Rudders and Propellers
    BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders πŸ€” You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.πŸ˜‰ On real ships, including the Schnellboote, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. πŸ€” G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎
    10 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    USGC Island class fg hull.
    I wish to build a USCG Island class cutter. I have a full set of plans but I am not too brilliant at making hulls from scratch. I have found a possible source, MTBHulls of Gibralta, of getting a fibre glass hull at 1/48 scale but they need an order of 4 to produce one. They produce many different hulls but not this one, hence the requirement for 4 to make it viable to make a new hull. So I am looking for 3 other model makers who may be interested in buying one of these hulls at approx. Β£55 each plus any cost for me to post them on or deliver. The Island class cutter is 110 feet long, which would make a model just over 2 foot long, and based on a Vosper Thornycroft design but built in the States. I believe there were about 80 built of which 35 remain in service. There are many pictures of them on the internet which is where I got the plans from but I am happy to copy the plans if anyone is interested.
    10 months ago by epmbcmember
    Forum
    Paints
    Hmm! Let's 'Cut to the chase'! First; I've never been on a ship, naval or civil, and I've been on a few during my 30 odd year career designing COMMS systems for ships, mostly naval, that used gloss paints OR matt paints. Matt paint, whether for scale or full size, rapidly shows the wear marks where folks tread or grab or where we habitually grab it on models. This rapidly creates a shiny effect, like the seat of your favourite, most comfortable and ancient trousers (which the Missus probably wanted to throw out years ago but you are fighting a REARguard action) 😁 During WW2 the emphasis was on reducing the reflectivity of paints on warships. Gloss on a ship / boat MAY not look any different from satin or matt at a distance BUT; it will reflect sunlight and flash which attracts attention and betrays the presence of the vessel. Furthermore gloss shows the wear and tear marks much sooner than satin. Whether matt paints were available or not in those days I don't know, but even if they were I don't think they would have been used after the initial durability tests on board. Having seen the paint part numbers, all BS381C xxx, specified on the Thornycroft 'blueprints' that Martin sent me, I would say that the paint colours you need Morkullen are RN Light Weatherworks grey BS381C 676 = Colour Coats M01 RN Dark Admiralty grey BS381C 632 = Colour Coats M16 RN Light Admiralty grey BS381C 697= Colour Coats M23 See page 3 of the colour chart, see attached colour charts from Sovereign Hobbies for their Colour Coats paints, which have been derived from original Admiralty paint chips.. Colour Coats are enamel. If you prefer acrylic try Life Colour set CS33 Royal Navy WW2 Set 1. See page 6 of attached Life Colour catalogue. Happy painting, don't forget to post pics / vids of the resultsπŸ‘ Cheers, Doug 😎 PS have a look at the recent HMS Campbeltown 1/96 thread for further detail of the recent discussion on WW2 RN paints. BTW; if I feel after painting that the finish is still too glossy I give it a blast of Lord Nelson satin, or in extreme cases, matt clear varnish. Otherwise I agree with Reilly's commentsπŸ‘
    11 months ago by RNinMunich
    Forum
    Empress of Canada 1961
    I am interested in getting in touch with anyone who has built a sailing model of "Empress of Britain" or "Empress of England" to Vic Smeed's plan. I'd like to know if they built to scale draft, and if the model was stable and sat at waterline depth. Roy
    11 months ago by Trillium
    Forum
    1/24 crew figures
    Thanks for the offer! but have now stopped the building after fitting windows,yes it was thatched but now tiled,over 500 years old with chimneys fitted later and floors inserted.My wife and I joined a buildings archeology group and measured and drew the house in 1/25 scale and it seemed a good idea to build a model,(we found the priest hole by doing this)pics of a wattle and daub wall in the roof real and model.Sorry for the thread drift now back to boats!
    11 months ago by philpjuk
    Forum
    Wave Princess
    Hi snowballs, dont know if this helps I have the original plan from a norstar wave princess but its not to scale it seems to be 2 thirds of the size to the finished model you are welcome to a copy if you want it. Jim dogge.
    11 months ago by jimdogge
    Forum
    1/24 crew figures
    I built a
    scale model
    of my house in 25/1 and found dolls house bits at 24/1 very useful.
    11 months ago by philpjuk
    Blog
    Scimitar-class patrol vessel
    Two vessel in it class (1) HMS Scimitar (2) HMS Sabre Launched: December 1992 Displacement: 24,000Β kg Builder: Portsmouth Armament: 2 Γ— General purpose machine guns (stern-mounted) Complement: 7 (1 officer, 6 ratings) Gibraltar Squadron's two Scimitar-class boats are the smallest commissioned vessels in the Royal Navy. This build was to produce a fun semi scale racing boat, I have always liked the Archer class boats cabin design. So after finding a suitable hull, an old 'Models by Design' GRP moulding I was away with the rest of the build. Striped out all old fittings and remnants removed excess glue. Added strakes to the hull to add lift for planning and control. Produced a semi scale deck and cabin from light ply. Thanks for your interest Roy
    1 year ago by CB90
    Forum
    Darby One Design hydro...
    Dowty Turbocraft was smiled upon by Donald Campbell as a service vessel after he'd used Albatrosses. it's thought it was a bit of wash from the Dowty that caused his final crash. i I used to have a Mk 1 Albatross, Hull 137, but nI couldn't use it anywhere fast due to river speed limits, so I flogged it. it was all riveted aluminium, made by ex Spitfire makers. The countersunk rivets, after over 50 years were so well applied you just couldn't see them. Amazing craftsmanship, but when they were first on sale, they were the price of a small house! I paid rather less, rebuilt the engine, repainted it and flogged it for a lot more, then made a 1/6th
    scale model
    of it and sold that to a man who owns most of the boathouses round Windermere. A Ford 1172 sidevalve engined boat would tow 2 water skiers amazingly. There's a website called Old Speed Boats that deals with Dowty Turbocraft well. Cheers, Martin
    11 months ago by Westquay
    Blog
    Calculating scale speed
    HOW TO CALCULATE SCALE SPEED Such is the diversity in model boating with anything from a tug to fast service launches and hydroplanes there is always the issue of what is scale speed as we want our models to look right when on the water. This can be achieved by finding the square root of the scale multiplied by the speed of the full size craft. All you need is a pocket calculator and as an example I will use an M.T.B that is flat out at 40 knots. The boat is a 1/35
    scale model
    . We start by dividing 1 by 35 which is .0285714 then press square root that shows up as .1690307 which when multiplied by 40 (speed of full size craft in knots) gives us 6.76 knots for the model. When calculating it in miles per hour the process is still the same. Boaty😁
    11 months ago by boaty
    Blog
    BRAVE BORDERER - BRUSHLESS SUMMARY
    Although have modeling experience, all my earlier vessels used brushed motors. This was my first brushless. The model is now running well, but thought, for the benefit of others considering this transition to summarize my experiences. Must stress the performance of a brushless motor is incredible when compared to a similar sized brushed; for a vessel such as this they are almost obligatory. They are worth the trouble! Had been advised that the best powertrain installation for a 37” Brave Borderer is either a single or twin screws, not three. This was good advice! Much heartache could have been avoided with a single screw installation. Unfortunately, that is not the correct layout for a scale builder. Tried three major powertrain iterations, with several variations within each group. All motors are 28mm O/D : 1) The original installation used 3 x 4600kV inrunner motors with 30 A ESCs. Had bought these items used. The motors were too fast and had little torque. The ESCs also did not have adequate capacity. The result was erratic performance, a high fuse failure rate and the eventual failure of an ESC and motor Picture #1. 2) First upgrade was to 2 x 2400kV inrunner motors, using 50A capacity ESCs. The centre shaft was fitted with a brushed motor. This combination did work, although suffered greatly from motor β€œsqueal” and β€œstutter”. Eventually a motor burnt out and failed. Picture #2 3) Upgrade two: retained the 50 A ESCs, with 2 x 2600 kV outrunner motors, again with the brushed inner shaft motor. Reprogrammed the ESCs to soft start parameters. Much better, performance and reliability can now be considered acceptable. The squeal and stutter are largely corrected it has justified the challenges of getting here. Picture #3 Have tried both 2 and 3S Li-Po batteries, suggest use the minimum voltage needed to achieve the desired performance. Higher voltages translate into faster response and performance, but with less control modulation. The model can be easily overpowered. In summary, from my experience. For a marine application; chose low (under 2000kV) kV rating motors with an outrunner layout wherever possible (produce more torque than inrunners). Use ESCs with a ratings comfortably in excess of the motor ratings, fit fuses to supplement any ESC protections. Ensure the ESCs are programmed to β€œsoft start” characteristics. Also, the obvious check of making sure shaft alignment is correct is even more important with the higher speed capability of brushless motors. in spite of the trails, cost and tribulations of getting here. Have enjoyed the challenge and the end result does justify the means. Also, do not finally fit the deck until you are satisfied with the performance. Making the changes described with limited access would have been very difficult and frustrating.
    11 months ago by RHBaker
    Response
    Rudders and propeller
    Building a scale plastic model like the Schnellboot does involve a lot of creativity and imagination mainly around how to convert it to a working model. initial stage is how do you get the motors, radio e.s.c and batteries to fit in and to add to this which component of the superstructure is going to be removable for access to inside the hull. Further matters include access to the motor and other working parts should there ever be a failure and need to replace the faulty part. Desired outcome is that you manage it without causing any damage. Greatest reward is at the lakeside when onlookers admire your work of art and are even more surprised how well it sails. Boaty😎😁
    11 months ago by boaty
    Response
    BRAVE BORDERER
    Good to hear you are making progress with the noise. My ESCs are not programmable as far as I know (There may be a card somewhere). They were cheap Chinese waterproof car/Buggy ESCs with Fwd and Rev which I wanted for independent drives but for the price and how well they work, you can't beat them (about NZ $20 each) They have a very soft start (you can count the revs) programmed in as std, and the only problem I have found is that they sometimes won't go straight into reverse without quickly nudging forward and back, (just need to drive in a scale manner and it's fine.) I'll put a pic of the unit and motor in (also a brushed one I am using in the MTB (x2) which work perfectly only NZ $9.00) They have braking, FWD, FWD+REV and batt type adjustable by jumpers. Throttle set-up is simple with full FWD and partial Rev set by the sticks. Both types are 30A and never even get warm. I purchased some fans for them but have never used them. The brushless units have a fan plug on them. The squealing I have may just require a switching frequency change on the ESC (8kHz/16kHz -more RF noise on 16kHz but more efficient) but I don't think I have that option (do you have that option to try on your set-up ? might be worth a crack). The sound units muffle it a bit anyhow. Boat runs at 10mph (GPS) flat out (looks way off scale) but only needs about 1/4 - 3/4 throttle for normal cruising. Will try to put up an external vid soon. Transmitter is easily modded to twin throttles,- excellent cheap set for boats ( later model has internal aerial)
    11 months ago by jbkiwi
    Response
    HMS BRAVE BORDERER
    It is correct that brushless motors don't modulate as smoothly as brushed. I have had the same problem but now I only use brushless on my fast electrics. 3s lipos do put out a lot of power and as Brave Borderer is a
    scale model
    it could be that the speed exceeds the limitations of the hull thus when running on 2s it is more stable. BoatyπŸ˜‹
    11 months ago by boaty


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