All donations are securely managed through PayPal. Amounts donated are not published online.
Many thanks for your kind support
Join Us On Social Media!
🏝️ About This Website
☝️ Terms of Service
Model Boats Website
Model Boats Website
Boat Clubs & Lakes
Plans & Docs
Chris Craft Cobra by Dumas
No Hand stitching. I cut the material and had a friend that has a
do the sewing. I was very happy in the way it turned out. As for the gold painting it's the same paint I used on the fin. Both the seat are held in place by screws. I wanted to do the side walls the same way, but there's not enough room. The only thing that's holding up the completion is the glassing of the hull.
11 days ago by JBRCfloats
Are there fairies.
Hi DG. It looks a similar size, but definitely not the one I have. Plus that one has diametrically opposite brushes, whereas mine has three equally spaced brush positions. And I haven't seen the adjustable field windings on any
s vintage or new.
11 days ago by Colin H
Are there fairies.
, my other hobby is restoring vintage
Local retired electrical engineer thinks it may have been a generator /dynamo.
18 days ago by Colin H
Are there fairies.
Spare space might be for running in reverse Colin, (move a brush to the other side) or maybe for a different speed.? Maybe cancel thoughts on wiper motor, looks like a beast! Might have had drive belts on it at one stage (old converted
motor?) Industrial machine perhaps?
18 days ago by jbkiwi
Test outing today of newly completed aeronaut Jenny. Next outing will have a driver installed, but his shirt is on the
! Goes like stink on a Turnigy SK3 brushless motor, 50amp ESC, 3S 3000mah lipo and a kg of lead! Might drop it down to a 2s next time out and will get some running photos when I have assistance.
1 month ago by Skydive130
the other half has been a busy bee with her
so today i set about fully rigging her
10 months ago by jacko
Dressed overall for launch party back in June 2018
Very pretty 👍
"Splice the mainbrace chaps" 😋
Is that a converted Singer treadle
table I see before me?
Cheers, Doug 😎
11 months ago by RNinMunich
Prop Shaft Grease
Overall I would go for the silicone clear grease. it isn't actually clear but greyish appearance en mass but seems clear when spread thinly.I repeat that WD40 does not contain any silicone and never has done. it is not a lubricant but a release fluid and a moisture dispersant. it works well in conjunction with a light oil.
oil is ideal. Very low drag factor and good corrosion resistance.3 in 1 as good second choice for the mixture. Believe me from experience
2 years ago by onetenor
water, paint, copper
The gun deck isn't modeled. I was building a model intended to sail in open water and didn't want to deal with open gun ports, hatches, etc.
After glassing the hull, she got beams for the spar deck installed. 3/4" x 3/4", they're probably a bit more than was needed.
Tubes were installed for 5/16" stainless threaded rods that would hold her external ballast on. The forward one will be disguised as her galley stovepipe, the aft one is hidden under the cabin skylight. The ballast is a 2" i.d. PVC pipe about 4 feet long, filled with lead bird-shot, and weighing some 42 pounds.
With that much done, I took her to the creek to see her float, but I forgot the rods. A few days later I took her out again, remembering the rods, and put her lower masts in her.
Now baptized, I applied the moldings and trim on her stern, and built up her enclosed head.
Her gunport were molded in resin in the closed position with the guns clamped in the openings and a tampion in the muzzles. These were epoxied into gunports cut from the outer layer of glass and wood battens, leaving the matting in place as a backer.
Then she got some paint, mainly because I was getting tired of her looking like a barkless log. The bottom was painted with copper paint, but three rolls of 1/2" wide peel-n-stick tape had just arrived and I started into coppering her bottom right off.
Copper plates are nailed on with copper nails with counter-sunk heads through pre-punched holes in the copper sheets. The are FLAT with with a little hollow where they're driven in just beyond flush with the surface. They are NOT round headed nor look like rivets as so many models insist are doing. I pressed an impression of the nails into the face of each plate. installing them pushes this dent back out and leaves a little circle that looks as it should.
It took about a week to do one side, and I took a break to make the tops for the lower masts, then continued onto coppering the other side. it was bright and beautiful when finished, but it wouldn't stay that way. Copper doesn't turn green when submerged, any copper coin will show you it turns brown. I wanted her bottom to brown somewhat, but not too much, and I figured to let that happen naturally. When it got where I wanted it, I'd clear-coat it to lock it in.
Two yards of Dupont Supplex cloth was ordered to make her sails. This is the stuff SC&H used on their square-rigger kits and it's great for making sails. Being a nylon, you cut it with a hot-knife, and use a pointed tip in a soldering iron to make grommets. I drew on the panel seams with a .03 marker as even the finest stitching is over scale even at 1:36. Top-cloths, corner reinforces, reef bands, etc, are all cut from the same cloth and glued on with fabric adhesive. The only sewing was of the bolt-ropes. These are done by hand much the way real ones are - I've sewn a few miles of real bolt ropes in my time. There's really no substitute for this if you want a functional scale appearing sail. A machine can't sew it properly, in the right position, or securely.
2 years ago by Jerry Todd
(Tug Boat) TBC
Scratch built loosely based on the St Chanute ,made from recycled wood the winch is made from parts of an old
the mast is copper pipe and an artists paint brush handle the rails are split pins with 1.6welding rod soldered the rigging is cord from a venetian blind dyed using indian ink ,the only bought items were the propeller ,anchors ,paint and glue (ESC: scratch build) (5/10)
2 years ago by marky
Oil Sump for Gearbox?
Looks to be well made. I would ask Maritime as they may have experience of using the unit. it rather looks like the gears are carried on brass/Bronze shafts with similar bearings mounted in the ali side plates.
Whatever you use you will need to keep any grit etc out of the mechanism. A simple removable plasticard cover would help.
A spot of light machine oil (not 3-in-one) on each bearing before each sail would be my guess.
and model train shops sell light oils.
But do ask the supplier.
2 years ago by Dave M
That look great, I saw boats like that at a model engineering show earlier this year, I can't remember the name of where it was, but it was at some race course Anyway I was very Impressed with the boats on display, the sails colours look cool lol 😀 Can I ask how long did it take to plan/build, also did you use a
on the sails?
Thanks for reading & the time you spend on it 😊
5 years ago by Damon
Mate , Peter Dimberline wrote to me to offer some help from a colonial in suggestions for you , has somebody taken the backplate off and re bolted it back without the crank pin engaging in the rotor hole in the fuel induction pin hole ? maybe the fuel needle has been replaced without a taper in the end of the needle and the pin being manufactured in the motor is a non genuine needle replacement ? is there any ether in the fuel mix as the ether may have been evaporated off in storage ? maybe the needle hole in the needle air carby throat valve outer tube is glugged up over storage time and the engine seems to run on the prime only , ( soak motor in ether or acetone or methylated spirits overnight to de glug old castor residue then drain shake dry remove partly the backplate just enough for solvent to dribble all out then retighten backplate screws , then put some light type oil
type light oil drops in holes of motor and finger turn over to get oil in the innards etc , the old racers tended to have the needle open from about 2 turns out to near 2 !/2 turns out to be at the sort of general running setting , maybe the needle was tooooooo far open ? maybe the induction hole in the carby is not in line to the throat into the rear crankcase induction so that fuel air is drawn horizontally into the chamber ( hard to describe but easy to mis assemble if someone previously has readjusted and misaligned the induction flow) ? sorry for so many ideas to you but as regards fuel level, I have had engines suck up fuel from the bottom pipe inlet easily an inch below the needle level , but even a half inch uphill suck up is ok even if the tank is say 2 inches thick as you get a sort of pressure head effect which is rich to lean in run . A better idea is to fit/build in a "chicken hopper effect" in the main tank to give an EVEN fuel flow rate of delivery to the carby. Old Team racers did this successfully and it is good for diesels. All the best Lyle.
7 years ago by Lyle
HI Gregg, No I'm not sure whether there will be enough bite on these rudders (never gave it a though if I'm honest!) all I can say in my defence is that I copied them direct of off the plan that I have, hoping wherever the plan came from got it right, it will be a case of suck it and see, if not I have provision to change the size. Thank you for your interest.
Well I had a bit of a result today I bought 6 sheets of .6mm x 12" x 48" teak veneer for £10. An art shop just wanted to get rid of it, and they have more in stock. it has all come from the same tree, so the patterns match as well.
I also bought the blue leather for the upholstery for £10. Just got to persuade my wife to do the stitching, I could do it myself but I'm only allowed to service her
Well tomorrow looks as though no sailing or flying so I shall get on with sorting out the hull bottom first skinning, the hull has been rub down and the first thing to do is hoover the workshop out, there is dust everywhere!!
7 years ago by sharpy1071
fireboat cof g
It's been interesting to read the various views about lubrication. On some of my boats I've used vaseline mixed into a light froth with
oil, it seems much less prone than grease to drag and 'caking up' away from the surfaces it is supposed to lubricate and protect. has anybody else heard of or tried this ?
10 years ago by thelegos
fireboat cof g
Good advice Peter. Regarding the outer shaft, if the steel inner was bent it is possible that the outer has also been damaged. Replacing the shaft and bearings will only be successful if everything lines up and the shaft can rotate freely with no tight spots. The shafts pictured showing oiling tubes would be ideal - but as Peter advises use a light oil. When you have set it up the running sound should be similar to a well oiled
. Any rattles, squeaks or vibration should be identified and removed. There are different varieties of stainless steel, 303 grade will rust in time so try for 316 (marine grade) it is much more resilient to rust.