Blog

WWII Italian MAS 562

Skinned the frames added deck and splash rail also started on cabin and superstructure, added rudder and installed twin brushed Graupner 600 motors via Graupner style direct couplings. Motor mounting system through a bulkhead gives extra support to motors which mount on to end of the shafts. currently adding a rudder mount, as rudder is a close copy of the real boat's and still functional.

6 years ago by CB90

Forum

powered winches for pusher tug.

I wanted to be able to attach a barge to the bow pusher posts of my Egrete Pusher tug. BUT did not want to simply use a couple of bits of elasticated rope, would not really look "right" or would be prone to failure. So after a bit of searching around I found a nice little geared motor set/kit In Maplins, think It was only A£9.99 or less, I know Is wasn't much. Anyway, It was possible to swap teh gears about a bit till I got the speed of the winch drum to a nice slow pace, so not to grab at the winch cables too quickly and cause problems. The motor assembly comes with Its own mounting plate, so nice and easy to mount Inside the winch house of the pusher tug, the cables ran through the actual cable pipes through the forward bulkhead. All I had to do was make sure that the actual "tow posts" on the barge were bonded deep In to the hull of the barge, to take the load, especially when turning. The motor operates on 3v so I just used a maplins twin AA battery pack, and wired up a couple of micro switches on top of a normal . So by using one channel of the transmitter, I now had "in/out" control over the winch via one of the joysticks.

12 years ago by Gregg

Blog

Robbe PT15

Hi y’all. Did a little trading with my buddy Larry Buchwalter a few months back, came home with a just started Robbe Paula III and a NIB Robbe PT15. I don’t have a military boat in my fleet, and, since I’ve wanted one of these kits for quite a while now I decided to start building on her last week. I’ve made a few changes, laid the rudder on its side instead of standing up. To me it’s more secure that way. I had to make up a mount from scrap balsa and ply. However, where it mounted made it difficult to install or remove the arm as the hatch edge of the deck would be in the way. I mounted the with Allen head screws, and an Allen head screw retains the arm. I also enlarged the aft hatch, which gives me room to service the if needed. I also cut downs the stock battery tray to save room, and mounted it off just off center. I’ll either be using a 6 cell pack or 2 cell LIPO for power. Speaking of power, this kit came with both the fittings kit and a Robbe navy geared drive. I’ve decided to use the gearbox, shaft and prop, but I’m ditching the EF76 motor for a silver can Mabuchi 540, my resining being that the stock motor has a lot of torque, but might fall on its face on 6 cells (the plans originally called for an 8 cell 9.6 volt pack). I think the 540 will do fine, but I might try to dig up a Graupner Speed 600 and use that. I’m still open on power. Anyway, the hull is built, gearbox and rudder installed, rudder linkage and rudders mounted. This boat will challenge my skills, as it’s not quite as easy to build as some of the other Robbe kits I’ve built. There’s lots of details, but fitting the deck to the hull in this boat was...well, it was a job. It looks okay, everything is straight, but I do need to do some filling and sanding to make it really right. I have pics of what I’ve done so far, any questions or comments fire away! Cash

5 years ago by Cashrc

Blog

twin s

now looking at running 2 s on continuous rotating but having trouble sinking them (Glug glug glug!😁😉😎) any help out there i am using 2 x 9g s, so the row boat can turn ????

5 years ago by jacko

Blog

Bulkheads and motor fit.

And it was all going so well! If all else fails, read the instructions and look carefully at the drawings. Having removed deck camber beams, mid deck bulkheads and longitudinal stringers from the CNC sheets, I glued the assembly together and taped it to a flat surface to dry, as per the instructions. However, as you can see from the two magnified sections in picture 1, the deck camber beams and stringers are not flush. I only became aware of this after glueing the assembly into the hull and trying to dry fit the aft deck. Once again, the trusty Dremel with cutting disc attached came into its own and I managed to rectify the problem - not without difficulty. Before glueing the bulkhead assembly into place I fitted the motors. As I have already mentioned, with the propshafts parallel to the hull, there is very little clearance for the motors. However, with the offset shafts on the 2.5:1 540 geared motors, this was not a problem. I used vac formed plastic 'cradle' motor mounts and standard universal couplings. I am now a great believer in using proprietary silicone sealant to fix the motors onto the mounts. This not only cushions vibration but allows tweaking of the final line up, which I do by eye. Before the sealant sets, I run the motors and further tweak to get as little vibration as possible. See pic 4. With motors in place it was time to fix the bulkhead assembly into the hull. Instructions suggest using slow cure epoxy, but I used Gorilla glue, which does the job just as well, without the trouble of mixing. Included in the bulkhead assembly is the tray for the rudder and with that connected and the power plant -two 12v 7ah lead acid batteries - in place, sea trials were fast approaching.

5 years ago by cormorant

Blog

Fire Monitors Part 2

The fire monitor columns are constructed from two lengths of brass tube with various bits added, either for appearance, or for function. The short tube is 8mm o/d and has a brass collar added. This tube will eventually be glued into a hole in the cabin roof. I had to make these tubes a little longer than shown on the plan to ensure that the rotating monitor would not foul the lifebelts on the engine room roof. The second, longer tube is 7mm o/d and forms the rotating column. It will slide into the shorter 8mm tube. It carries the water from below deck up to the monitor at the top of the tube. A brass bush is soldered into the top of the tube and the monitor body is soldered into that bush. Part way down this tube, a brass collar is soldered to act as a bearing point against the top edge of the larger tube when everything is assembled. The bottom of the 7mm rotating tube was plugged with brass and then drilled and tapped with a female M5 thread. The coupling is a brass boss with a disc of 0.5mm brass sheet soldered on. This was then turned to be circular before 4 brass pins were added to engage with the arm. The top of the boss is threaded with an M5 male thread to screw into the rotating column. A short length of 3mm copper tube is attached to the side of the boos to provide the water connection point. The centre of the M5 screw is drilled out 3mm to allow the water to pass into the rotating column. Plasticard was used to add some details to the columns and then the monitor was rigged up on a mock up of the cabin roof and connected to a to test out the rotation. An electronic pulse stretcher was built to give 180 degrees of rotation for the monitor. I would have liked a little more, but the doesn't seem capable of accepting more than 0.5 - 2.5mS pulse width. Finally everything was stripped down, de-greased and painted using rattle cans. First with grey etch primer and then with 'Toolbox red' as suggested by Robbob. I have just realised, while writing this that I should not have painted the lower sections of the rotating tubes as these need to slide into the shorter tubes. Ah well, it will be easy enough to scrape that bit of paint off! (I'm sorry that the photos are not ordered in the correct sequence for the description. It doesn't seem to matter how I name the photos, or upload them, they just take on a random order of their own. Anyone know a solution to this?)

5 years ago by Graham93

Blog

36'' Thames River Police Launch by Robbob

After the successful build of the ‘Vintage Model Works’ RAF Crash Rescue Tender I was asked by Mike Cummings of VMW if I would undertake to build a prototype of their new model with the aim of checking the construction method and the assembly instructions for accuracy before the kit is put into production. The model is a ‘Thames River Police Launch’ and is based on the original design by Phil Smith for the Veron company, this was a very popular model kit in the late 50’s and 60’s and sold for the princely sum of 43 shillings and tuppence, approximately £2.15 in today’s money but an equivalent cost of £48.50 in 1960. This design has been updated to accommodate electric propulsion and radio control by Colin Smith, the son of the original designer and it has been re-scaled to be 36” in length where the original was 24” which gives much more scope for detailing and provides more ‘hiding room’ for the drive, control systems and all the associated wiring. The kit produced by VMW uses the same construction techniques as the original and the materials are a combination of balsa and plywood both of which a laser and CNC cut for precision. The ply and balsa materials supplied are of very high quality as one would expect from VMW and all the stripwood for the chines, rubbing strakes and deck detailing is included, even the dowel required for the mast is in the box, very comprehensive! The kit also includes white metal fittings such as the fairleads and stanchions, and the searchlight and horns. The glazing for the windows comes in the kit too. The instruction sheet supplied is in need of revision as it is largely taken directly from the original as written by Phil Smith and some of the terminology needs updating, for instance the ply bottom and side skins are referred to as ‘strakes’ but I understand that a re-write of the instructions is in hand along with an updated plan showing the best positioning for the motor, prop-shaft, battery, ESC, receiver, rudder and . During construction I have added a few additional pieces of ply or balsa as reinforcement or supports and substituted some balsa parts for ply where I thought a stronger material would be better. I also added some hatches to give access to the wiring at the bow and the rudder & at the stern but largely I have not gone ‘off plan’ to any extent. The pictures show the model in it’s present state (Nov 2018) and is ready for painting and finishing.

6 years ago by robbob

Forum

Motor reversing

Hi Peter, When the Gato submarine is ballasted correctly you will be surprised just how little water is required to start to submerge it. I used standard s as that was all I had,but if you use the 9g small s you will end up with a lot more room and it will be lighter so you will require more ballast. Martin.

5 years ago by Martin555

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build N

Thanks John, nice compact set-up. Mine will end up the same but with one less link. The plastic tube is the link between the 2 rudders and is very stiff R/C aircraft inner control cable. Once cut to final size it will have a steel rod stiffener inside along with the threaded rod inserts, (could just use threaded rod but probably won't need it as the link will only be about 2 1/2" long). If I had the height, your set-up would be great but with the deep open cockpit there is unfortunately no room ( plus rudder tubes need to be tall enough) and I have to run the cable along under the deck. I've used this system in my MTB (rudder is in the bow) and 100 series HSL and it has worked with no problems re- maneuverability (see my Thornycroft MTB vid). As long as everything is braced and without play it works well. If you don't have to make a right angle at the stern you can make a direct connection to one side of the link arm also, as with some full sized boats with hydraulic or Morse cable steering (twin o/boards for eg -one steers the other - outer cable fixed to o/b bracket, steers 1 and they have a link rod at the back). I'll have a look at using your set-up if I make another twin model, as I like the idea. John B

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

jitters

Sorry Eric but the pic didn't upload! Seems to be a snag on the site at the moment☹️ Re Tester, Mine is a Robbe unit which as been working great for years. Unfortunately Robbe is defunct. 😂 But if you Google RC tester you should get many options. There are also kits on the market to build your own. If all else fails, and you can use a soldering iron😉, I can send you a circuit diagram for a tester based on the NE555 timer chip. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Response

Re: Z-39 German WW2 Destroyer

Well I'm damned! That's exactly how my HMS Hotspur started out when I was 15! 52 years ago, Tempus Fugit 🤔 Based on the old 1/600 Airfix kit! Back then no digital micros, PCs, Internet or 3D tech☹️ I used calipers, a crude plastic micrometer, Dad's steel rule (half mm and 1/64th scales) and a slide rule. Drew the plans at 1/72 on an 'endless' printer roll Dad brought from the RAF Cosford Tech Training School, where he was chief syllabus writer for the Radar Tech courses. Much much later (32 years ago) I made my own decoder board with relays to switch the lighting, smoke and horn circuits. All operated from one channel at the TX. mounted micro switches provide for two further functions. Looking forward to your sketches / photos very much👍 For my turrets I used one reduction gear and a pulley system to increase the 'firing arc' to ~270°. The whole shebang is mounted underneath the aft deck section so all comes out together for servicing. Think I'd better continue this in 'Retro Build Blog'!😮 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

(Life Boat) Taymar

Model Slipway Taymar Lifeboat and just completed the glassfibre hull, deck and installing motors, bow thruster and rudder (Motor: Graupner 600 x2) (10/10). The deck was a bad fit into the hull and a battle to fix but with hour long epoxy and lots of sellotape pulling the hull against the deck I got there in the end

6 years ago by Brianaro

Forum

Model Slipway Tug AZIZ

Further to the previously mentioned craft, the Model Slipway Tug/supply vessel 'Aziz' is also for sale. 1:50 scale, and measuring just over 110 cms. Again, constructed to the highest of standards, and with excellent detail, the craft has been used only sparingly. As with the other boats, the radio/electrical gear needs attention, as it is only presently fitted with the two motors and the rudder . This is a very impressive looking vessel, and I will give serious consideration to any offers that may be forthcoming. Many thanks, Dave

5 years ago by Davecounty

Response

Mount

Accidently deleted posts - Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 3 ) hi there With regard the rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and and it is not set up quite right - a movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the to the outer hole on the arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the , because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the . Admittedly, this problem where you wear the out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer s Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the on it's side.😲

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Mount

Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the from the rudder during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the , not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out. Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the arm has two arms maybe for a reason? At the end of the day its personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy engineering, wait while you see the mast!

5 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

Cooling the motor – update.

I’m grateful to mturpin013 for commenting that he considered using the propeller adaptor supplied with the Turnigy motor as it prompted me to retrieve mine from the box and adapt it to secure the fan on the end of the motor. I cut off the threaded shaft from the prop adaptor and the end was ground flat and then I placed it on the end of the motor stub and used a scriber through the bolt holes to mark the positions on the flange of the fan. The fan was then removed and the holes drilled through and opened up to 3mm and then it was a simple matter to put the fan back on the motor and attach the new piece to the motor using the three 2.5mm cap head screws which are supplied with the prop adaptor. I think this is a far better ‘engineering’ solution to securing the fan to the rotor than a spot of CA. Because the addition of the fan was so straightforward and effective I have decided to implement it on the model anyway so I cut an opening through the end panel of the motor cover and put some stainless steel mesh over that to finish it. The motor is now connected to the ESC and I have done some tests with the motor running and I’m delighted to report that there’s a very healthy airflow through the motor cover 😁👍. It turns out that my modification is not unique at all and credit is due to reilly4 who did something similar to the twin motors on one of his boats long before I came up with the idea. He posted a ‘photo of his boat when replying to mturpin013 on the subject of mounts. Take a look at the motors in his picture!

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Enclosing the controls.

Hi Boaty. Thank you for you compliments, I'm pleased you're enjoying my build blog 😁. The VMW kit has been developed really well and does credit to the original designer so definitely put one on your 'to-do' list. The kit is now available from VMW: http://www.vintagemodelworks.co.uk/?page_id=18 The in mine is actually in a rear compartment that I formed and involves a bit of 'keyhole surgery' to work within but it means that the and all the operational running gear is very neatly hidden away, another benefit of the re-scaled version of this boat 👍. PS. Note the relocated antenna ! Robbob.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Enclosing the controls.

From Boaty I am following your post with interest as I had been thinking about building a Police Launch in the near future. Models with aft cockpits can present issues when installing RC gear and I have experienced this when building an Aerokits Sea Scout and five years ago when restoring the Crash Tender. Simplest method is to install the horizontally and raise the cockpit floor but this can create problems in itself unless the floor is sealed around the edges to prevent water entering the compartment. The seat idea is a realistic method as it could be eliminate the problems that I mentioned above as well as providing easier access to the RC gear. Keep up the good work Boaty😁

5 years ago by boaty

Response

Mount

Just moved these two posts that were posted further down my blog by mistake as they are significant to the discussion and bring back the subject as I think its important as I would like to know if any others have a view. the photo is Johns Response by JOHN on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 2 ) hi there With regard the rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and and it is not set up quite right - a movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the to the outer hole on the arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the , because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the . Admittedly, this problem where you wear the out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John Response by RNinMunich on the 6th Mar 2019 Modify ✓ Like This Post ( 1 ) In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer s Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the on it's side.😲

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Mount

Hi reilly4. Thanks for your response. I didn't think it was a standard feature, it does seem to work though and I did note your water cooled motor mounts too. Hi Mike. Sorry to hi-jack your thread 😉.

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Mount

Robbob, This was my first venture into using brushless motors so I was a bit uncertain on cooling. I made the fans from aluminium and bolted them on at the existing 2mm bolt locations. Someone told me they wouldn't rev fast enough but I think every bit helps. I also have water cooling at the front plate of the motors. The end result is that the motors never get warm, even after an hour of sailing around the lake at good speed.

5 years ago by reilly4

Blog

Brave Borderer

During our protracted wait for Spring, have had chance to reflect on the earlier tribulations with the brushless motor installation. My enthusiasm was sparked by an article on getting the best from your Tx in a magazine and the advantages of using the Elevon or V Tail facilities if available. My Flysky Rx/Tx has this facility, so after some experiments, set the boat up to use the Elevon function. This puts both motor ESCs on the same control lever, so advancing the control accelerates both screws equally and moving to either side accelerates, or slows the appropriate motor. Think this will reduce the coordination previously required to sail in a straight line. Fresh from that success decided to experiment further. The Tx allows reducing throw, so tried that too so could reduce the max. ESC output, it also seems to work. One problem with the original layout was that if the forward speed was reduced quickly it was very easy to move the lever through the neutral point, overshooting into reverse. This immediately reversed that motor causing erratic operation. The Tx also has a “Dual Rate” facility to adjust the lever response from linear to various alternate rates. This allows the neutral point zone to be increased, so the tendency to overshoot into reverse is reduced. Bench tests of these adjustments suggest the model will be easier to operate. Hope they will make controlling the models performance better in our closest pool, which is quite small. A further precaution to prevent inadvertent operation of the brushless motors when using the centre, brushed one, was to add two small relays; one into each of the white ESC signal wires. This allows a another channel on the Tx to be used to select, or deselect the brushless motors. Anticipate that by turning this channel and thus the brushless ESCs off, manoeuvring can be accomplished without the operation being overwhelmed by a brushed motor inadvertently being operated. My patience for Spring is getting thinner!

5 years ago by Rowen

Response

Search light

In the wrong post but sensible stuff John.👍 Hadn't considered it before but it certainly makes sense to me that a dual linkage will help cancel the backlash from the rudder. And hence stop the motor having to fight it. That would reduce potential 'hunting' of the and also take the strain off the gearing. Probably not a noticeable problem for short term rudder commands or in small, light models. But could be in the heavyweights with big rudders I suppose. like Mike said (sort of); makes yer think!! More power to yer s Gents. Cheers, Doug 😎 PS Dual linkage not possible in some situations, see pic of cramped space in my Sea Scout. Had to lay the on it's side.😲

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter

Peter,here i put photos of simple switch., constructed by Petr Hajek (ufon 13).I use the same switch for switching sound modules (siren + foghorn) Channel 2 in my model ps Lulonga. I do not know why you are not using channel 3 (throttle) to control the engine via ESC.... Regards Tom 😊

5 years ago by tomarack

Response

Mount

Two reasons for a double linkage, firstly with a single linkage the pressure exerted on the from the rudder during a L/H turn will put the linkage in tension, and when doing a R/H turn then the linkage will be in compression. is it possible this could have an effect on the electronic mechanism in the ?, not that I have any expertise in this area, however with two linkages this is equalled out. Secondly, and the main reason, is that it may not be necessary, it may be overkill, but I like symmetry, and the arm has two arms maybe for a reason? At the end of the day it's personal preference and it’s good to foster debate and you may find a lot of the parts I make may not be necessary to most people but I enjoy engineering, wait while you see the mast!

5 years ago by mturpin013

Response

Search light

hi there With regard the rudder linkages - I was advised that it is always best to use the 'push/pull method' of linkage - as this has two strong points in its favour. The first problem it alleviates is - sometimes if on a single connection between rudder and and it is not set up quite right - a movement can force the rudder tiller arm to come back on itself under certain circumstances - i.e. when the distance from the centre of the to the outer hole on the arm isn't equal to the centre of the rudder post - to the centre of the linkage arm on the rudder. The second problem - you can get an odd strain on the gearing in the , because on some models there is a fair bit of force on the rudder blade - whilst the model is in motion & turning to port or starboard. The way to think of this, you are riding a pushbike and holding the handlebars with one hand and you are trying to turn a sharp corner - think of how much strain and effort you have to put in. Now, if you have a double linkage to either side of the tiller arm from your - that strain now is balanced and is evening out the strain in the . Admittedly, this problem where you wear the out only happens on very rare occasions - but - as the old saying goes 'belts and braces/better be safe than sorry'. John

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Turnigy Standard 9x transmitter

Hi, As I see, there is a problem. The basic question is - what you need to control, and the other - whether this type of RC kit will allow this. Especially .. this type is mainly designed for aircraft control. You need to choose compromises to control the ship model. This type does not allow simple switching of functions - only by means of another switching module, or by means of end switches on the modified . in the base allows only proportional control of s or ESC. There are RC sets, that have switching functions, such as Graupner - e.g. Graupner mc-20 12-Channel HoTT but these are far more expensive... The basic wiring is the 3rd throttle for engine control (ESC), channel 4 for control of the rudder. there is a possibility to use channels 1 and 2 for switching the added end switches but it is not possible to switch them permanently (perhaps with the help of the added relay)-. channel 5 can be used - setting> AUX> GYR> PIT TRIM - (rotary potentiometer control.) similarly channel # 7. AUX settings> HOV THRO Channel No 8 - AUX Settings> HOV PIT Operate again using rotary potentiometers - see function descriptions. These channels again allow only proportional control. Switching can be done (maybe) using channel # 6 settings >AUX>FLP> Gear ON/OFF (I did not try this) It is good to get familiar with the setting of the individual elements and check this on the display for the test (without the connection of the receiver !!) before you all plug in the model. I hope it helped you a little bit.. Tom

5 years ago by tomarack

Response

Mount

The mount on my Crash Tender came from China, unfortunately I don't have the machinery or skills that Mike has. I found the single linkage to be more than adequate. reilly4. I note that your motors have fans attached (first 'photo), are they standard on those motors ?

5 years ago by robbob

Response

Mount

The aluminium mount is similar to what I have used, but the quality here is a step above excellent. 👍 I use aluminium angle sections as well, so they can be made into a Z section depending on the application. I use 2mm to 3mm diameter bolts and drill and tap into the sections to secure the s. This method can be used on any size of as they come in various sizes. I have also noticed that some modellers put two linkages on rudder s. if both linkages worked in tension only (ie both pulling), then this is necessary, but if the linkage is a rod that works in both tension (pulling) and compression (pushing) then there should be no need for duplication. None of my models have this arrangement.

5 years ago by reilly4

Response

Mount

I'm curious to know why you opted for the 'push - pull' arrangement for the linkages?. Nice piece of metalwork, and polished to a mirror finish too...dazzling 😎 Rob.

5 years ago by robbob

Forum

Aziz, Westerriff, Assurance Envoy for sale

Thank you for your kind comments, and yes, all of the ships have been built to a very fine standard. With the Aziz already fitted with two motors and rudder , there is little to do in order to set sail. They have all sailed previously, and I think that some of the RC components may have been transferred from one to the other, dependant upon the flavour of the month at the time. I can't sing the praises of these craft enough, they are impressive in every respect. They aren't in the way yet, but I am fearful that constant working around them could result in damage, so they sooner they sail off into the distance, the better. :-) Don't be afraid to make an offer, I do need to sell them all. Many thanks, Dave ( the site will also benefit from a sale, as a suitable donation will be made ).

5 years ago by Davecounty

Blog

Mount

mount I have looked and better looked for a decent mount but could not find one that suited the position I wanted to put the , so I decide to make my own. I bought some aluminium channel, which would act as a platform and base for the standard . Space in terms of height is at a premium and so some material had to be removed from the keel area to make sure the arms did not catch on the underside floor of the rear deck. As the space tapers in height from stern>forward then the best position for the would be next to the forward bulkhead

5 years ago by mturpin013

Blog

Auxiliary motor, rudder , bowsprit bitts

Back to posting again....I decided to added an auxiliary motor since I had several laying around and it will come in handy when I am tweaking the sailing setup in case I get stuck in the middle of the pond. Made a stuffing tube just like I did on my rescue tug build. Made a shaft from some 3/16" steel rod, threaded it and polished it up, works great. Photo of the aft section shows continued hull framing and upside down mount of the rudder . I will enclose the with the small pilot house as is typical on the barge. This will make maintenance and adjustment access easy. Yes, the build is wandering away from the true "Pearl" which I used the hull plans from. it will maintain the same sail plan, but I will modify some items for ease of RC use. Bowsprit will be retractable, bitts are shown in progress. The bowsprit will be made from a carbon fiber "arrow shaft". Mast will be wood and I am shaping out of maple that I have. Staring to plank the hull as well. More to come shortly, Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

RC circuit

Since your going to replace your Tx and Rx consider a computer radio like the taranis. Each of your rudder s can be on its own dedicated channel as can the ESC for each motor. Using the built in mixing functions you can "tune" the setup so as to get the effects your looking for plus you can do things like both rudders moving in opposite directions to give a brake effect. Setting up the mixing looks difficult but once your into it, it follows a logic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq_H9vzCz8g&t=21s

5 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Robbe Westerriff lotse pilot vessel

This boat is understood to be a Robbe 1:25 kit, constructed to a very high standard, and is the pilot vessel Westerriff. The craft is finished to the most exacting of standards and, whilst fitted with a motor, bow thruster and lots of wiring, will need additions and finishing to perform, with, battery, radio gear etc required. ( I also note there is no for the rudder ). It has sailed previously, and is provided with many attractive features, including operating water cannon, rotating radar, operating mast lights ( numerous ). The length is 106 cms, or a tad under 42 inches in old money.( The craft is supplied without the stand that is shown in the images. I am presently looking for a suitable stand, so if there is one out there to be had, please do let me ( or the new purchaser ) know. If further info or images is/are required, please do let me know. Again, I am looking for a reasonable and realistic offer for the boat, and all offers will be considered. The craft is presently moored alongside the previously mentioned Assurance class armed tug in South Manchester. ( also, the least I can do is to ensure that a suitable donation is made to the site following the sale of any of the craft that I am offering for sale ).

5 years ago by Davecounty

Forum

RC circuit

looking at flanking rudders you will need another working these and this can be either with a another channel or a Y connector working all s have a look at "Google" how flanking rudders work hope this helps

5 years ago by jacko

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Q.E.D. 😊👍 That's the main thing - whatever you do or how you do it - Enjoy it!! Apropos Normal or Reverse at the TX:- Terry is quite right. 👍 If I remember my history correctly the Reversing function was originally added many years ago mainly to accommodate the 'fly boys'. It made reversing s very simple when the confined installation space made mechanical reversing very difficult or downright impossible. For ailerons in thin wings for example. Have fun with your boat JB, and don't forget to put her in your harbour with some pics / video. All the best, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Being Sociable.

I have two steam boats, an Alexandra and a Tug which was destined for the bin, until my friend suggested that he may know someone who wanted it. I refurbished the boat and the steam plant went to Clevedon Steam who stripped it, reset the burner etc and added a few new bits, glass water gauge etc. The rudder is controlled by an electric motor, NOT a , so you have to return the motor to central after a manouevre, so you have to think well ahead of where you are, and where you want to be!!

5 years ago by CaptainFlack

Forum

Time to let go !

For some time now, I've been addicted to purchasing beautiful things, particularly well made things, without much thought for my family, my job, or where the heck I'm going to put them ! On one such escapade I helped out with disposing of a small flotilla of very well made boats, with the intention of keeping one, and having made my decision on which one to keep, the rest must now sail away ! I must admit that I'm a sucker for 'plug N play' the easy way out possibly, but I really don't yet have the time to build a kit myself, which is my aim for the future . Ho Hum. Anyway, enough about me, what about the boats ? I hear. Well, the first is a very well constructed Model Slipway 1:43 scale Assurance Class WW2 armed tug. The model has sailed previously, but is presently only fitted with a motor, rudder and various wiring. It will of course need finishing in this respect. The build quality is excellent, and is as it should be, except for a little attention required to the rigging, as visible in the images. Also, the white I.D. decals are slightly flaking, on the port side ( now I am being picky, but that's about the extent of 'things to do'). I guess the initiated will know the spec. but if any further info is required, please do ask. I am open to very sensible offers for this, and the other boats that I will be releasing. I purchased a collection, to save them from a commercial brokerage, and to retain one for my own use, which is now the case. Please do ask any questions, or let me know if you need further images of any aspect of the craft. Of course, I will not post, and it will be advisable for a prospective buyer to view first. The boat is presently moored in South Manchester, with easy access from the motorway network. Best regards.

5 years ago by Davecounty

Response

HMS Bustler

hi ya Marky, judging by your building skills - it wont take you much to move right over to radio controlling a model - if you have the skill to master building, you have the skills to master radio control. Go for it :-) heres an idea, look on some of the websites who sell radio gear and buy yourself a reasonably priced 2.4 handset with the receiver then you can purchase a couple of s to plug into the receiver along with a battery to power it all and then have a play around and find exactly what it does, and then programme if needs be. Golden rule, 27MHz 40 MHz &2.4 can be used on the land and on water only. 2.4 along with 35 MHz and be used for aircraft only. So 2.4 is the only one interchangeable between land and air. Basic rules for buying a transmitter in the UK anyway. amendment ,27MHz can also be used for aircraft👍 john

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Hi John, regarding the rudder, the 'Normal' and 'Reversed' designations are purely arbitrary. If you put a arm in one position on the , then remove it and place it at 180 degrees to the original position, the is reversed with respect to the original position. Try it with a spare and arm. The Normal/Reverse options on the transmitter are only there to allow for variations in to arm location variations. The 'Normal' designation is somewhat misleading. As far as the ESC goes, that is sorted by programming the ESC. That's my 2.7p worth. (5 cents Australian) Cheers, Terry

5 years ago by terrymiff

Response

Tug Brooklyn!

Except the smoker Ed? Looking forward to Nick's answer 😉 Like the whistle👍👍 How about a little steam release to go with it? operated valve to let a little 'steam' out from the smoker perhaps? (When you get the new one set up😉) Very nice build Ed Hat off 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Slightly confused newbie

Sorry JB but, Total waste of time and postage.😲 1. The Mtroniks ESC and your TX appear to be working as advertised. If you arbitrarily reverse the output at the TX then you must tell the ESC that, i.e. go through the Mtroniks setup process again. 2. if the whole thing works just fine with the reverse switch on the TX set to reverse - so what? Why mess about and waste money? There seems to be no particular standard for what is 'Normal' or 'Reverse' between manufacturers. I have noticed this phenomenon with several manufacturers. In particular between older 40MHz sets and 2.4Gig sets of recent Eastern manufacture. I just set the TX switches so that everything works the way I want and 'Bob's yer Uncle, Fanny's yer Aunt'. I really don't care if it's 'Normal' or 'Reversed' - "If it works - DON'T FIX IT!!" Whatever, I would be MOST interested in Mtroniks response. I don't believe there is anything wrong with the ESC.😉 Please post their answer 👍 And yes, I have several Viper Marines in operation with no problems. Just follow the instructions as John posted above, and IF you change anything at the TX - TELL THE ESC!! Good luck, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

hi there Colin - to stop confusion and people suggesting things that are totally 'confusing' 😊 1. What type of 2.4 transmitter do you have, what make and how many channels. 2. Can you put a photograph of your rudder in the model and the actual plug that fits into the receiver. This may not be compatible with what you are trying to do.

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Mtronics W-tail marine mixer connections.

My boat was already built with twin motor drive. So I will stick with what I have, may even keep the original rc gear and esc, if I locate a transmitter that will operate it successfully. But I thank you for your input, cheers Colin.

5 years ago by Colin H

Directory

(Yacht) Sea-Lite

Acquired this Sea-Lite sailing yacht as a project. Everything works after a fashion but based on mixed reviews the intention is to replace the radio gear, winch and rudder s and increase the keel weight (5/10)

5 years ago by Mids-Phil

Forum

Help with vintage rc.

hi there I am in agreement with DodgyGeezer about the reliability of vintage radio gear. I believe the Digi4 s were Linear movement, rather than rotary as in modern day s and yes some of the old versions were 4 wire; with male plugs at the end. One of the main downfalls of these old sets was thing called 'black wire' its where the negative side wire in the electrical wiring system actually turns black and corrodes. The only way to repair it is to actually renew the wiring and once you have it in one part of your radio system, it inevitably works its way through the whole of your radio system. The transmitters do turn up on that popular auction site. I have often fancied purchasing one just to play around with it - but I wouldn't trust one operating a precious model on the lake, because I can remember the 27 mghz radio gear being very prone to interference from the slightest thing.👍 john

5 years ago by JOHN

Forum

Help with vintage rc.

I think the Digimax had interchangeable crystals - but didn't it also have 4-wire s? if so, you will need a full Digimax set.... In general, it is not a good idea to use Vintage equipment unless you know what you are doing. The kit will be old, could need maintenance or repair (which may not be easy to source) and will have less range, reliability and interference rejection capability than modern sets. it will be 27Mhz. You may have to repair the electronics yourself. If you source a transmitter which SHOULD work with it, but doesn't, you will need expert attention to determine what is wrong - again, this will be hard to find. I assume that you do not know if that receiver works at the moment.... Running vintage radios is rather like running vintage cars. They look great when they are operating properly, but need a lot of work to maintain, and do not perform as well as modern kit. One source of help might be the Single Channel and Vintage RC group here - http://www.singlechannel.co.uk . They have specialists in old equipment...

5 years ago by DodgyGeezer

Forum

Emma C. Berry

I need some help. I've successfully refurbished my static display Emma C. Berry model and added remote control. I have the sails on a winch loop, I have the rudder on a , I even managed to add a motor, and an extended keel with weight. The one issue that I have not been able to resolve is maneuvering under sail. Primarily, I cannot get it to move through the irons when coming about. She responds and the sails will luft, she might even catch some wind but she never makes enough of a turn to change direction. I've already changed out the rudder for the larger size on the plans. I've also tried extending the depth of the rudder. Bottom line, she is mainly being driven by the current. In this situation, by current I mean whichever way the wind is blowing the small lake. It is a local park lake and doesn't really have any inherent current. My one suspicion is the keel I added. It is doing its job to keep her upright and providing some resistance but in the end, the underwater current is overpowering her response to the rudder and/or trimming the sails. See Photo. I had originally wanted to incorporate a more rounded profile on the ends of the weight and the shafts but I remember reading somewhere that it isn't that critical Sails are per the plans and made from the material that came with the kit (25+ years ago). I even added a couple of sailor figures but we still can't establish control. 😭

5 years ago by carpemoment

Blog

PS Iona - Steering

Fairly standard stuff, the steering. Rudder is made from brass and held to the stainless shaft with glue / pins. There's a chain drive from the to the tiller arm, both sides. is accessed from the stern hatch lifting off, and the rear grid (3D printed) also lifts off. Despite having individual drive to each paddle, the rudder is quite useful for steering, although with paddles driven in opposite directions, Iona will turn on the spot. Nice🤓

5 years ago by Harvey Kitten