Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Hello Reilly, Sorry for my late reply. The link you gave me, https://model-boats.com/sys_files/ajax/link_out?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pt-boat.com%2F I think they sells kits. I'm afraid I would like to 0- 100% myself 😉. But still, thanks a lot. I can watch and learn to build one. I just fear e bcz the hull looks terrifying. The torpedo hols, aft deck etc. If it was flat would be much easier 🙄😭

5 years ago by Sakibian

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

Hi Sakibian, Reilly built the Fairmile MTB, NOT the , as far as I know 😉 Although I do agree that it is a stunning model, as is Reilly's MTB. Great detail and realism. Hat off Reilly 👍👍👍 G'night 'Up Over' and G'mornin 'Down Under'. 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Fairmile D 1/24 Scale Build

The e looks stunning! Where did you get the criss section design? Would love to build one of them

5 years ago by Sakibian

Response

fuses

When I had a it was 1/31 scale and I used Speed 400's.My esc's were 50 amp.I had no problem.Once you put the boat in the water there is more resistance on the props.With that there is more current draw.Maybe look into getting a higher rated esc.

5 years ago by Donnieboy

Blog

fuses

Radio control setup 3 Mtroniks M400 marine Motors (running at 12V, at maximum efficiency it will run at around 20,000 Rpm and pull around 4 amps. Start-up current depending on prop size (30mm on 4mm prop shaft) would be around 10amps (6-12 volts) 3 Mtroniks Viper marine 15 ESCs connected using Mtroniks W-tail mixer with 10-amp fuses used between ESC and battery’s Batteries are 1 Carson 2100 MAH High performance NiMH battery pack 2 Vanquish 22oo MAH NiMH battery pack All Batteries are 7.2 V I have tested the set -up all the ESC are synchronised, and all seems well on the bench but when I try it in test tank all the fuses blow, and I check all connections and there are not short circuits on the connections or switches can anyone help

5 years ago by teejay

Blog

1-35 Scale Schenllboot By TeeJay

Hi all for the second blog report on the I am going to go over the rudder a propeller shaft assembly in more detail. The first stage was to make the rudders which were made of brass ,and having taken note of what has been said about the increase in size needed for the kit by other members I have increased the size of the rudders by 50% so that they have more effect and hopefully the boat will be more agile .I fitted 3mm treaded rod on to the rudder and in a 4mm flanged tube to reinforce the brass rod. The second stage was to make and fit 5mm flanged tube in the location for the rudders in the boat, these were made to be above the water line and will be sealed in place to reduce the possibility of leaks. These were fitted to a rudder platform inside the boat which was fitted to the kit moulding for the rubbing strip that runs the length on the boat and secured by making resin blocks which were fitted with computer extension nuts. which were then superglue in place to secure the rudder platform. The rudders were then fitted in place and held in position with the tiller collars which were made from 8mm rod and fitted the tiller arms and locked in place with 3mm computer screws and ni-lock nuts, a connecting plate was then fitted to connect the three tillers together, I also fitted rubberised washers to seal the rudder tubes. The third stage was to make the propeller supports. The centre support was a direct copy of the kit part made of brass and fitted to the kit with a plate and screws (this plate and the rudder plate were made from galvanised steel) and will sealed with resin after the I test the boat for leaks. The port and starboard supports were made by taking the kit parts and cutting them in have along the joint line or mould seam this gave me a template ,which I used to make cross-section segments but I did alter the template by increasing the boss diameter to 10mm and extending the support legs so that the finished support could be fitted through the hull (the picture of these show the mk1 version where I forgot to allow for the 4mm prop shaft which has a 6mm tube) any way the boss of these segments were drilled out with a 7mm drill and a length of 7mm brass tube fitted through the boss to assemble the segments, all of which were coated in soldering flux at this stage of the assembly which were riveted at both ends to hold it all together during soldering, after soldering the supports were then filed to the size and shape to resemble the kit parts as close as possible and fitted to the hull using a superglue and talcum powder mix and then I cast resin around the extensions to secure the prop supports in place. The fourth stage is the propeller shaft housing for the centre propeller housing I place a brass rod in a plastic straw and place in position in hull and using resin I sealed the hull with the rod in place this gave me a pilot hole for the centre prop shaft after I removed the brass rod. For the port and starboard shafts I used the kit parts which had hole place when assembled, this when I reinforced the housings ,the centre housing I glue 2mm of plasticard on each side and for the port and starboard I made a brass tube shroud which covered the housings which left gaps between the kit part and the brass which was filled by casting resin in the gap this increased the diameter to 10 mm so that there were little chance of breaking throw with the drill and finished these off by fill-in the outside with body filler and sanded to shape and finish . I then drilled through the pilot hole in the housings using very long extended drills and a wheel brace ( if I had use a power drill the heat would have melted the plastic of the kit and may have caused problems) I drill the shaft housings out 6mm them filed them out with 6mm file so that I could insert a length of 6mm brass tube. After all this was done I fitted a flanged bush made from 7mm tube and 2mm brass plate turned to 11mm to the ends or the propeller shaft housings. And now it is time I must ask for some help could anyone advise me on the length of propeller shafts, I know I can use a 300mm shaft for the centre shaft, but port and starboard will have to be longer. and I also need advice on selecting the motors, I want to use 4mm prop shaft with 35mm propellers. Any opinions welcome.

6 years ago by teejay

Forum

RC....mixers? And other unknowns..

Ok... Currently trying to build a Itaieri , ...but am questioning if what little I think I know to be correct/ workable... I have amassed the following : 3- Hobbyking ST3007 1100KV brushless motors each direct drive to 32mm plastic props.... (2 right hand drive and 1 left hand drive props... swapped over leads on on motor to get it to run as yet untested the left hand prop) 3- Turnigy nano tech 3s 3000mh 25-50C Lipo ( Have got a balance charger and board , flame proof charge bag , battery voltage check/ alarm units, and will check and charge them await the only local help I have in RC / lips battery a helicopter flyer who has no experience with RC boats ) I just read the post on WTail mixer and wonder if I need that or if my current unkowning idea to just connect all 3 ESC ‘s together to one channel on the radio , again was give Eflite Blade SR HP6DSM 2.4GHz to try out ,Will this unit work or do I need something else , currently will/ can use all 6 channels but would / could use more if I had them ... last time I had anything to do with RC was a a kid/ teen and back then you had ground radios and flight radios and the two should not be mixed .. Ok please advise , how far off am I or am I still within range of keeping it simple ? Thanks All Bill

6 years ago by BW3

Response

Rudders and Propellers

BTW; I copied your above massive text block into a document file and split it up into paragraphs so I could see where you're at! My conclusion: so far so good BUT! You made the one classic mistake of many model boat / ship builders 🤔 You continued the prop shaft tube right back to the propeller and hence you had to make oversize struts to support them. This is fundamental wrong and creates unnecessary work.😉 On real ships, including the e, the so called 'stuffing tube' is JUST THAT, it 'stuffs' the shaft through the hull and includes stuffing glands to prevent the ingress of sea water. Outside the hull ONLY the rotating shaft itself continues on through the bearing in the support strut and to the prop. See attached pics of my HMS Belfast as an example. There was actually no reason for you to make oversize strut bearings, simply bushes to match your prop SHAFT not the tube would have been correct. Inside the real ship there is also NO TUBE, only bearings at suitable intervals. They look like gigantic versions of the big ends in your car. Imagine on really big ships, carriers, container ships, bulk tankers etc, with shaft diameters of 1metre or so how big the 'tube' would be, how much weight that would add and how difficult it would be to service and maintain! I've often noticed in posts here that folk confuse shaft and tube, often referring to the whole assembly as 'the shaft'. For convenience we modellers use prop tubes, who wants to fiddle about making a row of internal shaft bearings no one will ever see and will most likely never be really concentric? The downside is that continuing this 'convenience' outside the hull is wrong, adds weight and detracts from the scale appearance of the model. 😭 OK, it's 3am here now so - orf me 'obby 'orse and up (in my case down!) the wooden stairs to Bedfordshire, G'night all, cheers, Doug😎 Re shaft length: What fits fits, what don't don't! Such a question is like asking 'How long is a piece of string?'! If all three motors abreast won't fit you have to decide if the central motor should / will fit fore or aft of the outer motors. Then measure / adjust the shaft length accordingly. Before you start fitting the centre motor check what length shafts are commercially available and adjust your motor fit to suit. Otherwise make your own shafts and tubes to fit as required, as I've started doing cos I got fed up with 'standard sizes' wot don' wanna fit my ship. 🤔 G'night All, cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

S 100 RC build

I really like your schenllboot and I hope you get the same satisfaction as I am getting, I have building the same kit for the last year and a bit , and the support on this site is tremendous, as well as the tips and methods in the blogs and posts . I think I would have be lost without the members help, so keep at PS the boat looks really good

6 years ago by teejay

Response

Rudders and propeller

Building a scale plastic model like the does involve a lot of creativity and imagination mainly around how to convert it to a working model. initial stage is how do you get the motors, radio e.s.c and batteries to fit in and to add to this which component of the superstructure is going to be removable for access to inside the hull. Further matters include access to the motor and other working parts should there ever be a failure and need to replace the faulty part. Desired outcome is that you manage it without causing any damage. Greatest reward is at the lakeside when onlookers admire your work of art and are even more surprised how well it sails. Boaty😎😁

6 years ago by boaty

Response

lastest progress

My pleasure TJ, get well soon👍 But as an ex Pat living in Germany for 30 odd years and having worked on several types of Fast Patrol Boats / Fast Attack Craft your spelling of is still making my hair stand on end! 🤔 BTW: DON'T cut the switch wires on the ESCs or you won't be able to turn them on! Cut the red wires in the 3 wire cables from the ESCs to the RX. Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW 2: boat looks good, nice work👍 I have a couple of 1/72 kits for E-Boat / S-Boot, hope mine turns out as well as yours! 😉

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

PT 109 upgrade?

My 1/24th 5' was running on 3x850 mfa motors changed to 1 x Turnigy 3648 1450kv outrunner operating on a 3s lipo. . more than enough speed even with the outer props just freewheeling

6 years ago by camyaj

Response

S 100 RC build

I am doing a lot of reading of posts online many back when this kit was new to the market.... as to my motor choice I winged it as I am not sure of what the motor sizes list here (300,500... etc etc) but did read a rule of thumb in that props should be equal to or better yet less than the diameter of said motor , so with brut strength and ignorance I have 3 Hobbyking ST3007, 1100KV that and a goal of keeping it light , thou I think I have read that 3.3 kg was ideal for scale ?....Again a 90/90 build , having lost all feelings in both hands from spinal stenosis I must accept what I can do now to what I once did or able to do with just a little more effort... Thank You All for your posts and help , and posting of videos online they bring me great pleasure and enjoyment ....Thank You

6 years ago by BW3

Response

S 100 RC build

Hi Doug yes I did try the three prop set up first MFA 385's if I remember correctly running on a electronize 30 speed controler.but replaced them with a Graupner eco 500 I think ?

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Response

S 100 RC build

I have a liking for italeri kits myself. Built the Vosper MTB in 2011 then the PT 109 a few years later. They really perform well either with single or triple props. Both of mine have 480 brushed motors, single props, and 2s Lipo 2200mAh. ideal for small ponds where you can maintain scale speeds and if easy on the throttle you can have a decent endurance before the battery goes flat. Boaty😁

6 years ago by boaty

Response

S 100 RC build

The name Toyota came from a Japanese boy who was given a toy boat to play with !!! His reply to his father was " TOY - O - TA" !!!!! Canabus

6 years ago by canabus

Response

S 100 RC build

Hi Ron, did you ever try 3 props for comparison? If yours is the 1:35 italeri I don't see any problem with space for 3 shafts. I have an approx 1:35 MTB currently with 2 shafts, 'as seen and bought' next season I propose to fit a 3rd motor and shaft: port and starboard for cruising, switch-in centre motor for "All ahead flank"! BTW: I have a couple of kits for the S100 ", otherwise known as E Boat, E for Enemy😉, one Airfix and one Revell, both 1:72. I intend to fit them with 3 motors as well - 'Plastic Magic' 😁 Motors already sourced from X-Drive, shafts will be home brew from silver steel and brass tube with sintered phosphor bronze bearings. "Nothing is impossible", I drive a Toyota 😉😉 Cheers Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

S 100 RC build

Coming along nicely , I have done the conversation of this kit myself some years ago when it first came out . I had to make the propshafts myself as the conversion kit wasn't available then but I found that it handled better using only one prop rather than the intended 3 props plus the lack of space inside the hull for the rest of the electrics. Ron

6 years ago by kmbcsecretary

Forum

FS: Robbe PT-15 KIT

From my personal model stash: PT-15 This kit is the 1/40 scale Robbe kit approx 34 long and 9 inches wide when built. A new kit, but I do not have the original box for it. . It APPEARS that everything is in the box including the ROBBE PT-15 Fittings Set 1098 (For PT-15 Kit, No 1097). Stuffing tube, motor and prop are included. The plans and an instructions book that does have English instructions is also included. Contact me if you have any questions about the kit, or would like detailed pictures. Price is $200USD plus shipping ( keep in mind it is a large box...) The price of this new is $390 plus tax see http://www.loyalhannadockyard.com/ROBPT15.htm for more information I also will be listing a Robbe E KIT shortly, for the same price.....

6 years ago by bustedknuckles

Response

Rudders and propeller

Wonderful craftmanship.I had a just a little bit larger.I used 3 speed 400's.Had no problem with them.The boat moved at a scale speed.That's one option to try.

6 years ago by Donnieboy

Directory

(Naval Ship) s100

3x motors. 2xouter for cruising, 1x centre for fast speed on a35mm prop, also 3x rudders. this is a italeri 1/35 scale (Motor: mfa500x3) (9/10)

6 years ago by thepirate

Forum

Newbie radio control question

Hi teejay, which are you building? The S-100? They were generally known in England as E-Boats. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-boat I have the Revell 1/72 kit, vid on this link shows what some guys can do with it! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4oBL9W4LVo 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

(Naval Ship) Schnellboat

Hi. Not scratch built,and not quite finished yet but from the italeri 1.35 Plastic kit.Sails really well, and has a good turning circle even using the three rudders provided with the kit.I have fitted all three shafts but only connected two at this time.Centre shaft is running free but I am able to connect a third motor if I wish. Customised to suit my likes and NOT exactly to real time paint scheme. Front and rear guns rotate on separate servo systems from a six channel Futaba system.Also has an engine noise generator coupled in with forward/reverse. Really nice addition to the fleet on the water. On a separate note the video clip is of a smoke generator just fitted to my Corvett and not connected to the .Just a tester. (Motor: MFA Torpedo 400 x 2) (ESC: Mtroniks Viper) (8/10)

7 years ago by Scratchbuilder

Response

& Fairmile D

Thank-you. We use car drive belts to assist with launch and retrieval of the boats. They are easy to carry about, maintain their shape in the water and don't slip from under the hulls. these belts are about 900mm long so you won't have to bend far when launching.

7 years ago by reilly4

Response

& Fairmile D

Excellent boats. i have scratch built a vosper 510 1/24 scale known as the long boat. Im also building a 73" vosper 379 which has become a bit of a project? its a bit big and i am not looking for trying to sail it in my local pond. last time i tried it i nearly chucked myself in the pond to the delight of some onlookers.

7 years ago by andyhynes

Response

& Fairmile D

Thought it didn't look like UK, but more like Perth WA foreshore!

7 years ago by manyboats

Response

& Fairmile D

Thanks. The location is Albert Park lake in Melbourne, Australia. The now has a brushless motor, and my Fairmile D has 2 x Graupner 700 12v motors.

7 years ago by reilly4

Response

& Fairmile D

They go so nicely.... where is the location?

7 years ago by manyboats

Media

& Fairmile D

Both boats are 1/24 scale The E boat belongs to a good friend. it has just had a new camouflage pattern added. The Fairmile D is scratch-built, it took nearly 4 years to build, launched in 2011. The sound effects were added for fun. The location is Albert Park lake in Melbourne, Australia

7 years ago by reilly4

Response

S 7

This particular version of Schnellboat is one I have been looking at for some time to build after I complete my current project of Smit Rotterdam. Being Scratch-built, I think you have done a particularly good job of it. Did you draw up the plans for this yourself or are they available on the internet for purchase. if I dont build this next it would be one I would like to build in the future.

8 years ago by blucher

Response

S 7

Looks good for 'a toy'. Happy boating. 😊

8 years ago by johnfastboat

Blog

ItalerI S-100 build

I am brand new to this website and have just purchased the 1/35 ItalerI S-100. I would like to convert to radio control and welcome any advice on parts, suppliers and technique. I'm a decent modeler but this Is my first boat. Any help would be appreciated such as: where do I begin?

9 years ago by wolfpack

Media

S 7

scratchbuilt from ply and balsa wood powered by two Caldercraft 750 motors to 40mm props only took about three months to build as a winter project its not perfect but was never meant to be more than a toy, 54 inches long and gives a good response in speed and handling

9 years ago by solekontrole

Response

I'm building a 1/24 S100 and I like to see what others have doen to give me ideas, I intend to do some weathering as well and I appreciate seeing your pics.

9 years ago by deadbeat

Media

s100

This was the 1-35 scale plastic model kit and converted to RC 3 props 2 working port and the starboard the centre is non running. Due to weight I used a 11.7 lipoly battery so it's fast but the running time is only about 20 30 mins It won best in show in the navy boat section at our club due to the detail and the figures so can't be bad

9 years ago by Spitfire99

Directory

(Fast MTB) S100

Build from a plastic model kit and converted to RC (Motor: MFA 400) (ESC: Metro is 15amp) (8/10)

9 years ago by Spitfire99

Media

First attempt at weathering, Kind of ok but ?????

9 years ago by topperles

Response

36'' Firefloat Maiden voyage

Sorry haven't up dated this, figures are converted Tamiya tank crew ! RTTL now complete, also Corvette, plastic kit in fibreglass hull, yet to launch. Just started .....

11 years ago by Bluethunder

Blog

ItalerI 1/35th Scale - R/C conversion

I have often loked at these kits, especially after converting a similar MTB made by the same company, so know how reasonably easy it is to do, so when "YET ANOTHER" "Ebay Bargain" came up, I could not resist. YEP, a "part built" 1/35 scale s boat, mine for a mere £40 ! And these kits run for between £99 - £175. So the boat arrived today, opened the box and have to say the original builder has not done a bad job so far, the hull support cross beams are superb and really stiffen the hull up a lot. I am leaving the upper deck off for a while untill the motors and shafts are fitted and tested, but at least with italeri, they supply a set of minI self tapping screws to hold the deck down, so very useful for setinning up, but not really much good "waterproof wise" once ready for the water. One job to sort out, was to seal the forward torpedo tubes, to reduce risk of water ingress in to the hull at speed, so the nicely hinged outer doors have had to be glued closed, I also cut the inner ends of the tubes flat and bonded on a plastic disc to these ends to act as secondary seal too.

12 years ago by Gregg

Response

S80

yup thats the one,little sh*ts,...but they've been locked out now,and their not getting back in

12 years ago by wullie

Response

S80

That's not the one that got pooped on is it Wullie ?

12 years ago by bilbo

Media

S80

This is my 1/24th scale S80 ,it has a Metcalfe GRP hull,the superstructure is a mix of 3mm/4mm ply and 2mm plasticard,it has 3 x Graupner 600FG motors that have a 3.1 ratio gearboxes fitted,the props are 55mm witches hat type,and it has 3 x Electronize 30amp speed cont,it has a really good scale speed running on 2 motors but nearly jumps out of the water when all 3 are engaged,It was scratch built from plans,but not by me,I got it in plain grey,I did the paint job and added the crew,I sail her on a pond near to my home in Edzell,

12 years ago by wullie