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H.M.S Bulldog

Hi After sorting out the rudders I fitted the rear deck, I then moved on and fitted the for-deck, now we all know about saying measure and measure again then cut, well I did just that and yes I had made the cutout in the for-deck too small by 1/2 an inch in length, I only found this out when I started to make the for-deck housing. I had to do the for-deck housing so the I could work out just were to fit the stack housing as I have no plans for this boat, so all measurement's are taken from all the old deck's and deck housings. All the best👍 Fred

6 years ago by Fred

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Generator

Hello: My Hobby Engine Richardson tugboat is a “premium” model with a factory-installed system. Unfortunately, the instruction manual has no information whatsoever about the system; not a single word. With a lot of generously given advice & help from Doug (RNinMunich) & other Model Boats members, I’m working on upgrading the tug’s lighting system & adding missing details. Unfortunately everything came to a halt last fall because of a fall & surgery to fix me up. So, for the time being I’m doing things that don’t require much finesse for fine work. I’m working on plans for future work as well as disassembled the tug’s deckhouse to access its circuit board. Once I had the deckhouse floor removed, I discovered that the system isn’t a single unit. There’s a blower motor mounted in one location & the component that creates the mounted in another spot. Tubing connects these two parts, then additional tubing exits the generator unit & splits via a tee to each funnel. If anyone reading this post has a Richardson or Southampton “premium” model I would greatly appreciate information about the following: 1. There is a black rubber plug underneath the deckhouse. When the plug is removed I can see that it’s directly below the generator. I noticed that the generator has white foam rubber inside. Is this where fluid is to be placed? If not, then where? 2. Assuming there are different types of fluid available, which one should be used in the tug? 3. How many drops of fluid should be placed in the system? I would appreciate any information about the Richardson or Southampton system specifically & systems in general. I’m not familiar with them at all & I need to learn. Thanks very much, Pete

5 years ago by PittsfieldPete

Forum

New Generators

HI to all, I hope everyone had a good Christmas... I have started a new line of generators here In Australia, At the moment I have 2 sizes available and more on the drawing board. These new units will run on 12 volts and draw about 1 amp using oil based fluid. Two Sizes SG-1 80 x 45 x 50mm outlet 1/2" This unit Is design for the smaller craft or small spaces a neat little unit that performs great runs for 25mins on 1 fill of the tank (25mls) $65.00 SG-2 100 x 65 x 60mm outlet 1/2" Designed for the larger boats with a bigger tank and more powerful fan unit runs for 40min on 1 fill of the tank (35mls) $75.00 Both generators can be connected directly to your power supply or to your motor for control of the fan speed ( Just need to make sure your speed controller can handle the extra power) you can set It up for 1 stack or 2 with 1/2" copper pipe fittings from your local Hardware shop.. Kit Includes : 1 x generator 1 x fluid (100mls) 1 x wire (300mm) 1 x nuts & washers Check out the short clip of the generator SG-1 at youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3vpE0-ovlA or on my website www.modelboatsandfittings.com email: *Removed, PM Only - Admin*

13 years ago by shane

Response

Re: NON SMOKING EXHAUST WITH AIR INJECTION

Hi JB, I have caught up now and by reading through the posts to see your journey. I have been on a similar journey - I thought I would share some of my learnings. The electronics in the vape devices may well drive a display, buttons +/- and a display interface etc but the basic electronics for the power to the coil are very simple. The power is "pulsed" to the coil using Pulse Width Modulation - basically in each cycle how much time the power is ON or OFF - very similiar to a domestic dimmer switch. By varying the pulse on/off period (Duty Cycle) I can adjust the power being supplied to the coil The coils do not have a voltage limit (I run my standard coils from a 12v SLA) - they do have power (watts) limit where watts =volts x amps. I am not sure on the spec of you voltage regulator - it may be constant current - so when you drop the voltage to 2.x volts your are essentially dropping the overall watts in the circuit. The resistance of most coils is single or sub ohm so are almost a short circuit - no surprise your voltage regulator gets very hot/spits it's fury I create my pulsed power to the coil using a MOSFET I also have a temperature sensor in place to auto shut things down if needed and will be a able to remotely monitor each of the 9 devices remotely Hope this adds to the subject _._

4 years ago by G6SWJ

Response

Re: NON SMOKING EXHAUST WITH AIR INJECTION

I've tried the large water pump I had in the HSL (swapped for a smaller one as it was heavy and overkill) and it worked quite well as an air pump (see vid - latest r model Y hooked to exhausts test) Problem is with these diaphragm pumps, is that the stroke is very short and they have to run fast to get any decent pressure. As mentioned previously I have some 12v 3D ceramic printer elements coming so it will be interesting to see how they work. I've also ordered 2 of the vape pens you mentioned to try $5.76 for 2 so it won't break the bank (thanks for making me spend money Martin!😂) lucky I don't or drink (or vape), although I might as well with all the glycerin I've been breathing lately! I think those tanks are what Graham used with the addition of a bigger tank, and they worked well. It's off to the hammock for me, so, afternoon from me (3.42AM here) must have me beauty sleep😂 JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: NON SMOKING EXHAUST WITH AIR INJECTION

Thanks for the info Martin, looks interesting. Might have a look on Ali Express and see what's available. I did manage to get the 'model Y' working in the HSL with the twin pump set-up but the problem was the same as before, with the exhausts on the waterline. If the boat was dead still and level it worked fine, but the moment either exhaust went under water it stopped working and the just came out the opposite side. I hadn't fitted it properly and had wires and bits everywhere and all the stuff necessary would not have fitted anyhow. You need an air pump, voltage reg, r and water pump, plus all the hoses, so it's a lot of bits to fit into a space that's 2"W x 4"L x 2"H. Basically, to make it work as it is, I'd need the twin pumps (to keep the tubes clear (as in this vid), plus the water pump, plus a r, plus a r air pump, plus all the plumbing ( see drawing) It might not be a problem if it didn't have twin sound units and all the other bits and pieces, plus the drop floor in the wheel house which takes up heaps of space (not to mention 2x 2s LiPos, 1 3s LiPo and a 3v dry cell pack for lights/small air pumps. I might just leave well enough alone for now and have a look at your suggestion for the ST, which although not having much room under the cockpit floor, might have space for a small unit like that. Had another idea along similar lines, using ready wound coils on a base, packed with cotton and slid into a small alloy tube with end caps. They would be small and very basic and you can buy coil selections with various ohm ratings. I found the new coils I bought (50-85w are way too grunty and suck 3,7A at 2.46V - 41w (good ), but the first one I tried in the alloy box (40-80w) was only1.6A at 2.46v - 18.9w (good ) so there is a lot of experimenting that could be done for the best coil type. We have now (1 DEC) have had 15% GST (grab and snatch tax) put on all online O/Seas purchases, - incl freight (this labour govt is giving money away flat out so they have to steal it off us somewhere else) so this is going to add a big cost to R/C modelers here. Prices round the country are going to go up on every NZ online store as well. All because of entitled shop owners whining because they can't rip as many people off as before, - seem to think it's their right not to have any competition, - supposed to be a free market economy!?? (funny the govt is not targeting their online purchases, - only private sales ) If these useless t..ts get back in next time I might consider becoming Australian!!😠😠😠😠 My favourite $2 shops will probably be $3 shops now!. All that means I'll be buying less online now (batteries will now be an arm and 2 legs now) so I'm glad I bought all my expensive bits (TXs etc) years ago! JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: NON SMOKING EXHAUST WITH AIR INJECTION

Hi Jb, Ref:Gave up trying to fit a device in the HSL due to lack of room. Have you thought about using a small tank like this (see photo 1) There is also a small tank that is called a Drip Tank. It is a three part tank, the base is a small tank that holds a small amount of liquid, the middle section has the wick and coil, and the top section slides over the coil section. You fill the bottom tank with a very small amount of liquid and fit together then drip the liquid on to the coil, then slide the top section on and that is it. The air is sucked it through two small holes in the top section across the coil then out through the top/ I am sure that you can make an inline tank system that will fit in you'r HSL. Martin555.

4 years ago by Martin555

Media

NON SMOKING EXHAUST WITH AIR INJECTION

Gave up trying to fit a device in the HSL due to lack of room so decided to try something else. Set up the twin small air pumps (1 per exit) and made some y joints to link them to the pump and exhaust outlets,. Works reasonably well and not too noisy. Breaks up the flow a bit and gives it an 'exhaust flow look'. JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

LATEST R EXPERIMENTS, REDUCING SIZE & NEW BITS

(This is an update to the original post.) This is the model Y r and is a lot smaller than The model X. I was just setting it up to take a vid when the voltage regulator spat the dummy ( think it blew a power reg) causing the full 12v from the batt to go straight through to the r control and causing bad to leak from the 3.7V electrics. Up to that point it had been working perfectly, with the air pump (ex HSL large water/air pump) being varied to reduce or increase . The battery V was set to 3.5V using one regulator (fizzer) and the pump on another battery and regulator for the test. I was also using the vape module regulator as a safety for the coil (which in the event did work) The main regulators I'm using are supposed to handle 5A (probably Chinese Amps - like their shoe sizes😁) but I think I'll have to go up more in amps for the next one I buy. I've had no trouble with these on pumps etc but they obviously don't like more than 2-3A. I've removed the vape electrics and its now wired straight to the back plate and center pin, working well again using another regulator (might buy them by the gross). There are 2 exhausts and a filler pipe on top, and the air inlet in the end of this version, and the pics show the components in order. A small piece of 6mm f/glass heat tube sits in the end of the element and mates with the brass air tube so the air is directed into the element. Pic of it running is at 2.5V and th 12V pump running on about 4V. Feet are just more pipe material, heated, bent and glued on with pipe solvent. The cotton wool wick is packed around the element and blocks any stray air from the pump escaping past the element to the exhaust. All the main UPVC tube sections are a push fit and are not glued so as to make servicing easy. It doesn't seem to leak (yet) as the end caps are a good tight fit. A small foil tray might be needed inside the model to catch any spills etc. A cap will be made for the filler as some escapes from it as it is. Pipes are std 31mm UPVC plumbing but you can use any size you desire and if necessary this can be stood up and the air pipe run through the side (like the exhausts)rather than the end. Wherever the brass 5mm pipes are fitted, I've used some extra pipe material to double the thickness and thin cyano'd the pipes in, (making them a tight press fit when drilling). And she's now racing metallic blue as well. Hope to do the vid tomorrow, Happy smaping. JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER, CHANGE OF ESCs

Haven't found a programmer yet Peter but that's not to say there isn't one, although they work perfectly for what they are designed for. I bought some small 30A brushless ESCs a while back and when I asked the seller if there was a card for them he told me they didn't make one . With a bit of detective work I found a card under a different brand name which works fine. Pic is of OCDAY branded ESC and unknown card which works. How I found it was through an ad on Banggood, which showed the same ESC in a different colour and brand but with a card, so I found the same card elsewhere by itself and took a gamble and bought one, and it worked! Fans aren't too much of a problem as I use quite large main batteries (and they only draw about .02A) so the 2200MAh batteries don't even notice them (probably don't even need the fans, just something I put on 'cos I could'). New ESCs are 60A so they are not going to worry about a 2.5-3A motor draw max. Did think about water cooling but the extra pipe work wouldn't fit without a lot of reworking space, and it's a plumbers' nightmare already. I'll probably use the cheapos in the Maiami which I was thinking of converting to twins and giving the balsa hull a bit of fairing and maybe glassing. Really have to get rid of some planes to make room for any new projects, and finish re-doing the Graupner Optimist, and jazzing up the Fairacre launch a bit. Enough there to keep me busy for next winter. Will just be working on the devices on and off for now, as I'd like to get a compact version going well. JB

4 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: Model boat's push tug

Thanks Marky👍 I have a digital subscription and have received the December issue but not the Special 🤔 Cheers, Doug 😎 BTW: In the December issue there's an excellent article about a generator, and 'puffing' mechanism, for simulating gun fire from the main battery of the battleship HMS Iron Duke. An impressive 48" model. Worth a read👍

4 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LATEST R, E-CIG ELEMENT

That one turned out quite well Martin. I was on the lookout for some sort of can to put the tank in and was prowling round our local Bunnings home depot/hardware store and was in the plumbing section when I suddenly had an epiphany. Remembered I had 40mm waste pipe at home so I bought 2 end caps and a bit of sanding drilling and fitting later, voila' version X. not that small but plenty small enough to go in most boats and very easy to make. There is a turn of loose wire inside so I can lift the tank up to fill it. Strange that it would not work as planned with a bottom air feed, and had to work in reverse. Not to worry, it makes houseloads of , is self contained and easy to fill, (end caps are just a push fit and the top holds the tank in place by the mouth piece) which is pretty much what I was after. I know we can use the vape coils now and I'm sure I can make a small version with just a coil (same idea as the alloy one, - just need to make or find a smaller can) not too worried at the moment as I think I have enough devices for now. Be interesting now Myself and Graham have kicked it off, to see what the rest of the crew come up with (I think there are a few under way at the moment). I'm sure no one is going to pay silly prices for the commercial rs now! (which are pretty much what we have done but in a colorful tin) when you can do it yourself. Seen a few vids on You Tube of people making their own by winding coils on f/glass rope (stove door seals). They work ok but more effort to make. Ready made coils are so cheap (wound coils and replacement screw ins) that it's not worth mucking around. You can buy boxes of various wound coils very cheaply if you make something to use those in. Endless fun. Thank-you E-Cigs!😊 JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

LATEST R, E-CIG ELEMENT

This is the Model X r just created at R&D. It uses the previously mentioned (below) vape tank now fitted inside a highly technical chamber (waste pipe and stop ends). The previous drawing I did showing this method has now been revised, and airflow input position changed from bottom to top, as the bottom input forced the fluid through the wick for some reason and flooded the coil. Should have worked theoretically as it should have mimicked sucking on the mouthpiece but theory ain't fact so hence the change. Works really well now and if you blow on the tube gently, you can fill the room with in real quick time, (lungs are now well lubricated😊) Could have gone for a smaller tube but I wanted to have an air gap, as the vape tank gets hot on 2.5V after a while (too hot to hold). Might make a tinfoil shield/heatsink around it as well. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Media

MACHINE MODEL X- NEW! FROM R&D (SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT !?)

This is the top of the line, premium, top grade, no expense spared, gold standard, fully reverse flowed liquid converter. Assembled by skilled Latvian craftsmen using quality hammers and pick axes, and working in the most modern up to date farm sheds. We at R&D, present the r Model X - "A r for the discerning modeler" (said Botswana Model Monthly) JB, Head Sherang, R&D.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

TRIAL FITTING UNIT TO THE HSL

RE -Had mine out on the lake today, one of the other boaters saw the and thought it was on fire 😁 That would have been amusing Graham, they might have thought it was a LiPo fire which is quite common these days! If it had been, being a fire boat you could have cooled things down a bit (a foam system would be interesting) 😊 although unfortunately, nothing puts LiPo fires out ☹️, maybe throwing them in a bucket of salt water ,- (best way to discharge old LiPos) Any positive comments on the r? JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: MORE R STUFF 2

Re Will it have Torpedo tubes LOL!! As Homer Simpson says "maaaybe"😂 If I build anything else it will have to be 40" (36 is too small to fit much in. The HSL (36") has 2 sound units, 2 brushless in-runners, 2 ESCs, 2 remote switches, water pump 3x 2s LiPos, a separate 3v dry cell pack for lights and now a r,- it's fully loaded, - lucky it still floats !!😀😮 JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: Exhaust r

Re- following several weeks experimenting, I was going to ask what pump you had Graham but you have answered it here. Seems to work quite well, not sure how mine will go (if they ever arrive) but there are a number of air pumps on line to try. Need something with a bit of grunt to it. I think this little project has been a great example of Kiwi/Anglo cooperation as we have both swapped ideas back and forth to get this result. Graham has refined the electronics and done a great job and I'm pleased that he has taken an interest in my original simple idea, and with his electronics knowledge made it pretty flash. With the greater model boat interest in the UK, I'm sure it will be seen on more models yet and is a device which can be easily adapted to any model - tugs, PT boats, barges etc, - with or without water. The best thing is it can be made very cheaply as against the price of current marine machines. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

Exhaust r

Following several weeks experimenting, and lots of discussion with jbkiwi, the exhaust r is now installed in the Crash Tender. The heart of the device is an e-cig tank and coil. This was adapted with an acrylic end piece to allow connection of power and air. The 2ml capacity of the e-cig is a bit limiting so an expansion tank made from acrylic tube was added to give a fluid capacity of around 10ml. The r fluid is 75% vegetable glycerine. The coil in the e-cig is designed to work from a single cell LiPo battery. A power converter drops the voltage from the boat's 2S battery down to 3.5V with a claimed efficiency of 98%. This voltage is adjustable which allows control of the amount of produced. Forced air is provided by a small diaphragm pump salvaged from a defunct blood pressure monitor. This pushes air through the e-cig. The resulting is fed into the cooling water line between the ESC and the exhaust ports. As the r is most effective simulating the engine 'ticking over' a water pump is used to create some water flow when the main propulsion motor isn't running. This adds more realism to the effect. An electronic controller based on PIC microchips connects to the throttle channel and pulses the air pump at a rate determined by the throttle setting. It also runs the water pump at a slow speed, and controls the power to the generator coil. If the throttle is held at maximum for a couple of seconds, the r pumps and coil are switched off to save on battery consumption. With the throttle at idle, a quick blip forward on the throttle will start the r again. Power consumption is around 0.7A on a 2S LiPo. The two pumps are mounted below the footwell floor and the generator is fixed to the bulkhead at the rear of the engine room. My thanks go to jbkiwi for his encouragement and suggestions during the development of this feature. Graham93

5 years ago by Graham93

Response

Re: r test 8 E-Cig version

Are you thinking of filling your collection with devices now Collin?😊 JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Response

Re: Gun, Decks and Capping Strips

Yep that makes sense Steve, but I still wouldn't do it that way with that wire! It'll most likely kink while you're trying to fix the stanchions and the remainder are flopping about the shop!☹️ Had similar experience using tinned copper wire on my 1/72nd scale H class destroyer😭 Eventually I sequentially fixed and pushed/pulled the wire through stanchion by stanchion rather than waiting until they were all fixed. Periodically I had to stretch the wire between two pairs of pliers to de-kink it, which was a pain in the nether-lands!🤔 Took a while on a 1.35 metre deck 🤔 But I cheated by making the main deck in two sections; midships so I could service batteries, distribution board, ESC, r and stern section to get access to motors, rudder and auxiliary sound and switching modules. B and X gun platforms were a bit tricky too! Apart from 'kinky' railing - so far so good Steve👍 Cheers, Doug 😎 PS and BTW, having gone to all that trouble threading metres of wire round the railings - I used them as the + and - supply rails for bow and mast lights! 😉 3V 'rice grain' bulbs in those days. Will be replaced with LEDs during current refit.

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

LATEST R, E-CIG ELEMENT

Re - I gave up smoking about two or three years ago now Yes you should give it up Martin, there's research I just read the other day (some US university) that reckons there's harmful stuff in it which is as bad as cigs (not to mention the Nicotine they add!)?? Turn your tank into a boat r not a d boat maker😂 Burning Ethylene Glycol, Glycerine Nicotine and 'flavours' can't be good for you, (unless of course your flavours are a liquid form of a certain natural product (referred to sometimes in hippie days as 'old bed socks' ) or you're nipping over the fence to the paddock and collecting the glow in the moonlight 'mushies', nudge nudge wink wink say no more say no more know what I mean😉😉😉😉😂😂 JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Media

r test 8 E-Cig version

This version of a r box uses an E-Cig element in an alloy electronics enclosure.I gave the lid and box a 7mm haircut on the mill to reduce the size, (now 50x50x26, - was 50x50x33) but it could still be 1/2 the width. haven't found a smaller alloy box yet but might come across one, (only really needs to be 35mmx35mmx25mm The element is mounted on a bracket screwed to the bottom of the box (the box being the resevoir and neg) and against the outlet tube, and the pos wire runs through the side (in silicone tube) to the element. The box is packed with cotton wool which is surrounding the element and soaked in fluid (in this case baby oil) but leaving a passage through the center for air flow. I'm waiting for a couple of air pumps to arrive but I've used the old r unit pump again to demo the and pulsing, (makes good rings too)😊 The element is capable of taking 4.5v, but I'm only using 2v for the test and it s quite well. The pump is running on 7v but can be varied from around 3v - 8v. The large tubes are to allow for later exhaust fitting (water or dry stack). Once I get the air pumps I'll be running this one with the water again. I've done this (like Grahams version to be able to easily replace the element as the Heng Long rs, while working ok (but noisy) have non replaceable elements, so if you kill one, it's off to file 13 at the end of the bench😉😁 The pump actually works quite well and if you mount it on sponge rubber it is reasonably quiet and could still be useful in a boat with a bit of interior room.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Blog

Deck Fittings

Have decided rather than the follow the instruction to build each section. I am going to build most of the deck fittings before going further in the build. Some of the instruction are a bit vague and the drawing is not to scale, it will be easier to place items if already assembled. Have also made the small steps for access to superstructure from the deck as the drawing does not show any. Made with some old railing wire and plastic card chequered plate. Saw them on an old photo of the Sir Lancelot which was of the same class. Have fitted generator in funnel and also fitted 2mm studs on base of funnel for better fixing to superstructure. The funnel is made from plastic drain pipe same diameter as the styrene pieces. The loudspeaker box will be fitted in the stern below the wooden slats where the ships boat sits this one is for the steam sound generator. As I didn’t like the printed sheets for fish pond and hatches have made them from strips of walnut and lime wood the same with the trawl boards. Fishpond will also be used as battery cover and front hatch will be the removable cover for the power on/off switch, the superstructure hatch is the cover over the steam whistle loudspeaker which will be fitted in the superstructure.

5 years ago by Elsrickle

Media

Another Exhaust r

Inspired by jbkiwi's experiments on a r, and interested in developing one for my Crash Tender I have built an experimental rig based on using an e-cig for the generator and an air pump. The air pump is driven by an electronic lash-up which pulses the pump at a rate depending on the throttle setting. The video shows two tests, first with the water off, then with it on.

5 years ago by Graham93

Forum

Construction of a r

I know. However my Campbeltown and Hood look pretty good with white so I shall install a 12v r in each of the funnels on Resolve. I will post a video as I get into the build. Steve

5 years ago by cormorant

Forum

Construction of a r

Click on (see all discussions) in the topic forum then go to page 16 and look for generator. I hope this is the one. Or type in the search field ( generator) Martin555.

5 years ago by Martin555

Response

Re: SEAPLANE TENDER TANK TEST 2

Re - that's what I expected would happen, and when that overflows I had already thought of a bilge pump for just those occasions Doug, (have enough pumps 'in stock') but it would be too silly, (I'd have to tow the dinghy with all the xtras!😁) I'd even thought of a co2 cyl (soda siphon type) with a valve setup, (but again the dinghy). Just found some 30mm CF tube (ex helicopter tail boom) which might be good to fit a fan into to bolt to the side of the r box. I'll have a look at the range of pumps on Ebay etc and see if there are any high output linear ones. Pic is off Youtube, guys done the same as me, just more compact with a 25mm fan glued to the side, - only about 1"x 1.5" (I made my fan box with a 30mm fan). Could probably make a custom r to suit, as it's only a tiny resistor sitting on the oily wick. JB

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Marine steam engine wanted

Go for it MH👍 I wouldn't have the guts or necessary skill and knowledge to even consider it! I'd have to use a r and electronics to simulate all the noises! More power to your boiler Mike, keep us informed of progress please. Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Directory

(Working Vessel) Eppleton Hall

Still in the process of building a 32nd scale model of the paddle tug "Eppleton Hall" from scratch, for the most part. (Motor: 540 MFA 919D) (ESC: VIPER Marine 25) (10/10). All electronics have now been installed including 2 motors, 2 ESC's, a small generator, a sound module and speaker, a rudder servo, a distribution panel, all running off a 12V gel cell.

6 years ago by Ishmael

Forum

T.I.D. tug

She is a great model but could do with a generator too

5 years ago by Bryan-the-pirate

Forum

Charity shop find.

Nope, never seen one Colin. Looks like a pretty dangerous piece of kit 💥😮 with only Stop, Low, Medium and High speed settings. As opposed to your Bob's Board which would give smoother control. Could make thruster manoeuvring very tricky, a bit jerky. Maybe you could use the "glowing coils" for a r! 😊 Cheers, Doug 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Forum

T.I.D. tug

For all who asked details of my machine. The case in the 1st photo I got from Maplin some years ago, I have also made some for other people using 3mm plastic card, and that works fine, or just buy a plastic lunch box and use that. You will need to secure the mister/fogger to the bottom of the case with silicon, and thread the leads through the side/top,then make a hole for the funnel, I use two different sizes to make it easier to fit in the boat. Next, a cheap! mini fan, and a 3volt source,you can see the 2x1.5v clip in the second photo, I find this is just right for pushing the steam out. Lastly, a source to change the voltage up from 12volt to 24volt, the working voltage of the mister/fogger. Make sure all seams are covered with silicon, as you can see by mine it doesn't have to be pretty to work, and only I see it! I have put a couple of Ebay links of the items I use, as you can see, it is quite inexpensive......so have a go, joe😁 btw..I use a 12volt 2.1ah, and on a full tank of water,(not full, as it won't work when it's full), I get 20mins steaming.If you need anymore info, just ask😮 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-4A-Boost-Converter-3V-32V-12V-to-5V-35V-24V-Step-Up-Power-Supply-Module/252676342631 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ultrasonic-Mist-Maker-Fogger-Water-Fountain-Atomizer-Air-Humidifier-24V/121548443136

5 years ago by Rookysailor

Response

Re: 40'' Seaplane Tender, new build P

Not sure if I can put much more up front Rob, it balances just in front of the motors now so will probably need a bit of rear ballast. I'll see how it floats before getting too carried away, although still working on the out the exhaust idea (have 3 machines to experiment with.)

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

two part epoxy resin

Alles klar Herr Kommissar! (Nicht schlecht, Nur - 'auf welchen Seite' - Akkusativ! I think!?😉) All and mirrors!😁

5 years ago by RNinMunich

Blog

40'' Seaplane Tender, new build P

Trial fitting all the plumbing for the heat exchanger to make sure coamings will still fit. Small pump behind port motor is the circulation pump and the other is the raw water pump. Also fitted the ESCs and made the battery holders. would have liked the batteries and pumps nearer the stern, but not enough room under the floors. May have to put a few sinkers in the stern to get the WL correct. That can come at the end once everything else is done, (paint etc) Rudder system is also temporarily hooked up and works fine. Will remove and test water system shortly. Using 6mm silicone hose for the raw water pump for better flow. As can be seen, everything tucks away quite nicely out of sight, (was sort of like death by a thousand cuts,- fitted by a thousand slots!) some pretty close fits here and there. could have done without the heat exchanger but I don't do things the easy way. Got to try fitting a machine in somewhere so I can have coming out the exhausts with the water (more tubes, more bits!) and a sound unit! Might be pushing it, but I managed to fit twin units on the HSL and that's a lot narrower. Might be a rack system yet, plenty of room upwards in the cabin. Don't really want to put anything in the wheel house, just wheel, instruments etc.

5 years ago by jbkiwi

Forum

Direction finder aerials /water pumps

Have got some small geared motors spare and can work through my 6 volt reducer in use with the generator. Switched in conjunction with my esc so it runs when the prop runs. Also the same switches to run pump for engine cooling.

5 years ago by Elsrickle

Blog

12 Volt Conversion Completed!

I reinstalled Brooklyn's 12 volt motor. Along with her 12 volt r! Brooklyn's back to smoking the way she should! Not sure why the 12 volt r. s more than the 6 volt r does! But it does! Now this r, I got. s a beautiful brown ! Not a white as rs usually do! The brown I like, I like it alot! The brown , reminds me of live Steam!👍

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

12 Volt Upgrade!

I have acquired a 12 volt r. Now all I have to get is a 12 volt Motor! I really don't like the performance of the 6 volt r. I have in her at this time. It gives off less ! Than the 12 volt rs! Yes, I realize it's a very expensive upgrade. But well worth the cost!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Re: More Fenders Needed!

Thanks Doug, I thought she looked a bit naked! I'll order some more fenders. But for now currently waiting. For a new 12 volt r and new 12 motor! I'm going to use the 6 volt r. And motor on the Douglas Greg build! Eventually I'll get the Brooklyn's Engine room right!🙄

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

funnel mounts and deck hatches

Fitted the "legs" to the wheel house so now at correct height when on the deck. Funnel mounts done (just need to finish the funnels, workout what holes to drill and then mount the funnels to the mounts) so we added 2 hatches to each mount, painted white with brass hinges. the one placed between the Cowl vents is open, the one at the back is closed. as we only had "closed" hatches put a triangle shaped bit of plastic under the "open" hatch to prop open. When dry mounting the Cowl Vents found an issue with the rear vents as they are suppose to be higher than the wheelhouse and the ones i got where not, so found 2 wooden cotton reels the right height and turned then down to the correct width using the pillar drill as a lathe, painted them up and then placed the Cowl vents on those. also painted the "flat" vents chrome and stuck those to the mounts as well. to finish off these all we have to do is fit the breather pipes and ladder to funnels and fix the funnels to the mounts (allowing for the front funnel to have the hole for the generator. Started work on the 2 deck hatches using 1mm plastic sheet. Made the 2 housings up and the planked and varnished them ready for the hatches. found out i had only enough hatches to do 1 housing, so drilled a 7mm hole in the hatch for a 10mm brass porthole, painted white with brass hinges. once dry stuck them on the housing ready to go. (ordered some more hatches to i can complete the other housing lol) one last thing was to start on the wheel box. Found in "The Works" in town a heart shaped box which was almost perfect for a mold for the thin wood that was steamed to shape and then held on the heart to fix the curve in place. next to do is to make up the front and back of the wheel boxes and stick the "curved" wood to that

5 years ago by barryskeates

Forum

Anteo 2 Tug

Hi Havelock, this is my first boat build,been doing rc model aircraft for 60 years,I know all there is about brushless motors and lipos.The kit specified lead acid batteries and I am using a 2_1 mfa motor and gearbox not quite sure what esc I have got. Lot of this was guesswork.The lead acid batteries will complement whatever ballast I need.2x6v in parallel and I can tap of 12 v for lights etc I think.

5 years ago by Dick

Blog

A minor adjustment!

OK, I made a minor adjustment. To the amount of liquid. Used and now it works correctly!👍 So, figuring that out just saved me. About $190.00!😱

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

Back to 12 volt r!

Well, I got back my 6 volt r. I had sent it to be looked at. Just wasn't smoking a lot. But, everything checks out OK! I like the 12 volt r instead! So, I'm ordering another 12 volt r and a 12 volt motor! The 12 volt r tends to more. I figure I'll use the 6 volt r and motor. For my next build. Which will be the Tug Douglas Greg 1/25 scale! See the 6 volt r. s like a diesel throttling up! I'm going to make the Douglas Greg a diesel Tug! Here is the 6 volt r compared to the 12 volt r! 6 volt r: https://youtu.be/hSWIXL0nuZE Versus 12 volt r: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtVIb7IZJiw&t=21s

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Blog

r Update!

Good news the r works! There was nothing wrong with it! So, it's on it's way back. I should receive it in Fridays mail!

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Generator

Hi Pete, 45 years, Wow! Well I'm glad you have some switches. you can use on your project! It wouldn't have been a problem. I would have sent you some switches! I'm glad you have some though! Yes, Harbor Models is a good place to look for model supplies! There's also Cornwall model boat in the UK. They have a good amount of supplies as well! I also know what you mean about your appointments! It always seams as if there not going to end! Nick, is good people and very helpful! Let me know how you make out! Ed

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Generator

Hi Pete, Doesn't it say on the instructions. How long of a run you will have with a fill up? You are right that's why. I put switches on my r and fan! You don't want it smoking indoors! Pete, I have some very small switches. I had purchased! If you'd like I can send you two! I'm not too far from you! And I wouldn't mind sending you. The switches they are small. And would be just right for you model! If you like I can PM you mailing details! Regards, Ed

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Generator

Hi Pete, About RNinMunich (Doug). He was having Computer problems a while back. And was off line for a bit! And is busy as of late! I will email him and tell him you asked about him. And send your Regards! Ed

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Forum

Richardson/Southampton Generator

Morning Pete, I'm so glad you found out where to put smoking liquid. 👍 Especially where to put it! when you have the Tug smoking make a video! We would all like to see her smoking! Now all she needs is her lights! But that's a different project.... PS. When you use the r. Don't let it dry out. You'll burn the coil! Just keep track of it! And have fun!!!😊

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Tug Brooklyn!

Nick, Said not enough ! Send it back for repairs! I personally think the heating element is bad! We shall see ….

5 years ago by figtree7nts

Response

Tug Brooklyn!

Except the r Ed? Looking forward to Nick's answer 😉 Like the whistle👍👍 How about a little steam release to go with it? Servo operated valve to let a little 'steam' out from the r perhaps? (When you get the new one set up😉) Very nice build Ed Hat off 😎

5 years ago by RNinMunich