Forum

New Smoke Generators

HI to all, I hope everyone had a good Christmas... I have started a new line of smoke generators here In Australia, At the moment I have 2 sizes available and more on the drawing board. These new units will run on 12 volts and draw about 1 amp using oil based fluid. Two Sizes SG-1 80 x 45 x 50mm outlet 1/2" This unit Is design for the smaller craft or small spaces a neat little unit that performs great runs for 25mins on 1 fill of the tank (25mls) $65.00 SG-2 100 x 65 x 60mm outlet 1/2" Designed for the larger boats with a bigger tank and more powerful fan unit runs for 40min on 1 fill of the tank (35mls) $75.00 Both smoke generators can be connected directly to your power supply or to your motor for control of the fan speed ( Just need to make sure your speed controller can handle the extra power) you can set It up for 1 stack or 2 with 1/2" copper pipe fittings from your local Hardware shop.. Kit Includes : 1 x Smoke generator 1 x Smoke fluid (100mls) 1 x wire (300mm) 1 x nuts & washers Check out the short clip of the smoke generator SG-1 at youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3vpE0-ovlA or on my website www.modelboatsandfittings.com email: *Removed, PM Only - Admin*

13 years ago by shane

Forum

Furled sails powered yacht with inboard motor

Ron, It's tough to get a smaller boat to sail correctly, at least I have not had much luck. My cutter is 45" and over 30lbs, so I don't think my build will be of much help. Looking at your hull and keel design, typically the prop is in front of the rudder. You would probably have to cut out a half circle in the rudder, check out boats of this design... Joe

5 years ago by Joe727

Forum

U48 Tinplate Clockwork Diving Submarine

Ahoy Mateys, U48,this ones taken me ages due to a brief hiatus brought on by a touch of black death I caught. Anyway another bin salvaged effort made entirely from scrap tin and alarm clocks. No ballast tank in this one,the don't need them and dynamic dive on planes alone,or just surface run. Cheers Neil www.mclarenclockworksubmarines.com

5 years ago by mactin

Directory

(Other) A577

This model belongs to a friend of mine who had this in his attic where it got damaged and its condition deteriorated, he asked me if I would refurbish it. This is a static model and I have submitted this to help to show the variety of craft that the RAF Marine Branch operated in the 68 years of its existence. The Armoured Target Boat was the brainchild of the Air Ministry's "I've had a good idea" Department. The requirement was for a target boat that could be bombed from the air with practice bombs. The 40ft Armoured Target Boats were developed from the slightly smaller 37.5ft ATBs which had been designed by Scott-Paine and others at British Power Boat in 1932. A couple of years later, in 1934, whilst bringing the first of the 64ft HSLs into service, it was realised by the Air Ministry that the condition of the aircraft had been advancing and that it was necessary to provide additional protection to improve the first type of Armoured Target Boats (the 37.5ft type). T.E. Shaw suggested to Scott-Paine that he should increase the length of the 37.5ft type to 40ft and fit twin rudders. in addition the Air Ministry prepared a new armour plating arrangement which gave separate protection for the crew and engines and coxswain. There was a further alteration to the forward bulkhead which resulted in it being changed to vertical instead of raked fore and aft to overcome the new conditions for bombing. A long series of trials were carried out with the ballast with the 40ft type launch and eventually it was approved. The 40ft thus became the standard type Armoured Target Boat (ATB). The first batch of 15 craft of the 40ft type were ordered in 1935 with further batches being ordered in 1936, 1937 and 1938. A further addition was the introduction of a 3rd engine, this helped to maintain a good speed on the ranges, and helped to counterbalance the the boat as it had been found that in a tight turn the 37.5ft ATB had a tendency to roll over. (5/10)

6 years ago by colindavies

Forum

Veron Vosper F.P.B. 52''

The Veron F.P.B does appear to be a very rare model and I feel £300 would be a reasonable price especially when you take into consideration how much a modern day manufacturer would want. Just look at prices for Deans Marine models, mainly their Vosper M.T.B. which is a lot smaller. Also Veron kits seem to have been overlooked and the only model that is easy to obtain is the Slec version of their 26inch River Police Launch. Phil Smith was a great designer of boats and aircraft . I sold my Veron RTTL in the mid 1990s and my fleet today consists of one original Sea Commander, one 34 inch Crash Tender , both of which I restored, an italeri PT109 and two RTR fast electrics. TOP TIP for anyone who buys your F.T.B- trace around the parts and use them to build the model while keeping the kit intact. I do this with my Keil Kraft control line aeroplanes. B😁😎oaty

6 years ago by boaty

Forum

St Canute Planking Help?

Hey guys, I cannot thank you all enough for all these suggestions and advice, what a great website this is!!! I am swaying to purchase some blacks of balsa and give this a try, I did the same with my first model of the Billing Boat Norden (much smaller model) but on that occasion the stern block came with the kit. Does anyone have a website that I can purchase these blacks of balsa? I will try my local Hobbycraft store but they are sadly winding down on a lot of items. it is my intention to paint the St Canute the same colours as Billing Boats suggest, so none of the planks will be varnished but I will have a lot of sanding and shaping to do. Many thanks again to you all,👍 Kindest regards Richard

6 years ago by Richard7

Response

BRAVE BORDERER

Just put up another vid showing the speed at around 2/3 throttle which looks reasonably scale for 38 knots (bit hard to scale water movement as we all know!) and it doesn't squeal too much at this speed. Just been back through my old info on the ESCs and found I may be able to change a few things (forgot due to approaching dotage and so many projects on electric (18 planes as well converted from ic to electric) I was thinking with your high kv motors that if you can get away with smaller props or some the scale diam bit finer pitch props, that would allow the motors to rev how they should, but give you finer control. As I mentioned before, on 8v per motor they will spin at around 16-18000 rpm and won't like a big load (you've no doubt heard those delta wings scream) . My props are 28mm x 3 blade on a 2000kv motor and are spinning at around 12000 rpm (probably around 8000 rpm in the vid at 2/3 throttle) The general rule with brushless is the higher the kv the smaller the prop/pitch and vice versa planes or boats (would also apply to brushed) if you have an in line amp meter/batt checker you can check the amps drawn in the water at full power (have someone hold the boat) and see if you are under max A for the motor. You can then prop to suit if necessary. This is the only way to check for correct load and is an absolute must for aeroplanes. After a run, motors should be around cool to almost too hot to touch (60-70deg C) There are backplate water cooling units available for using out-runners in boats if necessary eg pic.

6 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER

A little anecdote to add to this build is that I was used to seeing both Swordsman and Boarderer in both Portsmouth and Portland whilst I was in the RN. (1960 "s} In fact we gave one of them a "lee" ie. got to windward of her in foul weather and helped her into Portland. She had some sort of mechanical problems. The stories one of them was moored on the smaller, walled wharf that they used away from the big one we on HMS Aurora used. As I said it was another rough night, most were in Portland . A yachtsman had crept during the night and tied up behind HMS Boarderer.( restricted area) Capt. told number one to go get the yachtsman to move his boat. Time was about 0400. Very tired yachty told no.1 to F off. No. 1 came back onboard and relaid to the skipper who went down reraised the yachty and got the same message! Skipper came back onboard and contacted the engine room and as it happened got a 'wet" start on the turbines. The loosely stowed sails on the yacht melted rather well!! Moral to the tale, Never tell a sailor to F off!! Bye the way both these boats had a top speed in good conditions , of in excess of 80 knots and in theory could circumnavigate uk in 12 hours. I remember that the always ran very flat on the water at planing speed. Regards, Nick.

6 years ago by nick

Response

Rebuild starts

Evening Peter, I can confirm that the Shapeways 50 cal sets are very brittle, at 1/35 very filigree and fragile. I haven't built them yet, just trial fitted the carriages in the gun tubs, whereby I discovered that they are a tick smaller diameter than the tubs😲 So they are on the back burner until I have the hull and propulsion finished. Which will itself have to wait while I finish the hull renovation / conversion of my ancient Billing Boats fish cutter. Re: Airbrush: why the hell waste over a hundred quid buying another? Just buy a selection of needles and jets for the one you have. Mine came with a range from 0.3 to 0.8mm. Seem to remember remarking that 0.5 is too small for hull spraying! I'll only charge 50 quid for the advice and you've still saved 50!! 😁😁😁 Re next project: I reserve judgement, until I see one of the current projects afloat! 😉 Whatever, have fun with it, Cheers, Doug 😎

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

SLA Batteries!

Mornin' Ed, Veery interestink! These PNP ESCs from mTronik are relativley new. I have some mTronik Viper Marine 10A for my smaller 'brushed' boats and on first use I simply have to teach them which way on the throttle stick is forwards and which backwards. Looking at the so called manual for your PNP version I note instructions and notes as in attached pics. How you re-train it I can't see! Maybe just start again from switch on, but watch what you do with the throttle stick. Also seems it 'adjusts' as you use it. Quite what that means they don't explain🤔 Give 'em a ring and ask! I guess you reckoned; 'OK PNP so who needs to look at the manual'! Common mistook!🤔 What do you mean by "I then have to switch it to go forward." Switch what, where and how? And what effect did it have? Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: what's that right next to the motor with cables trailing over the motor, and why can't I see any suppressor capacitors on the motor?

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Brass bashin' Chris Craft deck fittings...

I also enjoy restorations, Colin...just as much. Every challenge is different. This Chris Craft is a restoration of an Aerokits Sea Urchin that cost me all of 99p. on ebay! But then i thought it would be better made up as a single cockpit smaller runabout, hence the Chris Craft with the steeply tumblehomed stern. My son has an Aerokits PTB and my other son has a Sea Rover. I also have a Sea Urchin and a Veron Veronica yacht, so yes, I do like the restoration of old items. I have a pre War Marblehead in the loft too! I've never been interested in the big ships and service vessels. Only inshore sailing fishing boats and classic speedboats. If I can help you out with any info or techniques, let me know. I have a lot of books on woodies and years as a professional modelmaker to call upon. Cheers, Martin

6 years ago by Westquay

Forum

LiPo batteries

Hi Doug and all. Delay in answering your post as for some reason, my phone was useless on the internet. I did not see your post about checking the capacity percentage until I returned home, so that is why in April my checks were not complete. On my return to Hungary a couple of weeks ago, I checked the batteries and they were both at 3.85 volts per cell and at 51% capacity. When they were new, they were at 31% capacity. My new smaller batteries were also at 30% capacity and when I left on a storage charge, they are also at around 50%. The new, lighter 4S batteries are 1800mAh. On the first full charge they only gave me 89% capacity. I used them both, unfortunately they lasted about 6 minutes each, and recharged. This time they charged to 99% and lasted 10 minutes. Hopefully they get a little better after a few uses. I am now back in England and when I left, all of the batteries were at around 3.86 volts per cell an 50% capacity. I will check again at Christmas but I will have to see if the Danube freezes to see if I can use the boats then or not.😉

6 years ago by MouldBuilder

Response

20th Scale ELCO 80ft PT boat part 7

Hi RNinMunich, Should not be too bad as will cut ply slit/profile from tubes to the transom then reinforce inside under rudder compartment. rest of the tubes length are already supported. I really wanted to make sure the motors and shafts were in excellent alinement, and being able to see through the hull is a good advantage. (note. do not have facilities to make alignment tools). In previous models I have left it towards the end of the build to fix motors couplings and have found alinement to be a bit difficult, especially on .

6 years ago by CB90

Response

H.M.S BRAVE BORDERER

Evenin' Rowen, So far so good, nice job👍 Let me go through your comments one by one😉 1) "Moved the battery towards the stern and, at speed, the forefoot lifts slightly clear of the water. The plane is now almost flat. The battery is not well positioned when near the bow." Battery in the bow is almost always bad news🤔 too much weight forward of the CoG or natural balance point when planing. 2) "The 2S battery used was a 4000mAh 30C; suspect this battery does not have the capacity to operate the model. Every motor will run up smoothly until a second one is operated. The first motor then “stutters” and a fuse might blow, this could be indicative of a power surge. Any comments from the electronic experts among the group would be appreciated." First the battery: you may be right. Especially with 3 x4500 kV motors Since you are using 3 ESCs how about feeding each one from a slightly smaller (lower weight) battery? Precondition of course is that all three are equally charged to the same voltage and capacity AND have the same (or very very similar) internal resistance! Complicates the issue of course and motors with a lower kV rating and one power source may well be the better solution😉 Second the 'stutter': How and when did you switch in the second motor? If the first was still at 'Full Ahead', i.e. 'Pedal to the metal!, I might expect the battery voltage to dip and then recover with the sudden additional load and a sharp rise in total current drawn. But no particular excuse for a sudden current rise in the first motor ! Where was the fuse that blew? I suspect in the primary supply lead from the single battery🤓 since with brushless motors you can't fit individual fuse in their supply leads like you can with a brushed motor. BUT you can to the ESCs feeding them!!! You can't get a power surge from a battery, not like a surge on the mains network due to lightning etc! But you can get a voltage dip and recovery if you suddenly present it with an additional load😲 3) "The 3S battery was 10,500mAh and 40C; with this battery all three motors can be run at full speed together and fuses do not blow. it was also very heavy at 1700g, holding the model down." All run up together to full speed or 'switched in' as described above? There's a big difference between a gradual increasing of load on a power source and a sudden step increase! 4) "The motors are 4500 kV. On refection, think a slower motor around, perhaps 2000 kV would have been a better choice." I did think at the outset that 3 x 4500kV was perhaps a little ambitious😲 2000 - 2500 sounds much better, and more controllable👍 Then you could also get good performance results with a single battery of capacity lower and weight 👍 The function of the third (centre) motor for 'action speed' would also be more pronounced👍 5) "Would concur with comments by others that a simple single or two bladed propeller layout for this model is probably best - that is unless you want to capture the true scale layout. The centre propeller seems to have little effect on overall performance, (see above re 4500kV motors- Doug😉) although it will power the model quite nicely when operating by itself. Have had several suggestions about how best to use the centre propeller. Will think about them and decide later how to do this when I start to finish the model." As a 'Scale Purist' (as far as my skills and tools allow!) personally I would frown on the use of 2 blade props, much less only a single prop. Do that in a fictitious power boat if you will, but for 'Brave Borderer' ? 😡 Do her justice please😉 Many three screw (😲) boats (including the full size originals of this era) only used the third motor for additional manoeuvring speed in action situations. My personal experience of FACs (Fast Attack Craft) and FPBs (Fast Patrol Boats) over the last three decades shows me that the three screw configuration has been largely dropped, especially since the introduction of much more powerful engines such as improved diesels and gas turbines. Many use a combination of diesel, for cruising, and gas turbine for 'action speed', so called CODAG, COmbined Diesel And Gas turbine. 6) "The 2 blade Hi – speed propellers both increased performance and current draw. The model is more than fast enough with the original scale layout." As I believe the 2 blade props were of larger diameter (and perhaps also of larger pitch) than the 3 bladers the higher current draw is a logical conclusion! Stick with the scale config! 👍👍👍 7) "Will purchase a lighter, 3 S battery as that seems the best choice for performance and weight." 👍 but don't overdo it to the other extreme by reducing weight and therefore capacity too much😲 You want a decent sailing time don't you? 8) "Testing using the bare hull with a minimum of detail worked well. For a models with a complex power train, this is a good approach as access to the internals can be gained easily. Nothing worse that finishing a boat carefully just to find the performance disappointing. Then having to to rip it apart to make major modifications or adjustments!" Heartily agree 👍👍👍 Bon chance mon ami😊

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

Help Needed new Builder Billings St Canute

Yikes Frodo, I have just measured my plank lengths and indeed they are shorter than the hull approx. 90-100cm!! Considering two kits are identical this must be the intention of billing boats. Has anyone got and advice on this? I was thinking that it might be best to split the plank in half, glue the bow and stern ends first, then glue a plank section in the middle area? "We could do with some help here chaps". Another thing Frodo, do not try and fit the M500 motor I have!! (please see photos), stick with the M400 its smaller. As you can see in the photos my battery will not fit....GULP. Does anyone know if there is a smaller battery out there? The one I have is a 4405385 (Cornwall model boats P/N) 7.2V 3300 H. One other thing Frodo "DO NOT" fit the metal rudder post & item 16, if you do you will not get your inner prop shaft into the tube. The only way to do this would be to remove the motor. Probably best to leave the rudder & item 16 until you have fitted the motor & battery. Also I am finding the space in the hull is very limited for radio control, choose your equipment wisely. I am now thinking I must ditch the M500 motor for the M400 and then look at alternative battery size. After building the Boulogne-Etaples this St Canute kit is extremely challenging. Anyone out there with some suggestions would be a great help....kind of sinking here a bit (a few photos attached) Frodo if you have any further questions please let us know. Cheers Richard.

6 years ago by Richard7

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

Hi Graham If we are talking about the Graupner Brushless Speed ​​500 ECO no 7295 https://www.graupner.de/Brushless-Speed-500-ECO/7295/ then yes the Kv is 500 which equates to 7500 at 14.8v. it's 50mm x 80mm with a 6mm shaft so really a heavy duty motor and in a Aeronaut Queen 36" still much too big and powerful. You really need to resolve the drive train and shaft problems and this will be easier if you choose a motor of smaller diameter and power. A 36xx or very similar size motor at about 1000Kv or less (500Kv with 14.7v) will be ample. The prop should be less diameter than the motor. There are many examples of 36" model boats on this site and I do believe the majority of our members have used similar set ups, to those we have suggested, in their models with a large degree of success. It could be we are talking about a different motor as you refer to " the small outrunner motor". if so please post a link to a pic of the motor.

6 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

Graham, I have attached the same table that Doug sent me. This has the relevant information you seek. According to the table attached the Graupner 500 kV ECO has a specified output of 1440 watts and 80Amps. Strangely the 400 kV ECO has a specified output of 2010 Watts. So the 1440Watt output is questionable and may be a typo based on the other entries in the table. more likely to be 2440Watts In any case you need a 5mm diameter propeller shaft. For shaft alignment i use a brass tube that slides snugly on the propeller shaft and then on the motor shaft. When the tube rotates/slides well on both then the shafts are aligned. I then fit the motor mounts, check and tweak the alignment if necessary, remove the tube and replace with a universal coupling. if the motor or propeller shafts are a different diameter then I insert the relevant size smaller tube inside the larger of the tubes. This method is simple and has served me well, including for larger IC engine powered boats belonging to friends. Haig

6 years ago by reilly4

Forum

Too Powerful Brushless ?

I always use as smaller rudder as I can get away with. I had been running model boats for many years then one day when on Blackheath pond someone was watching my boat and remarked on how it turned. badly, and I replied that's how it had always turned. The guy had a boat the same as mine it was a MFA Spearfish, He asked if he could swap rudders on my boat and try his on my boat so that's what I done and it performed much better on the water. I then tried it on my Vosper RAF Crash Tender and it just stuck to the water on any turn tight or wide. So I have done this ever since. On my Huntsman I had turned it over several times before trying this so I done the same on this and once again it was a lot better turning and didn't turn over. I don't like using large rudders if I cannot get one small enough for what I wan't I will get one and then cut it down. We used to race 5 or 6 boats on the water at a time and always needed to turn tight turns to get round the pond. Even watching Power Boat racing on the telly in the past they make tight turns to get round. I have a Probaot Miss Geico tunnel hull and straight from the box brand new the rudder on that has no leading edge and I can turn that flat out on the water with no roll at all. I suppose I am a speed freak and it has worked fine for me. Even if it is the wrong thing to do. The small avatar picture on my posts is a boat I have in Norfolk. This has a 1960 Volvo Penta outdrive probably one of the earliest one's made and that doesn't like to turn on 3/4 throttle without the engine revs dropping and digging in on a turn. I have tried this when out on open water up there. Don't try it now as got a warning from the Norfolk River Constabulary. Don't want to loose my river licence.

6 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Airboat - one rudder?

From what I have seen of Airboats (including several in Florida many moons ago 🤔) two rudders are predominant. Offset Twin rudders seem to be smaller, not so long front to back and single rudders huge and seem to have been used only on very early versions of airboats. Must be a reason why they evolved to slimmer twin rudders. My guess is better response with less braking effect and consequent loss of speed in turns and / or less effect from cross-winds. Whatever, have fun with it, but watch out for the alligators 😲😉 Cheers Doug 😎 PS can highly recommend a visit to an alligator farm 😲😲

6 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

motors

No, that's less powerful than in Pilot's opening post and like his suggestion is an inrunner motor. The consensus is that a 50 mm diameter outrunner ( the first part of the model No.) is what is required for a big boat like the Huntsman. The second part of the No. is the length of the motor. That size plus a kv figure of around 700 to 1000 will provide plenty of torque to get it moving and high enough revs to get it on the plane. Once you start getting a kv figure well over 1000 you start to get into higher revs which is useful for smaller batteries (e.g. 1000kv x 7.4v = 7400 rpm) which as said is good for fairly small, light, sports and race type boats. Conversely if you have quite a big displacement boat then you want quite a big motor but with a low kv figure as you don't generally want to tear along but want torque! Chris

6 years ago by ChrisF

Forum

Motor problem

Fair enough pmdevlin I accept what you are saying, however it started as a motor not being big enough for the size of the propeller and then went on further as the shaft was 4BA not 4mm and I could not locate a smaller prop, a plain brass tube and stainless shaft has been fitted,way back in the 60's when it was first started and as I knew nothing about boats in 2015 when I finished the basic structure, I did not know that it would have been the smart thing to fit a shaft with bearings. So this is the way I am going to go, I have ordered the 850 brush motor and the adapter to fit the motor shaft to my red coupling,this I have been assured will be more than big enough to drive the prop without getting hot or needing a water jacket, if this is the case when I fit it and sail it, then result, if not I will then have to go down the path that you suggest, I have nothing to lose trying the larger motor and everything to gain if it works. By the way the batteries are all new

7 years ago by RichardSReade

Forum

Motor problem

before you fit a water cooling system try a smaller prop. You need to think of the gearbox in a car. Too big a prop can be looked at as being like trying to drive off in top gear! A smaller prop will allow any given motor to spin faster and strange as it may seem use LESS not more current. if you keep the drawn current down to the limits set by the motor constructor then its probable you will need no extra cooling. if the boat moves faster than you want use the throttle its what its for. Throttling down also extends battery life. The air intakes on boats like this were intended for IC engines and they NEED air to work.

7 years ago by Haverlock

Forum

Motor problem

Hi Richard, with a bigger motor and smaller prop you may not need the water cooling, none of my boats have cooling, what i would say is that switching to a gel battery will be heavy, stick with your 7.2v batteries and give it a try, it might last a bit longer but with your twin battery set up you will get about the same run time. Mark

7 years ago by jarvo

Forum

a very noisy fireboat

its early on with this project, I was going to wait until its completed, but not sure when that will be, so Ill give you a sneak peak. I've been using a sound system in one of my model planes, and over time have become friendly with the guy who makes them, helping him with various things. I got thinking about the 4 foot fireboat I have, and how cool it would be to have a sound unit. So, to cut a long story short, I knew he had a plane sound with twin Merlin's for a bomber, and I use a merlin for my P51 Mustang model. After a serious amount of pestering, I got him to modify one of the 5 stock sounds on his Boat sound unit, using the twin Merlin sound from the planes. It took some work, getting rid of the propeller sound on the start up and shut down sequence. I ran it for the first time last night, but forgot to take spare batteries, and a small screwdriver to adjust the settings, so couldnt change the settings, in particular, the volume was set way too loud, losing some of the clarity of sound. This is pretty close to the real engines, which where v8 meteor, this sound is an actual recording of the v12 Merlin, its doubled up, and staggered, so you can hear the two engines running. It has start up and shut down sequence, it isn't clever enough to read reverse unfortunately. Its a speakerless system, using transducers instead of speakers, which are much louder, smaller and lighter. They rely on vibrations, they are epoxied to the hull, and the whole boat becomes the speaker! Its the first time I've done this, and its pretty new on the market for boats, planes have been going for a few years. I've realised that whilst I put them above the waterline, I didn't account for the roll of the hull, when one (there is one on either side) goes below the waterline it muffles the vibrations, and causes a funny sort of gurgling noise, ah well, like I say, its early days! Still a bit of tweaking to do, but you get the idea. Stock sounds are Turbo cat diesel, Johnson outboard, evenrude outboard, mercule v8, steam. They also have aux sounds, such as ships bell, steam whistle, horn, seagulls etc. I think on my system the Johnson is dropped in lieu of the twin merlin sound. Have a look at www.mrrcsound.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EkJUHe1tR_w

7 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Lindow common.

I sailed on Lindow Common from 1963 until about 1967/8. Most Saturdays there was a guy there with a Gannet powered boat that was similar to a Sea Queen, the radio was huge, about a 12inch cube on the floor with what seemed about an 8foot aerial. I had a sea scout with a super fury, but no radio, just a touch of rudder and let it go,and go it did!! I think the whole lake was lined with timber and it seemed huge but when I called in there a couple of years ago it seemed much smaller than I remember. I to progressed to single channel bang bang steering with a number of boats that were really a bit too quick for this type of basic radio, the first had the transmitter housed in an OXO box and the receiver in a soap box. Happy days

7 years ago by Graham

Forum

what fittings for a plane prop

Hi Sonar My airboat was a plastic hull and top from Mobile Marine. I added my own top details and use a 2228 brushless with a cut down 10" prop. Cheap 30amp Chinese ESC and 11.1v Lipo. This is the larger version there is a smaller version also. I am attaching some pics of mine and a fellow club members model Hope this helps. Drones are a whole new ball game but usually come as a complete ready to fly set. if you are thinking of pics of your boats on the water you will need to spend about £300 to get a good basic but reliable drone. Dave

7 years ago by Dave M

Forum

3 Footer on a very rare outing

"pmdevlin, it's difficult to build heavy if you follow the instructions" Yes it is, its also difficult when you didnt actually build the boat, it was originally built (as prev stated) circa 1962 by my uncle, with IC engine, and a straight running rudder, as he couldnt afford full rc gear back then. Im thinking Martin you have watched the video, and saw that the boats did plane, be it 30 knots or 300 knots, they planed, scale speed or not. I also own a four footer which handles beautifully, and is capable of well over scale speed, but speed is only relative to the position of the throttle stick, we all build to our own required specifications, and our own take on the original, with some modellers license😊 I would rather have power in reserve, than not enough power. The problem with my smaller 3 footer is at the time my lack of experience, resulting in a heavy boat, Now I own some fast scale boats, I dont need the performance from the 3 footer, so it can be rebuilt using a lighter motor, lighter power packs, and get rid of some of the unecessary weight to make it sit better in the water, and look better at slower speeds work in progress, as it hardly gets used, its not high on my to do list😡 thanks for the weight Dave, I remember that your 3 footer performs very nice, and is light. Ill weigh mine this week, its buried deep in the man shed, thanks also rob, but its the smaller 3 foot weight I was after👍 Paul

7 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

3 Footer on a very rare outing

They where planning boats Martin, capable of 30 knots, look at this, the front quarter of the boat is out of the water http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URhrnE3T8cs This model was originally built in 1962 and over time has gone through a coupe of refurbs, I made it way too heavy and it sits too low in the water. The brushless motor is too big, hence thinking of just swopping it with a smaller motor as it doesn't need to go as fast as I originally wanted a few years ago. its never handled very well, the spray rails are now worn and pretty ineffective. At slow speeds the weight displacement is all wrong, and its bow heavy, almost ploughing the water, and it takes too much speed to get on the plane, I think she needs a diet, new spray rails, and a rethink on the battery placement. Unfortunately its a boat that very rarely sees the light of day, it would be interesting to know what other peoples boats weigh, without batteries, if anyone knows? thanks

7 years ago by pmdevlin

Forum

Looking for a particular person

Been doing some digging for the user roycv. There are no users on here with that name, but there are members that could possibly be the same person..... tidtug33 Trillium cathol8 Welcome aboard the Model Boats Website too! We're a smaller community than MBM or ModelBoats, but some great knowledgeable people on here 👍 Stephen

7 years ago by fireboat

Response

San Pedro Push Boat

No worries Ed, my truck is big enough to carry my Amsterdam with 2 and the Transmitter box, spare batteries etc, like i said it folds up so very usefull Mark

7 years ago by jarvo

Forum

Sound system

Further to Paul Devlin's post, I've just released a new version of the sound unit I made for him using a smaller, cheaper MP3 module which plays user supplied sound files on a micro SD card and also has an integral 3W amplifier so it will drive an 8 ohm loudspeaker directly. Full details, including a download of the instruction manual on my website http://www.forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php/boats/16-ch-sfx Units are available from www.scalewarship.com

8 years ago by alan bond

Media

my Monster Mersey

My Monster Mersey,couple of photo's from a show in Newark Photo 1 : She is quite big(talus is on a smaller table) Photo 2 : She makes the other boats look quite small Photo 3 : The proud owner of the Monster Mersey is next to the stig in the dark blue top

8 years ago by skegness

Forum

Sealing hull

Hi all in need of a bit of help I'm building a Solent class life boat the hull is all wood I'm using p38 filler what can I use to really tuffing up the hull on my always used sand sealer on them but now not to sure any help would be great full.

8 years ago by Vickers1979

Response

PT109

HI blucher, The PT109 was built from a Dumas Boats plywood kit which is reasonably heavy, very strong and quite rigid. it has a quite shallow prop shaft angle which allows the motor to sit very low in the boat, and it sits just above the keel. There is not much else in terms of weight other than the batteries, and I have experimented to the extent of fitting four smaller batteries connected in parallel, all sitting on the bottom skin of the boat. They can't get any lower and still be inside the boat! The boat still wants to roll..... The Perkasa I built was from a Precedent kit with the plywood hull and it was relatively straightforward and very satisfying to build. it isn't plank on frame thank goodness but just uses plywood and a small amount of balsa. I covered mine with fibreglass cloth. My build blog showing the Perkasa and some pictures of the PT109 frames is on this website, and if you go to this link it will take you there directly: http://model-boats.com/builds/view/13599?goto=13635 The Perkasa is a BIG heavy boat and if you want some speed out of it then you need a lot of power. I have used a single Turnigy 4084 - 620KV brushless motor which gives a very high speed without the complication of two motors/controllers/props etc. At speed this motor delivers about 1.2kW. if you go to this link on this website: http://model-boats.com/user/lauriem you will see the power setup for this boat. At my club there are four Perkasa's including mine and this motor and battery combination gives the best performance by far - much better than boats with two motors.

8 years ago by Lauriem

Forum

Sail boat

Belairdigital offer a set of laser cut parts for Vic Smeeds "Starlet" which you may find is what your looking for. You can purchase the plans from My Hobby Store, you will also need to supply some strip wood and thin ply for the hull. Nylet can supply a set of sails Traplet offer a plan and wood pack for a smaller version of Starlet called "Star Baby" another design from Vic Smeed. Again Nylet can supply the sails. Belairdigital and Traplet will have stands at the Warwick international Boat Show, so you could check out both models. If you do consider the Starlet is the yacht for you, I do have a copy of Model Allied Publications booklet called "Simple Model Yachts" which covers the complete building instructions for Starlet. Which first appeared in Model Boats over several months in the Mid Seventys? Bear in mind the sails provide the power, so a set of ready made sails from a professional sail maker is to be recommended. I hope the above is of use Roger - Fullsteamahead

9 years ago by Fullsteamahead

Forum

Blowing fuses

Georgio I made most of my fittings hence some of the delay. The stanchions are 1/8" brass tube from B&Q. I made a jig to keep the distance the same and ensure the holes were central. The railing I bought from SHG at one of the model shows but they are on-line as are other suppliers. I soft soldered the angled supports. The window frames are from plasticard cut slightly smaller than the windows so that I could fit the acrylic windows in the wooden window frames. The props are from Prop- Shop, I asked Simon at a show, told him the model and type of motor and he was spot on with his advice. Not cheap but very efficient and look correct. I made the anchors from brass cut shaped and the tangs soft soldered. You can find examples of the real ones on the web to help with construction. I made mine about the same size as the wooden anchoe supplied in the kit. Aerials are from brass tube and rod. I used the wooden sampson posts fore and aft. The deck fittings are plastic sourced from one of the model shows The scale is 1:12 so you should have no problem finding suppliers. Cornwall model Boats have a good assortment in their on-line store but e-bay has many suppliers. When you get my pics you will see lots of the detail. Please ask if anything is unclear. Cheers Dave

9 years ago by Dave M

Response

On the water

I built a Sea Scout several years ago and also overcame the rudder servo matter by mounting the servo on its side. With a bit of work I managed to conceal it beneath the floor of the aft cockpit. I used some lead weight to ballast the boat after testing it in the bath and kept it slightly stern heavy which in turn helped it to raise the bow when on full power. Motor was a 550 running on 7.2 volt nicad and performance was very pleasing.. I love the images of your Sea Scout and it shows what can be done with hard work and dedication. Its also really great to see the smaller Aerokits models being restored as most restos seem to focus on the larger boats in the range. Regards Boaty 😊

9 years ago by boaty

Response

RAF Crash Tender

HI Squirtgun, up to no she still hasn't changed, and is still unfinished. I did take her out and try her on Clapham Common Long Pond, a bit of a disaster ☺️ , the prop that was on her was a 4 blade 40 mm, was a bit to big and would not steer and tended to react to the torque and pull one way 😭 . I have since purchased three smaller prop's 20,25 and 30 mm 3 bladed brass props. will have to experiment with these at some point. Sadly what with work and trying to get some work done on a classic car I have, I haven't had chance to do anymore 😭 . Haven't retired as yet, that date isn't until August, but as the law has changed, you do not actually retire anymore I'm told from work, you either work on until you decide or you just resign now. So I will get some more done soon but have just been to busy on the classic car. Thanks for asking and when done more I will post it. Kind regards Tom (alias BOATSHED )

9 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

Fast launches and scale speed matters

😊 😊 Fast Launches etc and scale speed matters. We model boaters are In a different situation ref scale speed matters as opposed to the likes of railway and car buffs. Typical example being that a 1/32nd scale slot car can travel at 5 mph which gives It a scale speed of 160 mph. However when It comes to a 1/32nd scale MTB or ASRL, 32 knots would mean sailing at a speed of 1 knot. At this speed It Is unlikely the model would plane nor would there be a wake that would replicate Its full size counterpart. I remember an old formula from many years ago which stated that a dynamic scale speed could be calculated. This would take Into account both scale of the model and a realistic appearance on the water. Formula Is to find the square root of the scale and then multiply It by the speed of the full size craft and It Is quite easy to calculate. For our 1/32nd scale launch to appear to be sailing at 32 knots we would need a pocket calculator and steps are as follows= 1 Dived 1 by 32 which equals 0.03125. 2 Press square root button and 0.176766 will appear. 3 Multiply 0.176766 x 32 (this being the speed of full size boat) and the answer will be 5.65 knots. This will be the speed the model needs to sail at to replicate the performance of the full size boat. Using this formula with smaller craft eg 1/72 scale P.T boats etc, 40 knots would be represented by a scale speed of 4.7 knots. When calculating speeds of P.T boats etc, the actual speed of the full size boats was often less than 40 knots as most were war weary with engines and hulls worn out. Film references such as They Were Expendable and P.T 109 are excellent for determining what a P.T boat would perform like. The best sequence Is near the start of They Were Expendable when the Squadron Is under Japanese air attack and the boats disperse under full power In the bay. 😊 The planing angle Is a bit less that I have seen on some models. Book references are Squadron/Signal Publications P.T Boats In Action No 7 and Vosper MTBs In Action no 13 Boaty 😊

9 years ago by boaty

Forum

Colwyn Bay Mayor's Cup Regatta

Hoylake club attended this fantastic event, well supported by the member's and a good show of boats. Ken Web (chairman)won second prize with the Mersey ferry Lily. Weather a bit breezy but no rain and lake a bit rough for the but event enjoyed by all. Thanks to all for organizing the event.

10 years ago by MAXTON

Forum

Voltage Reduction

HI John Just had a quick look at the Power Set Up section on this site to confirm what other are using. 50amp ESC are popular so yours should be OK. With a 600 type motor 3 blade 40/45 mm props are popular. For 540 motors 3 blade 35mm seem to work well. Your 2" prop is 50mm so I suspect this may be your problem. Your motors may well be suitable and the cheapest option would be to buy a selection of smaller props. Looking at Cornwall Model Boats site their plastic prop pitches vary with the size so you probably can't choose the pitch. Prices seem reasonable at about £2. if you are in a model boat club one of your fellow sailors may have a selection of props you can try. At the end of the day the correct prop is the one that pushes your boat realistically round the lake and gets on the plane easily. Ideally you model should start to go on the plane at half throttle and if this isn't the case you may need to add small amounts of lead to the stern or replace anything heavy from the bows. it really is a quite fine balance point you are seeking to achieve but a slight bow up attitude works best. I'm sure you will achieve your aim in time. All part of the fun with model boats. 😀

11 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Classic Sailing Ships

HI All As well as my steam and electric models I enjoy sailing yachts. I'm sure my club site Is not alone In having low water and weed sometime during the year. Result - unable to sail any deep keeled vessels, plus difficulties with weeds In props. I have therefore delved Into pond yachts and find that they are not as affected by the weed, having a smaller shaped keel. My first attempt was a 4ft fiberglass hull that I converted to a gaff rig, based on plans In Model Boats for Monica - Dave Metcalfes Moonbeam Is similar. Proved to be a super vessel but not In strong winds. Planked the deck and made mahogany cabins. Am now building a Chris Brown model of Cariad a Bristol channel pilot cutter from the 1900's. Does anyone else have similar experience and aspirations? Dave

13 years ago by Dave M

Response

Stiletto

I believe this was the smaller version of the Lesro Rapier. I think they are fine looking boats - future classics. Your restoration looks fantastic and it seems to be going well too. My Rapier had it's maiden voyage recently. When I bought the kit from Lesro they told me it was the last one they had! I too like the older style wooden boats. Ian

12 years ago by ianed57

Forum

crash tender

HI Marklincs Looks like the 34" version. is there a prop shaft installed? When you say 6v, are you considering a SLA battery? For the smaller (34") version of this model NiMh of 7.2v and high amp are usually used. Really need a nice fast revving brushed motor to get the model on the plane and you will need a high amp (possibly water cooled) ESC. if cost is not a factor then you could install a brushless motor and ESC powered by LiPo battery. There are certain Important procedures to follow if using LiPo's and a special charger/balancer must be used. For a novice user a brushed motor set up is probably the best option. As this is a relatively small boat it is most Important that you keep the weight as light as possible. The original kits were sold to work with an IC engine and weight was not a factor, but is when you use battery power. I suggest you have a look in the power set up section on this site for 34" Fireboats as there are many combinations that work well. 👍 I also suggest looking in the boat build blogs as many rescued hulls need some repair and sealing to make watertight. 👍 if an IC was used in your model the prop shaft, if present, will possibly have damaged bearings and maybe shaft. This can be repaired or replaced but is best done before you start any other restoration. 😀 Please keep asking the questions as you progress. Restoration can be quite daunting but there are many members on the site who can and will gladly help with their own experiences and methods. Good restoring.

12 years ago by Dave M

Response

stern balsa blocks In place

HI Hydoman Good to see you are sharing your build in a blog. Many years ago I purchased a set of plans for a 70" model the Javelin Class of destroyer. Built a smaller HMS Grenville instead. The drawings are fairly basic but do give some good details of the boats/davits/multiple pom-poms together with mast and deck placements of fittings. if it would help I could get you a photocopy (about A£6). Jecobin is a good source for detailed drawings of most naval armaments if you are looking for super detail. Good luck with the build 😀

12 years ago by Dave M

Media

RAF Crash Tender

HI to all you Fire Boaters, I have decided to finally bring my Fireboat out of the closet and up for inspection. This is the first of my many boats I am showing, I will probably show others in the future. I started to build her back in 2006 after being off work and having a shoulder operation. She was not going to be a R/C boat, just a bit of something to do whilst on recovery. I have a 34" still in the box unmade, purchased back in 1994 from Aerokits. I drew round all the parts and then shrunk them on my scanner. She is 27" long I think that's just fraction over 1/20th scale . She is almost all balsa except the 2 under skins that are balsa laminated with 1/64th ply. The hand rails are 1/4" balsa blocks I cut from a strip and the rail is ally tubing. The mast is made from plastic strip from packets from the model shop. When I returned to work she was put into the shed and left unfinished. I stumbled across the Fireboat website and registered in 2009 when I was off work once again. This then made me think more about working on her again and I decide to turn her into an R/C model. So out she came and I fitted an Electomax Delta 480bb motor and a M3sonik esc. I also purchased a couple of Robbe fire monitors, put them together shortening the nozzles and cutting the bottom of the base of to try to look a bit moreto scale. I know they are not the correct type but if I want to go down the road of getting them working then these ones will. Then off I went to Wilkinson's and bought some paint. Then set out to paint her, as I brushed on the paint it seemed to be drying almost as quick as I was painting her. Dragging the paint I had just put on with next brush stroke. What a TOTAL DISASTER !!. I gave up on her and back into the shed she went. 2010 arrived I started again rubbed the paint down a bit and bought some Tamiya spray acrylic and started spraying, underside red, it seemed look all right. I used a nice new roll of low tack masking tape, taped up the underside and the decking and sprayed on the black on the sides. I thought that look all right. Took off the masking tape, which also took off the red paint and the dope from the decks. Another DISASTER. Back in the shed she went once again. A couple of months went by and I was up in Norfolk on my own boat and watching the workers in the boatyard, ideas came to me and when we returned home, out she came and I repainted the sides and then with red oxide paint I painted her undersides to make it look like antI foul paint. I used some white stripe to cover the join of the two different paint colours. I had bought some roundels in Anglia Model Shop in Gorleston and some lettering in a shop in Norwich and after painting put these on. Not looking fantastic but passable I was a little happier with her, but still not satisfied, back in the shed she went again. Now after so much nagging from my brother out she has come, I've started again. He talked me into changing and trying a brushless motor and a smaller esc he had in his tool box from his helicopter he was shelving as its rota head was damaged beyond repair. I have now fitted them and if they work I will change the esc to a forward/ reverse esc in the future at some point. Sea trials are still away off more than likely in the spring, because the decking has yet to be painted. That will be the next job. I think that's all for now, as I have probably bored you all to tears. I hope update as I progress further. Just to let you know I'm Tom (alias BOATSHED).

12 years ago by BOATSHED

Forum

46'' fire boat

which boat are you building is it a new wooden kit or a fiberglass hull , have you thought of going twin motors, it can seem like more work but may be easier in that you don't have to have one BIG motor but two smaller, and also smaller speed controllers, it is also true to scale as both 93 and 94 boats where twin shafted. Peter

13 years ago by Peter HS93

Forum

Fireboats In service?

HI David Lesro's e-bay listing of the kit gives the following info: "BRIEF HiSTORY OF FULL-SIZE CRAFT Only two Vosper 46 foot RAF Crash Tenders (or firefloat Mk. 2) of this type were produced by Vospers. Firefloat No. 93 was delivered to the RAF Marine Craft Section based at Calshot on Southampton Water in approximately March 1952, it appears to have spent most of its life in storage probably because the Sunderland Flying Boats were being withdrawn from service during this period and its role therefore became redundant. No. 93 was struck off charge in July 1958 and disposed of. No. 94 entered service in about 1952/1953 and was damaged and stored at number 238 Maintenance Unit until July 1958 when it too was struck off charge. it is not known what happened to the two craft after this date. The main power units for the craft were provided by two Meteorite 8-cylinder petrol marine engines of 375 bhp at 2400 rpm, this gave a top speed of 28.4 knots. Fuel consumption at top speed was nearly 48 gallons per hour. A separate smaller Ford V8 engine was used to operate the two foam/water monitors and a smaller JAP engine for the bilge pumps. A crew of five was intended in service, construction was wood, hard chine, plywood frames and double diagonal planking." I assume the crew would be RAF personnel suitable trained in search and rescue, and firefighting. The latter would probably have worn suitable protective clothing similar to their land based colleagues. Dave HI David I have just found a website called Air Sea Rescue and Marine at http://www.asrmcs-club.com/boatswebsite/ This may answer more of your questions. Plenty of good pics as well Dave

13 years ago by Dave M

Forum

Fireboat Funday 2010 - Given Go Ahead!

HI all With regard to the Fireboat Funday, we hope the rustle up some paste tables to put the on but can't guarantee that there will be heavy duty stands to put your boats on. If you've got any stands or tables you wish to bring for your own use then please feel free to do so. Regards, Marie

14 years ago by froggyt996

Forum

Brushless Motors

It used to be the case that "going brushless" was only for high speed models but there are now slow revving brushless motors which are entirely suitable for scale boats. A big bonus is their efficiency, running times are increased. Also they are smaller and lighter, not Important for big tugs but it's useful if you're building a small model. There is no rule of thumb when replacing brushed motors due to the fact that brushless boats are relatively new (we've pinched them from RC planes and helicopters for which they were designed), also the (mainly Far-Eastern) manufacturers have such a variety of styles and ratings, this makes it a case of trial and error unless you know someone who's done all the experimental work already. I like the fact that parameters can be programmed into the speed controllers, very useful. I predict that the new generation of model boat builders will be using brushless motors almost exclusively in the years to come. Take a look at the Giant Cod website for an example of what's available.

14 years ago by andygh